The reason for the border is to ensure that the screen displays graphics at the correct size. Macs revolutionised Desktop Publishing and they are supposed to be adjusted to a specific size. I bought a book on Mac repairs and it came with a cardboard ruler for ensuring the screen was exactly so many inches wide by so many inches tall. Thus a 72dpi font would be exactly 1' tall on the screen. 36dpi font would be exactly 1/2" tall and so on.
You probably already know this, but in case you were not aware: since this thing can run up to 7.6, it can run a pretty decent library of games. Even though it only has a black and white screen, most games won't care and will run anyway. The ones that do will likely complain about not being in 256 color mode or "millions of colors" (24 bit) mode. IIRC there's a system extension (or control panel, can't recall) to make the system pretend to be in those modes to run games that weren't meant to run in B&W, run in B&W. Unfortunately, the Classic 2 is actually slower than an SE/30 even though it came later and doesn't even have a PDS slot for upgrades. There was a CPU upgrade card available for the SE/30 that could bring it from 16Mhz to 33! There were also NICs available as well as some cards that allowed for an external color monitor to be attached! My personal favorite was the Radius Color Pivot, a rotating crt monitor, so goofy. Also, you are probably also aware of abandonware, there's tons available for classic macs online if you're cool with that sort of thing.
Glad to see it back to life! The dishwasher trick is a great option, as it can help clean in spaces you can't reach with a toothbrush. (Assuming you don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner large enough to hold the board) The only two tricks to using the dishwasher method is to NOT use the dishwasher drying function!!! And, really get the board thoroughly dry before using using it. Warm (not too hot!) air helps. Get all the water out before firing it up. Water won't damage electronics as long as there isn't any power flowing thru them. I've also seen people follow up dishwashing with more isopropyl cleaning, as that can help flush the water out. The real problem I have seen with the dishwasher method is people who just do that to fix it. If it works, it's a sign they need to replace the caps. It doesn't stop leaking caps. Just cleans the board. I think you also have a vid about recapping... Off to watch that one! ;-) Congrats.
I can attest to the dishwasher method. It's possible to wash the analog board as well as the digital (logic) board. The only thing you need to do is note the orientation of the socketed chips and then carefully remove them and clean them separately with isopropyl alcohol. Thoroughly dry the board and use an air duster to get any moisture out from under the soldered chips. Leave the boards somewhere warm for a day. Best way to see if there has been a leak from a capacitor is to angle the board against a good light source. The board should have a little shine but if you look near the capacitors, there will be a distinct lack of shine. The electrolyte is conductive and will short between pins causing problems. I used the dishwasher on the digital board then removed the capacitors and replaced them all. A goos scrub will help and the computer might actually work but those capacitors are nearly 30 years old and modern capacitors will have superior electrical qualities and low ESR. Also, change out the PRAM battery, even if it hasn't leaked. It's going to be toast. Oh, and it's not just the logic board capacitors, there are electrolytic capacitors on the analog board that likely need changing. And if it's yellowed from age, you can Retrobrite it and thats another story!
1:25 That's probably why it worked when you got it, seller washed it in order to sell a 'working' system. That's why the board wasn't super dusty. All of these early SMD electrolytics leak in late 80's/early 90's Macintoshes. You can replace them with SMD tantalums that even look like the ones used on some Macs, so the board will look stock and work fine.
Flat-blade screwdriver, wrap wire to it, attach other end to the ground on the 'thing', test for continuity just to be sure the screwdriver shaft is conductive and your connection good. Wiggle the head of the driver under the rubber cap on the CRT, it'll have a big wire running from it to a black thing on a PCB. This is the HV line and Line OutPut Transformer respectively (also known as a LOPTX). Once underneath wiggle the head so it touches the electrode inside the cap. Done. You just discharged a CRT and it's now fairly safe to work on. You can even wear rubber gloves when doing this for added protection. Used to do it in the repair shop all the time and more recently fixing an SE/30.
Most of the Macs will self-discharge after a few minutes, but the comment Sissy said is how to safely discharge a CRT(and even if it does have a bleeder circuit to self discharge, it's not a bad idea to do anyway just to be safe. The small CRTs in these Macs are not nearly as dangerous as people make them out to be, not pleasant to get shocked by one, but not something that is likely to kill you.
