I want to make something abundantly clear: This video is not, in any way, shape or form targeting any specific SCART cable maker. It's to my understanding that some of these "Boosted C-Sync" cables are no longer built this way. But that's beside the point. The fact is that there are quite a few of these out in the wild, and it's important to understand the problems that are occurring so that they're thoroughly understood so we can improve & resolve them.
My degree from school required a digital communication class and I was able to follow everything you said. Made me a little proud of my professor. He is a retired electrical engineer from the old IBM. One of the smartest guys I have ever met.
i really appreciate how open & free you are with your information & techniques, while also being thoughtful in how it's presented so as not to belittle or shame anyone. this is a special channel & i'm glad i found it.
I have no suggestions for your video's as you know like 10,000 times as much I do about this stuff. I just like watching your video's because I learn something new every single time (probably more information than I can process in one watch lol) I only wanted to post a thank you and that I enjoy your video's :)
My experience showed that Scart RGB cables from Retro Gaming Cables was soldered by amateurs. All ground pins were never used, hence we get humming and buzzing in games.
@@snesfan8935 I use their packapunch cables and have had a flawless time. The previous non-packapunch cables I used were usually fine, one gave trouble and with some communication between them they had no issue with me repairing it myself with the offer of a replacement if it didn't work.
Nice video. Thanks for all the informations. One questions though. On your schema, CSYNC is grounded with a resistor. Why didn't you ground the CSYNC signal into the scart end after the capacitor?
I legit thought something was wrong with what you were soldering when you said "Oh sh**!" Then I realized it was just your normal shtick and rejoiced... and then watched that part 10 more times. :)
Great video as always. I have things that need clarification about the cs# cables out there. This redesign should be used also with the sync strippers circuits using the lm11881, on the output cs# of the lm1881 correct? And to be properly made the stripper should also be on the console side of the cable?
Dude, do you think you can made a tutorial to teach us how to mod an EURO SCART CABLE (Like the original Nintendo one from Pal Consoles) to work as an US SCART CABLE that works with US consoles? This tutorial is needed, no one make it until now!!. I want to be able to connect the cable to my SCART/S-VIDEO/AV output selector, then again to my SCART RGB to HDMI adapter, then again to my HDMI capture card (to record in HDMI) and at the same time be able to play at my CRT TV with S-VIDEO if possible. That could be done? Using Sync of Luma (Sync from S-Video), the Scart cable can also carry S- Video at the same time than RGB? OF course my idea is the SCART/S-VIDEO/AV output selector will separate both signals as it does with my Sega Genesis with a Composite video as Sync cable (then again is just composite not S-video, as far i Know all the original PAL OEM SCART CABLES from video game consoles used composite as sync , isn it?)
I moded all my consoles to have scart out ports and bought a bunch of premium quality all shielded scart to scart cables. I couldn't be happier with this setup definitely worth the work.
@Voultar - I have at least 1 cable that contains a sync stripper. Can you comment on a sync stripper circuit where the composite signal is stripped out and only sync is left. Might be a good video to talk about which consoles need it in a Sony PVM setup and then in a Framemeister setup.
I have a cbox mvs and it uses 5 volt ttl straight from the jamma board. My question is will a good quality megadrive 1 cable from retrogamingcableuk with a 430ohm and 220uf on the scart cable be enough to keep my framemeister safe when hooking up to scart. I'm using svideo now and I have seen other channel recommend the cable for the upscaler. Is this ok? Or will there be ware and tear on my framemiester . Also I remember the uk cable maker saying that negative going towards console to keep and voltage from leaking that way
@Voultar, thank you so much for making this video! I have the same Genesis 'boosted' c-sync cable with the amp board inside. I want to do this same mod but have a question about the wiring. The amp board currently has two other input wires (orange + pink) in addition the c-sync wire, which I assume are the 5V and ground. Once I remove the amp, do I simply solder the ground wire to SCART head's pin #4, and the 5V wire to the leg of the resistor that is joining pins #8 and #16?
Can someone help? I recently modded my Atari 2600 with the RGB kit from Tim Worthington and I used a 9 pin din (Sega Genesis Model 2) and have the boosted sync scart cable. Now the video is very distorted with waves of lines, looking like sync is way off. I checked all my connections and all secure. both svideo and AV work great so its not the board. Do you think its the buffer chip inside or how its wired? Any help is appreciated
Voultar what is you opinion about electrolytic caps in video line? Is it OK to use them? (Knowing, that most of "consumer" elcaps are just total shit) ... Wouldnt be better to use tantalium?
