Angus's idea of rolling it to get access to the bottom end is big-brain strategy. I say this man has earned the title of "Head of Innovation for Increasing Repair Productivity During Every Revival Project", or HIIRPDERP for short.
I think these are the best types of revivals - something that anyone could obtain and do themselves on a vehicle that isn't too wildly hard to find. I love the old rare automobiles but there's just something about bringing back a modernish car to use as a reliable daily.
I know of the recall about the hitch. I was told by the dealership mechanic that if the hitch wasn't factory installed if you were rear-ended it could rupture the fuel tank.
@JYD, just wanna say thankyou, i had to put down my 14 Y.O labradour the other day, her favorite show was junkyard digs, we used to leave it playing on the TV for her when we went out, keep saving cars and beeing legends, appreciate it 🤘🤠👍
I had a 99 grand Cherokee with the 4 liter while going thru college. Bought it for 500 bucks, rebuilt all the suspension in the front due to death wobble and did everything you guys did. I loved that jeep. It was rock solid. It had the knocking sound too. It was lifters and it went away when it warmed up. That jeep gave me no issues but the capilers loved checking on fire
glad to have come across this video as i have just purchased my very first jeep [1998 jeep grand cherokee laredo] from a friend of mine for $250. i've started reviving it myself and this video is going to help me make alot of progress on my own jeep. thank you for the content Kevin.
They might have saved he fuel pump by cleaning the screen and trying again, at least if they could hear it; but it might not have been reliable enough for a commuter.
They should have tried stomping hard and fast on the brakes and see if they could do any better with the old master cylinder, though it probably needed to be replaced anyway for safety, they might have gotten to the old seals to expand with high pressure and shock. Hitting the brake pedal with a mallet might have worked too.
I have had a few Jeep Cherokees, all with the 4.0 HO inline 6 cylinder engine. I've had both standard and automatic transmissions and both 2 and 4wd. They are truly awesome engines that perform way above their weight class as far as power. My last one, a 5 speed standard 4wd 1998 model with a 3 inch lift, 31×10×15 tires averaged 22 miles per gallon for the entire 400k miles I drove it. It finally succumbed to a cracked piston when I overheated it severely on my way to work one morning. They are prone to cracking the cylinder head on the #1 cylinder exhaust port when ran low on coolant and then water/coolant is added while still hot. Body wise, the doors are essentially glued on and the body that the hinge is glued to is subject to failure, it will tear and the door can fall off.
My parents just got rid of their 1998 XJ 2WD with 390k still running. Sold it locally and last I heard it was still being driven. They really are legendary little engines.
It's a good engine because 90's Chrysler didn't design it..it's an AMC engine, built by AMC and ownership passed over to Chrysler in 87.Chrysler hasn't made an engine worth a damn since the end of the 318/360 V8 ended production 20 years ago.
4.0's almost always sound like they're dragging log chains but they keep going. They aren't the most powerful engine on the planet but in my experience they're pretty dependable. My first one had 201k on it when I traded it in. (one of my biggest mistakes ever) No idea how many miles are on my current one. It was replaced at some point.
Fixed up a 4.0L ZJ back in 2015 or so. Thing had 260,000+ miles on the clock, and while it needed plenty of work, the (factory original) engine was flawless, and still runs good to this day. Definitely didn't accelerate like a supercar, but that Jeep never met a trailer or hill that that 4.0L couldn't handle.
If you ever watch the neutral drop guys, they try to destroy Jeeps with the 4.0L inline 6, and one video I watched stuntman just gave up. Had no oil, running on five cylinders (blew one piston through the oil pan), it was still running and kept starting.
Man, Kevin, I love your channel so much. Performance cars, random motors, junkers, weird shit like the golf cart of doom, british sports cars, doesn't matter...you guys have such a great formula.
Congratulations on a great channel Kevin, nice to see the old abandoned vehicles coming back to life again. Thanks for your service to your country, well done. All the best for future success from down here in Christchurch NZ. PS I was amazed at the "interesting" construction of your limousine and hope you and friends can go through it and make it safe as it looks like a fun vehicle otherwise. A big thanks to Mook too as she makes every video great with her smile and laughter.
I really like these ZJ Grand Cherokees - especially the later '96 - '98 models. Solid rigs, easy to work on, and parts are super easy to find whether you're a junkyard diver or just need some quick parts from the store. Or, if you want to build one up, you have all kinds of options that pretty much just bolt in since it was already factory-designed with a good four-link suspension and space for a variety of engines. I fixed one of these up for my Mom years ago that was pretty much this same spec; Laredo 4.0L with the 242 T-case (best T-case option for these in my opinion). She's real tough on cars, and got tired of paying out $700+ for every little bump or ding that she had with her new 2nd-gen Honda CR-V. I found one with about 260,000 miles on it, and spent a few months getting everything fixed up. I also added skid plates (like $5 each from the junkyard plus some wire brushing & paint) and high-end floor/cargo mats, because as I said, she tends to beat on cars. Also put in low-amp LEDs for the interior and an automatic headlight switch, because she had a tendency to leave lights on and kill the battery. Thing's a champ; she's still dailying it to this day, and anytime there's a minor knock or a broken light, it's cheap and easy to fix. Thing was like a Terminator in the snow too, especially with good tires.
As a Jeep owner and garage mechanic, I was absolutely over the moon to see you work on a vehicle that I have experience with. Of course, a whole lot of that involved some frustrated nodding and not a little bit of burying my head in my hands, squinting out between my fingers. I love my Jeep, but any pain you had with this vehicle, I completely feel.
Man seeing this Jeep takes me back to when I had my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo in the same red color with a grey cloth interior as my first car, handed down from my grandfather who drove it daily for over 20 years before passing away. I will always miss that car and my Grandfather;(
You should be thankful that my second ex-wife never got her mitts on that Jeep (or any other vehicle you own). She managed to completely trash, without wrecking, a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Loredo and later a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Loredo. Both Jeeps had the 4.0L engine, were 4X4s, and were in excellent running condition until she came along. But then she also managed to send a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder (V-6, 4X4, manual transmission) to the crusher without much effort. Wife #3, and The Love of My Life, can drive the hell out of our 2014 RAM Quad Cab, Hemi powered, 4X4 pickup or my beater 2005 Chevy Colorado Quad Cab LS, five cylinder powered, Z71 4X4 pickup and not put a scratch or dent in either of them. She also has no problem (as long as has something to stand on so she can reach the engine bay) checking fluid levels....Unlike #2 who apparently thinks engines and transmissions don't need lubricant/fluid and coolant lasts forever.
Chrysler cheaped out on rotors for some reason, always warped. Even in the 3/4 ton 4x4's new rotors, broken in, then some hard applications-Warp Speed.
I'm driving an old XJ I bought for parts here in Australia. I've put 15,000k on it so far and it's great. The old 4.0 has 420,000k on it and still runs like a dream.
Great video! A few years ago I got a ZJ with a blown Dana35 for less than a thousand bucks. Got another 35 out of a junkyard and she ran flawlessly until I sold it years later for more than twice what I had into it. Cash for clunkers killed most the remaining ZJs off but it meant I had LOTS of parts to pick from.
The great thing about JYD and its characters, is that its the perfect mix of entertainment to education, and there are very many thing i have learned about revivals, and have actually revived a chevy c10 with little to no effort.
