Just wanted to say thank you for all the videos, SUPER helpful getting started with a new 3018 ProVer CNC machine! I used your guide to build a sound-dampening box and it came out great. I’m constrained on worktable space, so I used five 8ft 2x4s to make a small sturdy table for it. I had just put in a home gym in the garage and had some of the puzzle mat flooring tiles left over. I lined the box with those. They are easy to cut and work great to increase the sound dampening. If you don’t mind the hinges showing, you can mount them on the outside, and the door just lays back over the top. No need for fancy hinges! I also cut out a hole and attached a vacuum “gulper” at the back of the floor. I’m thinking that - since blowing air is much more directional than a vacuum -- my next mod is to cut down a motor oil funnel and attach it to the spindle housing. The top will go to an old vacuum hose to draw in outside air. When the shop vac is attached to the gulper on the floor, the funnel will effectively become a blower and I think it will work much better (and cheaper!) than the custom vacuum attachment.
When you use an extractor you create a vacuum and lose suction, may I suggest an adjustable slide on the front edge to allow a flow of air through the work piece.
Oh yeah, for "cabinet space" underneath add a slide shelf like on a desk for a keyboard but slap the laptop on and when running just slide it underneath 👍
Well....The new video goes live on Sunday which includes the upgrades including vacuum hose port, top extractor fan, lights and one or two other things. I needed to leave the gap underneath empty unfortunately. I made another video called big tools in a small workshop and you can see that gap allows me to slide bigger bits of wood on for my mitre saw
As a CNC newbie, I thoroughly find your tutorial video most useful and informative. THANK YOU! A quick question... in the build of your enclosure, did you use plywood for the base that is thicker than 12 mm?
Great build and excellent video, very concise. No time wasted with mindless chatter like so many instruction videos! I noticed you have your laser mounted on the front of the spindle bracket, what did you use to do that?
hi thanks for the video will be making one this weekend just a quick question where did you get the laser safty window from. thanks again for all your videos they are helping me a lot
Sorry Mick, only just saw this message. Head over to the Sainsmart user group on Facebook. In the files section there will be a file called something like "Novice introduction to making a spoilboard" one of Graham Blands guides.
Me again James lol.... Can I ask how much reduced noise is accomplished, I have the 775 20k spindle and boy its so noisy, I know adding something like audio foam can reduce noise but like water... im sure noise will still leak through and gaps it can find like joints for example.
Can you signpost me to the video that goes through the upgrades that you have done to this enclosure please? I am planning on building mine tomorrow but was interested to see how you and what you upgraded. Thank again James
In this enclosure, I installed a 12v PC fan on the top to extract the smoke. I cover the upgrades I'm this video ruclips.net/video/x8OT2y2ospI/видео.html
I think you may be right, it looks like I've just copied the measurement from the piece next to it. I'll have to go and double check and update the drawing. Well done, I dont think no one else had spotted that mistake
If you were to use this for a laser, would the smoke smell from the laser absorb into the wood? I need to build something like this for my diode laser, to use indoors.
Hi James I like the design and will be adding a draw at the bottom for my laptop sliding sideways to allow the screen to be opened without interference at the front of the enclosure. I did wonder however that the angle of your blade while cutting the top lid and front was set to 45 degrees. should it be 22.5 degrees?
There was a reason why I did it that way at the time but its been a while now so I have forgotten but mine is cut at 45 and the door sets square within it. You can either do it so its 0 degrees (or 90 depending on how you measure) meets a 45 degrees and it slots in or 22.5 meets 22.5 and it bevels itself in that makes sense.
@@JamesDeanDesigns I have gone over the setup and the 45 edge works out to be 17.5mm and the 90 is 12mm so they don't meet properly. However in hind sight all I need to do is rebate a 3mm deep x 12mm wide trench on each side of the door or adjust the design slightly so the door fits inside between the two side panels. Either way it's a great design and easy to adjust, Thanks for your video and response to my question.
