Virtually every “pro” or F3 experienced shooter I’ve ever seen in the past has used his left hand for the exposure lock button. I use the same method having learned this method from others. Focus first with the left hand then just drop the index finger on the lock button while supporting the camera with your palm. Then recompose and press the shutter button. No biggy. If you prefer the other method which you’re frustrated about, it might be easier to get the MD-4 motor drive which makes your method much easier to accomplish with your middle or ring finger of your tight hand pressing the lock button while firing the shutter with the index finger. Hope this helps.
What you mentioned is a workaround that experienced shooters adopted. But what is said here is true about the design. But as you said, people always finds a way. I also do the same with my F3/F4.
When I bought my F3 36 years ago, the first thing I did was sit on the couch in front of the TV and practiced over and over again. Over a weekend, it became second nature and I never had to think about it again.
I use my right index finger for the trigger button and the left middle finger for the exposure lock and if necessary left thumb and index finger to focus. Works fine
hi Brian i have used an F3 in the past. as others have said, i also used my left hand for exposure lock (while focusing) having said that, it is a feature i rarely needed to use, even with Velvia 50.
A repair technician told me F3s are a joy to work on as they are so simple (and he was a Minolta specialist). The exposure lock is awkward and when the MD4 is attached almost impossible to use. I do not think Nikon ever intended it to be used as it was a pro spec press camera which was usually attached to a drive. As someone below has said the wind on is not a great feel. To enjoy the F3 to its full potential it really does need its drive attached.It becomes super smooth and a joy to hold. Trouble is though it now weighs a ton! The F3 is my favourite pro spec 35mm SLR. I got mine over 15 years ago in good used condition for £150 and a MD4 for £50. Just needed the aperture feeler lubed for another £50. Super value and an awesome camera.
Use your left hand ( thumb and first finger) as always to cradle the lens. Then with center finger press the exposure lock button. Use right hand to hold camera and index finger to press shutter button. Simple !
I thought you were going to say the horrible exposure comp dial, or the really loud shutter. I’m stuck on this model because of its big beautiful HP viewfinder, amazing build, and good looks... but ergonomically it’s a pig, let’s be honest.
don't use contact cement or any glue as it will leak from sides use double-sided tape, cut the tape to the size of the rubber grip using razor and stick it to the rubber grip and then before sticking the rubber grip to the shutter dial add 2 drops of isopropyl alcohol to the sticky side of the rubber grip it will give you some time to adjust the position of the rubber grip till the alcohol evaporates so that it sits in right position, hope it helps,
Re shutter selector repair: A very thinned out coat of contact cement should work okay. (Because I already have some) I's look for a product called Pliobond, which seems to be a particular type/brand of cement used to reattach camera leather or leatherette. It's relative virtue is that it remains a bit tacky for a while, making adjustment or later removal more practical.
Interesting how the FE exposure lock is actually much better! I never really have trouble pushing the self timer lever in and holding it in. In fact, I use pre ai lenses in aperture priority by locking the exposure when using the depth of field preview, which looks goofy but isn't actually that hard. Maybe I have tiny hands.
You are right. I find the Same problem with F4 too for AE/AF lock. My hands are small and it barely reaches those buttons when shutter is half pressed.
They used contact cement back in the day to hold all of the leatherette covers on cameras. Though today as has been said double stick tape may be a better option.
I thought for sure this was going to address the lcd exposure meter readout in the viewfinder. Love the camera and HP finder is great for me, a glasses wearer, but give me some LEDs please! Great video, I liked the 'left hand for the exposure lock while cradling the lens' tip below. I will have to get mine out and try that!
I'm with you. I have been shooting with my beloved F3 since it came out but I never liked the location of it's exposure lock button. Like you, I switch to manual mode when necessary, even though it is not ideal. I don't miss the intermediate shutter speeds when shooting in manual mode; the fixed speeds are good enough. I think that the primary benefit of the electronic shutter is more accurate shutter timing. BTW, I really like the 80/20 heavily center-weighted exposure meter on the F3. I find that on my FM2 with 60/40, I often need to hold the camera at strange angles when metering to avoid bright backgrounds, etc., or else just compensate the exposure.
I wondered if you could comment on how the pro f3 compares to the consumer f301? Both have same shutter speeds, but the f301 has a better located exposure hold and built in auto film wind. What is your experience, is it worth to pay the extra expense to get a f3?
Your F3 looks like new. It's a great camera to my mind...because really nothing gets in the way of taking photos, I'm much faster with an F3 than say an F or F2, Valid point on the exposure lock button...they used to fall off in the early ones... As it's just a plastic prong. I'd post your question on the Facebook F3 groups about which glue to use.
I really like the F3. My digital camera is a Fuji X-H1 and the viewfinder is mega-huge compared to my FE and FM2. I had an F3 back in the 1990s and sold it, have regretted it ever since. Worth it for the viewfinder. I want another one, lots of them out there but they're pretty expensive unless road beaten. Prices really dependent on condition. Great local technician here wants $120 for a complete CLA and new seals provided no parts are needed. I agree with Brian on the metering...just meter the mid-tones and recompose, shoot. I like the 80/20 metering. I was usually able to nail exposures with Kodachrome (not forgiving) pretty consistently and I'm certainly no pro.
“I’ll do my best to my my next video more cheerful and optimistic” Next Video : My One Complaint Just teasing. I don’t have that problem since I use a external meter when shooting. Good info. Thanks for the video!
nice video, thanks. put one drop of super glue at one end of the stip. put the stip in place and let it dry. Then put another drop at the other end of the stip an secure it in place. That's how I would do it.
