You made my day today. Had a hard day at the factory, then I saw your update the wife and I sat back and enjoyed watching what you guys achieved 🤩🤩🤩. KEEP ON TAMPING 😊😊
Can I buy a copy of your procedures? Curious as to how you decided to put together a process. Ive managed to build my own process over the years reading and watching RE videos but ive never actually done a project like you have. I am sure you have learnt many lessons!
From UK - When I saw the different coloured striations in the rammed earth wall, I thought how beautiful! I'm very interested in sustainable building, originally trained as Civil Engineer - really enjoyed this video, keep up this excellent work.
Fantastic effort guys. A tip I use. I don't drill for the rebar. But put 20mm plastic conduits in the wall when ramming. Then just slide rebar in. You walls look great so rewarding. Keep it up.
@@RedEarthRanch its the same as a drilled hole you have to slide the rebar into the hole so there is still movement. Here is a vid. ruclips.net/video/KEnhStMwhZY/видео.html BUT I now put 2 rebars either side of the 20mm rod as well going into the wall.
Thinking about this idea... i think it would provide a shear strength if the fit was tight enough, And allow for miniscule movement, possibly reducing cracks (between wall sections) from temperature or ground swell movements. One side slid into the pipe and the other exposed would ensure a constant contact, and any (up to about half the diameter of the pipe wall) compression would be absorbed by the inserted pipe while allowing the wall to move independantly to resist cracking. Granted, any major movement would result in sheer force cracks between wall sections where the rebar is installed bare, and cracks would appear between sections with plastic pipe being used, but i believe the movement between sections would need to be even more extreme. I am no engineer, but the physical movement between walls will eventually (hopefully not for another 500 years or so) happen, and cracks will eventually happen as a result. Using the plastic pipe as a "shock absorber" or cushion, as an internal mechanism does not seem a bad idea. I have watched videos about how to stop cracks on cinder block walls, and they are now built to allow for movement, using thin sheets or stripes of metal, and intentionally cutting the walls to create joints. The walls move at the joints but are held in place by those thin strips. I was thinking you don't have any sheer joints... was wondering if cracking would start once a few corners got tied into the structure. I hope not, but being caught up in the excitement of what you are doing, i never thought about it until i read this comment.
Wow Guys absolutely amazing. Love the colours and patterns… well done. We see your understanding what you need to do …. Suggestion for you. If you pack wet sand in your pvc wall penetration and seal it off with duck tape. Should keep them from collapsing..🙂🙂🙂 Keep on Tamping 🤪
You are absolutely correct and we will be doing this next time. All part of the learning process and we are so thankful to have a community of people with WAY more experience than us. Thanks so much for the tip!
When you rebuild your forms next, make sure the screws are recessed (like you did last time) and laminate a layer of formica or melamine with a heavy duty glue... no through screws.
enjoying the journey by the way - and fair play to your bro for taking the comment the right way - Please make that t-shirt, I'll buy :-D - love from Ireland
The bubbling on the walls or empty air packets is developed due to over tamping (ramming), displacing the moisture content and the finest materials to the bottom. It is probably done when you hand ramming. Greetings!
great looking walls and great job on videoing and explaining... is that 2by 4 steel studding and form panels your using as forms? Clever is it is and is strong enough. i also like the icf turn buckle bracing system to support and plumb your walls. Thanks for videoing, we are hoping to build a RE
Have you experimented with putting padding on your rammer head to stop it damaging the plywood form walls. I have seen industrial felt and fibre glass cloth used especially in some countries where ply is expensive .
I wonder if you could have a piece of aluminum machined to fit each size of pipe your run through the wall? Should keep the pipe from getting crushed or bent or use schedule 80? Then pop the the aluminum filler piece out when done
Hello guys! I'm a follower from Brazil. I love the different colors of the rammed earth layers! That's a very nice job!! What if you put a piece of wood cut to the inside diameter of the pipe? Wouldn't that prevent it from moving during earth compaction, especially the drain pipe?
We actually had @Kyle Landau and @ Mel Lyons suggest using sand and I think that would work best because it would be easier to remove once the wall is in place. I would be concerned that the wood wouldn't come out after the weight of the wall was on it.
Over here we call rammed earth taipa de pilao. The ancient churches in ouro preto where built with a similar technique 400years ago. But they use crushed bricks ,lime and whales oil instead of cement because... Well cement was not invented yet
Next time, feel your pipes with wet soil before you put them in the wall. That way, they maintain their shape, and you can compact them without breaking them
Beautiful work guys! I've considered building with stabilized rammed earth for years and watching your videos brings me back around to the idea... Where I am we are basically on a limestone shelf, bedrock is close to the surface and all the building materials like sand are not sand, it's pulverized limestone, do you think this would be a good replacement for sand? Any advice is appreciated!
