Tales Of The Spark Plug. Engine Tuning By Reading Plugs
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- A plug reading run with our Plan Z Slant Six revealed an unexpected and unusual problem with our Holley carb.
Here's what we found and the deductive reasoning we used to find it.
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“You know, it felt good so you just stay in it a little bit” that’s how kids are born Tony.
New Tee shirt slogan... mmm nah.... :)
Don't drink and park, accidents cause people.
@@ianide2480 Yeah, and usually not good people. Usually the Charles Mansons and the Unabombers of the world.
He was pushing instead of pulling 🤣😂
Alabama the band...🎶Mmmm mmm Mmmm feels so right 🎶😂🤣
All the old hot rodders told me, read your plugs, Read Your Plugs, READ YOUR PLUGS! they showed me the basics but Tony has expounded greatly on this! Thanks UT!
he talks to much
Back in '72 I put a turbo assembly off a 315 cu in Olds Rocket on the slant 6 in my'65 Belvedere I. I used the single barrel side draft carb from the Olds along with all the associated parts ( methanol injection, waste gate, etc.). That thing ran like a raped ape, but my fuel economy went down the toilet. I re-jetted the carb myself, no jets or metering rods were available so I made my own. Got my fuel economy back and it still ran like a raped ape. I was pretty good with jetting carbs from racing motorcycles, but THAT was a challenge AND a wonderful learning experience.
This👆 children of the internet, is someone who's forgotten more about the ICE yesterday we'll ever know.(no offense Uncle)
We are not allowed to say "Raped Ape" any more. I believe the politically correct name they are forcing us to use is "Sexually Molested Primate". I agree that it does not illicit the same sense of just how fast your car was running but, remember the same people that regulate our speech want to eliminate all cars as well.
Most Deres had big blocks and the olds rocket never had side drafts. The deres started the Fury frenzy 318 to 440 and those were lead sleds. The 904s were crap and the tq flights only worked as stem slammers so trans were garbage if you had an auto. I blew out lots of 904s shredded bolts on flex plates warpage and burnt tq converters. 58 this year back in 72 was flood agnes my dad lost 2 mopars in that flood one a Dodge custom 318 pushbutton trans other was a 440 police intercepter Fury III.
ruclips.net/video/UzsNMERC35I/видео.html this ones awesome
@@johngebhartiii7088 Wow, that is a beautiful car. 5 years older than mine but I really like that 2-door body style. Mine were 4 door. Sounded nice too when he started it up. I wonder what they were asking for it?
The lesson I learned is always go to waffle house after a night of runs.
Now I want waffles
Burts Chili here….😂
you got that backwards
There are too many shootings at Waffle Houses.
the W in Waffle House is silent
Now that’s troubleshooting. I love the way you explain the thought process. As a career electrician, troubleshooting is part of what I do. Cars are a love but not a daily play for me. I love to see a fellow troubleshooter sharing knowledge. Awesome content Sir.
This is why I watch UTG every.. single.. day.. Uncle Tony, I've learned more from UT's channel than most others *combined*. I picked up a UTG T-shirt earlier this summer and will continue to support the channel in every way possible; please take a moment to do the same for UT. Like, subscribe, send up smoke signals... whatever you can to help UT to continue making the best content on the interwebs. I'm in the throws of rebuilding a largely neglected 68 Mustang coupe and UTG has helped me with more aspects of my build than he'll ever know. I may not have stolen a bus (yet), but I'm learning the way of the gearhead monk.
Your story is exactly why I love to have an air/fuel ratio gauge mounted in my car.
Awesome episode! When the rubber meets the road! You are not afraid to show the good the bad or the ugly. True hot rod gold in the 21st century. I have learned so much from your shows. Thanks for going the extra mile to make top tier RUclips content.
