Thank you this video is very helpful. Incase you don't know, the so called red pen is actually an NPN proximity sensor. The little movable part is just a hunk of metal. The proximity sensor (one type) requires that the sensor gets close to metal. your x and y axis probably has a proximity sensor instead of a limit switch. I purchased a proximity sensor on ebay they are super cheap. The benefit of the proximity sensor is there are no moving parts. so where you located your limit switch, I mounted a proximity sensor upside down. Then I tapped a 3/8" bolt into the frame . So now when I auto focus the table brings the bolt up to the proximity sensor. Its 100 percent accurate every time. if you take your finger on the tip of your red pen and push it in you will see its not smooth. It actually stops at different points where if you use my system which is your system modified so there are NO moving parts except for the table itself you will be quite satisfied. You are far advanced from me and this helps me find a use for my "auto focus" but ive always believed weather its hard drives or sensors stay away from mechanical movement rather stay all electronic much more accurate. if you like I can send you a picture
hay Russ Thank you for the valuable information you provide and for your wonderful effort. I have learned a lot from you by watching almost all the videos I have watched. I am new in this field. I bought a machine from China I started working directly and thanks back to you
Your videos are bar none the best. You care and it shows. I cant wait to get my 600x400 60watt machine with Ruida soon. I'll be fine tooth combing your videos to set her up when done :)
Learns so much on this video. THANKS !! On another note (Pun intended) am I the only one who just loves the sound of stepper motors accelerating and decelerating?
That's odd, my cheap Chinese laser has auto focus, with a switch on the laser head, yet does not have the micro switch next to the lead screw. I think I may change it so the head switch is next to the lead screw for the table up/down movement. Thanks again, Russ, for the great videos!
Hi Attach your email to another comment. I will respond and then you can tell me the problem. I get auto copied to my email so I will remove your comment from public view. Best wishes Russ
Hello It's really nice to share your experience I look at all your videos and it helped me a lot. I have a laser that works with Ruida and I have a little problem When I want to do several pieces and once at each job my laser doesn't recover at the starting point but +0.5 mm each time on Y axis As you have an idea why and can you help me solve the problem? In advance Thank you !!! Dragan
Hi Russ, I'm new to to laser cutting (my machine hasn't even arrived yet ;-) but I'm watching all of your video's. I'm up to where you use a laser pointer to set the mirrors. You offer to share the DXF file for the design, how do I contact you for that? Ron
Hey Russ, love your content. FYI the terms absolute origin and origin are not quite correct as you correctly pointed out. I would take absolute origin to mean current zero work coordinate Zero Position and origin would be the Machine Zero Position. A Machine Zero Position is the physical position an axis is referenced to. Theoretically this should not change unless the mechanical or electrical switch gets moved. It is just not termed correctly though most cnc machines would work this way. I agree with you that you don't want to purposely go back to the original zero point of the work coordinate after a reset. Bad things could happen.
Hey Russ, excellent videos as always, whereabout are you in London cause I'm in London also, I have a brand new laser which is not working, could really need a good advice. Cheers
Hi Jess 55miles NE of the big city. Too late for good advice , you've already bought it!!!! What's your issue? If you wish to add your email to another comment I'll answer and delete your comment Best wishes Russ
is it safe to engrave/cut leather, Dermatin , Faux leather, stone, glass, mdf ? thank you very much for your videos and helping. GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS
Hi Leather is a natural organic material and can be engraved safely. It produces dense white fumes and smell like burning flesh (which it is). The small stays on the product for days although wiping with a damp soapy cloth greatly reduces the problem. Dermatin (often called leatherette) and particularly faux leather are both man made products that can produce toxic fumes when heated. Even with good ventilation you and your machine may be at risk. Do some more research on these materials particularly the gases produced during burning Stone is a very wide term and could include marble slate , granite etc. They all engrave safely but again. good ventilation is required because often dust is created . Although not toxic, it is a bad idea to breath much of it and its abrasive nature will not be good for the bearings in your machine. Glass is different in that there are two distinct mechanisms involved with glass engraving. Very low power engraving produces micro melt pools on the glass surface. No material is lost. The second happens when you increase the power and then the glass gets damaged by a micro stone chip type of mechanisms where micro shards of glass are chipped away from the surface . Neither mechanism is dangerous or toxic. Although MDF is a man made product, it contains about 85% wood, it also contains water, paraffin wax and about 10% of a plastic binder called urea formaldehyde.. Burning that produces dense nasty fumes. It is not highly toxic and lots of people cut it (including me) safely, provided you have good extracion. Not wise to breath to many neat fumes. Best wishes Russ
Well, that's a lot of stuff to remember. I think a focus gauge is the better way to go and not deal with the crashes and mental backflips every time you do a new job (not to mention the inevitable crashes and collisions.
