Building & Testing a 1960s Formula Car! (Gearblocks)
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In this episode we look at a 1960s formula car that I built and we spend time tuning and adjusting all the setup settings to try and make it drive as fast as possible!
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What else should we build in Gearblocks?
1970s dodge charger and or challenger
Hehe I commented before the creator could even do it
Same woo
truck
No but for real do a big rig with a hitch
you should attempt to make leaf spring suspension
The reason it wants to roll is missing sway bars.
Nah, it just wants to have a little fun
How would swaybars be made in this game
@@collinkaufman2316 add a little swaying to a bar, ez
@@collinkaufman2316 I would extend the wishbones. The inner end of them sits on an axle; If you make that axle fixed to the wishbone piece and everything else free-rotating around the axle, then you can attach any kind of short extra lever arms to that axle. It's not realistic for a racing style wishbone that's in reality made from thin push rods, but it's the easiest way to add an equivalent functionality in the game.
I would have an arm come down from the left top wishbone and an arm coming up from the right bottom wishbone and connect them with a stiff push rod. (In reality you'd want a super stiff suspension/spring piece there, but if kAN had trouble getting the main suspensions stiff enough, then there's no hope for the ones in the sway bar). It will behave slightly asymmetrically, but that shouldn't matter too much.
I think using the opposite configurations in the front and back will symmetrize it a bit. Or you could always fully symmetrize by using both configurations in the front and both in the back.
@collinkaufman2316 you can add stiff suspension horizontally possibly
FYI 1960 F1 cars (and earlier) had anti-roll bars to stop the twisting you are seeing in your suspension in the corners
you can edit the suspension values by right clicking the spring strengh number. and typing in any number. (also higher than 100)
This also works with most other values as well
I've seen other people suggest Sway bars for this car, but I'll provide more of an explanation:
Basically, sway bars lock the 2 sides of the suspension together while alloying a little play between them. This prevents the car from rolling as much as it is and would offer more responsive handling.
Also you can balance over and understeer a bit using suspension and damper stiffness, generally speaking less stiffness = more mechanical grip on that wheel, while more stiffness overall creates more responsive handling as well.
Kan needs to post more gearblocks videos!!!!
One thing that could help the suspension is if you make its built state not flat. Using the same analogy you did, when you lift a real car off its wheels, the wheels sit MUCH lower than they do when they are loaded. What you currently have designed tries to keep the unloaded wheels at the same height as loaded, which makes your operating window extremely tight and significantly limits the amount of useful travel you can have. Plus, it potentially opens up the possibility of using the longer suspension pieces, helping solve the stiffness as well.
All correct, but you don't have to apply any slant in the frozen state (If I understood that first sentence correctly). You could just make the suspension 1 unit longer, so that once it "node grabs" to it's assembled position it pushes the double wishbones down further.
That's the case for the front suspension, he just needs to do the same for the rear
If you shorten the top wish bones a fraction then the wheels won't tilt out with up travel on the suspension. They'll tilt in a hair and help with corner traction.
A bit of caster would help too.
Needs roll-bars
Anyone else notice his right front brake was turned off the whole time and no doing anything lol.
One thing the dev added (which is probably a bug turned feature) is that you can type in ANY value into the sliders by, I believe, right-clicking on it.
Obviously, it may be weird at extremely high/low values, but it does work like you'd expect most of the time.
Motion ratio is bad (ie: springs have very poor leverage because they are so near the pivot of the A-arm). Needs camber gain (shorter top A-arms) so you don't ride the edges of the tires.
F1 used cantilever suspension
not all
20:00 In the rear wishbones you do seem to have space for 2 suspensions on the same axles (2 steps further to the front, on the other side of the CV joints). And in the front, you could maybe mount a second coil 2 steps further out (towards the wheel). Or if there aren't enough mounting points, then 1 step further out on the bottom wishbone and 2 steps further out on the top wishbone should be collision free (but give only half as much of a lever arm than going 2 out on both).
Or you can always just put the second/third/fourth suspension piece outside (in front of/behind) the wishbone.
