More of these little tutorials would be awesome. How to wire pots, push-pull wiring, DPDT, SPDT, etc. switches, some of the most basic amp troubleshooting techniques. There's hardly anyone I'd trust more to get that info from.
Thanks very much Johnny. I think I’ve finally been able to get the camera and lighting and such to a level that can show that kind of detailed work, so look for more in the future.
Ive been using those pancake jacks for everything that needs a right angle for years. Speaker cable, patch cable, instrument cable. I use the TRS version for my instrument cable to my guitar so i can use the ring connection to send a DC voltage 9-18v to my active pickups so i don't need batterie in them anymore. The first pedal in my signal chain has an 1/8" jack i added that I plug a DROK variable dc power supply into and that jack is connected to the input jack ring connection which passes the dc voltage through the TRS cable to the guitar. That way i can send a precise voltage to the pickups that atays consistent. So my active pickup guitars are plug and play, no batteries nessesary just like my passive guitars. Plus i hated how much my tone varied when i was using batteries. From one day to the next i could tell a difference. But using the power supply i always get the same output and tone for a given voltage. Anyways that was a ramble, point was i love those pancake jacks (the good ones at least, as Lyle likely knows they ARE NOT all created equal quality wise lol).
I know soldering the wires to the speaker lugs is supposed to be more secure but I am aware that "Heat" is'nt a friend to the voice-coil, I just crimp the connectors so they don't slip off . Seen speaker cones with holes from solder blobs burning through the paper cone and some speakers fail if the iron gets too much time on the speaker lug. I trust myself but if anyone out there is going to DIY then watch this video at-least 10 times and maybe stick a bit of insulatining tape over the "positive" on the angled jack just so it does'nt short on the cover plate when you close the connector(usually theres a small tab on the inside of the cover but check anyway) , thanks for a very useful video tutorial!
Sometimes those right angle plugs come with a little insulator disc to ensure the center connection doesn't short to the top of the shell. Maybe the video simply doesn't show it. The method used to connect the center pin should avoid the issue in most cases. I think it's worth a mention, as a belt and suspenders guy, if no insulator, add a piece of tape over the center pin before closing.
I can't express how much I appreciate your channel and the massive amounts of quality information you impart to us guitar players and DIY enthusiasts. Thank You.
I learned the "towel on the floor" trick for catching errant screws the hard way. I have carpet on the floor and many a time I'd be lying on the floor sweeping the area under my chair with a magnet.
Another great informative video! Lyle is the best at this. Another tip I have used for years on cable connectors is to dap a small amount of 5 or 15 minute epoxy into the cavity before screwing the 2 halves together. Just another layer of protection to keep everything from coming loose and I have never had a connection fail or wire pull out. Thank you Lyle for all of these great videos!
Thanks for posting this! We do these mundane tasks without a second thought, but it’s great to see a solid repeatable method demonstrated. I remember the first time I opened one of those pancake jacks. It was not immediately obvious how to connect it. And yes, in lieu of a broken pedal, I use a 2x4 with a hole in it!
I must be doing it right. I've made many speaker cables exactly how you described. I do appreciate you mentioning the temps you use for different applications. I've been backing off on my heat and getting better results.
@psionic audio after watching your amps under $1000. I purchased a DSL 40CR. I’m currently waiting on fedex. Wish me luck it gets here in one piece. I thought $700 new shipped to my house was a pretty good deal. Thanks for all the great videos.
Thanks for the useful information. Explaining it while showing it as well, plus the important prep tips are very helpful for the average players [like me] who do their own minor repairs/maintenance.
I do not like the StaKon connectors on speakers either ,I have a 2x12 amp that has StaKon connectors on the speakers and one of them worked thier way off ,so I just soldered all the connections ,Nice tutorial Lyle
If you're going to use terminals instead of soldering, make sure to measure and see if the lugs are .205" or .25". Many off-the-shelf cables that have terminals on one end use the more common .25", even though many popular speaker brands use .205" lugs. I learned this the hard way when one of mine slipped off, I was lucky to catch it before damaging the output transformer. Since then, I solder everything if I know I like the speakers, or I at least use the proper terminal size while trying them out.
Lyle, apologies if this is a dumb question, but does speaker polarity matter in a single-speaker amp or cabinet? I can see why it matters if you have more than one speaker, but don't understand why it matters with a single speaker. Also, SquarePlug SP400 (or SP500) low profile right-angle plugs are an excellent option for Fender amps. Thanks for your work on RUclips
I had a bag of those "pancake" right angle jacks ready to wire up a pedal switcher unit. Problem - jack sockets too close together for the width of the jacks. Yes there are narrower right-angled jacks But they stand out further, space is at a premium. Solution - Tin snips. I cut a segment from the side of the jack bases then bent the covers over to match.