Some things i remewber about running a big carb. on a small engine ; 1 drill the idle air bleeds, 2drill outwhere the idle mixture screws to almost diament of these screws ,3 also incrase the taper i use wet/dry sandpaper 4 this , 4 i heard of lowering the float level - Maybe prevent rain ? don,t know ? On a friends 302 sbf power valves Never worked but straight jeting was o.k. best wishes U.T.G.
Anybody else notice this video is 1320 long? BRAVO TONY !!!!!!!
If the track isn't a quarter mile, it ain't drag racing.
@@bradlawson8678 So you would rather have no tracks to run on than a 1/8 mile?
I see 13:21?? 🙄🙄
@@DavidStirm now thats weird. 1320 on my laptop.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I was wondering. He said 1320 mine definitely display 1321. I was thinking why would he just make that up lol 😆
When a mechanic buddy told me to fix my first motorcycle in the 70's, and he told me about plug heat ranges and what a plug should look like (the same color as the filter on my cigarettes) the light switched on and I've never looked back. I even use that on my modern EFI/OBD2 systems as a primary method of determining fuel metering for my favourite RPM to back up code information. Makes perfect sense....
There are those who are smart and skilled, those who are wise, those who are passionate, and those who are entertaining. But rarely do you find all of that in a gearhead.
Good stuff big guy.
soon UTG will show us how to build a budget dry sump oiling system.
I posted how to do this in the previous vid. Use a belt driven hydraulic pump for a single stage scavenge and the stock oil pump for pressure.
@@bobroberts2371 Yeah, old skool.
At least he show us something.
Are these builds really budget builds when all you do is work on them cause every part fails?
@UCmZp5lsovHkt6ywHDd90suw totally agree..my time is worth much more..being a slave to these builds is not fun.I enjoy uncle Tony's channel greatly but all this time and effort to go 14 or 15 seconds in 1/4 mile is absurd
Perfect explanation of how to do this. Sparking plugs do speak in tongues or is it Pig latin? Over the past few years on Webers & Edelbrocks in my stable I've just gone to air/fuel meters. Yes it's kinda expensive and drilling holes in the exhaust ain't fun but at least welding is not such a thing on the bungs anymore. I've found this to be the tool to shine the light on range of mixture reading... cold, hot, idle, load up and down hills... etc. The mystery is now on a gauge right there and so easy to deal with. I think this is like welding. Learn with a stick welder then get the fancy wire welder. Learn from the start. Learn to read plugs then get an air/fuel meter - earn your stripes! Good bare bones tech you offer - as always. Good luck on the oil pan issue and I'll be following. Bobby
Best explanation and breakdown of events ive ever seen awsome!
Sorry to be a naysayer on the downdraft concept but there is a reason triple/double webers are the gold standard for high performance in line applications. I have done SU, Weber and downdraft on 4 and 6 cyl and what a good set of tuned webers does is amazing.
Great video Uncle Tony! I learn more in five minutes from you than from anywhere else! Thanks!
Wow...gold such knowledge will be lost soon thank God someone is putting it in a video for future generations great deductive work may the Lord bless you and your channel
Awesome lesson on spark plug reading. That kind of wisdom comes from experience and it's usually bad experience where the lesson is learned. Keep it up Tony.
Thank goodness for my algorithm feed ;) ✊🏼
I'm glad to hear staggered jets. That is hard for bought not built people to understand.
I simply use a Dremel with a wire brush to clean the fouling off in order to get a read on my plugs. Been working great for decades! Doing multi RPM throttle chops is critical when trying to tune....
See the "cleaning plugs with fire" video .
If it's a Holley get yourself adjustable metering block that controls the idle air bleeds circuit, with a small cube engine you need to change the air bleed to give it more responsiveness or to rid of the bog, I did this to a 465 changed the metering plate with air bleed and now it spins the wheels on take off no bog or hesitation.
Your knoledge and expirence is invaluable but to have the knowledge and experience best of both worlds.
