Another top-notch video! My '47 Fleetmaster had undoubtedly been driven for many years with an out-of -balance or out-of-round tire, and the bushings in the left front shock were badly worn. This is why we take care of problems instead of driving on! The top of the wheel could move about 1/2" fore and aft! I shipped them to a place in NY that rebuilt them - but incurred an extra charge because one of the pistons was stuck down in the bore. Probably a good thing I didn't see how it was removed..... All told, about $500 to rebuild the two. So far, the single most expensive job on the car. But quite necessary to make it safe to drive. Right now, there seems to be a shortage of door window channels. The humor in your videos, as well as references to lyrics, are greatly appreciated! I command the lightening's hand!
What a great video! I learned alot about the lever arm shock that I really knew nothing about. You explained it well. I have a 1940 Cadillac that has these kind of shocks. They may be built a little different but the general idea on gow they work should be similar to what you had in this video. Now I know what to look for when I get to that point in my restoration. Thanks
In 1965 I had a buddy with a very low mileage 39. He inherited it from grandma. Very pristine inside and out, always garaged and still shined. I don't remember the mileage but it was less than 25k. He had the coolest car at school.
Thank you for this video. I have been waiting for someone that knows what they are doing to post something like this for a long time. So again thanks for this video.
About time I found you. I’ve got a ‘48 Stylemaster Coupe that wanders down the road like a drunken sailor. Considering the fact it’s got a 400 hp 327 Chevy engine in it makes driving an adventure. As I’m not a rich man i can’t afford to replace the front end with a IFS Mustang 2. So, I’m left making my stock front end as reliable and capable as I can. Your presentation is phenomenal and I believe I’ll be able to make some improvements in the handling of my old Coupe.
Your 327 can't be that much more weight, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it's actually lighter than the old 216. Now, this is my opinion and my thoughts, we all have them. But for the life of me I can't figure out why guys jump on the mustang II or S-10 front end band wagon. Oh I realize that they are prevalent, cheap, lightweight, and simple. But in both cases your taking out a substantial front end and replacing it with something that was built as light and inexpensively as possible. Esp. in the case of the Mustang II, that car was awful. As you can see I like things original, so don't listen to me. By the way, pull the plugs on your shocks and try adding some power steering fluid first, maybe you'll get lucky and they'll go to working!
I really enjoy your vids and am learning a lot. I use you as a reference for my 38 Pontiac coupe. My 1st project and am very much a novice. Thank you for the verses, it blesses me
The first time I dealt with these kinds of shocks was on a 1967 MGB - they work the same. On the MGB it is also doubles as the upper A arm. These are $350+ each. It caused shakes at 55ish in my car and I tried to rebuild them and they just leaked out over several hundred miles. Don't do what I do but I did this to save the $700 and my idea I'm about to share worked! I drained the shocks (I think it was whale oil as it stunk like old fish) and filled them with contact cement... I just didn't have the $700 so I had to come up with something. Darn if it didn't work and it drove like a dream. Since then I have done this on many Lockheed & Armstrong lever shocks and it works very well. You don't look like you need to go that far here, but I just wanted to put this idea out there if you had one that was really shot like mine was. I can't recommend anyone do this but it's FAR safer than flopping useless shocks. In my world they sell different valves to make the shock stronger but my method works fine for me as I follow the rule of never drive a car on a road that is newer then the car - thus I never set foot on the interstates or anything over a 50MPH speed limit. I have a 1957 GMC, a TR4 and some other cars. I love the old girls but if I can save $$$ I do it. I am super safe and don't mind upgrading things but here is a place to keep cost down. Bobby
You mentioned you keep saying "packing". That's what the shop manual calls them too. They also say if the shock has been operating below the proper level, they will become worn and leak. Which the front ones on my 40 Master Deluxe were. The right side seemed to self heal, not so for the left. So far the rears are OK. Thanks for the videos!