Is there a way to know about your cable without opening it up? P.S. - I bought a Genesis model 1 SCART with stereo audio input cable from retro_console_accessories
Great video! I wouldn't of imagined that the TTL level of the sync could be dangerous given the double termination but it makes sense if the analog supply is at 1.8V. Does the XRGB have any input protection? A small series resistor - say 1k should work with the esd diodes to clamp the voltage to roughly 2 volts though.
Nope. It's just a 75 ohm termination that goes in an AC coupling capacitor. I'm not absolutely certain about what kind of biasing they have on that node. But I'd imagine it's a sync-tip based clamp. Playing with fire!
Cool - thanks for the very interesting info! It also says on the datasheet that optimal performance requires a 100 ohm series resistor on the HS_IN/CS_IN pin (63). Assuming double termination, that input pin sees a total of 137.5 ohms into 2.5V. That would significantly limit the amount of current and clamp the voltage to ~2V. This is assuming a fully DC-coupled signal path. The blocking cap would further shift the signal lower in voltage (since the signal mean is forced to ground). Anyways, I mention all this because I'm still somewhat skeptical of the claims (not by you) that the design is frying equipment. But having said that, fully agreed with everything you said! Definitely playing with fire and absolutely no sense in boosting what should be a 1V video signal to TTL levels.
Actually, on further reflection, the problem might actually not be due to too high of a voltage but rather too low of a voltage. Since the video signal is nominally high with short negative pulses, the mean signal seen at the input pin, after the blocking cap, should be slightly above ground. Negative TTL sync pulses will cause a ~ -2V spike which indeed would be bad. But again this is assuming the complete absence of input protection, which is somewhat hard to believe.
Your assessment would be accurate while the device is off. But there is biasing on the other side of the cap while the device is on. In order for the part to be functional, there has to be a biasing scheme on the other side of that cap in order for it to properly clamp the tip of the sync to the operating range of the part.
This is really a Public Service Announcement. Thanks. I have heard you and other mention this. I would hate to damage my equipment. Now I will open up all my cables and look for the boosted CSync cables. Is there a voltage meter I could use to test cables and the chain? Would this be a good project for beginners for soldering? I need to pickup a solder kit from scratch any suggestions? All my cables are from RCA so this could be a rude awaking. that and I have a Duo-R from your favorite ebay seller. and Thanks to Ren about the Flash carts I need to get new ones. Please keep covering more about what I might have that will damage my equipment.
Can you help me make a cable from Play Station 2 to a arcade monitor? But also have a guncon hook ups? So I play time crisis 2. My arcade monitor has both VGA and RGB inputs.
hello love your channel with all the mods to systems and games my friend from you tube built me a neo geo mvs for use on a tv and he also added rbg to scart connector but when a hooked up a scart cable with a hdmi adapter the screen goes grey and jumpy wondering if you could help me out thank you
Voultar, quick question. Should all the ground pins on the SCART head be connected together? Or is it better for them to be separate? I see schematics all over where the grounds are always connected together, so im unsure weather its best to do it or not?
Figured I should finger this out. You need a _really_ beefy wire for common ground. The reason is because of heat output from the cable. You have all these grounds producing electricity, and electricity produces heat, so combining ground means you're combining heat, and if the common wire is too thin you end up producing an inferior product creating interference which gets a little hot under the collar. Not quite a fire hazard, but not ideal either.
How do you manage the 75 Ohm impedance matching? RetroGamingCables made a post on his Genesis CSync cables, where he used a 470 Ohm resistor for attenuation, then a 220uF cap, and after the cap, 75 Ohm dummy load for matching impedance. My CRT tends to not care about sync impedance matching, but I'd rather have my cables be fully compliant to the video standards. Also I heard that proper CSync levels should be 300mV p-p. How true is that? Also seperate question. How do I properly attenuate the CSync from a SNES Mini? Right now I'm using a 680 Ohm series resistor, but I know that is completely wrong (Getting 2.37Vpp on my scope, so I just am not using it until I figure it out) and I would like to know the proper way of doing it without an RGB amp.