Re: sump oil pressure issues. In the 70s when the Ford boys in Australia were circuit racing clevo 51s, even the factory teams were blowing engines like roman candles. To keep within homologation rules, Ford Australia engineers developed a sump with "ears" on each side of the stock sump to increase volume taking cap out from 6 odd quarts to over 8. They put them into production at the factory and kerbed the 351c grenades. Picked up many Bathurst and points round wins in these super competitive times. Im thinkin increase volume by 2 to 3 quarts and the usual baffle windage/ magic. At bathurst and other tracks the clevos used to near suck the sump dry with the small sumps at 7k plus leading to engine failure. and yeah- boom. Just showing you some ocha history.
When I tune my drag mini bike I pop in a new plug and do a pull but I shut it off during the pull ( at what ever rpm and throttle position I want to check). Helps get a tru read of what's going on at part and full throttle I was having a rich idle/part throttle and lean full throttle. So I jetted down the idle circuit and jetted up the main circuit
Well what did it run? Between bottle rocket and plan Z been to track at least 6-7 times and still can’t make a decent pass this is getting to be like watching 16 year kid kids that just started playing with cars. Cmon will any of you’re cars ever make a pass without a 15 min excuse
I realize you're an asshat just stirring shit, but this deserves to be answered. This entire series, as well as Bottle Rocket are exercises in budget building unusual combinations, and then sorting through their issues.
We did not build these cars because they were easy, turn-key things. We build them because they are challenging and out of the box. They represent combinations of things I have never worked with before, and that is exactly why I chose them.
An "excuse" has NEVER been given on this channel. Explanations and work-through of issues are the ACTUAL CONTENT, not excuses.
@@UncleTonysGarage can I borrow the word "asshat" when it is appropriate? I promise to give you credit for the term
He already said swapping the 440 out of that old black charger into plan z would work very well but he might not want to go that fast .Two barrel carb would have better to start off with than max that out then try the four barrel later.
@@honda350racer6 He never said that he didn't want to go that fast...he said it didn't represent a challenge.
Its not how fast you go, its how you go fast!
Uncle tony never disappoints
We used to do this all the time also can look at the exhaust tips for similar results.
Exactly the sort of sorcery I come to learn from Uncle Tony!
Reminds me of a guy back in high school in the 70's who was running a tunnel ram with dual Holey 650 double pumpers on a stock Chevy 283, with stock single exhaust, in his Impala. Sure it looked cool but it barley ran and when it did, it ran like crap. I was only running a single Holley 650 on my worked over 440 with a Purple shaft cam and medium high rise intake, headers and dual glass pack exhaust and it took me a little time to get that tuned in so it ran perfectly.
I ran a 427 chevy with a nice cam mid-size port heads and small headers, 650 DP Holley. I worked it up a bit. Milled off the choke horn and set up the rest of it. It pulled strong and had a sharp throttle, sure it wasn't a high rpm screamer but drove great and had strong mid-range. You dont always need a giant carburetor...
Had a 72 Satellite LA built in canada balanced blueprinted with factory 3/4 cam. Put a 2p180 intake on it a carter afb with 2 one inch alum spacers and hedman headers with dual thrush birdies to attempt to silence it. 2 and1/4 inch exhaust think specs called for 52 and a half inches per side to get max hp from long header to exit. Other than advancing timing to 13 degree btdc and plugging the vacuum distributer it ran perfect.
@@johngebhartiii7088 The 440 I built was a 1970 Police interceptor. I actually owned 2 of them but only built one, I used the other as a daily driver. It had 10.5:1 compression, was bored .030 over, and had a Mallory dual point ignition with a 50k volt coil. I kept the original cop rear end gears and had the A727 Trans rebuilt complete with a shift kit. That thing would fly. I was once clocked by a Kentucky State trooper doing 152 in a 55 back in the 1970's. He was cool and wrote me up for 74 as anything over that he said would mean I would be arrested. He made me get out and open the hood. Then he had me start the engine so he could hear it. He told me the Crown Vics they drove would not go over 135. My Fury got a little over 20 mpg which was pretty good for that big a car in 1977. At 70, it was only turning 1900 rpm and , if you were wide open, it would hit 100 before it shifted out of 2nd! Redline was at 6,000 but it was set up to shift at 5,700. I miss those cars.
