I think you could run small classes once you have had enough of full time joinery! Fantastic level of detail and explanation as ever. A huge thank you to your client for being so generous and to you too for sharing your skills and approach. I have had my morticer for about 4 months now and bought the same one so make sure they give you a discount on your next machine!
Thankyou Isar! Could be an option for the Future, you just never know whats going to happen i guess. I do like teaching. Brilliant news on the morticer, they are the perfect little machine!!! I much prefer it to the multico i used to use.
Currently binge-watching this series, superb commentary and very educational! I will probably never make an oak casement window... However, I am sure some of this will come in handy as I do want to try making some simple boxes and basic cabinets in the future. Much more enjoyable to watch than most of the American RUclips Woodworkers.
As ever, a great detailed video. You've made me realise that I need to pay much more attention to a high level of accuracy when cutting these joints. I guess I've been rushing it a bit! I'm beginning to regret parting with my old DeWalt radial arm saw now! I love the Kapex, but it can't do trenching cuts high enough to cut those shoulders! Thanks again.
Thanks Ian, A little bit of attention here saves hours of sanding on a big job!! Wouldnt be without a radial, but if you had to choose one or the other the mitre saw is so versatile
Nice one, can't believe just how well and how much detail you go into with these video's... Even if i never make a casement window the level of detail is invaluable and no American accents or dangerous cuts. No offence meant to the USA viewers. edit, just posted this on Woodworking UK on FaceBook
This series is amazing! I've come across a lot of very affordable, good quality, old growth, rift sawn white oak (American) timbers that were floor joists in a late 1800s barn. I have been wanting to turn them into windows but have been too intimidated until now! But one thing that I was wondering about is how to make the tenons using a tenoner. I'm having a hard time visualizing how the short length of the frame tenon is cut when you have the slope of the cill to deal with. Any insight is much appreciated!
Thankyou john. On the cills, you cna just stop the outside shoulder short, and then cut the bevel on a mitre saw or by hand. If you draw the cill profile onto the tenon you can work out where to stop the shoulder.
Another great video, useful tips, detailed and well filmed. I've never used a mortiser before so I'm feeling a lot more confident in using it after watching your videos. Cutting the tenons on the table saw with the timber held vertically by hand looked a bit hairy to me? I guess if your blade is good and sharp, the chance of kickback is small? If I don't have a radial arm saw, there'n no reason why I can't use the table saw to do the second tenon cut, with the timer clamped onto the sliding table?
HI Richard. The morticer is a great tool. im going to do a video on it soon! The vertical holding of timber is pretty save in my opinion. as long as it is kept backed by the push piece it should be fine. Only attempt if you are comfortable and confident to do so though as it is dangerous!
Great details again, thanks. Most people today can't pay attention for more than 30 seconds unless you've got explosions or a car chase in your video, but there are lots of us out there still who can appreciate the details! Does the chap not have spindle moulder he can do the tenons on?
Cheers buddy, haha! its not exactly for that market, more people who like myself when i was an apprentice, looking for more information. Its hard to make every single thing you say relative and new, but sometimes repeating it will stress the importance of the task. I notice i tend to repeat the info i made mistakes on, setback especially, i always forgot them buggers haha!!
You have that Felder shaper and I have it also. Why not buy Felder tooling to cut the tenon with that sliding table and a jig. The Felder tooling has metal shims to arrive at the desired measure and you can keep record of what tooling settings do the job. The shaper is a fast SU and run.
Cheers Vincent, I dont like setting up for tenoning on the shaper, as it requires setup and dismantling. These videos were to show someone who didnt have a tenoner (how id normally do it) how you make the tenons.
You are using Wurth PU in 10oz tubes. I checked with Wurth supply about 6 miles from here and they do not bring that in from your land. You mentioned some WeldWood. I do not see that here. Is there another brand you can recommend for mortise-tenon work that is about the same consistency as Wurth? We have Loctite brand; is that common to your supply?? Some I have looked at go 24hrs for full cure. That seems slow to me/ Thanks I need something in the 3-4 hrs range to remove clamps.
PU tends to be set in 15 mins, quiker in the right conditions. Ive not seen loctite over here but my only advice is try them and see how you get on. Avoid the bottle stuff, its horrid to use,
Erm, for a frame yes, but its possible difficult to do with the rebates. Frames dont really need to be that strong tbh as they tend to be lodged in the brickwork.
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I think you could run small classes once you have had enough of full time joinery! Fantastic level of detail and explanation as ever. A huge thank you to your client for being so generous and to you too for sharing your skills and approach. I have had my morticer for about 4 months now and bought the same one so make sure they give you a discount on your next machine!