Interesting, I didn't know the centre weighted metering was so heavily weighted in the centre on the F3. One of the big reasons I chose the F4 over the F3 was because of the built in spot meter amongst few other things I liked on the 4. On the other hand it is very heavy and not exactly discrete so looking at a secondary smaller Nikon too like the FE/FM series to complement it whilst being able to use the same glass.
I would use Pliobond to replace that part as it holds well, but can be removed easily if needed. The super glues atr too runny and the contact cements too permanent, so no room for error. I managed a camera store for 16 yeats and have seen too many cameras ruined by the wrong glue. Good luck!
IMHO you´re absolutely right, I have already experienced that difficulty when trying to use the exposure lock button on the F3; even the F4 has that button on front of it. It seems that by those years ergonomics wasn´t a very well established discipline yet.
@@BriansPhotoShow yes, you're right. Although it's not exactly a neologism, it doesn't appear in many, more recently printed dictionaries. It's a highly specialized term and in a few words, ergonomics (from greek "ergon", meaning "work" and "nomoi", meaning "natural laws") is the science of refining the design of products to optimize them for human use.
Hi Brian, love your videos. I just picked up a beater f3, currently only firing on mechanical release, but I plan on getting it going again. I wondered if you had any advice about lenses for it. I generally prefer the tessar to gauss designs, but I'm not sure if any affordable nikkor lenses used this design. I'm thinking maybe some of the earliest f mount lenses. Looking in the normal focal length range. Any ideas? Cheers!
To my knowledge, the only four-element Nikkor primes are the 45mm f/2.8, which I know absolutely nothing about, the Series E 100mm f/2.8, which I own and am quite fond of, the Pre-AI 135mm lenses, and the pre-AI 200mm lens. The Nikkor-Q 135/3.5 is a four-element Sonnar design, and sells for about the same as a 50mm f/2, thus making it one of the best Nikkor bargains available in my opinion. I'm quite happy with mine, though I believe Nikon's best 135 is the AI f/2.8. I'm not sure is the 45 or 100 are considered Tessar derivatives or not.
Might be easier to hold down the exposure lock button with the left hand, assuming that it's cradling the camera. My Canon A1 has the AE lock to the left of the lens mount where it's positioned for the left hand.
1) That lock button IS intended to be depressed with the pinky. Still awkward, but there you go... 2) For all those folks who hate that system / button, there's an Nikon FA, which have totally modern matrix way of metering. As a matter in fact, to my knowledge, that camera was the very first camera EVER which mattered light in that fashion. 3) Minolta DID had exposure lock button, but on latter camera models like Minolta X300 or X700. And even than, it was done in a weird way, combined with the button for the self-timer function. Subbed, as a side note 😇 I don't own any Nikon gear right now, but I've spent a sizeable chunk of my career working with Nikon cameras, so I like to chat about them 😊
The FA was in fact the first Nikon with matrix metering, though at the time it was called "multi-pattern metering". It also may be the only auto-exposure Nikon without an exposure hold function. Apparently Nikon was so confident in the new metering system that they thought it obviated the need.
Shellac, dissolved in ethanol, is an easily removed adhesive. It is gentle on synthetic materials & is used to adhere rubber & silicone ink sacs to vintage fountain pens. You may wish to ask an art supplier. Art stores (back in the olden days when they were open to the public) sold adhesive gums for temporary masks. They can be readily picked off. The worry with contact cement is the presence of toluene & other solvents which could be injurious to whatever sort of plastic Nikon is using. It may be a bit small & fiddly on a shutter speed dial, but, I have replaced lost or degraded rubber grips on lenses with Turk's head knots finished with acrylic polymer. A 'before the mast' kind of old school! ;-) P.S. For the Turk's head solution it helps to tie the knot (in the desired thickness of nylon twine) on an appropriately sized mandrel before slipping it into position, tightening & sealing. How badly do you dislike the camera?
If you go to your local home improvement shop, they will advise you with an appropriate glue to do the job. On a tlr leatherette and on an olympus lens focusing ring I have used a glue that is for plastics in general, it has good holding properties but it is "weak" enough so that you can manage to detach the upper layer without damaging it should you decide to do so. Cheers
I have exactly the same complaining about this AEL button. Some times I just compensate in manual mode. PS: if you have Nikon FM3A would love to hear your opinion about this slr.
The FM3a is one of the few SLRs that sells for more than an F3 in equivalent condition. Not sure if prices of the high-end premium models will come down much even in a tough economy, but I'll keep my eyes open.
This “problem “ is about exposure lock awkwardness and not intermediate shutter speeds. Using exposure lock is just that… holding an exposure, not dialing in intermediate speeds. But, yes, exposure lock is awkward and fortunately not a frequently used function. I struggle with ring finger dexterity also so use my pinkie finger instead.
Easy-peasy Brian...I thought at first that perhaps my exposure lock button was 'softer' than others but I tried my F3/t and it's exactly the same, so maybe yours could need a CLA? The REAL challenge is using a pre-Ai lens....stopped down...off centre subject....in portrait mode, because then you need the ring finger holding down the exposure lock button, the middle finger holding down the DOF button (much more pressure needed) and the index finger on the shutter button, while holding the camera sideways. But as someone once said....... "Sure if it was easy, then everyone would be doing it?" Despite it's little quirks I still believe that the F3 is the best 35mm film camera ever made.