It's important to note that Composite Sync isn't a video transmission line. So matching your source impedance isn't very important in this scenario. I looked at the information on RetroGamingCable's page and unfortunately his measurements don't add up, nor does his model. As for the SNES, meh; Anything between 340-570Ω is purdy good!
Well I'll try the 470 Ohm resistor in the Genesis and see if that fixes my sync issue. Right now I'm following the CXA1145P datasheet (since that's what I have in my Genesis), and sync cuts out quite often. I don't have any sync issues with my SNES, but I do have jailbars (even on a CRT), so I wonder if it's because of the sync, although I tried sync on Luma and they're still there. I'll try out a 470 Ohm resistor in my SNES cable as well. Measured my SHVC-CPU-01 and getting some very weird results with my current cable (20Vpp). Granted, my scope is a very shittastic $25 eBay one, so it could be that.
If you're following the CXA1145, you're not doing it right. The Genesis doesn't output C-Sync from the 1145 to the DIN connector. C-Sync comes off of the Genesis' VDP, goes through a 2.2K pullup, and splits between the C-Sync INPUT of the 1145 and the DIN-8 on the back. If the Genesis did use the 1145's C-Sync output. It's already AC coupled. You'd just add a 75 ohm resistor and DC offset cap (220uF/470uF)
I rewired my Genesis to use the CSync output of the 1145 at the DIN connector. Probably should have mentioned that. Should I wire it back to stock and use your method? EDIT: Threw in a 440 Ohm series resistors in the CSync line of my SNES cable and getting ~2.2Vpp on my SHVC-CPU-01
Wish I had known about this, I assumed a certain Florida seller would do this. What troubles me is I asked if my cable (which I already purchased) is properly terminated to 75ohms/no mickey mouse booster shit but haven't gotten a response back. The current setup I use is a shinybow Sb-2840 SCART to component adapter on a crt but would like to capture with a XRGB mini sometime in the future. It seems her new listings mention what is in the cables, which should've been there in the first place. Is there any way to check other than opening it up?
Wait... you mention the C-sync signal being 'clipped', but it's already a two-level signal, what 'clipping' can occur? I would expect that you'd only see the rise and fall times of the signal increase--which seems like a good thing, but then why not use a logic buffer?
I have 3 cables from this same ebay seller and have white noise issues (basically there's a low humming when backgrounds with a lot of white are on the screen). Got no where with the seller and not sure if it's shit construction or just something I have to live with. For reference, I'm plugging into a framemeister.
Very nice. I have a question. I bought accidentally an av scart instead of a rgb one. There is a way to change it to rgb, by changing capacitors and stuff? Thanks!
OK. Cool. While I haven't had any issues with my PVM or Framemeister I didn't want to have to worry about replacing the cables in the near future. I also have definitely recommended them to my customers over aliexpress and other mass produced cables and I don't like giving bad information. Especially after two of them bought DUOs from Doujindance after I said I haven't seen anything bad about them.
As someone trying to break into the console modding game, it's sometimes hard to find supporting documentation or further explanation for what you state in your videos. I think I just don't know enough about the subject to be able to search for meaningful content. Having said that, I would love it if you did get into some of the more "boring" concepts behind what you're explaining in this video. I find your videos helpful, because they're essentially step-by-step instructions on how to accomplish the state goal of the video. Often, however, I find myself wondering how or why you came to the conclusions stated in your video. It would be fantastic to get a better understanding of this stuff from your (a highly experienced electrical engineer and console modder) perspective. If you don't have time for an in-depth video, could you provide links to good, trusted resources that can help people understand the science behind how all of this stuff works and what resources you use when doing your work?
Iirc she said it was a year(?) for gen 1 cables and for gen 2 cables there were two listings up until this week and only one of those had "boosted sync"
Honestly I don't care about scart I have a Extron I wanna know how to build my own RGB cables from scratch. Biggest problem I have is the property AV connectors.
Uh oh.... in other words, anything that Retroconsoleaccessories makes. Am hoping now that they are Retro Access that they do not still do this to their cables.
I can imagine that chinese manufactors of these RGB scart cables, has little to no knowledge of it and that they absolutely don't care about those problems they cause to those consumers.
