I think that’d be great as well! It seems like dfsw wasn’t given its best chance because the CEC is so low that after the bed dries out there is almost no fertilizer left. Charged biochar definitely seems like the move in low CEC soils.
1:30 daves swamp water 2:25 worm castings (good) 3:07 charged biochar (best) 3:37 dynogrow 4:25 urine 4:57 10x10x10 5:29 control bed 5:53 Steve Solomon’s mix 6:30 fish and seaweed fertiliser 7:12 lasagna bed (good) 8:24 alfalfa bed 8:50 cover crop
Also importantly, while avoiding the inherent dangers of zippers it remains advisable to realize that even at night said dogs are extremely difficult to sneak up upon and also that police officers have extremely bright flashlights... Or so I've heard.
I think dancing dog videos may beat out stupid cats that jump at walls and fail vids. You could break the internet if you could catch them on video at it. TRAIL CAM!
Thanks for sharing the update! I do lasagna method with added worm castings and has helped my sandy soil. I just got some biochar and will now add this to my setup after seeing the results on your video.
It looks like a good long term solution would be to use cover crops to increase soil humus content. Of course I'm not sure how long you intend to stay there so... The biochar was pretty impressive. Have you tried soaking biochar in your swamp water mix?
I have almost the exact same soil her in the FL panhandle and one thing I have noticed through the years has been how much you have to water things. I was scared of overwatering my plants at first and I tried to water every other day or space it out a little bit but I learned that with this poor soil the water just drains right through it so you have to constantly water it like crazy. In the spring and early summer I ended up having to water the plants in the morning and the afternoon because by 4-5pm everything was totally dry. Amending the soil with organic material has been the only thing that has really helped. I have been adding compost and biochar and layering cardboard down for several years now and it's amazing how much better the water retention is in the soil now, the plants actually have a chance to absorb the water before it all seeps down through the sand.
I have a similar situation here in the Arkansas river valley ... a highway crew is putting in an overpass two blocks from the house, and they dug down ten feet before they hit the water table and had to stop .. nothing but sand all the way down in that pit. Adding tons of organic material (literally, not figuratively) has done wonders to transform the soil, and its great to not have to water 2-3 times/day, every day!
Worm Castings, Activated Biochar, CompostBroken down Manure, Mulch ... see like they are strongly winning... would be cool to see you do all that in one bed now
Similar soil problem for me. You need to till as deep as you can to loosen the soil, 8-10 inches. Spread some triple 13, lime, and a cover crop mix on top. One with 6-8 different seed types, include peas and clover for nitrogen. Till in the top 2 inches. The cover crop will explode, send roots down, and organic biomass above ground. Lay it over at the end of the season and plant your no till garden in it then. Soil will be looser, have more organic matter, and hold more moisture. Plant a cover crop every year and mix your greens, radishes, etc. in with the clover, rye, oats, and wheat. They will grow much better than on their own.
Do cover crops drop seeds though? Like if I do a cover crop mix in fall and winter, do I need to worry about it competing once the actual spring grow season starts again?
@@h.s.6269 In Alabama where I am, if they drop seeds they will just come up next fall. If you 're worried about seeds, just mow them before they go to seed in the Spring. Most people just mow or lay the plants over before they plant. It will hold more moisture that way and help increase organic matter as it breaks down.
Much of Florida has high phosphorus. Because the soil looks similar here, I assumed the same until getting a test back and finding we were low. There's a definite value in knowing what you have in the ground.
I'm going to state every garden will preform different and Agree something we can all learn. Thanks for the teaching. I think baby steps are sometimes best.
I'm sure it would help. I do not want to mess up the experiment, though. The organic matter I have available is rotted manure, which would feed a bed all on its own.
Cool! I'd love to see this experiment done with beds with different types of organic matter amendments. Could possibly be something like: bed1-finished, anything goes compost bed2-half-finished, anything goes compost bed3-hugelkultur(logs down to finer twigs&leaves) bed4-ocean organics like seaweed, starfish, fish bed5-manures bed6-lasagna method bed7-biochar bed8-little bit of everything:)
I think one of the key things you might be missing is that any bio-mass is able to hold moisture in the sandy soil. It's as important or more important than the nutrients that are available. I planted a 20X30 garden this year, 1/3 was based on Hugelkulture, 1/3 amended with partially composted horse manure, and 1/3 amended with bio-char. I've had to add a fertilizer due to the bedding material in the horse manure being only partially composted, so it is sequestering nitrogen. The bio-char section was just planted yesterday, so I'm curious to see how it does. Great experiment, and thanks for posting.
