to get a landscape totally in focus, one want to take several pictures to stitch them together in photoshop to get focus overall. But how to combine this with bracketing? Create bracketing photo pr focus? hope u understand.. it get to be alot of photos if so
Do you find the HDR bracketing necessary on modern cameras? With an A7R3 for instance, I don't notice any discernible benefit from HDR bracketing compared to my camera's native dynamic range.
1 how can the 3 image hdr be merged, the water is moving 2 same problem, how can the pano stitched when the water and maybe the sky moving between shots??
WOW - what an excellent and brief explanation !!!! One question : I noticed that having set bracketing you still pressed the shutter release 3 times - is this simply because you used a shutter release cable ?
Thanks so much for the kind words! Yes. Many cameras need you to either trigger the shutter for each exposure, or keep your finger on the shutter button. Using the remote, you need to trigger each one individually.
@@ppmagazine Thanks for that - my remote trigger takes 3 with 1 press, now I now what to expect when i use a cable - sorry for being a bit dim on this :)
Pretty hard to avoid while the sun is out, or with some other harsh light sources. You can edit it out if you really want. I think it fine in this case.
manual mode, cover sun side with your hand + little crop or take more exposures where you cover the sun and layer mask the photo later, not the 100% result but can be still nice
At 100 mm focal length on the GH5 it takes 36 images to equal a standard 50 mm lens on a full-frame camera photo. This means that for a 50mm Full frame photo equivalency X Size 39.601 degrees Y Size 26.993 degrees You are achieving approximately a 720 megapixel image. Unfortunately for a price of about one and a half stops less dynamic range than a full frame sensor.
1. Why would you use Aperture Priority (or anything '-Priority') ..... if you're not fully manual, your camera will adjust itself for each segment of the pano, depending on the scene in front of the lens..... and that could result in very different EVs (in this case, shutter speeds), which could change the light on the scene. e.g. if there's a segment or two which has lower mountains, you'll get more sky..... more sky will mean and different exposure. 2. For thee same reason, go with a fixed ISO and a fixed White Balance. 3. "Work out where your Nodal Point is"..... how? 4. Lining up with the Nodal Point.... my camera doesn't have the same bit of red string as yours. 5. Lens choice?
This video is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
Wow, this is awesome. I thought Panorama's were the way to go, but this just ups the game completely.
to get a landscape totally in focus, one want to take several pictures to stitch them together in photoshop to get focus overall. But how to combine this with bracketing? Create bracketing photo pr focus? hope u understand.. it get to be alot of photos if so
Do you find the HDR bracketing necessary on modern cameras? With an A7R3 for instance, I don't notice any discernible benefit from HDR bracketing compared to my camera's native dynamic range.
1 how can the 3 image hdr be merged, the water is moving
2 same problem, how can the pano stitched when the water and maybe the sky moving between shots??
WOW - what an excellent and brief explanation !!!! One question : I noticed that having set bracketing you still pressed the shutter release 3 times - is this simply because you used a shutter release cable ?
Thanks so much for the kind words! Yes. Many cameras need you to either trigger the shutter for each exposure, or keep your finger on the shutter button. Using the remote, you need to trigger each one individually.
@@ppmagazine Thanks for that - my remote trigger takes 3 with 1 press, now I now what to expect when i use a cable - sorry for being a bit dim on this :)
Good bro
Thanks!!
What about the big lense flare?
Pretty hard to avoid while the sun is out, or with some other harsh light sources. You can edit it out if you really want. I think it fine in this case.
manual mode, cover sun side with your hand + little crop or take more exposures where you cover the sun and layer mask the photo later, not the 100% result but can be still nice
At 100 mm focal length on the GH5 it takes 36 images to equal a standard 50 mm lens on a full-frame camera photo. This means that for a 50mm Full frame photo equivalency
X Size 39.601 degrees
Y Size 26.993 degrees
You are achieving approximately a 720 megapixel image. Unfortunately for a price of about one and a half stops less dynamic range than a full frame sensor.
1. Why would you use Aperture Priority (or anything '-Priority') ..... if you're not fully manual, your camera will adjust itself for each segment of the pano, depending on the scene in front of the lens..... and that could result in very different EVs (in this case, shutter speeds), which could change the light on the scene. e.g. if there's a segment or two which has lower mountains, you'll get more sky..... more sky will mean and different exposure.
2. For thee same reason, go with a fixed ISO and a fixed White Balance.
3. "Work out where your Nodal Point is"..... how?
4. Lining up with the Nodal Point.... my camera doesn't have the same bit of red string as yours.
5. Lens choice?
Why the fancy kit? Nothing wrong with a level tripod and an 'L' Bracket.
We have a video covering none-fancy kit too! Nothing wrong with covering all the bases.