Same Scott! Advice I got was to bring in soil from the closest place possible that has a good clay mix. Its cost neutral if your own soil is poor and would require a great degree of sifting and mixing. Sometimes better to just bring the good stuff (costs money obviously) and then save on labor costs in construction (efficient labor etc).
Thank you for documenting your journey. We are seriously considering Sirewall for our project and I've basically binge-watched most of your episodes in the past couple of weeks. You mention that you have a sand gravel mixture, but is that the material found on site, or is all of it hauled in? We are planning to use a majority of local materials after an assessment from Sirewall, but I haven't been able to tell from your videos how much material was hauled in and how much was sourced on site. Also, how long does an average section of wall take you in man-hours, now that you have experience with it? I see that you have been releasing these videos since last year, but want to know how long it would really take to complete our project. Thanks!
We didn't source any of the material on site because in order to get the strengths desired the material has to be pretty pure. So in order to use onsite material we would need to build a filtering system to get organic material out and sizing correct. This proved more expensive and extensive than just sourcing the material from a quarry. If everything goes smooth (ie no equipment failure, weather issues, health issues, etc.) the walls take about 2 days to form and 2-3 days to ram.
That is so flattering, at the moment we haven't given much thought to bringing on interns but Kendall and I will chat through it and see what the next few years holds.
Does anybody know how long that foam insulation will last inside those walls? Will it need replacement after some years? How is that even possible in that case scenario?
I'm surprised they didn't just put a plug in a pipe before they rammed Earth on top of it. Then they can drill out the plug and have a nice round drain
I suggest using fiberglass rebar, instead of steel rebar. Steel rebar will eventually corrode, expand and crack the rammed earth or concrete. Rammed earth structures should last thousands of years. Building with steel rebar severely limits the longevity of your construction. steel rebar in earth structures lacks the aka line pH buffering capacity of concrete, and is more susceptible to rust and corrosion.
Anda membutuhkan atap yang bagus kuat dengan overhang yang baik, setidaknya satu meter. Juga dinding pondasi juga harus cukup tinggi agar air hujan tidak mengenai dinding tersebut.
Hi neighbors! I am free to provide labor in exchange for helping me build my rammed earth home! I have been following you for a while and have plans for a 1300 sf 2br 2ba rammed earth home in Colorado. I own 6 acres and am looking to do it myself and find like minded people to help me! If this is something you're interested in please let me know!
That's GREAT! The best advice I can give is to connect with SIREWALL. They have been amazing to work with and can help provide the knowledge needed to do it yourself. As far as a work exchange, we have a lot further to go on our project and can't really commit to other projects until ours is done. Able to provide tips and tricks but not labor at the moment.
Seems like an awful amount of forms and other bullshit for this to work. When you could have gotten the same type of building with Cob and much cheaper
These walls are beautiful. I might have to try coloring the layers on my project, too.
We have to put that in our PROCEDURE she said
That’s impressive
10 points for her 👍
You made my day today. Had a hard day at the factory, then I saw your update the wife and I sat back and enjoyed watching what you guys achieved 🤩🤩🤩. KEEP ON TAMPING 😊😊
That is so encouraging! Thank you so much! We are so glad we can bring some joy through our project
Can I buy a copy of your procedures? Curious as to how you decided to put together a process. Ive managed to build my own process over the years reading and watching RE videos but ive never actually done a project like you have. I am sure you have learnt many lessons!
I love the jagged lines...Wow!
Splendid! Keep yourself hydrated and sunblocked! Nice work, folks!
Seriously it has been quite a summer LOL
From UK - When I saw the different coloured striations in the rammed earth wall, I thought how beautiful! I'm very interested in sustainable building, originally trained as Civil Engineer - really enjoyed this video, keep up this excellent work.
Another beautiful wall! Every video I learn something new! I'm happy I've joined your adventure!
Beautiful solid walls. Lots of labor but will be worth it. 👍
We'll see :-D
I enjoy watching you guys do this, maybe one day I'll get to start on my own adventure in ramming earth too!
When you do, PLEASE let us know. We love hearing about others building their dreams too
Nice ! I cant wait for the finishing touch .
You and me both!
Great job, it's a masterpiece that touches the feeling, exactly what the planet needs
Really beautiful work!
Thank you so much 😀
Great work. Love hearing everyone's amazement during reveals.
It is amazing everytime
Fantastic effort guys. A tip I use. I don't drill for the rebar. But put 20mm plastic conduits in the wall when ramming. Then just slide rebar in. You walls look great so rewarding. Keep it up.
That's an interesting idea! Does the rebar still provide structural strength when it isn't touching the inside of the wall?