My 1st car was a 351 Cleveland powered Australian Ford Falcon
I thought my dad was the greatest when he put a tunnel ram and twin point Mallory dizzy on it
6 months later when he new i wouldn't kill myself he swapped back to single 4 barrel and re curved the distributor, holy sheet did it go then
That's when i realized my father actually cared for me 😂
@@huski300 Had a 65 two door guy I got it from put a 302 boss in it. Gave him fits fitting that motor in. Can imagine the 351 was a shoehorn fit as well. Check out SRC he runs a 61 but I think its a chevy LT in that.
What about adding a two step? The throttle blades will be open and you’ll not be relying on the accelerator pump. My friend used a two step with a c4 footbrake trans and it worked pretty well.
I'm not ruling that out as a possibility, but I'd rather fix it right than resort to a crutch
Uncle Tony's Garage I understand what you’re saying, but a two step on a strip only car isn’t really a crutch.
Wow... That was a master class on deductive reasoning there UT.
Maybe you need to don a deerstalker hat and curved pipe.
Solid reasoning. Sounds like it needs a smaller carb, or different boosters.
thank you sir Uncle Tony
Excellent video Tony
Thanks UTG
I'm new thanks to DD Speedshop. I enjoyed the video and I look forward to more!
Looking through Facebook dim RUclips videos and bam, you’ve got a thumbnail of my home town track, buffalo valley!
1987 thunder road in barre vermont went to 6 cylinders,of course it ws a tube chassis on a 61 lancer body,real light but i made the oil pan,7 quarts,deep sump with crank baffles,it was a modified on asphalt circle track,and mad my own intake for 3 side draft 1 1/ SUs,lol, i won a lot of races,the next year they went back to v8s
I lost all concentration when you said Waffle House!! All I could think about was a double plate of hash browns, scattered, smothered and topped, sweet tea too.🤤😋
Mmmm yummy 🤤
"scattered, smothered and topped," a man of culture I see
I forgot to say covered!😲🙄
Dominic at Thumper carbs really knows his stuff too!!
Very good video Tony
Click bait thought you was at the track shoulda known 🙄
I have a haunted cylinder 5 in my 318 … about once a year or so, it cracks the porcelain on the plug. Normal wear but crack - all other cylinders fine … I might have to install the new ones with a drop of holy water!
It cracks on the combustion side of the plug or the wire side?
@@bobroberts2371 wire side
@@DScaglione. Does the plug fall apart?
If it does, there is an install problem or maybe something hitting the plug.
If not, you are likely seeing a carbon track from a failed plug boot. It goes like this, plug gap gets big causing firing voltage to rise. Spark flashes over from the terminal to shell causing a carbon track on the plug insulator and boot. Plug is changed, miss fire goes away however carbon track is still on boot. Plugs wear a little, firing voltage goes up however carbon track on boot makes an easy path causing a miss fire / carbon tracking on plug.
Interesting situation! Inclined to believe it is simply to much carburetor. Sticking w/ Holley, the Street Avenger 390 cfm(from memory model 8007) seems like it might offer a more consistent result. Assuming the goal in vacuum is around 7.5; using the 390 w/slightly detuned transfer-slots(base-plate adjust) and a lower octane fuel, like say 93 pump-gas as well as a nice 1.25-1.50" anodized spacer seem to me like a good place to experiment. In my view proper atomization is going to be a chore w/ that intake in general, and quite possibly less is more. Glad you got to run at the track!
