I changed my mind on hardtails, I always avoided riding them and hated on them just because I felt what's the point of feeling each and every bump when you could have suspension that soaks it all up and makes riding easy- but pretty much the second I started riding trails on my buddies hardtail I realized how fun they can actually be. Of course, I wouldn't bring one to a bike park or huge trail system of anything, but for just cruising around and pedaling mellow trails i haven't ridden anything better. Crazy to think opinions can be changed so easily even when you're adamant about your views just from trying something new!
Those 20" wheels were part of the twitchy and nervous handling which is why it was so much fun on your BMX. I came full circle on My Mountain Bikes. Eventually I sold everything and went back to my 2013 Santacruz 26" Nomad with full coil and DH wheels and tires. I finally realized that for me long slack bikes are so stable it numbs the experience as do larger wheels as they stabilize and reduce the sketchiness. I like sketchy handling because it requires attention and technique to keep momentum and it's just a blast in technical terrain. Anyone else feel the same?
I think as your bike becomes more stable, it needs to be ridden harder and faster to experience the same input as a smaller bike. I like a big frame but smaller wheels (27.5). Stable ride but quicker turning. I found 29ers to feel a bit indirect, like I had less choice in where my wheels were going. It was honestly easier to turn my dirt bike than my 29er. Also they're not as steezy on jumps!! I think it comes down to a variety of factors such as rider size, what you find fun, and what trails you ride. VanCan rides technical, steep, fast stuff, so I totally see the benefit of big wheels and frame. A fast bike suits a fast rider. A slower bike suits someone who puts speed behind the other factors that they enjoy more!
I've been riding mountain bikes since the rigid steel 26" wheel days, and I just love the progress. I don't need to change my mind much because everything is better than it used to be, so I just go with the flow. The ONE thing that I go back and forth on is clipless vs. flat pedals. I've compromised now, so I just keep the clipless on my cyclocross bike and flats on my MTB.
FINALLY! someone repping the knolly. looking forward to seeing more stuff of you on the knolly and tips and tricks if they come around about what you think others should rock on the knolly bikes.
1. Weight - When I try to upgrade any part of my bike I want it to be lighter than what I currently have. But sometimes in exchange of strength/durability. Now I don't mind the weight and just putting parts that are reliable. 2. Wide Rims - Upon reading many articles and knowing the benefits I finally tried them. Now I can run lower pressure, better support, and tires just felt that they are doing their job better. (Haven't tried tubeless yet) 3. Bike Fit - I learned how to do it! Because bike is a very personal thing. I want it to be customize as much as possible to my fit and usage. Can't put miles on uncomfortable bike. 4. Cheap Drivetrain - No need for top of the line. In my experience 10s is the best value on my type of riding. For 11s the additional is just an extension, it just make chain line weird + backpedal issue. 11s is just an extended 10s, you can even use 10s chain on it. 😳
I used to be a tire pressure nerd, I used to check my pressure with my little digital guage before every ride. I don't anymore, but I really should start to do it again. It's so helpful to have your tires always at the same constant pressure
Agreed. Running the same pressure every ride gives you consistency which means a more confident ride! Bump up your pressure a few psi from normal and you'll be shocked at how different your bike feels! Most people tune their suspension, but forget to tune their tires!! I ran 18 PSI on the front of my dirt bike once instead of 14, and the loss of grip was massive!!!
@@RiggadonDan My riding actually improved massively when I stopped basing all dials on stats but started tuning the bike to ride feel. I'll change pressure and dampers based on how it feels that day, depending on what I'm doing and what I focus on. Not checking meters and clicks on purpose. My bike's become much less of a tool and more of a 2nd body, if you know what I mean. Us riders will never be stable / consistent. Best to have the bike adapt WITH you rather than forcing yourself to adapt to the same bike every ride. It really makes a lot more sense unless you always want to find the optimum performance in one skill / discipline every single time and you want to force yourself to fit the same mold every time for that reason.
Can't complain, they're pretty fun bikes. I've been beating on my Meta AM 27.5er for years now and it just keeps trucking. Got a riding buddy who got the 29er last year, it's a great bike.
Any frame material will break(well..almost). I've broken carbon, steel, aluminum, scandium...but...a ti hardtail I had never budged while everything on it did. So, just because your carbon frame broke doesn't mean the new alloy won't
@@GoodwinGlassworks that’s very true. I just find alloy I can also just abuse a bit more. When I crash I’m not as worried as I would be with carbon. But very good point
I want to clear something up which seems to confuse many people in the MTB industry. Frame strength is determined by the engineers' standards, tools and work, not the frame material. AL, carbon, TI and steel frames can all be used to meet the durability standards the engineers use. What makes a difference for the frame strength then, is how well the engineers and production process have adapted to optimising the use of the material chosen. Different techniques and amounts of each material will be used, but the frames can all turn out equally strong. So; the question whether a carbon or AL frame / component is stronger is actually nonsensical. It's about the strength standards and how well the material used is being utilised - that's also part of the reason why the company / brand you're buying from actually matters. If you want to talk about materials; for the consumer the differences between AL and carbon are: - looks - weight - long term wear (AL loses strength, carbon doesn't really) - environmental impact (carbon is way worse) - price - flex + damping (altering carbon weave patterns will change its flex/stiffness characteristics so mastery of carbon construction gives you more options than AL) - repair process in case of damage - and of course, as you noted, personal sentiment due to previous experiences / opinions / convictions, etc. Although it can be a strong incentive to have a bias towards 1 material (and a fine reason to base your pick on as an average Joe), sentiment is a trait of your own mind, not the material. Thanks for reading ;).
That a carbon frame does not lose resistance over time is false, they are epoxy resin frames reinforced with carbon fibers and the epoxy is degraded with ultraviolet rays in addition to having expiration. aluminum is much more durable in the wear of the passage of time
Also how the bike breaks is important, metal always cracks so it's more predictable, carbon had multiple modes of failure, and you might not pick up on the fact that your frame has a catastrophic failure. Also metal is more impact resistant, so you're less likely to ruin alloy cranks with pedal strikes than with carbon. Like you said there's a lot of pros and cons with both so it's really up to the rider to figure out which is best for them.
Yes... ish. The challenge with carbon fibre is its strength is directional and so there is a lot more to designing a frame that resist bending moments in all directions, especially at the vertices where a mountain bike has to accommodate some pretty variable moments. Aluminum, by comparison, resists tension (and some compression) pretty much equally (per unit mass) in all directions. Aluminum tubes are typically designed to take up a specific directional load but they wind up being able to accommodate other loads by default just by having wall thickness enough to avoid denting. You can try to spec durability in a carbon frame but that then has to be translated into a bunch of different variables in the bike's design. It isn't just a single property of the carbon sheet. The optimization process for carbon frame design is ongoing and you can't argue the superior strength to weight. A theoretically perfectly designed carbon frame would always be superior but, once you accept some additional weight, aluminum is ultimately more forgiving or perhaps more accommodating of unanticipated loading. Personally, I'm looking forward to graphene frames. I should add, that the extrusion process for aluminum tubes delivers a more uniform product than the process of laying sheets of carbon fibre by hand. Consequently the potential for manufacturing defects, or just variability of the manufactured product, is minimized in aluminum frames.
Seen a video recently of an f1 material engineers saying about any amount of flex will degrade cf strength over time. Now my understanding with metals is, as long as it's not plastic deformation, it won't stress over time.
Went for the Propain Tyee alloy frame, and specced it with top notch suspension and brakes. Feel safer and better on alloy vs carbon, plus it might be better for the environment.
I think one of the main things I changed my mind on is coil shocks. I thought that the added weight would not overcome any potential benefits. Boy was I wrong, depending on the bike of course, but coils just give so much more traction and feel compared to anything I've experienced on air. Still undecided on Alloy frames vs carbon, not that I do not think alloy are not more resilient (I do), but I've actually known more people to have cracked alloy frames (specifically chainstays) than carbon ones. To be fair, I've not had problems with either, so far. Side Question, which fender is that for your Zeb? The OEM Rockshox one is too short and I am looking for an alternative bolt on (no zip ties).
I was so stoked when I got my bike (Norco Sight) with a coil. After a half dozen rides on it while it sucked the life out of me, I put a Rockshox with a MegNeg and, oh man, what a difference. I get much more playful bike with really good support and traction.
great video! I also ride "absurdly soft" tires and shock/fork, at least according to the local "bros" standards. I'm an engineer, and was in automotive field for a long time. One thing I don't see discussed when "pressures" come up are how they relate to one another. I'm 200lbs kitted and run 55psi in my Fox 36. Yes I mostly do slower speed technical riding, and it does give away a little on the high speed stutter bumps and stuff, but overall it's better for me. But I also use it with 21psi in the 2.5" tire (27.5). Run 55psi fork with 35psi tires and it's going to run horrible. Run 90psi fork with 21psi tires is also going to be a steamy-coiler combination. I ran the hard fork and soft tires, and grenaded wheels LOL. But with a soft fork AND soft tires, the wheel just gets up and out of the way of the obstacle. I have more traction with the soft tire and fork, and do decent sized drops without issue. Only thing is I run the fork pretty open on rebound, because the spring (air pressure) is so soft and slow, so speed it up. The lower pressures do require more finesse and skill, but it pays back with a superb ride and way more grip than the high pressure setups. PS: I rarely ride park, for context.