L V you should teach school before you get too old. Share your gift. Thanks, I appreciate your work and also the comic relief. RGB Bob is so right about reddit containing idiots that ruin it for everybody. r/crtgaming sucks now- I'm done with that Whack Pack.
I realize this is a year old video. Yet can I ask? Are you Deadpool? As I just think we the viewers are nothing more than voices in your head. And you are just talking to yourself. All the while trying to defuse a bomb built into a console that was supposed to be a shitty Console Mod Rehab Project. Strangely...I could totally see that happen and I am scared I did.
I want to make something abundantly clear: This video is not, in any way, shape or form targeting any specific SCART cable maker. It's to my understanding that some of these "Boosted C-Sync" cables are no longer built this way. But that's beside the point. The fact is that there are quite a few of these out in the wild, and it's important to understand the problems that are occurring so that they're thoroughly understood so we can improve & resolve them.
My degree from school required a digital communication class and I was able to follow everything you said. Made me a little proud of my professor. He is a retired electrical engineer from the old IBM. One of the smartest guys I have ever met.
i really appreciate how open & free you are with your information & techniques, while also being thoughtful in how it's presented so as not to belittle or shame anyone. this is a special channel & i'm glad i found it.
I have no suggestions for your video's as you know like 10,000 times as much I do about this stuff. I just like watching your video's because I learn something new every single time (probably more information than I can process in one watch lol)
I only wanted to post a thank you and that I enjoy your video's :)
I felt like that old man on the Little Caesars commercial when I tried to read that "Fine Print"!
Great video keep up the good work :)
I know some of these words.
2/5 not enough hot glue
Informative and technical, thank you for sharing.
Would have been nice though to include video shots and examples "Before/after"
Excellent video. I look forward to more of them!
Thanks for sharing this info! Looks like I need to fix a cable this weekend.
Voultar thanks for filling everyone in on this info
Retro Gaming Cables are a safe bet for good quality scart cables., those of us who are RGB fanatics are probably already aware of this though.
My experience showed that Scart RGB cables from Retro Gaming Cables was soldered by amateurs. All ground pins were never used, hence we get humming and buzzing in games.
@@snesfan8935 I use their packapunch cables and have had a flawless time. The previous non-packapunch cables I used were usually fine, one gave trouble and with some communication between them they had no issue with me repairing it myself with the offer of a replacement if it didn't work.
I like the technical info and math. Praise Lord Voultar.
I enjoy your personality so much, Lord Voultar.
Great video! Time to open up my cables and make sure I don't have any like this.
Nice video. Thanks for all the informations.
One questions though. On your schema, CSYNC is grounded with a resistor. Why didn't you ground the CSYNC signal into the scart end after the capacitor?
I legit thought something was wrong with what you were soldering when you said "Oh sh**!" Then I realized it was just your normal shtick and rejoiced... and then watched that part 10 more times. :)
nice video. some scope shots of the sync signals before and after would also be cool.
I gained Knowledge +200 points from watching this video
Great video as always.
I have things that need clarification about the cs# cables out there.
This redesign should be used also with the sync strippers circuits using the lm11881, on the output cs# of the lm1881 correct?
And to be properly made the stripper should also be on the console side of the cable?
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'm gonna start inspecting all my cables (90% from RCA) and performing your sexy magic on them.
Dude, do you think you can made a tutorial to teach us how to mod an EURO SCART CABLE (Like the original Nintendo one from Pal Consoles) to work as an US SCART CABLE that works with US consoles? This tutorial is needed, no one make it until now!!. I want to be able to connect the cable to my SCART/S-VIDEO/AV output selector, then again to my SCART RGB to HDMI adapter, then again to my HDMI capture card (to record in HDMI) and at the same time be able to play at my CRT TV with S-VIDEO if possible. That could be done? Using Sync of Luma (Sync from S-Video), the Scart cable can also carry S- Video at the same time than RGB? OF course my idea is the SCART/S-VIDEO/AV output selector will separate both signals as it does with my Sega Genesis with a Composite video as Sync cable (then again is just composite not S-video, as far i Know all the original PAL OEM SCART CABLES from video game consoles used composite as sync , isn it?)
I moded all my consoles to have scart out ports and bought a bunch of premium quality all shielded scart to scart cables. I couldn't be happier with this setup definitely worth the work.
Great video brother.
Happy little clouds just up there.