That'd be interesting to hear how that turns out! I set up 30" deep huggleculture raised beds this year but I didn't have as much wood as I wanted to, so I'm wondering on what the differences between the first two beds (about 40-60% thick branches, stump and logs) and the last two beds (only about 20-40% thick branches) will be long term.
@@h.s.6269 I didn't have a lot of wood either. But I think any organic material hold moisture, and promotes beneficial fungie and bacteria. I cleared the grass, dug a trench about 8" deep. Then put down about 2" of rotting pine boards, about 2" of rotting oak leaves, 2" more of rotting pine boards, another 2" of rotting leaves, then a couple of inches of ornamental corn plants. I added 6" of partially composted horse manure and bedding, Then put the soil back on top and tilled it in. I had to add fertilizer because the sawdust in the bedding material was only partially composted and sequestering nitrogen. It's doing good now, with a drip tape irrigation system. Army worm caterpillars almost took over before I got some BT.
Watch a video from a market gardener. He said you put down deep compost. And grow in the compost. He did not mix it into the sand. He used drip tape to irrigate. And used shade cloth.
@@davidthegood Always a problem with nearly everything. Hopefully the Biochar in a few years will have your farm looking like the Amazon. But wait. Getting enough Biochar for your operation. Maybe more than what you want to fool with. Looks like you are stuck with 10/10/10 fertilizer. It works.
you need to do an BTE experiment Mr Good. Make it a 13 bed setup. Look up no till Back To Eden style of gardening. Your soil is like mine used to be before I switched to the Eden Method. If you value a good thorough experiment standard, try this because it'd be a great side by side comparison that would no doubt highlight the extreme differences between what you are doing, and what actually works. As a side benefit, you would discover how insanely efficient the Eden method is at saving you time. Your soil can be healed fairly quickly with the method because it incorporates all you seek, the advice of Mr Solomon (a very intelligent mentor indeed) and the concept of covering the soil with the biomass your soil lacks. Covering the soil gives the "living" portion of the equation a place to live and hide from the southern sun. Plants rarely grow well in a hermetic state, almost always require balance and suffer if the other biologicals are not present, as in your case. The covering also acts as insulation and weed barrier. It aids in preventing, and at times even eliminating erosion from heavy rains. It holds moisture at a level plants can benefit from, while dispensing it back a little at a time.. I've been to Florida and I've seen those rains you can get! With the soil you have, heavy rains life saving hydration is mostly lost to the porosity of that sand and the evaporation from the ensuing scorching sun you have. Draining away quickly leaves the roots of your plants starving for hydrogen and oxygen. The insane sunshine finishes them off quite handily after they become parched. Please do get a look into this. Otherwise, great work detailing your efforts. You do seem to be having a time with that infertile soil. Anyway best of luck to ya!
cool........looks very sandy from the vids. My two cents, raid the nearby woods and bring in a ton (literally) of twigs, leaves, wood chips, etc... It may take a while; but that sand has got to get more long term nutrients that also hold moisture. I'm telling you what you already know. just reminding you.
urine is nitrates, nitrates are needed to break down organic materials in the soil to make it plant available. but theres no organics in this soil so the urine just 'burns' the roots. yep chemical reaction between some nitrates and the salicilic acid that comprises the exteriors of plants roots. (or i'm getting the particular compound wrong and its a different fatty acid that its reacting with)
Hey check out Pete Kanaris at Green Dreams, he sells fakahachie grass I think it's called. . . you can use mexican sunflower (tithonia diversifolia I think is what he said) as a chop and drop and then put that on top of it and it will be increasing the organic matter in your soils just using stuff that is renewable on site... might be a good thing to add in
hi david! there seems to be too much of a difference in light exposure for the experiment but good luck anyway, hope you enjoy it and thank you for sharing!!
I would just grow sunflowers. Let their roots die in the soil. Effortless soil amendment there. Even aerates clay soils. Worth a try. They have massive root balls.
I’m definitely going to try this, although I have heard that you might not want to use it for compost, but dig it up because of how it pulls heavy metals out of your garden. Mustard too.
Good idea if these conditions persisted. The problem is that right now we are low rainfall. Through much of the year, it is very high, so gardens will drown.
Could pH play a role in germination? I know you did the lime buggy but then there was a massive rain, right? Is the lime still there? Idk if it even works like that; Just spitballing.
