You can also use the arrow buttons to move the number setting position. The unit that was shipped to me didn't get checked before shipping... Both the positive and negative output wires were left in soldered to the circuit board. When i removed the cover the red wire was floating in the air. The black wire was stuck in the hole but not soldered. After I soldered the wires in their holes the unit works.
I like these small power supplies very much and they are getting better version by version. The last 3 of them are on the bench and used for drilling machines soldering irons and normal power supplies. They might not be perfect regarding noise when testing sensitive electronics but a passive filter can be added as self made adapter.
Thank you for reviewing this. I didn't purchase the Supply but did order that big resistor and a huge Rheostat 200w 5 Ohm for doing these type test. I enjoy doing these type test.
At the start of the video, I was going to comment that 40V, 20A would be 800W and that thing didn't look big enough to handle it. Nice to see the clarification of the 300W max at the end.
I agree, there's a lot of "wasted space" on that display, DC, brand, model number, we already know it's a power supply, no need to tell us, etc... I'm doing some LCD GUI stuff atm, that one triggers me BAD hehehe
But what is the output noise like? And transient response like? Like does it overshoot and how does it regulate during load transients? How long to get back under control?
@@hobbified I've read a forum thread about this: The repliers speculated that the "U" comes from the latin word "urgere", it's translated as "to urge". So I guess the logic is that the voltage urges the current or something.
I saw a ground lead going from the heat sink to the front panel, but there is no ground on the front panel. Is the AC ground tied to Neg output or something?
Like to see output ripple with that 1R resistor, and also low current ripple, likely to be not too bad, though the constant current is very likely to have some rather nasty transient peaks, with all that output capacitance, and current limiting might not save your DUT if it has an accident, those capacitors will deliver some brutal spike before the control loop can drop it back down. But not at all a bad looking unit, though it looks like the software and USB is just a CH340 serial interface, wonder just how janky the software is, and what the command set is like for it. USB output a good extra, plenty of times you need a 5V supply, though as it is part of the control loop, they probably share a common ground, and that can be an issue. Should have provided a separate isolated USB power, an extra few cents to add the extra wire, the diode and the capacitor, and then instead have had it separate, with at least 250VDC isolation, so that you can use other USB powered test equipment with it, or included a small USB C full function supply, or at least one capable of doing negotiation up to 30W instead, so you can run more modern test equipment as well off a single mains connection. Plenty of space in that cabinet to have added that extra board, and fed off the existing aux supply rectifier and capacitor for primary, or off the main board 340V supply rails.
@@brianpeers also the earth shall be fastened independently of any other mounting hardware. i must go back and have a look at BS EN 601010 or the Ul equivalent.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist That makes perfect sense yes for the input earth conductor to have its own dedicated mechanical fastener attached securely to the appliances metal chassis. No pop rivets please. And no paint etc in the way. Cheers from New Zealand. 48 years of radio/electronics servicing and I thought I had seen it all in regards to electrical safety failures until the other day when I came across a CD player, tuner, and amplifier all three of them wired into a single mains plug. They had even got the phase and neutral around the wrong way. I could send you a photo but this platform does not allow it.
CC stands for constant current, not current compliance? Right? I don’t like that it’s not obvious that the output is on. Should be a separate light. Or maybe a lighted output button. Buttons and knobs are too squished together. I like a horizontal power supply better than these vertical ones.
My power supply failed after around 40 minutes of usage (it is a problem from inside because the 5A fuse is blowing when I try to turn on the supply). I did some investigations on my project and I observed that it have an inrush current of 19A at 12V for a period on 40us (when it is connected to supply) and I think that was the end for the power supply. I contacted bagoong for full refund, (the power supply failed after 2 weeks after I received it) and they after 10 days says that can refund 15 dollars. I not recommending this power supply (to pay 130 dollars and to use it for 30~45 minutes ....... that was in my case).
I fell for the "20 amps" without seeing the 300 watt max. I wanted to log the max amp usage of a 24 volt AC. That could be as much as 15 amps. No way I can get 24 volts at 15 amps with this -- but still better than a 10 amp supply.