Hi Brian, I don't own an F3 but I do own an F4 with the AE-L in the same place on the bottom. It sucks! A very valid complaint unless you have the Nikon finger extension! lol. I would use super glue GEL for the grip. I am guessing the rubber grip contracted a little so the ends won't meet. try warming it up a little if you have that issue also. the F5 AE-L is in perfect position for my chubby thumb. Good luck!
Hmm! I hadn't even thought of it till now but it got trickier on F4 where you now had 3 buttons there, DOF new AF-L & AE-L bottom. I have small hands and still center + ring finger to work either or both. I'll pull out the F3 and try again but I do remember the overall ergonomics of F4 was so much more improved on design. But I have F3P+MD-4 so it will balance different. I tend to be gripping w/ my thumb & forefinger primarily.
For the rubber piece, if you haven't already fixed it, I would use super glue and an accelerator. Practice the placement a few times so you have it going right where you want it, then put a few small dabs of glue on the shutter dial, spray the accelerator on the rubber piece, and then put in place. You only need a very small amount of each, you might even want to apply the glue with a toothpick to make sure none squeezes out when applying the rubber strip. Should hold forever. Cheers!
@@BriansPhotoShow here is an example of what to look for (not used this brand personally, but should work) "Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack" - Amazon carries this and others. Sometimes called an accelerator, sometimes called an activator, or like here, Insta-set. The accelerator speeds up the cyanoacrylate glue, allowing it to set faster, usually in about 15 seconds or so, compared to the 30 seconds to several minutes without accelerator. (Works great for nasty cuts too, don't ask me how I know!)
I don’t tend to use this method as I usually take an exposure reading and then adjust the shutter speed manually and recompose but as long as you have battery and you are using aperture priority is it not possible to use the exposure lock function and then release the shutter using the secondary shutter release (tab thing?) ? It appears to be comfortable enough and that way your finger is already there and no need to stretch as per the method shown in this video? I know the secondary shutter release is locked at 1/80s when the camera is out of battery or switched off or during the first few frames before the frame counter reaches 1 but otherwise is the secondary shutter release not synched fully and functions just the same? , I could be wrong.
Hey Brian, I was wondering if you could address a problem I’m having with my newly bought, Excellent condition F3. Even with fresh batteries, I’m having an issue where the shutter simply won’t fire on any setting. The only way I can trip the shutter is by using the manual lever that’s paired with the exposure hold button you just discussed in this video. The manual shutter release lever. At that point, I can advance the film once, but then I’m back to a shutter that won’t fire. Really perplexed because the condition of this camera is great and the shutter and advance actions feel and sound perfect. Any suggestions?
I thought the shutter on my F3 was faulty as well when I first got it. Then I learned that when you load a roll of film, you must fire and advance three frames before the shutter returns to normal function. Why Nikon thought this was necessary for a professional camera is beyond me.
I''m going to be far from the only one to say this BUT you cradle the camera and lens set up with your left hand, surely then there is/are a finger/s available on your left hand to use the exposure lock, or you just practice till it becomes second nature. Like most things in life it's a compromise
I use waterproof wood glue for all of my covering issues (Titebond III Ultimate) or similar. Just put a thin coat on the two surfaces (no need to rush), put a rubber band(s) around the knob, clean up the excess with a Q-tip dipped in a tiny bit of water, leave overnight, and bingo! I've been using this method for years on many types of cameras...Shhhh don't tell anyone ;-)
For a camera in such good condition I'd leave that repair to a proper technician, I'm sure a good one wouldn't charge more than a few dollars. Regarding the exposure lock button, I find it to be in a comfortable spot for me, but I'm also just as comfortable with the modern placement so I guess it just comes down to hand size and shape. I have a little sony rx100 iv I barely use because it's so bloody small I keep hitting the on/off button instead of the shutter.
Lok Tite super glue, very small amount, then apply it to only part of the rubber strip so that you can hold that part for the required 20 seconds against the wheel, let it sit 24 hours. Apply more super glue to another segment of the rubber and repeat the process, perhaps 2 or 3 times until you have re-attached it all the way around the wheel. I think I would avoid using just any glue. I would use the super glue in very small amounts. Take care not to get your fingers stuck to it. It takes 24 hours to come to full strength. (I have used it to re-attach a canon 5d mirror (tiny drop in 4 corners, 20 seconds of moderate pressure, let sit 24 hours, el perfecto baaby!)
@@BriansPhotoShow cyanoacrylate or some variation of it seems to be the main ingredient. I saw a video where a guy did a pretty good test comparing brands of super glue, wish I could remember who it was. But he was pretty thorough, he did all kinds of stuff and took measurements and was reasonably good in being thorough. I had good luck with the locttite brand, but they all seem to be pretty similar.
Nikon never embraced technology in the way Canon did in the 1980s. There was a sense that professionals were only ever going to shoot manual, but they'd better include the latest thing to keep the accountants happy. Nikon had the professional service and hire market sewn up, and didn't have to try too hard on innovation. The build quality was always exceptional, and the F3 is no exception.
Nikkormat FT3, more rugged build than FM.My FM had a shutter defect ,didn't open complete at 1/500 and above, ok after about 10 years, which could only be repaired by a complete exchange, at least this was what they told me at Nikon .And it was the last shutter they hold on stock back then , about '94.The FT3, boughtb used, still works .
I've got an F3AF and I'm planning on using a TC-16 1.6x teleconverter to autofocus a 20mm f2.8D essentially turning it into a 40mm f4.48. How well do you think this set up will perform?
