Well, I've watched the video quite a few times. This afternoon, after work, I disconnected the batteries and pulled the shift and throttle plate and the main plug, then ran out of light. First time for me, I'm a plumber.
I have a '93 Proline W/A 240 with the same basic setup at the stern. Full transom cover with the cutout for the motor and two small hatches for access. Didn't work for me. I cut out the entire face of the the transom cover leaving about two inches circumference. Made a panel of 1/2" ply and glassed it over. Now I can remove the panel and have full access to the entire stern cavity. Working back there is a pleasure I'll tell ya!! Do not understand why manufacturers don't do this.
Depending in the year I recommend you remove the circulation pump and look at the timing cover, those stamped steel ones rot out like the oil pan...and your going To be in there already.
Love the hat lol. Good choice when working on Mercruiser :D Thanks for a great straightforward video. I'm not pulling my engine this time but now I know what I'll need to when it comes out probably next year.
Great tutorial Ted! I have an '81 Glastron that lost the splines on the couper and have been watching videos on removing the motor. You are the only one who mentioned the power steering lines and how to secure them. I looked online for the part you used and saw the the number in your video is for the larger of the two fittings. I know the smaller one is older, but do you have a part number or thread sizes for it? I am just going to cluge something together but need help on the compression threads. Thanks!
Unfortunatley I don't have a part number. Just kept them from repower jobs over the years. This parts vu link may be the one if your working on a Mercruiser. www.partsvu.com/coupling-11.html?adpos=&scid=scplp22-860099001&sc_intid=22-860099001&gclid=CjwKCAjw87SHBhBiEiwAukSeUZT7YpUwrjCIwZa5z3qSGFbKbEtXnzEbJ45bFIY0ntigiSvpjjVEyxoCsDYQAvD_BwE
Hi Ted, I’ve disconnected everything according to your check list. I’m building an A frame in the cockpit of my Bayliner 2452. I’m assuming that when I lift the engine off the mounts and move it forward it will slide off the universal joint? I’m putting on a new oil pan. What kind of gasket sealer would you recommend? Thanks Glenn
@@praterhowze5889 I sold the boat, I checked my big sockets and the only one with rust stains in it is 1 1/4” which is the standard size or a 3/4” NC nut. So that’s my best guess. Good luck.
@mmonkeysmile That's a fair price. Especially if it's a brand new complete EFI engine with a warranty. For a few bucks more you may be able to get an entire repower with a new transom assy and out drive. Call around to see what's recommended and stay with merc for an easy install.
I am stuck on removing the back bolts. They are seized or something like that. I tried breaker bar, impact driver, but they do not move. Any ideas what I can try here? Thank you
Back engine mount bolts being frozen requires extreme measures, sawsall or torches. I have had to cut the bolt heads off with an acetylene torch as a final method. One thing if you hve room is to soak the bolts with kroil/pb blaster and repeat spraying over the course of a few days. Periodicall try hitting down on the bolt head with heavy hammer and long punch. The bolts are frozen in the steel center of the rubber mount. Then impact gun right and left to see if you can break them loose. Good luck.
Well, I've watched the video quite a few times. This afternoon, after work, I disconnected the batteries and pulled the shift and throttle plate and the main plug, then ran out of light. First time for me, I'm a plumber.
I have a '93 Proline W/A 240 with the same basic setup at the stern. Full transom cover with the cutout for the motor and two small hatches for access. Didn't work for me. I cut out the entire face of the the transom cover leaving about two inches circumference. Made a panel of 1/2" ply and glassed it over. Now I can remove the panel and have full access to the entire stern cavity. Working back there is a pleasure I'll tell ya!! Do not understand why manufacturers don't do this.
Me too. I think the drop in top deck is the reason during assembly of the boat. No fun trying to work through there.
Thanks very straight forward. Just starting today. I have a rust hole in the oil pan
Depending in the year I recommend you remove the circulation pump and look at the timing cover, those stamped steel ones rot out like the oil pan...and your going To be in there already.
Great video Ted. Explained everything perfectly
Glad to help and thank you for the positive feedback!
