I own this tool, and have struggled for two days to remove that impossible crap from my camper to replace the roof sealant around a leaking vent fan. I was using a scraper and razor. As soon as you revealed the tool I smacked my forehead. Gonna use it tomorrow. THANK YOU!
I’m own a sign shop and when we need to remove signs we use fishing line and in a sawing motion remove the panel from the wall. Then use the multi tool to clean up the left over sika, just like in your vid, saves tons of time.
I know this has been a year but I have a question. I'm trying to disassemble a bay door on our motor home which is about 2' x 4' and 2" thick. It is framed with an aluminum extrusion which is screwed together and the door itself consist of an outer panel of painted fiberglass or filon, I think), 1 1/2" of Styrofoam, and the inner skin is plastic or maybe vinyl. Near as I can find out, Newmar used Sikaflex to put it together and removing the screws at the corners of the extrusion(frame) basically get me no where. I asked Sika if a heat gun would loosen it and they said maybe but would probably be a gooey mess. The bay doors are in great condition(2003 RV), except for some delamination areas where the adhesive either failed or wasn't applied heavy enough. Trying to take apart to fix these issues. If you have any idea about using heat to make this stuff let go please enlighten me. Thanks, great video.
Hi Matt, do you mind tell about the kind of spatula grinder attachment? I'm trying to remove a sika putty and it looks like it's the right one to work whith, where did you get it? cheers. Juan.
Hey Matt, I know this is off topic but what did you use for your registration stickers on your inflatable? Just the standard ones or did you have to buy special ones? Cheers
Hey mate - I just got regular rego stickers off ebay, but mine were going on the fibreglass console, not the actual inflatable tube. I've seen a few people make a template and spray paint them on - possibly the best way?
I would NOT use this method to remove Sika flex on an RV, you will totally fuck it up and probably crack the fibre glass too. Not to mention that when you want to reseal your RV with Sikflex you need to get even the old residue off before reapplication. On wood maybe but not where you need a totally smooth surface so it seals well on re application. Sorry pal. Not for me.
@@scotttannehill3533 With respect Matt, using your method to remove Sikaflex off hard wood, which you have shown, that is fine because hard wood can be sanded smooth, after the abrasive tool leaves some scratches etc, which it always does. So After sanding the hard wood back to smooth you can reapply Sikaflex to it and it will stick and cure just fine. No problem with that at all. However, being in the motorhome business I can say of course Sikaflex is also used on the fibre glass walls of RVs on the exterior and on the roof. If you try to use a gauging tool as you show, its deffo going to badly scratch the surface, if not crack the glass which will expose the inner foam or the lightweight backing behind the smooth glass. In that case it would be now very difficult to reapply more Sikaflex, as now you are left with an uneven surface possibly leading to future leaks and a bad none smooth appearance as it will not be left with a smooth finish. Yes its a huge problem removing Sikaflex from RV glass outer walls and roofs.. so what is the solution? Its patience and gentleness. Sikaflex rarely dries like set concrete, it will always have some flex left in it, hence its name. It flexes and moves therefore it never ever sets rock hard. Choose a warm day, if not use an electric wall paper blower on lowest setting, and from about 10 inches soften the old glue on about a 2 foot section. Then you brush it with a wet rag soaked with Sika Remover 208 or mineral spirits. You leave it for half an hour. Then you start to shove the Sikaflex from one end edge with a flat spatula that is NOT sharp and you'll see that as you push it you can roll it into a ball, Keep using the blower from a distance if its too hard. Take the ever growing ball of old Sikaflex and keep pushing it into any residue left that the spatula did not remove or pick up. You keep doing this as the ball grows larger, the bigger the better, as you keep using the ball to remove stubborn stuck on Sikaflex you will notice that the residue will stick to the ball and as you pull it away you get an elastic string effect, pull it until it breaks, repeat and repeat as you work your way down the full length of the old Sikaflex. Eventually you are left with basically a smooth original surface. However, when you look close you can still see traces of Sikaflex, that is no problem. Just Reapply with the Sikaflex remover or even white spirit rubbing in straight lines. You will know when its all removed when you cast a light over it, it should be white shiny and free from any blemish. Finish off with A very fine soft buffing machine that you should NOT press hard down upon, just buffing it lightly. You can now use Meguiar's Marine RV 59 Quick Wax Clean & Protect. This just polishes the surface back to a high brilliance (this product can be used to remove that powdering old white effect that is often seen on old RVs) Then after rub down with white spirit as you do not want any wax left on the surface when you reapply more Sikaflex, then it will indeed stick and seal with no residues between the glass and the Glue. Respect. Try it! But on hard wood your suggestion is tops! As wood can be re sanded for a great seal when you re apply Sikaflex. Bye.
Thanks, now I have no issues with removal and can go with my project.
I own this tool, and have struggled for two days to remove that impossible crap from my camper to replace the roof sealant around a leaking vent fan. I was using a scraper and razor. As soon as you revealed the tool I smacked my forehead. Gonna use it tomorrow. THANK YOU!
It work ?
I’m own a sign shop and when we need to remove signs we use fishing line and in a sawing motion remove the panel from the wall. Then use the multi tool to clean up the left over sika, just like in your vid, saves tons of time.
Cool and great tip, but this video could and should be 3 minutes long.
very good. 5200 get soft when it gets very hot which like you said is how this works.
