Thanks for posting this. Always good to know what you're getting into. Saved me about $800 since the dealership wanted to sell me two new sending units. Bought the two sensors online and the lock ring tool for about $185 total and did it myself. Thanks for the video.
Oh and even with the tool the lock rings are a booger to get back on. Suggest everyone use the longest socket wrench they can fit on there to increase your leverage.
Great piece of information and good shooting too. S-I-L has 2007 Santa Fe and needs Ontario Clean Air to get new tags sticker. Engine light is ON because of sending unit(s), don't know which, so I plan to replace both. Your video paves the path. Thank you
I just completed the removal and re-install of the driver's side unit. Here is a list of my challenges and how I solved them. 1) Remove the trunk box to get access to the 4 hidden seat bolts. Quick and easy since there are only 3 screws holding the trunk box in pace. 2) Take pictures of every step for reference on the re-install. 3) Pry up the teeth a little to easily remove the hold down ring. Then use a long flat blade screw driver and hammer to tap the ring loose, CCW. There are no gas fumes at this point so it doesn't seem to present a fire hazard. Keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case fir the rest. 4) Wires and hoses get in the way. Every electrical connector and gas line needs to be tied back so that it stays out of the way. A few minutes spent here will save lots of frustration later. 5) Wiggle and giggle the fuel pump & sender unit out. It is difficult to do this. Don't use force. HINT: Set up a good fan on the passenger side with the door open to avoid breathing gas fumes while working. I directed the fresh air to carry the fumes out the driver's side where I was working. If you have difficulty with any step, try going at the task from the opposite side; that seemed to help me when I was stuck. 6) Either replace the variable resistor or clean the surface with a pencil eraser to brighten the surface. The little contacts that move might be cleaned but that would require lots more delicate dis-assembly. 7) Guiding the unit back in was a huge challenge. Ultimately, I needed to remove the float arm, partially install the sender assembly and then delicately re-attach the float arm. This required tying off parts to hold them in the proper position and tying off loose parts (temporary) in case they fell into the tank. I was sweating bullets to get this done. 8) The green sealing ring would not flop into the channel for me. Ultimately, I needed to use contact cement to hold it in place when I placed it where it needed to be seated. Ultimately, I used some thin wire at four points to place the ring properly. There is very little finger room so one needs to improvise how to hold, push, pull and secure things. 9) The electrical connectors went on OK but the cover plate was entangled. Reference to earlier snap shots helped guide flipping it over and feeding connections back to where they belonged. 10) I still need to work on the passenger side which should be easier. This is a difficult repair like assembling a Rubic's cube. It is all finesse. If you use force on delicate parts you will wish you had taken it to the dealer for service. I think they charge a lot because this is a tough project. Good luck and try to enjoy the various challenges.
Great video! I am not sure I actually needed a new sensor, took apart my driver side fuel pump to find a dangling grey wire and an exposed bronze contact, the diagram indicated these should be connected, I replaced the float anyways but perhaps this was my major problem? One question, I couldn't get the locking ring to completely lock after putting everything back together, in other words it wouldn't go under the first notch no matter how hard tried, it seemed pretty secure in any case, is it a problem if the ring doesn't make it under that first notch?
Great video. The fuel sending units I ordered have two different part numbers, one for the right side and one for the left. What do you think would happen if you switched the sending units, placed the right one on the left side and the left one on the right side? Could this be the cause for my light coming back on with 2068 code?
Youviewme, you mentioned that the car has two senders. How do i determine which one is defective? Are the senders the same for both sides? Thanks again in advance
How long do u think it took u to replace both sides? To get at those bolts with the extensions I believe the cargo bins can b removed to get at them easier
how difficult was the drivers side with the fuel pump? - we have an 2007 with the same problems. :) How did you get the retaining ring off AND back on? Thanks for doing the video!!!
T Anthony: The Driver's side was the same effort. Just more tubes ans wires. I just used a big screw driver with the end ground flat on a grinder. It does take some effort to start the ring turning. FYI, There is some goopy gasket material holding the plastic cover on.
Since there are two sensors, is it possible that one indicates the level above 1/2 full and the other below 1/2, and if so, which does which? My gage seems to register correctly until the tank gets around the half-full mark, based on the trip mileage after a fill up. Doesn't seem economical to replace both "just because".
+creisme Same with mine. Only replaced drivers side because scan indicated error "Fuel sending unit circuit A". Good so far but probably will need to do the passenger side at some point.
for some of this models you half to pull dab on back bottom of seat the tab might have slipped down where the seat belt come up from pull tab pull seat up remove plastic cover two bolts near rear of suv then the two at the front behind drivers seat take out seat remove carpet pice than foam revers directions to put seat back in .dc.dc.dc.dc 2017
+Pat Smith Hardest part of the job will be taking that ring off without the tool. I did it with a long punch and hammer but it took a lot of hammering.