Thank you David for your inspiring and uplifting work! I think i've gotta make a lot of biochar for my coastal sandy gardens this year. Is there anything (natural) besides compost and clay that can be added to sandy soil for more water retention? Something that lasts? I could bury some of our excess wood but i need to keep the beds diggable because of invasive weed rhizomes.
@@davidthegood Ahh yes, i actually bought a tiny bag of that stuff together with some trees at a local nursery. they simply called it "gel" and recommended to add a teaspoon into a plant hole before planting a tree. I just read a bit about it at dave's garden and i think i will start adding it to my potting mixes for my little nursery. For using it on a bigger scale it is a bit expensive... also i don't know yet how this stuff is being produced...
the problem with liquid fertiliser solutions is just that. in order to be liquid they are water soluble. there are 3 levels of mineral availability in soils. not available, conditionally available(bacterially soluble) and water soluble. water soluble minerals exist in soil as the result of bacteria/fungi making it available. they cant do this with no plants feeding them the carbs they need to run their biology. adding water soluble nutrients into the soil starves the microbes. best bet is to try a range of plants, find out what grows with no liquid fertilisers and then use them to increase the organic content of the soil. ie use them as green manure. as the soil improves you will be able to grow other things. normally compost teas and worm pee is used to add microbes to the soil or directly to the plants leaves.
I'm sure the dogs are attracted to the fish and swamp water fertilizer. But looks like you really need to just set a sprinkler out there and water more, assuming you have a well that should be no problem
Hi Dave, this is my first post. I'm really enjoying your videos. Is your sand non-wetting/water repellent? In South Australia, we have large areas of sandy soils that just don't wet up after rain. Farmers have solved this problem by digging up the clay sub soil and spreading it on the sand and mixing it in. This totally transforms the soil making it wettable and more fertile as the nutrients are held in the soil rather than being leached out. See the link below - worth a try. Cheers Phil grdc.com.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0027/142587/grdc-fs-clayspreadingdelving-south_lr-pdf.pdf.pdf
Adding bio char soaked with swamp water as a layer in a lasagna bed seems like a winning idea to me .. loving the experimentation!
I think that’d be great as well! It seems like dfsw wasn’t given its best chance because the CEC is so low that after the bed dries out there is almost no fertilizer left. Charged biochar definitely seems like the move in low CEC soils.
1:30 daves swamp water
2:25 worm castings (good)
3:07 charged biochar (best)
3:37 dynogrow
4:25 urine
4:57 10x10x10
5:29 control bed
5:53 Steve Solomon’s mix
6:30 fish and seaweed fertiliser
7:12 lasagna bed (good)
8:24 alfalfa bed
8:50 cover crop
You have to apply the urine directly to the dog for it to be effective.
Also importantly, while avoiding the inherent dangers of zippers it remains advisable to realize that even at night said dogs are extremely difficult to sneak up upon and also that police officers have extremely bright flashlights... Or so I've heard.
I would venture that this approach still varies depending on the dog.
I think dancing dog videos may beat out stupid cats that jump at walls and fail vids. You could break the internet if you could catch them on video at it. TRAIL CAM!
@@tantrictami Mmm... I think that content may violate RUclips community guidelines.
@@rehoboth_farm not to catch the urinating to catch the DANCING. I think Dave needs to write some original music for the dogs to dance to.
Biochar results were pretty impressive. Lasagna bed with Biochar would have been smashing.
Yes indeed. Stacking these together is going to make a world of difference.
Thanks for sharing the update! I do lasagna method with added worm castings and has helped my sandy soil. I just got some biochar and will now add this to my setup after seeing the results on your video.
Excellent. I am going to make more - it has impressed me.
Looks to me like a combination of the best ones would work and peas can grow in anything.
Yes.
Biochar it is! Now I’m going to search your back catalogue on how to make it. Thanks Dave!
It looks like a good long term solution would be to use cover crops to increase soil humus content. Of course I'm not sure how long you intend to stay there so... The biochar was pretty impressive. Have you tried soaking biochar in your swamp water mix?
Not yet
This...is...amazing content!
I am learning so much with this experiment. Thank you very much
Thank you very much.
Came for the garden, stayed for the groovy music...
Thank you.
