168 hours in a week. We are aiming for 2 weeks of cold weather. Doesn't help when earlier in the week, we got over 70 degrees in the middle of winter. I still have leaves on my trees from the late bloom last fall.
Hi. I'm in SE Georgia and have two specific plum tree related questions. First, full disclosure, I graft my own trees because so few nurseries graft on rootstocks that work in my soil, and it saves me a considerable amount of money. Here are the qestions: 1 Retail garden centers around here constantly sell their customers a pro-biotic whenever they buy a tree or shrub. in your opinion, if a soil is already a sandy loam with plenty of organic material in it as mine does, would that really probiotic mix really make enough difference with the mycorrhizal community already in the soil to make a real difference to the tree? 2 The peach stem borer and disease pressure on stone fruit in my super humid 9a climate is spectacular. Until I learned the trick of grafting all my Asian and hybrid type cultivars onto the suckers of local Chickasaw (P. angustifolia) cultivars I was unable to even get the Asian and hybrid type plums released by the breeding programs in Byron Georgia and Auburn University to live longer than three years. There were two exceptions, one was a Methley which came from California and was grafted onto Mariana 2624. That tree does great. The other was a Robusto that was grafted so close to the ground that it rooted itself. The regional Chickasaw cultivars all do great here and will live 50 or 60 years with zero care as long as they don't get shaded out or stangled by vines. Then I tried grafting the Asian and hybrid types onto the chickasaw cultivars to see what happen. They all do great and make big healthy productive trees. Why aren't chickasaw cultivars being used as rootstock by nurseries? I have three chickasaw cultivars that make big enough roots and trunks to support 20ft trees. (Not that I let my trees get that big anymore.) Two of the strains have never once shown any sign of disease or borers. The other will occasionally get a borer, but the borers never get far in any of my trees of this strain. When I do get borers they are always above the graft and are easy to spot and deal with. All three strains originated from suckers from trees that were abandoned for decades at old home sights in Georgia or southern Mississippi. I just don't understand why nurseries that supply garden centers in the deep south put all their plum scions on peach which gets crown gall, borers or bacterial stem canker under our conditions after about three years and often within the same growing season the tree was planted. Note that I've grown out a Mariana 2624 sucker in a neighbor's yard, and it does fine here as a stand-alone tree with no disease issues. Consequently, I'm fairly convinced it's a much better choice than the rootstocks used by the nurseries that supply the garden centers in our area. (All the scions I've tested grow faster the first year on Toole's Heirloom Chickasaw and N.C. McKibben Chickasaw than on Mariana 2624. I'm growing out Segundo on Toole's Heirloom and Mariana 2624 to see how they compare long term. At the end of the first year the one on Mariana 2624 is about 4 ft. It needs to be pruned back to about 3 ft. The one on Toole's Heirloom is about 7ft and needs to be cut back to about 5 ft.)
My plums and plout trees were doing great until I put vaseline on the trunk to keep ants off them. In fact, all my fruit trees died. I just replaced them. Hope they are as good. I has satsuma and santa rosa and multi plout tree.
Mix boric acid with fruit jelly. If you can, follow the ant trail back to the nest. Set the jelly mix wherever you see the ants. This will remove the entire colony.
My Flavor Queen is in blooming now. Was the 1st to bloom. Sweet treat, candy heart, Inca plum, flavor grenade, blemheim, santa rosa all are just now getting ready to bloom. Dapple dandy Flavor king, Cot-N-Candy, Flavor supreme, Peacotum are barely breaking bud. Nectaplum is in full bloom. Double Delight, Red baron and Yellow dohnut are are coloring up expect blooms this week. Crimson royal, Royal lee, Minnie Royal will all be in bloom this week. Lapins hasn't broke bud yet. 03/19/24 Inland Empire.
I have all the pluot trees mentioned in this video (planted in a row). Flavor King is by far the worst producer. I've only gotten one fruit in three years.
I planted my burgundy plum 2 weeks ago from Laguna Hills Nursery. It already has buds coming out of the lower branches. Love it!
168 hours in a week. We are aiming for 2 weeks of cold weather. Doesn't help when earlier in the week, we got over 70 degrees in the middle of winter. I still have leaves on my trees from the late bloom last fall.
I still had leaves on some of my apple trees until I stripped them by hand earlier this week.