Save yourself the expense and hassal, just add Sea Foam on a full tank of gas. The sending unit is very sensitive and the least amount of sludge or dirt will interfere with it working properly. Sea Foam cleans it up. It takes about 5-6 days for the engine light to go off and the gage will be working properly again. This is a common problem on all 2006-2009 Santa Fe's.
I just tried this on my 2009 Santa Fe. The gauge does seem to work. But it is erratic. I do not know if it is suppose to start working right away or if in 5 or 6 days it will be working. Fill us in Dave. Thanks!
FilmMakerMedia I tried the sea foam and a tank of gas. It did nothing. I bought the sensors and the tool to remove the big rings off both sides of the tank. A strong mechanic and I did the job. Hint; if you're going to do it yourself, spray those lock rings with WD 40 a day earlier. As you pull on the 1/2" breaker to release the rings, have someone tap the top of the tool with a hammer. I also bought new seals, but the old ones were perfect. Fairly easy to change. The gas line clips release when you push on them. Mine didn't correct the problem. I still had a 2068 code, which is the passenger side. We pulled that back out and it still comes up. It's full of gas and says 1/2 tank. In 2 days it will be at the dealer for a final fix $$$$$$$$$. The seats were easy to remove. 4 bolts on each seat.
Got parts from www.partshyundai.com/. This is Potamkin Hyundai Miami 94430-0W000 FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT $65.02 94460-0W000 FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT $64.99
Part # 94430 is the left (drivers) side, aalso referred to as the main sender. Part # 94460 is the left (passenger) side, also referred to as the sub sender.
Thanks for posting this. Always good to know what you're getting into. Saved me about $800 since the dealership wanted to sell me two new sending units. Bought the two sensors online and the lock ring tool for about $185 total and did it myself. Thanks for the video.
Oh and even with the tool the lock rings are a booger to get back on. Suggest everyone use the longest socket wrench they can fit on there to increase your leverage.
After watching your video, I changed mine with the help of my friend and it was pretty straightforward. Thanks for the video!
Great piece of information and good shooting too. S-I-L has 2007 Santa Fe and needs Ontario Clean Air to get new tags sticker. Engine light is ON because of sending unit(s), don't know which, so I plan to replace both. Your video paves the path. Thank you
I just completed the removal and re-install of the driver's side unit. Here is a list of my challenges and how I solved them.
1) Remove the trunk box to get access to the 4 hidden seat bolts. Quick and easy since there are only 3 screws holding the trunk box in pace.
2) Take pictures of every step for reference on the re-install.
3) Pry up the teeth a little to easily remove the hold down ring. Then use a long flat blade screw driver and hammer to tap the ring loose, CCW. There are no gas fumes at this point so it doesn't seem to present a fire hazard. Keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case fir the rest.
4) Wires and hoses get in the way. Every electrical connector and gas line needs to be tied back so that it stays out of the way. A few minutes spent here will save lots of frustration later.
5) Wiggle and giggle the fuel pump & sender unit out. It is difficult to do this. Don't use force. HINT: Set up a good fan on the passenger side with the door open to avoid breathing gas fumes while working. I directed the fresh air to carry the fumes out the driver's side where I was working. If you have difficulty with any step, try going at the task from the opposite side; that seemed to help me when I was stuck.
6) Either replace the variable resistor or clean the surface with a pencil eraser to brighten the surface. The little contacts that move might be cleaned but that would require lots more delicate dis-assembly.
7) Guiding the unit back in was a huge challenge. Ultimately, I needed to remove the float arm, partially install the sender assembly and then delicately re-attach the float arm. This required tying off parts to hold them in the proper position and tying off loose parts (temporary) in case they fell into the tank. I was sweating bullets to get this done.
8) The green sealing ring would not flop into the channel for me. Ultimately, I needed to use contact cement to hold it in place when I placed it where it needed to be seated. Ultimately, I used some thin wire at four points to place the ring properly. There is very little finger room so one needs to improvise how to hold, push, pull and secure things.
9) The electrical connectors went on OK but the cover plate was entangled. Reference to earlier snap shots helped guide flipping it over and feeding connections back to where they belonged.
10) I still need to work on the passenger side which should be easier. This is a difficult repair like assembling a Rubic's cube. It is all finesse. If you use force on delicate parts you will wish you had taken it to the dealer for service. I think they charge a lot because this is a tough project. Good luck and try to enjoy the various challenges.
Thanks for making this video. My santa fe has the same problem and the service areas around me are charging me an fortune. You're awesome!
Will do mine manana thanks to you.. Much appreciated! Have a great holiday season
Great video! I am not sure I actually needed a new sensor, took apart my driver side fuel pump to find a dangling grey wire and an exposed bronze contact, the diagram indicated these should be connected, I replaced the float anyways but perhaps this was my major problem?