Well Kevin, the amount of wear on the rod side of those bearings is definitely enough to get rod knock. My guess is that there was some kind of oil additive like STP to thicken the oil and sticky it up just enough to quiet the clatter in both the top and bottom ends. The plastigage only referenced the cap clearance and if you would have checked the rod side it probably wouldn't have registered at all. The roll-in was a good call.👌 The mains would have been a good idea as well, but taking the chance of stressing that rear main seal, definitely not worth the risk.👍 Good luck Angus...🤙
Yeah, those 2 piece rear mains are quite a common thing to fail on the 4.0L even from factory. The only plus side to having the 2 piece rear main is they can be replaced without having to remove the transmission.
At 43:51 you can see him adding 10W-40 (more viscous). Should he be adding that in a cold climate? Isn't the stock oil 10W-30? I've heard of adding 5W-30 for cold weather...
@@BFPolarBear No, those older engines have a lot more clearance overall throughout the engine and transmission. The 5 weight would allow piston scuffing and bearing galling over time. Even on the new engines I wouldn't recommend anything less than 10 weight. I know manufacturers recommend it, but as a mechanic for 40 years I don't. Many repair shops have mentioned the unusual internal engine wear related to the thinner viscosity oils. I personally run 20w50 in my Victor motorcycle and it runs great because as the temperatures warm up the engine stays smooth and quite. I live in Hawaii, at 5,000 ft elevation and the morning temperature gets down to around 38F/2C. The 20 weight is plenty thin for cold starts. If the temperatures are in the negative range the definitely use use the 10w series for less strain on the oil pump, the thicker the oil the better cushion film and friction protection. When I first saw the 0&5 weight viscosity oils I thought they were joking, but it seems like the new manufactures obselesence. In other words, designed to fail. That 4.0 would actually benefit greatly from running 20w50, but it might be a bit thick for the colder temperatures.
@@BFPolarBear Yes, the oil that these motors come with and are supposed to use normally is 10W-30 and for cold weather climates they recommend using 5W-30. This info for different viscosity oil than the normal 10W-30 is not something that can be found in the user's manual for this body style Grand Cherokee as far as I have seen with mine but it can be found in the factory service information for them if you are really looking for it.
@@gwbuilder5779 Many modern small(for the USA) displacement japanese car engines now require 0W-16 oil. Considering they look like a work of art on the inside, with very beautifully designed and machined parts I have no doubt they will live long and problem free lives. They simply maxed out friction and pumping loss reduction, and work with very very small tolerances. Oils(and engines) have come a long way in the last 30-40 years, and engineers know what they are doing.
I'm pretty sure when you see copper, that's a Telltale sign of bearings that are shot! I think you're going to be fine because you caught it in time. I would run a slightly heavier viscosity of oil in the future. It's so cool having a shop and the capability of going through a vehicle and replacing all the consumables. If Angus drives that vehicle easy it should last him a long time.
The manual in the US calls for 10W30 and he threw in 10W40. Most guys prefer the latter. The manual in the rest of the world has a temperature chart and depending on the ambient temp, you can run 15W40. I run T4 Rotella 15W40 in mine.
If anything I would actually be running a thinner oil since Angus is in MN and it gets quite cold over the winter here. In mine that I daily, I run 5W-30 with a zinc additive. These motors have a flat tappet cam and need that extra anti-wear additive so both the camshaft and lifters don't wear down as fast plus it will prolong the life of the rest of the moving parts in the engine.
@@TheSupermattman99 most folks dont understand the first number W is the cold viscosity and the second is the hot viscosity. 5w40 would be a good choice for a high mileage cold weather motor where 5w30 might be a bit lacking, but 10w anything would shorten its life.
Well, obviously, you had to have had a bad bearing somewhere in there. The good side is, it's nice and quiet now. Something I've never had all the good luck with. It's always been an out of round crank, and meant that I had to either tear it all down or buy another motor!! Good job Kev!!!
Ahhhh.....been looking forward to a new video from you guys and this one did NOT disappoint. Great project and pretty great results! Keep us all posted on what needs to be done to this next. A new front end?? Engine knock?? Ohh....what a tease...let's see more of this....please.
That's right on the hitch - NHTSA claimed most years of the '90s Grand Cherokee and '00s Liberty had increased risk of fire if rear-ended at fairly low speeds, and Chrysler agreed to either install hitches on vehicles without them to better spread out the rear impact force so it didn't hit right into the tank, or inspect any aftermarket hitches to confirm whether they could do the job and replace them if they weren't good enough
I've got a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee it's a 5.2 I've owned it since it was new and it's still my daily driver, I love it as much as I did the day I brought it home
Mildy interesting fact from Angus's "whole seven yards or so" is that the expression "giving it the whole nine yards" originally refers to the length of a full machine gun belt
Back in WWII, nine yards of 50cal was fitted in 3 guns on each wing (3 yards in each gun) of a P51 Mustang. (If I am not mistaken) So if you were giving the enemy the 'Full Nine Yards' then that means you layed into them with every round you had. I think the term is still used in the military. I know my family uses the term frequently, and the last member of our family to serve was in WWII.
This video is so helpful. I have taken a semester of automotive brake and steering & suspension classes and this helps freshen me up in those skills! Thank you for all the long, hard work you have put into creating these videos!
I got the inspiration to fix up a 1996 jeep cherokee xj that was becoming a part of nature because of videos like yours. I'm now daily driving it. Keep it up man, your videos are awesome
Just hit 200k on our 95 Jeep GC, we bought it with 170k on it. Didn't do a whole lot of work on it just the crank shaft position sensor (randomly shutting off or not starting), spark plugs & wires, distributor, heater core, transmission lines, coolant flush. It's gotten us from California to Nevada a couple times and recently from California to Virginia. The 4.0 is a beast.
Love seeing Gene's Arnold Motor Supply hat, was my favorite parts store when I lived in the Cedar Rapids area. Love seeing my former state represented more and more on youtube.
I had two ZJs - 93 4.0 and a 98 5.9. 4.0 was great and never let me down. The 5.9 was amazing. Did a 242 swap and it was a bomb. I miss both of those. Now bombing around in a 2008 Diesel WK and it's still going strong.
most likely rockers or rod bearings. Pulled the pan on my powertech 4.0 and it has sloppy bearings. Still running strong thousands of miles later, but it's kinda noisy. No broken piston skirts and pistons are tight in the bore
242 was the best transfer case for these. The 249 Quadra-Trac was pitched as a higher-end, higher-tech option, but didn't give you as many settings to work with, and they tended to wear out and lock up the driveline. The 242s are versatile and pretty bulletproof.
while i always enjoy every video, Its nice to see you guys working on something different like that. My 01 Cherokee has the 4.0 with 200k, shes got that valve train noise but as long as you keep the oil clean and replaced every 3-5k its not an issue. The 4.0 is one of those engines that are very reliable as long as you do basic maintenance, but if you don't keep up with it, it'll start spinning bearings, or develop piston slap. The oil galleys are small and if sludge starts building up in there, its all over, irreversible damage.
I legitimately very much want this. The first car I ever drove was a 95 Grand Cherokee, so they have a special place in my heart. Also, that thing can rock-crawl better than you’ll believe even after reading this comment :)
I had a 96 Grand Cherokee...that thing loved being offroad...somewhere under the layers of mud it was white LOL. 232k on mine when I sold it and only because the viscous coupler in the transfer case had failed so it was more like being stuck in part time 4WD than having a full time 4WD vehicle LOL....wish I knew about the transfer case swaps back then, would have loved to swapped in the 242 Selec-Trac transfer case into it. My 98 Grand Cherokee was going to turn into a mess sadly about a year into having it, the engine knock issues started, and then the final straw was the front pump seal in the transmission decided to no longer retain the fluid inside the transmission. Best snow/ice vehicles I've had I miss my Jeep.