Glad your back's on the mend. Mine likes to go out about once per year at which point I have to camp out on my living room floor for 3 days. No fun. What IS fun though is that lovely specimen of an SKX007. Might it be a J?
Same applies to setscrews for chicken head knobs and banana plugs. A quote from a manual for a Threshold stereo amplifier: Do not completely loosen the setscrews for the banana plugs because they will fall onto the floor and quickly migrate into another universe".
Lyle... what's your opinion on using spade connectors in such case? I just made a speaker cable for my Fender Super-Sonic 22 combo and now thinking betweem soldering and spade connectors. I have been upgrading and "fixing" my amp with everything you (and Brad - shout out to Brad and Brad's Guitar Garage) have shown, told and explained. Thanks!
Occasionally referred to in some quarters as a "hollow-ground" screwdriver for whatever reason. To me, its a flat-head, flat-blade or straight-blade screwdriver....
Borna and raised in the north ( Philadelphia Pennsylvania) and we called it the same thing. I think people need to stop with the political correct crap. I am 56 years old and we had different names for different things growing up.
Looking at the manual it appears the timeout on the Hakko 971 can be set as long as 60min, or turned off entirely (but being a Hakko it takes a bazillion button presses to navigate their weird-ass menu system)
And yet, an ancient Weller TCP type soldering station (24volt AC supply and magnetic heat control) on my day-job workbench ran for over 15 years, 8 hours a day,, 5 days a week,, on the same heating element. Tips were good for about 3 months, and to increase the temp you changed to a "hotter" tip.
I’ve been soldering PCBs, guitars, amps, etc for a couple of years but I’ve always wonder if there is a minimum temp on the soldering iron to avoid a cold joint? I guess the material soldering onto is a key factor to the answer. Feels like anything below 300 degrees won’t get the job done. I don’t wanna overheat the component either. For an example, how much heat can a potentiometer take before damaging it?
Yeah I use the 2x4 with a hole drilled in it method - and I also have this same pedal but in working order. I needed a speaker cable for a combo amp and should have built my own but bought one off of ebay to "save time" and the cable for bridging the 2 speakers was way too short. Should have just built my own. It would have been cheaper and done properly. Lesson learned I guess.
Great stuff Lyle. Just 1 quest. Back in the day i bought a tube of rosin soldering flux from radio shack that has lasted me 20+ tears. I used it for pretty much all soldering to avoid cold joints with 60/40 solder. I don't see people using that anymore. Is it now incorporated into the solder itself? Thanks!
The solder I use is has a core of resin flux, so it’s flux and solder at the same time. Occasionally I’ll reach for a flux pen if any extra is needed. But that’s pretty rare. The solder I use is listed in the video descriptions.
@@MarioV689 , I have an old container of Weller rosin flux, a piney-smelling resin that has some crystals forming but still works good when soldering to a heavy chassis ---- offers some additional oxide removal and heat transfer. Unfortunately, some of the fluxes sold on ebay or Amazon are repackaged acid fluxes of a type suited for waterpipes but are being resold to unsuspecting newbie electronics hoppyists.
Hi Lyle, hope the back pain subsides soon. Glad it's not more serious! With the wire wrapped around the terminals and soldered, how hard is it to remove again if you're one to regularly swap speakers? Any tips on that part?
I liked all the work terminating the plug, but I didn't like the plug. It looked a bit cheap. I'd prefer something cast or machined over pressed sheet with plating. I do like the attention to detail, and the voiceover explaining the thinking behind it.
Well these Switchcrafts are pretty well field tested at this point, but the pancake isn’t usually my favorite design. Great for a Fender combo where it needs not to protrude and not interfere with the rear panel. For other amps or standalone cables I prefer Neutrik and Amphenol. But the soldering technique is much the same.
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
More of these little tutorials would be awesome. How to wire pots, push-pull wiring, DPDT, SPDT, etc. switches, some of the most basic amp troubleshooting techniques. There's hardly anyone I'd trust more to get that info from.
Thanks very much Johnny. I think I’ve finally been able to get the camera and lighting and such to a level that can show that kind of detailed work, so look for more in the future.
I agree. It would help my skills a great deal😂.
