That unroller works great in the wide open spaces but not so much when running or repairing fences in the woods. Also, I've used either a power winch or the tractor to put a bit of pre- tension on the wire before using the Goldenrod. Working on fence lines in the woods though, the technique you demonstrated here with the Goldenrod is about the only way to go.
Yeah I've been thinking about the woods the last few days as I get to running the fence through it. This coming weekend I'll be running wire through it, I was thinking a winch would be really nice for getting around all the trees, but I'll probably try to just roll the wire along the ground where I have to, there's only about 2 spots in a couple runs that I have a problem since I spent a few weekends clearing trees.
I don't like to wrap the wire around the end post tie off that many times. If you need to retighten that wire is is hard to work with again. 2 turns is plenty.
Exactly, never seen a fence unravel with just 2 turns of wrap. It also makes it possible to unwrap it to tighten fence up after a couple years. Glad to see barb wire used as many insist on 5-6 strands of high tensil. I like 2 or 3 strands of light weight barb on T post about every 30' with a 6 to 15 joule fencer that I check everyday. As in checking every night from my livingroom window I see the old 4' florescent bulb leaning on the fence, blinking brightly and know the fence is HOT and cows are in. I do drive the fence every couple days looking for deer damage, broken insulators or tree limbs on fence. 40 acres of pasture in Michigan and no escapes in 8 years. Great video.
My first attempt which I didn't film was using some old 3/4 galvanized pipe (threaded) I had laying around, put it through the 3pt bottom links and when a wire got tight it actually broke the 3/4 pipe. So that made me decide to buy this, still I wish it didn't bind up as often as it does, when using a new roll I've had it bind 4-5 times in a 500ft section, once the roll of wire gets a little lower it binds up less.
I use my ATV trailer. I have 2x4 side stakes that the spool axle goes thru. You could make a spool frame to set in your trailer and strap it down if you don't have stakes. You need a person to watch the spool unroll as the wire may wrap onto the wooden spool crosses. The barbs hook the wire too but just throttle up the ATV to dislodge them. Spooled out 3 bales this way. Beats jumpimg on/off a tractor. I use the ATV's wench to tighten the wire. Two 1/4'' cable clamps to secure the wires. I use a chain wrapped to the post for height adjustment with the cable thru a snatch block hooked to the chain. Tightens new wire banjo tight and a good test of the old wire for breaking or splices pulling apart..
Yeah that would probably work well, I later found that cranking the 3pt hitch all the way to one side worked well too, showed that in this one: ruclips.net/video/zBNumhfqcQk/видео.html
Yeah that's a good idea, I tried doing that but didn't have a mount that worked well for it. In the end I found that if I tilt the 3pt this sits on all the way to one side it has enough friction that it doesn't spin like that. I talk about it more here: ruclips.net/video/zBNumhfqcQk/видео.html
@@ginohidalgo1646 I start with the top strand and work down, that way when you tighten it there's nothing below it for it to catch on as it comes up. But if you don't it's not a huge problem, just have to shake it some if it catches.
Go halfway back to the post your tensioning from after you have put the initial strain on, pick up the wire and lean back on it as hard as your body weight will allow. Then go check your tensioning again and you'll be surprised.
We do this in New Zealand, always, stretch, and strain up twice, or more, that fence wire will be slack, in no time, most times i used to strain, and tie of, from the middle of the strain, now we use H.T barb, which does not stretch. much better product, check out if its available in your area.
I'll have to look into that, I hadn't seen it anywhere. These have been in place for about 10 months now and seem pretty good, but I'm sure I'll have to tighten them at some point.
That unroller works great in the wide open spaces but not so much when running or repairing fences in the woods. Also, I've used either a power winch or the tractor to put a bit of pre- tension on the wire before using the Goldenrod. Working on fence lines in the woods though, the technique you demonstrated here with the Goldenrod is about the only way to go.
Yeah I've been thinking about the woods the last few days as I get to running the fence through it. This coming weekend I'll be running wire through it, I was thinking a winch would be really nice for getting around all the trees, but I'll probably try to just roll the wire along the ground where I have to, there's only about 2 spots in a couple runs that I have a problem since I spent a few weekends clearing trees.