But I'd seriously try incorporating some sway bar functionality before touching the suspensions themselves.
Kan the suspension needs to be closer to the wheels. If the springs are near the body the springs are softer. Put your springs near the wheel and you should have the full amount of adjustment.
Think about bending a pipe you need a long arm to bend it easy if not it's stiff, same goes for suspension: if wheel is out further then it allows it to pry the suspension easy, if it's close it's stuffer.
Put the larger suspension in the car. But move the upper mounting point to the center line of the car and the lower mounting point closer to the wheel. This will make the shock/coil/spring almost horizontal. This is a common suspension setup for cars like this. It seems really odd when you first see it but it creates a low profile car with very stiff suspension. Also gives the suspension A LOT more travel when you do this. So you may have to add bump stops to stop the wishbones from traveling up too far and the car bottoming out on large bumps.
Another form of this suspension type is mounting the coil horizontal above the car entirely. Attached to a central shock tower and a bar coming up, off the wishbone, just next to the wheel. This set up is favored by many formula SAE teams.
u could try doind a push rod style suspension, with the longer suspensions aligned along the body length, and pushing them with linkages coming fron the wishbone, will help u have stigger suspension and a low profile for the vehicle as well
Increase the wish bone arm length so you can fit a bigger suspension at a steeper angle.
Kan, one thing you could try is adjusting your technique, such as brake before corner then lay off the gas going in, then gas out of the turn.
I would like to see how you drive this car with a steering wheel.
Do F1 cars not have anti-roll bars?
You could try using double coil springs, one in front and one behind the drive shaft. Only downside is that the suspension arms will have to be one block wider.
Yeah that car is WAY too soft also you should probably be using a controller or something with an analog axis for steering and brakes at least , this is my first time seeing this game so I don't know if this is possible but in some race cars put the spring and struts horizontally inside the car body and use a pivot and a lever to transfer the dampening to the wheel, that way they don't stick up
Real F1 cars don't have the springs on the outside. Dunno if you have enough space to replicate it, but if you could use levers to transmit the suspension movement to the inside of the car, you might be able to fit larger springs there, at least in the front.
Jeep or trophy truck 🌵🎮
05:07 You can "hack" the values of the parts by right clicking the numbers and typing any number you want. The devs say it's sorta not official and may produce physics breaking results, so do it at your own risk. And depending on your philosophy, that could be considered kinda cheating.
Damping should not change the equilibrium position.
Damping along with friction can cause some hysteresis, where after pushing down it doesn't extend all the way back to equilibrium and after stretching it doesn't compress all the way back to equilibrium.
Ideally the damper just provides resistance when it is in motion, and acts to stop that motion.
When not in motion the damper should not provide any resistance, so if it isn't at the equilibrium position the spring will push it back slowly.
If you insist on building a realistic car, you CAN'T use keyboard for driving: what do you think would happen if you were to violently swerve your steering wheel in real life?
When tuning the rear brakes, be mindful the electric motors also got braking (regenerative braking even; and with some specific setups rounding errors give you slight free recharging when multiple motors interact); I'm not sure exactly how the math works out, but if you have brakes with control binds on both the wheels and the motors I believe they will act together,
Bread
Ur 4th not including the creator
You should try changing the suspension's roll center, also increasing the dampening would go a long way (maybe completely) clearing the issue that you got on the straights.
Still love this game, pls do more videos on it!
Id be very interested to see 1990's Brabham-style pushrod suspension on this platform...
Hey kAN I was wondering if you have ever tried automation. You build your own motors and everything from the ground up.
What size wheels do you have to play with? If you can use slightly bigger tires, it can provide a little ground clearance so you can stiffen the suspension. I also saw people suggest sway bars which will also help with stability.
Need some caster in witch can also be done by offset control arms but again a swaybar is only as good as the suspension swaybar will stiffen alot of free floating and raod searching but also take in consideration thats not all wheel drive so you the front tires to have between 10-20% more traction to carry the front end around curves witch almost means independent front braking witch means the front 1 front tire needs less braking due to the curve to going around to keep traction and stability witch is what some people call a moonshiner brake
Its probably bottoming out because your body panels are steel. Making them plastic is a more resonable weight.