Thanks for your video, I have to install my motor , and it will be of great help to me !!
Hoping to start on my boat refit this fall. Will be a fun project.
Love the hat lol. Good choice when working on Mercruiser :D
Thanks for a great straightforward video. I'm not pulling my engine this time but now I know what I'll need to when it comes out probably next year.
When they offer me a hat then I will wear it! I have worked on their product for several decades, just don't have a hat!!
:)
Heating the bolt will sometimes help get a frozen bolt loose if it’s possible to get to it if you can’t put fire to it electrical heat will work too.
Great info. You mention the hydraulic line tools. One is a 7/16. What size is the larger one?
Where would I get an adapter for the power steering lines ?
Great video thanks a lot 💯
Great tutorial Ted! I have an '81 Glastron that lost the splines on the couper and have been watching videos on removing the motor. You are the only one who mentioned the power steering lines and how to secure them. I looked online for the part you used and saw the the number in your video is for the larger of the two fittings. I know the smaller one is older, but do you have a part number or thread sizes for it? I am just going to cluge something together but need help on the compression threads. Thanks!
Unfortunatley I don't have a part number. Just kept them from repower jobs over the years. This parts vu link may be the one if your working on a Mercruiser.
www.partsvu.com/coupling-11.html?adpos=&scid=scplp22-860099001&sc_intid=22-860099001&gclid=CjwKCAjw87SHBhBiEiwAukSeUZT7YpUwrjCIwZa5z3qSGFbKbEtXnzEbJ45bFIY0ntigiSvpjjVEyxoCsDYQAvD_BwE
Hi Ted,
I’ve disconnected everything according to your check list. I’m building an A frame in the cockpit of my Bayliner 2452. I’m assuming that when I lift the engine off the mounts and move it forward it will slide off the universal joint? I’m putting on a new oil pan. What kind of gasket sealer would you recommend?
Thanks
Glenn
If it is a sterndrive boat you should remove the drive first
Thanks Ted, is that just the drive unit connected by 6 bolts and trim cylinders or does the rest of the housing have to come off too?
Glenn
@@glenn5ft19 nope just the 6 nuts and trim cylinders. If it's an Alpha standard (right hand prop) shift the drive into forward to remove it.
What size is the motor mount bolt heads?
@@praterhowze5889 I sold the boat, I checked my big sockets and the only one with rust stains in it is 1 1/4” which is the standard size or a 3/4” NC nut. So that’s my best guess. Good luck.
Thank you for the upload . Looking to remove mine next month. I’m just hoping I can get it through that tiny gap with no issue !
If it's real tight looking, remove the manifolds and risers to give you more room, I've had to do that quite a few times.
Found water in my cylinder. Mechanics asking 12-15k for new engine is that a fair price? I saw a 5.7 online for 5k new engine
@@mmonkeysmile that may be a complete engine. Depends if it's a carb or fuel injected.
@ fuel injected- yes it was complete engine replacement. 2006 in salt water ate up everything
@mmonkeysmile That's a fair price. Especially if it's a brand new complete EFI engine with a warranty. For a few bucks more you may be able to get an entire repower with a new transom assy and out drive. Call around to see what's recommended and stay with merc for an easy install.
Hello there, is there a second part?
Awaiting the transom and deck repair to be finished, then I can start putting it back together
Does the raw water line have seal or just clamp
Just a hose clamp
I am stuck on removing the back bolts. They are seized or something like that. I tried breaker bar, impact driver, but they do not move. Any ideas what I can try here? Thank you
Back engine mount bolts being frozen requires extreme measures, sawsall or torches. I have had to cut the bolt heads off with an acetylene torch as a final method.
One thing if you hve room is to soak the bolts with kroil/pb blaster and repeat spraying over the course of a few days. Periodicall try hitting down on the bolt head with heavy hammer and long punch. The bolts are frozen in the steel center of the rubber mount. Then impact gun right and left to see if you can break them loose. Good luck.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Thank you for the advice
So dumb question maybe do you have the out drive already removed or can u take the motor out with it installed
Unless you have lots of room in front of the engine, yes you must remove the drive first.
I have a stuck shaft in my hub housing