None of my 4x5 cameras have exposure meter and obviously no exposure lock button, I'm Ok with it. Nikon F3 is a fine camera, tested and proven by many pro for decades. You just have to learn how to use your equipment. You can place any button or switches anywhere you like on the modern day electronic digital cameras because it's done by wire, F3 is still with many mechanical components that limit the positioning of the dials and buttons. It is ridiculous to compare 1980 camera with modern day camera that are 40 years apart.
Poor implementation of the AE lock button, on an otherwise great camera body. Not sure whether the technology existed at the time (at least during the first 10 years or so of the F3's run), but it should have been a toggle switch.......press one time to lock.......press again to unlock.
I have a couple of F3's but regrettably one of them can only be used as a manual camera with no "A" or Meter, on my other one with the MD4 drive the button to disengage the film for rewinding fell off. Give me the Nikon FE any day.
I’ve got two of these beauties and I love them. My biggest complaint however is that I constantly loose the disc that goes between the camera body and the motor drive. The disc is required to make the camera body light tight when it’s being used without the drive. I’ve shot a few times in this situation by temporarily sealing the bottom of the camera with black tape. Then to make it more frustrating I find the disc on some day when I’m not shooting. Makes me feel stupid. Maybe that’s the problem! Thanks.
My thought exactly. There is a slot in the battery holder component of the motor drive. Slide it out and at one end is a slot just made for this. Cheers!
Brian, I’m becoming a huge fan of your channel- as an avid darkroom printer, and various photographer in all formats- your channel is great. I’m currently sitting on a chest freezer of ton film and paper. Hope the film apocalypse doesn’t happen. I do not own an F3, but I do own a Nikon FM3a. Didn’t realize the exposure lock was on the side of the lens mount. That would drive me insane, but I suppose working with it I would adjust. Hope to see more videos for you. Also, who’s downvoting?!
Apart from the minor shutter speed ring thing (which is still bothering a bit on a pro camera), the f3 has been my greatest disappointment in cameras purchases. I had very high expectations for this piece of camera history but I was so wrong. While I didn't mind the exp lock button position, I immediately thought the advance lever felt really cheap compared to a nikkormat el. Secondly the iso dial has to be raised and lowered delicately or it is going to hit the rfe everytime (it is made of glass and metal hitting glass ain't no good). I have also seen some f3 with a bent iso dial because somebody pressed it while wronly positioned. Furthermore the meter is very unpractical, the lcd of most f3s is now faded, in manual mode you just have a small almost unreadable + and - or both to understand correct exp, and in auto you see the speeds in whole stops (nikkormats el and fe have stepless needles). Finally I hated the 1/80th limit on the first 2 shots, so I tried multiple exp lever to overcome this problem and the advace shaft broke to pieces! Never use an me lever in any nikon on the first two frames while loading film! I sold it for parts and never bought it back. I have to say though that for the few rolls I shot with it, it felt really smooth and the finder was great, but I was so disappointed of the experience
Why do you want to lock your exposure? It makes no sense in manual mode. Just meter, set and forget. Anyways for manual shooting the F2 is a way more ergonomic camera than this weird F3.
You need to hold camera with your left hand. And with right you only use the fingers to hold the camera. Problem sorted. i.imgur.com/fNIUjzR.jpg i.imgur.com/t2cieu5.jpg
Virtually every “pro” or F3 experienced shooter I’ve ever seen in the past has used his left hand for the exposure lock button. I use the same method having learned this method from others. Focus first with the left hand then just drop the index finger on the lock button while supporting the camera with your palm. Then recompose and press the shutter button. No biggy. If you prefer the other method which you’re frustrated about, it might be easier to get the MD-4 motor drive which makes your method much easier to accomplish with your middle or ring finger of your tight hand pressing the lock button while firing the shutter with the index finger. Hope this helps.
What you mentioned is a workaround that experienced shooters adopted. But what is said here is true about the design. But as you said, people always finds a way. I also do the same with my F3/F4.
It never crossed my mind to do it this way! I'm so glad I read you post.
same here.
When I bought my F3 36 years ago, the first thing I did was sit on the couch in front of the TV and practiced over and over again. Over a weekend, it became second nature and I never had to think about it again.
I use my right index finger for the trigger button and the left middle finger for the exposure lock and if necessary left thumb and index finger to focus. Works fine
hi Brian
i have used an F3 in the past.
as others have said, i also used my left hand for exposure lock (while focusing)
having said that, it is a feature i rarely needed to use, even with Velvia 50.
A repair technician told me F3s are a joy to work on as they are so simple (and he was a Minolta specialist). The exposure lock is awkward and when the MD4 is attached almost impossible to use. I do not think Nikon ever intended it to be used as it was a pro spec press camera which was usually attached to a drive. As someone below has said the wind on is not a great feel. To enjoy the F3 to its full potential it really does need its drive attached.It becomes super smooth and a joy to hold. Trouble is though it now weighs a ton!
The F3 is my favourite pro spec 35mm SLR. I got mine over 15 years ago in good used condition for £150 and a MD4 for £50. Just needed the aperture feeler lubed for another £50. Super value and an awesome camera.
Use your left hand ( thumb and first finger) as always to cradle the lens. Then with center finger press the exposure lock button. Use right hand to hold camera and index finger to press shutter button. Simple !
Rather than “contact cement”, would a high grip double-sided tape work? It think it is more reversible so won’t damage the camera condition or value.