"modern cars the wheels go in" not when they have a double wishbone geometry they don't! :D It's not desirable for the wheels to have excessive camber under load as you reduce the amount of tyre in contact with the road
Hey, kAN absolutely loving your gearblocks videos keep it up!
You’re missing anti-roll bars, I don’t know how torsion works in this game though so you’d have to improvise. I know how to do it in my head but writing it down is hard.
If you can double up the rear suspension to reduce the body roll and keep the front as it is to keep your steering angle, it will help in a straight line and shouldn't affect the cornering too much, looking forward to seeing what you come up with though
Rear wheel drive will kick out, f1 games are notorious for teaching you to accelerate properly
It's amazing to see this mcPherson scheme at work, I know u were into rc cars where u learned all the stuff and maybe for you is discounted but to me, watching them work and see how they transfer loads in a corner and move in such many counterintuitive ways... It's mesmering! Loving it!
And no it's not even close to see an F1 from outside since it all happens too slight and too fast there. This is very intriguing and would deserve some stop motions analysis. There's so much going on!
Wrong video, he stated multiple times this is double wishbone suspension
@@jakubpollak2067 I got confused why th did I wrote mcPherson. He evenm explains the difference how they affect the camber angle
@@bonovoxel7527 Yeah, but he failed to notice that even on picture of example he showed the double wishbone, didn't had paralel arms, thus changing camber as compresed
maybe why it so slammed down is because the "cover parts" are made out of pure steel
i think it would be better in aluminum
You could maybe just do a lazy fix to the wobble o the straights and just have a button to lick the suspension when you need it
Is aero a thing in this game? You need sway bars and down force.
Sway bars, and might be able to use the bigger suspension if u relocate it with pushrods and levers
making the arms longer would just make it even softer. lever principle. you need to move the suspension out closer to the wheel to make it stronger.
Skinnyer wheels in the back would be nice and try to soften the springs and stiffen the oil dampener
This desperately needs an anti roll bar and stiffen the suspension a bit more. Should fix most of the wobbliness
You can go past the limit, just click on the number in the menu and type in the number you want.
The combustion engines are in testing fase, would love to see what u come up with w that!
Needs sway bars and camber gains with suspension compression
you dont need stiffer springs you just need to turn up the dampening
You definetly need some kind of a swaybar system.
Mabe like the swaybar halfs on the double wishbone and connected via gear and a suspension piece.
suspension
I
v
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II = \ oo / = II
Im waiting for Gas powered stuff, Going to be a great update
you need a stabilizer, it should kill the wobble
F1 cars of the era used pull/push bar suspension configurations. Usually pull on the front to save space & push on the rear to make room for the engine, but that largely depended on the car's design. Looking at how your car hung & rolled, perhaps a lower pull bar config could pull double duty as suspension & anti-roll. Look at F1 cars from 1960-1966, the pre-aero cigar-racers.
Just build a cantilever setup
The suspension is way too soft for formula
do internal suspension like modern f1
you'd wanna add some sway bars in the rear
Next one should be a drift car
When this is reasonably completed you should do a Top Gear style competition. Maybe a Multiplayer Monday if you feel like getting out of Trailmakers for a week.
When are we gonna see more Revhead?
Try a car with tension suspension
and here we go again!! Hi kAN! :)
Something that worked well for me was setting the brakes to be activated by default, then bind them to the forward and reverse keys to deactivate them. If you set the strength just right, you can slow down at an ideal rate for turning by simply letting off the gas.
Put wings on front an back?
Look into sway bars
dumb question, is it possible to double double wishbone the front?
SWAY BARRSSS
Fe
A plane if its possible
This is so cool!
First
third
Nah I am
But ur 3rd
@@wilfredoaviles6959 agreed didnt update on my end you got me by like 10 seconds
Zero braking torque on the motors.