Thanks Michael for your video for it is the solution to a dilemma I have. Fortunately I have the Ryobi multi tool. Cheers
You're welcome! Just doing my part to solve all your DIY dilemmas. Now go out there and conquer those projects with your trusty Ryobi multi tool!
Awsome wish i had this info before my boat hatch removal. Wonder if it would damage acrylic
I know this has been a year but I have a question. I'm trying to disassemble a bay door on our motor home which is about 2' x 4' and 2" thick. It is framed with an aluminum extrusion which is screwed together and the door itself consist of an outer panel of painted fiberglass or filon, I think), 1 1/2" of Styrofoam, and the inner skin is plastic or maybe vinyl. Near as I can find out, Newmar used Sikaflex to put it together and removing the screws at the corners of the extrusion(frame) basically get me no where. I asked Sika if a heat gun would loosen it and they said maybe but would probably be a gooey mess. The bay doors are in great condition(2003 RV), except for some delamination areas where the adhesive either failed or wasn't applied heavy enough. Trying to take apart to fix these issues. If you have any idea about using heat to make this stuff let go please enlighten me. Thanks, great video.
Hi Matt, do you mind tell about the kind of spatula grinder attachment? I'm trying to remove a sika putty and it looks like it's the right one to work whith, where did you get it? cheers. Juan.
Hi mat, thanks for the great video , where did you get that scrapper blade?
Outstanding method! Thanks for your help!
Nice idea 😊
Hey Matt, I know this is off topic but what did you use for your registration stickers on your inflatable? Just the standard ones or did you have to buy special ones? Cheers
Hey mate - I just got regular rego stickers off ebay, but mine were going on the fibreglass console, not the actual inflatable tube. I've seen a few people make a template and spray paint them on - possibly the best way?
@@MattKellyFishing Cheers Matt, I might get myself a template then
@@TheRealMrCods If you're feeling really creative you could even try doing it yourself with masking tape!
@@MattKellyFishing lol nah haha
can 5200 be painted
7:27 Looks nice
Great tip. Thx!
Great for flat surfaces, maybe. But the world is not all flat😂😂😂😂
Useful knowledge, but cut 6 minutes off the front, too much waffle
Thanks for the tip. Maybe try saying literally not so often. Just an idea.
well
I would NOT use this method to remove Sika flex on an RV, you will totally fuck it up and probably crack the fibre glass too. Not to mention that when you want to reseal your RV with Sikflex you need to get even the old residue off before reapplication. On wood maybe but not where you need a totally smooth surface so it seals well on re application. Sorry pal. Not for me.
All complaints, and yet no offer of a better solution?
Heat from hair dryer, heat gun. Petroleum based solvents.🤨🤨🤞
@@scotttannehill3533 With respect Matt, using your method to remove Sikaflex off hard wood, which you have shown, that is fine because hard wood can be sanded smooth, after the abrasive tool leaves some scratches etc, which it always does. So After sanding the hard wood back to smooth you can reapply Sikaflex to it and it will stick and cure just fine. No problem with that at all. However, being in the motorhome business I can say of course Sikaflex is also used on the fibre glass walls of RVs on the exterior and on the roof. If you try to use a gauging tool as you show, its deffo going to badly scratch the surface, if not crack the glass which will expose the inner foam or the lightweight backing behind the smooth glass. In that case it would be now very difficult to reapply more Sikaflex, as now you are left with an uneven surface possibly leading to future leaks and a bad none smooth appearance as it will not be left with a smooth finish. Yes its a huge problem removing Sikaflex from RV glass outer walls and roofs.. so what is the solution? Its patience and gentleness. Sikaflex rarely dries like set concrete, it will always have some flex left in it, hence its name. It flexes and moves therefore it never ever sets rock hard.
Choose a warm day, if not use an electric wall paper blower on lowest setting, and from about 10 inches soften the old glue on about a 2 foot section. Then you brush it with a wet rag soaked with Sika Remover 208 or mineral spirits. You leave it for half an hour. Then you start to shove the Sikaflex from one end edge with a flat spatula that is NOT sharp and you'll see that as you push it you can roll it into a ball, Keep using the blower from a distance if its too hard. Take the ever growing ball of old Sikaflex and keep pushing it into any residue left that the spatula did not remove or pick up. You keep doing this as the ball grows larger, the bigger the better, as you keep using the ball to remove stubborn stuck on Sikaflex you will notice that the residue will stick to the ball and as you pull it away you get an elastic string effect, pull it until it breaks, repeat and repeat as you work your way down the full length of the old Sikaflex. Eventually you are left with basically a smooth original surface. However, when you look close you can still see traces of Sikaflex, that is no problem. Just Reapply with the Sikaflex remover or even white spirit rubbing in straight lines. You will know when its all removed when you cast a light over it, it should be white shiny and free from any blemish. Finish off with A very fine soft buffing machine that you should NOT press hard down upon, just buffing it lightly. You can now use Meguiar's Marine RV 59 Quick Wax Clean & Protect. This just polishes the surface back to a high brilliance (this product can be used to remove that powdering old white effect that is often seen on old RVs) Then after rub down with white spirit as you do not want any wax left on the surface when you reapply more Sikaflex, then it will indeed stick and seal with no residues between the glass and the Glue. Respect. Try it! But on hard wood your suggestion is tops! As wood can be re sanded for a great seal when you re apply Sikaflex. Bye.