It's a black-and-white, so there's no shadow mask (that's why color CRTs have high charge storage). You will still want to go through the paces to not get electrocuted at all, but B&W is the perfect type to get over your fears which are irrational at this point. Its quite ironic you have a B&W icon!
@@tombarber8929 its not the size, this one''s tube is black-and-white, so there's no shadow mask (that's why color CRTs have high charge storage). So, Color Classics (or Colour Classic, depending where you get one) are still a lot more dangerous than the very first ones were.
I remember seeing a Mac for the first time in a business computer store in '84. I was blown away by the GUI as it was the first one I'd ever seen. Thankfully, the reps there let me fiddle with it for as long as I wanted. I wanted one in the worst way, but no way could I afford one. I was intrigued by the Hypercard application and would love to play with that again.
techmoan did a video where he fixes the same issue with just warm soapy water. but I think I remember him saying it's only a temporary fix. which may still give credit to burst caps, if they're leaking slowly.
Yes. It just cleans off the leakage but the caps will continue to leak so the logic board may not be damaged but within a few years the caps will just fail.
I just got one of these for free, and tried starting it a few minutes ago. Yep, 4 vertical bars with attempts at text next to them. This is a handy guide I'll use to take a look and see if cleaning it will work.
Great find! If you can't get much use out of it, it would still look ace as an ornament. I think the Classic is by some margin the nicest looking compact Mac, although most people want an SE/30 due to the power/expandability. The SEs though just never looked right to me...
Thanks for this video, it helped me fix my own Mac Classic raising it from the dead :D ...but how did you fix the screen so there's not that big black border around it?
Kenneth Runge it’s meant to have that border, it’s so that the graphics are at exactly 72dpi for desktop publishing applications and shouldn’t have been changed
I don't see any leaking in there. Bad capacitors are usually very easy to spot.Actually, if you wait a few minutes it should start up by itself. If you leave it off for long enough, it will fail to start up again. My old Macs have all shown this behaviour one time or another: I just replace the battery and everything is fine.Capacitors, though, come in two kinds: "broken" and "not-yet-broken". So it's always a good idea to check for bad caps.
Years ago I bought a really long T15 for these cases, and if, after you take out the two bottom screws you unscrew but don't remove the top screws the case will pop if you give the top of the driver, still in the screw socket, a couple of bumps with the palm of your hand.
Heh, those old mono Mac and Atari CRTs were usually set up to have a pretty large border around the picture, I guess because they wanted to accommodate for a wide variety of magnetic fields from speakers and such on people's desks. Just so you know, that wasn't broken or anything.
Those are either tantalum or ceramic capacitor both of which usually look yellow. These are a fluid based capacitor. Most of these types of SMD metal cased capacitors are less likely to leak. I think Apple just picked a bad parts supplier for this line of computers.
My only contact with these Classic II boxes was in machine typing class way back in the first half of the '90s. And the most fun thing about them, was making fun of them - as hip DOS and Amiga kids would... 😄
Is that one of those authentic Mac carrying bags? As I remember (with my crusty and flawed memory) Apple had carrying bags specifically designed for carrying the classic-case Macs around.
Putting it in a dishwasher is perfect for cleaning. I can assure you it won't hurt regular electronics as long as it has absolutely no power/batteries connected while it's wet :) It won't repair the problem tho. Only get rid of all the schmoo
In this case it would be fine if I removed the battery first, yes. But I'm still not going to go that route. I don't like the idea of subjecting the components to whatever shock the water jets may give them. The water is not a problem, unless there was something like paper caps on the board.
you mentioned this can be avoided all together by turning it on for the first time protecting it with a grounded device, what...what device did you mean? I have an old mac I don't want to harm, even tho I know ill eventually need to recap it and upgrade the fan
I was a fan of the iso and toothbrush approach until I realized you're not removing any dirt with it, you're just smearing it around on the PCB. Out of sight, out of mind kind of thing. Cotton swabs can leave lint, but at least they absorb some of the gunk.
interesting, i thought dragging mounted disks to the trash is the most intuitive vay of ejecting them.. might just be that i grew up on a mac. i remember the time when i first sat down to a PC with win95 on it and tried dragging the floppy icon relentlessly to the trash. then my friend came up to the machine and pressed the eject button. i thought to myself then: 'what is this, 1978? when i want to shut the bloody thing off do i have to yank it out out from the mains?' xDDDD
Want to see this get recapped? Check out the follow up video! ruclips.net/video/mEBjVW9TG2E/видео.html
The way the CRT was adjusted originally is actually correct. There is supposed to be about a 3/8" to 1/2" border around the edge of the screen.