@@RedEarthRanch its the same as a drilled hole you have to slide the rebar into the hole so there is still movement. Here is a vid. ruclips.net/video/KEnhStMwhZY/видео.html BUT I now put 2 rebars either side of the 20mm rod as well going into the wall.
Thinking about this idea... i think it would provide a shear strength if the fit was tight enough, And allow for miniscule movement, possibly reducing cracks (between wall sections) from temperature or ground swell movements. One side slid into the pipe and the other exposed would ensure a constant contact, and any (up to about half the diameter of the pipe wall) compression would be absorbed by the inserted pipe while allowing the wall to move independantly to resist cracking. Granted, any major movement would result in sheer force cracks between wall sections where the rebar is installed bare, and cracks would appear between sections with plastic pipe being used, but i believe the movement between sections would need to be even more extreme. I am no engineer, but the physical movement between walls will eventually (hopefully not for another 500 years or so) happen, and cracks will eventually happen as a result. Using the plastic pipe as a "shock absorber" or cushion, as an internal mechanism does not seem a bad idea. I have watched videos about how to stop cracks on cinder block walls, and they are now built to allow for movement, using thin sheets or stripes of metal, and intentionally cutting the walls to create joints. The walls move at the joints but are held in place by those thin strips. I was thinking you don't have any sheer joints... was wondering if cracking would start once a few corners got tied into the structure. I hope not, but being caught up in the excitement of what you are doing, i never thought about it until i read this comment.
Wow Guys absolutely amazing. Love the colours and patterns… well done. We see your understanding what you need to do …. Suggestion for you. If you pack wet sand in your pvc wall penetration and seal it off with duck tape. Should keep them from collapsing..🙂🙂🙂
Keep on Tamping 🤪
You are absolutely correct and we will be doing this next time. All part of the learning process and we are so thankful to have a community of people with WAY more experience than us. Thanks so much for the tip!
beautiful wall!
Thank you!
Good luck with that flat roof pitch. Beautiful walls.
Thank you! hopefully it will work :-/
When you rebuild your forms next, make sure the screws are recessed (like you did last time) and laminate a layer of formica or melamine with a heavy duty glue... no through screws.
Good call! We will have to try that
Aww hey, I'm glad your brother gets to use power tools now!! I feel partially responsible for that. Proud of you my boy! :-D
enjoying the journey by the way - and fair play to your bro for taking the comment the right way - Please make that t-shirt, I'll buy :-D - love from Ireland
The bubbling on the walls or empty air packets is developed due to over tamping (ramming), displacing the moisture content and the finest materials to the bottom. It is probably done when you hand ramming. Greetings!
Interesting! Thanks for the heads up
great looking walls and great job on videoing and explaining... is that 2by 4 steel studding and form panels your using as forms? Clever is it is and is strong enough. i also like the icf turn buckle bracing system to support and plumb your walls. Thanks for videoing, we are hoping to build a RE
Looks amazing guys!! : )
Have you experimented with putting padding on your rammer head to stop it damaging the plywood form walls. I have seen industrial felt and fibre glass cloth used especially in some countries where ply is expensive .
I don't know how that would hold up over time, might be worth a try though
I wonder if you could have a piece of aluminum machined to fit each size of pipe your run through the wall?
Should keep the pipe from getting crushed or bent or use schedule 80?
Then pop the the aluminum filler piece out when done
muito bom o processo de construção dessa casa
Do you mind writing a book after this building exercise, for those that'll like to share from you wealth of knowledge on rammed earth. Nice work.
The walls look beautiful- well done!
Did you get your wall form/panel off a particular design?
Hey guys fill the drain pipes with building sand and that should give the pipe strength to withstand the pressure
For sure! We will need to do that next time. Thanks for the tip!
Hello guys! I'm a follower from Brazil.
I love the different colors of the rammed earth layers!
That's a very nice job!!
What if you put a piece of wood cut to the inside diameter of the pipe? Wouldn't that prevent it from moving during earth compaction, especially the drain pipe?
Hello Brazil
We actually had @Kyle Landau and @ Mel Lyons suggest using sand and I think that would work best because it would be easier to remove once the wall is in place. I would be concerned that the wood wouldn't come out after the weight of the wall was on it.
Over here we call rammed earth taipa de pilao. The ancient churches in ouro preto where built with a similar technique 400years ago. But they use crushed bricks ,lime and whales oil instead of cement because... Well cement was not invented yet
Huehue
I like the mistakes. They give a more human feel.
Just a thought - can you Fill the pipe with sand when you put it in the form and then it won’t compress under tamping?
That is a great idea and we will definitely do that next time. Thanks for the tip!
Nice idea! Adding that one to the list.
