Well done, to the point, DIY videos sometimes can be 14 minutes when they could just be 3. This one hits the mark, you did a great job illustrating how to within just a few minutes.
Excellent Video. This sort of thing drove me crazy for a number of years because I am a DIY sort of construction novice. To aid in my education I finally went back to high school math to fully understand this. First off, the 3.5" length to be cut out along the 2 x 4 is the hypothenuse or 'c' side of the right triangle you are making. The part of the cut that is the depth of the cut is the 'a' side of the cut. The part that is the straight edge (90 degrees) along the 2 x 4 is the 'b' side of the cut. In other words the speed square is doing nothing more than creating right triangles that are mathematically connected directly to the Pythagorean theorem. The fancy calculators one can buy do nothing more than integrate the various options possible based on what you know, but that does not always mean people like me actually understand what the program is doing. If your mind has the wrong orientation it is possible to make time-consuming mistakes. By watching some other great videos on sine, cosine, and tangent you can come within 1/100ths of what the actual depth of the seat cut should be. Of course, the speed square and the human cannot possibly do that. However, If confusion prevails the math can tell you precisely how to reorient your mind. With some humor I have to laugh that we are told 4/12 is 18.43 degrees.... who could ever match that? But, if you choose to play around with 3.5" and 18.43 degrees you can see what I am discussing here. .... Just remember that the hypothenuse is the part that sits on the 3.5" part of the wall if using 2 x 4s. I greatly enjoyed this video. I watched it, and then did the math. Try it.
Probably the best explanation I've seen so far! Thanks. I'm putting up a patio roof with minimal pitch 1.5 : 12. It is a common pitch, wish the blue square had 1.5 marked. So unfortunately some eyeballing involved. The Heel & Seat cut is also dependent on the rafter / ledger end is 90 degrees. I had to offset my end 5 degrees so had to adjust cuts by 5 degrees.
How do you find out the length needed for the rafter? Say my building is 10’ wide, and I want a 1’ overhang, how do I measure where the heel cut is going to be and the angles for the end cut, and the cuts where left and right side would meet at the peak?
Any advice on how to cut a birdsmouth on an angled beam for a pergola? Trying to brainstorm before we tackle it this week. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Here's a question could you not make your first bird mouth notch then set that onto your two-by-fours and have somebody Mark out where the rest of the two-by-fours are going to the land as long as you have it squared and leveled as you're holding it? Probably a lot harder said than done but I am just learning about Roost and other carpentry stuff so I'm just curious
@@myself1769 No, it won't work quite right with that approach because there is still an angular distance to travel downward to account for the cutout on the lower end of the rafter. Try it to see with some scrap boards. You'll end up with an 1/8th inch gap or so on the inner heel. It can be incredibly frustrating if you try to do this eyeballing it or rough cutting it. Use the Pythagorean theorem from inner-most heel to inner-most heel as the hypotenuse. From there you can compute the distance between the two heel cuts using the law of sines and mark your boards. The speed square will take over from there. Draw your cut line for the heel and then 90deg to the edge of the board for the seat. This description would work better with a video.
Why is the depth of the birdsmouth limited to 1/4 the thickness of the rafter? I got a 12/12 roof with a 2 x 8 rafter and 2 x 6 wall and to me it makes sense to have more surface area on the top plate. Some say this 1/4 rule is to prevent there being a "weak point" with tension splitting the wood but I dont see how there is a weak point.
But how do you know where on the rafter to place the cut? I tried marking the seat with the rafter resting on the plate and it ended up way off because the birdsmouth changes the position of everything by dropping the rafter down lower.
I was taught the depth of the birds mouth ( which obviously affects the length of the seat cut ) should be a third of the width of the rafter. So 3x2 should be a 1” bird’s mouth, 6x2 a 2” bird’s mouth.
@@outdoorlife9410 IRC R502.8.1 states "Notches at the ends of the member shall not exceed one-fourth the depth of the member." Also cuts cannot be in the middle 1/3 of the board.
Anyone have any suggestions? My measurements from the top of the ridge to the bottom plate is 45 3/4 some how I keep cutting them too deep and too short? I’ve tried on like 8 boards still can’t get it right?
Same here. I marked it out with the rafter placed on the plates and it was perfect, then after cutting the birdsmouth it's way off due to the change in position it creates. Don't understand how to compensate for that.
@@MarionRelics I looked up the formula for making the cut, which compensates for the change in position, but it still wasn't quite right. But WAY easier than calculating & cutting stair stringers. I cursed a lot at that.