I have almost the exact same soil her in the FL panhandle and one thing I have noticed through the years has been how much you have to water things. I was scared of overwatering my plants at first and I tried to water every other day or space it out a little bit but I learned that with this poor soil the water just drains right through it so you have to constantly water it like crazy. In the spring and early summer I ended up having to water the plants in the morning and the afternoon because by 4-5pm everything was totally dry. Amending the soil with organic material has been the only thing that has really helped. I have been adding compost and biochar and layering cardboard down for several years now and it's amazing how much better the water retention is in the soil now, the plants actually have a chance to absorb the water before it all seeps down through the sand.
I have a similar situation here in the Arkansas river valley ... a highway crew is putting in an overpass two blocks from the house, and they dug down ten feet before they hit the water table and had to stop .. nothing but sand all the way down in that pit. Adding tons of organic material (literally, not figuratively) has done wonders to transform the soil, and its great to not have to water 2-3 times/day, every day!
Definitely. Water is a huge limiting factor.
The south Americans figured this out long ago with Terra Petra. You need a big layer of biochar to hold the nutrients in. Biochar is the way to go.
Worm Castings, Activated Biochar, CompostBroken down Manure, Mulch ... see like they are strongly winning... would be cool to see you do all that in one bed now
Totally. The EVERYTHING bed!
All of those except the biochar add some amount of organic matter.
Similar soil problem for me. You need to till as deep as you can to loosen the soil, 8-10 inches. Spread some triple 13, lime, and a cover crop mix on top. One with 6-8 different seed types, include peas and clover for nitrogen. Till in the top 2 inches. The cover crop will explode, send roots down, and organic biomass above ground. Lay it over at the end of the season and plant your no till garden in it then. Soil will be looser, have more organic matter, and hold more moisture. Plant a cover crop every year and mix your greens, radishes, etc. in with the clover, rye, oats, and wheat. They will grow much better than on their own.
Do cover crops drop seeds though? Like if I do a cover crop mix in fall and winter, do I need to worry about it competing once the actual spring grow season starts again?
@@h.s.6269 In Alabama where I am, if they drop seeds they will just come up next fall. If you 're worried about seeds, just mow them before they go to seed in the Spring. Most people just mow or lay the plants over before they plant. It will hold more moisture that way and help increase organic matter as it breaks down.
Really enjoying this experiment. I'm sure my soil is somewhat similar to yours, so this helps me out a lot. Mine is super high in phosphorous.
Much of Florida has high phosphorus. Because the soil looks similar here, I assumed the same until getting a test back and finding we were low. There's a definite value in knowing what you have in the ground.
wow, its 28 degrees with a high of 32 today in Massachusetts would love to be in a tee-shirt gardening in bama!
My condolences for your poor geographical location.
@@davidthegood I need to getouttahere!
I'm going to state every garden will preform different and Agree something we can all learn.
Thanks for the teaching.
I think baby steps are sometimes best.
Maybe you could top-dress 1/2 the bed of the low-organic matter beds to see if the top-dressed half improves
I'm sure it would help. I do not want to mess up the experiment, though. The organic matter I have available is rotted manure, which would feed a bed all on its own.
Secondary lesson; beets are picky eaters, peas eat anything.
Got my Compost Your Enemies the other day in the mail !!
Cool! I'd love to see this experiment done with beds with different types of organic matter amendments. Could possibly be something like: bed1-finished, anything goes compost bed2-half-finished, anything goes compost bed3-hugelkultur(logs down to finer twigs&leaves) bed4-ocean organics like seaweed, starfish, fish bed5-manures bed6-lasagna method bed7-biochar bed8-little bit of everything:)
Garden coming on lovely
Well done
It would be interesting to see how homemade fungal dominated compost tea would do compared to the other options.
I think one of the key things you might be missing is that any bio-mass is able to hold moisture in the sandy soil. It's as important or more important than the nutrients that are available. I planted a 20X30 garden this year, 1/3 was based on Hugelkulture, 1/3 amended with partially composted horse manure, and 1/3 amended with bio-char. I've had to add a fertilizer due to the bedding material in the horse manure being only partially composted, so it is sequestering nitrogen. The bio-char section was just planted yesterday, so I'm curious to see how it does. Great experiment, and thanks for posting.
That'd be interesting to hear how that turns out!
I set up 30" deep huggleculture raised beds this year but I didn't have as much wood as I wanted to, so I'm wondering on what the differences between the first two beds (about 40-60% thick branches, stump and logs) and the last two beds (only about 20-40% thick branches) will be long term.