I had a 98 ZJ Laredo. One of the best rigs I've ever had. It started having some electrical issues so I got rid of it. I still regret it and would love to get another. This brought back alot of great memories. Rain, sleet or snow. My ZJ got me through it all with no problems. Just rugged simple utility with enough comfort. They are great vehicles.
Lynyrd Skynyrd ! ? ! Hell YEAH Brother ! ! ! I saw them in 1974 at a rodeo arena in Lena , Mississippi. Right before their first album was released. I heard Free Bird on the radio and became a lifelong fan. Album, 8 Track, cassette, CD, DVD, and then Vinyl Album again. Hell Yeah Brother ! (“Pronounced Leh-nerd Skin-nerd.”)The sub title.
@@daytontressler6169 that's pretty cool, I have a 1992 jeep wrangler YJ 2.5L with over 260K miles, and I definitely had to do some minor and major repairs on it. But damn its a fun car to drive!
I always look forward to the weekly updates, you guys have built such a great channel. Forget all those scripted big budget fake cable shows, this is the real deal. Great work, keep it up!
love the classic grand cherokees, I had a 94 with the inline 6. Would have kept it, if it wasn't completely rotted out and the trans was slipping when going up hill.... And yes, the fuel pump going out is a thing, and yes you have to give it a good 5-10 seconds before turning over the engine, for the fuel pump to properly prime the system. I followed that mantra ever since we replaced the pump in mine.
I have a similar story except mine was bought used and still functioning. 600 bucks for a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Needed sensors, new front drive shaft, tires, brakes, fuel tank skid plate, and it's been my daily driver for the winter time and a trail rider by summer for a few years now. It was a hidden gem as it's got the 4.0L inline 6, but the 5 speed AT5 automatic transmission. Four-wheel drive was functioning all around. I love how simple it is, how easy it is to work on, and how cheap and available the parts are for it. I bought it figuring it would just be a beater with a heater, but now I want to keep putting money into it and make it into a 10-year or longer vehicle. Motor has more than a quarter of a million miles, and I just recently did a trip from northern Michigan to Eastern Pennsylvania and back with a oversized trailer, and it didn't even skip a beat. It ate its own camshaft before I even started the trip, but that was going bad even before I bought it. I'm honestly impressed, and I plan to rebuild the rocker panels, and get the whole undercarriage cleaned up and rhino lined. That front end noise could possibly be the front drive shaft. My Jeep came with the CV front shaft and it made a terrible noise when I first got it, found out the CV shaft bearings were bad. I think these Jeeps came with the u-joint front drive shaft, could just need some lube.
I absolutely LOVED my 5.2 ZJ grand Cherokee, seeing the thumbnail for this video made my day! I've got a 2nd gen explorer now with a blown trans and I miss the ZJ even more after seeing this 😂
I had a 5.2l zj too loved that jeep but my ex took it. I now have a 4.7l wj, it's nice but doesn't feel like it has the get up and go the zj had but then again I only paid $800 for it😁
Those I6 engines are almost bulletproof. With the rockers being that rusted i'm 99% sure there are holes in the floors too even if they are only pin holes. Awesome video guys! I really enjoyed it.
I just can't explain to ya how upset a guy gets when I ain't getting my jyd fix weekly . I know life is probably getting at ya like nobody's business but just figured I'd let ya know I can't wait to see some more of those barn car/truck videos. You guys are one of my top favorite channels to watch. Hope to see lots more here soon.
I had one of those jeeps given to me. same problem with the master cylinder. replaced it boom brakes were work. had to find a couple vacuum leaks as well. after doing a couple test runs with the transmission went in it. Jasper actually sent me a bad tranny. When I installed it and transmission fluid came pouring out of it from the main seal. Sent it back and got the new put in no problems. I added another transmission cooler just for piece of mind. I think the only other thing I had to do after that was replace a wheel hub. It had a sun roof that was leaking so the interior was pretty rough but was able to clean it up pretty good. Eventually I sold it to my buddies dad. Running strong with out 300k miles now. It technically is on it's 3rd transmission. That's the major downside with those model jeeps. Those transmissions are junk. Great video can't wait to see more jeep projects.
This was perfect. I just bought a 95 grand Cherokee with 220000 miles for $400 it’s been sitting for about 6 years. Hopefully it goes as smoothly as this did
Kev, Mook seemed she had had enough of that cold standing in your field 🤣. She looked like, alright can we get this over with already! Your right, it was a change of pace for you and the fellas not doing the old and crusty again. Don’t make it a habit. Love your old and crusty videos Kevin!!! Glad it all worked out in the end. 👍
Kevin with the 4.0 they are prone to "piston slap" this is a normal occurrence and won't hurt drivability. My 2nd 98 ZJ has had lifter knock for a year
I have bought my 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Used in 1992, 4 wheel drive automatic with a 4.0 motor I put 210,000 miles on it. never had a wrench on it, except to replace the AC Compressor. Standard maintenance belts, hoses, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, points and condenser. Changed all fluids over time based on mileage. Changed oil every (3) thousand miles used Castrol oil 20 -50 wt. with Fram oil filters. Still driving it, doesn't use oil, but leaks oil need to have the seals replaced. Been a really great vehicle. I don't use it much any more will probably sell it.
I love it how this jeep is brought back to life with cheap and easy fixes, because it's a nice looking car that only needs a few rocker panels as far i can tell from this video.
Them 4.0 are known to have a “knock” at idle. I’ve seen a few have loose wrist pins and the pistons are slapping back and forth in the cylinder, so that might be something to look at as well.
the older 4.0's or just the powertech's? I know the powertech 4.0 in our 99 knocked louder than my 7.3 idi. Poured a couple quarts of used diesel oil in her and she got real quiet lol. They were also known to break skirts, but I dropped the pan (NOT FUN) and verified all pistons were fine.
@@frostbite1991 the ones I saw it on were 96 or older with 225k plus miles on them that weren’t well taken care over. I’ve always ran rottela t6 in them and find that helps a lot with the overall oil pressure so rod #6 gets decent oil pressure at idle. But if you live up north it can cause some dry starts if it really cold.
The knock you are talking about, is actually lifter slap. Its common in inline engines. I had a 99 WJ, with almost 200,000 miles on it. I dumped a stupid amount of money into it, and got peanuts when I sold it and bought a Chevy Trailblazer with a 4.2L inline 6, and over 200,000 miles on it with more horsepower/torque and better fuel mileage.
Yep. I had a '06 Liberty. Got a free Mopar hitch and installation. Boxed in the tank as there was nothing between the bumper and the tank. Sold that jeep just before the engine was scheduled for implosion.
I've put rod and main bearings in a motor with it still in the vehicle (77 F250, 460 v8). It's not the easiest or best practice, but when regular maintenance and high detergent oil causes the previous owner's negligence to shoot crud through the whole oiling system, plug the filter (opening the bypass) and then wipe all the bearings, it's a helluva lot easier to do than pulling the motor and rebuilding. The truck is still running great a decade later, though it hasn't had that many miles on it that time. It still puts the oil pressure gauge on the high side of Normal! For the mains, the trick is to loosen up all the main caps a bit at the same time - then you can take them off one at a time, and use the bottom bearing to spin the top one out of position. Work the new one back in with a plastic body filler spreader (something soft & plastic - a credit card would also work). If you're doing it, you can also replace a two piece rear main seal at the same time to save some future headache!