One question, I couldn't get the locking ring to completely lock after putting everything back together, in other words it wouldn't go under the first notch no matter how hard tried, it seemed pretty secure in any case, is it a problem if the ring doesn't make it under that first notch?
This video sure hit the high points!
Great video. The fuel sending units I ordered have two different part numbers, one for the right side and one for the left. What do you think would happen if you switched the sending units, placed the right one on the left side and the left one on the right side? Could this be the cause for my light coming back on with 2068 code?
Youviewme, you mentioned that the car has two senders. How do i determine which one is defective? Are the senders the same for both sides? Thanks again in advance
How long do u think it took u to replace both sides?
To get at those bolts with the extensions I believe the cargo bins can b removed to get at them easier
great job thank you. more car videos please
Very handy video. Is the part # the same for both sides?
great vid..good thing the the tank didn't have to be dropped.
How did you undo the large connection on the sender assembly? Did you remove the locking ring first?
Yes
Is there a filter on both sides? Or just the drivers side?
how difficult was the drivers side with the fuel pump? - we have an 2007 with the same problems. :)
How did you get the retaining ring off AND back on? Thanks for doing the video!!!
To get the ring off, use OTC6599 tool. Good luck finding one. they are on backorder till?
T Anthony: The Driver's side was the same effort. Just more tubes ans wires.
I just used a big screw driver with the end ground flat on a grinder. It does take some effort to start the ring turning.
FYI, There is some goopy gasket material holding the plastic cover on.
Since there are two sensors, is it possible that one indicates the level above 1/2 full and the other below 1/2, and if so, which does which? My gage seems to register correctly until the tank gets around the half-full mark, based on the trip mileage after a fill up. Doesn't seem economical to replace both "just because".
Same is happening with mine
+creisme Same with mine. Only replaced drivers side because scan indicated error "Fuel sending unit circuit A". Good so far but probably will need to do the passenger side at some point.
How do you remove the fuel lines off the sending units
I only had to remove fuel level sender, so I don't know.
for some of this models you half to pull dab on back bottom of seat the tab might have slipped down where the seat belt come up from pull tab pull seat up remove plastic cover two bolts near rear of suv then the two at the front behind drivers seat take out seat remove carpet pice than foam revers directions to put seat back in .dc.dc.dc.dc 2017
Different part number. They basically look the same except for the lever/float faces forward on one part and backwards on the other.
So the pump ring came out easy pezzy lemon Squizzy! Lol
I thought I read I need a OTC6599 tool to remove that ring. No?
+Pat Smith Hardest part of the job will be taking that ring off without the tool. I did it with a long punch and hammer but it took a lot of hammering.
Save yourself the expense and hassal, just add Sea Foam on a full tank of gas. The sending unit is very sensitive and the least amount of sludge or dirt will interfere with it working properly. Sea Foam cleans it up. It takes about 5-6 days for the engine light to go off and the gage will be working properly again. This is a common problem on all 2006-2009 Santa Fe's.
Dave, this would save me a ton of money on my 07 santa fe. It works huh?
add a 16 ounce bottle and then fill it with gas?
I just tried this on my 2009 Santa Fe. The gauge does seem to work. But it is erratic. I do not know if it is suppose to start working right away or if in 5 or 6 days it will be working. Fill us in Dave. Thanks!
FilmMakerMedia I tried the sea foam and a tank of gas. It did nothing.
I bought the sensors and the tool to remove the big rings off both sides of the tank. A strong mechanic and I did the job. Hint; if you're going to do it yourself, spray those lock rings with WD 40 a day earlier. As you pull on the 1/2" breaker to release the rings, have someone tap the top of the tool with a hammer. I also bought new seals, but the old ones were perfect. Fairly easy to change. The gas line clips release when you push on them. Mine didn't correct the problem. I still had a 2068 code, which is the passenger side. We pulled that back out and it still comes up. It's full of gas and says 1/2 tank. In 2 days it will be at the dealer for a final fix $$$$$$$$$. The seats were easy to remove. 4 bolts on each seat.
+Linda Stevens I am having the same issue as you. What did the dealer determine was causing the error code to come back?
good luck on getting the lock ring off without the specialty tool to remove it
Got parts from www.partshyundai.com/.
This is Potamkin Hyundai Miami
94430-0W000 FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT $65.02
94460-0W000 FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT $64.99
Which is the Driver side and Passenger side?
Thanks
Part # 94430 is the left (drivers) side, aalso referred to as the main sender. Part # 94460 is the left (passenger) side, also referred to as the sub sender.
Love how you skipped over the lock ring removal.
Get a wood dowel and beat it with a hammer, it's not rocket science
That's what I'm using tomorrow. Thnx for the vid.
bonjour moi jè une hyunday santa fé 2006 boite automatic j veu changer le pond arriere
I have a complete video on this subject if you would like more information.
i just did that.... took me 7 hours and realized i got wrong part from RockAuto. i ll never buy from them again
Lol fuel ring hand tight.. sure