Building a mold with sodium silicate
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This is the way I use sodium silicate to build my molds for casting aluminum. Although I'm relatively new to casting I have had more success with this method than green sand and lost foam. Advice is always welcome, trolls are not, and if you think I need better PPE, you're welcome to send it to me. BTW- sorry about the fan noise in the background, I didn't realize the camera would pick it up so well.
hi. gOOD JOB. i have some questions .1- what is the role and Effect of CO2 gas in this method? 2- what is the CO2 injection pressure rate ? 3- how we can find out we have injected enough CO2 in soil?
The CO2 reacts with the sodium silicate and causes it to harden. Alternatively you could wait for the CO in the atmosphere to react with it, but at .04% CO2 that could take a while. :^) I don't watch the pressure really, just try not to blow sand all over the place - it does not take a lot. You will know when the mold is hard enough, if you do it as shown here, the sand around the form will harden before the surface.
Good video. Is it reuse the sand again.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! I don't reuse the sand again because it is easier to get new sand then spend the time it takes to 'mull' the used stuff. The mold is as hard as a rock so it takes more effort than it is worth.
i thought that jug was actual arizona tea before you mentioned it was sodium silicate haha. great video though!
I dont trust myself to pour molten metal, im doing it some other way
Excellent, did you use neutral or alkaline sodium silicate?
ruclips.net/video/N1OkxArX1Zk/видео.html
O silicato de sódio que uso é quase transparente, pode me explicar se a diferença se dá pela concentração ?
A maca do gato contem alguns cristais azuis. Isso é o que faz com que a cor. Obrigado por assistir.
É que moro no Brasil, e por aqui não dá pra confiar muito em compras pela internet, cheguei a desconfiar que meu produto não era silicato de sódio puro, mas diluído, obrigado por responder.
Você pode fazer isso. ruclips.net/video/N1OkxArX1Zk/видео.html
Thanks for sharing the mistakes and fixes. Often people show perfect process but I learned A LOT from you and know it will help in my castings. Well done!
Thank you for watching. I'm no expert and refuse to pretend I am, so it is rewarding to think that someone might actually get something out of these videos.
Thanks and I'm glad to know I've helped! Of course I'm learning all of the time myself. I thought I would be close with that pour but I was way off, primarily because I did not take the time to recalculate after a design change or accurately calculate the runners and sprue.
how much sand how much sodium silicate?
I don't measure it out, I just make sure the sand is damp and well coated
You use Arizona tea in your sand! I've been drinking that stuff for years! Just kidding good job sir. I may have to try this method.
+Gary S ha! those containers are great for this application. nice and sturdy. Thanks for watching my video, If you do try this method please put it on RUclips for all to see. I really enjoy watching what/how others cast.
What is the size of silica sand granules for metal foundry and thank you man
I used sand from a construction site - no idea what the grain size was!
@@nurfays123 thank you man🥺
There are permanent molde by hand that save you time and effort
not sure what you are trying to say, but this was a one-of-a-kind item
@@nurfays123 Sorry for the delay, but I will try to send you a RUclips site to see how it is made, but they will not recrets of this work
Your pours are coming out really nice. I'll have to try your recipe from a couple of videos ago. I have attempted sodium silicate cores before. I got the sodium silicate from an auto parts store in the form of instant radiator fix.
thanks man good video . learned alot from the success and the short pour. ill have to make sure i have that much extra when i pour my casting this fall . :)
I work in a steel foundry and have worked with co2 sand ONLY IN CORES not complete molds though, If you do not want to use green sand you could always try No Bake chemical sand process that is what work with at my job, it would be much less time consuming for you and probably better casting quality. if you want to continue with the CO2 process maybe you could get a more uniform, quicker hardness and set time if you poked more holes into it and maybe took a container as close to the same size as your box, poke a hole the size of your CO2 line and plug the hole in the container with it and put it over yor mold.
Thanks. It took a few times to get it right but perseverance pays. Let me know how it works out for you, it would be pretty cool to think that someone has benefitted from one of my videos, I know I've benefitted from many good ones out there, especially those I subscribed to but primarily; myfordboy, SV Seeker, mrpete222 and Keith Fenner.