Glad to see you actually taking the Jeep off road for its maiden voyage and not a pavement princess! Hopefully replacing those bearings fixed that rod knock, it appears it did. Its never good to hear engine clatter after an oil change which is why replacing the oil regularly is a must!
I've had 3 of these Jeeps. If I remember correctly, I think I read somewhere that the oil pressure sensor is fake. It's a switching sensor instead of a variable sensor, so if you have enough pressure to trigger it the gauge will show about 40 regardless.
Lol same with 90s ford trucks, my friends 95' F150 and my 97' Ranger both have that type of sensor. Even if there's like 10psi of oil pressure, the gauge will just sit smack in the middle. 🤷♂️ also funny enough the wheels that were on this jeep were Ranger wheels, same bolt pattern 5x4.5 and relitivly the same offsets between 90's factory Jeep (Cherokee/Grand Cherokee/Wrangler) and Ford (Ranger/Explorer) wheels
@@leakyjeep5.9 it does? I haven't seen one on the few 96s that I have worked on. Then again, there have been times where I have been wrong about something that I know a decent amount about. I knew for sure the 97-98 doesn't have an external fuel filter and the 93-95 did but the 96 year for the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee was kind of a weird crossover between the 93-95 and 97-98 years.
@@leakyjeep5.9 So looked at the service information for 96 ZJ and it says that it does have a fuel filter at the front of the fuel tank, I guess I must not have noticed it.
The GOAT video..loved it! My bet would be a stuck lifter and your boost in oil pressure from new rod bearings unstuck it. You could hear the miss of a cylinder. Great job.
Hey just a tip for all of you, only grease the inside of the bearings. Absolutely do not grease the outside that touches either the piston rod or the cap. You will absolutely spin a bearing if you do. Don’t ask me how I know
I was thinking the same thing, but it might be enough to start with the passenger side on each pair since the fronts are on one chamber, and the rears are on another. My old brake guy reminded me that they are sometimes diagonal on cars newer than mine, though.
Man, I’ve had like 5 of these ranging anywhere between ZJ (93-98) to WJ (99-04) and it’s a love/hate relationship, when they work, they are great, love them, when they don’t, their horrible, my current one is a 96 5.2 limited, red on tan, that’s going to be getting an NP 242 t-case swap, trussed rear end with an Aussie locker, Eaton e-locker in the front, 7” IRO 4 link long arm lift kit, double cardan drive shaft, 4.56 gears, bucket seats with 5 point harnesses, etc. I gotta say, after looking at these for years, you have an interesting build, body color cladding, leather seats, with a chrome grille, with a Laredo package, usually the body color cladding and leather seats were reserved for limited packages
I love how I watched you guys talk about Plasti-Gauge and engine stuff on the 2nd of Feb And then I learn about it in class on like the 15th. Thanks for helping me get a diploma.
Angus will enjoy driving that once all the problems are worked out, I've got 3 of them and they are great vehicles. Also the VIC(Vehicle Information Center) which is located down by the center console in front of the shifter, and the headlight switch are prone to having issues due to poor soldering joints. If the dash lights start to flicker or change brightness when you have the headlights on there is a solder joint in there somewhere that you can re-solder and fix it. The transfer case not wanting to go back into 2wd is also a relatively common thing on these, MVF(Mountain Vista Fabrication) makes a fix for it that seems to work pretty well. They also make a fix for those lousy cupholders that just slides over top the center console and sticks into place. I would also recommend running 5W-30 oil since he is in in a colder climate along with some zinc oil additive because it has a flat tappet cam and they will wear out relatively quick. If he ever has any questions on it I'm glad to help as I have basically rebuilt the entire driveline in one. I also have a spare 4.0L if you are still wanting to put a 4.0L in your one AMC Eagle that blew the motor.
I used to have one of these, I miss it dearly. One of the best vehicles I will ever have. First car, had it for 5 years, had all the bells and whistles.
The black eye makeup looks good on ya Kev! Always a fun time in the junkyard yard digs garage! The paint looks quite nice for it sitting so long! I had a 78 jeep cj7, it looked nice but was a money pit and had everything wrong with it, was glad to see it go!!
Had a 200k 4.0l once. Had to put about a quart of oil every month or so. Warmed it up every morning in wisconsin winters by holding her to the floor. Good motor
Angus's idea of rolling it to get access to the bottom end is big-brain strategy. I say this man has earned the title of "Head of Innovation for Increasing Repair Productivity During Every Revival Project", or HIIRPDERP for short.
Highly underrated comment
this is amazing
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣💯🌽
@@JunkyardDigs absolutely
That's how you drop the transmission/transfer case on ww2 Jeeps
About 400 separate accounts of guys doing it too
I don't watch just ANY 1+ hour long video, but when Junkyard Digs puts one up I know it'll be time well spent. Nice work everyone!
I think these are the best types of revivals - something that anyone could obtain and do themselves on a vehicle that isn't too wildly hard to find. I love the old rare automobiles but there's just something about bringing back a modernish car to use as a reliable daily.
Well they aren't making any more of them. 🙂
O’ Rileys should get an award for best supporting character in this channel
ZJs are champs! I've had a 97 4.0 and have a 98 5.9. After a few oil leak repairs, and never ending door lock actuator failures, they're great cars.
door lock actuators hit me close to home. some of mine unlock, but don’t lock. so i always have to check and make sure they are locked.
I know of the recall about the hitch. I was told by the dealership mechanic that if the hitch wasn't factory installed if you were rear-ended it could rupture the fuel tank.
Hitch was a tsb issue due to the tank being exposed and prone to rupture from a rear impact.
Yup. Factory hitch? Pass. Aftermarket hitch too close to the tank? Fail. No hitch? Fail. Fix: Install hitch. Unless the frame is too rusty.
Hmmm, where did I hear that before? Maybe FORD should have tried that on the Pinto...lol
@@stevencartlidge6574 and chevy with the Malibu in the 70/80s. I think there's a few other cars
So its the offroad Pinto?
@JYD, just wanna say thankyou, i had to put down my 14 Y.O labradour the other day, her favorite show was junkyard digs, we used to leave it playing on the TV for her when we went out, keep saving cars and beeing legends, appreciate it 🤘🤠👍
I love it that you are good enough friends to hook Angus up, I like that dude. Great videos and channel-one of the best really.
I had a 99 grand Cherokee with the 4 liter while going thru college. Bought it for 500 bucks, rebuilt all the suspension in the front due to death wobble and did everything you guys did. I loved that jeep. It was rock solid. It had the knocking sound too. It was lifters and it went away when it warmed up. That jeep gave me no issues but the capilers loved checking on fire
glad to have come across this video as i have just purchased my very first jeep [1998 jeep grand cherokee laredo] from a friend of mine for $250. i've started reviving it myself and this video is going to help me make alot of progress on my own jeep. thank you for the content Kevin.
It is a good day when Junkyard Digs posts a new video. I can tell this will be a good one
wish he had time to post more often :/ Still happy tho :)
Yeah Man!
They might have saved he fuel pump by cleaning the screen and trying again, at least if they could hear it; but it might not have been reliable enough for a commuter.
They should have tried stomping hard and fast on the brakes and see if they could do any better with the old master cylinder, though it probably needed to be replaced anyway for safety, they might have gotten to the old seals to expand with high pressure and shock. Hitting the brake pedal with a mallet might have worked too.
Every time I see them wash I want to remind all; while there, be sure to spray wax the underside to prevent rust.