I don't like to wrap the wire around the end post tie off that many times. If you need to retighten that wire is is hard to work with again. 2 turns is plenty.
Yeah when I did the rest of the fence I started doing less, also laziness set in :)
Exactly, never seen a fence unravel with just 2 turns of wrap. It also makes it possible to unwrap it to tighten fence up after a couple years. Glad to see barb wire used as many insist on 5-6 strands of high tensil. I like 2 or 3 strands of light weight barb on T post about every 30' with a 6 to 15 joule fencer that I check everyday. As in checking every night from my livingroom window I see the old 4' florescent bulb leaning on the fence, blinking brightly and know the fence is HOT and cows are in. I do drive the fence every couple days looking for deer damage, broken insulators or tree limbs on fence. 40 acres of pasture in Michigan and no escapes in 8 years. Great video.
Good idea using the 3pth wished I had seen this before built a rack for the front of the quad but backing up is hard on an ol guy like me lol
My first attempt which I didn't film was using some old 3/4 galvanized pipe (threaded) I had laying around, put it through the 3pt bottom links and when a wire got tight it actually broke the 3/4 pipe. So that made me decide to buy this, still I wish it didn't bind up as often as it does, when using a new roll I've had it bind 4-5 times in a 500ft section, once the roll of wire gets a little lower it binds up less.
I use my ATV trailer. I have 2x4 side stakes that the spool axle goes thru. You could make a spool frame to set in your trailer and strap it down if you don't have stakes. You need a person to watch the spool unroll as the wire may wrap onto the wooden spool crosses. The barbs hook the wire too but just throttle up the ATV to dislodge them. Spooled out 3 bales this way. Beats jumpimg on/off a tractor.
I use the ATV's wench to tighten the wire. Two 1/4'' cable clamps to secure the wires. I use a chain wrapped to the post for height adjustment with the cable thru a snatch block hooked to the chain. Tightens new wire banjo tight and a good test of the old wire for breaking or splices pulling apart..
Hint.........put an old disc on each side of the wire roll . It will , most times keep the wire unspooling from the roll !
Yeah that would probably work well, I later found that cranking the 3pt hitch all the way to one side worked well too, showed that in this one: ruclips.net/video/zBNumhfqcQk/видео.html
Huh I’ve never seen the clip bender in action pretty handy
I've been really happy with it, seems to really make the job a lot faster.
Let that roll of wire on the ground. The ground acts as a brake.
Yeah that's a good idea, I tried doing that but didn't have a mount that worked well for it. In the end I found that if I tilt the 3pt this sits on all the way to one side it has enough friction that it doesn't spin like that. I talk about it more here: ruclips.net/video/zBNumhfqcQk/видео.html
You’re hilarious
I have about 1,300 ft of wire I need to put up. Always something to do out in the ranch lol
Really does seem like there's always something to do, and if not I seem to be pretty good at coming up with something to do.
@@sandboxranch yes sir! Hey quick question before I start mine. Do you start the first strand from the top or bottom? Does it matter? Thanks.
@@ginohidalgo1646 I start with the top strand and work down, that way when you tighten it there's nothing below it for it to catch on as it comes up. But if you don't it's not a huge problem, just have to shake it some if it catches.
Go halfway back to the post your tensioning from after you have put the initial strain on, pick up the wire and lean back on it as hard as your body weight will allow. Then go check your tensioning again and you'll be surprised.
Thats a great idea, I'll try that this weekend.
We do this in New Zealand, always, stretch, and strain up twice, or more, that fence wire will be slack, in no time, most times i used to strain, and tie of, from the middle of the strain, now we use H.T barb, which does not stretch. much better product, check out if its available in your area.
Great Video Brother!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Appreciate it!
Off a post go 5 loose then 5 tight. Joining do the same both ways.
I'll have to try that next time I run some wire.
See if high tensile barb, is available in your area, much better, as it wont stretch, that wire, will go slack in no time.
I'll have to look into that, I hadn't seen it anywhere. These have been in place for about 10 months now and seem pretty good, but I'm sure I'll have to tighten them at some point.
Just go 5 easy then 5 tight off the strainer.
Yeah I've started putting a bit more strain on it recently expecting the longer runs to loosen up more.
Not a very good idea to be wearing shorts
True, and my legs have paid for it.