I definitely changed my mind about gravel riding. I really thought I would dislike it, and finally got drug on a ride on a friend's borrowed bike. Man, was I wrong about that. I don't dislike riding gravel like I thought I would. I HATE RIDING GRAVEL. It was just like I remembered it as a kid, riding miles of gravel to get to the shale pit or old dirt borrow pit to hit the jumps on my BMX bike. How people enjoy riding a skinny tire on washboard gravel and loose rock, is beyond me. I would rather pound my nuts flat with a hammer than do that ever again. ZERO payoff. "Yeah, but the social aspect is great." No, it's not. I can sit with a beer and socialize. "But you get to see beautiful views." Oh, you mean the SAME views I would see if I drove my car on those roads?
I remember weight was of big concern to me when purchasing my first mountain bike. A few years in and I can see how unimportant weight actually is (to a point) and can actually be beneficial in some cases. Now I hardly even consider the extra grams when upgrading components.
I used to be super against 29er from having 2 26 dh bikes and 3 27.5 trail bikes in the past but now I just bought my first 29er enduro bike and it’s the absolute best thing!
about the mtb apparel: I've always ride with shorts but recently the weather has been really cold so I bought Fox ranger pants. I thought I would be exhausted in the climbs thinking they would be like mx pants, and I couldn't be more wrong lol. Literally don't knock it until you try it, pants for enduro mtb are totally ok :)
I think I quickly learned to love hard technical climbs. Bikes are super capable with descending these days, so I like having a challenge that is very much tied to skill and fitness. I also picked up a trainer this winter to help me get fitter to tackle more stuff.
It’s a joke among people I ride with that if you crash hard on aluminum you give the bike a quick check, maybe squish the suspension, and ride off. With carbon there’s a whole inspection process followed by miles of consternation and doubt about every noise your bike makes.
I like soft tires as well - but I still run a tube in my rear with a more thin tire. That's why I'm not going too low. But I'm eventually end up where you are - my front is already super trail casing tubeless.
I bought a high end enduro ebike just to be able to climb up the mountains to ride down the trails. The ebike is very powerful with insane torque and about 200km of range, but it is also extremely heavy. The 38mm fork and downhill tires plow through drops and obstacles like nothing, but it is like a tank that cannot manual or hop at low speeds.
How did this guy get sponsors after only riding for 5 years? Not knocking the content, just curious. Good for him for making it happen for himself (update). Watched a few other videos. It makes sense now. Lol
If you get a dent in an aluminum frame it’s possible for it to still be ridden. That’s not the same w a carbon frame. If you ride a lot of rocky/techy stuff, aluminum is the better material imo
I ride both 27.5 and 29er. I understand why people think 29er is the bees knees. Beyond a certain level of riding, it comes down to technique. Going from 26 to 29 is fairly big, There are advantages to 26er wheels. Better maneuverability, easier to manual and jump, better clearance, potentially lighter, but the old bikes were heavy. The real advantage to 29er has less to do with rollover than speed and angular momentum. There is always a rock you can’t rollover easier. Larger wheels does not make up for bad technique. Good technique will make up for most of the differences. I still have my 26er and still love riding it. The weight is an issue though. My new FS MTB is 25.5 lbs while my 26er is 36 lbs,.
I think what I have changed my mind is that it is more about the rider than the bike. I've only started riding about a year and a half ago. I got a entry level Marin as I wasn't sure I would stick with the sport and bikes are expensive. It was still over $2000 USD. When I first started riding I thought the bike was horrible and that I needed a better bike to be a better rider. Well, I ride my bike a lot and I have improved. And wouldn't you know it, my bike is better too. Now I am not saying a $5000 - $8000 bike wouldn't be better, obviously it would. What I am saying is that a good entry level bike and lot's of miles will do a lot to have a great time mountain biking. I'm currently upgrading a few parts and yes I would love to get a better bike but while I am on my Marin, I am have a blast learning to ride mountain bikes.
I changed my mind on 29inch wheels too. At first I was that guy who said that is going to ride 27.5 for life until last summer when I tried a 29er.. wow how good it felt. Now I wait for my bike to be delivered and she's a 29er :D
I have seen two video's where carbon handlebars snapped. While I'm sure rare, just why? Costs more, and not a big weight savings, then when you cut them, the dust is a problem, and the environmental aspects in general. Not that alloy is exactly harmless, but can at least be easily recycled. Lastly, my allow bars, are bright blue to match, my bright blue hubs, bright blue pedals, and my bright blue..... You get the ideal.
Great video. I had a custom Devinci Troy aluminum bike built two years ago. I've thrashed it all over the Mt. Hood region and it hasn't skipped a beat.
I'm 5'9". I tried to like 29's, but (and me coming from a BMX background myself) 27.5's are the ticket for me personally for MTBs. I'm 100% with you on carbon wheels. I waited for them to be around long enough for me to judge them. I took some with my custom steel road bike on some moderate single track and I was sold. Knolly was the lust bike for me back in the day, but I'm off aluminum now. I'm going full steel. Even my next hardtail is going to be steel. It's like almost having a full suspension ride on them with the characteristics of steel.
I'm the same height, maybe an inch more, and have been waiting for the 29er love to kick in as well. Wondering if it ever will, or if I'll just go back to 27.5 for the fun factor
I'm still not into carbon frames way too many people break them! I currently have an aluminium frame and it's taken many rock strikes that would of have killed a carbon frame. But it's a shame that newer versions of my bike don't come in aluminium anymore! Alloy all the way for me
Great video! First time viewer. I have always knocked getting an aftermarket wheelset regardless of the material. Now with every bike I buy, my 3 most important upgrades are carbon handlebars, better brakes (SRAM specifically) and a better wheelset. I am a huge fan of industry 9's hydra hub. That hub makes climbing easy and technical terrain so much more manageable.
I just picked up a 2022 carbon 29 AM bike to replace my 2016 alloy 27.5 AM. 1st ride I love it, we will see how it holds up that alloy took alot of rocks and crashes! I'm a better rider now but some things never change, if you ride lots of rocks, some times you hit rocks.
"when I worked at a shop we wouldn't even really want to put them into a bike stand because that slight clamping might break it . " Could you elaborate on this? I've never seen wheels clamped before. Thanks!
I still can't understand 29 hardtails. For me a hardtail should be versatile and good on dirt jumps and for jibbing about as well as trail riding. Im curious to know what other people think.
I can relate with the climbing, but you nailed it, the benefits of fitness on the downs is worth it and I actually find myself enjoying the challenge of the climbs now 🤙
Switched from alloy Bronson to carbon CC Bronson… not a weight weenie so will stick with alloy cranks and aluminium rims As I constantly smash rocks on techy trails ….. and a big yes to keeping fit by riding up and down! If I just shuttled to the top I would be fat!
Dude! 36lb and 37lb bikes, no wonder you hate climbing bro!! I'm no stranger to heavy bikes as that's what I road for years, but now my go to bike is a Scott Ransom which weighs 30lb wet. I used to hate climbing but it's not too bad these days. I still prefer the descents way more than the climbs but I'm no longer dead at the top! I used to be afraid of carbon parts too. Over the years as I've experimented with more of it and I've come to love carbon and actually prefer it most of the time. Especially Enve wheels! Their M730 wheel work miracles!! Oh and Cane Creek Eewings cranks! Neither are cheap but you'll never have to replace them!!!
I have definitely changed my mind about climbing as well, for the exact same reason haha used to be dead at the end of a 12 mile ride and now im still jibbing and having fun at the end.
I came around on 29er. It took a while too. I honestly don't feel too much of a difference in agility vs a 27.5 and it rolls way faster. I actually like the gyro effect of the bigger wheels air the air too. Way more stable.
Guerrilla Gravity should make carbon cranks with their patented carbon tech. Since it is 300% more impact resistant than standard carbon it should be worth it.
The E13 LG1 Race Gen 4 carbon cranks are pretty f'n durable. They're beefier than the likes of Sram and Shimano and they're specifically made for DH. They're also not too heavy. I run the LG1 Race cranks on my big enduro/bike park bike and the TRS Race cranks on my trail bike. Both of them are beefy and only ever so slightly heavier than comparable Sram and Shimano cranks. I think the LG1 Race cranks would work well for you. I also used to think the same thing about carbon wheels. I convinced myself they would break and aluminum was also better and more compliant and durable. turns out after bending so many aluminum wheels, not only is carbon way more durable, but they're lighter. I also run the Nobl TR37's on my enduro/bike park bike and I run TR32's on my trail bike. Awesome wheels!