@@tommyv5435 Seems like there shouldn’t be “formulas” involved in basic roof framing! Were the pioneers really out there doing trigonometry when they built their sheds and shithouses??
Easier way, its the remainder you need to make 90 degrees if paired with your ridge cut. So if your ridge is 55 degrees your seat needs to be 35 degrees for the part this the sitting on the wall.
Buy a construction master calculator and learn how to use it. The best thing about roof cutting is everything is based on math. If it don’t fit you have other problems
Sir I just want to say that I think your an absolute legend! Thank you so much this has helped me a ton!
Thank you. Clearest video out of loads I've watched and now I can actually do this thing!
Well done, to the point, DIY videos sometimes can be 14 minutes when they could just be 3. This one hits the mark, you did a great job illustrating how to within just a few minutes.
Thanks! That is exactly the problem I was trying to solve.
Do you have classes you teach because I am interested
@@donaldwong2801 Nothing formal, I am just a hobbyist, not a professional. But feel free to make subject suggestions.
@@donaldwong2801 qa
You are right-I often won't even watch one if it is so long.
Thank you, this is exactly what's needed. Direct, concise and easy to follow 🤙💪
Love this, thank you. Enjoyed sharing with buddy that was having as hard of a time as me on speed square use on birdsmouth cuts!
Something that I absolutely struggled with for years. Thanks for the knowledge, it's much appreciated man.
Thank you, your video is very professional and informative and free of all the BS normally found in these videos. Well Done!
What an awesome and straight to the point video. Loved it. Thank you so much for making this!
Small hands
Excellent video! Clear and concise explanation with ALL the necessary information! Thanks!
best rafter guide ever
Dude
Thanks! Your visual aid made it clear. I’m a novice and as you said. It helped me wrap my head around your video!!! Thanks
You explained it so easy to understand. Thank you.
Excellent, simple and to the point.
Very well done! Thank you for simplifying the seat and heel cut measurements.
Awesome
your speed square is wrong. You have the wrong angle going the wrong way on your speed square. It is not Plumb with the wall.
Excellent Video. This sort of thing drove me crazy for a number of years because I am a DIY sort of construction novice. To aid in my education I finally went back to high school math to fully understand this. First off, the 3.5" length to be cut out along the 2 x 4 is the hypothenuse or 'c' side of the right triangle you are making. The part of the cut that is the depth of the cut is the 'a' side of the cut. The part that is the straight edge (90 degrees) along the 2 x 4 is the 'b' side of the cut. In other words the speed square is doing nothing more than creating right triangles that are mathematically connected directly to the Pythagorean theorem. The fancy calculators one can buy do nothing more than integrate the various options possible based on what you know, but that does not always mean people like me actually understand what the program is doing. If your mind has the wrong orientation it is possible to make time-consuming mistakes. By watching some other great videos on sine, cosine, and tangent you can come within 1/100ths of what the actual depth of the seat cut should be. Of course, the speed square and the human cannot possibly do that. However, If confusion prevails the math can tell you precisely how to reorient your mind. With some humor I have to laugh that we are told 4/12 is 18.43 degrees.... who could ever match that? But, if you choose to play around with 3.5" and 18.43 degrees you can see what I am discussing here. .... Just remember that the hypothenuse is the part that sits on the 3.5" part of the wall if using 2 x 4s.
I greatly enjoyed this video. I watched it, and then did the math. Try it.
Jaw dropping
Probably the best explanation I've seen so far! Thanks.
I'm putting up a patio roof with minimal pitch 1.5 : 12.
It is a common pitch, wish the blue square had 1.5 marked. So unfortunately some eyeballing involved.
The Heel & Seat cut is also dependent on the rafter / ledger end is 90 degrees. I had to offset my end 5 degrees so had to adjust cuts by 5 degrees.
Thank you. Appreciate the detail and short video!!
Exactly what I needed! Thanks!
Super useful and to the point. Thanks!
Just what I needed. Thanks!
Great job. Some people make the same thing super complicated unnecessarily it seems.
As someone who raking doesn't understand geometry... Thank you so much!!
Very clearly laid out ty
This helped a lot, thank you.
Thank you ! Fantastic video !
Learn every day .
Excellent Video!
This video is money! Thanks for the tip.
Outstanding
Very easy to understand ,thankyou
Great video!
The line that goes through your 80° and 5” can be lined up with your original angle to give you your seat cut.
thank you. great video!
Well done. Thank you.
Right to the Point - Thanks!
the standard length for the seat cut is 3/5th dimension of the rafter. To avoid it being too deep but still giving it stability.
Good man. Thank you!
Simple, short and straightforward. Plus, now I know another use for the rafting square.
