If you don´t have those special sharpening stones that I use in the video, you can also use a round piece of wood (one more instance where dowels come in really handy!), wrap it in sandpaper (I would start with about 500 grit) and sharpen the irons this way. Paul Sellers did a good video on that: ruclips.net/video/NcuahhR-Weo/видео.html
The best ever advice on how to sharpen a blade I have ever seen, and believe me I have watched hundreds of video's on the subject. The process of stropping does not only remove an burr left, but also restores the molecules of the metal, providing a very sharp and durable edge.
Really enjoyed watching this series. I especially enjoyed seeing the moldings you cut at the end. And yes, much more enjoyable than using a noisy router!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have recently inherited a complete set of molding planes and will use this video series as a guide to making them work again.
I really enjoyed this series of videos about restoring molding planes to usable condition. It was very thorough and concise. I think you could really make something of this channel if you posted more videos about hand tools, hand tool woodworking, and making useful pieces using these tools. I hope to see more videos in the future.
Thanks a lot! I'm glad you liked the videos, but probably I won't do a lot more. Life is going in another direction for me right now, which is totally fine though.
Great series of videos. I particularly like the planes sitting on their profiles as a way of storing them with easy identification for further use. Thanks so much. Please continue with more woodworking videos. Regards Tony
Hey Tony, thank you very much for the kind words! Unfortunately, I don´t have any time in the next months, but hopefully next spring I´ll be able again to film some more videos. I have ideas on interesting topics.
Many good tips! Another good tip for moulding planes and other shallow planes (including router planes in some cases) that need to follow an edge or plane a groove: begin at the far end and move back the first few strokes until the edges of the shape is established. This makes it easier to start and it reduces the risk of wandering off. See Graham Blackburn and others.
The final image of the planes stored together on their respective profiles is so useful: explanatory, informative and very beautiful (if you like that kind thing). Thank you even though I doubt I'll ever be able to set mine up so effectively.
Tolle Arbeit! Eine andere Idee mit den Dübeln und Poliermittel: Man könnte einfach ein Profil hobeln, und das Poliermittel dann direkt dort, statt auf einen Dübel auftragen. Würde mich auf weitere Videos freuen, Gruss aus der Westschweiz!
It was just what I had at hand. Planing hardwood is not that much more difficult (as long as it's straight grain), you just have to take thinner shavings and do more passes. But yeah, I went the quick way here.
This is a great series of videos. I have been using a Stanley 45 plane for this and recently discovered what a bad too it is compared to a real moulding plane. I can get an old moulding plane for about 1/4 the price of the equivalent Stanley 45 cutter and your videos have been instrumental in getting them working properly. Also your tip about taking the corners off with a rebate plane solved a difficult problem I had getting the larger size beading planes (3/4 - 1") to work properly. Thanks.
Hello Paul, I enjoyed your videos very much. Ich bin eine anfanger student fur holzwerk. Fur mich ist eine hobbie fur ein pensioiert auf 74 jhar alt. Ich war ein musiker am Deutchland und Oestereich.
Thank you for making these videos! Moulding planes are more usefull than people think. I have recently started using them and find them often just as or even more usefull than my noisy and dirty router table! Keep up the good work!!
You are right, it´s a joy to use well-tuned hand tools! I´m sure I will make more videos, although right now I don´t have the time to do so. But they will come eventually.
Glad to see this up. Just in time. I was working with my molding planes this past weekend and reviewed the other videos and just waited for this one. I've seen the Paul Sellers one as well and together with yours it will set me going in the right direction. Thanks for posting this series.
Thanks a lot! Planing end grain always requires an extremely sharp blade and a precisely set iron. It is possible to plane end grain with complex profile planes (as an example, see this video ruclips.net/video/tdltvpl2Q3Q/видео.html by @Stavros Gakos at 33:50), but traditionally mouldings were made nearly exclusively in direction with the grain. However, I´ll see how my moulding planes work on end grain and let you know.
Thanks for another great video. The tips about using the rebate plane, using the mouldings to hold the planes were excellent. You are inspiring me to sharpen more of my moulding planes and put them to use. I would not of thought of using a Dremel style of tool for sharpening.
You´re welcome; glad you like the video! It´s beautiful to hear that these videos inspire you and other people to use their moulding planes. Have a nice time in the workshop!