they used to sell a rebuild kit for the shocks / in the days of JC whitney , i replaced mine with rebuilt or nos ones back in 1976-78 best i remember, they never did leak but i did buy hyd jack oil in case i still have it ha ha / i adapted modern tube shocks in rear . later on i put on new leaf springs sometime after 1984 , one had broke good job thanks
I had to do this on a 37 olds f37 resto mod i built for a old timer he wanted to keep the factory brakes steering and suspension but wanted a stove bolt 250 with dual carbs/ex and o/d it was 07 and he was 73 so to him thats a "real hotrod" car turned out awsome i slurry blasted off the grease and was able to put it back together perfectly the best way i found to do it is i use i internal spring compressor and lock the spring down to its plate remove plate with spring then you can remove the entire upper lower arms and spindle as one piece and do it on a bench
Hey Jay. Seeing I am going to be watching all of your videos and doing the same things on my 1940 Buick as you are doing, can you share with my where you purchase all of your parts. Thanks you for sharing all of you knowledge. 🍁🍁👍👍
I get as much as I possibly can from my local Bumper to Bumper parts store. That franchise is owner operated and of the 3 or 4 stores that I have used in my life I have never had a bad experience. The owners are also usually repair shop owners and know what they are about. Beyond that, I get them where I can find them. I didn't need too many parts for the Buick beyond generic battery cables and such. So I'm always checking out ebay and rockauto.com. For Chevy's I use chevsofthe40s a lot, or The Filling Station. I'm sure there are Buick specialty houses out there as well.
@@TheJayhawker Thanks Jay. I try to use the local auto supply shop to support local, but sometimes with these oldies the part are hard to get. So I am always looking for other ways to get what I need.
The closest I have is with this one: ruclips.net/video/fBZtM4-ZF0g/видео.html on this 48 Stylemaster you can watch the steering gear part starting at about 24:00
Thanks for your videos. Good info. I have a 1946 Chevy truck which has some things in common with the ‘48 Chevy. My truck is still a 6v and the battery gauge needle always goes to D when truck is on. I had the generator & starter cleaned & checked but still get the same reading. Any suggestions .
thanks for the vid I am just starting my 47 Olds series 77 and my knee actions are bad the front had been clipped already so I have disks any help on the tank would be very nice thanks
Ive seen in one of two eléctrica videos from u and what I want to ask u where did get the complete wiring set for my chevy 42 in america you know actually im visiting your country for 3 weeks im from México City and got a chevy 42 sorry for my bad english
Even the GM service techs back in the day simply removed leaking ones and replaced them as units. They did not rebuild them at the dealership. You can buy rebuilt shocks online from rebuilders like Apple Hydraulics, but you can also find them on ebay or amazon. But they are expensive. I hope to do a video in the future on tearing one down completely and seeing if it's something I can rebuild.
Not knocking your work but I would have converting it over to conventional shock absorbers also in 1949 and up cars started using conventional shock absorbers
Excelent video, great work.
Thank you very much sharing how the old knee action shocks work and fix.
No problem 👍
Another top-notch video! My '47 Fleetmaster had undoubtedly been driven for many years with an out-of -balance or out-of-round tire, and the bushings in the left front shock were badly worn. This is why we take care of problems instead of driving on! The top of the wheel could move about 1/2" fore and aft! I shipped them to a place in NY that rebuilt them - but incurred an extra charge because one of the pistons was stuck down in the bore. Probably a good thing I didn't see how it was removed..... All told, about $500 to rebuild the two. So far, the single most expensive job on the car. But quite necessary to make it safe to drive. Right now, there seems to be a shortage of door window channels. The humor in your videos, as well as references to lyrics, are greatly appreciated! I command the lightening's hand!
