I am new to air tanks. I got one from a yard sale for $5. You got me on the right track. I am going to get one of those quick connect things so I can fill the tank. I got a compressor but I get tired of lugging that thing around. You are going to make a expert out of me.
Excellent! I just unburied an air tank I've had on a shelf for 20+ years. Looks like brand new. Seems to be made out way heavier steel then what's available now. Was going to replace the dry rotted hose on it with a flex hose, but found this video and did your mods. It works great and filling it up is now easier that ever! Thanks!
Good way to blow your self up. Be careful. The tanks rust from inside out. All air tanks have a destroyed date to avoid the explosion that will definitely come one day .
Perfect for that! I have an on board compressor on my service truck that runs on 12V, but keeping the tank close by helps when the tire needing filled is not accessible with the truck. Cheers Samuel! Zip~
Based on our prior emails, My portable tank has been modified to boost the airflow from my CH compressor to oprate the HF portable sand blaster. I added a CH air chuck to the end of a coiled hose. the model, I used has a built in pressure gauge, which retais the last reading ntil you press the release button. :)
No. The size of the bung for an expansion tank to bead tires needs to be at least an inch and a half wide. With this air tank and most others, the bung is usually only 1/2" or smaller. Not enough air will be able to escape quickly enough for it to work. Zip~
@@chriscroteau4626 I may have misunderstood Chris. Do you mean just to get more volume of air out of your current set up? If so, the standard size is fine for that. I do this very thing with a Ingersol Rand Compressor and a 26 gallon Harbor Freight special with a "T" to connect them both. I only run the Ingersol Rand and I've got enough volume that it doesn't kick on very often. I hope this helps! Zip~
Sorry pretty new to all this myself. I have a HF’s 4gal Fortress compressor with 1.5hp 200psi. 4.0scfm@90psi. It’s been great for nailers and a couple other smaller tools. A few of the tools I have aren’t recommended for 1-6 gal compressors. So I was wondering if I got one of the HF 11gal air tanks and removed the shut off valve from it and connected in a T with a larger shut off valve on one side connecting to a regulator and air line and the other side connected to the compressor. I have no clue what I’m doing. Lol. But within the last six eight months I’ve gotten back into some woodworking and build myself a shop in my basement, ran air for my nailers and all that but would like to also use it to work on my vehicles if the occasion arises. Am I headed in the right direction or am I lost? Lol thanks for your time.
I'm on my second HF air tank, on both the red plastic on the shut-off started slipping , got a new manifold from auto parts with red metal on the valve !
I've done away with the valve since shooting this video. I don't remember if I mentioned...this was a HF return because the tire chuck leaked badly. So I picked it up for like $20 and converted it. It served me well through the years until the infamous plastic shut off finally shut off for its last time. I now have a ball valve on there and it works great. Same tank, and since I use it solely for airing up tires, I keep the inside of the tank coated with a little oil to prolong its life. I do hope to get one of their aluminum tanks in the future as these are HEAVY to lug around. Cheers Nick! Zip~
I pulled the valve off of my tanks. and replaced it with a 3 way fitting. I put 2 female quick connects in and a gauge. Then I connect them together with short hoses. I just found a big propane tank, That will be part of the air system once I figure out how to get the top valve off
I'm not so sure about "any" tank. I read on the Internets where some tanks are not NTP but somewhere in between 1/4" and 1/2", (guess where they are made). What I did was to cut off the tire inflator chuck and put a quick-connect on the end of the tank hose. I just wish these tanks had a drain valve. How much extra would that cost?
+Pro1er I agree there. I turn my tanks up side down once in a while to get any collected moisture drained out. They put a 5 year life on the tanks, saying you should replace them after that period of time, so my guess is, they're designed to fail and don't want you to have the same tank for 20-30 years. Used to be that things were made to last a lifetime. Not any more. Cheers! Zip~
I've heard some manufactures have started putting expiration dates on the tanks, which I think is supposed to be 10 years, but with the junk they make overseas, who knows. The problem with turning the tank upsides down to drain it is that if you don't remove the hose, all of that curd in the tank ends up in the hose - then in your (whatever) is hooked up to the hose. I might buy an aluminum tank one day, but they are about three times the cost of the steel ones - ugh.
That is a good idea. I hate those red valve handles, had a few break over the years and then you have to use a pair of pliers to open and close it until you buy a new valve. I removed one of those valves with a 't' and fittings and a yellow handle apollow ball valve with gauge. It was a lot of stuff on top of the tank but your idea is better. Any ideas for when those plastic valves crack/break? Thanks.
Perfect info. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you
I am new to air tanks. I got one from a yard sale for $5. You got me on the right track. I am going to get one of those quick connect things so I can fill the tank. I got a compressor but I get tired of lugging that thing around. You are going to make a expert out of me.
Excellent! I just unburied an air tank I've had on a shelf for 20+ years. Looks like brand new. Seems to be made out way heavier steel then what's available now. Was going to replace the dry rotted hose on it with a flex hose, but found this video and did your mods. It works great and filling it up is now easier that ever! Thanks!
Glad this video helped you out Fire! Zip~
Good way to blow your self up. Be careful. The tanks rust from inside out. All air tanks have a destroyed date to avoid the explosion that will definitely come one day .
thanks for taking the time to make this video. . . . This will help me alot when im doing roadside assistance calls!