@@VanCan Ya for sure. Honestly I feel there's even less chance of breaking a carbon crank than say carbon bars. Because Carbon is ULTRA strong when pulling or pushing along the fibers. They obviously use a bidirectional weave pattern in cranks because you do have the leverage of the pedal putting some angular force onto the cranks, but it's not 100% perpendicular force like it is with handle bars. This with the fact that carbon cranks are shorter and more beefy than bars, I can't ever see them being a problem. The only thing is booties are a must or the ends will get chewed up worse than aluminum.
I'm a jeans & t shirt person lol. It's pretty much all I own. My main pair of shoes though is a set of Adidas 510 Freerider Pros. Always ready to send it.
-OK I’m old, so biggest mentality change for me was going to a 1x. On the East Coast burbs here we have constant rolling up and down terrain. I had been on 3x or 2xs for so long that I became a master at keeping the rear on one or two chainrings and just shifting my front derailleur so that I only had one gearshift. So at first the idea of a rear only and having to shift through several gears seemed slower and a pain. But being able to change multiple gears at once helps. But the big benefit that changed my mind was with the dropper- trying to manage a dropper and a front derailleur on same side and still sometimes have to use the rear derailleur was a huge pain that just gets worse the faster you are going. So I am a total 1x convert now. -Crank Arm length- big convert to shorter cranks-the 175 mms put on every bike there for a while are too big, especially with these low slung modern bikes. Seems the industry has figured that out too. -Wider tires- big convert to 2.6s. I like my bike to be an allrounder with a leaning towards the enduro end of the trail bike spectrum. Have fallen in love with 2.6s for this purpose- wide enough for increased traction and airing down, not so wide to squish when cornering. -Grip grip grip when it comes to tires- much rather have grip everyday and twice on Sunday and sacrifice some rolling. Maxxis Assegai and DHR2 combo is 👍👍👍 - But 29ers- still a no for me. They just seem to take me along for the ride, instead of me being in control. Just don’t find them as fun. - Carbon vs Aluminum. I do like the stiffness I feel in Carbon frames. But I have both and does my aluminum steed significantly decrease my fun factor or riding- nah. - Carbon wheels and bars- my feeling on frames goes for pretty much all components- wheels, bars whatever. For me just not enough difference to justify spending the money on- I did spend it on the frame of my my primo bike because, hey, frame is a frame. But for the components, if I break something and need to replace it maybe I’ll switch to carbon, but from my experience on demos with carbon wheels and bars to me it’s just a lot of money on something that to me is kinda meh to have. I don’t think that any material is superior though. Pretty much depends on the manufacturer and their process for any material. I don’t take my carbon out when riding street though, bc carbon and concrete definitely do not get along.
A couple of things I've changed my mind about are. I have mostly used 3x drivetrains and my 27.5" full suspension had a 2x10 drivetrain. I did try converting it to a 1x10 but I just couldn't get on with it. I even commented on a GMBN video if I remember right that a 1x drivetrain was he mountain equivalent of herpes. After a while I tried a 1x11 drivetrain with an 11x50 cassette. I may have been wrong. When dropper seatposts started. I didn't see any point for having one. Where I live and the riding I did back then was the main reason. Both my mountain bikes have a dropper post. The last is wheel size. I am that old when I started mountain bike have no suspension, 3x7 drivetrain and 26" wheels. When I got my current full suspension bike. I went up to 27.5". I hated 29" wheels with a passion. I only saw them as hybrid with fat tyres and suspension. Or when gravel bikes started. A gravel bike with flat bars, fat tyres and suspension. I now have a 29er hardtail. Which I ride most of the time. The one thing which I've changed, but not changed my mind about is carbon bars. I've recently fitted the OneUp carbon bar. The thing that did make me nervous. was cutting the down to 780mm. Cutting down £30 alloy bar has no fear. Cutting down £130 carbon bar. Made me quite nervous.
I have changed my mind about XC biking. I only do downhill now for the technical aspect, and gravel biking for the fitness. The main reason I changed was because I needed a good bike that could handle rough terrain, and for me this results in a heavy bike, making it frustrating for climbing on XC terrain. Instead I just use a gravel bike on XC terrain and stay off the seat, using my body as suspension instead of relying on the bike technology. I have a Cannondale Slate though which has 30mm suspension on the fork, so it is a bit more forgiving on single track terrain than a traditional gravel bike. Generally I will ride the same terrain as I used to with my XC bike, but because the slate has narrow tires I can squeeze it between rocks or climb right over them if I have to. My bike weighs a little over 20lbs, so for me it is easier to manage than my XC bike which is quite heavy. I can't really afford to buy a $10K cross country bike so the gravel bike works fine, and if I want to get into some Gnarly terrain and hit some jumps, that is when I go to a bike park with my DH bike.
If I tried to ride your setup on my xc trails as fast as I like to go it would quickly turn into a sketchy, scary ride. Hardtails too. Even pro xc riders use full suspension now.
I rode a 29" hardtail (ok it wasnt great to be honest) but i know switched to a 26" cube stereo 140 and its waaay better as you get better. It just feels like you have more control and the 26" feels more aggressive. My opinion: 29" are good for beginners, but they get clunky and at some point, its better to go with 26" to 27,5"
Coming from a BMX background myself, and being on disability for a Brain Injury, as much as I find mountainbiking on my 700 dollar sportchek GT hardtail is fun, it seems to get a proper fully capable bike with tubeless compatible rims and 1x gearing and blah blah blah to not break your stuff on Vancouver Island Trails and get injured, you have to be a dentist to afford a half decent bike and then all the maintenance that goes with it. Not to mention the dirty looks I get from said rich folk on the trails because I still wear a BMX helmet, jeans and a T shirt, on my hardtail thats ready to fold in half if I drop down a curb. Its unfortunate how expensive mountainbiking is especially coming from BMX where a 1200 dollar BMX can easily hold up on a 12 stair drop, but a 700 dollar MTB will bend a rim dropping off a curb. Heck, the dirtjumper I had before could withstand hop 360's on flat ground but I couldnt put gears on it so thats the trade off for a climbing 29er under $1k, flimsy as hell, gets flats often cant go tubeless without replacing wheels etc. Such a gatekeeped by money activity.
I consider 29’s to be the missionary style of wheel sizes. smart, safe, effective and not as much fun. I have a 2019 santa cruz bronson. Charles is straight party all the time. My next bike might be business in the front though
Narrower tires. I rode dirtbikes as a kid and teen so when i got my first mtb it was a duel suspension with 2.6 f/r and just assumed it was the best for me. Now i have 2.3s on my hardtail and 2.4/2.3 on my full.
Not really component related as I am still experimenting with component materials but I did genuinely think that you was either a good rider or a bad rider not realising actually how much time you need to put into biking. Since I have started spending more time riding and concentrating on certain aspects at a time I have seen improvements. Also I just wanted to ask, how you managed making RUclips videos alongside a full time University degree. You genuinely inspired me to start my own channel so I did, but have not uploaded for a few months due to university being full on, but I miss uploading and creating content. I wondered if you could make a video talking about managing uni life alongside RUclips life sharing some tips that made it slightly easier for you? thank you. Hope you see this Nick! Have a good day!
As a big fella I usually exceed the weight limits for most carbon MTB products due to that I also have a fear of a catastrophic carbon failure, not saying that can't happen with Aluminium though, so the only carbon you'll find on my bikes is headset spacers.
I always wanted an i9 hub until I greased my Xt freehub. The silence while riding is priceless. Now the Onyx racing hub is on my buy list. Maybe Dale got me into it...
Great feedback vid, Nic. Forgot about the brains behind the bike knowledge, lol, appreciate the lil science experiment/product placement segment! Honestly, haven't ridden the (new to me) Norco Sight yet, so, not sure what I would change. Will be my first 29er experience, which I am looking forward to, and don't think I would change, unless it's a fat bike.
I prefer the feeling of light tires and inserts. They roll faster and have tons of side wall support. I like a good DH tires, but they roll slow and even with the extra casing don’t seem to have the same side wall support or rim protection.
So the last big elephant in the room.. one that I never expected to change my mind on (I used to be a xc racer, ultramarathoner, audax roadie alpinist...) ... is have you changed your mind on eMtbs yet ? It's mostly just a matter of time.. once you go electric - you never go back, as the saying goes. That's basically all I do now. As Rob Warners says, "Emtbs are the best thing to happen to mtb'ing since.. mtb'ing".
