Spray Max is a good blender. I like the directional spraying idea. I'm sure it helps to make that edge finer and easier to burn in. Because I have a short memory, I like to mark on the tape where each coat should end. Rock on!
My mentor did teach me to do clear blending basicly this same way but instead of using spray blender i was teached to use blending thinner and minigun. If you make 50/50 mixture of clear and blending thinner and do your first blend with that mixture and final blend with 100% blending thinner you get bit better final result. Ofcource it needs bit more room and is more laborious to do but final result may look better and sometimes you dont even have to polish it. Im not saying that its the only right way... and way you did it will look fine after some polishing and I bet its gonna be this car owner or anyone else so hard to find that blending area especially if he/she dont know where to search it. Anyway I love your videos!
Yo uso el “uniform Blending” de la botella de lata PPG. En mi opinión es mejor que cualquier spray can, no hay necesidad de pulir luego, queda perfectamente bien.
I have learned a long time ago to double the amount of room I think I need. Like you said the more room the better. I use ppg dx840 blender. Reduce the psi and it blends supper nice. If buffing is needed I will trizack with 3000 wet in tr he blend area then use machine polish making sure the rotation of the buffing pad is rotating away from the blend. Not into it. I do not a prove of clearcoat blends but when the boss tells me to. Well he is the boss.
Hey Gabe your videos have been helping me alot at the shop. Had a question the walcome regulators do they work with any brand gun. Will the reads be acurate?
Nice job Gabe 👍🏾 In Az we pull a full trigger starting at the end of the blend. I don’t feather it out or it will brake down in our intense 🌞 give it a try it works great. When a paint rep showed me I thought it probably wouldn’t work, but it works Awesome. No comebacks
Jacob Amor start we’re you would normally end your blend. Have your gun facing straight at your panel, then pull a full triggered and then spray down your a pillar. Then I sometimes spray a little blender on the end of the blend. But usually it’s fine without blender. I have never had a break down in Az doing this. Painting 32 years in az.
Nick Sandoval seems like you'd have a pile up of clear or run if you pointed straight at the panel with a full trigger then move down away from where the blend ended
I know it sounds crazy, but a rep showed me many years ago and I’ve done it sense with no problems. It might take a couple times to get a hang of it. Give it try !
Gabe, I use that blender also. Do you shake the can? There is no rattle in it so I don't know if shaking helps. I ask because the last 2 jobs I did the spray max blew out some large drops that ruined the finish. Any ideas as to what I did wrong is appreciated.
Hey Gabe! Great video as always. I've heard very mixed reports on how long this holds up. Some people I know did this and 4 years later it is still going strong, others not so much. Honestly, given daily wear and tear is hard on vehicle paint, how long would this last, and how does it fare compared to a 'warrantable' full reclear? If this method lasts at least 3 years, it seems like a no brainer given how cheap and easy it is relative to detrimming and doing a full repaint.
It's always better to do full clear of course!! But not everyone has that option in this diverse industry. I haven't seen one come back so I wouldn't know excatcly how long it will last
Hi Gabriel, is it ok to slightly spray blender on non sanded area where the factory clear coat is (just after 5000grit)? I thought if you spray on shiny clear coat it will start to peel really quick but on video you kinda spray on non sanded area to make the blend perfect. Thanks.
Thanks Gabe for this video! I know it's always advisable to do a full clear after repair, but I own a Porsche that has no break on the body (minus the doors & hood). I obviously do not want to skimp out on the repair so in your honest opinion, would you still advise a customer to do a full clear even if you have to scuff basically the entire shell?
Unfortunately yes the best way would be to clear out everything that doesn't cut. You could do a blend but risk the sun beating it up and showing up months later
Probably a stupid question but oh well, when you said 5000, you meant you wet sanded the base coat and then sprayed the clear? Just making sure I understood correctly
No stupid question! No sanding after basing I finished with 5000 where I was gonna blend since the blended is very thin it will grab to those tiny scratches
gabe please help... i got a reaction to an area i blended a few weeks ago. i had to add color to an area i didnt put enough, did my clear and the clear looks like oil where the previous blend spray max landed. the area with new dusting of paint did not. was i supposed to use like 1000 grit and sand all the previous blend off then top with color and reclear and re blend??