“Hitches can’t get enough of me”, that’s pure comedic gold there, Jerry🤣
I have had a few Jeep Cherokees, all with the 4.0 HO inline 6 cylinder engine. I've had both standard and automatic transmissions and both 2 and 4wd. They are truly awesome engines that perform way above their weight class as far as power. My last one, a 5 speed standard 4wd 1998 model with a 3 inch lift, 31×10×15 tires averaged 22 miles per gallon for the entire 400k miles I drove it. It finally succumbed to a cracked piston when I overheated it severely on my way to work one morning. They are prone to cracking the cylinder head on the #1 cylinder exhaust port when ran low on coolant and then water/coolant is added while still hot. Body wise, the doors are essentially glued on and the body that the hinge is glued to is subject to failure, it will tear and the door can fall off.
someone28 I got a notification of your comment but cannot see your comment.... very weird...
My parents just got rid of their 1998 XJ 2WD with 390k still running. Sold it locally and last I heard it was still being driven. They really are legendary little engines.
Holy crap thats a lot of miles!!
@@JunkyardDigs daily driver, 45 miles each way to work and another 100 averaged per weekend with hog hunting trips.
It's a good engine because 90's Chrysler didn't design it..it's an AMC engine, built by AMC and ownership passed over to Chrysler in 87.Chrysler hasn't made an engine worth a damn since the end of the 318/360 V8 ended production 20 years ago.
4.0's almost always sound like they're dragging log chains but they keep going. They aren't the most powerful engine on the planet but in my experience they're pretty dependable. My first one had 201k on it when I traded it in. (one of my biggest mistakes ever) No idea how many miles are on my current one. It was replaced at some point.
Fixed up a 4.0L ZJ back in 2015 or so. Thing had 260,000+ miles on the clock, and while it needed plenty of work, the (factory original) engine was flawless, and still runs good to this day. Definitely didn't accelerate like a supercar, but that Jeep never met a trailer or hill that that 4.0L couldn't handle.
My last 4.0 had 289 when I sold it
that knock sound is 100% normal for those motors. i have one with half a million on it and its been doin it since factory. i wouldnt worry about it
Good ol 4.0 lifter tick lol
If you ever watch the neutral drop guys, they try to destroy Jeeps with the 4.0L inline 6, and one video I watched stuntman just gave up. Had no oil, running on five cylinders (blew one piston through the oil pan), it was still running and kept starting.
@@TheNiteNinja19 She's a glowah!
Man, Kevin, I love your channel so much. Performance cars, random motors, junkers, weird shit like the golf cart of doom, british sports cars, doesn't matter...you guys have such a great formula.
Congratulations on a great channel Kevin, nice to see the old abandoned vehicles coming back to life again.
Thanks for your service to your country, well done.
All the best for future success from down here in Christchurch NZ.
PS
I was amazed at the "interesting" construction of your limousine and hope you and friends can go through it and make it safe as it looks like a fun vehicle otherwise.
A big thanks to Mook too as she makes every video great with her smile and laughter.
NZ 💪🏻💪🏻
I really like these ZJ Grand Cherokees - especially the later '96 - '98 models. Solid rigs, easy to work on, and parts are super easy to find whether you're a junkyard diver or just need some quick parts from the store. Or, if you want to build one up, you have all kinds of options that pretty much just bolt in since it was already factory-designed with a good four-link suspension and space for a variety of engines.
I fixed one of these up for my Mom years ago that was pretty much this same spec; Laredo 4.0L with the 242 T-case (best T-case option for these in my opinion). She's real tough on cars, and got tired of paying out $700+ for every little bump or ding that she had with her new 2nd-gen Honda CR-V. I found one with about 260,000 miles on it, and spent a few months getting everything fixed up. I also added skid plates (like $5 each from the junkyard plus some wire brushing & paint) and high-end floor/cargo mats, because as I said, she tends to beat on cars. Also put in low-amp LEDs for the interior and an automatic headlight switch, because she had a tendency to leave lights on and kill the battery. Thing's a champ; she's still dailying it to this day, and anytime there's a minor knock or a broken light, it's cheap and easy to fix. Thing was like a Terminator in the snow too, especially with good tires.
As a Jeep owner and garage mechanic, I was absolutely over the moon to see you work on a vehicle that I have experience with. Of course, a whole lot of that involved some frustrated nodding and not a little bit of burying my head in my hands, squinting out between my fingers. I love my Jeep, but any pain you had with this vehicle, I completely feel.
Yaaay! Always a treat when Angus shows up. That dynamic is just so great. Reminds me of wrenching on Humvees and 7 tons in the Marines.
I agree, I just feel bad that poor Angus has to live in Minneapolis. What did he ever do to deserve that?
Angus is just fantastic. Love it when he's in the vids. Looking forward to the next one. Cheers 🍻😁
Man seeing this Jeep takes me back to when I had my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo in the same red color with a grey cloth interior as my first car, handed down from my grandfather who drove it daily for over 20 years before passing away. I will always miss that car and my Grandfather;(
My parents had a green 95 Laredo with cloth seats as well. A great vehicle.
You should be thankful that my second ex-wife never got her mitts on that Jeep (or any other vehicle you own). She managed to completely trash, without wrecking, a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Loredo and later a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Loredo. Both Jeeps had the 4.0L engine, were 4X4s, and were in excellent running condition until she came along. But then she also managed to send a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder (V-6, 4X4, manual transmission) to the crusher without much effort. Wife #3, and The Love of My Life, can drive the hell out of our 2014 RAM Quad Cab, Hemi powered, 4X4 pickup or my beater 2005 Chevy Colorado Quad Cab LS, five cylinder powered, Z71 4X4 pickup and not put a scratch or dent in either of them. She also has no problem (as long as has something to stand on so she can reach the engine bay) checking fluid levels....Unlike #2 who apparently thinks engines and transmissions don't need lubricant/fluid and coolant lasts forever.
Chrysler cheaped out on rotors for some reason, always warped. Even in the 3/4 ton 4x4's new rotors, broken in, then some hard applications-Warp Speed.
I'm driving an old XJ I bought for parts here in Australia. I've put 15,000k on it so far and it's great. The old 4.0 has 420,000k on it and still runs like a dream.
Great video! A few years ago I got a ZJ with a blown Dana35 for less than a thousand bucks. Got another 35 out of a junkyard and she ran flawlessly until I sold it years later for more than twice what I had into it. Cash for clunkers killed most the remaining ZJs off but it meant I had LOTS of parts to pick from.
I still see ZJs on the road and in the junkyards pretty regularly. They're definitely not dead.
I like when the gang gets together to work on a project. Great episode!
The great thing about JYD and its characters, is that its the perfect mix of entertainment to education, and there are very many thing i have learned about revivals, and have actually revived a chevy c10 with little to no effort.
Thanks!
Again you guys hit a home run! Fun, educational and authentic :) My favorite channel.
Well Kevin, the amount of wear on the rod side of those bearings is definitely enough to get rod knock. My guess is that there was some kind of oil additive like STP to thicken the oil and sticky it up just enough to quiet the clatter in both the top and bottom ends. The plastigage only referenced the cap clearance and if you would have checked the rod side it probably wouldn't have registered at all. The roll-in was a good call.👌 The mains would have been a good idea as well, but taking the chance of stressing that rear main seal, definitely not worth the risk.👍
Good luck Angus...🤙
Yeah, those 2 piece rear mains are quite a common thing to fail on the 4.0L even from factory. The only plus side to having the 2 piece rear main is they can be replaced without having to remove the transmission.