I’ve posted two videos on it this year. But the reality is if I’m riding something good enough to make a video about, I want to be on my go to bike. Which is my Knolly Chilcotin.
I basically have just started riding and I'm still scared of carbon handle bars. Really I guess what keeps me away them the most is the wide range of of prices, knock offs, and etc. Yes, I see people do crazy things with PNW, Trail 1, and etc but there surely has to be a difference between $140 dollar carbon bars and $40 carbon bars... And at the same time there surely 4x the price difference between these various products.
Just looking at getting my first mountain bike, looking at something with 150/160mm travel. What is something anyone would recommend getting? Riding in Kelowna, Kamloops, and eventually, Whistler/Squamish. Cheers!
Your totally right about brands and carbon bikes. I am going to get a Cannondale Jekyll 2 hopefully soon and one thing I don’t like is that it only comes in carbon. The bike is very good but I wish they did an aluminum version with same spec for riders who prefer it over carbon.
Nice bike, I'm still riding a 2014 endorphin, lol. I'm still undecided on what wheel size to get for my next bike, probably 29 but I think I'd like a 27.5 more
I came into MTB from the road, so for me climbing is just part of the game, and in fact on the road bike, hillier routes is what I'd look for. I also live in Ohio, and you're just not finding trails where you have long downhills, they don't exist. Our highest peak is just 1500 feet and almost no prominence to it.
Short travel and carbon frames, used to think it ok to get beat up on trails because I’m faster. Then I got a long travel trail bike 150/160 and can ride longer, faster with more comfort and yeah its a Aluminium frame. Tires make a big difference to with a less rolling resistant tire on my trails is so much less fatigue and still having good predicable grip.
I’ve tried 29s, had 2 29s, one hard tail and one full sus, not my cup of tea, to big and I’m a tall guy to, wheels look to big for the bike and it feels like I’m going to fold the wheels in half, each to there own, 27.5 for me, and it’s a lot more fun on the trails than a 29er that’s for sure
Thanks for sharing your observations, I think a ton of riders could benefit from hearing them. I am always a bit stunned as to how many people have 'hates' or bias toward things they haven't tried but are sure of their stances. Its particularily rampant in the lower mainland. I've always been one to start a trend or purposely not follow them. I'm a bit of a Rogue wave. I started riding 29 in 2008 and was blown away with the momentum and confidence even a steep XC hardtail would deliver. When it came to doing BC Bike Race in 2010 it was no question 29. My partner rode a S Works 26 FSR and I couldn't beleive how much harder he was working than I was, Admittedly the FS geo on 29's back in 2010 was pretty crap, too steep, chainstays too long etc but it wasn't long before a few brands like Chromag started figuring it out. Anyway I went back to 27.5 for a enduro bike from 2014 to 2022 and just switched to a new Trek Slash 29. Its a great bike and I'm loving it but a well sorted 27.5 for the PNW is hardly going to hold a rider back especially if they have good technical skills and its going to be more playful. I liked the formula of 27.5 and 2.6 rubber. Carbon Vs Alloy - I care more about execution and often Carbon isnt worth the extra $. Both can be made to be stiff, durable but its tough to make Alloy really light without comprimise. Wheels - ya I bought some NOLB's back in 2016 and they transformed my Alloy Remedy and took yrs of beating with only a single tension. That was pre boost so the affect on lateral stability and handling was bigger. Now with boost I still prefer Carbon for durability but the difference in weight/precsion etc for enduro isn't as black and white but I did opt for an Alloy Slash with a Carbon wheel upgrade. Seemed like a worthwhile upgrade as Trek credits you for stock wheels so it was about 1K not 2K. For XC/Trail and Gravel riding where weight and energy conservation are more critical - def. Carbon if you can afford it but like anything check the details, theres lots of heavier carbon or wheels like the new Zipps with really thin 2mm lips I would not trust to last as a heavier rider. NOBL and Bontrager make great wheels for the $ with excellent warranties.
*Coming Down A Rough Trail:* Man, that run was slow, suspension must not be hard enough. Lol. I Kind of tend to be that same way, though. I've gone to the bike park on my enduro bike, and I thought I should run harder suspension for the big jumps, but soon realized that wasn't the answer.
I've tried multiple 29ers. 3x hardtails and 2x Full suspension. Just not my thing at all. Every bike I've owned that has 'just felt right' is a 26er or 27.5. And I'm not a little guy either at 5'11" and 180. 29er just always feels awkward and floppy. I think I'm the opposite on the AL vs Carbon thing. I started out thinking metal is stronger/better but after spending time on PNW blacks/double blacks and park on carbon bikes with zero issues I'm good there. FWIW I've owned 3 Evil carbon bike and not managed to break one yet. :D
I'm 6'1 and 200 lbs, riding a Rocky Mountain Altitude C50 29" and I'll probably never go back to 27.5 again. I think the difference of an inch or 2 in a rider's height is enough to either love or hate bigger wheel sizes. But again, personally the 29" feels perfectly proportionate for my long arms and legs. I feel like I'm in the bike more so than on it. Coming from a Trek Remedy 27.5 the Altitude feels so much better to ride. Just my subjective view on it though needless to say. Hopefully 27.5 will stay around for the foreseeable future and consumers will have the option to pick which size suits them best 👌
@@michaelmcdermott9445 I definitely think it's preference. I actually prefer a big bike, but with smaller wheels. I'm on an Evil Insurgent which is fairly long and of course a bunch of travel. I'm with you, I hope different wheel sizes stay around so that we have the option!
Nothing wrong with a good carbon bike, I'll probably ride one again one day. My point was that I thought alu wasn't any good, which definitely isn't true!
@vancan i just picked up a knolly fugitive 138 in raw aluminum. Curious do i have to worry about corrosion? Any special care i have to take? Polish, cleaning, etc. Appreciate all the info in your videos!
Riding alloy frame and components since 2003. Im not a carbon mountain biker period . I need metal between my legs bombing down the mountain so I totally agree brother. 👍
Use code 'VANCAN' for $5 off Magic Spoon! magicspoon.thld.co/vancan_0322
You're incredibly skilled for someone who has just been mountain biking for 5 years! Not surprised to learn you have a BMX background.
Back in a day BMX was MTB.
I changed my mind on hardtails, I always avoided riding them and hated on them just because I felt what's the point of feeling each and every bump when you could have suspension that soaks it all up and makes riding easy- but pretty much the second I started riding trails on my buddies hardtail I realized how fun they can actually be. Of course, I wouldn't bring one to a bike park or huge trail system of anything, but for just cruising around and pedaling mellow trails i haven't ridden anything better. Crazy to think opinions can be changed so easily even when you're adamant about your views just from trying something new!
Those 20" wheels were part of the twitchy and nervous handling which is why it was so much fun on your BMX. I came full circle on My Mountain Bikes. Eventually I sold everything and went back to my 2013 Santacruz 26" Nomad with full coil and DH wheels and tires. I finally realized that for me long slack bikes are so stable it numbs the experience as do larger wheels as they stabilize and reduce the sketchiness. I like sketchy handling because it requires attention and technique to keep momentum and it's just a blast in technical terrain. Anyone else feel the same?
I think as your bike becomes more stable, it needs to be ridden harder and faster to experience the same input as a smaller bike. I like a big frame but smaller wheels (27.5). Stable ride but quicker turning. I found 29ers to feel a bit indirect, like I had less choice in where my wheels were going. It was honestly easier to turn my dirt bike than my 29er. Also they're not as steezy on jumps!!
I think it comes down to a variety of factors such as rider size, what you find fun, and what trails you ride. VanCan rides technical, steep, fast stuff, so I totally see the benefit of big wheels and frame. A fast bike suits a fast rider. A slower bike suits someone who puts speed behind the other factors that they enjoy more!
100% bro
I've been riding mountain bikes since the rigid steel 26" wheel days, and I just love the progress. I don't need to change my mind much because everything is better than it used to be, so I just go with the flow. The ONE thing that I go back and forth on is clipless vs. flat pedals. I've compromised now, so I just keep the clipless on my cyclocross bike and flats on my MTB.
FINALLY! someone repping the knolly. looking forward to seeing more stuff of you on the knolly and tips and tricks if they come around about what you think others should rock on the knolly bikes.
knolly is simply the best. I got a 2013 endorphin for 1000 bucks with really good components and it takes on the park like a champ.
pretty expensive new though, not that it's not worth it
I ride a Knolly warden carbon, it sends.
I Work 2 Blocks From Them 😎
1. Weight - When I try to upgrade any part of my bike I want it to be lighter than what I currently have. But sometimes in exchange of strength/durability. Now I don't mind the weight and just putting parts that are reliable.
