uncert is all i care about. i always wanted a hifonics amp from way back in 1992, but now its tarbabyamps paired with hifonics drivers. old school is still cool. we did it first. thank you for your dyno.
Let me start by saying what a great video. This is the first video of yours that I have watched. I searched for this specific amp since I picked one up about a year ago and was curious about it (and havent installed it yet lol). You definitely got my subscription to the channel. I havent installed a system since around 2011 but this has motivated me to go ahead and install mine!
@stereomojo at the moment I'm not sure what I want to put in. I used to have a setup with 2 amps powering 4 12s all together but I can't recall the specific setup I had. It wasn't a super expensive build but man did it hit hard. I have a Grand Marquis so space is practically unlimited. What subs would you recommend for this amp? I would like a setup with 2 12s as a start
I had Hifonics Thor amp back in 1994-1995 and those things killed the Hifonics 12” Olympus subs I had it hooked up to. Those were the days when we couldn’t afford Fosgate and Kicker. lol It was LA Sound Amps and JBL subs for high school punks like us!!!
audiozerone $89, 1000 watts plus, its tested above 1100 watts. I bought one when I was at $79, but when I just went on sale it was below $50 but the price gradually increased but stopped at 89
Wish I would have seen this a couple months ago when I bought one🤦. But, in all fairness, I e got it on an old Comp VR 15" dvc @2ohms in a sealed box, and it is doing the dam thang. So, I can actually say, it's not just complete junk...
I have the crappy cerwin vega cvp2000.1 that you tested. It felt way under power for my skar 18. Again thank you. And I have also canceled my order on the Lanzar Vibe. You have save me my brother
I still have my Zeus and colossus vii zeds. Had the Zeus running 4 gold letter kicker 12's 4 15's of the same on the colossus. 10c/watt now lol go figure Nice video thanks 👍
@stereomojo both vehicles got me a couple trophies. The aggravation of having it back then, people I've never seen before, play this play that. Hifonics has a newer colossus that is pretty beefy.
I like the certified as thats 1% distortion whereas the uncertified can be anywhere between 6% to 10% distortion. The certified power is more useful on amps for mids and tweets while uncertified is more useful for subwoofers. I also like dynamic as that's more real world use since music can pulse. Big dynamic numbers can be a sign it won't clip at high volume levels and that it's somewhat overbuilt. I like that in an amp. 👍
I have an old school lightning audio la-3000md amp that looks so similiar to that hifonics but it has two 70 amp maxi's. I was told that some lightning audios and hifonics were made in the same factory back in the day.
@@thomasbradian6367 yeah lightning audio was acutally pretty decent, had a 1000 watt 1 ohm stable version over a decade ago that was pushing 2 twelves like nothing.
@@stereomojo yeah I've collected a bunch over the years. BRX2400.1 , multiple BRX2000.1 and BRX640.4 . Have also ran them at half ohm with no issues. I believe they are from 2010 to 2015 .
It’s just nice to see the output RCSs because if you had a second amp, you can run RCAs from the output going to the input of the 2nd amp. This keeps you from having to run a 2nd set of RCAs all the way to the head unit.
