@@UncleNacki would love to hear your thoughts / video on the today's t206 market. A lot has changed over the last few years and finding tobacco cards seem to be a lot tougher. Plus prices are all over the place.
@@azparadize2437 The T206 market has been on fire the last few years. Even though the T206 cards were the set that has the most cards that survived, because so many were printed, it still doesn't come close to the print runs of modern cards. 2022 Topps basic cards will end up having a print run of a million cards each. More collectors that have been getting back into the hobby, are from the junk wax era. So many of these collectors don't want to take the chance of another hobby crash. So lots of collectors from the 1980's and 1990's now collect tobacco cards. Population reports basically prove everything. With over 86 thousand 1989 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr cards graded just by PSA, then you look at a common T206 card with most being under 500 graded by PSA, and the price is about the same or a little less, and the T206's are 110+ years old, it's just a better investment. then when you get into the more rare backs, the population numbers can be under 20 cards with PSA and SGC combined. So there's more demand than supply for many of these cards, and that is causing the values to continue to rise. There's also a decent amount of collector groups that specialize mostly in the T206 set. So there's always buying and selling happening all the time. Prices have increased so quickly over the last few years, that it's possible prices may drop a bit. Kind of like a stock market correction. But even if this happened, it wouldn't hurt the T206 hobby. It would actually make it even stronger. Because a percentage of people have basically been priced out of the set. A few years ago, a common PSA 4 would average $50. Now that same card is $200 to $250. So it makes building the set more difficult. Rare backs are even crazier. when you could get a slightly more difficult back in a PSA 1 for $30 and now the same card is $200 to $300. Prices continue to amaze me. Currently I search for overlooked rarities and purchase them. I can't afford to purchase the cards I used to purchase 5 to 10 years ago. There's still plenty of cards always for sale, so building a 520 card set is always possible, if you have the money. It's a bit more difficult when it comes to the rare backs. Because there are more collectors than cards that exist. So many are locked up in collections. I'm asked on average, about 5 times a week if I'd be interested in selling or trading certain cards of mine. I always say no, unless I have duplicates or the ability to upgrade and sell my lower grade to help fund the higher grade. It stays fun, because your never finished collecting the set. Even if you do finish the set, you could upgrade, or even get into the more difficult backs. Or do something completely insane, and collect every front/back combination that exists. Thats how I collect the T206's.
@@UncleNacki Thank you! Great info and you confirm many of my thoughts. Hopefully you will make more videos soon. Your experience and expertise is extremely valuable. T206s are magical and I'm glad to be back in the search. I have 80 or so that I've collected over the years but now have more focus because of your videos. Thanks again!!
Thanks, yes, it's definitely blue ink. After spending much more time comparing the ink color and timeframe of when it would have been made, it matches up to the Piedmont 150 blue from 1909. Since this video, another collector found a third blue ink Old Mill. that one also matches the same print group of the first two cards. The third card found is Kid Elberfeld Portrait Washington. I haven't personally seen it but a few people I know have seen it and said it's identical to the first one and mine.
Amazing video bro, at 40:38 with the card that says Keating, that tripped me out cause that's Rube Manning, I have one with a Polar Bear back. Great info along with some great cards, take care.
Thanks, yeah, I guess someone wanted it to be a Ray Keating T206. I remember when I bought it, I knew it was a Manning card but the Keating name kept weirding me out.
Fantastic videos. I am a collector of PSA graded portraits without preference to back. Uncle Nacki provided tremendous information on backs and strategies for the many options for collecting the set and subsets. I like his thorough and methodical approach, and his pace of delivery. I am looking to start a pose subset with a Polar Bear back. I now know that there are a total of 250 different cards with a Polar Bear back. Uncle Nacki - where is the best place to find a Polar Bear checklist? I think PSA may have one on their registry page, but wanted to check with you on any other souces. Keep up the great work and look forward to additional videos.
Hi Dale, Thanks for watching my video's. A great place for beginners for checklists is t206resource.com and go to the checklists tab. The Polar Bear checklist is 100% accurate. There are a few minor errors throughout the website but it's still a great place to start. The second place which is for all prewar cards is net54baseball.com and I can be found there as Ronnie73. There's also a buy/sell/trade section for T206's and the prices are much better than ebay.
