What kind of screws I’ve got a bunch of this heavy gauge stuff pretty much pre drilling everything. I’m guessing there some thin panhead self tappers. Or harass some of the carps on the job. Thanks brother
WAY back in the day, before my spark making, I made sparks with arc welders. Completely different kind of steel construction - built giant machinery more or less. Always thinking 4 steps ahead so it goes together perfect without any hitches. You make it look like EASY money! But you miss just one of those steps, and the entire thing goes to hell. Really dig how you have a specific pattern you screw it together. Same thing when tack welding parts together aside from having to guestimate how much the part was going to move from the tack pulling, and occasionally hitting a tack again and whooping it with a hammer. I had something like 20 of the smaller vise grip C clamps, those things are so handy. Hated the ones with the swivel pads though.
I'm a big fan of using more red iron and concrete and less steel stud. It drives me insane, you can build much cheaper with much better strength using the proper systems.
Years of learning dawg . Keep building the foundations of tomorrow. Yo . Metal studs was my carrier, I envision building box beams for cars to pass over rivers you down to help me build those bad ass beams bro they can’t rust from the inside or the outside we gotta do a really good job on these they should hold up 20 ton lotta oil on those screws tapping through that bad ass metal
Most of the time we use the same gauge as the wall being built. Exterior is 16-18 gauge and interior is 20-25. Pinbolts are used in combination with 3/8" to 3/4" rod drilled in and bolted down with a washer. The job specifications under master format will have the exact size, depth and placement for each wall system. I hope that helps my man, I answered both your questions under this comment. If you have anymore or need further clarification I am live this afternoon taking questions at 4pm MST. Or you can leave them here.
I was on a job where we built box beams that were 6 inches wide 8 inches tall 14 gauge 14 gauge track on the top and the bottom with 14 gauge studs filling in the interior until they learn that maybe we should just order tube steel for the horizontal connections . We use two cycle engines to cut all of the metal like a Skil saw in the air only Carborundum blade slicing through the metal to create loadbearing buildings that house people today in the Bay Area
Wow, yeah 14 gauge is ridiculous, have to charge a lot to install with that heavy of steel. Usually only panel factories use that gauge never seen it for stick framing before.
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to cut the flanges off of the studs and run the web of the stud over both studs in the opening. 3 screw in each stud PLUS clip the top and the bottom of the box beam
Yeah I’ve cut out the ears and ran the tongue past the king studs and screwed into king studs as well as the clips around each corner. But ultimately it’s up to the drawings/engineer. Different ways to do it.
We do that on light gauge. But on heavy it builds up to much metal layers making the drywall bulge out in the interior. Also we don’t use angle like he is we just use track and favor the inside for drywall letting the rest stick out on the exterior since typical building have an airspace for brick or EFIS.
Yeah man, I have seen that before with light gauge. When you do it with the clips you really need to make sure your flush both sides and because the box beams are always a bit larger you need to split the dif.
Be careful doing that, there are a couple ways to set the box beams in but that isn't one I have ever seen or done. I think you may be alright doing that but I still recommend using angle or track. The reason why you don't want ears is because you want to try and keep the components on the inside of the opening for drywall purposes. The more you add to the outside of the stud the harder it is to get drywall inside the frames. Some frames you already have to 45 sheets to get the board behind the door frame. I don't imagine it will be strong enough either, using the ears, you have all that strength in your beam and it's not going to be supported properly. Cheers my man! Hope that makes sense.
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You should do a tool pouche set up, what a metal framer should roughly carry
Great Idea actually, I will! Thanks man!
To a Taper, this is pure wizardry. Rock on!
Cheers man!
Well done, great video! Thank you for sharing mate 🙏🏻
Again, very welcome!
Great video Chris !! Very enjoyable start to finish !!
Right on dude thanks!!
What kind of screws I’ve got a bunch of this heavy gauge stuff pretty much pre drilling everything. I’m guessing there some thin panhead self tappers. Or harass some of the carps on the job. Thanks brother
Hey my man, yeah there are self drilling framing screws.you can use the grabber metal stud framing screws and can them pretty much everywhere.
WAY back in the day, before my spark making, I made sparks with arc welders. Completely different kind of steel construction - built giant machinery more or less. Always thinking 4 steps ahead so it goes together perfect without any hitches. You make it look like EASY money! But you miss just one of those steps, and the entire thing goes to hell. Really dig how you have a specific pattern you screw it together. Same thing when tack welding parts together aside from having to guestimate how much the part was going to move from the tack pulling, and occasionally hitting a tack again and whooping it with a hammer. I had something like 20 of the smaller vise grip C clamps, those things are so handy. Hated the ones with the swivel pads though.
haha yes man im not a fan of the swivel heads either and have tons of clamps.