Damn, For You guys my age that might remember when Zed Audio built HiFonics amps in 80’s/early 90’s were the 💣 , AutoTek and a few more these were some of the first real efficient RMS watts amps with built in crossover! I had a HiFonics “Cyclops” (by Zed Audio) “100 watts x 1” on (2) Kicker 12” subs in perfect sealed / separate chambers enclosure with carpet that went in 5 or 6 of my autos over the years or I’d still have my Cyclops on some new subs but of coarse it was stolen with my Alpine CD player! “Power From the Gods!” It used to say in their ads or amp cartons!#🔊👑💣❤️#HiFonics#”late80’s/early90’s”
The early series I had lasted for years through many vehicles and were just dull blue amps with large heat sinks like my current D4S’s JP8 with a silver label running across the top in big letters telling you which Greek God or character it was named after and in small letters in the right lower side of Label saying made in U.S.A. from Zed Audio & with (1) heavy hot red wire and (1) heavy black ground wire hanging out out my “Cyclop’s” (100x1) mono amp with a (1) set of rca jacks and adjustable crossover knob (grey and flat with an arrow on it) back then it was so early it didn’t have series written on them like for example; V , Vl, Vll, yet. Now I see pictures of silver flat amps with bright blue HiFonics lit up across the top. Just know they were so freaking awesome having some AMERICAN made amp with a built in crossover and it wasn’t “the Punch” Rockford Fosgate! I used to eat those guys lunch with my Hifonics “Cyclops” with a pair of round 15” Kicker subs vs. their “the Punch 150” with a pair of the Punch RF 15” subs and at the time it felt great because we loved Kicker subs and they would pound but they didn’t make a Kicker amp yet.@@JasonWW2000
Looking at the picture of this “Zues” in this picture looks “Nothing” like the old ones we had! Think of Down4Sound’s JP amps in dull blue color were our first HiFonic’s mono sub amps with a built in crossover was such a “GREAT” Super Reliable amp made in 🇺🇸!#🔊❤️@@JasonWW2000
agradezco mucho cada prueba que realizas , te felicito brother excelente pruebas sigue adelante compartiendo ese buen contenido, en cuanto al amplificador siempre ese marca es muy mentirosa en su potencia , decepcionado el zeus
The why is easy, it fools the new buyer into thinking they are getting big power for a low price and since they don't know what 2400 watts actually is they are satisfied with whatever power it puts out. Maxxsonics gets the sale and the profits.
Ive ran a couple Brutus amp in the past. I had the BRZ2400.1 and a BRX1600.1 and they were great budget amps that put out good power. I really liked that BRZ line. They looked good and performed well.
audiozerone is $89 and is 1000 watts tested, I know this cost more than $100, maybe paying for warranty or something but the audiozerone does more than this, really disappointing
How is it over fused? It drew 133 amps on a fuse rated for 120A. I'd say it's fused just right. Keep in mind that the fuse rated is determined by how many amps it draws. Efficiency plays a huge factor here.
@@JasonWW2000 meaning, it didn't need that amperage to get that power. Thanks to channel like this maxxsonic, and epsilon have now start to over fusing their amps, because the rule of thumb is you time's the fuse amperage by 10. I have quite a few amps, and my punch 400 suggest you use a 40amp fuse, and the birth sheet says 436 Watts (certified) like I said before my alpine mrv 1505 v12 expert does a kilowatt of power with an 80 amp fuse. Do i have to continue, or do you understand why I say, over fusing
@@JasonWW2000 I'm not going to watch the video to determan efficiency, just remember his test bench is giving a constant 14.4 volts, like any amp( without a regulated power supply) will produce more power, when fed more power, that's why on one of his video, he test a Jensen monoblock it was rated at 600 watts, he got 900 Watts by feeding it more power. Most class d monoblock amps are 80 to 90% efficient my alpine is a class ab, meaning its less efficient than that hifonics trash, and still produces more power. You are probably to young to remember zed audio, made in the USA, hifonics Zeus, it didn't have 120 amp worth of fusing
@@thomasbradian6367 Sorry, but I'm not understanding what you mean by "it didn't need that amperage to get that power". Are you understanding what efficiency is? It's the percentage of power that comes out of an amp in comparison to the power that goes in. This amplifier needed 133 amps at 14.3 volts to produce 1,000 watts of output. 1900 watts went in and 1000 watts came out. That's about 53% efficient which is not good by class D standards. So with its low efficiency, it actually does need 133A (at 14.3v) to make 1,000 watts. This is math. So the fusing of 120A is correct. This is not an example of overfusing. It's an example of poor efficiency. There's a difference. Also keep in mind that the rule of thumb of 10x the fuse rating only applies to class D amps about 80% efficient. Its just a loose guide, certainly not set in stone. Just like class A/B amps rule of thumb of x7 the fuse.