VWestlife it's not anymore :) and also, do you know why they left the border?
it actually stresses out the screen less.
The reason for the border is to ensure that the screen displays graphics at the correct size. Macs revolutionised Desktop Publishing and they are supposed to be adjusted to a specific size. I bought a book on Mac repairs and it came with a cardboard ruler for ensuring the screen was exactly so many inches wide by so many inches tall.
Thus a 72dpi font would be exactly 1' tall on the screen. 36dpi font would be exactly 1/2" tall and so on.
Druaga2 is brilliant
Trash to eject is still a thing, one of the few old weird quirks I know of that they've kept the whole time.
Copy image, paste in to properties as icon for folder/file. Works in OS X just like it does Mac OS 7.x.x surprised the hell out of me when it worked.
Great video! I love seeing the screens completely maxed out to the max width and height.
You probably already know this, but in case you were not aware: since this thing can run up to 7.6, it can run a pretty decent library of games. Even though it only has a black and white screen, most games won't care and will run anyway. The ones that do will likely complain about not being in 256 color mode or "millions of colors" (24 bit) mode. IIRC there's a system extension (or control panel, can't recall) to make the system pretend to be in those modes to run games that weren't meant to run in B&W, run in B&W.
Unfortunately, the Classic 2 is actually slower than an SE/30 even though it came later and doesn't even have a PDS slot for upgrades. There was a CPU upgrade card available for the SE/30 that could bring it from 16Mhz to 33! There were also NICs available as well as some cards that allowed for an external color monitor to be attached! My personal favorite was the Radius Color Pivot, a rotating crt monitor, so goofy.
Also, you are probably also aware of abandonware, there's tons available for classic macs online if you're cool with that sort of thing.
Glad to see it back to life! The dishwasher trick is a great option, as it can help clean in spaces you can't reach with a toothbrush. (Assuming you don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner large enough to hold the board) The only two tricks to using the dishwasher method is to NOT use the dishwasher drying function!!! And, really get the board thoroughly dry before using using it. Warm (not too hot!) air helps. Get all the water out before firing it up. Water won't damage electronics as long as there isn't any power flowing thru them. I've also seen people follow up dishwashing with more isopropyl cleaning, as that can help flush the water out. The real problem I have seen with the dishwasher method is people who just do that to fix it. If it works, it's a sign they need to replace the caps. It doesn't stop leaking caps. Just cleans the board. I think you also have a vid about recapping... Off to watch that one! ;-) Congrats.
I can attest to the dishwasher method. It's possible to wash the analog board as well as the digital (logic) board. The only thing you need to do is note the orientation of the socketed chips and then carefully remove them and clean them separately with isopropyl alcohol. Thoroughly dry the board and use an air duster to get any moisture out from under the soldered chips. Leave the boards somewhere warm for a day.
Best way to see if there has been a leak from a capacitor is to angle the board against a good light source. The board should have a little shine but if you look near the capacitors, there will be a distinct lack of shine. The electrolyte is conductive and will short between pins causing problems.
I used the dishwasher on the digital board then removed the capacitors and replaced them all.
A goos scrub will help and the computer might actually work but those capacitors are nearly 30 years old and modern capacitors will have superior electrical qualities and low ESR.
Also, change out the PRAM battery, even if it hasn't leaked. It's going to be toast.
Oh, and it's not just the logic board capacitors, there are electrolytic capacitors on the analog board that likely need changing.
And if it's yellowed from age, you can Retrobrite it and thats another story!
1:25 That's probably why it worked when you got it, seller washed it in order to sell a 'working' system. That's why the board wasn't super dusty.
All of these early SMD electrolytics leak in late 80's/early 90's Macintoshes. You can replace them with SMD tantalums that even look like the ones used on some Macs, so the board will look stock and work fine.
going back thru all your old videos, this is very quickly becoming my favorite channel on youtube.