2. Wide Rims - Upon reading many articles and knowing the benefits I finally tried them. Now I can run lower pressure, better support, and tires just felt that they are doing their job better. (Haven't tried tubeless yet)
3. Bike Fit - I learned how to do it! Because bike is a very personal thing. I want it to be customize as much as possible to my fit and usage. Can't put miles on uncomfortable bike.
4. Cheap Drivetrain - No need for top of the line. In my experience 10s is the best value on my type of riding. For 11s the additional is just an extension, it just make chain line weird + backpedal issue. 11s is just an extended 10s, you can even use 10s chain on it. 😳
I used to be a tire pressure nerd, I used to check my pressure with my little digital guage before every ride. I don't anymore, but I really should start to do it again. It's so helpful to have your tires always at the same constant pressure
Agreed. Running the same pressure every ride gives you consistency which means a more confident ride! Bump up your pressure a few psi from normal and you'll be shocked at how different your bike feels! Most people tune their suspension, but forget to tune their tires!! I ran 18 PSI on the front of my dirt bike once instead of 14, and the loss of grip was massive!!!
@@RiggadonDan My riding actually improved massively when I stopped basing all dials on stats but started tuning the bike to ride feel. I'll change pressure and dampers based on how it feels that day, depending on what I'm doing and what I focus on. Not checking meters and clicks on purpose. My bike's become much less of a tool and more of a 2nd body, if you know what I mean. Us riders will never be stable / consistent. Best to have the bike adapt WITH you rather than forcing yourself to adapt to the same bike every ride.
It really makes a lot more sense unless you always want to find the optimum performance in one skill / discipline every single time and you want to force yourself to fit the same mold every time for that reason.
Titanium is better again for bars than Carbon ( Thomson makes good titanium bars!
Good points… Aluminum frames all the way. I’m on a Commencal META AM 29 and absolutely love it!!
Can't complain, they're pretty fun bikes. I've been beating on my Meta AM 27.5er for years now and it just keeps trucking. Got a riding buddy who got the 29er last year, it's a great bike.
I definitely changed my mind about frames. I had a carbon one and it broke now on alloy and I enjoy it and the weight doesn’t bother at all.
Any frame material will break(well..almost). I've broken carbon, steel, aluminum, scandium...but...a ti hardtail I had never budged while everything on it did. So, just because your carbon frame broke doesn't mean the new alloy won't
@@GoodwinGlassworks that’s very true. I just find alloy I can also just abuse a bit more. When I crash I’m not as worried as I would be with carbon. But very good point
I want to clear something up which seems to confuse many people in the MTB industry.
Frame strength is determined by the engineers' standards, tools and work, not the frame material. AL, carbon, TI and steel frames can all be used to meet the durability standards the engineers use. What makes a difference for the frame strength then, is how well the engineers and production process have adapted to optimising the use of the material chosen. Different techniques and amounts of each material will be used, but the frames can all turn out equally strong.
So; the question whether a carbon or AL frame / component is stronger is actually nonsensical. It's about the strength standards and how well the material used is being utilised - that's also part of the reason why the company / brand you're buying from actually matters.
If you want to talk about materials; for the consumer the differences between AL and carbon are:
- looks
- weight
- long term wear (AL loses strength, carbon doesn't really)
- environmental impact (carbon is way worse)
- price
- flex + damping (altering carbon weave patterns will change its flex/stiffness characteristics so mastery of carbon construction gives you more options than AL)
- repair process in case of damage
- and of course, as you noted, personal sentiment due to previous experiences / opinions / convictions, etc. Although it can be a strong incentive to have a bias towards 1 material (and a fine reason to base your pick on as an average Joe), sentiment is a trait of your own mind, not the material.
Thanks for reading ;).
That a carbon frame does not lose resistance over time is false, they are epoxy resin frames reinforced with carbon fibers and the epoxy is degraded with ultraviolet rays in addition to having expiration. aluminum is much more durable in the wear of the passage of time
Also how the bike breaks is important, metal always cracks so it's more predictable, carbon had multiple modes of failure, and you might not pick up on the fact that your frame has a catastrophic failure. Also metal is more impact resistant, so you're less likely to ruin alloy cranks with pedal strikes than with carbon. Like you said there's a lot of pros and cons with both so it's really up to the rider to figure out which is best for them.
So should there should be a standard to define material strengths?
Yes... ish. The challenge with carbon fibre is its strength is directional and so there is a lot more to designing a frame that resist bending moments in all directions, especially at the vertices where a mountain bike has to accommodate some pretty variable moments. Aluminum, by comparison, resists tension (and some compression) pretty much equally (per unit mass) in all directions. Aluminum tubes are typically designed to take up a specific directional load but they wind up being able to accommodate other loads by default just by having wall thickness enough to avoid denting. You can try to spec durability in a carbon frame but that then has to be translated into a bunch of different variables in the bike's design. It isn't just a single property of the carbon sheet. The optimization process for carbon frame design is ongoing and you can't argue the superior strength to weight. A theoretically perfectly designed carbon frame would always be superior but, once you accept some additional weight, aluminum is ultimately more forgiving or perhaps more accommodating of unanticipated loading. Personally, I'm looking forward to graphene frames.
I should add, that the extrusion process for aluminum tubes delivers a more uniform product than the process of laying sheets of carbon fibre by hand. Consequently the potential for manufacturing defects, or just variability of the manufactured product, is minimized in aluminum frames.
Seen a video recently of an f1 material engineers saying about any amount of flex will degrade cf strength over time. Now my understanding with metals is, as long as it's not plastic deformation, it won't stress over time.
Went for the Propain Tyee alloy frame, and specced it with top notch suspension and brakes. Feel safer and better on alloy vs carbon, plus it might be better for the environment.
I think one of the main things I changed my mind on is coil shocks. I thought that the added weight would not overcome any potential benefits. Boy was I wrong, depending on the bike of course, but coils just give so much more traction and feel compared to anything I've experienced on air. Still undecided on Alloy frames vs carbon, not that I do not think alloy are not more resilient (I do), but I've actually known more people to have cracked alloy frames (specifically chainstays) than carbon ones. To be fair, I've not had problems with either, so far.
Side Question, which fender is that for your Zeb? The OEM Rockshox one is too short and I am looking for an alternative bolt on (no zip ties).
Looks like an RRP ProGuard, but I'm not sure they officially fit a Zeb so I may be wrong. I'd check out Mudhugger's bolt-on option too.
Ya it’s an rrp but they don’t have one for the zeb for sale yet
I love the poppyness of an air shock but the way my new coil bike rides is just damn good I can't get over it.
I was so stoked when I got my bike (Norco Sight) with a coil. After a half dozen rides on it while it sucked the life out of me, I put a Rockshox with a MegNeg and, oh man, what a difference. I get much more playful bike with really good support and traction.
@@nogoodnames222 weird. one of the first things i noticed too, as a big fan of the RRP fenders.
great video! I also ride "absurdly soft" tires and shock/fork, at least according to the local "bros" standards. I'm an engineer, and was in automotive field for a long time. One thing I don't see discussed when "pressures" come up are how they relate to one another. I'm 200lbs kitted and run 55psi in my Fox 36. Yes I mostly do slower speed technical riding, and it does give away a little on the high speed stutter bumps and stuff, but overall it's better for me. But I also use it with 21psi in the 2.5" tire (27.5). Run 55psi fork with 35psi tires and it's going to run horrible. Run 90psi fork with 21psi tires is also going to be a steamy-coiler combination. I ran the hard fork and soft tires, and grenaded wheels LOL. But with a soft fork AND soft tires, the wheel just gets up and out of the way of the obstacle.
I have more traction with the soft tire and fork, and do decent sized drops without issue. Only thing is I run the fork pretty open on rebound, because the spring (air pressure) is so soft and slow, so speed it up. The lower pressures do require more finesse and skill, but it pays back with a superb ride and way more grip than the high pressure setups. PS: I rarely ride park, for context.
You want your Stroke between 20 and 80 % takes abit of time double orings Definitely make tuning easier proper .
I definitely changed my mind about gravel riding. I really thought I would dislike it, and finally got drug on a ride on a friend's borrowed bike. Man, was I wrong about that. I don't dislike riding gravel like I thought I would. I HATE RIDING GRAVEL. It was just like I remembered it as a kid, riding miles of gravel to get to the shale pit or old dirt borrow pit to hit the jumps on my BMX bike. How people enjoy riding a skinny tire on washboard gravel and loose rock, is beyond me. I would rather pound my nuts flat with a hammer than do that ever again. ZERO payoff. "Yeah, but the social aspect is great." No, it's not. I can sit with a beer and socialize. "But you get to see beautiful views." Oh, you mean the SAME views I would see if I drove my car on those roads?
Gravel is extreme for them skinny tire folk. If you come from MTB you’ll be scratching your head at gravel.
This comment was made by the anti-gravel gang
Exactly. Riding on real gravel sucks. They should be called backroads bikes.