Tony, I learned a bit about how to read plugs on 2 strokes. Same procedure, warm bike up on regular plugs, swap to new and give her hell through all the gears, just cut the ignition at top end and remove the plugs. Why? Because the partial throttle rips will ruin the plug read. I don't like taking a hacksaw to expensive plugs, but it is the best way to read the burned on ring of the plugs.
I'm sure its different for a 4 stroke, but it's so similar at the same time it hurts.
See some comments in the past negative about your stuff I have been watching religiously these people don't know I've been doing this for a long time your knowlidge and experience is the best love you brother!!
"if it feels good, stay in it" words to live and die by....
A whole lot of us are here only because of that philosophy.
I’m waiting for that t-shirt to come out!
😂
With such a small motor with poor atomization you could probably use a small Street Demon or small Edelbrock AVS2. The triple stacked boosters or annular discharge boosters of the AVS2 would probably help.
I aspire to be a wizard like you one day ❤
In order to read the main jet mixture properly you must cut the plug shank off and inspect the mixture ring at the base of the insulator. The top part of the insulator should be no other color than white when performing a plug chop. Indeed the top section of the insulator will have color if the mixture is pig rich because cylinder temperatures are not high enough to keep that part of the plug clean i.e. rich. Just my 2 cents....love your vids!
Awesome U.T.
I mention, or show someone how to read spark plugs and they look at me like I'm magician or an idiot...
I tell them you can nail a tuneup dead on by reading plugs and using a pyrometer and they're completely lost.
Keep teaching the "black art" of tuning "Uncle Merlin"!!!!
I remember way back in the day, it was a really big deal for the more prominent NASCAR teams to have an expert plug reader who worked for the spark plug manufacturers, right there at the track, inspecting plugs under heavy magnification. But nowadays, I think their engine builders are so advanced, that they can read the plugs themselves.
looking forward to the results.on a big tire truck,i replaced the horns feeding to carb two sizes smaller to help with just off idle throttle stumble.
I am not sure , when ever i used a carb or carbs too big for an engine the carbs then required very large jets to compensate for low draw through the venturi , and if i remember correctly you have removed the PV's which is neg 10 sizes approx aswell. Good Luck with it
Annular boosters might be the answer. The best carburetor I ever had was a 9380 Holley .
I was thinking the same.
Maybe you could hunt down a second hand oil accumulator, or try and fab one yourself, they are a pretty simple bit of kit. Tube, floating piston, air on one side and oil on the other much like a shock absorber.
I love these videos. You have a great teaching ability. Thanks
Gotta love the easy rider helmet i have the same one since about 1980 keep the videos coming uncle Tony
65 years young ) had a helmet just like that. As a pup. When I got my Rupp. Minibike )) was 7 years old ) Ride on ))
62 years old and have the same helmet for the last 50 + years and still ride with it on my little old 66 FLH, and if anybody asks those DOT approved stickers came on it.
Thank you for your insights and video 🙂❤👍PS: Great video came at perfect timing for me when I was looking at my plugs.
Now gotta go back n look what carb youre using, I cant remember!! But off the top of my head, maybe a "hole" spacer for better air velocity(and atomization), and/or use a softer pump shot by changing linkage?
I'm pretty sure using my head won't get me the same results as your head with your experience. Really great vidio. Thank you Unk.
I leaned towards to big a accl pump nozzle size or move the accl pump cam to another position
But boosters ...I missed that, but I'm not looking at it, hearing it, much less also driving it. You da man! This channel is killin me. I want another beater to thrash on so badly...alas
Awhile back I suggested a 500 cfm carb. I am sticking to my guns. I had a buddy in high school had the same issue with an Olds 442 that he built up. I would run against him with my built 250 straight 6 Ford in my 67 Falcon. I had half the cu. In. And spanked him over and over. After the third or fourth time he got really upset. No matter what he did his car was a dog and it hurt his pride to be shut down an inline 6 banger. I got to talking to him one day and decided to help him out. He was way over carbed and simply drowning his engine. He figured if big was good, bigger was better. I was running a 500 cfm quadrajet. That carb was almost more than that engine could handle. I get what you are getting at with your issues. Need that high vacuum affect to atomize the gas vapor better. Sometimes to easy of air flow drops the vacuum effect through the carb and venturi and changes the dynamics. Try jetting a 500 cfm and see if it helps.