Hello ,this video is so cool...I've always wanted to have a t206 boston team set for my PC .how would I got about purchasing a set at the lowest price possible from a trusted seller
The first step would be to get a checklist of cards for your team. You can find that information at t206resource.com then join a trusted group of collectors like www.net54baseball.com which has a dedicated T206 section. It's pretty safe over there because so many members police the message board and if anything is questionable, it's dealt with right away. You can even ask others for references of a seller. The other great part is there's no fee's to buy, sell, or trade, and no sales tax. Plus there's a ton of information on all the old sets, especially the T206's. My user name over there is Ronnie73. I think during the sign up, it asks for references. As far as buying at the lowest price possible, there's many different card backs, so you'd want to stay with the most common and least expensive, which is Piedmont. You'd also want to start out with a lower grade card, which is a personal preference. I personally don't mind raw or graded cards that grade as a 1 or a 2. I just try to find a card with no writing, no paper loss on the front (very minor paper loss on the back is ok), no ripped or missing pieces, and no trimmed. That might sound like a lot, but for a Piedmont back card, there's probably a thousand of each card, so the right card does exist for your collection. Plus with the large amount of them, you can wait till the right one at the right price comes along. T206's with common backs are always available. Use eBay's sold listings to find out the price range a certain grade for a certain player sold for. This way, when one becomes available, you'll know if it's a good price or not. Take your time building the set. It's not a race, but a marathon. If money is not a problem, you could build a 520 card set in less than a week. That's why I tell everyone to wait for the right card and price to come along. That advice is a bit different when it comes to rare card backs. Because many cards are less than ten known, and most are locked up in master sets like mine. So, sometimes when a certain card front shows up with a certain card back, you almost have no limit as to what the card might sell for. When a Piedmont sells for $40 and the same exact card front shows up with a more rare back like Tolstoi, and you see the graded population reports combined, have a total of 2 cards, and this one is not graded, so it's a 3rd card, it could easily sell for $4000+ which is a hundred times the Piedmont price. Also, always remember, if you start out with nice clean lower grade common back cards and you buy them at a good price, later on, you can always sell for a small profit and either upgrade the card, or get one of the slightly more difficult backs. That's why I say to buy smart. So you never lose money. I read about people losing money all the time on T206's and I just can't figure out how and why. They must of bought the first things they saw and didn't research the market and prices. I've never taken a loss on a T206 and all my T206's have risen a minimum of 5x the original purchase price, and others have gone to 20x more. The more you research the set and learn about how the prices work when comparing the cards to their population reports, the better you will get at making smart purchases. To a point that you could literally flip cards a month after the purchase, and double your money. Then take that doubled amount, and do it again a month later. There's a few T206 guy's in the different internet and facebook groups, and thats a big part of what they do to help fund their main collecting goals. Hope that helps. Sorry if I repeated a few things or broke things down to the simplest explanations. Sometimes I say too much, and that get's some people more confused. But that's how I've always been. If I left anything out, or caused you to think of some other questions, just ask. I try to respond within a couple days. Glad to hear you liked the video. Thanks for watching. Ron
Hi Jack, you can ask me any questions you have. You can also go to this website to learn more on different T206 topics. www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=237816
Jack Lorenz The Tubby Spencer is the most difficult of the 11 cards from the “Elite” group. In the past year though, I’ve seen 3 of them that were new finds. Lower average grades have been selling in the $1000-$3000 range. Dahlen Boston is probably the second most difficult out of the 11.
Hi, thanks for the quick response, I have a Tubby Spencer 350 back in a Topps buyback frame, this is very exciting, I have over 300 Topps buyback cards. I love your videos. Jack.
Jack Lorenz that’s a great find!! I have a Dahlen 350 Boston in a Buy Back. In 2001 when these cards were being purchased for the 2002 release, the “Elite” cards were not known. It wasn’t until a few years later that they were being noticed. At that time, only 8 cards were known and a few others but those others ended up being more common than once thought. A couple years after that, the other 3 were found out by taking online surveys from collectors of the set.