I changed my mind on gravel too. Now I really enjoy riding gravel, even uphill gravel...
On my unrestricted eMtb 🤘😝
Gravel and/ or road riding are almost essential training tools if you really want to be a fast all around rider.
I remember weight was of big concern to me when purchasing my first mountain bike. A few years in and I can see how unimportant weight actually is (to a point) and can actually be beneficial in some cases. Now I hardly even consider the extra grams when upgrading components.
I used to be super against 29er from having 2 26 dh bikes and 3 27.5 trail bikes in the past but now I just bought my first 29er enduro bike and it’s the absolute best thing!
That sponsor spot was actually pretty funny to watch. As clever as it gets.
about the mtb apparel: I've always ride with shorts but recently the weather has been really cold so I bought Fox ranger pants. I thought I would be exhausted in the climbs thinking they would be like mx pants, and I couldn't be more wrong lol. Literally don't knock it until you try it, pants for enduro mtb are totally ok :)
I think I quickly learned to love hard technical climbs. Bikes are super capable with descending these days, so I like having a challenge that is very much tied to skill and fitness. I also picked up a trainer this winter to help me get fitter to tackle more stuff.
I've been shredding for 20 years. Started on a 26er hard tail, then 170mm travel freeride 26er, 27.5 Bronson and now a Ripmo AF 29er. Love my Ripmo !
It’s a joke among people I ride with that if you crash hard on aluminum you give the bike a quick check, maybe squish the suspension, and ride off. With carbon there’s a whole inspection process followed by miles of consternation and doubt about every noise your bike makes.
I like soft tires as well - but I still run a tube in my rear with a more thin tire. That's why I'm not going too low. But I'm eventually end up where you are - my front is already super trail casing tubeless.
I bought a high end enduro ebike just to be able to climb up the mountains to ride down the trails. The ebike is very powerful with insane torque and about 200km of range, but it is also extremely heavy. The 38mm fork and downhill tires plow through drops and obstacles like nothing, but it is like a tank that cannot manual or hop at low speeds.
How did this guy get sponsors after only riding for 5 years? Not knocking the content, just curious. Good for him for making it happen for himself (update). Watched a few other videos. It makes sense now. Lol
If you get a dent in an aluminum frame it’s possible for it to still be ridden. That’s not the same w a carbon frame. If you ride a lot of rocky/techy stuff, aluminum is the better material imo
Back in the day 160-180 PSI in my tubular race wheels... now 85 in road tubeless
It sad that some companies won’t even think about putting decent suspension or drivetrains (GX/XT or higher) on aluminum.
honestly i dunno why people want the top tier stuff anyways. when you break it, repair costs are much higher, just to save a few grams?
I ride both 27.5 and 29er. I understand why people think 29er is the bees knees. Beyond a certain level of riding, it comes down to technique. Going from 26 to 29 is fairly big, There are advantages to 26er wheels. Better maneuverability, easier to manual and jump, better clearance, potentially lighter, but the old bikes were heavy. The real advantage to 29er has less to do with rollover than speed and angular momentum. There is always a rock you can’t rollover easier. Larger wheels does not make up for bad technique. Good technique will make up for most of the differences. I still have my 26er and still love riding it. The weight is an issue though. My new FS MTB is 25.5 lbs while my 26er is 36 lbs,.
I think what I have changed my mind is that it is more about the rider than the bike. I've only started riding about a year and a half ago. I got a entry level Marin as I wasn't sure I would stick with the sport and bikes are expensive. It was still over $2000 USD. When I first started riding I thought the bike was horrible and that I needed a better bike to be a better rider. Well, I ride my bike a lot and I have improved. And wouldn't you know it, my bike is better too. Now I am not saying a $5000 - $8000 bike wouldn't be better, obviously it would. What I am saying is that a good entry level bike and lot's of miles will do a lot to have a great time mountain biking. I'm currently upgrading a few parts and yes I would love to get a better bike but while I am on my Marin, I am have a blast learning to ride mountain bikes.
I changed my mind on 29inch wheels too. At first I was that guy who said that is going to ride 27.5 for life until last summer when I tried a 29er.. wow how good it felt. Now I wait for my bike to be delivered and she's a 29er :D
I have seen two video's where carbon handlebars snapped. While I'm sure rare, just why? Costs more, and not a big weight savings, then when you cut them, the dust is a problem, and the environmental aspects in general. Not that alloy is exactly harmless, but can at least be easily recycled. Lastly, my allow bars, are bright blue to match, my bright blue hubs, bright blue pedals, and my bright blue..... You get the ideal.
Great video.
I had a custom Devinci Troy aluminum bike built two years ago. I've thrashed it all over the Mt. Hood region and it hasn't skipped a beat.
I'm 5'9". I tried to like 29's, but (and me coming from a BMX background myself) 27.5's are the ticket for me personally for MTBs.
I'm 100% with you on carbon wheels. I waited for them to be around long enough for me to judge them. I took some with my custom steel road bike on some moderate single track and I was sold.
Knolly was the lust bike for me back in the day, but I'm off aluminum now. I'm going full steel. Even my next hardtail is going to be steel. It's like almost having a full suspension ride on them with the characteristics of steel.
I'm the same height, maybe an inch more, and have been waiting for the 29er love to kick in as well. Wondering if it ever will, or if I'll just go back to 27.5 for the fun factor
I'm still not into carbon frames way too many people break them! I currently have an aluminium frame and it's taken many rock strikes that would of have killed a carbon frame. But it's a shame that newer versions of my bike don't come in aluminium anymore! Alloy all the way for me
Great video! First time viewer. I have always knocked getting an aftermarket wheelset regardless of the material. Now with every bike I buy, my 3 most important upgrades are carbon handlebars, better brakes (SRAM specifically) and a better wheelset. I am a huge fan of industry 9's hydra hub. That hub makes climbing easy and technical terrain so much more manageable.
Have you tried TRP DHR Evos?
I just picked up a 2022 carbon 29 AM bike to replace my 2016 alloy 27.5 AM. 1st ride I love it, we will see how it holds up that alloy took alot of rocks and crashes! I'm a better rider now but some things never change, if you ride lots of rocks, some times you hit rocks.
Even at 5’6” I’m a fan of 29. Stability and predictability are a great plus.
"when I worked at a shop we wouldn't even really want to put them into a bike stand because that slight clamping might break it . " Could you elaborate on this? I've never seen wheels clamped before. Thanks!
Carbon bikes. You probably still shouldn’t clamp the frame, but back In the day they really emphasized that.
I still can't understand 29 hardtails. For me a hardtail should be versatile and good on dirt jumps and for jibbing about as well as trail riding.
Im curious to know what other people think.
29 HT's are grand.
I can relate with the climbing, but you nailed it, the benefits of fitness on the downs is worth it and I actually find myself enjoying the challenge of the climbs now 🤙
Flats. I have gone from flats to clips to flats and back again so many times now. I don't really know where I want to end up, but I am on clips again.
Switched from alloy Bronson to carbon CC Bronson… not a weight weenie so will stick with alloy cranks and aluminium rims As I constantly smash rocks on techy trails ….. and a big yes to keeping fit by riding up and down! If I just shuttled to the top I would be fat!
Dude! 36lb and 37lb bikes, no wonder you hate climbing bro!! I'm no stranger to heavy bikes as that's what I road for years, but now my go to bike is a Scott Ransom which weighs 30lb wet. I used to hate climbing but it's not too bad these days. I still prefer the descents way more than the climbs but I'm no longer dead at the top! I used to be afraid of carbon parts too. Over the years as I've experimented with more of it and I've come to love carbon and actually prefer it most of the time. Especially Enve wheels! Their M730 wheel work miracles!! Oh and Cane Creek Eewings cranks! Neither are cheap but you'll never have to replace them!!!
I have definitely changed my mind about climbing as well, for the exact same reason haha used to be dead at the end of a 12 mile ride and now im still jibbing and having fun at the end.
Dude the magic spoon promo was amazing I would watch everyone’s ads if they were this good
I came around on 29er. It took a while too. I honestly don't feel too much of a difference in agility vs a 27.5 and it rolls way faster. I actually like the gyro effect of the bigger wheels air the air too. Way more stable.
I had my first carbon frame in 1996, wheels 2014, handlebars 2016.
I went all back to aluminium, mostly because it's cheaper 😂
Guerrilla Gravity should make carbon cranks with their patented carbon tech. Since it is 300% more impact resistant than standard carbon it should be worth it.
The E13 LG1 Race Gen 4 carbon cranks are pretty f'n durable. They're beefier than the likes of Sram and Shimano and they're specifically made for DH. They're also not too heavy. I run the LG1 Race cranks on my big enduro/bike park bike and the TRS Race cranks on my trail bike. Both of them are beefy and only ever so slightly heavier than comparable Sram and Shimano cranks. I think the LG1 Race cranks would work well for you.
