How to prevent the wire from popping out: Step 1... drill holes where you're not supposed to, and try not to shatter your glass. Step 2... zip ties... LOLOL... get the fuck outta here with that...
Dude.....you are the Tacoma mod god , hehe. MAJOR lift kits , bumpers , bed racks , light bars ,whatever......Its all a piece of cake. I feel like I owe you money , geeze. Thanks for all the tips
So my reply from a few weeks ago mentioned zip ties becoming brittle and breaking due to UV exposure- using ‘UV resistant’ zip ties makes zero difference, they still get brittle and break within weeks in desert sun. I stopped in to a craft store and bought some thin waxed black jewelry-making cord to use in place of the zip ties. I used waxed cord in the telecom industry for many years to lace cable to racking and if you do it the proper way, the lacing locks cabling down securely forever. If the waxed cord somehow ends up unsatisfactory, I’ll use metal 16ga black hobby wire, also used for making jewelry. I almost used the hobby wire today first instead of the waxed cord, but I opted against having metal-to-glass contact at this time. I looked for black metal zip ties of the super narrow 4”-6” variety to use instead of these small plastic/nylon ones, but no luck. Could only find full size ones, and my concern anyway is that they’d pull right through the hole in the rubber moulding, rendering the anchor point useless.
I'm more interested in what happens under the hood. That's the only part stopping me. As well as how to put a switch inside the cab somewhere. I'm not electrically savvy, so my lightbar has been sitting ontop my rack all alone for some time now.
UV light makes the zipties brittle & they fail every other month or so even if you use UV-spec zipties. My wiring to my rack is pretty thick since I used shrink wrap around 6 wires to various lights. The KC Lights wire hider is too small to fit my wiring harness, so I had to resort to this ziptie method. Will prob switch to twist-tied very small gauge black wiring in place of zipties to eliminate failures. Really can’t think of any other alternative.
I tried to not drill through my firewall, but I think you have to in order get any wiring through it. However, I would use the smallest drill bit possible that way its a snug fit when wire goes through it.
You could have simply added a long strip of 3m tape to the wire, then stuck that inside, sticking it into the channel by adhesive…this way you can remove it with no issues & no drilling…
Put thin 2 sided tape on the side of cord and tuck under that railit under the side rail. If your rill holes the windshield gets damaged they will not warrantee it. Why take a chance. And astetically it looks more clean. "Professional" i am sure you don't offer free glass replacement
Drilling holes into molding where it introduces water where its not supposed to go? Yeah, no thanks. Plus that just looks butt ugly. Use a small silicon bead to seal the cable in. I'm out.
lol wow. Drill holes? And didn’t show how to run wires into the cab smh 🤦♂️. I ran it on the other side of the weatherstrip it was tight didn’t need to zip tie so no holes. Then removed some of the plastic under the hood way better routing, no holes required and looks much cleaner and doesn’t chaff on anything. This is shit.
How to prevent the wire from popping out: Step 1... drill holes where you're not supposed to, and try not to shatter your glass. Step 2... zip ties... LOLOL... get the fuck outta here with that...
lmao
A few beads of silicone behind wire will keep it inside window seal. No need to compromise the seal with drill .
Came to comment section to say this
I'm afraid of the drill being that close to my windshield... I may just line it with black silicone.
You can go on the other side of the weather stripping and then no hole.
Dude.....you are the Tacoma mod god , hehe. MAJOR lift kits , bumpers , bed racks , light bars ,whatever......Its all a piece of cake. I feel like I owe you money , geeze. Thanks for all the tips
So my reply from a few weeks ago mentioned zip ties becoming brittle and breaking due to UV exposure- using ‘UV resistant’ zip ties makes zero difference, they still get brittle and break within weeks in desert sun. I stopped in to a craft store and bought some thin waxed black jewelry-making cord to use in place of the zip ties. I used waxed cord in the telecom industry for many years to lace cable to racking and if you do it the proper way, the lacing locks cabling down securely forever. If the waxed cord somehow ends up unsatisfactory, I’ll use metal 16ga black hobby wire, also used for making jewelry. I almost used the hobby wire today first instead of the waxed cord, but I opted against having metal-to-glass contact at this time.