Hi Rob It has enabled me to automate my lens testing but It will all be put back to normal when finished because it could be a bit dodgy to choose a layer and forget that it has some Z movement left behind from previous use.. It has it's uses but not for auto focus. Best wishes Russ
Do you have a video comparing RDWorks to LightBurn? I seem to read that the consensus is that Lightburn is better software yet you are using RDWorks? Id be interested in your thoughts as to why you use that software?
Hi Ben Did you recieve my answer to your comment? I am just looking at my summary page and it says unanswered.. I have had a few answers sent to another dimension by Google. Best wishes Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, no I didn't receive an answer. All good, it was more a rhetorical question, suggesting to make a video comparing the two, if you hadnt done so already. Love your show, very enlightening.
@@ynnebbenny Hi Ben Thanks for replying. I answer lots of comments and I would guess that 3 to 5% go walkabout. So lets try again. I answered previously by saying .........Yes, I do have and use Lightburn. It is an amazing piece of work that began about 3 yers ago when a professional software writer and laser user decided to rewrite all the functions of RDWorks into a much smoother and user friendly interface. It has now progressed beyond a straight clone into something that has so many extra features. It handles text in an almost "Adobe Illustrator" way and it's graphc tools are way more powerful. I, along with a host of others, have helped debug various parts of the software. It is now a fully formed commercial product that is being developed to work with all sorts of controllers. If you do not have a copy then I urge you to downnload it and try it for 30 days free to see if you/your machine like it. There are lots of excellent tutorial videos at the Lightburn website and to be honest you need to get your feet under the "laser table" with the RDWorks , which , for free, is a great piece of software albeit clunky and poorly documented. Only then will you really appreciate what a great product Lightburn is. So, why don't I use it in my series? The answer is in the title of my series. Lightburn was not around when I started my series So on screen, I stay faithful to RDWorks because, great as Lightburn is, there are a few detailed setting functions for inveterate "fiddlers" like myself, that still need to be performed with RDWorks. Also it enables beginners to progress with the free software. Thanks again for your patience Best wishes Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks Russ, you have been very generous with your time with me. I appreciate being one of the 3-5% especially with such a LARGE following. Im consuming your videos two a night at the moment, with my wife occasionally walking in and rolling her eye when she hears what you are talking about. I'm glad to have found your videos BEFORE having bought one, you have saved me from a few mistakes already. I'm old school CNC but lasers are new to me. Having build a few CNC routers in the past I was tempted to do the same with a laser, however I have opted to buy my first one. Looking around the 8-10K AU mark. Highly considering a Cloudray machine. Sorry for the long windedness, I figured I owed you after your generous response. ;)