I thought you were going to say the horrible exposure comp dial, or the really loud shutter.
I’m stuck on this model because of its big beautiful HP viewfinder, amazing build, and good looks... but ergonomically it’s a pig, let’s be honest.
You push down instead of pulling up on the self timer on Minolta X series for Exposure Lock. It’s very simple.
I love the Nikon F3. I couldn’t afford it when it came out. It is a beautiful elegant camera. You are right about the placement of that button.
don't use contact cement or any glue as it will leak from sides use double-sided tape, cut the tape to the size of the rubber grip using razor and stick it to the rubber grip and then before sticking the rubber grip to the shutter dial add 2 drops of isopropyl alcohol to the sticky side of the rubber grip it will give you some time to adjust the position of the rubber grip till the alcohol evaporates so that it sits in right position, hope it helps,
Re shutter selector repair: A very thinned out coat of contact cement should work okay. (Because I already have some) I's look for a product called Pliobond, which seems to be a particular type/brand of cement used to reattach camera leather or leatherette. It's relative virtue is that it remains a bit tacky for a while, making adjustment or later removal more practical.
Interesting how the FE exposure lock is actually much better! I never really have trouble pushing the self timer lever in and holding it in. In fact, I use pre ai lenses in aperture priority by locking the exposure when using the depth of field preview, which looks goofy but isn't actually that hard. Maybe I have tiny hands.
You are right. I find the Same problem with F4 too for AE/AF lock. My hands are small and it barely reaches those buttons when shutter is half pressed.
They used contact cement back in the day to hold all of the leatherette covers on cameras. Though today as has been said double stick tape may be a better option.
I thought for sure this was going to address the lcd exposure meter readout in the viewfinder. Love the camera and HP finder is great for me, a glasses wearer, but give me some LEDs please! Great video, I liked the 'left hand for the exposure lock while cradling the lens' tip below. I will have to get mine out and try that!
I'm with you. I have been shooting with my beloved F3 since it came out but I never liked the location of it's exposure lock button. Like you, I switch to manual mode when necessary, even though it is not ideal. I don't miss the intermediate shutter speeds when shooting in manual mode; the fixed speeds are good enough. I think that the primary benefit of the electronic shutter is more accurate shutter timing. BTW, I really like the 80/20 heavily center-weighted exposure meter on the F3. I find that on my FM2 with 60/40, I often need to hold the camera at strange angles when metering to avoid bright backgrounds, etc., or else just compensate the exposure.
You can try 3M Double-Sided Tape to tape that part.
I wondered if you could comment on how the pro f3 compares to the consumer f301? Both have same shutter speeds, but the f301 has a better located exposure hold and built in auto film wind. What is your experience, is it worth to pay the extra expense to get a f3?
Your F3 looks like new.
It's a great camera to my mind...because really nothing gets in the way of taking photos, I'm much faster with an F3 than say an F or F2,
Valid point on the exposure lock button...they used to fall off in the early ones... As it's just a plastic prong. I'd post your question on the Facebook F3 groups about which glue to use.
I really like the F3. My digital camera is a Fuji X-H1 and the viewfinder is mega-huge compared to my FE and FM2. I had an F3 back in the 1990s and sold it, have regretted it ever since. Worth it for the viewfinder. I want another one, lots of them out there but they're pretty expensive unless road beaten. Prices really dependent on condition. Great local technician here wants $120 for a complete CLA and new seals provided no parts are needed. I agree with Brian on the metering...just meter the mid-tones and recompose, shoot. I like the 80/20 metering. I was usually able to nail exposures with Kodachrome (not forgiving) pretty consistently and I'm certainly no pro.
“I’ll do my best to my my next video more cheerful and optimistic” Next Video : My One Complaint Just teasing. I don’t have that problem since I use a external meter when shooting. Good info. Thanks for the video!
nice video, thanks. put one drop of super glue at one end of the stip. put the stip in place and let it dry. Then put another drop at the other end of the stip an secure it in place. That's how I would do it.
Interesting, I didn't know the centre weighted metering was so heavily weighted in the centre on the F3. One of the big reasons I chose the F4 over the F3 was because of the built in spot meter amongst few other things I liked on the 4. On the other hand it is very heavy and not exactly discrete so looking at a secondary smaller Nikon too like the FE/FM series to complement it whilst being able to use the same glass.
I would use Pliobond to replace that part as it holds well, but can be removed easily if needed. The super glues atr too runny and the contact cements too permanent, so no room for error. I managed a camera store for 16 yeats and have seen too many cameras ruined by the wrong glue. Good luck!
How do you compare the shooting experience to the f301 which uses the same shutter speeds and has better placed exposure hold and auto film advance.
IMHO you´re absolutely right, I have already experienced that difficulty when trying to use the exposure lock button on the F3; even the F4 has that button on front of it. It seems that by those years ergonomics wasn´t a very well established discipline yet.
The word "ergonomic" does not appear in my 1979 edition of the American Heritage Dictionary.
@@BriansPhotoShow yes, you're right. Although it's not exactly a neologism, it doesn't appear in many, more recently printed dictionaries. It's a highly specialized term and in a few words, ergonomics (from greek "ergon", meaning "work" and "nomoi", meaning "natural laws") is the science of refining the design of products to optimize them for human use.
Minolta did not have an exposure lock? Neither did the Pentax LX, an oversight on the part of the designers. I usually use manual with it anyway.
Hi Brian, love your videos.