Hi. I'm in SE Georgia and have two specific plum tree related questions. First, full disclosure, I graft my own trees because so few nurseries graft on rootstocks that work in my soil, and it saves me a considerable amount of money. Here are the qestions:
1 Retail garden centers around here constantly sell their customers a pro-biotic whenever they buy a tree or shrub. in your opinion, if a soil is already a sandy loam with plenty of organic material in it as mine does, would that really probiotic mix really make enough difference with the mycorrhizal community already in the soil to make a real difference to the tree?
2 The peach stem borer and disease pressure on stone fruit in my super humid 9a climate is spectacular. Until I learned the trick of grafting all my Asian and hybrid type cultivars onto the suckers of local Chickasaw (P. angustifolia) cultivars I was unable to even get the Asian and hybrid type plums released by the breeding programs in Byron Georgia and Auburn University to live longer than three years. There were two exceptions, one was a Methley which came from California and was grafted onto Mariana 2624. That tree does great. The other was a Robusto that was grafted so close to the ground that it rooted itself. The regional Chickasaw cultivars all do great here and will live 50 or 60 years with zero care as long as they don't get shaded out or stangled by vines. Then I tried grafting the Asian and hybrid types onto the chickasaw cultivars to see what happen. They all do great and make big healthy productive trees. Why aren't chickasaw cultivars being used as rootstock by nurseries? I have three chickasaw cultivars that make big enough roots and trunks to support 20ft trees. (Not that I let my trees get that big anymore.) Two of the strains have never once shown any sign of disease or borers. The other will occasionally get a borer, but the borers never get far in any of my trees of this strain. When I do get borers they are always above the graft and are easy to spot and deal with. All three strains originated from suckers from trees that were abandoned for decades at old home sights in Georgia or southern Mississippi. I just don't understand why nurseries that supply garden centers in the deep south put all their plum scions on peach which gets crown gall, borers or bacterial stem canker under our conditions after about three years and often within the same growing season the tree was planted. Note that I've grown out a Mariana 2624 sucker in a neighbor's yard, and it does fine here as a stand-alone tree with no disease issues. Consequently, I'm fairly convinced it's a much better choice than the rootstocks used by the nurseries that supply the garden centers in our area. (All the scions I've tested grow faster the first year on Toole's Heirloom Chickasaw and N.C. McKibben Chickasaw than on Mariana 2624. I'm growing out Segundo on Toole's Heirloom and Mariana 2624 to see how they compare long term. At the end of the first year the one on Mariana 2624 is about 4 ft. It needs to be pruned back to about 3 ft. The one on Toole's Heirloom is about 7ft and needs to be cut back to about 5 ft.)
The ants at my house laugh at Amdro. They walk around it.😂
A wild plum tree grew in my yard. The whole tree fills with fruit. Extremely sweet. Cherry sized.
Shake off 50% so plums grow bigger. How yrs did it take to fruit?
@@alirE2904 I don't remember. Maybe 5.
@@sheckydiamond7533 no, not too long. Lucky.
@@alirE2904 Only if you want tiny fruit. Just imagine eating 40 of them, and then wondering why .
Very helpful. Thank you!
My plums and plout trees were doing great until I put vaseline on the trunk to keep ants off them. In fact, all my fruit trees died. I just replaced them. Hope they are as good. I has satsuma and santa rosa and multi plout tree.
We're they planted in compost? Sounds impossible to lose all trees. Sounds like a lack of water or root rot from bad soil.
@@robkeller3431 no the trees that did not get vaseline are ok.
Mix boric acid with fruit jelly. If you can, follow the ant trail back to the nest. Set the jelly mix wherever you see the ants. This will remove the entire colony.
My Flavor Queen is in blooming now. Was the 1st to bloom. Sweet treat, candy heart, Inca plum, flavor grenade, blemheim, santa rosa all are just now getting ready to bloom. Dapple dandy Flavor king, Cot-N-Candy, Flavor supreme, Peacotum are barely breaking bud. Nectaplum is in full bloom. Double Delight, Red baron and Yellow dohnut are are coloring up expect blooms this week. Crimson royal, Royal lee, Minnie Royal will all be in bloom this week. Lapins hasn't broke bud yet.
03/19/24 Inland Empire.
Info starts after 8:00 mark.
I have all the pluot trees mentioned in this video (planted in a row). Flavor King is by far the worst producer. I've only gotten one fruit in three years.
Gophers. Is the only problem for my plums.
I had that problem. I ended up calling a gopher the kill, and they killed them all. I call them now and then if one pops up again.
Introduce a predator. Snake, hawk, falcon...... Flush the gopher holes with a sewer jet line.