@@h.s.6269 I didn't have a lot of wood either. But I think any organic material hold moisture, and promotes beneficial fungie and bacteria. I cleared the grass, dug a trench about 8" deep. Then put down about 2" of rotting pine boards, about 2" of rotting oak leaves, 2" more of rotting pine boards, another 2" of rotting leaves, then a couple of inches of ornamental corn plants. I added 6" of partially composted horse manure and bedding, Then put the soil back on top and tilled it in. I had to add fertilizer because the sawdust in the bedding material was only partially composted and sequestering nitrogen. It's doing good now, with a drip tape irrigation system. Army worm caterpillars almost took over before I got some BT.
Neat to see! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Exciting experiment.
Enjoyed the experiment. Great idea.
Hoping to get an update on this experiment soon.
You will.
Watch a video from a market gardener. He said you put down deep compost. And grow in the compost. He did not mix it into the sand. He used drip tape to irrigate. And used shade cloth.
The problem with deep compost is the sourcing of it for a large location. It would be a constant fight.
@@davidthegood Always a problem with nearly everything. Hopefully the Biochar in a few years will have your farm looking like the Amazon. But wait. Getting enough Biochar for your operation. Maybe more than what you want to fool with. Looks like you are stuck with 10/10/10 fertilizer. It works.
you need to do an BTE experiment Mr Good. Make it a 13 bed setup. Look up no till Back To Eden style of gardening. Your soil is like mine used to be before I switched to the Eden Method. If you value a good thorough experiment standard, try this because it'd be a great side by side comparison that would no doubt highlight the extreme differences between what you are doing, and what actually works. As a side benefit, you would discover how insanely efficient the Eden method is at saving you time. Your soil can be healed fairly quickly with the method because it incorporates all you seek, the advice of Mr Solomon (a very intelligent mentor indeed) and the concept of covering the soil with the biomass your soil lacks. Covering the soil gives the "living" portion of the equation a place to live and hide from the southern sun. Plants rarely grow well in a hermetic state, almost always require balance and suffer if the other biologicals are not present, as in your case. The covering also acts as insulation and weed barrier. It aids in preventing, and at times even eliminating erosion from heavy rains. It holds moisture at a level plants can benefit from, while dispensing it back a little at a time.. I've been to Florida and I've seen those rains you can get! With the soil you have, heavy rains life saving hydration is mostly lost to the porosity of that sand and the evaporation from the ensuing scorching sun you have. Draining away quickly leaves the roots of your plants starving for hydrogen and oxygen. The insane sunshine finishes them off quite handily after they become parched. Please do get a look into this. Otherwise, great work detailing your efforts. You do seem to be having a time with that infertile soil. Anyway best of luck to ya!
Thanks for the update David
That's not soil. That's a sandbox. Maybe you should grow some coconut trees.
Where would he get a coconut to plant?
ruclips.net/video/zqtS9xyl0f4/видео.html
I wish it were warm enough!
So, Biochar looks like a clear winner.
So far, yes!
cool........looks very sandy from the vids. My two cents, raid the nearby woods and bring in a ton (literally) of twigs, leaves, wood chips, etc... It may take a while; but that sand has got to get more long term nutrients that also hold moisture. I'm telling you what you already know. just reminding you.
urine is nitrates, nitrates are needed to break down organic materials in the soil to make it plant available. but theres no organics in this soil so the urine just 'burns' the roots. yep chemical reaction between some nitrates and the salicilic acid that comprises the exteriors of plants roots. (or i'm getting the particular compound wrong and its a different fatty acid that its reacting with)
Single row looks great for sand!
Wide spacing works well.
Great video! This is proving that what I have been learning from Dr Elaine Ingham is very credible. My eyes are opening.
Healthy plants are a combination of biology and geology, so what we have here is a problem with both!
Thank you!
Hey check out Pete Kanaris at Green Dreams, he sells fakahachie grass I think it's called. . . you can use mexican sunflower (tithonia diversifolia I think is what he said) as a chop and drop and then put that on top of it and it will be increasing the organic matter in your soils just using stuff that is renewable on site... might be a good thing to add in
Tithonia is on the list. Just too cold to grow it now.
Its so good to see the failures for teaching. Thank you. Sand sucks...sucks everything away.lol
hi david! there seems to be too much of a difference in light exposure for the experiment but good luck anyway, hope you enjoy it and thank you for sharing!!
I would just grow sunflowers.
Let their roots die in the soil.
Effortless soil amendment there.
Even aerates clay soils.
Worth a try.
They have massive root balls.
I’m definitely going to try this, although I have heard that you might not want to use it for compost, but dig it up because of how it pulls heavy metals out of your garden. Mustard too.