I just picked up a beater f3, currently only firing on mechanical release, but I plan on getting it going again.
I wondered if you had any advice about lenses for it. I generally prefer the tessar to gauss designs, but I'm not sure if any affordable nikkor lenses used this design. I'm thinking maybe some of the earliest f mount lenses. Looking in the normal focal length range. Any ideas? Cheers!
To my knowledge, the only four-element Nikkor primes are the 45mm f/2.8, which I know absolutely nothing about, the Series E 100mm f/2.8, which I own and am quite fond of, the Pre-AI 135mm lenses, and the pre-AI 200mm lens. The Nikkor-Q 135/3.5 is a four-element Sonnar design, and sells for about the same as a 50mm f/2, thus making it one of the best Nikkor bargains available in my opinion. I'm quite happy with mine, though I believe Nikon's best 135 is the AI f/2.8. I'm not sure is the 45 or 100 are considered Tessar derivatives or not.
Brian's Photo Show thanks for your detailed reply, that gives me lots more to look into. Cheers ☺️
Well for the AEL it also on the F4....and the AFL right above. Really hard to press AE-L and AF-L together.....
The placement is not ideal, but practice makes perfect. I would try super glue on the shutter speed dial grip.
Might be easier to hold down the exposure lock button with the left hand, assuming that it's cradling the camera. My Canon A1 has the AE lock to the left of the lens mount where it's positioned for the left hand.
A camera review many hadn't done much is the Canon New F-1, the Nikon F3's competitor.
oh yes that's the camera I lusted over as a kid. not sure I want to get back into Canon FD
It's in the same place on my F4 but it seems easy to use, maybe the much larger grip means the ring finger places there naturally.
1) That lock button IS intended to be depressed with the pinky. Still awkward, but there you go...
2) For all those folks who hate that system / button, there's an Nikon FA, which have totally modern matrix way of metering.
As a matter in fact, to my knowledge, that camera was the very first camera EVER which mattered light in that fashion.
3) Minolta DID had exposure lock button, but on latter camera models like Minolta X300 or X700. And even than, it was done
in a weird way, combined with the button for the self-timer function.
Subbed, as a side note 😇
I don't own any Nikon gear right now, but I've spent a sizeable chunk of my career working with Nikon cameras, so I like to chat about them 😊
The FA was in fact the first Nikon with matrix metering, though at the time it was called "multi-pattern metering". It also may be the only auto-exposure Nikon without an exposure hold function. Apparently Nikon was so confident in the new metering system that they thought it obviated the need.
Shellac, dissolved in ethanol, is an easily removed adhesive. It is gentle on synthetic materials & is used to adhere rubber & silicone ink sacs to vintage fountain pens. You may wish to ask an art supplier. Art stores (back in the olden days when they were open to the public) sold adhesive gums for temporary masks. They can be readily picked off. The worry with contact cement is the presence of toluene & other solvents which could be injurious to whatever sort of plastic Nikon is using. It may be a bit small & fiddly on a shutter speed dial, but, I have replaced lost or degraded rubber grips on lenses with Turk's head knots finished with acrylic polymer. A 'before the mast' kind of old school! ;-)
P.S. For the Turk's head solution it helps to tie the knot (in the desired thickness of nylon twine) on an appropriately sized mandrel before slipping it into position, tightening & sealing. How badly do you dislike the camera?
Sounds like good advice but a bit above my head. I may have to relent and take it to my repair tech.
the lid on the "grip" part fell off of mine and apparetly it is factory glued
The viewfinder illumination button is poorly positioned and is difficult to use. That is my only real gripe about the F3.
Looking forward to seeing a review of the fm3a!
No problem. Can I borrow yours?
Brian's Photo Show id love too but I’ve never mailed anything in my life
I personally don't have a problem with the exposure lock. But if I did I would just use it on Manuel.
If you go to your local home improvement shop, they will advise you with an appropriate glue to do the job. On a tlr leatherette and on an olympus lens focusing ring I have used a glue that is for plastics in general, it has good holding properties but it is "weak" enough so that you can manage to detach the upper layer without damaging it should you decide to do so. Cheers
I have exactly the same complaining about this AEL button. Some times I just compensate in manual mode.
PS: if you have Nikon FM3A would love to hear your opinion about this slr.
The FM3a is one of the few SLRs that sells for more than an F3 in equivalent condition. Not sure if prices of the high-end premium models will come down much even in a tough economy, but I'll keep my eyes open.
This “problem “ is about exposure lock awkwardness and not intermediate shutter speeds. Using exposure lock is just that… holding an exposure, not dialing in intermediate speeds. But, yes, exposure lock is awkward and fortunately not a frequently used function. I struggle with ring finger dexterity also so use my pinkie finger instead.
Easy-peasy Brian...I thought at first that perhaps my exposure lock button was 'softer' than others but I tried my F3/t and it's exactly the same, so maybe yours could need a CLA?
The REAL challenge is using a pre-Ai lens....stopped down...off centre subject....in portrait mode, because then you need the ring finger holding down the exposure lock button, the middle finger holding down the DOF button (much more pressure needed) and the index finger on the shutter button, while holding the camera sideways.
But as someone once said....... "Sure if it was easy, then everyone would be doing it?"
Despite it's little quirks I still believe that the F3 is the best 35mm film camera ever made.