At 43:51 you can see him adding 10W-40 (more viscous). Should he be adding that in a cold climate? Isn't the stock oil 10W-30? I've heard of adding 5W-30 for cold weather...
@@BFPolarBear No, those older engines have a lot more clearance overall throughout the engine and transmission. The 5 weight would allow piston scuffing and bearing galling over time. Even on the new engines I wouldn't recommend anything less than 10 weight. I know manufacturers recommend it, but as a mechanic for 40 years I don't. Many repair shops have mentioned the unusual internal engine wear related to the thinner viscosity oils. I personally run 20w50 in my Victor motorcycle and it runs great because as the temperatures warm up the engine stays smooth and quite.
I live in Hawaii, at 5,000 ft elevation and the morning temperature gets down to around 38F/2C. The 20 weight is plenty thin for cold starts. If the temperatures are in the negative range the definitely use use the 10w series for less strain on the oil pump, the thicker the oil the better cushion film and friction protection.
When I first saw the 0&5 weight viscosity oils I thought they were joking, but it seems like the new manufactures obselesence. In other words, designed to fail.
That 4.0 would actually benefit greatly from running 20w50, but it might be a bit thick for the colder temperatures.
@@BFPolarBear Yes, the oil that these motors come with and are supposed to use normally is 10W-30 and for cold weather climates they recommend using 5W-30. This info for different viscosity oil than the normal 10W-30 is not something that can be found in the user's manual for this body style Grand Cherokee as far as I have seen with mine but it can be found in the factory service information for them if you are really looking for it.
@@gwbuilder5779 Many modern small(for the USA) displacement japanese car engines now require 0W-16 oil. Considering they look like a work of art on the inside, with very beautifully designed and machined parts I have no doubt they will live long and problem free lives. They simply maxed out friction and pumping loss reduction, and work with very very small tolerances. Oils(and engines) have come a long way in the last 30-40 years, and engineers know what they are doing.
I'm pretty sure when you see copper, that's a Telltale sign of bearings that are shot! I think you're going to be fine because you caught it in time. I would run a slightly heavier viscosity of oil in the future. It's so cool having a shop and the capability of going through a vehicle and replacing all the consumables. If Angus drives that vehicle easy it should last him a long time.
The manual in the US calls for 10W30 and he threw in 10W40. Most guys prefer the latter.
The manual in the rest of the world has a temperature chart and depending on the ambient temp, you can run 15W40. I run T4 Rotella 15W40 in mine.
Bearings are an alloy in most mopars
@@goclunker every engine.
If anything I would actually be running a thinner oil since Angus is in MN and it gets quite cold over the winter here. In mine that I daily, I run 5W-30 with a zinc additive. These motors have a flat tappet cam and need that extra anti-wear additive so both the camshaft and lifters don't wear down as fast plus it will prolong the life of the rest of the moving parts in the engine.
@@TheSupermattman99 most folks dont understand the first number W is the cold viscosity and the second is the hot viscosity. 5w40 would be a good choice for a high mileage cold weather motor where 5w30 might be a bit lacking, but 10w anything would shorten its life.
I wonder if this man has ever owned a new car
Where is the fun in that?
New cars are ugly, but thats my opinion.
Unless you can find me a brand new 92 F150, then im getting one used
"What do you say?"
"I say..."
"He says!"
"....heck."
"oh, heck!"
"Heck I say!"
"Heck he say!"
I love it.
Well, obviously, you had to have had a bad bearing somewhere in there. The good side is, it's nice and quiet now. Something I've never had all the good luck with. It's always been an out of round crank, and meant that I had to either tear it all down or buy another motor!! Good job Kev!!!
Ahhhh.....been looking forward to a new video from you guys and this one did NOT disappoint.
Great project and pretty great results! Keep us all posted on what needs to be done to this next.
A new front end??
Engine knock??
Ohh....what a tease...let's see more of this....please.
That's right on the hitch - NHTSA claimed most years of the '90s Grand Cherokee and '00s Liberty had increased risk of fire if rear-ended at fairly low speeds, and Chrysler agreed to either install hitches on vehicles without them to better spread out the rear impact force so it didn't hit right into the tank, or inspect any aftermarket hitches to confirm whether they could do the job and replace them if they weren't good enough
yeah, my 2004 liberty had that recall - never did it.
I've got a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee it's a 5.2 I've owned it since it was new and it's still my daily driver, I love it as much as I did the day I brought it home
Danke!
Mildy interesting fact from Angus's "whole seven yards or so" is that the expression "giving it the whole nine yards" originally refers to the length of a full machine gun belt
Back in WWII, nine yards of 50cal was fitted in 3 guns on each wing (3 yards in each gun) of a P51 Mustang. (If I am not mistaken)
So if you were giving the enemy the 'Full Nine Yards' then that means you layed into them with every round you had.
I think the term is still used in the military. I know my family uses the term frequently, and the last member of our family to serve was in WWII.
@@greenhillgarage interesting. My grandpa uses the phrase every now and then, makes me wonder I guess his dad must've served or something.
This video is so helpful. I have taken a semester of automotive brake and steering & suspension classes and this helps freshen me up in those skills! Thank you for all the long, hard work you have put into creating these videos!
I got the inspiration to fix up a 1996 jeep cherokee xj that was becoming a part of nature because of videos like yours. I'm now daily driving it. Keep it up man, your videos are awesome
Just hit 200k on our 95 Jeep GC, we bought it with 170k on it. Didn't do a whole lot of work on it just the crank shaft position sensor (randomly shutting off or not starting), spark plugs & wires, distributor, heater core, transmission lines, coolant flush. It's gotten us from California to Nevada a couple times and recently from California to Virginia. The 4.0 is a beast.
Love seeing Gene's Arnold Motor Supply hat, was my favorite parts store when I lived in the Cedar Rapids area. Love seeing my former state represented more and more on youtube.
I had two ZJs - 93 4.0 and a 98 5.9. 4.0 was great and never let me down. The 5.9 was amazing. Did a 242 swap and it was a bomb. I miss both of those. Now bombing around in a 2008 Diesel WK and it's still going strong.
most likely rockers or rod bearings. Pulled the pan on my powertech 4.0 and it has sloppy bearings. Still running strong thousands of miles later, but it's kinda noisy. No broken piston skirts and pistons are tight in the bore
242 was the best transfer case for these. The 249 Quadra-Trac was pitched as a higher-end, higher-tech option, but didn't give you as many settings to work with, and they tended to wear out and lock up the driveline. The 242s are versatile and pretty bulletproof.
while i always enjoy every video, Its nice to see you guys working on something different like that. My 01 Cherokee has the 4.0 with 200k, shes got that valve train noise but as long as you keep the oil clean and replaced every 3-5k its not an issue. The 4.0 is one of those engines that are very reliable as long as you do basic maintenance, but if you don't keep up with it, it'll start spinning bearings, or develop piston slap. The oil galleys are small and if sludge starts building up in there, its all over, irreversible damage.
I legitimately very much want this. The first car I ever drove was a 95 Grand Cherokee, so they have a special place in my heart. Also, that thing can rock-crawl better than you’ll believe even after reading this comment :)
I had a 96 Grand Cherokee...that thing loved being offroad...somewhere under the layers of mud it was white LOL. 232k on mine when I sold it and only because the viscous coupler in the transfer case had failed so it was more like being stuck in part time 4WD than having a full time 4WD vehicle LOL....wish I knew about the transfer case swaps back then, would have loved to swapped in the 242 Selec-Trac transfer case into it. My 98 Grand Cherokee was going to turn into a mess sadly about a year into having it, the engine knock issues started, and then the final straw was the front pump seal in the transmission decided to no longer retain the fluid inside the transmission. Best snow/ice vehicles I've had I miss my Jeep.
