Outstanding work! This was kind of a good thing bad thing for me. I was putting my MK6 back together after a total clutch job and snapped off one of the output flange bolts. Looks like there are more than a few few people listing the spec at 31, but we both know that is not or would be driving my TDI now lol. So I have to drop the trans (again) , spilt it and after that I'm a bit lost. I would appreciate any additional info. Thanks for your time.
If you're in the U.S., your Mk6 TDI will have a MQ350 02Q 6 speed. Bigger gear box with two pinion shafts instead of just the one like what I'm working with in this MQ250 02S. The center bolt for securing the flange into the differential only needs to go to 20 ft-lbs. There's only maybe 6-7 mm of threads in the round tab in the spider gear that this bolt is threading into. Really can't get away with a ton of torque with that small surface area threads. VW's actual spec is 25 NM, which translates to around 18.5 ft-lbs, I just round up to 20 and have never had an issue. 31 sounds closer to what the M8 sized perimeter bolts securing the axle to the axle cup would be for MQ250 boxes with 100 mm cups and matching inner CV joints. Spec is actually 33 ft-lbs for those bolts. Your MQ350 should have bigger flanges and bigger diameter bolts (M10) for the inner CV to secure to the axle, and the torque spec there is more like 52 ft-lbs.
I commend you for this very informative series of videos. I notice you didn't bother with a pinion gear brace on the bellhousing. Are you running a stock (PD100?) engine; or do you have HP upgrades? The reason I ask is my case blew out behind the pinion bearing and I have only modest power enhancements. Had I known this was a weak point, I would have installed the pinion brace myself when I upgraded my clutch...
I did ultimately install a pinion brace before installing the transmission in the car. This went into an ALH (90 hp) with a few upgrades. In theory closer to 150-160 hp now, which means torque is over 250 ft lbs for sure.
Did you ever put the 02s into an 02a case? Would it be the same as an 02j? I have a vr6 and was thinking of upgrading the original 02a with an 02s KWB internals.
@billasohyeah no, but I could. At the same time, 02J cases are basically interchangeable. On the gearbox case half, there will be an extension where the axle seal goes. You'll probably want to use 02J style axle cups regardless of what cases you choose because the only diff that accepts a 02S ring gear is 02J-B, which has bolt-in flanges. So, you can use a 02A case, but you'll want to use two 02J409528C axle seals that extend out from the case. Using a 02A/02J gearbox case also means you have to use the internal selector arms from one of those. This means you will have to mill an extra opening in the 5th gear rail to allow the shift tower to get to the 6th gear position. Then you might also want to use the 02A/02J 5th gear lever at the back of the case, as the 02S lever is setup for a shorter throw. But you will have to use the longer spacers the 02S comes with. And you need the 02A/02J upper idler shaft support plus the idler shaft itself from an 02A/02J. I have not personally done it this way yet. I keep using the 0A4 rear case half because it's easier, but the problem with that is there are no provisions for the Mk2/Mk3/Corrado/B3/4 transmission mount bracket. So, if that's what you're swapping into, you'll either consider swapping all those individual parts and modify the shift rail as described, or fabricate a custom trans mount bracket that bolts to the bellhousing in a different manner.
@@dzelpwr yes my problem is I have a mk3 VR6. The VR6 has a different bell housing compared to the 4 cylinder engines and where I'm from there's not much of those available. Thank you so much for your detailed explanation. It's something I'm going to study, collect all the parts and then try it myself.
hello, so for a mark 2 golf. you need to fix the 02s axle bearing to fit 02j , 02j front and back case, 02j shifter tower, 02j shifter shaft and everything else from 02s?? i forget something? heeelp :D
For a mk2, due to its engine mount design, you'd probably want both 02J case halves. The 0A4/02S rear case half does not have all the bosses and bolt holes for the Mk2/3 transmission mount. But doing that means you also need to use the 02A/02J selector assembly, since the pivot pin locations are in different spots on 02A/J vs. 0A4/02S. This means you will need to remove the 5th gear selector rail and modify it to match the openings the 3-4 and 1-2 rails have to allow that arm to move into the 6th gear position. And of course using the 02J shift tower to match the 02A/J shift selector, plus you'd need the bottom bushing with the VW logo cast onto it that bolts to the bottom of the transmission. That needs to be from the 02A/02J as well. The 0A4/02S version has a smaller diameter both in terms of how it fits and centers in the case as well as the bushing itself that the shift tower goes into.
@@dzelpwr thank you for your time and all the details. When the time comes to do this mix.. where I can message you for some more info?any social or an email? I'm sure that I will need your guidance cause I have no clue on gearboxes.
Looking to upgrade my stock diff for Quaife LSD in my 02S. I'd like to know what's the drive(axle) flange size if you can help me? Or more straightforward if the Quaife QDF26R LSD is a plug&play in my case?