@@thomasbradian6367 I'm trying to help you out and your acting like a troll. Are you trying to demean me by saying I'm not old enough to remember such and such. You obviously don't know my age or how long I've been doing this. Don't be a troll, be respectful.
![How Much Power Does a $49 4000W Walmart Amp Make? [4K]](/img/1.gif)
I loved Hifonics back in the day (late 80's early 90's) especially the Dual mono-blocks
uncert is all i care about. i always wanted a hifonics amp from way back in 1992, but now its tarbabyamps paired with hifonics drivers. old school is still cool. we did it first. thank you for your dyno.
Awesome comment, thanks!
In the 90’s I had a Hifonics Boltar pushing 2 kicker Comp 15’s! It was a beast, the new Hifonics are budget amps now!!
love the older hifonics, i've owned my BRZ2400.1D since like 2009 and its ran .5ohm its whole life, still bumping!
Wow, that’s impressive!
I had the 1200 series and it was a BEAST before someone broke into my car and took my setup 😢
I like seeing all certified uncertified and especially dynamic also wish u could do some 12 volt tests
Let me start by saying what a great video. This is the first video of yours that I have watched. I searched for this specific amp since I picked one up about a year ago and was curious about it (and havent installed it yet lol). You definitely got my subscription to the channel. I havent installed a system since around 2011 but this has motivated me to go ahead and install mine!
Man, what a great comment! Thanks for the support! I hope the install turns out awesome. Keep in touch, and let me know how it goes.
@stereomojo Absolutely, this is my first Hifonics amp ever so I'm pretty stoked about it
@@terlinguaDrift do you know what sub or subs you’re gonna put on it?
@stereomojo at the moment I'm not sure what I want to put in. I used to have a setup with 2 amps powering 4 12s all together but I can't recall the specific setup I had. It wasn't a super expensive build but man did it hit hard.
I have a Grand Marquis so space is practically unlimited. What subs would you recommend for this amp? I would like a setup with 2 12s as a start
I like as much info as possible on these test especially on your new vid where you also test the ts parameters of the sub you had.
I had Hifonics Thor amp back in 1994-1995 and those things killed the Hifonics 12” Olympus subs I had it hooked up to.
Those were the days when we couldn’t afford Fosgate and Kicker.
lol
It was LA Sound Amps and JBL subs for high school punks like us!!!
I’ve been recently looking at this budget amp. Thank you
audiozerone $89, 1000 watts plus, its tested above 1100 watts. I bought one when I was at $79, but when I just went on sale it was below $50 but the price gradually increased but stopped at 89
@@delamarhamilton7225 that brand doesn’t ship to Canada. Ca Amazon is very limited
The Recoil and Stinger amps are also bargain units that put out rated or more than rated.
Wish I would have seen this a couple months ago when I bought one🤦. But, in all fairness, I e got it on an old Comp VR 15" dvc @2ohms in a sealed box, and it is doing the dam thang. So, I can actually say, it's not just complete junk...
I have the crappy cerwin vega cvp2000.1 that you tested. It felt way under power for my skar 18. Again thank you. And I have also canceled my order on the Lanzar Vibe. You have save me my brother
Lol, I’m glad to help out!
I had the cerwin vega spro 2100. It was junk too. Did its rated power but fell off drastically fighting rise.
I still have my Zeus and colossus vii zeds.
Had the Zeus running 4 gold letter kicker 12's
4 15's of the same on the colossus.
10c/watt now lol go figure
Nice video thanks 👍
Wow, I bet that sounded good! That would’ve been a big system back in the day!
@stereomojo both vehicles got me a couple trophies. The aggravation of having it back then, people I've never seen before, play this play that.
Hifonics has a newer colossus that is pretty beefy.
Absolutely need the certified number. Tells us power at the clean signal.
Thanks for the video! I didn’t have high hopes for it
Thanks Ronco! I feel like the ZG did better.
My Zeus 1000 only lasted a little over a year, it was muddy base compared to my D4S 13.