I had a 98 ZJ Laredo. One of the best rigs I've ever had. It started having some electrical issues so I got rid of it. I still regret it and would love to get another. This brought back alot of great memories. Rain, sleet or snow. My ZJ got me through it all with no problems. Just rugged simple utility with enough comfort. They are great vehicles.
Lynyrd Skynyrd ! ? ! Hell YEAH Brother ! ! ! I saw them in 1974 at a rodeo arena in Lena , Mississippi. Right before their first album was released. I heard Free Bird on the radio and became a lifelong fan. Album, 8 Track, cassette, CD, DVD, and then Vinyl Album again. Hell Yeah Brother ! (“Pronounced Leh-nerd Skin-nerd.”)The sub title.
I miss seeing you guys doing videos with Thunderhead 289. Your guy's revival with the satellite was by far my favorite series.
I almost bought one of these for my first car but then I bought a 1997 GMC Jimmy. Have a great day and may GOD bless everyone!
how reliable was it?
@@coler154 the Jeep?
@@daytontressler6169 no, your GMC
@@coler154 it’s been reliable other than the fuel pump and battery. It has 105,000 miles on it.
@@daytontressler6169 that's pretty cool, I have a 1992 jeep wrangler YJ 2.5L with over 260K miles, and I definitely had to do some minor and major repairs on it. But damn its a fun car to drive!
I always look forward to the weekly updates, you guys have built such a great channel. Forget all those scripted big budget fake cable shows, this is the real deal. Great work, keep it up!
I do like power nation with the big engine builds they do.
love the classic grand cherokees, I had a 94 with the inline 6. Would have kept it, if it wasn't completely rotted out and the trans was slipping when going up hill.... And yes, the fuel pump going out is a thing, and yes you have to give it a good 5-10 seconds before turning over the engine, for the fuel pump to properly prime the system. I followed that mantra ever since we replaced the pump in mine.
I have a similar story except mine was bought used and still functioning. 600 bucks for a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Needed sensors, new front drive shaft, tires, brakes, fuel tank skid plate, and it's been my daily driver for the winter time and a trail rider by summer for a few years now.
It was a hidden gem as it's got the 4.0L inline 6, but the 5 speed AT5 automatic transmission. Four-wheel drive was functioning all around. I love how simple it is, how easy it is to work on, and how cheap and available the parts are for it. I bought it figuring it would just be a beater with a heater, but now I want to keep putting money into it and make it into a 10-year or longer vehicle.
Motor has more than a quarter of a million miles, and I just recently did a trip from northern Michigan to Eastern Pennsylvania and back with a oversized trailer, and it didn't even skip a beat. It ate its own camshaft before I even started the trip, but that was going bad even before I bought it. I'm honestly impressed, and I plan to rebuild the rocker panels, and get the whole undercarriage cleaned up and rhino lined.
That front end noise could possibly be the front drive shaft. My Jeep came with the CV front shaft and it made a terrible noise when I first got it, found out the CV shaft bearings were bad. I think these Jeeps came with the u-joint front drive shaft, could just need some lube.
I absolutely LOVED my 5.2 ZJ grand Cherokee, seeing the thumbnail for this video made my day! I've got a 2nd gen explorer now with a blown trans and I miss the ZJ even more after seeing this 😂
I had a 5.2l zj too loved that jeep but my ex took it. I now have a 4.7l wj, it's nice but doesn't feel like it has the get up and go the zj had but then again I only paid $800 for it😁
The 5.9 is even better😁
@@leakyjeep5.9 Yeah, I'd love to get a 98 ZJ 5.9L Limited someday. I've never had a V8 Jeep, just 2 4L ZJ's.
Those I6 engines are almost bulletproof. With the rockers being that rusted i'm 99% sure there are holes in the floors too even if they are only pin holes. Awesome video guys! I really enjoyed it.
I just can't explain to ya how upset a guy gets when I ain't getting my jyd fix weekly . I know life is probably getting at ya like nobody's business but just figured I'd let ya know I can't wait to see some more of those barn car/truck videos. You guys are one of my top favorite channels to watch. Hope to see lots more here soon.
I had one of those jeeps given to me. same problem with the master cylinder. replaced it boom brakes were work. had to find a couple vacuum leaks as well. after doing a couple test runs with the transmission went in it. Jasper actually sent me a bad tranny. When I installed it and transmission fluid came pouring out of it from the main seal. Sent it back and got the new put in no problems. I added another transmission cooler just for piece of mind. I think the only other thing I had to do after that was replace a wheel hub. It had a sun roof that was leaking so the interior was pretty rough but was able to clean it up pretty good. Eventually I sold it to my buddies dad. Running strong with out 300k miles now. It technically is on it's 3rd transmission. That's the major downside with those model jeeps. Those transmissions are junk. Great video can't wait to see more jeep projects.
This was perfect. I just bought a 95 grand Cherokee with 220000 miles for $400 it’s been sitting for about 6 years. Hopefully it goes as smoothly as this did
Kev, Mook seemed she had had enough of that cold standing in your field 🤣. She looked like, alright can we get this over with already! Your right, it was a change of pace for you and the fellas not doing the old and crusty again. Don’t make it a habit. Love your old and crusty videos Kevin!!! Glad it all worked out in the end. 👍
Kevin with the 4.0 they are prone to "piston slap" this is a normal occurrence and won't hurt drivability. My 2nd 98 ZJ has had lifter knock for a year
my wrangler I think has the same problem at cold starts and it runs great
Just about every 4.0 in my family does that
Looks great! Awesome job guys. I was hoping y’all would weld some license plates over those rust holes though.
I have bought my 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Used in 1992, 4 wheel drive automatic with a 4.0 motor I put 210,000 miles on it. never had a wrench on it, except to replace the AC Compressor. Standard maintenance belts, hoses, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, points and condenser. Changed all fluids over time based on mileage. Changed oil every (3) thousand miles used Castrol oil 20 -50 wt. with Fram oil filters. Still driving it, doesn't use oil, but leaks oil need to have the seals replaced. Been a really great vehicle. I don't use it much any more will probably sell it.
I love it how this jeep is brought back to life with cheap and easy fixes, because it's a nice looking car that only needs a few rocker panels as far i can tell from this video.
Them 4.0 are known to have a “knock” at idle. I’ve seen a few have loose wrist pins and the pistons are slapping back and forth in the cylinder, so that might be something to look at as well.
the older 4.0's or just the powertech's? I know the powertech 4.0 in our 99 knocked louder than my 7.3 idi. Poured a couple quarts of used diesel oil in her and she got real quiet lol. They were also known to break skirts, but I dropped the pan (NOT FUN) and verified all pistons were fine.
@@frostbite1991 the ones I saw it on were 96 or older with 225k plus miles on them that weren’t well taken care over. I’ve always ran rottela t6 in them and find that helps a lot with the overall oil pressure so rod #6 gets decent oil pressure at idle. But if you live up north it can cause some dry starts if it really cold.
The knock you are talking about, is actually lifter slap. Its common in inline engines. I had a 99 WJ, with almost 200,000 miles on it. I dumped a stupid amount of money into it, and got peanuts when I sold it and bought a Chevy Trailblazer with a 4.2L inline 6, and over 200,000 miles on it with more horsepower/torque and better fuel mileage.
Flywheel bolts.
The recall is actually for extra protection in a crash to help prevent the gas tank from being crushed.