I'm sorry to say, but you can't call this video a review. It was more of a quick test and a very crude view of the inside with rotating the device at light speed. I understand that you can't devote hours off your time on a review, but if you look at the comments of other viewers, there are a lot of questions and very few answers after this "review". What about the ripple ? Is the output floating or tied to ground, if tied to ground, you can't use it in series with another powersupply or you create a short if that powersupply's output is grounded. What about the current measuring, did they use a old skool current shunt or did they use a dedicated chip with a Hall sensor ? A slow view across the board could have show this, instead of rotating the device at light speed. How loud is the fan? A stress test could have showed that. Does the 5V USB output share the same negative as the powersupply itself ? How does the 5V output perform under load ? Does the powersupply have a fuse ? So many questions with no answers.
It is a YACSPS (Yet another Chinese switch mode power supply) I bet it has more than 20 mV ripple, I have a dual power supply similar to it and I had to put extra filtering in it...
Another nit to pick with those banana jacks. Why place a black cap on the binding post instead of red? Would have liked to see the 'scope trace on across that 1 ohm load.
Great Videos. Well Done. I bet you could make a set of LOUDAPHONES like they have on ships that work without outside power by using voice vibrations for energy. It would be fun to have a set of Loudaphones between the Kitchen and the noisy Workshop that work even if the power goes out. Maybe a windup that would light up an LED or Buzzer to let the people on the other end you are calling. ( Sure cell phones work, but what is the fun in that ... and what about an EMP ? ) ... and for those fun Armageddon prepping individuals it makes me wonder if one could make a set of Loudaphones that are 'EMP proof', then you could have them wired between the house and your super secret 'End of the World' bunker. *Grin* I know the world just ended but one still has to be able to inform that lunch is ready in the kitchen, right? Just having fun, but Loudaphones like they have on vintage ships would be a fun electronics project. Once again, thank you for making interesting and informative videos. Well Done!!
Same problem with the dmt99 fnirsi multimeter i reviewed on my channel, u cannot plug my standard K-type temp probe because the spacing is not standard on the multimeter geez, that's dumb
Hi IMSAI Guy. First of all, thank you for your videos, they are very helpful for those of us who are just starting out and learning in the world of electronics. I'm thinking of buying a power supply that gives me at least 30V and 20A for repairing laptops and other electronic devices. I have a question about this power supply. Is this device suitable for repairing laptops or other electronic devices, for detecting short circuits, etc.? Are this OVP and OCP safe? I'm a little worried about the voltage/amperage dropping so slowly. As I said, I'm new to this world, I'm studying and learning electronics and I still don't understand many things. Thank you very much in advance and a hug.
seems like a lot of current. I always encourage people getting started to get what ever they can afford. But, if you are worried about damaging something you are trying to repair, expect that you will fail many times even with the best equipment. start out repairng things you would have thrown in the trash anyway. This supply is OK. Nothing like a good Rigol or used HP.
@@IMSAIGuy Thank you very much for your answer, my friend. Another question I have is: I have seen in another analysis that the power supply is isolated from ground, or at least the current output. What does this mean? I mean, what is this for? Is it galvanic isolation? Maybe it has an isolation transformer? And is this safe? Excuse my ignorance, I am quite new to electronics and although I am studying daily, I still miss a lot of things. Thank you very much again, a hug.
@@IMSAIGuy Thank you very much for your answers and for your help, my friend. I don't know if you tried it, but it can supply 20V and 12A, right?. There are some laptops that need 20V-12A to be able to start, that's why I need a power supply that can reach 20A. I have a 30V-10A one, but it's not enough to start certain computers. I understand that being a 300W source it will not be able to supply more than 20V and 15A, etc. I know that to exceed those voltages and more than 15A, I will need a power supply less than 600W. Thanks in advance and a hug.
Indeed, this is also stated on the Ohm's law site of Fluke. In the Englisch version of that site they use V for voltage, and on the Dutch version of that site, they use U. In my opinion is V choosen wrong, because in Ohm's law we use I for current and not A.
it is not even U, it is a chalk board times version of greek upsilon (lower case upsilon, but written in upper case in the context of physics school class, no wonder it is not on any keyboard). There is nothing 'american' in it, just oldschool vs new flexible one. The whole debate is endless as there is no such standard or even solid meaning history for U.