Looks good!
Love it man, Great video.
Thanks bro!
I would use a red iron frame for the door opening and weld it properly it would be much stronger and cheaper than cold rolled metal
I'm a big fan of using more red iron and concrete and less steel stud. It drives me insane, you can build much cheaper with much better strength using the proper systems.
Years of learning dawg . Keep building the foundations of tomorrow. Yo . Metal studs was my carrier, I envision building box beams for cars to pass over rivers you down to help me build those bad ass beams bro they can’t rust from the inside or the outside we gotta do a really good job on these they should hold up 20 ton lotta oil on those screws tapping through that bad ass metal
Heck ya! That'd be cool!
Nice video dude
Great Job!!!
Thanks for the video ❤
Your welcome 🙏
Looking very nice
Thanks Sammy!! Hope all is well I can't wait to be back in the saddle!!
Happy Dad Day bro 💪
You too brother!!!
Good Job!!!
Thanks man!
what gauge for beams and headers?
Most of the time we use the same gauge as the wall being built. Exterior is 16-18 gauge and interior is 20-25. Pinbolts are used in combination with 3/8" to 3/4" rod drilled in and bolted down with a washer. The job specifications under master format will have the exact size, depth and placement for each wall system. I hope that helps my man, I answered both your questions under this comment. If you have anymore or need further clarification I am live this afternoon taking questions at 4pm MST. Or you can leave them here.
Thanks for video bud! Tell mom Joe Smith said hi. No worries about coming out of the closet. We all still love you the same. Lol just teasing bud
Haha of course bro!! Mom says hi!
Likeee ♥️💕
Carpenters Local 215 present!
2 THUMBS UP
It's not a very wide opening. Why is a boxbeam required? Is it because it's wider than a single frame, or because they're wide studs?
We pretty much do it for all of the exterior doors. The job details will tell you where to put them, or they should.
I was on a job where we built box beams that were 6 inches wide 8 inches tall 14 gauge 14 gauge track on the top and the bottom with 14 gauge studs filling in the interior until they learn that maybe we should just order tube steel for the horizontal connections . We use two cycle engines to cut all of the metal like a Skil saw in the air only Carborundum blade slicing through the metal to create loadbearing buildings that house people today in the Bay Area
Wow, yeah 14 gauge is ridiculous, have to charge a lot to install with that heavy of steel. Usually only panel factories use that gauge never seen it for stick framing before.
I'm pretty sure you're supposed to cut the flanges off of the studs and run the web of the stud over both studs in the opening. 3 screw in each stud PLUS clip the top and the bottom of the box beam
Yeah I’ve cut out the ears and ran the tongue past the king studs and screwed into king studs as well as the clips around each corner. But ultimately it’s up to the drawings/engineer. Different ways to do it.
We do that on light gauge. But on heavy it builds up to much metal layers making the drywall bulge out in the interior. Also we don’t use angle like he is we just use track and favor the inside for drywall letting the rest stick out on the exterior since typical building have an airspace for brick or EFIS.
Yeah man, I have seen that before with light gauge. When you do it with the clips you really need to make sure your flush both sides and because the box beams are always a bit larger you need to split the dif.
You should of cut the flanges off the studs to have ears to screw to the studs with angle clips. But great watch 👍.
Be careful doing that, there are a couple ways to set the box beams in but that isn't one I have ever seen or done. I think you may be alright doing that but I still recommend using angle or track. The reason why you don't want ears is because you want to try and keep the components on the inside of the opening for drywall purposes. The more you add to the outside of the stud the harder it is to get drywall inside the frames. Some frames you already have to 45 sheets to get the board behind the door frame. I don't imagine it will be strong enough either, using the ears, you have all that strength in your beam and it's not going to be supported properly. Cheers my man! Hope that makes sense.
@@ConstructionKronies we use angle too with the box plus ears out in California. Two tracks two studs . The angle too .
The screws won’t make any difference because there is screws bottom top of studs . I’m a framer/drywaller . Drywall is the art .
@@jessepantoja4751 Dam straight it is!👍
True butterfly ears on each side to connect our King Studs. That's out here in Cali.
Great Clip..
Keep on Rocking.
👍🏻🍻🍺
Is all the steel All galvanize
Yes it is. Happy Father's Day bro!!
Gloves r too bulky for a carpenter
But please I do highly recommend them for steel, I use a few different styles of gloves depending on what I'm doing.