That clock has been so abused in its life time, sadly thousands have been. It makes me wonder what sort of person would have been so unkind. I know going through the ages people would have taken their clocks to the local blacksmith. Its a nice feeling having people like you Tommy who have the skills to turn things around. I have seen many terrible repairs in my time as a clock maker. A wonderful video, thank you Tommy.
I've got to agree in that it has been bodged around rather a lot, where the only thing that mattered was keeping it working rather than repairing it well. I know its probably sacrilege but I would have to use a DA sander on those plates to get rid of the horrible file marks. Also the bracketry that supports the escape wheel and verge seem very scratched and beaten about. I suspect Tommy is balancing things around a sympathetic restoration versus restoring the clock to something like it was originally..
@@oldTimer-x3r DA sanders are very gentle with the finer grits. I would never use an angle grinder or anything like that Also the DA will keep the plate flat.
@@allanrichards3752 I don't care how gentle they might be. The marks are part of the clocks history so they should be left. We all have different opinions, my master who was very high up in horology taught me never to use power tools as they can damage parts. I spent 30 years without there use.
When you used a hammer to install the fusee bushing into the plate, what holds the bushing in place? Is it mostly that the bushing is slightly thicker than the plate and you are peening it over, or is it mostly that hitting the bushing with a hammer deforms it outward, or is it a combination of the two? Thanks.
Great question and well observed. I tend to put the slightest chamfer on the plate for the material to spread into, but just the action of hammering expands the bush so that it’s like a tight shrink fit. I’ve never known a bush move in service.
I noticed you didn't attempt to clean up the other damage on the top potance. What guides you when deciding to address damage and when not to? is it purely a time concern or do you leave it as part of the clocks history?
I try to do as little as possible to change the clock these days. Sometimes work is necessary and must be done, but I won’t carry out invasive clean up work unless it is specifically requested. I find that doing clean and neat work sort of counteracts the rough work of the past and the clock retains a readable history.
I always check the feel of the depthing before and after. If it’s suspect I will use a depthing tool to check it. Sometimes judgement from experience is enough though.
@@TommyJobson thanks Tommy! But to follow up, I understand you can check depthing by feel after the fact, but once the old bushing was removed did you use particular method for calculating the theoretical centre for the new one?
thoroughly enjoyable and educational to watch a professional at work... hopefully some of it will rub off on this hobbiest/enthusiast! 8-) wondering if you can give a broad-brush guesstimate of how long this one will take from start to finish, and (if i were a similar customer sending you a similar clock) how long would i have to wait before you could get to it (i.e., how long is your queue) and (again, broad-brush) how much such a restoration might cost? i'll take my answer off the air if more appropriate. keep those videos coming! 8-)
Great work as always! You may have mentioned it in a previous video, but what was the purpose of rubbing the plate in the box of sand in the closing scene? Is that to provide a uniform grain finish to the part or for some other reason? Thanks in advance for any info!
Thanks. It’s not sand, it’s called Gritcobs and is basically cork chippings. It’s a drying media that is ever so slightly abrasive. That was supposed to say “In the next episode” but the text is AWOL.
Thanks very much. I have no idea why a dislike button even exists. I was always taught if you’ve nothing good to say, don’t say anything at all, so to actively dislike something baffles me.
I not only learn a great deal from your videos but also gain a great appreciation for highly skilled work. Thanks for sharing.
Love the chip blocker on the lathe tool. Off to modify a few of my tools...
I love this!
Craftsmanship so cool
Very interesting and informative video. Not only outstanding clockwork, but also excellent video skills. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thank you for sharing Tommy.
Love the content, noticed the SO grinder at about 24 min, poor thing needs some love.
I'm thinking of selling it......
I love watching an artisan at work
That clock has been so abused in its life time, sadly thousands have been. It makes me wonder what sort of person would have been so unkind. I know going through the ages people would have taken their clocks to the local blacksmith. Its a nice feeling having people like you Tommy who have the skills to turn things around. I have seen many terrible repairs in my time as a clock maker. A wonderful video, thank you Tommy.