Lucky restoration! 💯 I was expecting a lot of caps to swap out with new electrolytic replacements in mind but that was stress-free easy peasy.
I absolutely love these old Macs, but I'm too squeamish around exposed CRTs to ever work on them.
Flat-blade screwdriver, wrap wire to it, attach other end to the ground on the 'thing', test for continuity just to be sure the screwdriver shaft is conductive and your connection good. Wiggle the head of the driver under the rubber cap on the CRT, it'll have a big wire running from it to a black thing on a PCB. This is the HV line and Line OutPut Transformer respectively (also known as a LOPTX). Once underneath wiggle the head so it touches the electrode inside the cap. Done. You just discharged a CRT and it's now fairly safe to work on. You can even wear rubber gloves when doing this for added protection. Used to do it in the repair shop all the time and more recently fixing an SE/30.
@@sarahts21 is there a way to test if the discharged work?
Most of the Macs will self-discharge after a few minutes, but the comment Sissy said is how to safely discharge a CRT(and even if it does have a bleeder circuit to self discharge, it's not a bad idea to do anyway just to be safe. The small CRTs in these Macs are not nearly as dangerous as people make them out to be, not pleasant to get shocked by one, but not something that is likely to kill you.
It's a black-and-white, so there's no shadow mask (that's why color CRTs have high charge storage). You will still want to go through the paces to not get electrocuted at all, but B&W is the perfect type to get over your fears which are irrational at this point. Its quite ironic you have a B&W icon!
@@tombarber8929 its not the size, this one''s tube is black-and-white, so there's no shadow mask (that's why color CRTs have high charge storage). So, Color Classics (or Colour Classic, depending where you get one) are still a lot more dangerous than the very first ones were.
I remember seeing a Mac for the first time in a business computer store in '84. I was blown away by the GUI as it was the first one I'd ever seen. Thankfully, the reps there let me fiddle with it for as long as I wanted. I wanted one in the worst way, but no way could I afford one. I was intrigued by the Hypercard application and would love to play with that again.
I love the improvised extended Mac torx. I used a plain straight tip twelve inch screw driver along with a ground down socket.
techmoan did a video where he fixes the same issue with just warm soapy water. but I think I remember him saying it's only a temporary fix. which may still give credit to burst caps, if they're leaking slowly.
Yes. It just cleans off the leakage but the caps will continue to leak so the logic board may not be damaged but within a few years the caps will just fail.
I just got one of these for free, and tried starting it a few minutes ago. Yep, 4 vertical bars with attempts at text next to them. This is a handy guide I'll use to take a look and see if cleaning it will work.
Hey, I have the same just now. Was it successful?
Great find! If you can't get much use out of it, it would still look ace as an ornament. I think the Classic is by some margin the nicest looking compact Mac, although most people want an SE/30 due to the power/expandability. The SEs though just never looked right to me...
Ah I love that old hdd whine. Music to my ears.
Thanks now I can probably get mine working!
I used to use the old Macintosh Classic II when I was at Secondary school, they where so cool to use
Did you get thoses caps replaced because leaving the old ones can cause the same problem you had before.
Watch the video all the way through. 13:51
Thanks for this video, it helped me fix my own Mac Classic raising it from the dead :D ...but how did you fix the screen so there's not that big black border around it?
Kenneth Runge it’s meant to have that border, it’s so that the graphics are at exactly 72dpi for desktop publishing applications and shouldn’t have been changed
It's.
Still.
A Mac.
It's
The
Better
Mac
I don't see any leaking in there. Bad capacitors are usually very easy to spot.Actually, if you wait a few minutes it should start up by itself. If you leave it off for long enough, it will fail to start up again. My old Macs have all shown this behaviour one time or another: I just replace the battery and everything is fine.Capacitors, though, come in two kinds: "broken" and "not-yet-broken". So it's always a good idea to check for bad caps.
Years ago I bought a really long T15 for these cases, and if, after you take out the two bottom screws you unscrew but don't remove the top screws the case will pop if you give the top of the driver, still in the screw socket, a couple of bumps with the palm of your hand.
Heh, those old mono Mac and Atari CRTs were usually set up to have a pretty large border around the picture, I guess because they wanted to accommodate for a wide variety of magnetic fields from speakers and such on people's desks. Just so you know, that wasn't broken or anything.