A most excellent video, topping off a most outstanding video series! I sincerely hope your videos get the large audience they deserve, because they’re second to none (that I know of). Congratulations on a very worthwhile educational achievement.
Thanks for the wonderful and detailed guide. I have a question, what would you do if the the sole of the body was chipped and split? I have some beading planes that are in rough shape and don't really know what to do with them
You're welcome, glad you like it! I once repaired a plane with broken sole: I cut off the damaged part, glued in a new piece of the same wood (it's important to line up the grain!) and re-shaped the new piece to match the existing profile. It depends on the severity of the damage if this method works for you as well. You also could try to just glue the split back together, it may work. In any case, good luck with your repair!
Thank you so much! Haha, that was me without beard. I filmed all sequences of me talking back in December last year, but forgot these two sequences. Because at least one of them is very important, I decided to film it now, although I shaved in the meantime.
If you don´t have those special sharpening stones that I use in the video, you can also use a round piece of wood (one more instance where dowels come in really handy!), wrap it in sandpaper (I would start with about 500 grit) and sharpen the irons this way. Paul Sellers did a good video on that: ruclips.net/video/NcuahhR-Weo/видео.html
The best ever advice on how to sharpen a blade I have ever seen, and believe me I have watched hundreds of video's on the subject. The process of stropping does not only remove an burr left, but also restores the molecules of the metal, providing a very sharp and durable edge.
Thank you so much! I'm glad if my videos are helpful.
Really enjoyed watching this series. I especially enjoyed seeing the moldings you cut at the end. And yes, much more enjoyable than using a noisy router!
Another classic instructional video. Again thank you for your work. Now, as your apprentice, the work is on my shoulders.
Thank you for exerting so much effort to show an excellent method of restoring a wooden moulding plane.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have recently inherited a complete set of molding planes and will use this video series as a guide to making them work again.
@lotusphere6 I'm glad that you like it and good luck with your plane restoration project!
A wonderful and inspiring triptych tutorial👌 thx for posting👍
I really enjoyed this series of videos about restoring molding planes to usable condition. It was very thorough and concise. I think you could really make something of this channel if you posted more videos about hand tools, hand tool woodworking, and making useful pieces using these tools. I hope to see more videos in the future.
Thanks a lot! I'm glad you liked the videos, but probably I won't do a lot more. Life is going in another direction for me right now, which is totally fine though.
Great series of videos. I particularly like the planes sitting on their profiles as a way of storing them with easy identification for further use. Thanks so much. Please continue with more woodworking videos. Regards Tony
Hey Tony,
thank you very much for the kind words! Unfortunately, I don´t have any time in the next months, but hopefully next spring I´ll be able again to film some more videos. I have ideas on interesting topics.
A very satisfying resolution to the series.
Thanks, glad you like it!
A great series of videos. Thank you
Many good tips!
Another good tip for moulding planes and other shallow planes (including router planes in some cases) that need to follow an edge or plane a groove: begin at the far end and move back the first few strokes until the edges of the shape is established. This makes it easier to start and it reduces the risk of wandering off. See Graham Blackburn and others.
I watched all 3 thanks great job
An excellent and very comprehensive tutorial, best I've seen so far on YT. Thank you.
Thanks so much for the kind words! I really appreciate them!
The final image of the planes stored together on their respective profiles is so useful: explanatory, informative and very beautiful (if you like that kind thing). Thank you even though I doubt I'll ever be able to set mine up so effectively.
I never thought I could do this as well until I tried. Just go for it and take your time. Thank you for your positive feedback!
Very good, practical and clear. Excellent job and useful! Thank you so much!
Thank you, Peter, for the positive feedback!
Very cool series! Thanks!
Very informative! Love watching your videos here in the United States.
Tolle Arbeit!
Eine andere Idee mit den Dübeln und Poliermittel: Man könnte einfach ein Profil hobeln, und das Poliermittel dann direkt dort, statt auf einen Dübel auftragen.
Würde mich auf weitere Videos freuen, Gruss aus der Westschweiz!
@@BakerVS Danke für das Lob!
Wenn man einen passenden Hobel in benutzbarem Zustand hat, geht das natürlich auch.
Interesting to see that the stock you are working is a glue up. Working hardwood is so much more difficult.