The flanges this one came with are 100 mm with the bolt through the center, same part number many 02Js use and TDI 02As. You can swap 108 mm 02J flanges from VR6 and 1.8T cars, they're interchangeable. Same splines. Where it comes to swapping the limited slip, it's better to understand what diff you have. There are two different internal diameter sizes. If I recall, it's 114 mm for 02A and most 02J diffs, 113 mm for very late 02J, 0A4, 02S and any later gearbox. I'm not as familiar with Quaife's part number scheme, but Peloquin and Wavetrac will call the 02S diff a "02J-B". Which is the later, smaller ID ring gear that uses bigger rivets. So, if the QDF26R says it is for a 02J-B, then yes, that would be what you're after.
hello sir , first thank you so much for the video it helped me a ton to disassembly my 02s , my 5th did not engage and it made a very bad sound when i opened it i found that the outer sleeve of the synchro hub the part you have in your left hand at 29:07 is eaten , can you please help find the spare part for it , i cant find it. waiting for your reply. thanks
Hi! For a part like that, you're only likely to be able to buy it through VW dealers. Amazingly, this part appears to be substantially cheaper through VW than the 5 speed selector hub and collar assembly is! It is part number 02S 311 241 F, VW's current retail price on it here in the U.S. is $176.05. The 5 speed selector hub and collar is somewhere around $400 retail these days!! So, very surprised that the lower volume 02S part is that much cheaper.
Please Sir , explain me gear shifter position , I fix same gear , but when shift 2nd gear , reverse gear shift too , I think shifter position wrong my gear box
Have you tried re-aligning your shift linkage? There's a locking pin that is built into the shift tower to lock the shaft into the "home position" for aligning the cable ends. You then open the cable ends so the cable moves freely inside them. Then there's also a pin you would need to buy to lock the lever inside the car into the home position, then you can pull on the cable end away from each cable just gently, then twist to release the collar that locks the cable end back to the cable. Make sure the L shaped locking pin on the shift tower can move in and out freely into the home position still. If it still requires some effort on your part to press down on the selector shaft to get the lock pin back into place, I would try aligning the cable ends one more time, putting a bit more force spreading the cable and cable end apart before releasing the collar again. Once you have it where that lock pin moves in and out easily without having to put any additional pressure on the selector shaft/tower, go ahead and make sure that locking pin is out, remove the pin from the lever inside the car and row through the gears, see if it shifts the way it should. Dieselgeek has a good howto video illustrating exactly how to do it.
You do nice work man. Appreciate the videos , very thorough.
Hi, sir! Thank you so much for all these videos! Could you tell what were the letters of 02s gearbox?
nice video, some time i think that idea, but you became real job,
Outstanding work! This was kind of a good thing bad thing for me. I was putting my MK6 back together after a total clutch job and snapped off one of the output flange bolts. Looks like there are more than a few few people listing the spec at 31, but we both know that is not or would be driving my TDI now lol. So I have to drop the trans (again) , spilt it and after that I'm a bit lost. I would appreciate any additional info. Thanks for your time.
If you're in the U.S., your Mk6 TDI will have a MQ350 02Q 6 speed. Bigger gear box with two pinion shafts instead of just the one like what I'm working with in this MQ250 02S.
The center bolt for securing the flange into the differential only needs to go to 20 ft-lbs. There's only maybe 6-7 mm of threads in the round tab in the spider gear that this bolt is threading into. Really can't get away with a ton of torque with that small surface area threads. VW's actual spec is 25 NM, which translates to around 18.5 ft-lbs, I just round up to 20 and have never had an issue.
31 sounds closer to what the M8 sized perimeter bolts securing the axle to the axle cup would be for MQ250 boxes with 100 mm cups and matching inner CV joints. Spec is actually 33 ft-lbs for those bolts.
Your MQ350 should have bigger flanges and bigger diameter bolts (M10) for the inner CV to secure to the axle, and the torque spec there is more like 52 ft-lbs.
I commend you for this very informative series of videos. I notice you didn't bother with a pinion gear brace on the bellhousing. Are you running a stock (PD100?) engine; or do you have HP upgrades? The reason I ask is my case blew out behind the pinion bearing and I have only modest power enhancements. Had I known this was a weak point, I would have installed the pinion brace myself when I upgraded my clutch...
I did ultimately install a pinion brace before installing the transmission in the car.
This went into an ALH (90 hp) with a few upgrades. In theory closer to 150-160 hp now, which means torque is over 250 ft lbs for sure.
Did you ever put the 02s into an 02a case? Would it be the same as an 02j?
I have a vr6 and was thinking of upgrading the original 02a with an 02s KWB internals.
@billasohyeah no, but I could.
At the same time, 02J cases are basically interchangeable. On the gearbox case half, there will be an extension where the axle seal goes. You'll probably want to use 02J style axle cups regardless of what cases you choose because the only diff that accepts a 02S ring gear is 02J-B, which has bolt-in flanges.
So, you can use a 02A case, but you'll want to use two 02J409528C axle seals that extend out from the case.