Use the other hand which is under the lens/ bottom of camera
Hi Brian, I don't own an F3 but I do own an F4 with the AE-L in the same place on the bottom. It sucks! A very valid complaint unless you have the Nikon finger extension! lol. I would use super glue GEL for the grip. I am guessing the rubber grip contracted a little so the ends won't meet. try warming it up a little if you have that issue also. the F5 AE-L is in perfect position for my chubby thumb. Good luck!
The things I don't like about the F3 is the electrics. You can also set the F2 between full stops apparently.
But as far as that rubber deal, my f3 is 40 years old and with the exception of the exposure lock button nothing has fallen off it.
Hmm! I hadn't even thought of it till now but it got trickier on F4 where you now had 3 buttons there, DOF new AF-L & AE-L bottom. I have small hands and still center + ring finger to work either or both. I'll pull out the F3 and try again but I do remember the overall ergonomics of F4 was so much more improved on design. But I have F3P+MD-4 so it will balance different. I tend to be gripping w/ my thumb & forefinger primarily.
For the rubber piece, if you haven't already fixed it, I would use super glue and an accelerator. Practice the placement a few times so you have it going right where you want it, then put a few small dabs of glue on the shutter dial, spray the accelerator on the rubber piece, and then put in place. You only need a very small amount of each, you might even want to apply the glue with a toothpick to make sure none squeezes out when applying the rubber strip. Should hold forever. Cheers!
What's an accelerator? When I go to the store, what do I look for?
@@BriansPhotoShow here is an example of what to look for (not used this brand personally, but should work) "Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack" - Amazon carries this and others. Sometimes called an accelerator, sometimes called an activator, or like here, Insta-set. The accelerator speeds up the cyanoacrylate glue, allowing it to set faster, usually in about 15 seconds or so, compared to the 30 seconds to several minutes without accelerator. (Works great for nasty cuts too, don't ask me how I know!)
Your're supposed to use your focusing finger on your left hand to depress the button.
I love this camera. My only issue with this camera is the flash sync speed. Way too slow for my kind of work.
When I need flash I always go to my F100.
Brian's Photo Show That’s a good call!
Same with F90, that button is so unconfortable placed....
I don’t tend to use this method as I usually take an exposure reading and then adjust the shutter speed manually and recompose but as long as you have battery and you are using aperture priority is it not possible to use the exposure lock function and then release the shutter using the secondary shutter release (tab thing?) ? It appears to be comfortable enough and that way your finger is already there and no need to stretch as per the method shown in this video? I know the secondary shutter release is locked at 1/80s when the camera is out of battery or switched off or during the first few frames before the frame counter reaches 1 but otherwise is the secondary shutter release not synched fully and functions just the same? , I could be wrong.
I believe the secondary shutter release is only for the mechanical 1/80 speed.
Mm after a little more research you appear to be right, it’s a shame they hadn’t thought of that. Would be a more comfortable workaround.
Hey Brian, I was wondering if you could address a problem I’m having with my newly bought, Excellent condition F3. Even with fresh batteries, I’m having an issue where the shutter simply won’t fire on any setting. The only way I can trip the shutter is by using the manual lever that’s paired with the exposure hold button you just discussed in this video. The manual shutter release lever. At that point, I can advance the film once, but then I’m back to a shutter that won’t fire. Really perplexed because the condition of this camera is great and the shutter and advance actions feel and sound perfect. Any suggestions?
I thought the shutter on my F3 was faulty as well when I first got it. Then I learned that when you load a roll of film, you must fire and advance three frames before the shutter returns to normal function. Why Nikon thought this was necessary for a professional camera is beyond me.
@@BriansPhotoShow thanks so much for replying - I got it working! Really appreciate your quick response. Have a great holiday and new year
I''m going to be far from the only one to say this BUT you cradle the camera and lens set up with your left hand, surely then there is/are a finger/s available on your left hand to use the exposure lock, or you just practice till it becomes second nature. Like most things in life it's a compromise
Same happened to me, and I put contact cement. Contact cement is fine, never use super glue.
I use waterproof wood glue for all of my covering issues (Titebond III Ultimate) or similar. Just put a thin coat on the two surfaces (no need to rush), put a rubber band(s) around the knob, clean up the excess with a Q-tip dipped in a tiny bit of water, leave overnight, and bingo! I've been using this method for years on many types of cameras...Shhhh don't tell anyone ;-)
It's my favourite camera but that is a valid complaint.
For a camera in such good condition I'd leave that repair to a proper technician, I'm sure a good one wouldn't charge more than a few dollars. Regarding the exposure lock button, I find it to be in a comfortable spot for me, but I'm also just as comfortable with the modern placement so I guess it just comes down to hand size and shape. I have a little sony rx100 iv I barely use because it's so bloody small I keep hitting the on/off button instead of the shutter.
yeah I might just take the darn thing to my repair tech when shops open back up
Lok Tite super glue, very small amount, then apply it to only part of the rubber strip so that you can hold that part for the required 20 seconds against the wheel, let it sit 24 hours. Apply more super glue to another segment of the rubber and repeat the process, perhaps 2 or 3 times until you have re-attached it all the way around the wheel. I think I would avoid using just any glue. I would use the super glue in very small amounts. Take care not to get your fingers stuck to it. It takes 24 hours to come to full strength. (I have used it to re-attach a canon 5d mirror (tiny drop in 4 corners, 20 seconds of moderate pressure, let sit 24 hours, el perfecto baaby!)
What's the difference between super glue and contact cement? Is there an ingredient to look for on the label or a particular brand which is best?