Arent these solid capacitors, that shouldnt leak?
Those are either tantalum or ceramic capacitor both of which usually look yellow. These are a fluid based capacitor. Most of these types of SMD metal cased capacitors are less likely to leak. I think Apple just picked a bad parts supplier for this line of computers.
That's a very happy mac
My only contact with these Classic II boxes was in machine typing class way back in the first half of the '90s. And the most fun thing about them, was making fun of them - as hip DOS and Amiga kids would... 😄
Nice video, you gonna do another when you recap it? Also CRTs are SCARY. gg
It seems that every vintage Mac that I've owned or used has a hard drive that goes "oooooWOOOOOOOooooooWOOOOOOOOooooooo." Why is this?
Old + SCSI
Bearings are failing.
Someone explain to me how the MB connects to the CRT board? The only connection I see i SCSI and the floppy connector.
Put a sd2scsi card in there, it will improve capacity and reliability
Rene Verheyen And if it wear with time, its easier to replace and image
i love repair vids! keep it up!
Is that one of those authentic Mac carrying bags? As I remember (with my crusty and flawed memory) Apple had carrying bags specifically designed for carrying the classic-case Macs around.
Yes it is!
Good job I love this machine . I had one
Putting it in a dishwasher is perfect for cleaning. I can assure you it won't hurt regular electronics as long as it has absolutely no power/batteries connected while it's wet :)
It won't repair the problem tho. Only get rid of all the schmoo
In this case it would be fine if I removed the battery first, yes. But I'm still not going to go that route. I don't like the idea of subjecting the components to whatever shock the water jets may give them. The water is not a problem, unless there was something like paper caps on the board.
When we had the Mac 512k/and Mac SE. We played a lot of text adventures.
you mentioned this can be avoided all together by turning it on for the first time protecting it with a grounded device, what...what device did you mean? I have an old mac I don't want to harm, even tho I know ill eventually need to recap it and upgrade the fan
subbed and liked btw, love how you don't waste your breath when speaking, everything you say has purpose with great tonation, modality and variation
and that Grade A satire is fireeeeeee lmaooo
I was a fan of the iso and toothbrush approach until I realized you're not removing any dirt with it, you're just smearing it around on the PCB. Out of sight, out of mind kind of thing. Cotton swabs can leave lint, but at least they absorb some of the gunk.
I don't know why you'd think those brown stains are anything but capacitor fluid.
What is a variac at 0:43?
That cleaning is just temporary. I suspect the caps are still leaking...it will happen again. I would recap the whole board. Just my $0.02.
Yeah, I did go back and recap it because of that reason: ruclips.net/video/mEBjVW9TG2E/видео.html
Why this video is my childhood?? 😂
dang, that mac looks alot like my old IBM - PS1
Fun video, only I think it's a shame that it worked 'cause I really wanted to see you re-cap that thing. :)
I have a followup where I did: ruclips.net/video/mEBjVW9TG2E/видео.html
Awesome, thanks. I should've checked.
Of course it is difficult to open it, it was made by the rotten apple, duh :/
I love your videos anyway :3
Damn that's a big *Mac*
_I am funny?_
You should see the power Macs (especially the g5s)
I got your mac office 1.0 key haha
Intereresting vid.
interesting, i thought dragging mounted disks to the trash is the most intuitive vay of ejecting them.. might just be that i grew up on a mac.
i remember the time when i first sat down to a PC with win95 on it and tried dragging the floppy icon relentlessly to the trash. then my friend came up to the machine and pressed the eject button. i thought to myself then: 'what is this, 1978? when i want to shut the bloody thing off do i have to yank it out out from the mains?' xDDDD
I wonder if' I fix it ' is a sponsor ? Hmmmmmmmmmm.
im so sorry i just autoclicked the comment button and just sent over 10 comments that say "a"
you just unplugged it wrong.
9:30 The bad news is that it is still a Mac. Lol. yep it's still pretty useless.
3:23
Just to save a part for myself to fix my Macintosh.
8:26
This too
eye so pro pol
a
;)
Hehege
This is Druaga2
a
a
a
a
a
a
a
a
a
a
a
a
a
a