@@ynnebbenny Cloudray are selling this badged machine and it looks as though they have had the series built to their specification. Mr Ding at Cloudray has the highest quality standards and also understands what western quality control and customer satisfaction really means. I have not seen detail specification for all his machies but you will not go wrong buying from him. Their AK series looks like it has a leadscrewdriven X axis which is novel and a sign of high quality, Their 9000x600mm machine looks a great little machine. They also do the belt driven version as well. I have never cosidered belt drives with flexi teeth to be other than a 98% cnc solution but all the features I see about how the belts have been used on the Cloudray machines tells me these have been well thought out and designed to minimise the resonance shortcomings of the rubber belt drive system.. It all comes down to price but your Cloudray decision is a good one. Best wishes Russ
The tool was designed and supplied by Thinklaser and may be available for sale at a stupid price. In reality all you need is a cheap 6" steel rule from ebay to do the same job ie you are using it as a wide screw driver. see www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-12-OR-Both-Rule-Stainless-Steel-Ruler-Small-Large-Metric-Imperial-30cm/151996239722?var=&hash=item2363ae8f6a&enc=AQADAAAC8FjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVyfx2jTUyE2xcACamNkaJOtN0rhP5PMRUMkDovKIy%2BM2ELfot8%2BBWrrkZiWqqy7GNDmBIRSgAhd8cVeJ7M8rP6qKWrhoLtQ6GUBFZSEgP9R94zaFyT9N6f1zGjH9sAt9xcSqq9zI%2BB%2B3lviWVOd8%2BRwLk0pRpQTocyUkQ8%2BB%2Bp9km1bVYeXxZeRdm49KsRfp8O3sjWZklmw77PwUoCZaiBbVtTDWGBpRllvg2NqMYdjbTUJBIOkpsKjv%2FPlcLrVqrJOUB9MQDIwjeAw5cEZo%2FMt7%2BhTsHeYHIhqgTOoS67nQRRL7PpWzeqF9tRNMqWFfZPIQJim6TxaFfjZRxZ%2FUTrbVnN87zfVuCTaVVC%2BDEGDo7SX3%2Fl4noSGrZshdHqelPY6NhmtfU%2FoZtcHTMkkY3Dd7tOIM%2FB3yPjZwLDEI0NgW7cKzhNFoJ5gDnm1mNr0KM1tMEb8uJN64K102NAf2M9ZYAXhyb8Tk7IqFa%2F0HHQAxRLPuBDFEnokI6stnZBejBADBqkE36Jowpg03JFzKik8GP6KBExzcppIqfNtKO8Qg5fkBJ3dVk2vKAWJSWbWzsxuPWMO%2BjL6yY5OY8eQtm8zYafgavmURnUDSUps%2FcM2BIKspZGFmlXrWS5tY8SfEra5OFsp9%2BDMFscQIV7Qpeydd2DZXohaqASNYqQ%2BKINXoFX6jznu03P%2Fm7QUpMKB9hVV5AzTHlrWoxKgTMQ6UYP6ZXKQsAiRbPMvpw1K9uf4%2BRVTjWzbU63eZxLgGswb%2B585KsTeV9%2BdHj6MI2s3C4kFQm%2BwbwDFF9RBJ7AvD89xaHhdRwsXlJ477haGPp2MvJOKXtHD0NJPcIhlyULcvynPCdDAzjl%2Bj1FxB5F5%2FDrr%2BCkGK1jZnlFMoWAfkX5y7FCiVvRBp%2B98z%2FYmzbnglari8F9Rw7N9HmMxxT%2Fc7e83j7d6FbB%2BBWwf0YScACBHo9&checksum=151996239722eef4c23d50e641c497c6c55a85c1c901 Best wishes Russ
I loved your stuff Russ when you were on the china laser, as it related to myself and my machine, but you went coporate with think laser and it no longer, had the same buzz so i stopped watching your vids.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you this video is very helpful. Incase you don't know, the so called red pen is actually an NPN proximity sensor. The little movable part is just a hunk of metal. The proximity sensor (one type) requires that the sensor gets close to metal. your x and y axis probably has a proximity sensor instead of a limit switch. I purchased a proximity sensor on ebay they are super cheap. The benefit of the proximity sensor is there are no moving parts. so where you located your limit switch, I mounted a proximity sensor upside down. Then I tapped a 3/8" bolt into the frame . So now when I auto focus the table brings the bolt up to the proximity sensor. Its 100 percent accurate every time. if you take your finger on the tip of your red pen and push it in you will see its not smooth. It actually stops at different points where if you use my system which is your system modified so there are NO moving parts except for the table itself you will be quite satisfied. You are far advanced from me and this helps me find a use for my "auto focus" but ive always believed weather its hard drives or sensors stay away from mechanical movement rather stay all electronic much more accurate. if you like I can send you a picture
Far and away the most informative info around for lasers. Thank you so much for sharing.