@@PsionicAudiothanks Lyle
Ive been using those pancake jacks for everything that needs a right angle for years. Speaker cable, patch cable, instrument cable. I use the TRS version for my instrument cable to my guitar so i can use the ring connection to send a DC voltage 9-18v to my active pickups so i don't need batterie in them anymore. The first pedal in my signal chain has an 1/8" jack i added that I plug a DROK variable dc power supply into and that jack is connected to the input jack ring connection which passes the dc voltage through the TRS cable to the guitar. That way i can send a precise voltage to the pickups that atays consistent. So my active pickup guitars are plug and play, no batteries nessesary just like my passive guitars. Plus i hated how much my tone varied when i was using batteries. From one day to the next i could tell a difference. But using the power supply i always get the same output and tone for a given voltage. Anyways that was a ramble, point was i love those pancake jacks (the good ones at least, as Lyle likely knows they ARE NOT all created equal quality wise lol).
THis man has a great "radio" voice. Love listening to him work
It's " 1960s" Bruce Wayne moonlighting , he does lots of voice-overs for TV and Radio.
I’ve always done strip positive 😊 because it’s an addition
I know soldering the wires to the speaker lugs is supposed to be more secure but I am aware that "Heat" is'nt a friend to the voice-coil, I just crimp the connectors so they don't slip off . Seen speaker cones with holes from solder blobs burning through the paper cone and some speakers fail if the iron gets too much time on the speaker lug. I trust myself but if anyone out there is going to DIY then watch this video at-least 10 times and maybe stick a bit of insulatining tape over the "positive" on the angled jack just so it does'nt short on the cover plate when you close the connector(usually theres a small tab on the inside of the cover but check anyway) , thanks for a very useful video tutorial!
More soldering tips and commentary would be sooo great. thanks for all that you do.!!
Sometimes those right angle plugs come with a little insulator disc to ensure the center connection doesn't short to the top of the shell. Maybe the video simply doesn't show it. The method used to connect the center pin should avoid the issue in most cases. I think it's worth a mention, as a belt and suspenders guy, if no insulator, add a piece of tape over the center pin before closing.
I can really relate when you said “ I’ll find that later when walking barefoot”. Little bastards are painful
Finding that piece of clipped wire is good but even better when your wife finds it early morning is priceless!
It's more likely for me to step on an earring, or one of the studs from behind an earing, that my wife dropped on the floor.....
I can't express how much I appreciate your channel and the massive amounts of quality information you impart to us guitar players and DIY enthusiasts. Thank You.
Perhaps one the most usable and informative videos ever posted on the RUclipss!!! Thanks, Lyle!
Oh, I dunno. “How not to be eaten by a rhinoceros” back in 2011 literally changed my life.
I learned the "towel on the floor" trick for catching errant screws the hard way. I have carpet on the floor and many a time I'd be lying on the floor sweeping the area under my chair with a magnet.
I am from Philadelphia Pennsylvania and i am 56 years old . I don't care who likes it . Its also a flat head screwdriver.
Another great informative video! Lyle is the best at this. Another tip I have used for years on cable connectors is to dap a small amount of 5 or 15 minute epoxy into the cavity before screwing the 2 halves together. Just another layer of protection to keep everything from coming loose and I have never had a connection fail or wire pull out. Thank you Lyle for all of these great videos!
Thanks for posting this! We do these mundane tasks without a second thought, but it’s great to see a solid repeatable method demonstrated. I remember the first time I opened one of those pancake jacks. It was not immediately obvious how to connect it. And yes, in lieu of a broken pedal, I use a 2x4 with a hole in it!
I have a chunk of 2×4 with RCA, XLR, and 1/4" jacks mounted to it, as a jig for holding connectors when soldering a cable to them.
I must be doing it right. I've made many speaker cables exactly how you described. I do appreciate you mentioning the temps you use for different applications. I've been backing off on my heat and getting better results.
Hakko's 951 is the station of my choice as well. The safety features were one of the reasons I purchased it.
Strippers and blow- oh my!! Wish I'd seen this 40 years ago! Great demo - thanks!
Aww where's the twang? ✌
Gotta hear that V30 sound! Yeah!!
I like using harvested lampcord and vacuum cleaner ac cable harvested from recycling etc.
several good instructional tips in this, good job, thanks
Thank you. I took an electronics class in high school but that was FORTY YEARS AGO!