@@BriansPhotoShow cyanoacrylate or some variation of it seems to be the main ingredient. I saw a video where a guy did a pretty good test comparing brands of super glue, wish I could remember who it was. But he was pretty thorough, he did all kinds of stuff and took measurements and was reasonably good in being thorough. I had good luck with the locttite brand, but they all seem to be pretty similar.
I use my left hand on mine but I rarely use it. I prefer my F2 and sunny 16
Nikon never embraced technology in the way Canon did in the 1980s. There was a sense that professionals were only ever going to shoot manual, but they'd better include the latest thing to keep the accountants happy. Nikon had the professional service and hire market sewn up, and didn't have to try too hard on innovation. The build quality was always exceptional, and the F3 is no exception.
Nikon FM or F3?
And why?
The F3 cost 3 to 4 times the price of an FM when new. They weren't competing in the same market.
FA
Nikkormat FT3, more rugged build than FM.My FM had a shutter defect ,didn't open complete at 1/500 and above, ok after about 10 years, which could only be repaired by a complete exchange, at least this was what they told me at Nikon .And it was the last shutter they hold on stock back then , about '94.The FT3, boughtb used, still works .
I've got an F3AF and I'm planning on using a TC-16 1.6x teleconverter to autofocus a 20mm f2.8D essentially turning it into a 40mm f4.48. How well do you think this set up will perform?
I've never seen an F3AF. I thought they were only compatible with a limited set of dedicated lenses?
@@BriansPhotoShow the autofocus only works with 2 lenses and the tc-16 adapter
None of my 4x5 cameras have exposure meter and obviously no exposure lock button, I'm Ok with it. Nikon F3 is a fine camera, tested and proven by many pro for decades. You just have to learn how to use your equipment. You can place any button or switches anywhere you like on the modern day electronic digital cameras because it's done by wire, F3 is still with many mechanical components that limit the positioning of the dials and buttons. It is ridiculous to compare 1980 camera with modern day camera that are 40 years apart.
Use double sided tape, it's strong enough for that application
Poor implementation of the AE lock button, on an otherwise great camera body. Not sure whether the technology existed at the time (at least during the first 10 years or so of the F3's run), but it should have been a toggle switch.......press one time to lock.......press again to unlock.
I have a couple of F3's but regrettably one of them can only be used as a manual camera with no "A" or Meter, on my other one with the MD4 drive the button to disengage the film for rewinding fell off. Give me the Nikon FE any day.
I’ve got two of these beauties and I love them. My biggest complaint however is that I constantly loose the disc that goes between the camera body and the motor drive. The disc is required to make the camera body light tight when it’s being used without the drive. I’ve shot a few times in this situation by temporarily sealing the bottom of the camera with black tape. Then to make it more frustrating I find the disc on some day when I’m not shooting. Makes me feel stupid. Maybe that’s the problem! Thanks.
why don´t you use the disc holder on the motor drive to keep it ?
My thought exactly. There is a slot in the battery holder component of the motor drive. Slide it out and at one end is a slot just made for this. Cheers!
Brian, I’m becoming a huge fan of your channel- as an avid darkroom printer, and various photographer in all formats- your channel is great. I’m currently sitting on a chest freezer of ton film and paper. Hope the film apocalypse doesn’t happen.
I do not own an F3, but I do own a Nikon FM3a. Didn’t realize the exposure lock was on the side of the lens mount. That would drive me insane, but I suppose working with it I would adjust. Hope to see more videos for you.
Also, who’s downvoting?!
Thanks and glad to have you along!
Apart from the minor shutter speed ring thing (which is still bothering a bit on a pro camera), the f3 has been my greatest disappointment in cameras purchases. I had very high expectations for this piece of camera history but I was so wrong. While I didn't mind the exp lock button position, I immediately thought the advance lever felt really cheap compared to a nikkormat el. Secondly the iso dial has to be raised and lowered delicately or it is going to hit the rfe everytime (it is made of glass and metal hitting glass ain't no good). I have also seen some f3 with a bent iso dial because somebody pressed it while wronly positioned. Furthermore the meter is very unpractical, the lcd of most f3s is now faded, in manual mode you just have a small almost unreadable + and - or both to understand correct exp, and in auto you see the speeds in whole stops (nikkormats el and fe have stepless needles). Finally I hated the 1/80th limit on the first 2 shots, so I tried multiple exp lever to overcome this problem and the advace shaft broke to pieces! Never use an me lever in any nikon on the first two frames while loading film! I sold it for parts and never bought it back. I have to say though that for the few rolls I shot with it, it felt really smooth and the finder was great, but I was so disappointed of the experience
It could be climate that you are in. You have mentioned that tel aviv was very dry.
Can’t find a new flash is my complaint 😑 lol
Your ring finger is always your weakest finger.
Why do you want to lock your exposure? It makes no sense in manual mode. Just meter, set and forget. Anyways for manual shooting the F2 is a way more ergonomic camera than this weird F3.
He was trying to use aperture priority mode for the stepless shutter speed feature that offers.
Ron Hipwell The F2‘s shutter speeds are also stepless between 1/80 and 1/2000 sec (the green speeds).
Life is tough.
You need to hold camera with your left hand. And with right you only use the fingers to hold the camera. Problem sorted.
i.imgur.com/fNIUjzR.jpg i.imgur.com/t2cieu5.jpg
Mr Brian sometimes you just have to left hand.
I own an F, F2, and F4. I've never liked the F3. Yeesh.
Hey if you want a point and shoot camera, buy a point and shoot camera. Ugh.