Great cards and video. Just found out I have a Piedmont 350 elite 11 card, it probably can get a PSA 3 how much would that be worth? Thanks for this series! In going to whatch it all
Value would depend on the player. Some cards are more common than others. Nobody really knows why. Maybe certain cards were doubled up on a sheet, making them twice as likely to find them.
The T206 Honus Wagner was only meant to have Sweet Caporal 150 backs, and came with either a Factory 25 or 30 on them. Some people believe the Sweet Caporal 150 backs were the first cards printed in 1909 because any Honus Wagner cards with a Piedmont 150 back were only found hand cut. Some people think he wanted his card pulled from the set because he didn't want kids buying tobacco products for his card. Others think it was a money thing and he wanted more in his contract, but before the price was agreed, they started printing with his card. A few think there was a printing plate issue. Either way, a few of his cards leaked into Sweet Caporal packs, and the few sheets of Piedmonts that were printed, were removed before going into packs. So, some printing employees most likely pocketed a few hand cut Piedmont Honus Wagners, and thats how there are a few out there today. All Piedmonts that were hand cut and leaked, should only grade Authentic by PSA, SGC, and the others. A couple were numerically graded in error. I hope this was the information you were asking about. If not, just post another message, or any other T206 questions. Thank you for viewing my video.
Hi Rob, you can usually get many lower grade T206's for $20 each. I would say, join net54baseball.com and Tobacco Row on Facebook. Many sales are done on both websites and prices are very fair and everything is real. When something is posted that's questionable, everyone responds to the post. I see many T206's listed at $20 or even under. One just sold for $18 on Tobacco Row. These are usually ungraded cards and you assemble the collection in 15 pocket binder pages. The cards regardless of condition look incredible when in binder pages. Best advice I can give is, don't over pay. If the price is not where it needs to be, wait for the next one. Keep track of what the cards sell for and use that as a reference for when you are ready to buy the same card at a later time.
Great cards and info Backs are definitely the biggest gap in my t206 knowledge That blue Old Mill is super interesting, I have seen the Ed Walsh How many total t206 do you think that you have? I look forward to your future t206 videos
Thanks for viewing my video. I will be having a video on my Blue Old Mill in the next day or two. I'm nearing 2000 different front/back combinations and I think 9 away from the 524 card set.
great video. i'm just learning about the T206 Set. i've been collecting for 41 years and never looked into the T206 collection. are all your T206 cards in raw format? is it ok to buy raw? i worry about the authenticity of the card.
Thanks, I started collecting T206's 10 years ago when I was 38. I've been collecting cards since I was 6. I stayed away from all pre war cards because when I was younger, there really wasn't much out there to learn about the cards. Plus there were always a bunch of old guys at those tables at shows back in the 80's and 90's lol. 20 percent of my T206's are ungraded, 40 percent are PSA and 40 percent are SGC. Authenticity can be an issue with these cards. Luckily it's still fairly simple to tell real from fake. A few things to look at are the font and color on the front of the cards for the name. Second would be the right color ink on the back advertisement. Third would be a front/back combination that exists. Some will take the front of one card and the back of another, and glue them together. Other things to look for is discoloration of the front and back from artificial aging and blurry ink. After you have a few real ones in you hand, it's fairly easy to tell. Also, most commons are not faked but cards like Ty Cobb and Honus Wagner are, because of their higher values. There's a couple groups online and on Facebook that can also help when your not sure about a card being the real deal. It's also much safer to make purchases within these groups because anyone trying to sell fake cards are banned for life and the listings are basically policed by everyone. If you haven't already, join net54baseball.com There's a lot of information there and a buy/sell/trade section that's free and no sales tax. you can find me there as Ronnie73. If you have any other questions, just post them. I try to get back to everyone within a couple days. Ron
I started collecting T206's in 2010. Every day I regret that I was afraid to interact with the T206 dealers in the mid 1980's when I started collecting cards. I felt like you needed to be a certain age to collect them.
Hey there bud. Saw your mail submission on Jab's family. Glad to have a vintage learning resource on the sub list now. Looking forward to going thru your videos. I sub to all of Jab's channel shoutouts, love to ve able to keep the hobby alive bud. Come check out my neck of the woods sometime if ya get a spare minute.