I like the certified as thats 1% distortion whereas the uncertified can be anywhere between 6% to 10% distortion. The certified power is more useful on amps for mids and tweets while uncertified is more useful for subwoofers.
I also like dynamic as that's more real world use since music can pulse. Big dynamic numbers can be a sign it won't clip at high volume levels and that it's somewhat overbuilt. I like that in an amp. 👍
I have an old school lightning audio la-3000md amp that looks so similiar to that hifonics but it has two 70 amp maxi's. I was told that some lightning audios and hifonics were made in the same factory back in the day.
Lightning audio is low end Rockford fosgate, not maxxsonic, I mean hifonics 😂
@@thomasbradian6367 yes i know that but the la series was made in same factory as hifonics. a lot of brands do this.
@@thomasbradian6367 yeah lightning audio was acutally pretty decent, had a 1000 watt 1 ohm stable version over a decade ago that was pushing 2 twelves like nothing.
A good majority of amps come out of just a few build houses.
Zues is their middle of the road line , Brutus line is a step up. Usually do close to rated power.
I haven’t ever played with a Brutus, but I need to put it on my list of possible candidates.
@@stereomojo yeah I've collected a bunch over the years. BRX2400.1 , multiple BRX2000.1 and BRX640.4 . Have also ran them at half ohm with no issues. I believe they are from 2010 to 2015 .
Nice video brother I had one question tho do you put sub rca to the output of amp? Thats why u said it’s better seeing them
It’s just nice to see the output RCSs because if you had a second amp, you can run RCAs from the output going to the input of the 2nd amp. This keeps you from having to run a 2nd set of RCAs all the way to the head unit.
Damn, For You guys my age that might remember when Zed Audio built HiFonics amps in 80’s/early 90’s were the 💣 , AutoTek and a few more these were some of the first real efficient RMS watts amps with built in crossover! I had a HiFonics “Cyclops” (by Zed Audio) “100 watts x 1” on (2) Kicker 12” subs in perfect sealed / separate chambers enclosure with carpet that went in 5 or 6 of my autos over the years or I’d still have my Cyclops on some new subs but of coarse it was stolen with my Alpine CD player! “Power From the Gods!” It used to say in their ads or amp cartons!#🔊👑💣❤️#HiFonics#”late80’s/early90’s”
That’s cool! I wish I could’ve had some of their stuff back in the day.
HiFonics, PPI, AutoTek, ORION(Reds), Phoenix Gold! #🔊❤️#The80’s”Best”orTime”!@@stereomojo
Was the series VIII still made by Zed or was the VII the last series by them?
The early series I had lasted for years through many vehicles and were just dull blue amps with large heat sinks like my current D4S’s JP8 with a silver label running across the top in big letters telling you which Greek God or character it was named after and in small letters in the right lower side of Label saying made in U.S.A. from Zed Audio & with (1) heavy hot red wire and (1) heavy black ground wire hanging out out my “Cyclop’s” (100x1) mono amp with a (1) set of rca jacks and adjustable crossover knob (grey and flat with an arrow on it) back then it was so early it didn’t have series written on them like for example; V , Vl, Vll, yet. Now I see pictures of silver flat amps with bright blue HiFonics lit up across the top. Just know they were so freaking awesome having some AMERICAN made amp with a built in crossover and it wasn’t “the Punch” Rockford Fosgate! I used to eat those guys lunch with my Hifonics “Cyclops” with a pair of round 15” Kicker subs vs. their “the Punch 150” with a pair of the Punch RF 15” subs and at the time it felt great because we loved Kicker subs and they would pound but they didn’t make a Kicker amp yet.@@JasonWW2000
Looking at the picture of this “Zues” in this picture looks “Nothing” like the old ones we had! Think of Down4Sound’s JP amps in dull blue color were our first HiFonic’s mono sub amps with a built in crossover was such a “GREAT” Super Reliable amp made in 🇺🇸!#🔊❤️@@JasonWW2000
“Colossus” was HiFonics Big Boy 🔊👑 back then!#🔊❤️@StereoMoJo
Cool! Do you remember how many watts it did?