500 cfm Quadrajet ?
iirc , Rochester only made Quadrajets in 750 CFM and 800 CFM variants .
Even the little 301 Pontiacs , 305 Chevies , and 307 Oldsmobiles got 750 CFM Quadrajets.
@@Richie_the_Fixer My last street rod was a 1963 chevy short box fleet side pickup. Very light and lots of motor room. I built up a small block out of a 71 chevelle that had been recked. I was getting 412 hp on the dyno with just basic bolt on changes and a very mild midrange cam. I built it to have fun with and pull my boat. I used a 2 inch Aluminum high rise intake manifold and a 650 cfm quadrajet clone from Edelbrock. Dual headers , collectors and turn outs into dual leg pipes down the sides. No mufflers. I could run just over 12's all day long on the strip but could not break through the wall. I made 3 jet and rod changes before it dialed in. It was throaty off the line and really opened up after about 2500 rpm's. I put a 750 cfm carb on it and it was too much. I had a built up 401 and it loved a 750 cfm carb. I did not feel like writing this much on my phone to explain but there it is and now you have some background for my statement and yes in the past you could get 500 cfm Rochester and Carter carbs.
You blanked off the power valve, supplying too much fuel off idle for a small engine, reinstalling one with a low number valve so it gradually enriches as the vacuum drops off at higher rpm, might help??
A little extra gas at 8:20? 🤣
lol no, I stepped on something crunchy when I was moving my foot while filming. No idea what it was. I forgot to try and take it out in editing.- Kathy
Nah! Leave it! Its funny!!!👍🏻😄
those plugs showing "lean" with carbon on one side are fuel washed bet if you clocked the plug it would face right at the intake valve. I would look into a drop the discharge size and accelerator pump cam I think pink is the slowest lift curve
Plug Chops are essential. I had the same problem with an oversized carb.
Everything UT is saying here is gold from the past. Knowing how to do this is a good skill that every person that tinkers with old cars should know. The only thing I disagree with, is that plug readings will tell you everything you need to know, because that is not the case. If it was, the other circuit adjustments would be obvious, and that is never the case plug readings. Plug readings are limited to loads you can hold it in for extended periods, then shut it down. Learning to read the plugs (just as UT is suggesting), investing in a wide band set up with a knock sensor, and a vacuum gauge, is better way to go past what UT is sharing here. You don't need new plugs for every step in tuning with a wideband setup. A wideband makes tuning all the circuits in the carb far easier. It is far easier to tell what circuit actually needs corrected, and how far the circuit needs adjusted to correct it once you know what was in that circuit to begin with. (there is an art to that as well, that is not that hard to learn either) So, you can buy tons of plugs, spend hours changing them for every step in the tuning, or install a wideband setup with a knock sensor and tune it (possible with the first set of plugs). If you are running boost or plan too, a wideband setup with a knock sensor is a must, not an option. Widebands are also able to display information of when you need to shut it down as well. (lean out, etc) Plugs cant tell you that while the engine is running. I am old school, but I also embrace technology that makes things far easier as well. Again, what UT shared here is gold from the past. Things that some people may not know. I used to teach tech students the same things. But I also recommended that they learn how to embrace technology that makes it far easier after they understand the older ways of doing it before that tech was affordable.
hey my first comment on your videos. but here goes, slant six is my go to engine in everything :P and it suffers from Pore distrebution and aussispeed has some modernised intake manifolds that have alot better fuel distrebution then the old offenhouser. just a suggestion to check them out. cilynder 6-1 are lean, 5-2 are just right and 4-3 are to fat is what i learned for the doug dutra book maby that is somthing to look in to :) hei from norway and good luck in all your /6 endeavors.