I have an old mill card of Gavvy Cravath with what appears to be blue ink on the back. Do you have an email address? I have a scan of the card. It would be interesting to see what you think.
Hi, So far 3 blue ink Old Mills have been found and all are from the "Print Group One" list of cards. Cravath is from Print Group Two. So either they made the same mistake twice which is unlikely but not impossible, or you have one of the common reprints that were printed in many different colors for all advertisement backs. You can email me scans at unclenacki@aol.com
@@UncleNacki I'll take your word for it. It's not a reprint, but perhaps the ink has just faded to the point where it doesn't look black anymore. I compared it to a piedmont back, and it's definitely darker than piedmont blue.
Love all the Tobacco cards and am learning about all the different backs and variations. Keep explaining all about the variations and combinations. LOVE IT!!! I collect this set for the history and the fun! I have a few videos up, check them out if you have a chance. #VintageForeva
Great info! Lot of the SC factory 25 backs are sneaky tough.
A needle in a haystack in terms of truly informative T206 information. Great job!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. If you ever have any questions about the T206 set, just ask. I try to respond within a couple days.
@@UncleNacki would love to hear your thoughts / video on the today's t206 market. A lot has changed over the last few years and finding tobacco cards seem to be a lot tougher. Plus prices are all over the place.
@@azparadize2437 The T206 market has been on fire the last few years. Even though the T206 cards were the set that has the most cards that survived, because so many were printed, it still doesn't come close to the print runs of modern cards. 2022 Topps basic cards will end up having a print run of a million cards each. More collectors that have been getting back into the hobby, are from the junk wax era. So many of these collectors don't want to take the chance of another hobby crash. So lots of collectors from the 1980's and 1990's now collect tobacco cards. Population reports basically prove everything. With over 86 thousand 1989 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr cards graded just by PSA, then you look at a common T206 card with most being under 500 graded by PSA, and the price is about the same or a little less, and the T206's are 110+ years old, it's just a better investment. then when you get into the more rare backs, the population numbers can be under 20 cards with PSA and SGC combined. So there's more demand than supply for many of these cards, and that is causing the values to continue to rise. There's also a decent amount of collector groups that specialize mostly in the T206 set. So there's always buying and selling happening all the time. Prices have increased so quickly over the last few years, that it's possible prices may drop a bit. Kind of like a stock market correction. But even if this happened, it wouldn't hurt the T206 hobby. It would actually make it even stronger. Because a percentage of people have basically been priced out of the set. A few years ago, a common PSA 4 would average $50. Now that same card is $200 to $250. So it makes building the set more difficult. Rare backs are even crazier. when you could get a slightly more difficult back in a PSA 1 for $30 and now the same card is $200 to $300. Prices continue to amaze me. Currently I search for overlooked rarities and purchase them. I can't afford to purchase the cards I used to purchase 5 to 10 years ago. There's still plenty of cards always for sale, so building a 520 card set is always possible, if you have the money. It's a bit more difficult when it comes to the rare backs. Because there are more collectors than cards that exist. So many are locked up in collections. I'm asked on average, about 5 times a week if I'd be interested in selling or trading certain cards of mine. I always say no, unless I have duplicates or the ability to upgrade and sell my lower grade to help fund the higher grade. It stays fun, because your never finished collecting the set. Even if you do finish the set, you could upgrade, or even get into the more difficult backs. Or do something completely insane, and collect every front/back combination that exists. Thats how I collect the T206's.
@@UncleNacki Thank you! Great info and you confirm many of my thoughts. Hopefully you will make more videos soon. Your experience and expertise is extremely valuable. T206s are magical and I'm glad to be back in the search. I have 80 or so that I've collected over the years but now have more focus because of your videos. Thanks again!!
Great video. Tons of knowledge. You can see the blue ink when you show it up close.
Thanks, yes, it's definitely blue ink. After spending much more time comparing the ink color and timeframe of when it would have been made, it matches up to the Piedmont 150 blue from 1909. Since this video, another collector found a third blue ink Old Mill. that one also matches the same print group of the first two cards. The third card found is Kid Elberfeld Portrait Washington. I haven't personally seen it but a few people I know have seen it and said it's identical to the first one and mine.
