What makes this so legendary is the attention to detail for the Super Taikyu build, Despite the engine being stock. I also noticed the U-Brace removal at the front.
I like the conversation we had about the turbo placement on the RHD being so cramped with the brake booster etc being there, it's crazy to think the LHD STI's have sort of a advantage from not having the turbo on the same side as the brake/clutch booster.
Very cool, I tried to justify buying both this car and the one with the HPI Racing livery years back when Wirewheel had them but I just didn't have the space. Still kicking myself that I ended up with neither. Enjoy it! Its a special car for sure!
I am surprised how many components are stock. I am so glad in the US we drive on the left hand side. That brake master cylinder sitting so close to the turbo is no good. What was that white plastic reservoir between the backseat and the feul cell? Never seen roll down windows on an STI.
U might want to try installing forester sf5 front LCA big bushing to replace the stock sti unit... Its called anti-lift kit (for cheap) the same geometry change can be achieved by purchasing whiteline anti lift kit as well... Wonder how much front end grip increase with this already good car setup
Those are Quantum Racing Suspension shocks - a company from here in the UK. They maybe able to give you some information on them but I believe at some point they probably ceased operations and lost a lot of documentation but are back up and running now.
We’ll have it in Austin Tx with the Super Lap Battle Cota March 6-7th! If you’re near there or wanna be, drop by to check out the car! SLB will also be doing a live broadcast on RUclips, you can even see it in action!
Had to come back and rewatch this, but I'm pretty sure those are Legacy/Forester engine mounts. Group N mounts are not round. Crazy how well this car is doing at SLP currently with this basically stock set up... Who would have thought that????....lol
Man is this car in the us now man I wish this was mine how was you able to buy this I would street drive this thing!!! You have to get some hpi models Of it
this is giving me so many ideas for my own impreza build. i made a mistake buying an external oil cooler. if this car can hot lap with an integrated radiator/oil cooler so can I. and its less length of line to worry about. Those strut top plates give me ideas too. i just installed the ultra racing fender braces to try to stiffen that area up too. im shocked its on stock sway bars and what looks like steel rear control arms with no adjustment. might have been a class rule?
So a bunch if things… first the oil cooler is still oil to air; sure its cool it was in the cooling package, but ultimately, that setup isnt really available (csf makes one and it WILL drop your Oil Pressure, not good) so an external cooler is really where its at. Next, this bracing stuff… all that plating and what not is to prevent big blow outs, super common in rally cars, i guess common in Japanese enduro cars. With everything tied into everything else, its no doubt adding stiffness. Those racing fender braces really arent gonna do the same thing, and probably not much stiffer than the factory support braces. My other car hasnt had any problems with this, however is caged. Next is the sways… sway bar tuning is used WAY too much. Most high end suspension companies know that spring tuning is where its at. The shocks are matching to dampen the spring frequencies and when you add in sway bars, you end up with an underdamped car in the corners or an over dampened car in the straights. Sway bar tuning is either something to work within the ruleset (think solo2 street class) or something when you wanna adjust spring rates on the fly for certain car behaviors at the track, and truthfully, you should be doing that with compression adjustment on a decent 2way setup. So really, rather than spending money on OTS coilovers AND Sways, you should be spending money on custom valved coilovers matched to your discipline and setup. Its cheaper AND better! Last and far from least, the rear lateral links. Yes they are stock. But stock Group N Pink Lateral links and trailing arms mean sealed hiem joints, truly the only way to fly. GD rear suspension binds with poly bushings, so if rules allow, hiem joints are the best bushing to use, especially in the trailing arm. Hope all this helps, and good luck with the Build!