Perfect for that! I have an on board compressor on my service truck that runs on 12V, but keeping the tank close by helps when the tire needing filled is not accessible with the truck. Cheers Samuel! Zip~
Thanks for taking the time to share Zippo. Just what I was looking for.
Hello I have a question about changing the hose that originally comes on the portable tanks.
I'm considering adding a connector like you did and have a chuck with gauge on a short line to plug into the connector .
garo nick Exactly my set up.
Based on our prior emails, My portable tank has been modified to boost the airflow from my CH compressor to oprate the HF portable sand blaster. I added a CH air chuck to the end of a coiled hose. the model, I used has a built in pressure gauge, which retais the last reading ntil you press the release button. :)
Do you think it is possible to switch out the stock valve and replace with a T and a larger a ball-valve and use it as an expansion tank?
No. The size of the bung for an expansion tank to bead tires needs to be at least an inch and a half wide. With this air tank and most others, the bung is usually only 1/2" or smaller. Not enough air will be able to escape quickly enough for it to work. Zip~
Well ty for the info. Just trying to figure out a way to get myself more air without buying another air compressor
@@chriscroteau4626 I may have misunderstood Chris. Do you mean just to get more volume of air out of your current set up? If so, the standard size is fine for that. I do this very thing with a Ingersol Rand Compressor and a 26 gallon Harbor Freight special with a "T" to connect them both. I only run the Ingersol Rand and I've got enough volume that it doesn't kick on very often. I hope this helps! Zip~
Sorry pretty new to all this myself. I have a HF’s 4gal Fortress compressor with 1.5hp 200psi. 4.0scfm@90psi. It’s been great for nailers and a couple other smaller tools. A few of the tools I have aren’t recommended for 1-6 gal compressors. So I was wondering if I got one of the HF 11gal air tanks and removed the shut off valve from it and connected in a T with a larger shut off valve on one side connecting to a regulator and air line and the other side connected to the compressor. I have no clue what I’m doing. Lol. But within the last six eight months I’ve gotten back into some woodworking and build myself a shop in my basement, ran air for my nailers and all that but would like to also use it to work on my vehicles if the occasion arises. Am I headed in the right direction or am I lost? Lol thanks for your time.
Most have a crap shut off tha breaks, bigger problem
The craptacular red plastic never broke, but it stopped sealing, so I recently replaced the works with a ball valve. Cheers Vic! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga would be great to see that ball valve installed. thanks.!
I'm on my second HF air tank, on both the red plastic on the shut-off started slipping , got a new manifold from auto parts with red metal on the valve !
I've done away with the valve since shooting this video. I don't remember if I mentioned...this was a HF return because the tire chuck leaked badly. So I picked it up for like $20 and converted it. It served me well through the years until the infamous plastic shut off finally shut off for its last time. I now have a ball valve on there and it works great. Same tank, and since I use it solely for airing up tires, I keep the inside of the tank coated with a little oil to prolong its life. I do hope to get one of their aluminum tanks in the future as these are HEAVY to lug around. Cheers Nick! Zip~
I pulled the valve off of my tanks. and replaced it with a 3 way fitting. I put 2 female quick connects in and a gauge. Then I connect them together with short hoses. I just found a big propane tank, That will be part of the air system once I figure out how to get the top valve off
how long will the tank hold air, disconnected from any air source? Weeks, months? What I am asking is will the pressure bleed off over time?
Month after month Ratone. In the years I've owned the tank after the conversion it's always ready at a moments notice. Cheers!! Zip~
Good advice
I'm not so sure about "any" tank. I read on the Internets where some tanks are not NTP but somewhere in between 1/4" and 1/2", (guess where they are made). What I did was to cut off the tire inflator chuck and put a quick-connect on the end of the tank hose. I just wish these tanks had a drain valve. How much extra would that cost?
+Pro1er I agree there. I turn my tanks up side down once in a while to get any collected moisture drained out. They put a 5 year life on the tanks, saying you should replace them after that period of time, so my guess is, they're designed to fail and don't want you to have the same tank for 20-30 years. Used to be that things were made to last a lifetime. Not any more. Cheers! Zip~
I've heard some manufactures have started putting expiration dates on the tanks, which I think is supposed to be 10 years, but with the junk they make overseas, who knows.
The problem with turning the tank upsides down to drain it is that if you don't remove the hose, all of that curd in the tank ends up in the hose - then in your (whatever) is hooked up to the hose.
I might buy an aluminum tank one day, but they are about three times the cost of the steel ones - ugh.
Yeah, I've looked at the aluminum tanks many times my self but as of yet, I haven't wanted one or needed one bad enough to pay the price.
is that the stock psi gauge that came on the tank.. & is it accurate? Thanks in advance
The stock gauge was off by a few psi so I replaced it with a better one. Zip~
is it easier to just calibrate it?
These cheaper gauges aren't calibration friendly. Besides, what you would pay for the calibration service, you could buy 4 new gauges. Zip~
oh haha well then
That is a good idea. I hate those red valve handles, had a few break over the years and then you have to use a pair of pliers to open and close it until you buy a new valve. I removed one of those valves with a 't' and fittings and a yellow handle apollow ball valve with gauge. It was a lot of stuff on top of the tank but your idea is better. Any ideas for when those plastic valves crack/break? Thanks.