Great info! Thanks for the knowledge you have passed on.
LOVED THE VIDEO!!!
Amazing video bro, at 40:38 with the card that says Keating, that tripped me out cause that's Rube Manning, I have one with a Polar Bear back. Great info along with some great cards, take care.
Thanks, yeah, I guess someone wanted it to be a Ray Keating T206. I remember when I bought it, I knew it was a Manning card but the Keating name kept weirding me out.
Fantastic videos. I am a collector of PSA graded portraits without preference to back. Uncle Nacki provided tremendous information on backs and strategies for the many options for collecting the set and subsets. I like his thorough and methodical approach, and his pace of delivery. I am looking to start a pose subset with a Polar Bear back. I now know that there are a total of 250 different cards with a Polar Bear back. Uncle Nacki - where is the best place to find a Polar Bear checklist? I think PSA may have one on their registry page, but wanted to check with you on any other souces. Keep up the great work and look forward to additional videos.
Hi Dale, Thanks for watching my video's. A great place for beginners for checklists is t206resource.com and go to the checklists tab. The Polar Bear checklist is 100% accurate. There are a few minor errors throughout the website but it's still a great place to start. The second place which is for all prewar cards is net54baseball.com and I can be found there as Ronnie73. There's also a buy/sell/trade section for T206's and the prices are much better than ebay.
@@UncleNacki Hi again. Yes, I found the T206resource website after I sent my email to you. And, I then found the checklist. Thanks.
Thank you for a terrific video ,,i own 200 different t206s ..best video on you tube
Great information. Amazing cards.
Thanks for watching!!
Been working on putting a set together for about a year now. Almost half way
Hello ,this video is so cool...I've always wanted to have a t206 boston team set for my PC .how would I got about purchasing a set at the lowest price possible from a trusted seller
The first step would be to get a checklist of cards for your team. You can find that information at t206resource.com then join a trusted group of collectors like www.net54baseball.com which has a dedicated T206 section. It's pretty safe over there because so many members police the message board and if anything is questionable, it's dealt with right away. You can even ask others for references of a seller. The other great part is there's no fee's to buy, sell, or trade, and no sales tax. Plus there's a ton of information on all the old sets, especially the T206's. My user name over there is Ronnie73. I think during the sign up, it asks for references. As far as buying at the lowest price possible, there's many different card backs, so you'd want to stay with the most common and least expensive, which is Piedmont. You'd also want to start out with a lower grade card, which is a personal preference. I personally don't mind raw or graded cards that grade as a 1 or a 2. I just try to find a card with no writing, no paper loss on the front (very minor paper loss on the back is ok), no ripped or missing pieces, and no trimmed. That might sound like a lot, but for a Piedmont back card, there's probably a thousand of each card, so the right card does exist for your collection. Plus with the large amount of them, you can wait till the right one at the right price comes along. T206's with common backs are always available. Use eBay's sold listings to find out the price range a certain grade for a certain player sold for. This way, when one becomes available, you'll know if it's a good price or not. Take your time building the set. It's not a race, but a marathon. If money is not a problem, you could build a 520 card set in less than a week. That's why I tell everyone to wait for the right card and price to come along. That advice is a bit different when it comes to rare card backs. Because many cards are less than ten known, and most are locked up in master sets like mine. So, sometimes when a certain card front shows up with a certain card back, you almost have no limit as to what the card might sell for. When a Piedmont sells for $40 and the same exact card front shows up with a more rare back like Tolstoi, and you see the graded population reports combined, have a total of 2 cards, and this one is not graded, so it's a 3rd card, it could easily sell for $4000+ which is a hundred times the Piedmont price. Also, always remember, if you start out with nice clean lower grade common back cards and you buy them at a good price, later on, you can always sell for a small profit and either upgrade the card, or get one of the slightly more difficult backs. That's why I say to buy smart. So you never lose money. I read about people losing money all the time on T206's and I just can't figure out how and why. They must of bought the first things they saw and didn't research the market and prices. I've never taken a loss on a T206 and all my T206's have risen a minimum of 5x the original purchase price, and others have gone to 20x more. The more you research the set and learn about how the prices work when comparing the cards to their population reports, the better you will get at making smart purchases. To a point that you could literally flip cards a month after the purchase, and double your money. Then take that doubled amount, and do it again a month later. There's a few T206 guy's in the different internet and facebook groups, and thats a big part of what they do to help fund their main collecting goals. Hope that helps. Sorry if I repeated a few things or broke things down to the simplest explanations. Sometimes I say too much, and that get's some people more confused. But that's how I've always been. If I left anything out, or caused you to think of some other questions, just ask. I try to respond within a couple days. Glad to hear you liked the video. Thanks for watching. Ron
I'm very interested in the elite eleven, how can I find out more about these rare cards, nice video.