I also used to think the same thing about carbon wheels. I convinced myself they would break and aluminum was also better and more compliant and durable. turns out after bending so many aluminum wheels, not only is carbon way more durable, but they're lighter. I also run the Nobl TR37's on my enduro/bike park bike and I run TR32's on my trail bike. Awesome wheels!
If I had carbon cranks I’d probably get those
@@VanCan Ya for sure. Honestly I feel there's even less chance of breaking a carbon crank than say carbon bars. Because Carbon is ULTRA strong when pulling or pushing along the fibers. They obviously use a bidirectional weave pattern in cranks because you do have the leverage of the pedal putting some angular force onto the cranks, but it's not 100% perpendicular force like it is with handle bars. This with the fact that carbon cranks are shorter and more beefy than bars, I can't ever see them being a problem. The only thing is booties are a must or the ends will get chewed up worse than aluminum.
I'm a jeans & t shirt person lol. It's pretty much all I own. My main pair of shoes though is a set of Adidas 510 Freerider Pros. Always ready to send it.
-OK I’m old, so biggest mentality change for me was going to a 1x. On the East Coast burbs here we have constant rolling up and down terrain. I had been on 3x or 2xs for so long that I became a master at keeping the rear on one or two chainrings and just shifting my front derailleur so that I only had one gearshift. So at first the idea of a rear only and having to shift through several gears seemed slower and a pain. But being able to change multiple gears at once helps. But the big benefit that changed my mind was with the dropper- trying to manage a dropper and a front derailleur on same side and still sometimes have to use the rear derailleur was a huge pain that just gets worse the faster you are going. So I am a total 1x convert now.
-Crank Arm length- big convert to shorter cranks-the 175 mms put on every bike there for a while are too big, especially with these low slung modern bikes. Seems the industry has figured that out too.
-Wider tires- big convert to 2.6s. I like my bike to be an allrounder with a leaning towards the enduro end of the trail bike spectrum. Have fallen in love with 2.6s for this purpose- wide enough for increased traction and airing down, not so wide to squish when cornering.
-Grip grip grip when it comes to tires- much rather have grip everyday and twice on Sunday and sacrifice some rolling. Maxxis Assegai and DHR2 combo is 👍👍👍
- But 29ers- still a no for me. They just seem to take me along for the ride, instead of me being in control. Just don’t find them as fun.
- Carbon vs Aluminum. I do like the stiffness I feel in Carbon frames. But I have both and does my aluminum steed significantly decrease my fun factor or riding- nah.
- Carbon wheels and bars- my feeling on frames goes for pretty much all components- wheels, bars whatever. For me just not enough difference to justify spending the money on- I did spend it on the frame of my my primo bike because, hey, frame is a frame. But for the components, if I break something and need to replace it maybe I’ll switch to carbon, but from my experience on demos with carbon wheels and bars to me it’s just a lot of money on something that to me is kinda meh to have.
I don’t think that any material is superior though. Pretty much depends on the manufacturer and their process for any material. I don’t take my carbon out when riding street though, bc carbon and concrete definitely do not get along.
A couple of things I've changed my mind about are. I have mostly used 3x drivetrains and my 27.5" full suspension had a 2x10 drivetrain. I did try converting it to a 1x10 but I just couldn't get on with it. I even commented on a GMBN video if I remember right that a 1x drivetrain was he mountain equivalent of herpes. After a while I tried a 1x11 drivetrain with an 11x50 cassette. I may have been wrong. When dropper seatposts started. I didn't see any point for having one. Where I live and the riding I did back then was the main reason. Both my mountain bikes have a dropper post. The last is wheel size. I am that old when I started mountain bike have no suspension, 3x7 drivetrain and 26" wheels. When I got my current full suspension bike. I went up to 27.5". I hated 29" wheels with a passion. I only saw them as hybrid with fat tyres and suspension. Or when gravel bikes started. A gravel bike with flat bars, fat tyres and suspension. I now have a 29er hardtail. Which I ride most of the time. The one thing which I've changed, but not changed my mind about is carbon bars. I've recently fitted the OneUp carbon bar. The thing that did make me nervous. was cutting the down to 780mm. Cutting down £30 alloy bar has no fear. Cutting down £130 carbon bar. Made me quite nervous.
BMX background you say? 📈
It’s required
I can't stop seeing how perfectly you lined up all the logos with the valve stem. 😎
They're slightlyyyy off and it kills me a little every day
@@VanCan Time to put that laser to use and get it PERFECT. Also when you typed in "It kills me a little every day." I heard it in Josh's voice.
I have changed my mind about XC biking. I only do downhill now for the technical aspect, and gravel biking for the fitness. The main reason I changed was because I needed a good bike that could handle rough terrain, and for me this results in a heavy bike, making it frustrating for climbing on XC terrain. Instead I just use a gravel bike on XC terrain and stay off the seat, using my body as suspension instead of relying on the bike technology. I have a Cannondale Slate though which has 30mm suspension on the fork, so it is a bit more forgiving on single track terrain than a traditional gravel bike. Generally I will ride the same terrain as I used to with my XC bike, but because the slate has narrow tires I can squeeze it between rocks or climb right over them if I have to. My bike weighs a little over 20lbs, so for me it is easier to manage than my XC bike which is quite heavy. I can't really afford to buy a $10K cross country bike so the gravel bike works fine, and if I want to get into some Gnarly terrain and hit some jumps, that is when I go to a bike park with my DH bike.
If I tried to ride your setup on my xc trails as fast as I like to go it would quickly turn into a sketchy, scary ride. Hardtails too. Even pro xc riders use full suspension now.
I rode a 29" hardtail (ok it wasnt great to be honest) but i know switched to a 26" cube stereo 140 and its waaay better as you get better. It just feels like you have more control and the 26" feels more aggressive. My opinion: 29" are good for beginners, but they get clunky and at some point, its better to go with 26" to 27,5"
Coming from a BMX background myself, and being on disability for a Brain Injury, as much as I find mountainbiking on my 700 dollar sportchek GT hardtail is fun, it seems to get a proper fully capable bike with tubeless compatible rims and 1x gearing and blah blah blah to not break your stuff on Vancouver Island Trails and get injured, you have to be a dentist to afford a half decent bike and then all the maintenance that goes with it. Not to mention the dirty looks I get from said rich folk on the trails because I still wear a BMX helmet, jeans and a T shirt, on my hardtail thats ready to fold in half if I drop down a curb. Its unfortunate how expensive mountainbiking is especially coming from BMX where a 1200 dollar BMX can easily hold up on a 12 stair drop, but a 700 dollar MTB will bend a rim dropping off a curb. Heck, the dirtjumper I had before could withstand hop 360's on flat ground but I couldnt put gears on it so thats the trade off for a climbing 29er under $1k, flimsy as hell, gets flats often cant go tubeless without replacing wheels etc. Such a gatekeeped by money activity.
I think if you have a wheel breaking problem or are heavy carbon wheels all the way. It is hard to beat aluminum wheels for value though.
Enjoyed my time on a 2020 sworks enduro till it cracked, now on a Geometron G1 and absolutely love not having to care about rock strikes & crashing
26" Gang Stand up
I consider 29’s to be the missionary style of wheel sizes. smart, safe, effective and not as much fun. I have a 2019 santa cruz bronson. Charles is straight party all the time. My next bike might be business in the front though
I do like aluminium frames but the welds can look horrible, especially when you are used to a carbon frame.
I think this is the best mid-video sponsor ad I've seen.
Narrower tires. I rode dirtbikes as a kid and teen so when i got my first mtb it was a duel suspension with 2.6 f/r and just assumed it was the best for me. Now i have 2.3s on my hardtail and 2.4/2.3 on my full.
In my opinion, if you like chunky terrain 29er, if you prefer flow and corner 27.5. I wish I could have both
thermoplastic carbon cranks would really be ideal from someone like Guerilla Gravity or Revel.
Not really component related as I am still experimenting with component materials but I did genuinely think that you was either a good rider or a bad rider not realising actually how much time you need to put into biking. Since I have started spending more time riding and concentrating on certain aspects at a time I have seen improvements.
Also I just wanted to ask, how you managed making RUclips videos alongside a full time University degree. You genuinely inspired me to start my own channel so I did, but have not uploaded for a few months due to university being full on, but I miss uploading and creating content. I wondered if you could make a video talking about managing uni life alongside RUclips life sharing some tips that made it slightly easier for you? thank you.
Hope you see this Nick! Have a good day!
In regards to higher end Alloy frames, your choices aren't bad these days....Nicolai, Raaw, Knolly, Actofive, Liteville and a few more
So funny, coming from dirt jumping and bmx I was the same way with suspension and tires. 4 years in I barely softened up my bike lol
As a big fella I usually exceed the weight limits for most carbon MTB products due to that I also have a fear of a catastrophic carbon failure, not saying that can't happen with Aluminium though, so the only carbon you'll find on my bikes is headset spacers.