@psionic audio after watching your amps under $1000. I purchased a DSL 40CR. I’m currently waiting on fedex. Wish me luck it gets here in one piece. I thought $700 new shipped to my house was a pretty good deal. Thanks for all the great videos.
From Leo: Good tip on the junk pedal to hold the plug. I drilled a hole in the top of my soldering station and installed a jack.
A nice neat job and I drilled holes at different angles slightly smaller and tapered them into a block of wood so the plug doesn't move.
Thanks for the useful information. Explaining it while showing it as well, plus the important prep tips are very helpful for the average players [like me] who do their own minor repairs/maintenance.
Good stuff, Lyle. Thank you!
Really handy to have extra length for attenuators.
With speaker cable polarity I was always told "red to ribbed"
I use a block of wood with a 1/4" hole for this kind of stuff because it doesn't act like a giant heat sink
I do not like the StaKon connectors on speakers either ,I have a 2x12 amp that has StaKon connectors on the speakers and one of them worked thier way off ,so I just soldered all the connections ,Nice tutorial Lyle
Really enjoy your videos 👍🏽
If you're going to use terminals instead of soldering, make sure to measure and see if the lugs are .205" or .25". Many off-the-shelf cables that have terminals on one end use the more common .25", even though many popular speaker brands use .205" lugs. I learned this the hard way when one of mine slipped off, I was lucky to catch it before damaging the output transformer. Since then, I solder everything if I know I like the speakers, or I at least use the proper terminal size while trying them out.
Lyle, apologies if this is a dumb question, but does speaker polarity matter in a single-speaker amp or cabinet? I can see why it matters if you have more than one speaker, but don't understand why it matters with a single speaker. Also, SquarePlug SP400 (or SP500) low profile right-angle plugs are an excellent option for Fender amps. Thanks for your work on RUclips
I had a bag of those "pancake" right angle jacks ready to wire up a pedal switcher unit.
Problem - jack sockets too close together for the width of the jacks.
Yes there are narrower right-angled jacks But they stand out further, space is at a premium.
Solution - Tin snips. I cut a segment from the side of the jack bases then bent the covers over to match.
nice old Seiko diver, too ;)
Thanks! It’s actually one of the new GMTs on an Uncle Seiko tropic. Newest toy.
Stripe, strip or raised ridge(s) is the neutral for any AC zip cord lamp wire, so yes it is supposed to be the negative for DC.
Nice vid! The Redco Audio Squareplugs (SP400-600) are excellent for these, if a little pricey
Glad your back's on the mend. Mine likes to go out about once per year at which point I have to camp out on my living room floor for 3 days. No fun. What IS fun though is that lovely specimen of an SKX007. Might it be a J?
Ouch, sorry you joined my club. It’s actually one of the new SSK003 GMTs.
"I'll find that later when i am walking around barefoot". been there!!
Same applies to setscrews for chicken head knobs and banana plugs. A quote from a manual for a Threshold stereo amplifier: Do not completely loosen the setscrews for the banana plugs because they will fall onto the floor and quickly migrate into another universe".
Lyle... what's your opinion on using spade connectors in such case? I just made a speaker cable for my Fender Super-Sonic 22 combo and now thinking betweem soldering and spade connectors. I have been upgrading and "fixing" my amp with everything you (and Brad - shout out to Brad and Brad's Guitar Garage) have shown, told and explained. Thanks!
I don’t like quick connects. Solder is so much safer for your amp. If you use QCs make sure the connections are clean and tight.
We’re in the South, it’s a flat head screwdriver. 😂
I hear ya mang.
Occasionally referred to in some quarters as a "hollow-ground" screwdriver for whatever reason. To me, its a flat-head, flat-blade or straight-blade screwdriver....
I'm on the other side of the Ocean and it's still a 'flat head' ... I don't know anyone who calls it anything different.
Borna and raised in the north ( Philadelphia Pennsylvania) and we called it the same thing. I think people need to stop with the political correct crap. I am 56 years old and we had different names for different things growing up.
Looking at the manual it appears the timeout on the Hakko 971 can be set as long as 60min, or turned off entirely (but being a Hakko it takes a bazillion button presses to navigate their weird-ass menu system)
And yet, an ancient Weller TCP type soldering station (24volt AC supply and magnetic heat control) on my day-job workbench ran for over 15 years, 8 hours a day,, 5 days a week,, on the same heating element. Tips were good for about 3 months, and to increase the temp you changed to a "hotter" tip.
Should you do anything different for a guitar cable or pedal cable?