@Voultar - I have at least 1 cable that contains a sync stripper. Can you comment on a sync stripper circuit where the composite signal is stripped out and only sync is left.
Might be a good video to talk about which consoles need it in a Sony PVM setup and then in a Framemeister setup.
I have a cbox mvs and it uses 5 volt ttl straight from the jamma board. My question is will a good quality megadrive 1 cable from retrogamingcableuk with a 430ohm and 220uf on the scart cable be enough to keep my framemeister safe when hooking up to scart. I'm using svideo now and I have seen other channel recommend the cable for the upscaler. Is this ok? Or will there be ware and tear on my framemiester . Also I remember the uk cable maker saying that negative going towards console to keep and voltage from leaking that way
@Voultar, thank you so much for making this video!
I have the same Genesis 'boosted' c-sync cable with the amp board inside. I want to do this same mod but have a question about the wiring.
The amp board currently has two other input wires (orange + pink) in addition the c-sync wire, which I assume are the 5V and ground. Once I remove the amp, do I simply solder the ground wire to SCART head's pin #4, and the 5V wire to the leg of the resistor that is joining pins #8 and #16?
Hey Barret,
More than likely, that's correct. But can you shoot me a picture of it on my Twitter so I can look it over for you?
Ok, pics sent. Thanks!
Also, does the 10uf capacitor on the c-sync line need to be 50V like you used here?
Can someone help? I recently modded my Atari 2600 with the RGB kit from Tim Worthington and I used a 9 pin din (Sega Genesis Model 2) and have the boosted sync scart cable. Now the video is very distorted with waves of lines, looking like sync is way off. I checked all my connections and all secure. both svideo and AV work great so its not the board. Do you think its the buffer chip inside or how its wired? Any help is appreciated
Voultar what is you opinion about electrolytic caps in video line? Is it OK to use them? (Knowing, that most of "consumer" elcaps are just total shit) ... Wouldnt be better to use tantalium?
Is there a way to know about your cable without opening it up?
P.S. - I bought a Genesis model 1 SCART with stereo audio input cable from retro_console_accessories
Great video! I wouldn't of imagined that the TTL level of the sync could be dangerous given the double termination but it makes sense if the analog supply is at 1.8V. Does the XRGB have any input protection? A small series resistor - say 1k should work with the esd diodes to clamp the voltage to roughly 2 volts though.
Nope. It's just a 75 ohm termination that goes in an AC coupling capacitor. I'm not absolutely certain about what kind of biasing they have on that node. But I'd imagine it's a sync-tip based clamp. Playing with fire!
Cool - thanks for the very interesting info! It also says on the datasheet that optimal performance requires a 100 ohm series resistor on the HS_IN/CS_IN pin (63). Assuming double termination, that input pin sees a total of 137.5 ohms into 2.5V. That would significantly limit the amount of current and clamp the voltage to ~2V. This is assuming a fully DC-coupled signal path.
The blocking cap would further shift the signal lower in voltage (since the signal mean is forced to ground). Anyways, I mention all this because I'm still somewhat skeptical of the claims (not by you) that the design is frying equipment.
But having said that, fully agreed with everything you said! Definitely playing with fire and absolutely no sense in boosting what should be a 1V video signal to TTL levels.
Actually, on further reflection, the problem might actually not be due to too high of a voltage but rather too low of a voltage. Since the video signal is nominally high with short negative pulses, the mean signal seen at the input pin, after the blocking cap, should be slightly above ground. Negative TTL sync pulses will cause a ~ -2V spike which indeed would be bad. But again this is assuming the complete absence of input protection, which is somewhat hard to believe.
Your assessment would be accurate while the device is off. But there is biasing on the other side of the cap while the device is on. In order for the part to be functional, there has to be a biasing scheme on the other side of that cap in order for it to properly clamp the tip of the sync to the operating range of the part.
Voultar right, so indeed with all these variables, not following spec is playing with fire.
This is really a Public Service Announcement. Thanks. I have heard you and other mention this. I would hate to damage my equipment. Now I will open up all my cables and look for the boosted CSync cables. Is there a voltage meter I could use to test cables and the chain? Would this be a good project for beginners for soldering? I need to pickup a solder kit from scratch any suggestions? All my cables are from RCA so this could be a rude awaking. that and I have a Duo-R from your favorite ebay seller. and Thanks to Ren about the Flash carts I need to get new ones. Please keep covering more about what I might have that will damage my equipment.