@@IMSAIGuy *taking the pedantic viewer role* volts and amperes are units indeed. U or E and I are parameter symbols most used for voltage potential and current expressed in units of V and A. Except of course in the land of foot, pint and stones where V is expressed in V. Very logical. 🤭
20A @ 40V DC , powersupplies are not advertised with there amp ratings of the mains side. This means in theory 800Watt on the output side , NOT the mains side. With 120V AC mains, this powersupply only draws arround 6A on the mains side. With 240V mains, it only draws arround 3A.
Check the accuracy of the voltage and current settings. Check the CV and CC compliance functioning. Check the output ripple level.
Startup transients, output ripple ... ?
You can also use the arrow buttons to move the number setting position.
The unit that was shipped to me didn't get checked before shipping... Both the positive and negative output wires were left in soldered to the circuit board. When i removed the cover the red wire was floating in the air. The black wire was stuck in the hole but not soldered. After I soldered the wires in their holes the unit works.
For Ham radio applications, does it emit any RF noise?
I like these small power supplies very much and they are getting better version by version. The last 3 of them are on the bench and used for drilling machines soldering irons and normal power supplies. They might not be perfect regarding noise when testing sensitive electronics but a passive filter can be added as self made adapter.
“We need a bigger boat”… I just had cola shoot out of nose thanks to that Jaws ref. Nice!!!LOL!
Do the banana jacks have holes for sticking in bare wires? Is the USB port isolated?
Its a switcher lots of noise.
Thank you for reviewing this. I didn't purchase the Supply but did order that big resistor and a huge Rheostat 200w 5 Ohm for doing these type test.
I enjoy doing these type test.
At the start of the video, I was going to comment that 40V, 20A would be 800W and that thing didn't look big enough to handle it. Nice to see the clarification of the 300W max at the end.
Biggest item on the display is "DC" 🤯
I agree, there's a lot of "wasted space" on that display, DC, brand, model number, we already know it's a power supply, no need to tell us, etc...
I'm doing some LCD GUI stuff atm, that one triggers me BAD hehehe
@@charlesdorval394 Yeah, I've done some GUI stuff too, this one was not so great 🤣. Good video btw.
That separate 5v switcher is for your USB output but it may also run the display.
But what is the output noise like? And transient response like? Like does it overshoot and how does it regulate during load transients? How long to get back under control?
Here in Europe we use 'U' for 'voltage'. Guess that's why it's labelled 'U/I'?
uoltage.
@@hobbified I've read a forum thread about this: The repliers speculated that the "U" comes from the latin word "urgere", it's translated as "to urge". So I guess the logic is that the voltage urges the current or something.
I saw a ground lead going from the heat sink to the front panel, but there is no ground on the front panel.
Is the AC ground tied to Neg output or something?
Like to see output ripple with that 1R resistor, and also low current ripple, likely to be not too bad, though the constant current is very likely to have some rather nasty transient peaks, with all that output capacitance, and current limiting might not save your DUT if it has an accident, those capacitors will deliver some brutal spike before the control loop can drop it back down. But not at all a bad looking unit, though it looks like the software and USB is just a CH340 serial interface, wonder just how janky the software is, and what the command set is like for it.
USB output a good extra, plenty of times you need a 5V supply, though as it is part of the control loop, they probably share a common ground, and that can be an issue. Should have provided a separate isolated USB power, an extra few cents to add the extra wire, the diode and the capacitor, and then instead have had it separate, with at least 250VDC isolation, so that you can use other USB powered test equipment with it, or included a small USB C full function supply, or at least one capable of doing negotiation up to 30W instead, so you can run more modern test equipment as well off a single mains connection. Plenty of space in that cabinet to have added that extra board, and fed off the existing aux supply rectifier and capacitor for primary, or off the main board 340V supply rails.
I wish you had tested its output noise as such SMPS's are known to produce horrible noise that make them almost useless for analog circuits...
This is interesting, thanks. Have you tested the RF ripple coming out of the PS when loaded? This may be of significance when testing sensitive RF.
I know that some people like the safety ground going to the case, so does most of the regulations for electrical safety. 🙂
Agreed,,, the case is “ground zero” so to speak.
Earth/ground safety 101.
@@brianpeers also the earth shall be fastened independently of any other mounting hardware. i must go back and have a look at BS EN 601010 or the Ul equivalent.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist That makes perfect sense yes for the input earth conductor to have its own dedicated mechanical fastener attached securely to the appliances metal chassis. No pop rivets please. And no paint etc in the way.