It was just what I had at hand. Planing hardwood is not that much more difficult (as long as it's straight grain), you just have to take thinner shavings and do more passes. But yeah, I went the quick way here.
This is a great series of videos. I have been using a Stanley 45 plane for this and recently discovered what a bad too it is compared to a real moulding plane. I can get an old moulding plane for about 1/4 the price of the equivalent Stanley 45 cutter and your videos have been instrumental in getting them working properly. Also your tip about taking the corners off with a rebate plane solved a difficult problem I had getting the larger size beading planes (3/4 - 1") to work properly. Thanks.
Hello Paul, I enjoyed your videos very much. Ich bin eine anfanger student fur holzwerk. Fur mich ist eine hobbie fur ein pensioiert auf 74 jhar alt. Ich war ein musiker am Deutchland und Oestereich.
Thanks Paul for your kind words! Viel Spaß mit der Holzbearbeitung wünsche ich dir!
Thank you for making these videos! Moulding planes are more usefull than people think. I have recently started using them and find them often just as or even more usefull than my noisy and dirty router table! Keep up the good work!!
You are right, it´s a joy to use well-tuned hand tools!
I´m sure I will make more videos, although right now I don´t have the time to do so. But they will come eventually.
Great video!
Glad to see this up. Just in time. I was working with my molding planes this past weekend and reviewed the other videos and just waited for this one. I've seen the Paul Sellers one as well and together with yours it will set me going in the right direction. Thanks for posting this series.
So nice to hear that my videos help you. Thanks for your comment!
Your video is great just what I needed
Thanks Lynn! Always nice to know if someone can benefit from my videos.
I'm just starting out what plane do I look for these are for To be used thanks
Lovely series of videos, but please could you either tell me or do another video on planing end grain with these planes, thanks
Thanks a lot!
Planing end grain always requires an extremely sharp blade and a precisely set iron. It is possible to plane end grain with complex profile planes (as an example, see this video ruclips.net/video/tdltvpl2Q3Q/видео.html by @Stavros Gakos at 33:50), but traditionally mouldings were made nearly exclusively in direction with the grain.
However, I´ll see how my moulding planes work on end grain and let you know.
Thanks for another great video. The tips about using the rebate plane, using the mouldings to hold the planes were excellent. You are inspiring me to sharpen more of my moulding planes and put them to use. I would not of thought of using a Dremel style of tool for sharpening.
You´re welcome; glad you like the video! It´s beautiful to hear that these videos inspire you and other people to use their moulding planes. Have a nice time in the workshop!
A most excellent video, topping off a most outstanding video series! I sincerely hope your videos get the large audience they deserve, because they’re second to none (that I know of). Congratulations on a very worthwhile educational achievement.
Thank you Russ, this is so nice of you!
Thanks for the wonderful and detailed guide. I have a question, what would you do if the the sole of the body was chipped and split? I have some beading planes that are in rough shape and don't really know what to do with them
You're welcome, glad you like it!
I once repaired a plane with broken sole: I cut off the damaged part, glued in a new piece of the same wood (it's important to line up the grain!) and re-shaped the new piece to match the existing profile. It depends on the severity of the damage if this method works for you as well. You also could try to just glue the split back together, it may work. In any case, good luck with your repair!
Excellent videos, and you included your younger brother too. or was that just you without a beard?.
Best Moulding Plane video's on RUclips. Well done.
Thank you so much!
Haha, that was me without beard. I filmed all sequences of me talking back in December last year, but forgot these two sequences. Because at least one of them is very important, I decided to film it now, although I shaved in the meantime.
@@pjtfurniture Great Work.
Why did you stop making videos great information and cool stuff
Thank you! My life has changed a bit, so I had little to no time for woodworking, but I want to make some more videos in the future.
@@pjtfurniture ah hope all is well lad, look forward to it.
Very clever, thank you
Cool 👍
What is the fabric underneath the waterstones? Is it shelf liner?
It´s an anti slip mat normally used under carpets. I use it due to its water resistance and it prevents the stones from slipping all over the table.
18:40 why is there another piece glued to the end of the board instead of sticking the molding on the end of the board directly? Adding width?
@@devinteske Eagle eye! There is no other reason to it than that the wood I used was an old laminated shelf board.
14:20 is that your younger brother? Or did you shave?
@devinteske I shaved :)
Great series of videos, Thank you!