Have you thought of lining pits with cardboard and building your beds inside to retain water? Just a thought.
Good idea if these conditions persisted. The problem is that right now we are low rainfall. Through much of the year, it is very high, so gardens will drown.
biochar provides a location for soil microbes to hole-up and survive catastrophy. like drought. once things get better they come on back out.
Keep on keeping on...Aloha
RIP David's organic gardening.
IMO the only plants I have that respond well to urine are papayas.... they LOVE nitrogen
Could pH play a role in germination? I know you did the lime buggy but then there was a massive rain, right? Is the lime still there? Idk if it even works like that; Just spitballing.
Always good!!! TY DTG What's up with that vehicle back there???
Belongs to the landlord and is non functional. Hey, this is the South!
Thank you David for your inspiring and uplifting work!
I think i've gotta make a lot of biochar for my coastal sandy gardens this year. Is there anything (natural) besides compost and clay that can be added to sandy soil for more water retention? Something that lasts? I could bury some of our excess wood but i need to keep the beds diggable because of invasive weed rhizomes.
There are these weird polymer water get crystals that hold water in the ground as well but I'm not sure I trust them.
@@davidthegood Ahh yes, i actually bought a tiny bag of that stuff together with some trees at a local nursery. they simply called it "gel" and recommended to add a teaspoon into a plant hole before planting a tree. I just read a bit about it at dave's garden and i think i will start adding it to my potting mixes for my little nursery. For using it on a bigger scale it is a bit expensive... also i don't know yet how this stuff is being produced...
I got a new fender kingman acoustic electric bass I’d love to do a intro for ya man
Send me a recording. If it rocks, I will use it.
the problem with liquid fertiliser solutions is just that. in order to be liquid they are water soluble. there are 3 levels of mineral availability in soils. not available, conditionally available(bacterially soluble) and water soluble. water soluble minerals exist in soil as the result of bacteria/fungi making it available. they cant do this with no plants feeding them the carbs they need to run their biology. adding water soluble nutrients into the soil starves the microbes. best bet is to try a range of plants, find out what grows with no liquid fertilisers and then use them to increase the organic content of the soil. ie use them as green manure. as the soil improves you will be able to grow other things. normally compost teas and worm pee is used to add microbes to the soil or directly to the plants leaves.
Where do you have dogs? By the way I would love more composting videos with your bin and your compost tea.
Just dogs from random neighbors wandering through.
@@davidthegood Oof, I couldn't stand that type of thing. You have great patience.
Anyone know best place to find North Florida Hawthorne berry bushes?
How are you keeping deer out?
Not a problem... yet. Maybe a fence soon.
I dont know how you grow anything in that sand without a foot of compost!!! Lol
immediate like and comment
I think we should add one more double dug with your swamp water.
Yes!
What I've learned is peas like poor soil. You could just grow peas.
Need to add more Biochar.
Please remind us with what/how you charged the biochar? SEA90? Compost Tea? Compost Extract?
I think it was Dyna-Gro.
Dyna-Gro, yes
I'm sure the dogs are attracted to the fish and swamp water fertilizer. But looks like you really need to just set a sprinkler out there and water more, assuming you have a well that should be no problem
No well. No pipes running this far. I am going to buy another hose and put a sprinkler on a stand soon.
@@davidthegood Really all that acreage and no well? Wow that’s Unusual. So you pay for county/ city water
Use woodchips!
Plz write up your research and share it with academia
Academia is worthless. Rather share it here.
Mulch?
....time to make "dog fed bed" for #13
Totally.
That soil is as bad as mine. 3 inches down it looks like a beach!
👍
worm castings as part of a blend serve to add biological glue into the soil.
Sand want hold the fertilizer in the root zone.
You're right. It moves through fast.
Hi Dave, this is my first post. I'm really enjoying your videos.
Is your sand non-wetting/water repellent? In South Australia, we have large areas of sandy soils that just don't wet up after rain. Farmers have solved this problem by digging up the clay sub soil and spreading it on the sand and mixing it in. This totally transforms the soil making it wettable and more fertile as the nutrients are held in the soil rather than being leached out. See the link below - worth a try.
Cheers
Phil
grdc.com.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0027/142587/grdc-fs-clayspreadingdelving-south_lr-pdf.pdf.pdf
Great comment. Yes, it repels water when dry.
It's a sad state.
Remove the dogs or forget about farming
So far it is mostly surface damage. The kids have a pellet gun now and are watching.
compost the Left
Compost the rich 🚩🏴