Cheers from New Zealand. 48 years of radio/electronics servicing and I thought I had seen it all in regards to electrical safety failures until the other day when I came across a CD player, tuner, and amplifier all three of them wired into a single mains plug.
They had even got the phase and neutral around the wrong way. I could send you a photo but this platform does not allow it.
Thanks for sharing. God bless you
CC stands for constant current, not current compliance? Right? I don’t like that it’s not obvious that the output is on. Should be a separate light. Or maybe a lighted output button. Buttons and knobs are too squished together. I like a horizontal power supply better than these vertical ones.
My power supply failed after around 40 minutes of usage (it is a problem from inside because the 5A fuse is blowing when I try to turn on the supply). I did some investigations on my project and I observed that it have an inrush current of 19A at 12V for a period on 40us (when it is connected to supply) and I think that was the end for the power supply. I contacted bagoong for full refund, (the power supply failed after 2 weeks after I received it) and they after 10 days says that can refund 15 dollars.
I not recommending this power supply (to pay 130 dollars and to use it for 30~45 minutes ....... that was in my case).
I will consider getting one for Ham use bench testing thanks for saving me the trouble on deciding thanks Mike wb7qxu
A lot of output capacitance makes me nervous. It makes current limiting a bit of a joke. Sure, the current will be limited ... eventually.
Siglent has the same problem with the connector spacing.
I agree - I have an SPD3303X - it bothers me there, but with the 60A power supply I made, I deliberately did not keep the spacing of the sockets.
I fell for the "20 amps" without seeing the 300 watt max. I wanted to log the max amp usage of a 24 volt AC. That could be as much as 15 amps. No way I can get 24 volts at 15 amps with this -- but still better than a 10 amp supply.
I'm sorry to say, but you can't call this video a review.
It was more of a quick test and a very crude view of the inside with rotating the device at light speed.
I understand that you can't devote hours off your time on a review, but if you look at the comments of other viewers,
there are a lot of questions and very few answers after this "review".
What about the ripple ? Is the output floating or tied to ground, if tied to ground, you can't use it in series with another powersupply or you create a short if that powersupply's output is grounded. What about the current measuring, did they use a old skool current shunt or did they use a dedicated chip with a Hall sensor ?
A slow view across the board could have show this, instead of rotating the device at light speed.
How loud is the fan? A stress test could have showed that. Does the 5V USB output share the same negative as the powersupply itself ?
How does the 5V output perform under load ? Does the powersupply have a fuse ?
So many questions with no answers.
I will join - OVP functionality, OCP, transition speed
CC/CV, residual capacity at the output, back interference to the network, etc.
@@Edisson. lots of questions, with less answers. Cutting corners like they say. Grts
It is a YACSPS (Yet another Chinese switch mode power supply) I bet it has more than 20 mV ripple, I have a dual power supply similar to it and I had to put extra filtering in it...
Can you share a link to the BSIDE official website ? Is it possible to download software from somewhere?
Another nit to pick with those banana jacks. Why place a black cap on the binding post instead of red? Would have liked to see the 'scope trace on across that 1 ohm load.
Great Videos. Well Done. I bet you could make a set of LOUDAPHONES like they have on ships that work without outside power by using voice vibrations for energy.
It would be fun to have a set of Loudaphones between the Kitchen and the noisy Workshop that work even if the power goes out. Maybe a windup that would light up an LED or Buzzer to let the people on the other end you are calling. ( Sure cell phones work, but what is the fun in that ... and what about an EMP ? )
... and for those fun Armageddon prepping individuals it makes me wonder if one could make a set of Loudaphones that are 'EMP proof', then you could have them wired between the house and your super secret 'End of the World' bunker. *Grin* I know the world just ended but one still has to be able to inform that lunch is ready in the kitchen, right?
Just having fun, but Loudaphones like they have on vintage ships would be a fun electronics project.
Once again, thank you for making interesting and informative videos. Well Done!!
How much noise and hash does it emit? could you pls connect a SA to it.
If you want a good power supply on eBay lots of used HP 6033A SYSTEM POWER SUPPLY 0-20V 30A low noise.
Oh yeah, I'd love me a "Programmalble" power supply. 😂
Looks nice.