I looked for black metal zip ties of the super narrow 4”-6” variety to use instead of these small plastic/nylon ones, but no luck. Could only find full size ones, and my concern anyway is that they’d pull right through the hole in the rubber moulding, rendering the anchor point useless.
Thank you! I was about to drill through the mounting point on the roof and pull the head liner and pillar cover off. This is a way better alternative!
can you make a video for switch pro install please, or tell me where to purchase?
How about if you don't have the Switch Pro?
Nice set up. Personally, I’m doing mine with light bar behind the grill. I want it to look as stock as possible. Yours is siiiick though.
I'm more interested in what happens under the hood. That's the only part stopping me. As well as how to put a switch inside the cab somewhere. I'm not electrically savvy, so my lightbar has been sitting ontop my rack all alone for some time now.
Really like that switch pro setup, do you have the link for that? And thank you
thanks for this. I will copy this metheod cause i got more than just 1 cord im running up there for 2 sets of additional lights.
4:44 would you look at that. Just look at it
Perfect. Just what I was looking for! Thank you for making this video.
Stick wiith Cloe. She does get informative and detailed ad ons
Do you guys have any video or instruction for how to install the light bar itself????
UV light makes the zipties brittle & they fail every other month or so even if you use UV-spec zipties. My wiring to my rack is pretty thick since I used shrink wrap around 6 wires to various lights. The KC Lights wire hider is too small to fit my wiring harness, so I had to resort to this ziptie method. Will prob switch to twist-tied very small gauge black wiring in place of zipties to eliminate failures. Really can’t think of any other alternative.
Thank you for all your instructions! Do you have a video how to wire through your fire wall without drilling?
I tried to not drill through my firewall, but I think you have to in order get any wiring through it. However, I would use the smallest drill bit possible that way its a snug fit when wire goes through it.
Awesome tip man🤙 Thanks for sharing.
legit the only reason i don’t want a roof light bar, but now i’ve changed my mind 😬
Hi I will like to know what the controller called you used inside the truck to turn the lights on and off
Aux beam makes a good switch pod look for it in Amazon
Will your sun roof still open with the roof rack?
Yes, it will still open and vent.
Ah. F it. I’ll do it this way lol. Ditch lights, roof rack with an LED light bar and a light control module going into mine this week after work.
I have a dual row light bar with thicker cord won’t fit so have to find new Solution
Where can I buy that light bar?
www.rigidindustries.com/sr-series-pro-40-spot-flood-combo-940314.html
Do you have to use a single row light bar with this rack? Can a do a ridgid double row light bar instead??
You would have to come up with your own mounts and it would sit higher, but it should work fine.
When is the tweeter video for the realhawk coming out?
I have an access cab on my Tacoma, do you guys plan on making one for that?
Yes, we do!
what roof rack is that brother?
www.victory4x4.com/product/VT23RK.html
You could have simply added a long strip of 3m tape to the wire, then stuck that inside, sticking it into the channel by adhesive…this way you can remove it with no issues & no drilling…
Who runs their Tacoma overland rig through a carwash? :P
what are those seats with the TRD logo on them and can i get them for a 2015?
They are Katzkin leather.
Quality work!
Is there a link for your Tacoma build
Needs some updated photos but check out our build page.
www.victory4x4.com/BUILDS.html
Why not just use some windshield urethane to glue it in place
Put thin 2 sided tape on the side of cord and tuck under that railit under the side rail. If your rill holes the windshield gets damaged they will not warrantee it. Why take a chance. And astetically it looks more clean. "Professional" i am sure you don't offer free glass replacement
"Super easy"...if you have a Switch Pro.
Stealth!
That's definitely not "full height" it doesn't even reach the top of the cab much less being flush with the roof rack. Come on Victory4x4.
Yeah this was a very I’ll informed video. You basically just highlighted things not to do to your truck and skipped the actual electrical wiring.
Do NOT do this. the cable can be tucked in under the strip.
Drilling holes into molding where it introduces water where its not supposed to go? Yeah, no thanks. Plus that just looks butt ugly. Use a small silicon bead to seal the cable in. I'm out.
Wtf?😂
lol wow. Drill holes? And didn’t show how to run wires into the cab smh 🤦♂️. I ran it on the other side of the weatherstrip it was tight didn’t need to zip tie so no holes. Then removed some of the plastic under the hood way better routing, no holes required and looks much cleaner and doesn’t chaff on anything. This is shit.