Hi Jack, you can ask me any questions you have. You can also go to this website to learn more on different T206 topics. www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=237816
Hi, I can't seem to find any information on the tubby Spenser 350 card, I see you spend some time talking about it. Is it really rare? Thanks Jack
Jack Lorenz The Tubby Spencer is the most difficult of the 11 cards from the “Elite” group. In the past year though, I’ve seen 3 of them that were new finds. Lower average grades have been selling in the $1000-$3000 range. Dahlen Boston is probably the second most difficult out of the 11.
Hi, thanks for the quick response, I have a Tubby Spencer 350 back in a Topps buyback frame, this is very exciting, I have over 300 Topps buyback cards. I love your videos. Jack.
Jack Lorenz that’s a great find!! I have a Dahlen 350 Boston in a Buy Back. In 2001 when these cards were being purchased for the 2002 release, the “Elite” cards were not known. It wasn’t until a few years later that they were being noticed. At that time, only 8 cards were known and a few others but those others ended up being more common than once thought. A couple years after that, the other 3 were found out by taking online surveys from collectors of the set.
Great cards and video. Just found out I have a Piedmont 350 elite 11 card, it probably can get a PSA 3 how much would that be worth? Thanks for this series! In going to whatch it all
Value would depend on the player. Some cards are more common than others. Nobody really knows why. Maybe certain cards were doubled up on a sheet, making them twice as likely to find them.
whats the difference between a Honus Wagner, t206, with a Blue Piedmont back,against the red-sweet caporal?! thanks.
The T206 Honus Wagner was only meant to have Sweet Caporal 150 backs, and came with either a Factory 25 or 30 on them. Some people believe the Sweet Caporal 150 backs were the first cards printed in 1909 because any Honus Wagner cards with a Piedmont 150 back were only found hand cut. Some people think he wanted his card pulled from the set because he didn't want kids buying tobacco products for his card. Others think it was a money thing and he wanted more in his contract, but before the price was agreed, they started printing with his card. A few think there was a printing plate issue. Either way, a few of his cards leaked into Sweet Caporal packs, and the few sheets of Piedmonts that were printed, were removed before going into packs. So, some printing employees most likely pocketed a few hand cut Piedmont Honus Wagners, and thats how there are a few out there today. All Piedmonts that were hand cut and leaked, should only grade Authentic by PSA, SGC, and the others. A couple were numerically graded in error. I hope this was the information you were asking about. If not, just post another message, or any other T206 questions. Thank you for viewing my video.
Re watched this and made me want to get into collecting t206 is there any advice you can give to start out. My budget would be super small single dad.
Hi Rob, you can usually get many lower grade T206's for $20 each. I would say, join net54baseball.com and Tobacco Row on Facebook. Many sales are done on both websites and prices are very fair and everything is real. When something is posted that's questionable, everyone responds to the post. I see many T206's listed at $20 or even under. One just sold for $18 on Tobacco Row. These are usually ungraded cards and you assemble the collection in 15 pocket binder pages. The cards regardless of condition look incredible when in binder pages. Best advice I can give is, don't over pay. If the price is not where it needs to be, wait for the next one. Keep track of what the cards sell for and use that as a reference for when you are ready to buy the same card at a later time.