Can the misspelling of "programalbe" be fixed?
programmalbity is a featuer
Same problem with the dmt99 fnirsi multimeter i reviewed on my channel, u cannot plug my standard K-type temp probe because the spacing is not standard on the multimeter geez, that's dumb
I like that. Let's test the power supply with this teeny little resistor. Oops. Then bring out the giant resistor. 🙂👍
Shame about multiple obsolete USB ports
Hi IMSAI Guy. First of all, thank you for your videos, they are very helpful for those of us who are just starting out and learning in the world of electronics.
I'm thinking of buying a power supply that gives me at least 30V and 20A for repairing laptops and other electronic devices.
I have a question about this power supply. Is this device suitable for repairing laptops or other electronic devices, for detecting short circuits, etc.? Are this OVP and OCP safe? I'm a little worried about the voltage/amperage dropping so slowly.
As I said, I'm new to this world, I'm studying and learning electronics and I still don't understand many things.
Thank you very much in advance and a hug.
seems like a lot of current. I always encourage people getting started to get what ever they can afford. But, if you are worried about damaging something you are trying to repair, expect that you will fail many times even with the best equipment. start out repairng things you would have thrown in the trash anyway. This supply is OK. Nothing like a good Rigol or used HP.
@@IMSAIGuy Thank you very much for your answer, my friend.
Another question I have is: I have seen in another analysis that the power supply is isolated from ground, or at least the current output. What does this mean? I mean, what is this for? Is it galvanic isolation? Maybe it has an isolation transformer? And is this safe?
Excuse my ignorance, I am quite new to electronics and although I am studying daily, I still miss a lot of things.
Thank you very much again, a hug.
@@CesarHawk1 No it is not isolated.
@@IMSAIGuy Thank you very much for your answers and for your help, my friend.
I don't know if you tried it, but it can supply 20V and 12A, right?.
There are some laptops that need 20V-12A to be able to start, that's why I need a power supply that can reach 20A.
I have a 30V-10A one, but it's not enough to start certain computers.
I understand that being a 300W source it will not be able to supply more than 20V and 15A, etc. I know that to exceed those voltages and more than 15A, I will need a power supply less than 600W.
Thanks in advance and a hug.
@@CesarHawk1 the limit is V * I < 300watts
Metal watch strap & bare contacts on some of the wiring. Sooner you than me.
Why do you say that U/I should be V/I? We're not all Americans. U is commonly used in Europe for voltage (difference).
Indeed, this is also stated on the Ohm's law site of Fluke. In the Englisch version of that site they use V for voltage, and on the Dutch version of that site, they use U.
In my opinion is V choosen wrong, because in Ohm's law we use I for current and not A.
it is not even U, it is a chalk board times version of greek upsilon (lower case upsilon, but written in upper case in the context of physics school class, no wonder it is not on any keyboard). There is nothing 'american' in it, just oldschool vs new flexible one. The whole debate is endless as there is no such standard or even solid meaning history for U.
where are all the pedantic viewers? isn't the Volt an SI unit? maybe it should be V/A
@@IMSAIGuy *taking the pedantic viewer role* volts and amperes are units indeed. U or E and I are parameter symbols most used for voltage potential and current expressed in units of V and A. Except of course in the land of foot, pint and stones where V is expressed in V. Very logical. 🤭
I couldn't use this because I have 15 amp fuses in my lap
20A @ 40V DC , powersupplies are not advertised with there amp ratings of the mains side.
This means in theory 800Watt on the output side , NOT the mains side.
With 120V AC mains, this powersupply only draws arround 6A on the mains side. With 240V mains, it only draws arround 3A.
@@BjornV78Man, i think if he couldn’t understand that, he is not ready to have lab yet)
Come on!... al least check for on/off spikes and ripple!
😂 Thanks, IMSAI Guy clearly had a good day !!
15A @110VAC. Or 15A @40V DC?
20A @ 40V DC , powersupplies are not advertised with there amp ratings of the mains side.
@@BjornV78300 watts would be the limit so divide 300 watts by your input voltage and that would be about your max amps.
You'd be better off with an LLC full bridge Gold or Titanium ATX PS for 12V and 30A. That thing is going to puke EMI and ripple and ruin your HAM fun.