I would like to see a step by step taking apart desoldering resoldering all wires
Can you help me make a cable from Play Station 2 to a arcade monitor? But also have a guncon hook ups? So I play time crisis 2. My arcade monitor has both VGA and RGB inputs.
"How old are you now?! Air force killed it with HDMI." 🗨😏🛰🚀🛸
hello
love your channel with all the mods to systems and games my friend from you tube built me a neo geo mvs for use on a tv and he also added rbg to scart connector but when a hooked up a scart cable with a hdmi adapter the screen goes grey and jumpy wondering if you could help me out
thank you
what is the logic behind the amp? and why does it "seem" to work? Also. What about PVM/BVM? These beasts seem to have sync conditioners.
Voultar, quick question. Should all the ground pins on the SCART head be connected together? Or is it better for them to be separate? I see schematics all over where the grounds are always connected together, so im unsure weather its best to do it or not?
Figured I should finger this out. You need a _really_ beefy wire for common ground. The reason is because of heat output from the cable. You have all these grounds producing electricity, and electricity produces heat, so combining ground means you're combining heat, and if the common wire is too thin you end up producing an inferior product creating interference which gets a little hot under the collar. Not quite a fire hazard, but not ideal either.
So here's the deal, the SHART specs has separate returns for everything for a very good reason, But in the land of NTSC, who gives a fuck?
'You have all these grounds producing electricity, and electricity produces heat'
what
the
fuck
Would you recommend to do this scart cable improvement on a Saturn and PS scart cable with similar configuration?
Is it also harmful to use the THS7314 for RGB signals, like in an N64 RGB mod?
this is great thank you
How do you manage the 75 Ohm impedance matching? RetroGamingCables made a post on his Genesis CSync cables, where he used a 470 Ohm resistor for attenuation, then a 220uF cap, and after the cap, 75 Ohm dummy load for matching impedance. My CRT tends to not care about sync impedance matching, but I'd rather have my cables be fully compliant to the video standards.
Also I heard that proper CSync levels should be 300mV p-p. How true is that?
Also seperate question. How do I properly attenuate the CSync from a SNES Mini? Right now I'm using a 680 Ohm series resistor, but I know that is completely wrong (Getting 2.37Vpp on my scope, so I just am not using it until I figure it out) and I would like to know the proper way of doing it without an RGB amp.
It's important to note that Composite Sync isn't a video transmission line. So matching your source impedance isn't very important in this scenario. I looked at the information on RetroGamingCable's page and unfortunately his measurements don't add up, nor does his model.
As for the SNES, meh; Anything between 340-570Ω is purdy good!
Well I'll try the 470 Ohm resistor in the Genesis and see if that fixes my sync issue. Right now I'm following the CXA1145P datasheet (since that's what I have in my Genesis), and sync cuts out quite often.
I don't have any sync issues with my SNES, but I do have jailbars (even on a CRT), so I wonder if it's because of the sync, although I tried sync on Luma and they're still there. I'll try out a 470 Ohm resistor in my SNES cable as well. Measured my SHVC-CPU-01 and getting some very weird results with my current cable (20Vpp). Granted, my scope is a very shittastic $25 eBay one, so it could be that.
If you're following the CXA1145, you're not doing it right. The Genesis doesn't output C-Sync from the 1145 to the DIN connector. C-Sync comes off of the Genesis' VDP, goes through a 2.2K pullup, and splits between the C-Sync INPUT of the 1145 and the DIN-8 on the back.
If the Genesis did use the 1145's C-Sync output. It's already AC coupled. You'd just add a 75 ohm resistor and DC offset cap (220uF/470uF)
I rewired my Genesis to use the CSync output of the 1145 at the DIN connector. Probably should have mentioned that. Should I wire it back to stock and use your method?
EDIT: Threw in a 440 Ohm series resistors in the CSync line of my SNES cable and getting ~2.2Vpp on my SHVC-CPU-01
You're putting that under a load, right? Measure with the cable source terminated. (Plugged in)
What type of flux do you use? I hear you talk about no clean flux. Is there any brand you recommend?
Gonna bust my cable open this week.....
is the cap for DC separation?