Series VII and VIII were rated at 1200 watts.
agradezco mucho cada prueba que realizas , te felicito brother excelente pruebas sigue adelante compartiendo ese buen contenido, en cuanto al amplificador siempre ese marca es muy mentirosa en su potencia , decepcionado el zeus
Wasn't expecting much after the 4ohm run. I think quality is good. Just disappointed in company for making such claims. Why?
The why is easy, it fools the new buyer into thinking they are getting big power for a low price and since they don't know what 2400 watts actually is they are satisfied with whatever power it puts out. Maxxsonics gets the sale and the profits.
Zeus is Max wattage while Brutus is Dynamic wattage.. Look at some dyno vids. I run the bxx3000 now 😁
Ive ran a couple Brutus amp in the past. I had the BRZ2400.1 and a BRX1600.1 and they were great budget amps that put out good power. I really liked that BRZ line. They looked good and performed well.
👍👍
audiozerone is $89 and is 1000 watts tested, I know this cost more than $100, maybe paying for warranty or something but the audiozerone does more than this, really disappointing
I have the zxx5000.5 the imputs are def 4ga not 2ga lol
Cool!
100.60 ?? AH. Lithium
If I said that, I meant 160.
Damn, disappointing. I’m building my system and had considered Zeus or Boltar for my 12’s in series or mono. Now. No way. Totally disappointing
Blowing hair, rags, tissue, trunk rattling, means nothing to me. Does not define sound in any way what so ever.
Over fused trash, my alpine mrv1505 has an 80amp fuse, and does a 1000watts. the USA made hifonics zeus did a 1000watts
How is it over fused?
It drew 133 amps on a fuse rated for 120A. I'd say it's fused just right.
Keep in mind that the fuse rated is determined by how many amps it draws. Efficiency plays a huge factor here.
@@JasonWW2000 meaning, it didn't need that amperage to get that power. Thanks to channel like this maxxsonic, and epsilon have now start to over fusing their amps, because the rule of thumb is you time's the fuse amperage by 10. I have quite a few amps, and my punch 400 suggest you use a 40amp fuse, and the birth sheet says 436 Watts (certified) like I said before my alpine mrv 1505 v12 expert does a kilowatt of power with an 80 amp fuse. Do i have to continue, or do you understand why I say, over fusing
@@JasonWW2000 I'm not going to watch the video to determan efficiency, just remember his test bench is giving a constant 14.4 volts, like any amp( without a regulated power supply) will produce more power, when fed more power, that's why on one of his video, he test a Jensen monoblock it was rated at 600 watts, he got 900 Watts by feeding it more power. Most class d monoblock amps are 80 to 90% efficient my alpine is a class ab, meaning its less efficient than that hifonics trash, and still produces more power. You are probably to young to remember zed audio, made in the USA, hifonics Zeus, it didn't have 120 amp worth of fusing
@@thomasbradian6367 Sorry, but I'm not understanding what you mean by "it didn't need that amperage to get that power". Are you understanding what efficiency is? It's the percentage of power that comes out of an amp in comparison to the power that goes in.
This amplifier needed 133 amps at 14.3 volts to produce 1,000 watts of output. 1900 watts went in and 1000 watts came out. That's about 53% efficient which is not good by class D standards. So with its low efficiency, it actually does need 133A (at 14.3v) to make 1,000 watts. This is math. So the fusing of 120A is correct. This is not an example of overfusing. It's an example of poor efficiency. There's a difference.
Also keep in mind that the rule of thumb of 10x the fuse rating only applies to class D amps about 80% efficient. Its just a loose guide, certainly not set in stone. Just like class A/B amps rule of thumb of x7 the fuse.
@@thomasbradian6367 I'm trying to help you out and your acting like a troll. Are you trying to demean me by saying I'm not old enough to remember such and such. You obviously don't know my age or how long I've been doing this. Don't be a troll, be respectful.