Thank you for the information. I have a 1949 Chevy 3100
Boy on my 46 Chevy coupe is on a 71 chevelle frame, little Fab work same wheel base, fit like a Glove ! Better Everything !👍😁
What a great video! I learned alot about the lever arm shock that I really knew nothing about. You explained it well. I have a 1940 Cadillac that has these kind of shocks. They may be built a little different but the general idea on gow they work should be similar to what you had in this video. Now I know what to look for when I get to that point in my restoration. Thanks
Thanks for coming along. I hope to soon have a complete teardown and rebuild video on this subject soon.
In 1965 I had a buddy with a very low mileage 39. He inherited it from grandma. Very pristine inside and out, always garaged and still shined. I don't remember the mileage but it was less than 25k. He had the coolest car at school.
Thank you for this video. I have been waiting for someone that knows what they are doing to post something like this for a long time. So again thanks for this video.
About time I found you. I’ve got a ‘48 Stylemaster Coupe that wanders down the road like a drunken sailor. Considering the fact it’s got a 400 hp 327 Chevy engine in it makes driving an adventure. As I’m not a rich man i can’t afford to replace the front end with a IFS Mustang 2. So, I’m left making my stock front end as reliable and capable as I can. Your presentation is phenomenal and I believe I’ll be able to make some improvements in the handling of my old Coupe.
Your 327 can't be that much more weight, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it's actually lighter than the old 216. Now, this is my opinion and my thoughts, we all have them. But for the life of me I can't figure out why guys jump on the mustang II or S-10 front end band wagon. Oh I realize that they are prevalent, cheap, lightweight, and simple. But in both cases your taking out a substantial front end and replacing it with something that was built as light and inexpensively as possible. Esp. in the case of the Mustang II, that car was awful. As you can see I like things original, so don't listen to me. By the way, pull the plugs on your shocks and try adding some power steering fluid first, maybe you'll get lucky and they'll go to working!
I really enjoy your vids and am learning a lot. I use you as a reference for my 38 Pontiac coupe. My 1st project and am very much a novice. Thank you for the verses, it blesses me
The first time I dealt with these kinds of shocks was on a 1967 MGB - they work the same. On the MGB it is also doubles as the upper A arm. These are $350+ each. It caused shakes at 55ish in my car and I tried to rebuild them and they just leaked out over several hundred miles. Don't do what I do but I did this to save the $700 and my idea I'm about to share worked! I drained the shocks (I think it was whale oil as it stunk like old fish) and filled them with contact cement... I just didn't have the $700 so I had to come up with something. Darn if it didn't work and it drove like a dream. Since then I have done this on many Lockheed & Armstrong lever shocks and it works very well. You don't look like you need to go that far here, but I just wanted to put this idea out there if you had one that was really shot like mine was. I can't recommend anyone do this but it's FAR safer than flopping useless shocks. In my world they sell different valves to make the shock stronger but my method works fine for me as I follow the rule of never drive a car on a road that is newer then the car - thus I never set foot on the interstates or anything over a 50MPH speed limit. I have a 1957 GMC, a TR4 and some other cars. I love the old girls but if I can save $$$ I do it. I am super safe and don't mind upgrading things but here is a place to keep cost down. Bobby
Thank you for this video. Very interested in seeing the rest of the project's for this car, king pins, stabilizer bar, etc
Hey Kevin, good to hear from you! Hope you guys are doing well, and not freezing yet!
You mentioned you keep saying "packing". That's what the shop manual calls them too. They also say if the shock has been operating below the proper level, they will become worn and leak. Which the front ones on my 40 Master Deluxe were. The right side seemed to self heal, not so for the left. So far the rears are OK. Thanks for the videos!
they used to sell a rebuild kit for the shocks / in the days of JC whitney , i replaced mine with rebuilt or nos ones back in 1976-78 best i remember, they never did leak but i did buy hyd jack oil in case i still have it ha ha / i adapted modern tube shocks in rear . later on i put on new leaf springs sometime after 1984 , one had broke good job thanks
Good job. Enjoyed it. You make it look easier then when I do it on my 41s. Do too!
