Spotlight: Scarpa - Boostic
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Nathan Hoette, the font of all climbing shoe knowledge, runs us through the new and improved Scarpa Boostic; a supportive shoe with an asymmetrical and downturned shape, designed for technical face climbing.
"This fucker's on his fifth resole! It's too thick"
Nathan is awesome
Definitely prefer this level of detail over the standard trade show interviews!
more videos like this, please! Nathan is brilliant.
Damn I need this type of vid for every shoes on the market ! Love your content greetings from France !
Keep an eye on our channel, Adrien! We cover all of the major brands. Thanks for the feedback.
I have size 43 for street shoe and bought boostic size 42.5 and it is fantastic!! When the break in they'll be perfect. Yes the shoe is stiff and very agressive, but man it eats those tiny footholds like it's nothing! I am really amazed and they do everything that Nathan is promising. And i must mention just how good the heel is, no slipping, no moving inside, soft and sticky, nothing to complain here. Fitting reminds me of my vapor v, but ofcourse stiffer and much more agressive. I tried them on many different styles of climbing and they are awesome, but they really do shine on micro footholds and you can really trust them to hold on.
I always went super soft super aggressive and would often struggle with foot fatigue on a lot of out door sport routes but just excepted that as the price for performance but after 3 years off climbing and 3 stone gained on my return I needed a more supportive shoe since all my old pairs wouldn’t even reach my heel anymore.
I’ve been blown away by the the boostics, i never realised what I was missing by just always going for the latest super soft super cool looking try hard performance shoe. I think this will be my go to outdoor shoe from now on and just keep the dragos, furias etc for indoors although my favourite ever shoe was the Instinct VSR, I’ll probably get them again for overhanging outdoors.
The Boostic/Instinct VSR combo is a really good all-rounder isn’t it - Boostic for when you need the support, then Instinct VSR for when you need a little less.
@@ukclimbingofficial Yep VSR’s are phenomenal, can’t wait to buy my next pair but still got another 2 stone to loose before I can get back on the overhanging stuff 😭
Great review!
Nathan is a rad dude
Damn, I want to try these shoes out! But New chimera in black, and blue looks more appealing, and that quantic wants to see whats those are about!
excellent video, thank you!
a little wieder in the front i would find exceptional, low(er) volume also. Heel also. This should fit me very very well! :)
Softer upper material makes me a little worried: because i don't like this an the new Vapor V!
There nathan said to counter the softer upper, the midsole has to be stiffened up to get similar characteristics.
Using the new Vapor Vs i finsd them unsensitive where i stand on and i don't have that secure feeling around my foot.
I mean the difference between soft upper and soft/sensitivity stepping on holds. They should be similar.
Nice and soft feel but no sensitivity (in comparison!) to the big toe on the hold.
When indoor Bouldering, i slipped of holds like i never ever did before. Sure, it is XS Edge rubber and not XS grip 2 rubber, but i feel everything except the big toe on the hold.
If i read what i have written by now, i would suggest i should take a smaller size because they are too floppy. Or my feet are too low volume for the shoe.
I use them 1,5 EU sizes smaller than my real foot size and I'm far from a higher grade climber.
Maybe I get them resoled with XS Grip 2 rubber? But i fear that when it is time for a resole, the shoe will have stretched by then and then adding a softer outsole would make it too soft. Or too big for its softness. Then it would only be good as an indoor bouldering smearing, volume shoe. The heel is too big for my small heel anyway. Hmmm, i honestly don't know what to do!
I have a resoled Boostic and have more preasssure on the tip of the toe, even in caves when indoor Bouldering. I don't use the Boostics outside any more, because i don't have that face climbing routes where these little positive holds are key near my area. And routes where these holds are, often have 1-2 critical smears - no place for a stiff Boostic.
But I'm interested in the new one anyway! :) Also the new Booster I didn't have on my feet. Maybe i should try to get my feet in them in 2021.
Right now i use the old, orange/silver Vapor V (1. model) with XS Grip 2 rubber for Sportclimbing outside and so far so good. Supportive for my heavy ass, quite low volume, toes pretty flat, which is possible because they are stiff, medium amount of downturn in genereal and a bit on the toes, but with the superb soft (but not too soft) XS Grip 2 rubber.
Sooooo sounds like I can wear the boostic in the same size I wear a booster.
per usual scarpa fucked up and went softer story of the brand. yep it looks cooler, climbs shit.
So true, what is going on with Scarpa. Bring stiff soles back to the range.
How to ruin a shoe
It’s a tricky one. It certainly wasn’t to my tastes, as I’d have preferred a refinement that was a little more in keeping with the original (ie something that’s super supportive); however, I can see that the direction they decided to go in was better for certain user groups such as boulderers, who want a bit more of a blend of support and sensitivity.
@@ukclimbingofficial I just wish they’d released it as a different model variation while still producing the older one.. So many boostickers got disappointed from this model