Using a 02A/02J gearbox case also means you have to use the internal selector arms from one of those. This means you will have to mill an extra opening in the 5th gear rail to allow the shift tower to get to the 6th gear position.
Then you might also want to use the 02A/02J 5th gear lever at the back of the case, as the 02S lever is setup for a shorter throw. But you will have to use the longer spacers the 02S comes with.
And you need the 02A/02J upper idler shaft support plus the idler shaft itself from an 02A/02J.
I have not personally done it this way yet. I keep using the 0A4 rear case half because it's easier, but the problem with that is there are no provisions for the Mk2/Mk3/Corrado/B3/4 transmission mount bracket. So, if that's what you're swapping into, you'll either consider swapping all those individual parts and modify the shift rail as described, or fabricate a custom trans mount bracket that bolts to the bellhousing in a different manner.
@@dzelpwr yes my problem is I have a mk3 VR6. The VR6 has a different bell housing compared to the 4 cylinder engines and where I'm from there's not much of those available. Thank you so much for your detailed explanation. It's something I'm going to study, collect all the parts and then try it myself.
hello, so for a mark 2 golf. you need to fix the 02s axle bearing to fit 02j , 02j front and back case, 02j shifter tower, 02j shifter shaft and everything else from 02s?? i forget something? heeelp :D
For a mk2, due to its engine mount design, you'd probably want both 02J case halves. The 0A4/02S rear case half does not have all the bosses and bolt holes for the Mk2/3 transmission mount.
But doing that means you also need to use the 02A/02J selector assembly, since the pivot pin locations are in different spots on 02A/J vs. 0A4/02S. This means you will need to remove the 5th gear selector rail and modify it to match the openings the 3-4 and 1-2 rails have to allow that arm to move into the 6th gear position.
And of course using the 02J shift tower to match the 02A/J shift selector, plus you'd need the bottom bushing with the VW logo cast onto it that bolts to the bottom of the transmission. That needs to be from the 02A/02J as well. The 0A4/02S version has a smaller diameter both in terms of how it fits and centers in the case as well as the bushing itself that the shift tower goes into.
@@dzelpwr thank you for your time and all the details.
When the time comes to do this mix.. where I can message you for some more info?any social or an email? I'm sure that I will need your guidance cause I have no clue on gearboxes.
Looking to upgrade my stock diff for Quaife LSD in my 02S. I'd like to know what's the drive(axle) flange size if you can help me? Or more straightforward if the Quaife QDF26R LSD is a plug&play in my case?
The flanges this one came with are 100 mm with the bolt through the center, same part number many 02Js use and TDI 02As. You can swap 108 mm 02J flanges from VR6 and 1.8T cars, they're interchangeable. Same splines.
Where it comes to swapping the limited slip, it's better to understand what diff you have. There are two different internal diameter sizes. If I recall, it's 114 mm for 02A and most 02J diffs, 113 mm for very late 02J, 0A4, 02S and any later gearbox.
I'm not as familiar with Quaife's part number scheme, but Peloquin and Wavetrac will call the 02S diff a "02J-B". Which is the later, smaller ID ring gear that uses bigger rivets. So, if the QDF26R says it is for a 02J-B, then yes, that would be what you're after.
hello sir , first thank you so much for the video it helped me a ton to disassembly my 02s , my 5th did not engage and it made a very bad sound when i opened it i found that the outer sleeve of the synchro hub the part you have in your left hand at 29:07 is eaten , can you please help find the spare part for it , i cant find it. waiting for your reply. thanks
Hi!
For a part like that, you're only likely to be able to buy it through VW dealers. Amazingly, this part appears to be substantially cheaper through VW than the 5 speed selector hub and collar assembly is!
It is part number 02S 311 241 F, VW's current retail price on it here in the U.S. is $176.05.
The 5 speed selector hub and collar is somewhere around $400 retail these days!! So, very surprised that the lower volume 02S part is that much cheaper.
Please Sir , explain me gear shifter position , I fix same gear , but when shift 2nd gear , reverse gear shift too , I think shifter position wrong my gear box
Have you tried re-aligning your shift linkage? There's a locking pin that is built into the shift tower to lock the shaft into the "home position" for aligning the cable ends. You then open the cable ends so the cable moves freely inside them. Then there's also a pin you would need to buy to lock the lever inside the car into the home position, then you can pull on the cable end away from each cable just gently, then twist to release the collar that locks the cable end back to the cable.
Make sure the L shaped locking pin on the shift tower can move in and out freely into the home position still. If it still requires some effort on your part to press down on the selector shaft to get the lock pin back into place, I would try aligning the cable ends one more time, putting a bit more force spreading the cable and cable end apart before releasing the collar again.
Once you have it where that lock pin moves in and out easily without having to put any additional pressure on the selector shaft/tower, go ahead and make sure that locking pin is out, remove the pin from the lever inside the car and row through the gears, see if it shifts the way it should.
Dieselgeek has a good howto video illustrating exactly how to do it.