The perspex on the video is just clear stuff off amazon. However I have since added an actual laser shield from Robosavy robosavvy.com/store/laser-shielding.html
Nice build. I think I will be having a go at this. My main issue is trying to avoid annoying the neighbours with noise from the CNC. Using a dB phone app my machine is putting out about 85dB when cutting. MDF with 3.1mm end mill at 1mm depth. Any idea what the dB difference is, with your machine, between door open and door closed please when it is cutting?
I dont off the top of my head but if you take a look at my tips and tricks video, you will see the main cause of the noise is vibration from imbalanced spindles. Its a bit of trial and error finding a quiet spindle. I've got mine down to under 70db with the door open so obviously even less when closed. You can help this further if needed by using sound insulation inside the enclosure as well. Ive chosen not to do it as its spongey and I think it will be a pain to vacuum the dust off
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks James. Do you mean unbalanced when cutting or just spinning. The spinning spindle is not very noisy off load. It is only when it is cutting something that it is disturbingly noisy.
@@alandimery3379 bit of everything but cutting 1mm on these machines is actually quite deep. You'll probably find your machin is struggling a little. Even on MDF I dont cut, the maximum depth I go is 0.8mm and thats with more powerful spindle and a sharp bit. My usual setting is 0.4 at about 450mmps for something like oak. Perhaps bring that down to 0.5 as a test and see what the difference is
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks, I will try that. I will have a go at an enclosure in the next day or two. I intend to make a double shell enclosure. I just had the idea of putting expanding foam between them to see if that has an effect on deadening the sound.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hiyah James. I just wanted to say thank you for your advice. You suceeded where the Facebbok group failed. I lowered it to 0.4mm and 450mmpm and it cut the noise by 20dB. It is now comfortable to watch TV with the CNC in the corridor and I am fairly sure the neighbour won't be bothered by it. And that is stand alone and not in a cabinet. Okay it takes a lot longer but I am in no hurry. Cheers
What do you think of using 1/4 inch (6mm) wood? The 1/2 (12mm) seems too bulky for me to get home and work with. (I am an old fart) I would not be able to cut the groves in the side panels, but I could compensate for that with a minor design change.
It made a huge difference. Made it tolerable to work next to it without hearing protection. Also check out my tips and tricks video at other ways to help reduce noise
Thanks James. I'll start mine today. I need to get it off the kitchen table before my wife runs out of patience. Jim
Thanks for the plans, brother--gonna bang one of these together today!
I hope it helped 👍
Just wanted to say thank you for all the videos, SUPER helpful getting started with a new 3018 ProVer CNC machine! I used your guide to build a sound-dampening box and it came out great. I’m constrained on worktable space, so I used five 8ft 2x4s to make a small sturdy table for it.
I had just put in a home gym in the garage and had some of the puzzle mat flooring tiles left over. I lined the box with those. They are easy to cut and work great to increase the sound dampening.
If you don’t mind the hinges showing, you can mount them on the outside, and the door just lays back over the top. No need for fancy hinges!
I also cut out a hole and attached a vacuum “gulper” at the back of the floor. I’m thinking that - since blowing air is much more directional than a vacuum -- my next mod is to cut down a motor oil funnel and attach it to the spindle housing. The top will go to an old vacuum hose to draw in outside air. When the shop vac is attached to the gulper on the floor, the funnel will effectively become a blower and I think it will work much better (and cheaper!) than the custom vacuum attachment.
Thanks for the video and the plans great little enclosure started building this weekend
You're welcome
Nice video. Not exactly what I was thinking but it helps me get my own thoughts in order.
When you use an extractor you create a vacuum and lose suction, may I suggest an adjustable slide on the front edge to allow a flow of air through the work piece.
Nice simple build, good job
Thank you
Very nice build, I would add ports for vacuum and/or air. Definitely going to build soon. Thanks!