hay Russ
Thank you for the valuable information you provide and for your wonderful effort. I have learned a lot from you by watching almost all the videos I have watched. I am new in this field. I bought a machine from China
I started working directly and thanks back to you
Welcome back Russ! Hope all is well. Very interesting session. Thanks for doin' it. I will put this to use on my system today!
Your videos are bar none the best. You care and it shows. I cant wait to get my 600x400 60watt machine with Ruida soon. I'll be fine tooth combing your videos to set her up when done :)
Learns so much on this video. THANKS !!
On another note (Pun intended) am I the only one who just loves the sound of stepper motors accelerating and decelerating?
That's odd, my cheap Chinese laser has auto focus, with a switch on the laser head, yet does not have the micro switch next to the lead screw.
I think I may change it so the head switch is next to the lead screw for the table up/down movement.
Thanks again, Russ, for the great videos!
Thank you Russ for sharing your good experience. I really hope you can help me. Cutting line on x axis is not straight anymore.
Hi
Attach your email to another comment. I will respond and then you can tell me the problem. I get auto copied to my email so I will remove your comment from public view.
Best wishes
Russ
Hello It's really nice to share your experience I look at all your videos and it helped me a lot.
I have a laser that works with Ruida and I have a little problem
When I want to do several pieces and once at each job my laser doesn't recover at the starting point but +0.5 mm each time on Y axis
As you have an idea why and can you help me solve the problem?
In advance Thank you !!!
Dragan
Hi Russ,
I'm new to to laser cutting (my machine hasn't even arrived yet ;-) but I'm watching all of your video's. I'm up to where you use a laser pointer to set the mirrors. You offer to share the DXF file for the design, how do I contact you for that?
Ron
Hey Russ, love your content. FYI the terms absolute origin and origin are not quite correct as you correctly pointed out. I would take absolute origin to mean current zero work coordinate Zero Position and origin would be the Machine Zero Position. A Machine Zero Position is the physical position an axis is referenced to. Theoretically this should not change unless the mechanical or electrical switch gets moved. It is just not termed correctly though most cnc machines would work this way. I agree with you that you don't want to purposely go back to the original zero point of the work coordinate after a reset. Bad things could happen.
Thanks Russ, another step further.
Hey Russ, excellent videos as always, whereabout are you in London cause I'm in London also, I have a brand new laser which is not working, could really need a good advice. Cheers
Hi Jess
55miles NE of the big city. Too late for good advice , you've already bought it!!!! What's your issue? If you wish to add your email to another comment I'll answer and delete your comment
Best wishes
Russ
is it safe to engrave/cut leather, Dermatin , Faux leather, stone, glass, mdf ? thank you very much for your videos and helping. GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS
Hi
Leather is a natural organic material and can be engraved safely. It produces dense white fumes and smell like burning flesh (which it is). The small stays on the product for days although wiping with a damp soapy cloth greatly reduces the problem. Dermatin (often called leatherette) and particularly faux leather are both man made products that can produce toxic fumes when heated. Even with good ventilation you and your machine may be at risk. Do some more research on these materials particularly the gases produced during burning
Stone is a very wide term and could include marble slate , granite etc. They all engrave safely but again. good ventilation is required because often dust is created . Although not toxic, it is a bad idea to breath much of it and its abrasive nature will not be good for the bearings in your machine. Glass is different in that there are two distinct mechanisms involved with glass engraving. Very low power engraving produces micro melt pools on the glass surface. No material is lost. The second happens when you increase the power and then the glass gets damaged by a micro stone chip type of mechanisms where micro shards of glass are chipped away from the surface . Neither mechanism is dangerous or toxic.