Perfect! Thanks
Question....1:53 mark.
When you marked it with the framing square, could you just use the inside of the square to make your cut marks?
Care to share that angle slide with the degree calculations? Thanks!
very good
How do you find out the length needed for the rafter? Say my building is 10’ wide, and I want a 1’ overhang, how do I measure where the heel cut is going to be and the angles for the end cut, and the cuts where left and right side would meet at the peak?
Good day please tell me where did you get Swanson speed spare to buy thank you
You can also get your opposing angle for instance 4/12 is a 22.5 line then square off of that to get 67.5 to land your seat cut
That awkward moment when you can teach the guy who made the video a few things.
22.5. Is a 5/12
Thanks
Any advice on how to cut a birdsmouth on an angled beam for a pergola? Trying to brainstorm before we tackle it this week. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
How'd you do it
The difficulty is in making two birdsmouth joints on the same board and getting the distances correct between them so they sit perfectly with no gaps.
Here's a question could you not make your first bird mouth notch then set that onto your two-by-fours and have somebody Mark out where the rest of the two-by-fours are going to the land as long as you have it squared and leveled as you're holding it? Probably a lot harder said than done but I am just learning about Roost and other carpentry stuff so I'm just curious
@@myself1769 No, it won't work quite right with that approach because there is still an angular distance to travel downward to account for the cutout on the lower end of the rafter. Try it to see with some scrap boards. You'll end up with an 1/8th inch gap or so on the inner heel. It can be incredibly frustrating if you try to do this eyeballing it or rough cutting it.
Use the Pythagorean theorem from inner-most heel to inner-most heel as the hypotenuse. From there you can compute the distance between the two heel cuts using the law of sines and mark your boards. The speed square will take over from there. Draw your cut line for the heel and then 90deg to the edge of the board for the seat. This description would work better with a video.
One love 🙏
Why is the depth of the birdsmouth limited to 1/4 the thickness of the rafter? I got a 12/12 roof with a 2 x 8 rafter and 2 x 6 wall and to me it makes sense to have more surface area on the top plate. Some say this 1/4 rule is to prevent there being a "weak point" with tension splitting the wood but I dont see how there is a weak point.
But how do you know where on the rafter to place the cut? I tried marking the seat with the rafter resting on the plate and it ended up way off because the birdsmouth changes the position of everything by dropping the rafter down lower.
Can you use the same method for 2x6 top plate
I was taught the depth of the birds mouth ( which obviously affects the length of the seat cut ) should be a third of the width of the rafter. So 3x2 should be a 1” bird’s mouth, 6x2 a 2” bird’s mouth.
Birds got a square mouth
1/4
No more than 1/3 your board length
@@outdoorlife9410 IRC R502.8.1 states "Notches at the ends of the member shall not exceed one-fourth the depth of the member." Also cuts cannot be in the middle 1/3 of the board.
Anyone have any suggestions? My measurements from the top of the ridge to the bottom plate is 45 3/4 some how I keep cutting them too deep and too short? I’ve tried on like 8 boards still can’t get it right?
had to slap the like button
What a Pratt
Understanding the angle of the cut is great, but WHERE along the length do I make the birdsmouth cut??? This is what I'm not getting.
Same here. I marked it out with the rafter placed on the plates and it was perfect, then after cutting the birdsmouth it's way off due to the change in position it creates. Don't understand how to compensate for that.
@@MarionRelics I looked up the formula for making the cut, which compensates for the change in position, but it still wasn't quite right. But WAY easier than calculating & cutting stair stringers. I cursed a lot at that.
@@tommyv5435 Seems like there shouldn’t be “formulas” involved in basic roof framing! Were the pioneers really out there doing trigonometry when they built their sheds and shithouses??
@@MarionRelics definitely shouldn't be.
Awesome video straight to the point and illustrated extremely well! A like and subscribe from me.
👍😀
That was very good but a little fast. 😊
How to measure the position of the birds mouth?
Easier way, its the remainder you need to make 90 degrees if paired with your ridge cut. So if your ridge is 55 degrees your seat needs to be 35 degrees for the part this the sitting on the wall.
No one ever shows the cut on the peak
Buy a construction master calculator and learn how to use it. The best thing about roof cutting is everything is based on math. If it don’t fit you have other problems
Thats not how you use the diamond!!
Can you do it in English please haha
In the metric world we simply use degrees as 12 does not mean anything, as we dont use feet. Stopped watching and found another non obsolete video.
Somebody’s mad.
Don’t become a teacher dude .. awful explanation for a non roofer .. I’ve moved on through you tube to find better explanation
Mean
Thanks