@Psionic audio We’ve seen (and heard) a pretty wide variety of speakers in a DRRI on here but not a V30. What’s your opinion on it ?
It’s a little bass shy in the open back 1x12 cab with these dimensions. But a nice sound.
I’ve been soldering PCBs, guitars, amps, etc for a couple of years but I’ve always wonder if there is a minimum temp on the soldering iron to avoid a cold joint? I guess the material soldering onto is a key factor to the answer. Feels like anything below 300 degrees won’t get the job done.
I don’t wanna overheat the component either. For an example, how much heat can a potentiometer take before damaging it?
Yeah I use the 2x4 with a hole drilled in it method - and I also have this same pedal but in working order.
I needed a speaker cable for a combo amp and should have built my own but bought one off of ebay to "save time" and the cable for bridging the 2 speakers was way too short. Should have just built my own. It would have been cheaper and done properly. Lesson learned I guess.
GREAT to know your problem ISN'T related to structural failure(s)...!!!👍👍
A pulled muscle is NO fun...but will calm down in time😉👍
Great stuff Lyle. Just 1 quest. Back in the day i bought a tube of rosin soldering flux from radio shack that has lasted me 20+ tears. I used it for pretty much all soldering to avoid cold joints with 60/40 solder. I don't see people using that anymore. Is it now incorporated into the solder itself? Thanks!
The solder I use is has a core of resin flux, so it’s flux and solder at the same time. Occasionally I’ll reach for a flux pen if any extra is needed. But that’s pretty rare.
The solder I use is listed in the video descriptions.
@@PsionicAudio thanks for the info!
@@MarioV689 , I have an old container of Weller rosin flux, a piney-smelling resin that has some crystals forming but still works good when soldering to a heavy chassis ---- offers some additional oxide removal and heat transfer. Unfortunately, some of the fluxes sold on ebay or Amazon are repackaged acid fluxes of a type suited for waterpipes but are being resold to unsuspecting newbie electronics hoppyists.
hi, is it necessary to twist the positive and negative cables? thanks
Not electronically, but it gives the cable more mechanical strength.
@@PsionicAudio Oh I see. Thanks!
Attention to detail
Ah nice. Need that for my ri twin 65.
Btw it is safe using led solder up to what temp? The fumes can be toxic if heated too much I was told.
Electronics solder melts at far, far below the boiling point/vapor point of lead (about 3000 Degrees Fahrenheit!).
Ribbed is red… someone taught me that way back when.
Hi Lyle, hope the back pain subsides soon. Glad it's not more serious! With the wire wrapped around the terminals and soldered, how hard is it to remove again if you're one to regularly swap speakers? Any tips on that part?
Not that hard, you can kind of unwrap it without splaying the wires.
Out of the kindness of his heart, Lyle did NOT charge to the pedal company a product placement fee.
Thank you for the video
What do you have against quick-connect terminals for hooking up the speaker wire to the speaker?
It fails. Commonly.
@@PsionicAudio Do you mean the vibrations wiggle the connector loose?
I liked all the work terminating the plug, but I didn't like the plug. It looked a bit cheap. I'd prefer something cast or machined over pressed sheet with plating. I do like the attention to detail, and the voiceover explaining the thinking behind it.
Well these Switchcrafts are pretty well field tested at this point, but the pancake isn’t usually my favorite design. Great for a Fender combo where it needs not to protrude and not interfere with the rear panel.
For other amps or standalone cables I prefer Neutrik and Amphenol.
But the soldering technique is much the same.
So 18 AWG copper wire would be alright for this amp?
Yes
How would I know if an amp needed to use the standby switch? Ask you!!!!!!
Groovy Vidz. Thanhkz 4Tha Nfo. 2 Live iz 2 Fly
Never been a fan of those Switchcrap connectors. A real pita to work with, can’t use thick wire, and a short circuit waiting to happen.
I use a piece of 2X4 with a 1/4" hole when i solder plugs. lol I like to go low tech.
Take the nut off the input jack and push the jack into the case. No more wobble.
It is what it is Flat Head 😂
Strip should be positive
Wait fo th' beep. You gotta leave your name, you gotta leave your number...
Looks like speaker wire.
I'd like to send you a little gift. Where to?
Thanks, email me. I don’t post my address publicly - too many crazies on YT.
@@PsionicAudio just sent off mail hope you find it in your flooded inbox/spam folder
Flat head is a screw type. It’s a standard screwdriver
very strong on the speaker end,,,,,, lay on lay for the 1/4" plug ===== makes no sense
Lay on lay?