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS thanks a lot Gabe, we thought right away not sanding the previous blender area might have caused the new top coat of clear to have a reaction, i mean it happened right away withing seconds. is sanding and top coating with color the trick or just sanding down the prev blender the trick to not have this reaction?
Hey Gabe, Where you hit that with the spray max blender , mine comes out rough. Then i go to polish it, not compound but finishing polish and it still breaks and you can see the where it does.
I would say you are getting to much base overspray on the blend so then it can't polish i would try to do a low in and give yourself alot alot alot of room if you can so that blender is landing strictly on clear and clear and not basecoat over spray
Trey, we’re the end of your blend would normally end, start there. With your gun pointed straight pull the trigger a full pull and then go down instead of up. This way the clear isn’t thin it has mills of clear at the end of the blend. Then I spray a little blender on that . You would think it would be real thick and visible, but it isn’t. It’s kinda like starting your primer out far on the first coat . I hope this helps
hi gabe have you painted mercedes 755 tenolite grey? if so which shade did you use ie prime etc got to paint one mon and there is about 8 different shades to chose from? thought might give me a shade to start with?
So...do you spray the new clear over top of the old clear (few inch overlap) then use the blender in that overlap area? Or do you spray the new clear right up to the old clear...then use the blender at the joint of old and new clear? Gonna tackle a project myself real soon
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS sorry if it was a stupid question. Haha. I've very handy...but never done and paint on a car. I have all the materials I just wanna make sure I do it 100% right. Thanks man. And I'm also using all aerosol cans. No spray guns
MOTIVATED PAINTERS Well the reason I ask is cause I painted my girlfriends bumper(blend repair) first time ever painting anything automotive with spray cans and didn’t have a transition at all. I can’t even tell where I blended it. I just did the rear bumper last week and man the blend is so noticeable so I am going to redo it with the Fx3000 I ordered and was wondering what blender to use? Would the spray max 1k be fine for acrylic lacquer clear coat or even a 2 part urethane clear? Not sure what clear to use yet as I need advice or to do some research as I’m new to this. Thanks so much for you’re help and all you’re fast reply’s!
MOTIVATED PAINTERS thank you for the reply, but my question is; is the clear blender sprayed past the sanded area landing on un sanded clear or everything is done on a sanded surface?
It seems that if this is properly done, it will last as long as a full reclear. But most seem prejudiced against the method, as I suspect most people don't do it properly and the new clear fade out doesn't bond with the old clear, causing failure.
Because many body shops, even the best ones, permanently damage trim when they go to paint something. I know of a few people who've done this and it has held up after 4 years of daily driving. If it lasts that long, I'd say its a no brainer. Have you experienced otherwise?
Hmmmm....I have an AC Cobra and the body work consists of a boot(trunk) a bonnet and the rest of the body is one single piece, so any work on the actual body would require the entire body to be clear coated?? So in some cases there might be no option but to do it this way?
It'so bad, u are literally blending on glance surface. All those blends are showing up or even starting to peel off, 3000, 4000 and 5000 grid is not for the adhesive sanding! Please try doing it correctly, 1000-1500 on 3mm machine, after painting lightly touch it with 3000, and polish. U will save the grain, u will have real adhesion on blend, and this blend will never show up after time, it's permanent. Obviously u r using agressive solvent for blend, but this is a product to avoid as well, at least between people which i know. Never gonna forget when on 8030 spiec hecker clearcoat, if they own agressive blender did fall on the main painted surface - it will leave holes so deep, almost to the base. On perfectly sprayed 1,5 layer coating. There is absolutely no need to treat factory and new clearcoat with scetchy agressive liguid.
I cant believe this guy explained in 2 Minutes what I have been searching for hours on other videos
Nice work, i do the spray opposite direction too when i blend mostly for the clear. Thanks for sharing .
sure beats Spraying that whole quarter extension. Very helpful information Gabriel ,Give Thanks.
Blessed !!!
Awesome Trey! Glad I could help 😊
Really good tip. That blend job will look perfect when it drys. Maybe just a little polish and it is invisible. Thanks and take care.
Love you man. It helps me much !!! I`m going to work
Spray Max is a good blender. I like the directional spraying idea. I'm sure it helps to make that edge finer and easier to burn in.
