Glad you liked it! Take care Dean. And check out FricknJeep in Mt. Airy. John knows one or two things about these mills and he's a great mentor/teacher.
Way back when around nineteen hundred and ninety-five. we would over tack our saw on the hickory/oak. we slowed it down, and the wane was better and less marks... we did re-pulley the saw drive and had more torque at the same 2893 rpm with less run-out.. but we were a small outfit around 936 logs per season. We found that slower was faster, as the re-saw needed was less back in the yesteryear.. happy paneling, guys...
Not an experienced Sawyer by any means (Dad ran the saw) but I do get the feeling that you are getting log twist or binding along with an under powered mill. When Cody connects with the log he doesn't back off for that split second for the saw to bite. I think it needs more rpm and more power because I hear the speed drop off fast, especially when Cody is running it. But what do I know!!!!
Essentially three conditions can cause the saw to heat up. You can probably rule out the first two which are bad bearings which will cause the center of the saw to heat up or worn teeth and shanks which will cause the rim to heat up. In your case, I think the one login particular, especially the one that Cody cut in half look like a binding log which can heat up the middle of the saw very quickly within a matter of seconds. The theory Of crowding the saw by forcing it through too fast, can also be less of a factor, but in this case, you may have a little bit of binding due to the spring tension of the log.
I'll check it out, thanks! I checked them recently. I need to clean the mandrel bearing out. Sadly, with the collar being pressed on it's a huge job to take them apart and clean/grease them properly.
😊😊 HI WAYNE if yall would've sawed like it should be it wouldn't be heating up the saw blade has 2 have a air space between it so it can breath it has 2 get air 😊😊 and that old MM engine just doesn't have the power it should neither those were slow speed engines when they were made 😮😮 only about 1,2OO RPM most of all engines be 4 / 1938 had poured babbaitt bearings in them U had 2 pour each bearing by itself 4 the crankshaft and the connectinning rod bearings they had 2 half's 2 them U had 2 heat the old bearings and get them out and clean the bearing beds out and preheat and use babbitt right and space the bearings U,were pouring 🫗 😊 2 keep the babbitt from running our of the bearings and U fit each 1 /2 size / wayne the 1ST insert bearings wasn't used until 1938 that I know of only then that that they was replaceable and U didn't have 2 pour them no more a single bearing 4 main bearing and 2 half's 4 the connecting rod bearings U put them in and shimmer them 😊😊 and them valves U use the old hand valve rappers U used both others had a hand crank which made the work alot faster 😊😊 OMG 11 21 2O24
thanks Clarence. Yea, the old MM is tired.... the oil pressure is low and the compression is down on all jugs.... It is a late 40's engine I think, so it has press in bearings.
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
You are welcome! Cheers.
Enjoying your videos. Looks like everyone had a good saw time. Take care.
Glad you liked it! Take care Dean. And check out FricknJeep in Mt. Airy. John knows one or two things about these mills and he's a great mentor/teacher.
Way back when around nineteen hundred and ninety-five. we would over tack our saw on the hickory/oak. we slowed it down, and the wane was better and less marks... we did re-pulley the saw drive and had more torque at the same 2893 rpm with less run-out.. but we were a small outfit around 936 logs per season. We found that slower was faster, as the re-saw needed was less back in the yesteryear.. happy paneling, guys...
Good sawing Wayne
thank you. And thanks for watching!
Not an experienced Sawyer by any means (Dad ran the saw) but I do get the feeling that you are getting log twist or binding along with an under powered mill. When Cody connects with the log he doesn't back off for that split second for the saw to bite. I think it needs more rpm and more power because I hear the speed drop off fast, especially when Cody is running it. But what do I know!!!!
Who needs a log turner when you have a forklift?
Bill
He's strong!
Essentially three conditions can cause the saw to heat up. You can probably rule out the first two which are bad bearings which will cause the center of the saw to heat up or worn teeth and shanks which will cause the rim to heat up. In your case, I think the one login particular, especially the one that Cody cut in half look like a binding log which can heat up the middle of the saw very quickly within a matter of seconds. The theory Of crowding the saw by forcing it through too fast, can also be less of a factor, but in this case, you may have a little bit of binding due to the spring tension of the log.
thank you. IO spoke to Fricknjeep last night and he said the same thing.
I agree, speed and binding, way too fast on the cart
When the blade gets hot leave it running at cutting speed to help it cool down.
hi there wondering if you ran away , you could have gone by the Detroit diesel guy , he is in East Erul . good sawing , best to all john
now I know where he is I'll stop up. Can you please give me his info?
You might want check the bearing and bushings on your main blade. I am hearing a "hiss" or grinding sound when the saw is cutting.
I'll check it out, thanks! I checked them recently. I need to clean the mandrel bearing out. Sadly, with the collar being pressed on it's a huge job to take them apart and clean/grease them properly.
HaHa, It's snowing as I type!
I'm so glad we moved out of Upstate!!
Still fighting the log instead of using the hoist?
😊😊 HI WAYNE if yall would've sawed like it should be it wouldn't be heating up the saw blade has 2 have a air space between it so it can breath it has 2 get air 😊😊 and that old MM engine just doesn't have the power it should neither those were slow speed engines when they were made 😮😮 only about 1,2OO RPM most of all engines be 4 / 1938 had poured babbaitt bearings in them U had 2 pour each bearing by itself 4 the crankshaft and the connectinning rod bearings they had 2 half's 2 them U had 2 heat the old bearings and get them out and clean the bearing beds out and preheat and use babbitt right and space the bearings U,were pouring 🫗 😊 2 keep the babbitt from running our of the bearings and U fit each 1 /2 size / wayne the 1ST insert bearings wasn't used until 1938 that I know of only then that that they was replaceable and U didn't have 2 pour them no more a single bearing 4 main bearing and 2 half's 4 the connecting rod bearings U put them in and shimmer them 😊😊 and them valves U use the old hand valve rappers U used both others had a hand crank which made the work alot faster 😊😊 OMG 11 21 2O24
thanks Clarence. Yea, the old MM is tired.... the oil pressure is low and the compression is down on all jugs.... It is a late 40's engine I think, so it has press in bearings.