I will. Coincidentally, I am also subscribed to all those you just mentioned.
thanks for the video, but please label that sodium silicate in that Arizona tea bottle. that is an accident waiting to happen.
What is the liquid you used to bond silica Sand ?
Please share the method how sodium silicate use with concrete roof waterproofing and coating.
I do not know
great video. Thanks for sharing. subscribed / thumbs up
hey, this idea cross my mind a few months ago, how about the surface finish??? better than green sand or worst???
+fireblade639 sorry about the delay in answering, for some reason your comment was 'awaiting approval' and I didn't see it until now (I didn't even realize RUclips did that) so thanks for watching. I'm happy with the finish, I haven't done any successful green sand casting so I can't compare, but it is as good as any lost foam casting I've done.
Slower camera movements will make the video easier to watch.
Hi Rod thanks for sharing with us the use of sodium silicate as a green sand mold replacement. I hadnt actually considered this as an option to greensand casting. One advantage of this method is that you can prepare your mold[s] in advance of your pour day and you are not worried about them drying out as would happen with greensand molds. Is the sand reusable after a pour? I noted you watch myfordboy and Mr Pete so I was surprised you are not going to use myfordboy's method of feeder and riser extenders.
Hi mark, thanks for watching my videos. The sand is pretty hard after use, I suppose if you want to you could crush it up and try to use it. It's pretty cheap around here so I haven't bothered. I haven't had to use the riser extenders yet, apparently the risers I build are enough to do the trick.
cool thanks for the link,i'm gonna try😆
A broken screw driver is also great for carving sprew holes.
Bud where do u get that black sand for casting i cant find any wtf
I sometimes make fiberglass part for model airplanes and model boat hulls. As a mold release I use polyvinyl alcohol, PVA, and it works good. I will see if it also works with sodium silicate and get back to you. My goal is to make an intake manifold for an old V8 using cores and want to go sodium silicate for the entire process. Bill
Sounds like a fun project! Do you plan to post videos? That would be cool, anyway I'm looking forward to learning of your progress.
Hello . great video. with this technique you could make the piston of a car without milling it?
Thank you Lele Armi, Glad you enjoyed the video. I personally would not expect to achieve the tolerances or finish one would expect for a piston. Maybe there are experts out there who can, but I'm no expert. Nor am I sure I would trust cast metal for that job anyway . . . seems like it would be too brittle.
First I have to make a fiberglass hood for my car. Then will start on the intake. What is that piece you were molding?
the body of a flow sight glass, I have the whole thing on my channel but here's the first successful pour: 3RD time is a charm
what do you mix the sand withfallsville@frontier .com
+Joseph Roberts Thanks for watching. As noted in the title I use Sodium Silicate (also known as 'water glass') - which I can make cheaper than buying - here's a link to my video on that ruclips.net/video/N1OkxArX1Zk/видео.html
thanks for clearing that up. i wanted to try this but have no idea how to get my hands on some co2 over here in the netherlands. i have to look that up. cheers
I get mine from a welding supply store - brought it right out to me. But here's an alternative for the real do-it-yourselfer ruclips.net/video/5eYB7SZsRMY/видео.html
Ciao Rod, posso chiederti una gentilezza. Potresti contattarmi. Grazie
HI Luca, what can I do for you?
@@nurfays123 ho realizzato il calco di un busto, con le bende gessate. Ho provato a fare la colata di stagno, ma il metallo appena arriva sul gesso scivola come una gocciolina di acqua. Parlando con un'amica artista che crea lavori simili con il bronzo, che devo usare il silicato di sodio mischiato alla resina e ad un indurente, cosi da ottenere uni stampo poroso, che trattiene e non fa scivolare il metallo e grazie alla resina rimane intatto senza deteriorarsi. Potresti aiutarmi a capire che resina e indurente usare assieme alla sabbia e le varie proporzioni.
@@nurfays123 hai un canale Instagram o una mail, cosi ti mostro il risultato che io ho ottenuto e quello che vorrei ottenere?