Because I have a short memory, I like to mark on the tape where each coat should end.
Rock on!
That's a good idea haa
Nice work, now I know how that blender product is used as well. thanks
Muchas gracias Gabriel!!! Yo lijaba la zona del blending con 3000. Voy a probar con 5000. Grande!!!!
My mentor did teach me to do clear blending basicly this same way but instead of using spray blender i was teached to use blending thinner and minigun. If you make 50/50 mixture of clear and blending thinner and do your first blend with that mixture and final blend with 100% blending thinner you get bit better final result. Ofcource it needs bit more room and is more laborious to do but final result may look better and sometimes you dont even have to polish it. Im not saying that its the only right way... and way you did it will look fine after some polishing and I bet its gonna be this car owner or anyone else so hard to find that blending area especially if he/she dont know where to search it. Anyway I love your videos!
Yes maxx is the best also I have used bebier it's good when Maxx is not available lov.your videos and your great attitude. (Off the panel)
Yo uso el “uniform Blending” de la botella de lata PPG. En mi opinión es mejor que cualquier spray can, no hay necesidad de pulir luego, queda perfectamente bien.
I have learned a long time ago to double the amount of room I think I need. Like you said the more room the better. I use ppg dx840 blender. Reduce the psi and it blends supper nice. If buffing is needed I will trizack with 3000 wet in tr he blend area then use machine polish making sure the rotation of the buffing pad is rotating away from the blend. Not into it. I do not a prove of clearcoat blends but when the boss tells me to. Well he is the boss.
Well said hahaha I'm the same way
Fantastic video❤❤❤
Hey Gabe your videos have been helping me alot at the shop. Had a question the walcome regulators do they work with any brand gun. Will the reads be acurate?
Awesome. Thank you.
Nice job Gabe 👍🏾
In Az we pull a full trigger starting at the end of the blend. I don’t feather it out or it will brake down in our intense 🌞 give it a try it works great. When a paint rep showed me I thought it probably wouldn’t work, but it works Awesome. No comebacks
Nick Sandoval Can u explain that a little more?
Could you expand on this? I am curious.
Jacob Amor start we’re you would normally end your blend. Have your gun facing straight at your panel, then pull a full triggered and then spray down your a pillar. Then I sometimes spray a little blender on the end of the blend. But usually it’s fine without blender. I have never had a break down in Az doing this. Painting 32 years in az.
Nick Sandoval seems like you'd have a pile up of clear or run if you pointed straight at the panel with a full trigger then move down away from where the blend ended
I know it sounds crazy, but a rep showed me many years ago and I’ve done it sense with no problems. It might take a couple times to get a hang of it. Give it try !
One of the most fast/quick and easy on how to blend love it thank you. So let's say you use 4000grit do you still need to polish
Depends if you can blend it perfect
Perfect gabe personaly i would not use a spray can to little control i prefer a spraygun but each their own 😉
Thanks man I have gotten used to it and I love the results 😀
From an old painter thank you for teaching the young guns
Much love!!!
Gabe, I use that blender also. Do you shake the can? There is no rattle in it so I don't know if shaking helps. I ask because the last 2 jobs I did the spray max blew out some large drops that ruined the finish. Any ideas as to what I did wrong is appreciated.
Hey Gabe! Great video as always. I've heard very mixed reports on how long this holds up. Some people I know did this and 4 years later it is still going strong, others not so much. Honestly, given daily wear and tear is hard on vehicle paint, how long would this last, and how does it fare compared to a 'warrantable' full reclear? If this method lasts at least 3 years, it seems like a no brainer given how cheap and easy it is relative to detrimming and doing a full repaint.
It's always better to do full clear of course!! But not everyone has that option in this diverse industry. I haven't seen one come back so I wouldn't know excatcly how long it will last
Nice job Gabe. Does the spray max blender have built in UV protection like some of the other blenders do?
I believe it doesn't but I could be wrong .
So beyond the blender it's just finely sanded and you would polish it out? Wondering for a bigger panel then this.
So if have to sand and buff how does it come out any info about that ?