Although MDF is a man made product, it contains about 85% wood, it also contains water, paraffin wax and about 10% of a plastic binder called urea formaldehyde.. Burning that produces dense nasty fumes. It is not highly toxic and lots of people cut it (including me) safely, provided you have good extracion. Not wise to breath to many neat fumes.
Best wishes
Russ
Well, that's a lot of stuff to remember. I think a focus gauge is the better way to go and not deal with the crashes and mental backflips every time you do a new job (not to mention the inevitable crashes and collisions.
Hi Rob
It has enabled me to automate my lens testing but It will all be put back to normal when finished because it could be a bit dodgy to choose a layer and forget that it has some Z movement left behind from previous use..
It has it's uses but not for auto focus.
Best wishes
Russ
Hi, Russ your test file the line is 1mm?
if I go out of focus the engrave line change as we know, what size I make the test file?
Good points, thanks very much, Russ!
Do you have a video comparing RDWorks to LightBurn? I seem to read that the consensus is that Lightburn is better software yet you are using RDWorks? Id be interested in your thoughts as to why you use that software?
Hi Ben
Did you recieve my answer to your comment? I am just looking at my summary page and it says unanswered.. I have had a few answers sent to another dimension by Google.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ, no I didn't receive an answer. All good, it was more a rhetorical question, suggesting to make a video comparing the two, if you hadnt done so already. Love your show, very enlightening.
@@ynnebbenny
Hi Ben
Thanks for replying. I answer lots of comments and I would guess that 3 to 5% go walkabout. So lets try again.
I answered previously by saying .........Yes, I do have and use Lightburn. It is an amazing piece of work that began about 3 yers ago when a professional software writer and laser user decided to rewrite all the functions of RDWorks into a much smoother and user friendly interface. It has now progressed beyond a straight clone into something that has so many extra features. It handles text in an almost "Adobe Illustrator" way and it's graphc tools are way more powerful. I, along with a host of others, have helped debug various parts of the software. It is now a fully formed commercial product that is being developed to work with all sorts of controllers. If you do not have a copy then I urge you to downnload it and try it for 30 days free to see if you/your machine like it. There are lots of excellent tutorial videos at the Lightburn website and to be honest you need to get your feet under the "laser table" with the RDWorks , which , for free, is a great piece of software albeit clunky and poorly documented. Only then will you really appreciate what a great product Lightburn is. So, why don't I use it in my series? The answer is in the title of my series. Lightburn was not around when I started my series So on screen, I stay faithful to RDWorks because, great as Lightburn is, there are a few detailed setting functions for inveterate "fiddlers" like myself, that still need to be performed with RDWorks. Also it enables beginners to progress with the free software.
Thanks again for your patience
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks Russ, you have been very generous with your time with me. I appreciate being one of the 3-5% especially with such a LARGE following. Im consuming your videos two a night at the moment, with my wife occasionally walking in and rolling her eye when she hears what you are talking about. I'm glad to have found your videos BEFORE having bought one, you have saved me from a few mistakes already. I'm old school CNC but lasers are new to me. Having build a few CNC routers in the past I was tempted to do the same with a laser, however I have opted to buy my first one. Looking around the 8-10K AU mark. Highly considering a Cloudray machine. Sorry for the long windedness, I figured I owed you after your generous response. ;)
@@ynnebbenny
Cloudray are selling this badged machine and it looks as though they have had the series built to their specification. Mr Ding at Cloudray has the highest quality standards and also understands what western quality control and customer satisfaction really means. I have not seen detail specification for all his machies but you will not go wrong buying from him. Their AK series looks like it has a leadscrewdriven X axis which is novel and a sign of high quality, Their 9000x600mm machine looks a great little machine. They also do the belt driven version as well. I have never cosidered belt drives with flexi teeth to be other than a 98% cnc solution but all the features I see about how the belts have been used on the Cloudray machines tells me these have been well thought out and designed to minimise the resonance shortcomings of the rubber belt drive system.. It all comes down to price but your Cloudray decision is a good one.