Well said!
Thankyou Isar! Could be an option for the Future, you just never know whats going to happen i guess. I do like teaching. Brilliant news on the morticer, they are the perfect little machine!!! I much prefer it to the multico i used to use.
Currently binge-watching this series, superb commentary and very educational! I will probably never make an oak casement window... However, I am sure some of this will come in handy as I do want to try making some simple boxes and basic cabinets in the future. Much more enjoyable to watch than most of the American RUclips Woodworkers.
Awesome! thankyou for that, will keep them coming! :)
As ever, a great detailed video. You've made me realise that I need to pay much more attention to a high level of accuracy when cutting these joints. I guess I've been rushing it a bit! I'm beginning to regret parting with my old DeWalt radial arm saw now! I love the Kapex, but it can't do trenching cuts high enough to cut those shoulders! Thanks again.
Thanks Ian, A little bit of attention here saves hours of sanding on a big job!! Wouldnt be without a radial, but if you had to choose one or the other the mitre saw is so versatile
Really,i don't know how to thank you !!! 🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏 🙏
Go and make windows :) haha
@@BradshawJoinery i haven't spindle moulder 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭 😭
Nice one, can't believe just how well and how much detail you go into with these video's... Even if i never make a casement window the level of detail is invaluable and no American accents or dangerous cuts. No offence meant to the USA viewers. edit, just posted this on Woodworking UK on FaceBook
Thanks Paul, that's great to hear. Really appreciate the share. :)
This series is amazing! I've come across a lot of very affordable, good quality, old growth, rift sawn white oak (American) timbers that were floor joists in a late 1800s barn. I have been wanting to turn them into windows but have been too intimidated until now! But one thing that I was wondering about is how to make the tenons using a tenoner. I'm having a hard time visualizing how the short length of the frame tenon is cut when you have the slope of the cill to deal with. Any insight is much appreciated!
Thankyou john. On the cills, you cna just stop the outside shoulder short, and then cut the bevel on a mitre saw or by hand. If you draw the cill profile onto the tenon you can work out where to stop the shoulder.
Another great video, useful tips, detailed and well filmed. I've never used a mortiser before so I'm feeling a lot more confident in using it after watching your videos.
Cutting the tenons on the table saw with the timber held vertically by hand looked a bit hairy to me? I guess if your blade is good and sharp, the chance of kickback is small?
If I don't have a radial arm saw, there'n no reason why I can't use the table saw to do the second tenon cut, with the timer clamped onto the sliding table?
HI Richard. The morticer is a great tool. im going to do a video on it soon! The vertical holding of timber is pretty save in my opinion. as long as it is kept backed by the push piece it should be fine. Only attempt if you are comfortable and confident to do so though as it is dangerous!
Great details again, thanks. Most people today can't pay attention for more than 30 seconds unless you've got explosions or a car chase in your video, but there are lots of us out there still who can appreciate the details! Does the chap not have spindle moulder he can do the tenons on?
Cheers buddy, haha! its not exactly for that market, more people who like myself when i was an apprentice, looking for more information. Its hard to make every single thing you say relative and new, but sometimes repeating it will stress the importance of the task. I notice i tend to repeat the info i made mistakes on, setback especially, i always forgot them buggers haha!!
You have that Felder shaper and I have it also. Why not buy Felder tooling to cut the tenon with that sliding table and a jig. The Felder tooling has metal shims to arrive at the desired measure and
you can keep record of what tooling settings do the job. The shaper is a fast SU and run.
Cheers Vincent, I dont like setting up for tenoning on the shaper, as it requires setup and dismantling. These videos were to show someone who didnt have a tenoner (how id normally do it) how you make the tenons.
You are using Wurth PU in 10oz tubes. I checked with Wurth supply about 6 miles from here and they do not bring that in from your land. You mentioned some WeldWood. I do not see that here.
Is there another brand you can recommend for mortise-tenon work that is about the same consistency as Wurth? We have Loctite brand; is that common to your supply?? Some I have looked at
go 24hrs for full cure. That seems slow to me/ Thanks I need something in the 3-4 hrs range to remove clamps.
PU tends to be set in 15 mins, quiker in the right conditions. Ive not seen loctite over here but my only advice is try them and see how you get on. Avoid the bottle stuff, its horrid to use,
Could a domino be used or not strong enough?
Erm, for a frame yes, but its possible difficult to do with the rebates. Frames dont really need to be that strong tbh as they tend to be lodged in the brickwork.
Ooooohh aye
Thanks JJ