Speaking from experience with the Volvo MSB gearbox on the Volvo MD17C, once the double-ended cone engages with the recesses, the engine torque applied via the coarse worm gear should hold it there. The little shift paddle should be redundant after it engages, indeed if it were not, it would be under terrible load, and either break, or wear out, and it doesn't. As a rule, try to change gear only at idle, then build the revs. The cones, the cone recesses and the paddle get a hard time if you shift the gearbox at elevated revs. Some models don't even have the ribs on the cones... the cones are smooth and the cone recesses are lined with radial rubber pads. Good luck.
I wondered the same thing. I think technically you could lap the lower gear in place, but I don't think you could do as good a job and it would be hard to ensure you got all the lapping compound cleaned off afterwards which is really important
@@nobama5555 hi go it thanks . i hope you dont mind i ha ve one other question the problem with my drive is that no matter where the shifter is the prop always turn ,even if the cone is neutral and i turn the u joint clock wise the prop still spiin clock wise if i switch to revers and turn the u joint the prop still turn clock wise so no matter where the cone is in neutrul reverse or foward i turn the u joint the prop still turn ,i was wondering if the reason is becouse the drive is off the boat .thank again
@@peppino66castro hard to say. It almost sounds like either the forward or reverse gear bearing is seized on the clutch shaft, but I could be missing something. Also can't really say without know how far into the teardown you are.
@@nobama5555 hi thanks again to answer my question , what happen to this out drive one the teeth of the lower units broke and it make a hole in to the case so whole of the oil came out, and i was out on the lake so i ran with water in the drive to came home but i made it .i her that could be a lot of damage if water get in and here it was a lot of water ,so far i have the actuator housing off the pinoin bearing carrier , and the upper gearhousing top cover . i was thinking to take out that 30 millimeter nut off and take out the top gear and with very fine sand paper and send tha inside of the house where the cone clutch inghages , what are you thinking good idea ? thanks again .Joe
@@peppino66castro that might get it to grab again, but the whole reason to use the original clutch to push the lapping compound is to get a uniform even pressure and surface finish. Just using your fingers and sand paper could make some high/low spots. There's also some speculation that the clutch has a special coating on it, so if that coating is worn the gear lapping will only fix half the problem. My guess is it may work temporarily but may not last. Also if you do try this, make sure you get every single piece of dust out of there afterwards, as that grit will chew up your bearings and gears.
Speaking from experience with the Volvo MSB gearbox on the Volvo MD17C, once the double-ended cone engages with the recesses, the engine torque applied via the coarse worm gear should hold it there. The little shift paddle should be redundant after it engages, indeed if it were not, it would be under terrible load, and either break, or wear out, and it doesn't. As a rule, try to change gear only at idle, then build the revs. The cones, the cone recesses and the paddle get a hard time if you shift the gearbox at elevated revs. Some models don't even have the ribs on the cones... the cones are smooth and the cone recesses are lined with radial rubber pads. Good luck.
Question. That spline coupler... what did u search under to find it?
Volvo part 3852268. I found a used one fairly cheap... but seems going rate is around 50 bucks used
@@nobama5555 nice on ebay?
Yea that's where I got mine
Willing to loan me that tool you made to get that 30mm nut off?
hi my name is joe i got a question , if you have the cone out , do you have to take the lower gear out too? thanks in advance
I wondered the same thing. I think technically you could lap the lower gear in place, but I don't think you could do as good a job and it would be hard to ensure you got all the lapping compound cleaned off afterwards which is really important
@@nobama5555 hi go it thanks . i hope you dont mind i ha ve one other question the problem with my drive is that no matter where the shifter is the prop always turn ,even if the cone is neutral and i turn the u joint clock wise the prop still spiin clock wise if i switch to revers and turn the u joint the prop still turn clock wise so no matter where the cone is in neutrul reverse or foward i turn the u joint the prop still turn ,i was wondering if the reason is becouse the drive is off the boat .thank again
@@peppino66castro hard to say. It almost sounds like either the forward or reverse gear bearing is seized on the clutch shaft, but I could be missing something. Also can't really say without know how far into the teardown you are.
@@nobama5555 hi thanks again to answer my question , what happen to this out drive one the teeth of the lower units broke and it make a hole in to the case so whole of the oil came out, and i was out on the lake so i ran with water in the drive to came home but i made it .i her that could be a lot of damage if water get in and here it was a lot of water ,so far i have the actuator housing off the pinoin bearing carrier , and the upper gearhousing top cover . i was thinking to take out that 30 millimeter nut off and take out the top gear and with very fine sand paper and send tha inside of the house where the cone clutch inghages , what are you thinking good idea ? thanks again .Joe
@@peppino66castro that might get it to grab again, but the whole reason to use the original clutch to push the lapping compound is to get a uniform even pressure and surface finish. Just using your fingers and sand paper could make some high/low spots. There's also some speculation that the clutch has a special coating on it, so if that coating is worn the gear lapping will only fix half the problem. My guess is it may work temporarily but may not last. Also if you do try this, make sure you get every single piece of dust out of there afterwards, as that grit will chew up your bearings and gears.
Remove that nut prior to removing props...put wood block in between prop and cavitation plate. Cheapest tool you'll buy!
I was thinking the same thing, put it in gear and brace the prop, 2ez