@@lucastancanelli1974 If you go here you will see what I use: ruclips.net/video/N1OkxArX1Zk/видео.html The ratios are 2 g NaOH for every 3 g Silica gel. I added about 5 ml H2O for this ratio. Since I used a 50% aqueous NaOH solution you may need to adjust how much water you use. My normal batch size is as follows:
450 ml 50% NaOH solution (~344 g NaOH)
516.03 g silica gel
860.05 ml H2O
This will make about 1500 ml give or take a 100ml depending on how long you let it boil down. I usually end up with1400 ml.
Chances are good you'll need to play with this recipe to get the results you want but this works for me with the ingredients I use.
@@nurfays123 Grazie
That sodium silicate looks super diluted. Every time I made it it was a MUCH more syrupy consistency
it worked . . . well
Oh, don't misunderstand. I'm sure it did. Without diluting, mine has always came out like garbage. Diluted came out great though
How many pouring cycles can get from this mold
This type of mold has to be destroyed to get to the casting as can be seen at the end of this clip: ruclips.net/video/Zqtg4AMGpfE/видео.html
Would have liked to see the pour and the final part.
The pour with this particular mold was a failure - ruclips.net/video/oatbGaICB6U/видео.html
but then I got it on my third try - ruclips.net/video/Zqtg4AMGpfE/видео.html
do you need to use carbon dioxcide to harden the sodium silicate?
Carbon dioxide is necessary, however; if you just let the sodium silicate sit it will eventually harden from the CO2 in the atmosphere, but considering that the atmosphere is only .04% CO2 and depending on the size of the mold, it may take a while.
Did you pack the sand or just rely on the C02 to harden it?
sorry for the delay in answering Dave. I packed enough to ensure the mold would take the shape of the form and to get the grains as close together as possible (better finish I think).
i used many tons of quarz sand and waterglass in my old job in a bronze foundry. we used a special fluid to prevent stiking, like a coating gel to apply on the pattern. nobody knows the name, a lot of things were secrets from the old boss that was working in striktly contact with us
+Denny Arcano graphite?
no, alcool-grapghyte or ammonia-waterbasis graphyte were used for metal spinning casting. for sandcasting we used a transparent agent, a gelcoat that prevent sticking on the patterns. then the sand, once dried, was coated with alcool graphyte and burned...
Denny Arcano not good you should always know or be able to find out the chemicals you are working with. there should be a MSDS for everything.
can you reuse the same mold over and over again?
Thanks for watching! The mold gets destroyed when removing the casting, (see it here - ruclips.net/video/Zqtg4AMGpfE/видео.html ) but the form can be used over and over to make new molds. In this case I made three molds in order to get two successful pours.
How do you keep the sodium silicate from sticking to the pattern? Is the pattern made of wax or something that won't stick?
I used talc during this shoot, which still leaves something to be desired. I think the better the paint job on your form (the smoother the finish) the easier time you will have getting a release. Also the sooner you remove the form the better, leaving it overnight turned out to be a bad idea. I've tried wax on the form but to no avail. I have yet to try carbon black - which I do intend to try next time I have a pour. Bottom line is I haven't found a really effective release agent yet, so if you find something that works, give me a shout.
Can the sand be reused again ?
yes, but it can not be 'mulled' like green sand. The mold is more like a weak sandstone so it has to be crushed. Sand is not expensive so I just buy new.
fine
hi, why do you put a hole on the sand
The holes are used for the application of CO2 (which I show @ 6:40) this hardens the sodium silicate very quickly. The holes in the top of the mold also provide a secondary function of venting for any gasses created during the pour.
thank you sir
Nice work sir
Thank you, I hope you enjoyed this.
Very interesting. I've learned a new way for casting aluminum.
Does this way withstand molten copper\bronze? Thanks.
+bingre thanks for watching my vid. I'm glad I was able to share. I've never tried anything but aluminum, but there is one way to find out!
Or you can find it on you tube! ruclips.net/video/v470cY9SxNw/видео.html
Yes you can do that