I've got to agree in that it has been bodged around rather a lot, where the only thing that mattered was keeping it working rather than repairing it well. I know its probably sacrilege but I would have to use a DA sander on those plates to get rid of the horrible file marks. Also the bracketry that supports the escape wheel and verge seem very scratched and beaten about. I suspect Tommy is balancing things around a sympathetic restoration versus restoring the clock to something like it was originally..
@@allanrichards3752 I would' never ever use power tools on an antique clock to remove marks.
@@oldTimer-x3r DA sanders are very gentle with the finer grits. I would never use an angle grinder or anything like that Also the DA will keep the plate flat.
@@allanrichards3752 I don't care how gentle they might be. The marks are part of the clocks history so they should be left. We all have different opinions, my master who was very high up in horology taught me never to use power tools as they can damage parts. I spent 30 years without there use.
Nice repair work Tommy. Those filings scratches looked very deep.
Congratulations Tommy, great job. Looking forward to more, it looks so good. Kind regards
Thanks, that’s very kind of you to say.
Great work, as always, Tommy! 🥰
Thanks!
Very nice work
And thus begins my quest for cast brass. Just when I obtained a decent quantity of 'the other stuff' aka C360 :-)
When you used a hammer to install the fusee bushing into the plate, what holds the bushing in place? Is it mostly that the bushing is slightly thicker than the plate and you are peening it over, or is it mostly that hitting the bushing with a hammer deforms it outward, or is it a combination of the two? Thanks.
Great question and well observed. I tend to put the slightest chamfer on the plate for the material to spread into, but just the action of hammering expands the bush so that it’s like a tight shrink fit. I’ve never known a bush move in service.
I noticed you didn't attempt to clean up the other damage on the top potance. What guides you when deciding to address damage and when not to? is it purely a time concern or do you leave it as part of the clocks history?
I try to do as little as possible to change the clock these days. Sometimes work is necessary and must be done, but I won’t carry out invasive clean up work unless it is specifically requested. I find that doing clean and neat work sort of counteracts the rough work of the past and the clock retains a readable history.
Lovely stuff! as ever I was wondering what depthing measures you took when bushing? Many thanks for your vids!
I always check the feel of the depthing before and after. If it’s suspect I will use a depthing tool to check it. Sometimes judgement from experience is enough though.
@@TommyJobson thanks Tommy! But to follow up, I understand you can check depthing by feel after the fact, but once the old bushing was removed did you use particular method for calculating the theoretical centre for the new one?
thoroughly enjoyable and educational to watch a professional at work... hopefully some of it will rub off on this hobbiest/enthusiast! 8-) wondering if you can give a broad-brush guesstimate of how long this one will take from start to finish, and (if i were a similar customer sending you a similar clock) how long would i have to wait before you could get to it (i.e., how long is your queue) and (again, broad-brush) how much such a restoration might cost? i'll take my answer off the air if more appropriate. keep those videos coming! 8-)
Thanks for the question, I've sent you a reply to this on Patreon.
Great work as always! You may have mentioned it in a previous video, but what was the purpose of rubbing the plate in the box of sand in the closing scene? Is that to provide a uniform grain finish to the part or for some other reason? Thanks in advance for any info!
Thanks. It’s not sand, it’s called Gritcobs and is basically cork chippings. It’s a drying media that is ever so slightly abrasive. That was supposed to say “In the next episode” but the text is AWOL.
@@TommyJobson fascinating, thanks! Looking forward to seeing the technique in action in the next one.
hi tommy. could that bush be made from phosphor - bronze?
It could, but it wasn’t originally, so it’s not.
Baker's fluid? Is that some sort of acid flux?
great video. got no idea why you have 7 dislikes though?
Thanks very much. I have no idea why a dislike button even exists. I was always taught if you’ve nothing good to say, don’t say anything at all, so to actively dislike something baffles me.
why would someone do such a butcher block job rather than repair it properly?