Oh yeah, for "cabinet space" underneath add a slide shelf like on a desk for a keyboard but slap the laptop on and when running just slide it underneath 👍
Well....The new video goes live on Sunday which includes the upgrades including vacuum hose port, top extractor fan, lights and one or two other things. I needed to leave the gap underneath empty unfortunately. I made another video called big tools in a small workshop and you can see that gap allows me to slide bigger bits of wood on for my mitre saw
Look forward to seeing more vids James.
They have been very informative and a great help.
Need to build this for my 3018 cnc
built our today Thank you Sir
hey thanks for the vids
Hope they help 👍
Great video. Do you happen to have plans for an enclosure to suit the 4030?
As a CNC newbie, I thoroughly find your tutorial video most useful and informative. THANK YOU!
A quick question... in the build of your enclosure, did you use plywood for the base that is thicker than 12 mm?
Great build and excellent video, very concise. No time wasted with mindless chatter like so many instruction videos! I noticed you have your laser mounted on the front of the spindle bracket, what did you use to do that?
Hi Jeff. The 3018pro spindle holder is designed to take both a spindle and a laser, you just swap them out as required. Its quite easy.
I hate the mindless chatter too!
Nice simple enclosure, but where is the upgrade video to it?..
ruclips.net/video/x8OT2y2ospI/видео.html
loving the router board, do you have a vid of how you made that and the guide rail at all?
This might help :) ruclips.net/video/cU50YbPNpvo/видео.html
Great video, I'm enjoying watching the series after just receiving my 3018. What thickness of perspex did you use please?
hi thanks for the video will be making one this weekend just a quick question where did you get the laser safty window from. thanks again for all your videos they are helping me a lot
Trying to find the plans for your waistboard, any idea where they can be downloaded.
Sorry Mick, only just saw this message. Head over to the Sainsmart user group on Facebook. In the files section there will be a file called something like "Novice introduction to making a spoilboard" one of Graham Blands guides.
Me again James lol.... Can I ask how much reduced noise is accomplished, I have the 775 20k spindle and boy its so noisy, I know adding something like audio foam can reduce noise but like water... im sure noise will still leak through and gaps it can find like joints for example.
I can't remember exactly but it was around 10db I believe. Made quite a big difference in a small workshop
Can you signpost me to the video that goes through the upgrades that you have done to this enclosure please?
I am planning on building mine tomorrow but was interested to see how you and what you upgraded.
Thank again James
It will not be going live until Sunday. However if you PM me on Instagram I can send you some photos
How do you extract your smoke and odor when using laser
In this enclosure, I installed a 12v PC fan on the top to extract the smoke. I cover the upgrades I'm this video ruclips.net/video/x8OT2y2ospI/видео.html
How would these machine do with mahogany?
Why is the back 470x524 in the drawings? Should it be more like (550-123)= 427 x 524 ?
I think you may be right, it looks like I've just copied the measurement from the piece next to it. I'll have to go and double check and update the drawing. Well done, I dont think no one else had spotted that mistake
You are right. Typo on the drawing. Ill get it updated
If you were to use this for a laser, would the smoke smell from the laser absorb into the wood? I need to build something like this for my diode laser, to use indoors.
Probably would over time. If you check out my enclosure upgrade video though yo will see I also fitted a small extractor fan
Do you have a file for your spoilboard?
Hi James I like the design and will be adding a draw at the bottom for my laptop sliding sideways to allow the screen to be opened without interference at the front of the enclosure.
I did wonder however that the angle of your blade while cutting the top lid and front was set to 45 degrees. should it be 22.5 degrees?
There was a reason why I did it that way at the time but its been a while now so I have forgotten but mine is cut at 45 and the door sets square within it. You can either do it so its 0 degrees (or 90 depending on how you measure) meets a 45 degrees and it slots in or 22.5 meets 22.5 and it bevels itself in that makes sense.