Godd job😍✌️
Hi Gabriel, is it ok to slightly spray blender on non sanded area where the factory clear coat is (just after 5000grit)? I thought if you spray on shiny clear coat it will start to peel really quick but on video you kinda spray on non sanded area to make the blend perfect. Thanks.
The blender is extremely thin so it sinks into the 5000 scratches
@GABRIEL, do you color sand your blended areas or just cut and polish or just polish with perfectit?
Very soft 3000 if needed then polish with white pad and black pad
Thanks Gabe for this video! I know it's always advisable to do a full clear after repair, but I own a Porsche that has no break on the body (minus the doors & hood). I obviously do not want to skimp out on the repair so in your honest opinion, would you still advise a customer to do a full clear even if you have to scuff basically the entire shell?
Unfortunately yes the best way would be to clear out everything that doesn't cut. You could do a blend but risk the sun beating it up and showing up months later
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS got it. thank you. I guess uv is our worst enemy here then?
Hi Gabriel
Is it true clearing a spot on a car will peel off in a couple of years?
Do you use the blender right after spraying the clear?
Probably a stupid question but oh well, when you said 5000, you meant you wet sanded the base coat and then sprayed the clear? Just making sure I understood correctly
No stupid question! No sanding after basing I finished with 5000 where I was gonna blend since the blended is very thin it will grab to those tiny scratches
gabe please help... i got a reaction to an area i blended a few weeks ago. i had to add color to an area i didnt put enough, did my clear and the clear looks like oil where the previous blend spray max landed. the area with new dusting of paint did not. was i supposed to use like 1000 grit and sand all the previous blend off then top with color and reclear and re blend??
Yeah and go further with clear that the first time
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS thanks a lot Gabe, we thought right away not sanding the previous blender area might have caused the new top coat of clear to have a reaction, i mean it happened right away withing seconds. is sanding and top coating with color the trick or just sanding down the prev blender the trick to not have this reaction?
How long do you wait from spraying the final coat of clear, to hitting it with the blender?
Should wait for ppg at least 10 mins then blender right away
Hey Gabe,
Where you hit that with the spray max blender , mine comes out rough. Then i go to polish it, not compound but finishing polish and it still breaks and you can see the where it does.
I would say you are getting to much base overspray on the blend so then it can't polish i would try to do a low in and give yourself alot alot alot of room if you can so that blender is landing strictly on clear and clear and not basecoat over spray
Trey, we’re the end of your blend would normally end, start there. With your gun pointed straight pull the trigger a full pull and then go down instead of up. This way the clear isn’t thin it has mills of clear at the end of the blend. Then I spray a little blender on that . You would think it would be real thick and visible, but it isn’t. It’s kinda like starting your primer out far on the first coat . I hope this helps
Sounds like you have too much material in the wrong area of the blend 4000 area is basically just blender and light overspray
I have luck hitting the blend area with blender once before I even begin clearing it seems to lay into it and bite better
awsome video, thank you soo much. I cant find 5000 grit anywhere in stock, can i just buff it with cutting compound instead??
ok never mind i guess i can just use 3k
Yeah totally
hi gabe have you painted mercedes 755 tenolite grey? if so which shade did you use ie prime etc got to paint one mon and there is about 8 different shades to chose from? thought might give me a shade to start with?
Hey brother I always start with prime ! I haven't painted it though
ok mate will see how i go!
If I’m spot treating a corner of a hood do I need a clear and a blender or can I use just the blender? The area is less than 1 square foot
I wouldn't do that on a hood. But yes you need to clear coat it and blender
So...do you spray the new clear over top of the old clear (few inch overlap) then use the blender in that overlap area? Or do you spray the new clear right up to the old clear...then use the blender at the joint of old and new clear? Gonna tackle a project myself real soon
Do exactly what I did in the video 🤪 use the blender in the overlap area
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS sorry if it was a stupid question. Haha. I've very handy...but never done and paint on a car. I have all the materials I just wanna make sure I do it 100% right. Thanks man. And I'm also using all aerosol cans. No spray guns
Haha all good!!!
Are you spraying the spray can 1k on all of your 5000 grit scratches? Or just where your clear stops?
Yes 5000
👍
Good job.. I don't understand we used BLEND SOLVENT . Demges my all paint .wash all paint down. Called 5913
Is spot blender just a 1 k clear coat or some kind of reducer concoction?