Next time, feel your pipes with wet soil before you put them in the wall. That way, they maintain their shape, and you can compact them without breaking them
Nice 👍 , ( moroccan building )
Loooove your project. I ve decided to build my own on my land in the Carribean. .. Do you have a builder's manual you can share or sell?
We don't have anything but SIREWALL does. I would reach out to them
Beautiful work guys! I've considered building with stabilized rammed earth for years and watching your videos brings me back around to the idea... Where I am we are basically on a limestone shelf, bedrock is close to the surface and all the building materials like sand are not sand, it's pulverized limestone, do you think this would be a good replacement for sand? Any advice is appreciated!
I honestly don't know. I'm not an expert by any stretch. I would reach out to SIREWALL and see what they say about the build site.
Same Scott! Advice I got was to bring in soil from the closest place possible that has a good clay mix. Its cost neutral if your own soil is poor and would require a great degree of sifting and mixing. Sometimes better to just bring the good stuff (costs money obviously) and then save on labor costs in construction (efficient labor etc).
Thank you for documenting your journey. We are seriously considering Sirewall for our project and I've basically binge-watched most of your episodes in the past couple of weeks. You mention that you have a sand gravel mixture, but is that the material found on site, or is all of it hauled in? We are planning to use a majority of local materials after an assessment from Sirewall, but I haven't been able to tell from your videos how much material was hauled in and how much was sourced on site.
Also, how long does an average section of wall take you in man-hours, now that you have experience with it? I see that you have been releasing these videos since last year, but want to know how long it would really take to complete our project. Thanks!
We didn't source any of the material on site because in order to get the strengths desired the material has to be pretty pure. So in order to use onsite material we would need to build a filtering system to get organic material out and sizing correct. This proved more expensive and extensive than just sourcing the material from a quarry.
If everything goes smooth (ie no equipment failure, weather issues, health issues, etc.) the walls take about 2 days to form and 2-3 days to ram.
Great job like always
I have serious question How I can apply
For intern
That is so flattering, at the moment we haven't given much thought to bringing on interns but Kendall and I will chat through it and see what the next few years holds.
@@RedEarthRanch Thank you very much I'm serious right now if you ever want to spend some time in Mexico Let me know
@@czependoza That is so kind! We will definitely let you know
Does anybody know how long that foam insulation will last inside those walls? Will it need replacement after some years? How is that even possible in that case scenario?
Go go go ! )
How you guys colouring the walls how the patterns came out? Please tell me if your using any oxide or what
Yes we are using 2 different iron oxide cement dyes.
High how thick does the concrete slab have to be for a rammed earth wall, thanks.
We did a 6 in slab with 3ft wide x 2ft deep footers. that's probably overkill but so is the whole project
Can you tell me which company s waterproofing camical you have used
I'm surprised they didn't just put a plug in a pipe before they rammed Earth on top of it. Then they can drill out the plug and have a nice round drain
To stabilize earth Can we replace cement with lime..,
I'm not sure. We had SIREWALL help us with the mix design. Their experience in this has been extremely helpful
How you going to deal with the electrical in the walls?
We plan on placing rigid conduit in the forms and ramming around it
Use metal pipes or just bore a hole after and insert it.
You could have used concrete first to secure the pipe then once dried put rammed earth on top of the concrete block encapsulating the pipe
That would have worked too.
I suggest using fiberglass rebar, instead of steel rebar. Steel rebar will eventually corrode, expand and crack the rammed earth or concrete. Rammed earth structures should last thousands of years. Building with steel rebar severely limits the longevity of your construction. steel rebar in earth structures lacks the aka line pH buffering capacity of concrete, and is more susceptible to rust and corrosion.
Ok 👌👌👌👌👌
itu klo kehujanen terus rusak tidak
Kami menambahkan bahan yang membuat air keluar
Anda membutuhkan atap yang bagus kuat dengan overhang yang baik, setidaknya satu meter. Juga dinding pondasi juga harus cukup tinggi agar air hujan tidak mengenai dinding tersebut.
Do people really need cement?
Hi neighbors!
I am free to provide labor in exchange for helping me build my rammed earth home! I have been following you for a while and have plans for a 1300 sf 2br 2ba rammed earth home in Colorado. I own 6 acres and am looking to do it myself and find like minded people to help me! If this is something you're interested in please let me know!
That's GREAT! The best advice I can give is to connect with SIREWALL. They have been amazing to work with and can help provide the knowledge needed to do it yourself. As far as a work exchange, we have a lot further to go on our project and can't really commit to other projects until ours is done. Able to provide tips and tricks but not labor at the moment.
Esse cano na base da parede vai diminuir a durabilidade da parede.
Seems like an awful amount of forms and other bullshit for this to work. When you could have gotten the same type of building with Cob and much cheaper
Yeah sure, but it's not the same outcome.
Slide a thick steel sheet inside the pvc pipe.