Great info here thank you. I'm looking at getting a '47 Stylemaster coupe and just gathering info.
I had to do this on a 37 olds f37 resto mod i built for a old timer he wanted to keep the factory brakes steering and suspension but wanted a stove bolt 250 with dual carbs/ex and o/d it was 07 and he was 73 so to him thats a "real hotrod" car turned out awsome i slurry blasted off the grease and was able to put it back together perfectly the best way i found to do it is i use i internal spring compressor and lock the spring down to its plate remove plate with spring then you can remove the entire upper lower arms and spindle as one piece and do it on a bench
Hey Jay. Seeing I am going to be watching all of your videos and doing the same things on my 1940 Buick as you are doing, can you share with my where you purchase all of your parts. Thanks you for sharing all of you knowledge. 🍁🍁👍👍
I get as much as I possibly can from my local Bumper to Bumper parts store. That franchise is owner operated and of the 3 or 4 stores that I have used in my life I have never had a bad experience. The owners are also usually repair shop owners and know what they are about. Beyond that, I get them where I can find them. I didn't need too many parts for the Buick beyond generic battery cables and such. So I'm always checking out ebay and rockauto.com. For Chevy's I use chevsofthe40s a lot, or The Filling Station. I'm sure there are Buick specialty houses out there as well.
@@TheJayhawker Thanks Jay. I try to use the local auto supply shop to support local, but sometimes with these oldies the part are hard to get. So I am always looking for other ways to get what I need.
Where’d you buy the kingpin set from?
i have some new coil springs i got on sale from chevs of 40s i hope to put them in soon do you have a video for that job yet ?
I've been told I'm special before 😆 & you are quite the wrencher.. pretty fast id say haaaahaaa
Jack oil is the best to use.. not atf. It will leak after a few months and ruin the rubber seal.
Is there a drain plug for the front and rear module?
Do you have a video on how to tighten a steering box on a 46 Chevy pick up?
The closest I have is with this one:
ruclips.net/video/fBZtM4-ZF0g/видео.html
on this 48 Stylemaster you can watch the steering gear part starting at about 24:00
whihat do we do if the pistons inside r seased
Thanks for your videos. Good info. I have a 1946 Chevy truck which has some things in common with the ‘48 Chevy. My truck is still a 6v and the battery gauge needle always goes to D when truck is on. I had the generator & starter cleaned & checked but still get the same reading. Any suggestions .
Do you notice this primarily at idle or even cruising down the road?
@@TheJayhawker I notice it at idle & driving.
@@TheJayhawker All the time
any links to where you bought the rear absorber links?
These were NOS off of ebay. An old Chevy parts house like chevsofthe40s.com or fillingstation.com will have them as well.
thanks for the vid I am just starting my 47 Olds series 77 and my knee actions are bad the front had been clipped already so I have disks any help on the tank would be very nice thanks
I have a 38 Buick have to try this
beautiful car! I have a short playlist of videos working on a '38 Special
Ive seen in one of two eléctrica videos from u and what I want to ask u where did get the complete wiring set for my chevy 42 in america you know actually im visiting your country for 3 weeks im from México City and got a chevy 42 sorry for my bad english
YNZ's yesterdays parts
i have a 39 lasalle and a 1950 packard with these shocks how you put seals in these
Even the GM service techs back in the day simply removed leaking ones and replaced them as units. They did not rebuild them at the dealership. You can buy rebuilt shocks online from rebuilders like Apple Hydraulics, but you can also find them on ebay or amazon. But they are expensive. I hope to do a video in the future on tearing one down completely and seeing if it's something I can rebuild.
Not knocking your work but I would have converting it over to conventional shock absorbers also in 1949 and up cars started using conventional shock absorbers
Putting my car jack under the shock just lifts the entire car whats going on
And More "Skrappen Sie Schmutz"...
🤣🤣🤣
It`s time for a lift, you are working too hard.