I changed from my 26“ enduro hardtail to a 29“ endu hardtail. Like a new world
I always wanted an i9 hub until I greased my Xt freehub. The silence while riding is priceless. Now the Onyx racing hub is on my buy list. Maybe Dale got me into it...
Dale is a bad influence 😝
@@VanCan Dale is a fantastic influence. 🧠
@@DaleStone hahah legend
And that’s an entertaining sponsor spot 👍🏼
Nobel 🏆 on its way!
Great feedback vid, Nic. Forgot about the brains behind the bike knowledge, lol, appreciate the lil science experiment/product placement segment!
Honestly, haven't ridden the (new to me) Norco Sight yet, so, not sure what I would change. Will be my first 29er experience, which I am looking forward to, and don't think I would change, unless it's a fat bike.
Change my mind about tire inserts, no need to use them if you get a tougher tire like the Maxxis DD or DH casing.
I prefer the feeling of light tires and inserts. They roll faster and have tons of side wall support. I like a good DH tires, but they roll slow and even with the extra casing don’t seem to have the same side wall support or rim protection.
It would be good if there was some universal test and a rating for durability of bikes so it can be displayed as a spec when you buy
So the last big elephant in the room.. one that I never expected to change my mind on (I used to be a xc racer, ultramarathoner, audax roadie alpinist...) ... is have you changed your mind on eMtbs yet ? It's mostly just a matter of time.. once you go electric - you never go back, as the saying goes. That's basically all I do now.
As Rob Warners says, "Emtbs are the best thing to happen to mtb'ing since.. mtb'ing".
Well, I own one already haha
@@VanCan haha are you a closet emtb RUclipsr ? Don't want to ruffle your audience base?
I’ve posted two videos on it this year. But the reality is if I’m riding something good enough to make a video about, I want to be on my go to bike. Which is my Knolly Chilcotin.
@@VanCan fair enough :)
I'll check your other videos.
Tall big , you suit 29 , I am small and still ride 26 , suits me and my riding style. Also fully rigid , zero suspension 🙂
I basically have just started riding and I'm still scared of carbon handle bars.
Really I guess what keeps me away them the most is the wide range of of prices, knock offs, and etc. Yes, I see people do crazy things with PNW, Trail 1, and etc but there surely has to be a difference between $140 dollar carbon bars and $40 carbon bars... And at the same time there surely 4x the price difference between these various products.
Rev grips got some about 4 years ago as a gift and now all my bike have them. So much less arm pump.
Just looking at getting my first mountain bike, looking at something with 150/160mm travel. What is something anyone would recommend getting? Riding in Kelowna, Kamloops, and eventually, Whistler/Squamish. Cheers!
Your totally right about brands and carbon bikes. I am going to get a Cannondale Jekyll 2 hopefully soon and one thing I don’t like is that it only comes in carbon. The bike is very good but I wish they did an aluminum version with same spec for riders who prefer it over carbon.
28 inch wheels are the sweet spot
Thanks for being so open about your changes of opinion :-)
1000% my favourite sponsored segment of a video ever. Genuinely laughed
Nice bike, I'm still riding a 2014 endorphin, lol. I'm still undecided on what wheel size to get for my next bike, probably 29 but I think I'd like a 27.5 more
I agree with the plush suspension, and I would love to try carbon wheels but can’t justify the cost when my wheels are still in good shape
I came into MTB from the road, so for me climbing is just part of the game, and in fact on the road bike, hillier routes is what I'd look for. I also live in Ohio, and you're just not finding trails where you have long downhills, they don't exist. Our highest peak is just 1500 feet and almost no prominence to it.
Short travel and carbon frames, used to think it ok to get beat up on trails because I’m faster. Then I got a long travel trail bike 150/160 and can ride longer, faster with more comfort and yeah its a Aluminium frame. Tires make a big difference to with a less rolling resistant tire on my trails is so much less fatigue and still having good predicable grip.
I get a “real genius “ movie vibe from the magic spoon commercial lol
shoutout to knolly for their hard work
I’ve tried 29s, had 2 29s, one hard tail and one full sus, not my cup of tea, to big and I’m a tall guy to, wheels look to big for the bike and it feels like I’m going to fold the wheels in half, each to there own, 27.5 for me, and it’s a lot more fun on the trails than a 29er that’s for sure
I was scared at how light carbon bars were to hold my entire body up off a 15ft drop. I tried them and chenged my mind haha they're so good
Thanks for sharing your observations, I think a ton of riders could benefit from hearing them. I am always a bit stunned as to how many people have 'hates' or bias toward things they haven't tried but are sure of their stances. Its particularily rampant in the lower mainland. I've always been one to start a trend or purposely not follow them. I'm a bit of a Rogue wave.
I started riding 29 in 2008 and was blown away with the momentum and confidence even a steep XC hardtail would deliver. When it came to doing BC Bike Race in 2010 it was no question 29. My partner rode a S Works 26 FSR and I couldn't beleive how much harder he was working than I was, Admittedly the FS geo on 29's back in 2010 was pretty crap, too steep, chainstays too long etc but it wasn't long before a few brands like Chromag started figuring it out.
Anyway I went back to 27.5 for a enduro bike from 2014 to 2022 and just switched to a new Trek Slash 29. Its a great bike and I'm loving it but a well sorted 27.5 for the PNW is hardly going to hold a rider back especially if they have good technical skills and its going to be more playful. I liked the formula of 27.5 and 2.6 rubber.
Carbon Vs Alloy - I care more about execution and often Carbon isnt worth the extra $. Both can be made to be stiff, durable but its tough to make Alloy really light without comprimise. Wheels - ya I bought some NOLB's back in 2016 and they transformed my Alloy Remedy and took yrs of beating with only a single tension. That was pre boost so the affect on lateral stability and handling was bigger. Now with boost I still prefer Carbon for durability but the difference in weight/precsion etc for enduro isn't as black and white but I did opt for an Alloy Slash with a Carbon wheel upgrade. Seemed like a worthwhile upgrade as Trek credits you for stock wheels so it was about 1K not 2K. For XC/Trail and Gravel riding where weight and energy conservation are more critical - def. Carbon if you can afford it but like anything check the details, theres lots of heavier carbon or wheels like the new Zipps with really thin 2mm lips I would not trust to last as a heavier rider. NOBL and Bontrager make great wheels for the $ with excellent warranties.
*Coming Down A Rough Trail:* Man, that run was slow, suspension must not be hard enough. Lol.
I Kind of tend to be that same way, though. I've gone to the bike park on my enduro bike, and I thought I should run harder suspension for the big jumps, but soon realized that wasn't the answer.
I've tried multiple 29ers. 3x hardtails and 2x Full suspension. Just not my thing at all. Every bike I've owned that has 'just felt right' is a 26er or 27.5. And I'm not a little guy either at 5'11" and 180. 29er just always feels awkward and floppy.
I think I'm the opposite on the AL vs Carbon thing. I started out thinking metal is stronger/better but after spending time on PNW blacks/double blacks and park on carbon bikes with zero issues I'm good there. FWIW I've owned 3 Evil carbon bike and not managed to break one yet. :D
I'm 6'1 and 200 lbs, riding a Rocky Mountain Altitude C50 29" and I'll probably never go back to 27.5 again. I think the difference of an inch or 2 in a rider's height is enough to either love or hate bigger wheel sizes. But again, personally the 29" feels perfectly proportionate for my long arms and legs. I feel like I'm in the bike more so than on it.
Coming from a Trek Remedy 27.5 the Altitude feels so much better to ride.
Just my subjective view on it though needless to say. Hopefully 27.5 will stay around for the foreseeable future and consumers will have the option to pick which size suits them best 👌
@@michaelmcdermott9445 I definitely think it's preference. I actually prefer a big bike, but with smaller wheels. I'm on an Evil Insurgent which is fairly long and of course a bunch of travel. I'm with you, I hope different wheel sizes stay around so that we have the option!
Well you gotta love the RUclips algorithm. Shows me this video after I just bought my 1st carbon frame lol......
Nothing wrong with a good carbon bike, I'll probably ride one again one day. My point was that I thought alu wasn't any good, which definitely isn't true!
@vancan i just picked up a knolly fugitive 138 in raw aluminum. Curious do i have to worry about corrosion? Any special care i have to take? Polish, cleaning, etc. Appreciate all the info in your videos!
I never did anything special with my raw frame and as far as I know you don’t need to. But you can always email Knolly and they’ll gladly help you
Riding alloy frame and components since 2003. Im not a carbon mountain biker period . I need metal between my legs bombing down the mountain so I totally agree brother. 👍