Awsum !!! Learned a little bit more !!!! Thanks.
Just a thought on pan wonder if a oversized pan with a custom deeeep pocket where u can make a longer pickup tube
Thanks UTG! Been waiting for you to do this video for a long time!!
It took me years before I learned to shut down to read properly. Before that I was all over the shop.
Love this project... needs less carb. The engine only going to pull 325 to 375 cfm at 5000. Going to be difficult to tune off idle thru WOT with that holley. Do you have a 450 or something you can try?
I'm certainly not a carburetor wizard by any stretch. I'll readily admit that. But it seems to me that the solution is to shift the stagger more towards the secondary and less from the primary, but just by a little bit. There may be value in messing with the boosters too, but I'd try altering the stagger just a little first, because it is low hanging fruit. I think you are pretty close in your initial guess. But yes, you definitely need to fix your windage/baffle issue or the carb work wont mean anything. If you can alter the choke a bit to delay opening all the way when you stomp on the gas, like a dash pot/damped spring of some sort in the linkage you should be able to restrict flow enough to increase the velocity through the primary to improve atomization too. Remember Hooke's law, for a given mass of air, volume and velocity are inverses.
We used to do something kinda similar with oil wells in which the formation pressure had fallen off and there wasnt enough gas flow velocity to bring the fluids up along with it. We would put a smaller sized production tube (an old piece of coiled tubing that was no longer usable typically) hung from a combination packer (annular plug)/tubing hanger (kinda self explanatory) to restrict the flow like an orifice to speed up the gas flow velocity in order to atomize the oil and make it flow more oil using the same formation gas pressure.
Still I'd go for a set of three carbs instead of one oversized 4-barrel. Setting the throttle linkage to match is far less hassle than tuning the impossible vacuum problem.
Tony, i new those slants would never run right, the first time i seen the rainbow arch manafold and Laying downwords. Easy Easy the worst engine made apart from gm stuff, i think we sould find tony a 265 hemi vellygrunt 6 pak webers. Would be a close run with the bottle rocket then. Mike
David Vizzard is your buddy? Damn, that guy literally wrote the book on small block Chevy performance engines. There are some cams ground to his name.
Uncle Tony has that Penske sheet metal I see. Love the videos. 😃
why do you use main jets to adjust afr? i know this is a race only car but that’s probably where the part throttle fatness came from. Maybe next time try jetting the pvcr’s.
I know i sound like a broken record, but you need to ditch the 4 barrel of a 2 barrel under 500cfm. That slant 6 head is not moving as much air as you seem to think it is. It's a small motor with a shitty head and doesn't turn any real RPM's.
That makes no sense, others are running the same size carbs and putting up some good numbers. This is just part of the game called tuning!
@@bigbear5510 every symptom he described is a symptom of over carburetion. Poor distribution is because he's not pulling enough vacuum to get proper atomization. I don't know what you think that slant 6 is pushing but at absolute best it's only making like 220hp and thats if he had the proper size carb on it
You couldn't be more wrong. The fact that the plugs came out white with jetting in the middle to high 70's means that this engine is moving a ton of air through it...it's asking for more.
The car that we featured...the Ruster, has the same head with similar porting, similar cam, less compression and weighs exactly the same, uses a 750 AFB...which would flow approximately 700 cfm in Holley terms, and it runs out just fine.
I'm learning and sorting here...give me a little time and this thing will fly
@@UncleTonysGarage I'll put this in a simpler way. Can a 750 be made to work on your engine? Yes. Why is it so hard to get set up when all it should take is simple jetting changes? Because that is way too much carb for what that engine requires or needs.