Great cards and info
Backs are definitely the biggest gap in my t206 knowledge
That blue Old Mill is super interesting, I have seen the Ed Walsh
How many total t206 do you think that you have?
I look forward to your future t206 videos
Thanks for viewing my video. I will be having a video on my Blue Old Mill in the next day or two. I'm nearing 2000 different front/back combinations and I think 9 away from the 524 card set.
@@UncleNacki 2000 is incredible! I would love to see some of your rarest/favorite
I'm at just under 200 right now
Just found your channel great content
great video. i'm just learning about the T206 Set. i've been collecting for 41 years and never looked into the T206 collection. are all your T206 cards in raw format? is it ok to buy raw? i worry about the authenticity of the card.
Thanks, I started collecting T206's 10 years ago when I was 38. I've been collecting cards since I was 6. I stayed away from all pre war cards because when I was younger, there really wasn't much out there to learn about the cards. Plus there were always a bunch of old guys at those tables at shows back in the 80's and 90's lol. 20 percent of my T206's are ungraded, 40 percent are PSA and 40 percent are SGC. Authenticity can be an issue with these cards. Luckily it's still fairly simple to tell real from fake. A few things to look at are the font and color on the front of the cards for the name. Second would be the right color ink on the back advertisement. Third would be a front/back combination that exists. Some will take the front of one card and the back of another, and glue them together. Other things to look for is discoloration of the front and back from artificial aging and blurry ink. After you have a few real ones in you hand, it's fairly easy to tell. Also, most commons are not faked but cards like Ty Cobb and Honus Wagner are, because of their higher values. There's a couple groups online and on Facebook that can also help when your not sure about a card being the real deal. It's also much safer to make purchases within these groups because anyone trying to sell fake cards are banned for life and the listings are basically policed by everyone. If you haven't already, join net54baseball.com There's a lot of information there and a buy/sell/trade section that's free and no sales tax. you can find me there as Ronnie73. If you have any other questions, just post them. I try to get back to everyone within a couple days. Ron
@@UncleNacki Thanks ron for the information.
you have an incredible collection and your knowledge of this set is pretty amazing! how long have you been building this set?
I started collecting T206's in 2010. Every day I regret that I was afraid to interact with the T206 dealers in the mid 1980's when I started collecting cards. I felt like you needed to be a certain age to collect them.
Great video bud.
Jabs family told me to sub since you sent him 2 Reggie Jackson rookie cards
Thanks for the sub!! I can only take credit for one of the Reggie's. The first one that was opened, was sent in from a different viewer.
Thats a nice set
Hey there bud. Saw your mail submission on Jab's family. Glad to have a vintage learning resource on the sub list now. Looking forward to going thru your videos. I sub to all of Jab's channel shoutouts, love to ve able to keep the hobby alive bud. Come check out my neck of the woods sometime if ya get a spare minute.
Thanks for subscribing!! I will check out your channel.
I have an old mill card of Gavvy Cravath with what appears to be blue ink on the back.
Do you have an email address? I have a scan of the card. It would be interesting to see what you think.
Hi, So far 3 blue ink Old Mills have been found and all are from the "Print Group One" list of cards. Cravath is from Print Group Two. So either they made the same mistake twice which is unlikely but not impossible, or you have one of the common reprints that were printed in many different colors for all advertisement backs. You can email me scans at unclenacki@aol.com
@@UncleNacki I'll take your word for it. It's not a reprint, but perhaps the ink has just faded to the point where it doesn't look black anymore. I compared it to a piedmont back, and it's definitely darker than piedmont blue.
Love all the Tobacco cards and am learning about all the different backs and variations. Keep explaining all about the variations and combinations. LOVE IT!!! I collect this set for the history and the fun! I have a few videos up, check them out if you have a chance. #VintageForeva
Thanks Joey!! I'm already subscribed to you and plan on checking out your videos.
Hey, found your channel and just subbed. thanks for the t206 info...I think you would enjoy the channels dead guy cardboard and nuf ced cards.....
Thanks Rob. I'm familiar with Dead Guy Cardboard but I'll have to look the other one up.
@@UncleNacki your welcome....if you have the chance to look at my channel also, it would be greatly appreciated!