Best wishes
Russ
You did an origin video a long while back so remaking it for the people who don't want to hunt your past vids?
Hi Russ. Nice to see you back. Very interesting video when did you change your name to Ross or is it for the tax man? Thanks James 🥃🥃👍
Hi James
Still Russ. If people call me Ross I don't correct them
Best wishes
Russ
Well done!
that was helpful..thank you.
think you ross
Hi Ross! What is that tool you used to screw in the lens? Where did you get that? Thank you!
The tool was designed and supplied by Thinklaser and may be available for sale at a stupid price. In reality all you need is a cheap 6" steel rule from ebay to do the same job ie you are using it as a wide screw driver.
see
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-12-OR-Both-Rule-Stainless-Steel-Ruler-Small-Large-Metric-Imperial-30cm/151996239722?var=&hash=item2363ae8f6a&enc=AQADAAAC8FjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVyfx2jTUyE2xcACamNkaJOtN0rhP5PMRUMkDovKIy%2BM2ELfot8%2BBWrrkZiWqqy7GNDmBIRSgAhd8cVeJ7M8rP6qKWrhoLtQ6GUBFZSEgP9R94zaFyT9N6f1zGjH9sAt9xcSqq9zI%2BB%2B3lviWVOd8%2BRwLk0pRpQTocyUkQ8%2BB%2Bp9km1bVYeXxZeRdm49KsRfp8O3sjWZklmw77PwUoCZaiBbVtTDWGBpRllvg2NqMYdjbTUJBIOkpsKjv%2FPlcLrVqrJOUB9MQDIwjeAw5cEZo%2FMt7%2BhTsHeYHIhqgTOoS67nQRRL7PpWzeqF9tRNMqWFfZPIQJim6TxaFfjZRxZ%2FUTrbVnN87zfVuCTaVVC%2BDEGDo7SX3%2Fl4noSGrZshdHqelPY6NhmtfU%2FoZtcHTMkkY3Dd7tOIM%2FB3yPjZwLDEI0NgW7cKzhNFoJ5gDnm1mNr0KM1tMEb8uJN64K102NAf2M9ZYAXhyb8Tk7IqFa%2F0HHQAxRLPuBDFEnokI6stnZBejBADBqkE36Jowpg03JFzKik8GP6KBExzcppIqfNtKO8Qg5fkBJ3dVk2vKAWJSWbWzsxuPWMO%2BjL6yY5OY8eQtm8zYafgavmURnUDSUps%2FcM2BIKspZGFmlXrWS5tY8SfEra5OFsp9%2BDMFscQIV7Qpeydd2DZXohaqASNYqQ%2BKINXoFX6jznu03P%2Fm7QUpMKB9hVV5AzTHlrWoxKgTMQ6UYP6ZXKQsAiRbPMvpw1K9uf4%2BRVTjWzbU63eZxLgGswb%2B585KsTeV9%2BdHj6MI2s3C4kFQm%2BwbwDFF9RBJ7AvD89xaHhdRwsXlJ477haGPp2MvJOKXtHD0NJPcIhlyULcvynPCdDAzjl%2Bj1FxB5F5%2FDrr%2BCkGK1jZnlFMoWAfkX5y7FCiVvRBp%2B98z%2FYmzbnglari8F9Rw7N9HmMxxT%2Fc7e83j7d6FbB%2BBWwf0YScACBHo9&checksum=151996239722eef4c23d50e641c497c6c55a85c1c901
Best wishes
Russ
I loved your stuff Russ when you were on the china laser, as it related to myself and my machine, but you went coporate with think laser and it no longer, had the same buzz so i stopped watching your vids.