@@JamesDeanDesigns I have gone over the setup and the 45 edge works out to be 17.5mm and the 90 is 12mm so they don't meet properly. However in hind sight all I need to do is rebate a 3mm deep x 12mm wide trench on each side of the door or adjust the design slightly so the door fits inside between the two side panels. Either way it's a great design and easy to adjust, Thanks for your video and response to my question.
@@peterlawson7375 thats correct. I put a foam seal around my door to ensure it sealed well and also didn't bang everytime it fell shut.
What is your recommendations on using OSB board I heard it's good for soundproofing?
Anything solid and dense is good for it. Im not sure of OSB has any special sound proof qualities, but it will certainly work
How did you mount the spoils board to the table? It looks awesome.
Its just blue painters tape (masking tape) and CA glue 😁
Love it, Love it, Love it. Where did you get the Perspex laser shield from and what grade is it?
The perspex on the video is just clear stuff off amazon. However I have since added an actual laser shield from Robosavy robosavvy.com/store/laser-shielding.html
Nice build. I think I will be having a go at this. My main issue is trying to avoid annoying the neighbours with noise from the CNC. Using a dB phone app my machine is putting out about 85dB when cutting. MDF with 3.1mm end mill at 1mm depth. Any idea what the dB difference is, with your machine, between door open and door closed please when it is cutting?
I dont off the top of my head but if you take a look at my tips and tricks video, you will see the main cause of the noise is vibration from imbalanced spindles. Its a bit of trial and error finding a quiet spindle. I've got mine down to under 70db with the door open so obviously even less when closed. You can help this further if needed by using sound insulation inside the enclosure as well. Ive chosen not to do it as its spongey and I think it will be a pain to vacuum the dust off
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks James. Do you mean unbalanced when cutting or just spinning. The spinning spindle is not very noisy off load. It is only when it is cutting something that it is disturbingly noisy.
@@alandimery3379 bit of everything but cutting 1mm on these machines is actually quite deep. You'll probably find your machin is struggling a little. Even on MDF I dont cut, the maximum depth I go is 0.8mm and thats with more powerful spindle and a sharp bit. My usual setting is 0.4 at about 450mmps for something like oak. Perhaps bring that down to 0.5 as a test and see what the difference is
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks, I will try that. I will have a go at an enclosure in the next day or two. I intend to make a double shell enclosure. I just had the idea of putting expanding foam between them to see if that has an effect on deadening the sound.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hiyah James. I just wanted to say thank you for your advice. You suceeded where the Facebbok group failed. I lowered it to 0.4mm and 450mmpm and it cut the noise by 20dB. It is now comfortable to watch TV with the CNC in the corridor and I am fairly sure the neighbour won't be bothered by it. And that is stand alone and not in a cabinet. Okay it takes a lot longer but I am in no hurry. Cheers
What do you think of using 1/4 inch (6mm) wood? The 1/2 (12mm) seems too bulky for me to get home and work with. (I am an old fart) I would not be able to cut the groves in the side panels, but I could compensate for that with a minor design change.
Anything is better than nothing for containing the dust and noise. You would just have to modify the plans accordingly to allow for the difference 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns Gee, I waited at least 5 minutes for this reply... (G). Thanks, I am still on the fence which way to go.
How much did it reduce the noise mate?
The enclosures make a big different. I didn't apply any additional sound proofing measure but I'm sure it came down by about 15-20db
How well did it work for you? I’m mainly looking to make mine less noisy.
It made a huge difference. Made it tolerable to work next to it without hearing protection. Also check out my tips and tricks video at other ways to help reduce noise
Hi, how effective was it at deadening the noise?
Pretty good. I didnt do much to dampen the noise but still really helped. Some people line it with sound proof foam as well
@@JamesDeanDesigns 👍
Modifications video?
All recorded and should be going I've this sunday evening 👍
James Dean Designs Thank you!