@@dsxmotorsports good to know. Ill hold back on the pricey coilover till iget more seat time. i am on the bc racing Br. old owner had em on an i figure ill beat em into breakage and get something better maybe call up RCE and see what they say for the car. Moto IQ and mike kojima seem to think those fender braces do stuff. but again we are comparing an non roll caged car to one that was/all the stitch welds! Ill keep an eye out for the hiem jointed rear lateral arms. I went with the aluminum ones and every bushing was replaced with whitelines catalouge. Im also eyeing that rear diff cooler set up. good to know on the oil cooler to keep it seperated. I also noted a lack of the U brace. this was was originally a 03 model right? then changed over in 05 for the 06 year and "hawkeye look" wonder if that U brace isnt needed at all. thanks for the response! hopefully you can get the cage sorted and we see more of it out there
Would be interesting to get into the head of the people responsible for the rollcage and all welding work on the car... seamwelding is 15-40mm-ish welds with some space between, not just tacks everywhere like this, and on completely useless places... and welding the subframes into the chassi, wtf?!
So for all those that question the safety. Japanese race a million times cleaner than americans, so they didnt have to worry about some idiot crashing into them going for a gap that didnt exist.
You should make new cage before you drive it! I saw at right side between seat and B-pilar was one joint not welded all the way around. I think therw can be many of those fake welds. That cage is dangerous if you crash.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
What makes this so legendary is the attention to detail for the Super Taikyu build, Despite the engine being stock. I also noticed the U-Brace removal at the front.
I like the conversation we had about the turbo placement on the RHD being so cramped with the brake booster etc being there, it's crazy to think the LHD STI's have sort of a advantage from not having the turbo on the same side as the brake/clutch booster.
Yea totally. And its totally possible to put the turbo on the lh, why they didnt do it, ill have no idea. Pretty cool though
Very cool, I tried to justify buying both this car and the one with the HPI Racing livery years back when Wirewheel had them but I just didn't have the space. Still kicking myself that I ended up with neither. Enjoy it! Its a special car for sure!
So not kamikaze?? Driving
What an inspiration, absolutely amazing track car!!👍🏼🚀🚀
Stoked you put this up. Seeing the car in detail really helps justify how special it is 🙏
I am surprised how many components are stock. I am so glad in the US we drive on the left hand side. That brake master cylinder sitting so close to the turbo is no good. What was that white plastic reservoir between the backseat and the feul cell? Never seen roll down windows on an STI.
Great video! Thank you for sharing information about such a interesting car!
Can you tell more about how camber is adjusted with setup like this?
U might want to try installing forester sf5 front LCA big bushing to replace the stock sti unit...
Its called anti-lift kit (for cheap) the same geometry change can be achieved by purchasing whiteline anti lift kit as well...
Wonder how much front end grip increase with this already good car setup
Congrats buddy! hope you enjoy it some much!
Those are Quantum Racing Suspension shocks - a company from here in the UK. They maybe able to give you some information on them but I believe at some point they probably ceased operations and lost a lot of documentation but are back up and running now.
i wanna see more of this car ❤️, so balanced 🥳🎉
We’ll have it in Austin Tx with the Super Lap Battle Cota March 6-7th! If you’re near there or wanna be, drop by to check out the car! SLB will also be doing a live broadcast on RUclips, you can even see it in action!
Super rad, miss that car from having it around during the Hpi days.
So excited to see more of this!
Thank you sir!!
Def could be! Its also getting wster temp from another spot too we found out!
The Cage is sketchy af. The Rest ist pretty Rad! Looking Forward to what you Guys will do with the Car. Cheers from Germany
Had to come back and rewatch this, but I'm pretty sure those are Legacy/Forester engine mounts. Group N mounts are not round. Crazy how well this car is doing at SLP currently with this basically stock set up... Who would have thought that????....lol
Those are the Heavy Duty Group N Competition VO Engine Mounts
@11:27 Oil pressure sensor? Looks like it leads to just behind/under the alternator.
I would say you are correct. I haven't had the chance to really look under the hood, but that was my first impression.
F**king beautiful!!!!
Can anyone please tell me what is the model of the front bumper and side skirt?
Reinforced crossmember, but no subframe?
U frame is pretty much useless except for crash safety. And the crossmember is welded to the car.
Man is this car in the us now man I wish this was mine how was you able to buy this I would street drive this thing!!! You have to get some hpi models Of it
this is giving me so many ideas for my own impreza build. i made a mistake buying an external oil cooler. if this car can hot lap with an integrated radiator/oil cooler so can I. and its less length of line to worry about. Those strut top plates give me ideas too. i just installed the ultra racing fender braces to try to stiffen that area up too. im shocked its on stock sway bars and what looks like steel rear control arms with no adjustment. might have been a class rule?