Wish I had known about this, I assumed a certain Florida seller would do this. What troubles me is I asked if my cable (which I already purchased) is properly terminated to 75ohms/no mickey mouse booster shit but haven't gotten a response back.
The current setup I use is a shinybow Sb-2840 SCART to component adapter on a crt but would like to capture with a XRGB mini sometime in the future. It seems her new listings mention what is in the cables, which should've been there in the first place.
Is there any way to check other than opening it up?
You'll need to open her up and took a gander!
I prefer my Csync at 220V 🔌
Wait... you mention the C-sync signal being 'clipped', but it's already a two-level signal, what 'clipping' can occur? I would expect that you'd only see the rise and fall times of the signal increase--which seems like a good thing, but then why not use a logic buffer?
4:25 LOL M'Lord
Would like to see you make the ultimate Gameboy color some day so I can see how much better your solders look than mine 👀
I have 3 cables from this same ebay seller and have white noise issues (basically there's a low humming when backgrounds with a lot of white are on the screen). Got no where with the seller and not sure if it's shit construction or just something I have to live with. For reference, I'm plugging into a framemeister.
Coupling between sound and transmission lines. Inadequate shielding.
Are you still selling N64 RGB chips?
Very nice.
I have a question. I bought accidentally an av scart instead of a rgb one.
There is a way to change it to rgb, by changing capacitors and stuff? Thanks!
at 8:44 min voultar creates a flux capacitor
Has anyone noticed you sound like Ryan Reynolds as Deadpool?
SolarstrikeVG the first thing I thought
The first video I ever saw of him I said "Hey I didn't know Deadpool did mods."
Nah
I've bought so many cables from her. Did I make a mistake? She was hugely recommended,
Absolutely not.
OK. Cool. While I haven't had any issues with my PVM or Framemeister I didn't want to have to worry about replacing the cables in the near future.
I also have definitely recommended them to my customers over aliexpress and other mass produced cables and I don't like giving bad information. Especially after two of them bought DUOs from Doujindance after I said I haven't seen anything bad about them.
As someone trying to break into the console modding game, it's sometimes hard to find supporting documentation or further explanation for what you state in your videos. I think I just don't know enough about the subject to be able to search for meaningful content. Having said that, I would love it if you did get into some of the more "boring" concepts behind what you're explaining in this video. I find your videos helpful, because they're essentially step-by-step instructions on how to accomplish the state goal of the video. Often, however, I find myself wondering how or why you came to the conclusions stated in your video. It would be fantastic to get a better understanding of this stuff from your (a highly experienced electrical engineer and console modder) perspective. If you don't have time for an in-depth video, could you provide links to good, trusted resources that can help people understand the science behind how all of this stuff works and what resources you use when doing your work?
7:48 Will someone kill that pesky fly!
She claims that she hasn't sold cables like this in years. What's the date of manufacture on the cable in this video?
I bought a gen 2 cable in may that has this boosted sync.
My boosted CSYNC was purchased in Aug 2015...
Iirc she said it was a year(?) for gen 1 cables and for gen 2 cables there were two listings up until this week and only one of those had "boosted sync"
Honestly I don't care about scart I have a Extron I wanna know how to build my own RGB cables from scratch. Biggest problem I have is the property AV connectors.
buy the cheapest cables on ebay and just use the connector
I like you..
Uh oh.... in other words, anything that Retroconsoleaccessories makes. Am hoping now that they are Retro Access that they do not still do this to their cables.
I can imagine that chinese manufactors of these RGB scart cables, has little to no knowledge of it and that they absolutely don't care about those problems they cause to those consumers.
L V you should teach school before you get too old. Share your gift. Thanks, I appreciate your work and also the comic relief.
RGB Bob is so right about reddit containing idiots that ruin it for everybody. r/crtgaming sucks now- I'm done with that Whack Pack.
I'm not saying you are that old but time really does go fast. Haha.
Teaching actual people instead of a video is not for everyone.
C sync signal, c sync signal, c sync signal, c sync signal!!!
I realize this is a year old video. Yet can I ask? Are you Deadpool? As I just think we the viewers are nothing more than voices in your head. And you are just talking to yourself. All the while trying to defuse a bomb built into a console that was supposed to be a shitty Console Mod Rehab Project. Strangely...I could totally see that happen and I am scared I did.