The Stuart Turner 10H Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In this episode:
Some filing work on the trunk guide.
Machining the bearing brasses.
Machining the one piece crankshaft between centres.
Machining the flywheel.
Partial assembly and checking the fit.
Thanks Mark for undertaking this engine build, differing techniques are always welcome , especially to a learner. Ray.
I can't be the only one who has a visceral hate of filing cast iron. Nor the only one who hasn't spent $10,000,000+ USD (may be a slight exaggeration) on Dremel grinding stones doing what I could have done with a $20 file. Interesting the 4 jaw 6 spoke flywheel work holding problem, never thought about it. Evidently you need a 6 jaw chuck. Maybe a mandrel? Nope gotta be a brand new 6 jaw. Good progress already looking "pretty".
I would love to own a 6 jaw chuck! It's like Robin Renzetti says, "everything is made of rubber". I wasn't even gripping the rim of the wheel tightly either.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark. Who said model engineering was easy! 😮 Butt clenching stuff.
Great idea leaving the crank with a ‘forged’ side profile. 👌👏👏👍😀
I like that you can see the original method for forging the crankshaft. But, there's no second chance if it all goes south.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Indeed, the lack of a second chance adds to the jeopardy! 🥴🫣
Hi Mark, What you need is a surface gauge, it is the go to tool for setting up rough surfaces. Either in the lathe, mill or planner.
During the eccentric operations I found myself squinting protectively at the screen - bet it was more so in person! 😄 Thanks, Preso, really enjoying this.
Those types of eccentric turning jobs are always stressful. Even more so when you can't easily do it over again.
Regards,
Mark
Mark… that crank machining had me on the edge of the Lazy Boy 🤣🤣🤣
Turned out great though, and I’m really looking forward to the key and keyway segment.
Regards
Robert
Thanks. Wait until you see the connecting rod build!
Regards,
Mark
That must be quite an old set of parts. They stopped supplying the forged crank years ago. The 10H I built in 2007 came with bits of bar stock to fabricate the crank.
It is an old set of parts. The original sales docket was December 1986 and the seller may have had the parts in stock even longer.
Regards,
Mark
It is coming along Mark. Nice work and good idea on the square collet block to machine the crank.
When you said the jack bolt was not very tight, I thought we were going to see it fly out. May be it was tighter than I expected. Anyway, if that was going to be a worry you could put a few drops of hot melt glue on it to hold it in place.
To be honest, I hadn't thought about it letting go. I suspect that the tailstock pressure does clamp it in place. Whatever the metal composition was, it was nice stuff to turn.
Regards,
Mark
Great stuff, I never get tired of steam engine builds, everyone has a different way of doing them. I've just started a 1/12 ransomes steam engine from Hemingway which will be a challenge
I had seen the Ransomes model a few times in the old British Model Engineer magazine. The working governor would be a really interesting part of the model. It's a very handsome model.
Regards,
Mark
Always enjoy your videos, and straight forward easy to understand narrating
Beautiful work, Preso. And using the lathe to making the bearing blocks to length was a good idea.
Maybe you can weld a piece of round bar on your slotting tool to make the shank longer. Make it the same diameter and you're good to go.
Thanks Michel. I would most likely destroy the slotting tool if I tried to weld it. It would probably vaporise itself into globs of molten steel. I think I can get a better result next time around. I bought some nice long pieces of round HSS.
Regards,
Mark
Really enjoy the machining. I had just a thought on the machining of the crank throw. An adjustable strobe light might have helped. or it might have caused a siezure.
Any additional visual feedback would make it less stressful. It really is difficult to make out what is going on. You end up having to trust the DRO and stop when you reach the right numbers.
Regards,
Mark
Progressing at an industrially revolutionary pace!
Great work, nice to see some different setups. And you seem to be getting on with this quite quickly! I had one of these kits but long before I had the equiptment to machine it and sadly I passed it onto to someone else. Of course I regret not keeping it now!.. I was told the valve chest cover was particularly glass hard so I hope yours is a bit easier to work with.
Compared to the Stuart #8 that I made a few years ago, this one is pretty straightforward although quite a bit smaller than the #8. Sometimes bigger is easier to make!
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark. Crazy idea but if you ever find yourself doing this again try setting up a strobe light. You can then “stop” the rotational movement and see where the tool is in relation to the part.
Any feedback would be helpful when turning parts like that crankshaft. It's all a bit of a blur and my eyes aren't the best anyway! 😕
Regards,
Mark
That was the first time I’ve seen the method of using the pin chuck and rod, thus proving that it was worth your doing a build series of this model.
It's really old school but it works. I recall reading about how the Victorian era fitters and engineers would make pin gauges on site and then take them back to the machine shop to make up new bearings. The pin gauges were just pieces of steel rod sharpened to a point at both ends and adjusted to fit in the bore of a connecting rod or a cylinder. The new parts were machined using the pin gauge as a reference. No fancy telescoping bore gauges or micrometers were used.
Regards,
Mark
Mark, I recently machined a 8” flywheel for a steam tractor, I started down the same path you took, however after having to tap it back in place twice, I machined the bore to size and made a mandrel to hold the wheel. I created a drive dog with a bolt to drive the wheel on one of the spokes otherwise the wheel slipped on the mandrel .. the 8” wheel was just too big to accomplish it the way you were able to do… you engine going to look great. … really looking forward to see how you make the tapered key… I plan to use the same method it attach the flywheel to the crank
Thanks. If the flywheel were any larger I don't think my method would be reliable. When I made the flywheel for the #8 engine I had to grip the casting by the inside of the rim. Luckily, it was fairly concentric to the rest of the features. But you are correct, you need to have a decent grip to make it work.