So a bunch if things… first the oil cooler is still oil to air; sure its cool it was in the cooling package, but ultimately, that setup isnt really available (csf makes one and it WILL drop your Oil Pressure, not good) so an external cooler is really where its at. Next, this bracing stuff… all that plating and what not is to prevent big blow outs, super common in rally cars, i guess common in Japanese enduro cars. With everything tied into everything else, its no doubt adding stiffness. Those racing fender braces really arent gonna do the same thing, and probably not much stiffer than the factory support braces. My other car hasnt had any problems with this, however is caged. Next is the sways… sway bar tuning is used WAY too much. Most high end suspension companies know that spring tuning is where its at. The shocks are matching to dampen the spring frequencies and when you add in sway bars, you end up with an underdamped car in the corners or an over dampened car in the straights. Sway bar tuning is either something to work within the ruleset (think solo2 street class) or something when you wanna adjust spring rates on the fly for certain car behaviors at the track, and truthfully, you should be doing that with compression adjustment on a decent 2way setup. So really, rather than spending money on OTS coilovers AND Sways, you should be spending money on custom valved coilovers matched to your discipline and setup. Its cheaper AND better! Last and far from least, the rear lateral links. Yes they are stock. But stock Group N Pink Lateral links and trailing arms mean sealed hiem joints, truly the only way to fly. GD rear suspension binds with poly bushings, so if rules allow, hiem joints are the best bushing to use, especially in the trailing arm. Hope all this helps, and good luck with the Build!
@@dsxmotorsports good to know. Ill hold back on the pricey coilover till iget more seat time. i am on the bc racing Br. old owner had em on an i figure ill beat em into breakage and get something better maybe call up RCE and see what they say for the car. Moto IQ and mike kojima seem to think those fender braces do stuff. but again we are comparing an non roll caged car to one that was/all the stitch welds! Ill keep an eye out for the hiem jointed rear lateral arms. I went with the aluminum ones and every bushing was replaced with whitelines catalouge. Im also eyeing that rear diff cooler set up. good to know on the oil cooler to keep it seperated. I also noted a lack of the U brace. this was was originally a 03 model right? then changed over in 05 for the 06 year and "hawkeye look" wonder if that U brace isnt needed at all.
thanks for the response! hopefully you can get the cage sorted and we see more of it out there
What is that heat wrap that they use for the brake boost, master cyl, etc
Most likely turbine housing shielding they just hammered out and or into shape
do you know which model enkei wheel?
I believe it the rc-t4
Some of the welding looks well iffy but typical jdm welding and standard top mount inter warmer so not above 400 really
Japan has a much lower temp than american generally. Plus it was stipulated in the rules that stock locations must be used
What size of rims are those and the specs of them please?
18x 9.5 +38mm
フロントのサブフレーム付いて無いんだな！
クロスメンバーに補強入ってるみたいだから必要無いのかな？
Wish I knew what this said
A sub-frame sticks, and isn't it at the front?
Reinforcement enters a cross member, and are you here? Therefore isn't that necessary?
@@三代目コージ 正しい。重量を節約するために欠けています。
Would be interesting to get into the head of the people responsible for the rollcage and all welding work on the car... seamwelding is 15-40mm-ish welds with some space between, not just tacks everywhere like this, and on completely useless places... and welding the subframes into the chassi, wtf?!
So for all those that question the safety. Japanese race a million times cleaner than americans, so they didnt have to worry about some idiot crashing into them going for a gap that didnt exist.
How can a race car have a cage like this ? seriously 1'' piping ?
seatbelt mounts ? there is zero f+cks for safety.
Cylinder 4 cooling mod 🤡 haha
JFC rip that cage out and start again. It's crap
Yea totally. Thats the plan once we get some momentum behind the car for sure
You should make new cage before you drive it! I saw at right side between seat and B-pilar was one joint not welded all the way around. I think therw can be many of those fake welds. That cage is dangerous if you crash.