I don't know what they make it off but it's the best one on the market
Will the blender work if I scuff the blend area with 3000 grit (finest I have right now) or will the scores be too deep?
You should be good
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS Thank you man - great video as always!
5,000 grit?
Y despues de este proceso...cuando este bien seco...es necesario pulir??
Muy poco
Do you always want to use a blender clear when blending clear? Is there instances where you would not use a blender product?
Yes always or else you will have a very harsh transition
MOTIVATED PAINTERS Well the reason I ask is cause I painted my girlfriends bumper(blend repair) first time ever painting anything automotive with spray cans and didn’t have a transition at all. I can’t even tell where I blended it. I just did the rear bumper last week and man the blend is so noticeable so I am going to redo it with the Fx3000 I ordered and was wondering what blender to use? Would the spray max 1k be fine for acrylic lacquer clear coat or even a 2 part urethane clear? Not sure what clear to use yet as I need advice or to do some research as I’m new to this. Thanks so much for you’re help and all you’re fast reply’s!
Spray max bledner should work ppg had a fast clear called ec800
Will that 1 max work with any clear coat product?
Yup
Is the whole panel sanded with 5000 or do you spray the blender between sanded and not sanded clear?
You can do it with 5000
MOTIVATED PAINTERS thank you for the reply, but my question is; is the clear blender sprayed past the sanded area landing on un sanded clear or everything is done on a sanded surface?
What grit for polishing over blend area?
3000-5000
So blending like this is preferable to clear coating the whole panel, I would have thought it is not as durable though?
Absolutely not. It's preferable to clear coat the whole panel for sure !! I just wanted to share the video on this situation !!
Thanks for the reply.
So presumably this would be a good technique when doing a local repair, to save painting the whole panel.
Is that can of blender , the same as a fade out thinner
One k spray max
Can you use this with satin clear?
Yes I believe you can
Do you ever have a problem with the clear coat peeling from the blend area?
I haven't yet 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
It seems that if this is properly done, it will last as long as a full reclear. But most seem prejudiced against the method, as I suspect most people don't do it properly and the new clear fade out doesn't bond with the old clear, causing failure.
Are you able to polish the blender afterwards?
Absolutely
Just have to be careful with polishing that blended area. If you polish it too hard soon you have a rapid edge there which will be visible.
Excellent but why 5000 in over spray area ???
Because blender is super thin so you want it to go in there and not just on undanded area
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS awesome thanks doing a DYI first time. Got my subscription 👊🏻👍🏻
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS using all the spray max 2k and spot blender 👍🏻
Awesome per usual. This is a necessary evil, despite what many may say
Part of me dies every time I’m asked to do this 😒😒😒 like seriously why would any customer or shop owner say no to scuffing the rest of the panel
Because many body shops, even the best ones, permanently damage trim when they go to paint something. I know of a few people who've done this and it has held up after 4 years of daily driving. If it lasts that long, I'd say its a no brainer. Have you experienced otherwise?
Hmmmm....I have an AC Cobra and the body work consists of a boot(trunk) a bonnet and the rest of the body is one single piece, so any work on the actual body would require the entire body to be clear coated?? So in some cases there might be no option but to do it this way?
Yes this is the best way to do it
what sanding scratch? are you blending in to,
3000-50000
@@MOTIVATEDPAINTERS 50,000! Silk is more abrasive than that😝
Was not needed at all on the panel u did showing it on a wheel opening lip or something could be usefull that was well whatever
😍😍😍😍😍😍
It'so bad, u are literally blending on glance surface. All those blends are showing up or even starting to peel off, 3000, 4000 and 5000 grid is not for the adhesive sanding! Please try doing it correctly, 1000-1500 on 3mm machine, after painting lightly touch it with 3000, and polish. U will save the grain, u will have real adhesion on blend, and this blend will never show up after time, it's permanent. Obviously u r using agressive solvent for blend, but this is a product to avoid as well, at least between people which i know. Never gonna forget when on 8030 spiec hecker clearcoat, if they own agressive blender did fall on the main painted surface - it will leave holes so deep, almost to the base. On perfectly sprayed 1,5 layer coating. There is absolutely no need to treat factory and new clearcoat with scetchy agressive liguid.