Regards,
Mark
I like the idea of using a gib key ! The hold very well but can prove to be a bugger to remove in my full size engines after they have been in for a hundred years . I’ll be watching to see how you cut the tapered key way in the flywheel 😉.
Thanks. I made a new slotting tool today and I tried it out in some scrap cast iron. It seems to work well but it's pretty delicate at only 2mm thick and it has to be quite long to make it all the way through the flywheel boss. I am going to try it for real tomorrow.
Regards,
Mark
Nice progress Mark! That crankshaft must have been nerve racking...
Looking Good,
Cheers....ATB...
Thanks Mark. You are inspiring me to complete the one I have setting on my shelf.
I know how it feels. I have a Stuart Turner boiler feed pump that has been waiting 20 years for me to finish it.
Regards,
Mark
A lot of interesting machining.
Mark, what is the proper name for the small ID measuring tool you used to measure the ID of the flywheel? I know that they come in multiple (small) sizes, but don't recall what they're called.
I have always called them a small bore gauge. I have a set of four and I think they were made by Mitutoyo. I found these by Insize generaltools.com.au/product/insize-3-13mm-small-hole-gauge-set/
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Thanks Mark!
Very interesting work Mark! BTW, you haven't commented on my Vegemite video, have you seen it?
I just watched it now. To be fair, it is one of those foods that tends to polarise people (a bit like coriander or cilantro). Well done for trying it. It can be very hard to find outside Australia and New Zealand though.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I love Cilantro, my wife hates it, so ya, I know that situation all too well... I think The Scottish & Irish Store in the city carries it. The front 2/3 of the store is Kilts & Kilt Paraphernalia the back 1/3 is groceries from anywhere the Scots & Irish settled...
I beleve it's just he habbit, but why all of the YT use center drill for start of the drilling?
It's far from ideal cos drill will catch on the edges, and wander... Much better aproach is to use short drill with angle greater then 118. So it will engage center first, and follow it.
Stefan explaned it in one of his videos.
I agree but up until recently I didn't have a good selection of spotting drills. I actually just purchased some short solid carbide spotting drills and I am keen to try them out.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 If you have only center drill, just spot the shalow dimple with the tip of it. Just the cone of the tip, do not go further.
It will create deep enough cone so the regular drill will not wonder, and angle of the tip on the center drill is something like 118 or even more (not sure), so regular drill will engage on the tip, not on the edges.
😌♾🎞🧎🏻♂
Beautiful 👍👍😎👍👍
Thx for the vid.
Enjoyed discussion and build….good tips
My little Lathe is currently in bits for some work so some vicarious machining will have to do.
Looking good!
I like the look of the brass bearings; it gives off a 19th-century vibe.
I bet the butt cheeks were quite sensitive after that process. Wow that was quite intense there Mr P. Nice job. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Thanks Yves. If I had a box full of those crankshaft forgings I wouldn't have been so nervous.
Regards,
Mark
Love your work Mark, it's going to be a great little engine.
Awesome job nice to see u problem solving good idea on holding that crankshaft to do the big end crank pin ...
Thanks. I had made a similar but larger crankshaft for the Stuart #8 engine and I made a lot of very specific fixtures to make it happen. I cannot recall if I had the square collet block at the time but it sure makes eccentric turning a whole lot easier.
Regards,
Mark
Loving this build Mark.
The crankshaft may be "ductile" cast iron, rather than "gray" cast iron.
I have always called it malleable cast iron. I am sure it's not grey cast iron though. It's way nicer to machine than the low quality steel that I normally have to machine.
Regards,
Mark
Wow, that was some spooky work. Very well done 👍
As always, a well explained video as to what you are doing. I am very much at the beginning of my metalworking life as I have always made wooden models as in my videos. One thing that I would have been very wary of is the nut and bolt flying out would a little tape wrapped around to prevent any flying parts, I know you managed to do so without any problems. I know at some staage the tape would need to be removed for some of the operations
To be honest, I hadn't thought about centrifugal force wanting to eject the jack screw. I think the tailstock pressure helps to pinch it in place. Plasticine or hot glue would work well too.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I did forget to mention that I do wood turning and if people see what I get up to would make them cringe, however I do sometimes wrap cling film around a item where possible to prevent chunks from flying around the workshop
I’d probably never build a steam engine, but as a new bee, there’s so much to learn from these projects. Thanks Mr Presling. Cheers 👍
That's the thing about watching others doing model engineering work. The skills are transferrable. I have seen others making stuff that I would never have the skills to manage but there is always something that you can adapt or leverage for your own project. I am glad you enjoy the work being done.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I didn’t mean the skills, but the project itself. Anyways thanks again.
Regards, Rex
Nice to see your post 😍😍
Nice job Mark.
AWESOME!!!!
Nice to see this continue, I like your idea for the conrod, nice upgrade 👍
Thanks. I just started on the connecting rod today. I was fortunate enough to see the original steam engines that powered the Tower Bridge in London. They had massive forged iron connecting rods and they looked brand new. Everything about those engines was impeccably restored and maintained. A must see for all steam engine fans.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Good isn't it, I've never seen those engines, and I live about 35 miles away from them 🤣
Although it's close by, I just don't want to see London anymore, I'd rather remember it as it was 55 years ago when a trip to London with Dad was always a treat.
But enjoying your build 👍
Thanks, Mark. I totally agree with making the connecting rod from steel. Looks much better that way.
More work but much greater satisfaction!
Regards,
Mark
Always a good learning experience with your videos! Thanks for your time and skills.