Yep. I had a '06 Liberty. Got a free Mopar hitch and installation. Boxed in the tank as there was nothing between the bumper and the tank. Sold that jeep just before the engine was scheduled for implosion.
I love that you were able to find some tech time even on some reasonably simple maintenance 🤘🤘
Thanks for the video you are a master at brakes no joke
Best episode ever. You two really work well together and are funny as heck.
I always use non-greasable u-joints on my Jeep axle shafts. They are stronger because they aren't crossed drilled and less likely to break.
Drill the caps and put nippels in them.
Now that's impressive I've never seen anyone put bearings in with the crank in the vehicle absolutely impressive
I've put rod and main bearings in a motor with it still in the vehicle (77 F250, 460 v8). It's not the easiest or best practice, but when regular maintenance and high detergent oil causes the previous owner's negligence to shoot crud through the whole oiling system, plug the filter (opening the bypass) and then wipe all the bearings, it's a helluva lot easier to do than pulling the motor and rebuilding. The truck is still running great a decade later, though it hasn't had that many miles on it that time. It still puts the oil pressure gauge on the high side of Normal!
For the mains, the trick is to loosen up all the main caps a bit at the same time - then you can take them off one at a time, and use the bottom bearing to spin the top one out of position. Work the new one back in with a plastic body filler spreader (something soft & plastic - a credit card would also work). If you're doing it, you can also replace a two piece rear main seal at the same time to save some future headache!
That’s quite normal
Good news is the oil pressure sending unit is working... bad news is I think those are 1 wire ones so that 40psi might not be 40psi.
You guys are awesome 😂 Revolutionary Revivels are you looking forward to go good luck 🤞 😂
MOOOOOOOK THATS WHERE I RECOGNISE YOU FROM!
We got JYRD digs back with it again! Man you are so cool and you never let me down! Thx for the content!
I enjoyed this. Mook sure was rather quiet.
Wow $600! My soul would leave its body if I could find one that cheap up in Ontario
Glad to see you actually taking the Jeep off road for its maiden voyage and not a pavement princess!
Hopefully replacing those bearings fixed that rod knock, it appears it did. Its never good to hear engine clatter after an oil change which is why replacing the oil regularly is a must!
Those 4.0L are such good engines.
I've had 3 of these Jeeps. If I remember correctly, I think I read somewhere that the oil pressure sensor is fake. It's a switching sensor instead of a variable sensor, so if you have enough pressure to trigger it the gauge will show about 40 regardless.
Lol same with 90s ford trucks, my friends 95' F150 and my 97' Ranger both have that type of sensor. Even if there's like 10psi of oil pressure, the gauge will just sit smack in the middle. 🤷♂️ also funny enough the wheels that were on this jeep were Ranger wheels, same bolt pattern 5x4.5 and relitivly the same offsets between 90's factory Jeep (Cherokee/Grand Cherokee/Wrangler) and Ford (Ranger/Explorer) wheels
When putting a new fuel pump you should always replace the fuel filter most likely that's what caused the other pump to go bad
On the 96-98 Grand Cherokees the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump, they don't have an external fuel filter.
Incorrect. The 96 had an external filter. 97 didn't.
@@leakyjeep5.9 it does? I haven't seen one on the few 96s that I have worked on. Then again, there have been times where I have been wrong about something that I know a decent amount about. I knew for sure the 97-98 doesn't have an external fuel filter and the 93-95 did but the 96 year for the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee was kind of a weird crossover between the 93-95 and 97-98 years.
@@TheSupermattman99 Strange. My 96 had one unless the service dept ripped me off. It was a year old. I fix my own stuff now to avoid scams.
@@leakyjeep5.9 So looked at the service information for 96 ZJ and it says that it does have a fuel filter at the front of the fuel tank, I guess I must not have noticed it.
"I fought the saw, and the saw won!"
The GOAT video..loved it! My bet would be a stuck lifter and your boost in oil pressure from new rod bearings unstuck it. You could hear the miss of a cylinder. Great job.
Hey just a tip for all of you, only grease the inside of the bearings. Absolutely do not grease the outside that touches either the piston rod or the cap. You will absolutely spin a bearing if you do. Don’t ask me how I know
pro tip from somebody with a history of misapplying grease: grease makes metal slide and spin. dont want slide or spin? dont put grease there.
FYI : When bleeding brakes you should start with the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder.
I was thinking the same thing, but it might be enough to start with the passenger side on each pair since the fronts are on one chamber, and the rears are on another. My old brake guy reminded me that they are sometimes diagonal on cars newer than mine, though.
Those aren't "Pins". They are "Needle bearings".
Nobody cares
Man, I’ve had like 5 of these ranging anywhere between ZJ (93-98) to WJ (99-04) and it’s a love/hate relationship, when they work, they are great, love them, when they don’t, their horrible, my current one is a 96 5.2 limited, red on tan, that’s going to be getting an NP 242 t-case swap, trussed rear end with an Aussie locker, Eaton e-locker in the front, 7” IRO 4 link long arm lift kit, double cardan drive shaft, 4.56 gears, bucket seats with 5 point harnesses, etc.
I gotta say, after looking at these for years, you have an interesting build, body color cladding, leather seats, with a chrome grille, with a Laredo package, usually the body color cladding and leather seats were reserved for limited packages
I love how I watched you guys talk about Plasti-Gauge and engine stuff on the 2nd of Feb
And then I learn about it in class on like the 15th. Thanks for helping me get a diploma.
The magic of the Mook cures all!!
Angus will enjoy driving that once all the problems are worked out, I've got 3 of them and they are great vehicles. Also the VIC(Vehicle Information Center) which is located down by the center console in front of the shifter, and the headlight switch are prone to having issues due to poor soldering joints. If the dash lights start to flicker or change brightness when you have the headlights on there is a solder joint in there somewhere that you can re-solder and fix it. The transfer case not wanting to go back into 2wd is also a relatively common thing on these, MVF(Mountain Vista Fabrication) makes a fix for it that seems to work pretty well. They also make a fix for those lousy cupholders that just slides over top the center console and sticks into place. I would also recommend running 5W-30 oil since he is in in a colder climate along with some zinc oil additive because it has a flat tappet cam and they will wear out relatively quick. If he ever has any questions on it I'm glad to help as I have basically rebuilt the entire driveline in one. I also have a spare 4.0L if you are still wanting to put a 4.0L in your one AMC Eagle that blew the motor.
I used to have one of these, I miss it dearly. One of the best vehicles I will ever have. First car, had it for 5 years, had all the bells and whistles.
Happy that O'Reilly Auto Parts can help you by supplying the parts you need to create your videos. Supply chain issues are real for some of us.
The black eye makeup looks good on ya Kev! Always a fun time in the junkyard yard digs garage! The paint looks quite nice for it sitting so long! I had a 78 jeep cj7, it looked nice but was a money pit and had everything wrong with it, was glad to see it go!!
I'm from the Middle East and I love watching your videos
The vibes in the Junkyard Digs garage are always perfect and funny. Lol
Had a 200k 4.0l once. Had to put about a quart of oil every month or so. Warmed it up every morning in wisconsin winters by holding her to the floor. Good motor
Very nice work looking good 👍👍👍 like it was fun 😊
You were right about that hitch recall. I never did one but we had stacks of hitches that were a pain to worn around.
I recently discovered your channel. I like that you’ve worked on AMC vehicles. I’ve always felt they were a good value and under-appreciated.
Great to see you guys again! God bless you and be safe out there.