when using antique on leather, you apply a resist material, allow to dry, then apply your antique. Wipe antique off and it will only remain in the valleys of the engraving, wiping off the surface material. Then apply your surface finish to seal the antique in. you also need to be careful with chrome tanned leathers, some will release chlorine gas and other bad stuff when burned. thirdly, stretch is not a good indicator if the leather is faux or genuine; at all.
How long did it take to engrave that patch? And how long will it take to engrave 20 patches that size? I’m new to my laser and for my 2x2 inch patch it takes about 10 mins. 😩.
Thank you for being an Omtech customer. We see you have some questions regarding your machine. Our techs will be more than happy to help answer all your questions. Please contact us at techsupport@omtechlaser.com we're also available by phone at (949)438-4949 during the business hours of 8:00AM - 5:00PM PST Monday-Friday. Thank you for your support.
I prefer to use a leather conditioner to clean the patch. I'm thinking the scrubber has chemicals that would dry out the leather. For engraving, I use 200 speed and 9 power. For cutting I use 60 speed and 20 power with two passes to minimize burn marks.
This is a bit of a brown mess. "Good air assist", I quote, is the last thing you want with any engraving, especially leather, as this blows all the tar fumes back onto the job. and is 70% the reason for the brown deposit. For those that want to try a different technique for clean engraving. A) turn the air assist to just a whisper. B) put the black and white image into something like Gimp or Photoshop and change the image to mid grey (RGB=128). Import the grey image into Lightburn, and chose a sensible line spacing (0.1mm or a bit bigger). Use the DITHER option to process the image. always run at low power.(it may be 12 to 20% depending on your tube) and speed 100 to 200mm/s. Hmmmm. Notice the difference?
when using antique on leather, you apply a resist material, allow to dry, then apply your antique. Wipe antique off and it will only remain in the valleys of the engraving, wiping off the surface material. Then apply your surface finish to seal the antique in.
you also need to be careful with chrome tanned leathers, some will release chlorine gas and other bad stuff when burned.
thirdly, stretch is not a good indicator if the leather is faux or genuine; at all.
Fantastic video!!! I need to get my hands on one of these soon. Found you guys a few weeks ago. My I ask, do you guys offer any affiliate programs?
That’s wild I do 350mm/sec at 10% power on my 60 watt. I wonder why you need to use nearly twice the power and way slower than mine.
How did you select and delete the cut lines on the inside after you ungrouped? Thank you!
Do you put any liquid to the magic eraser?
Do CO2 lasers burn better? I have a 20w xtool that has served me well (I'm saving up for a c02)...just curious if CO2s lay down a better char? Thanks
What size are those magnets?
How long did it take to engrave that patch? And how long will it take to engrave 20 patches that size? I’m new to my laser and for my 2x2 inch patch it takes about 10 mins. 😩.
Thank you for being an Omtech customer. We see you have some questions regarding your machine. Our techs will be more than happy to help answer all your questions. Please contact us at techsupport@omtechlaser.com we're also available by phone at (949)438-4949 during the business hours of 8:00AM - 5:00PM PST Monday-Friday. Thank you for your support.
I would love to get a camera like that can you help me
That's awesome!
Leather is an exceptional and game-changing material to work with!
After using that stain and sealant, will the patch be safe if attached to something thrown in the wash?
Always avoid washing leather.
How about chrome tan leather? Thank you for this video.
Chrome tan is a big No into lasers. They make toxic fumes
Which machine are you using?
I prefer to use a leather conditioner to clean the patch. I'm thinking the scrubber has chemicals that would dry out the leather. For engraving, I use 200 speed and 9 power. For cutting I use 60 speed and 20 power with two passes to minimize burn marks.
We appreciate your input, Joshua!
You can buy plain magic erasers. It basically acts as a microfine sandpaper to clean. afterward you can condition the leather.
the normal magic erasers do not contain any chemicals. he had it moistened in the video
@@margyg Melamine Foam, for anyone who wants to look for this
This is a bit of a brown mess. "Good air assist", I quote, is the last thing you want with any engraving, especially leather, as this blows all the tar fumes back onto the job. and is 70% the reason for the brown deposit.
For those that want to try a different technique for clean engraving. A) turn the air assist to just a whisper. B) put the black and white image into something like Gimp or Photoshop and change the image to mid grey (RGB=128). Import the grey image into Lightburn, and chose a sensible line spacing (0.1mm or a bit bigger). Use the DITHER option to process the image. always run at low power.(it may be 12 to 20% depending on your tube) and speed 100 to 200mm/s. Hmmmm. Notice the difference?
What camera are you using? I have a 55W Omtech as well and would like to add a camera to my system.
Feel free to message Max on Instagram @laserbeastlab
so dumb question. can i use dollar tree faux leather?
Ciao. I fumi sono tossici? Grazie
Ciao, il mio amico italiano! I fumi provenienti dalla pelle non trattata non sono molto tossici, ma è comunque importante una buona ventilazione.
Is this a 40w? 50w? 80w?
says 55W @1:32
Can you give me info on your engraver
Where do you get your leather from?
Tandy leather is a good hobby resource