@@UncleTonysGarage This is RUclips where everybody that doesn't know squat knows everything!! When you get a good full hard pass, it will be an eye opener for most people.
Keep on what you're doing!!👍
Many years ago I was reading the plugs from a slant six and they said I should upgrade the power plant to a 340
Have you thought about a Holley 500 2bbl?
Holy smokes, uncle Tony should be detective Tony. What's up with the oil pan? All the oil gets away from the pick up under launch?
I had these problems with 2 stroke motors over the yrs after doing tons port work and diff carbs. But thats part of it I guess
Edit. Damn thing is runs great with good plug read at different rpm tryin test and read , then when the time comes it's all wrong. That computer efi stuff sure makes it easier but I still like my carbs ,, once it's figured out dead nuts, they run just as good
Sounds like your main air bleeds weren’t emulsifying the fuel in the mail-well properly. And that was causing the boosters to drip. Any update on this yet?
id try lowering the float level as a quick test some times thatll help with the boosters dripping worked on my 850 brawler anyways
I understand what you're saying, but this is a different kind of booster drip. This one does not happen at idle...only when the throttle is slightly open
@@UncleTonysGarage thats what mine was doing too part throttle cruze it would dump black smoke, idle was fine. Kinda same situation too the 850 is bigger than my 454 needs its a stock 454 with a junk efi cam. Their was just enough air flow to make the boosters drible at aroud 1500 rpm almost a syphon effect probably not your problem but may help some one
Thanks for the reply love the channel coming from a gm fanatic
Uncle, work with air jets. Put a really thin wire on them and low a bit the level of the float
Or even better, a thermoquad!
I'm thinking the power valve needs to be added back (instead of none/plugged), but size it tall (instead of 1/2 idle vacuum) go for 3/4 vacuum?
for numbers sake if idling at -15 inHg vacuum get a -10 inHg power valve. Makes the boosters kick in earlier, but with slight the delay needed for the transition so the cylinders can gulp the initial accelerator pump charge. Or am I completely off base here?
No, the issues is not the amount of fuel, but how the fuel is being atomized. It's dripping at small throttle openings and this feeding pure liquid to a few cylinders.
Whats the vacuum like on that slant? Put a bigger spacer to allow fuel longer time to atomize, and possibly lower rated power valves.
I was thinking wrong power valves as well. Bring a vacuum gauge into the dash.
Fuel is dripping directly from the boosters. A mile high spacer can't fix that
Uncle Tony how come the plugs you're showing don't have spark plug gaskets??
You need a spark plug magnifier to read fuel. I thought that you read fuel way down on the porcelain at the bottom of the insulator?
Tony, as far as the oiling goes, are you sure that the oil isnt partly pooling on the head? Not returning as fast as its pumped... its been along time but i seem to remember traveling that road with my old 74 duster. Someone once told me that i would have to do an external return from the rear of the head to the pan. I dont know because that car went with the wife in the divorce so goes life...
and after 40 sets of plugs "hmmm...probably should have just slapped 3 38DCOEs on it"... ;D
Nothing wrong with what your doing. But, there's a better way. Buy an a/f gauge. Its just a tool that saves time.
Nothing against an A/F gauge, but it won't tell me anything i can't see on the plugs, and it CAN'T tell me what the actual distribution is
@@UncleTonysGarage But, it will save you time.
In what way??? I have to pull the plugs anyway
@@UncleTonysGarage Why? Even if you did pull them once or twice to check heat range I'm sure tuning it by reading plugs and pushing it around the return road would be more work. I'm not knocking what your doing but I'm saying it's easier. No coasting down a dark return road at the track or anything just look at the gage. Iv done all that stuff with oxygenated fuel and additives in fuel it's hard to get a good read. The gage doesn't lie.
Great stuff Tone
I still think you should look at turning the carb 90 degrees for more even fuel distribution. If it could be done with just an adapter plate. I think this is part of your atomizing issue at least.