Unless you degreased and steam cleaned the motor entirely, you cannot be sure if a product works to stop leaks. That oil could have been sitting within any small area under/behind or beside your engine. I’ve worked as an advisor for dodge for many years and I’ve seen all types of oil leaks. The only way to ensure if and where an oil leak is coming from is to clean the motor and add a UV product and run vehicle for 300-500 miles. Then go under vehicle with a UV light and you will see the leak glowing. Your test tells us nothing.
It is not leaking while running because the crank at the seal has an auger that directs the oil into the crank. Once the engine is off that action ceases, allowing the oil to seep past the worn seal.
Well, I have a 2003 Acura TL-S with 126,000 miles. I had a small drop or two from the rear main seal. I used the same Bar's you did and it stopped the leak the next day. This was 3 weeks ago and still no leak..... I have a feeling your seal was too dried up and was leaking too much for any sealer to work. You have to use this stuff right away when the leak is small.
Exactly. I like throwing in a half bottle of this on all my high mileage cars. its just good to do. If i had a crazy leak i wouldnt think this stuff would fix it.
That's too big a leak for any product. Competent mechanics who work at home or on the side charge about $400 to change a rear seal, at a minimum and that's on a car that's easy to work on. You have to separate the engine and transmission to replace a lip seal. In the bad old days, when you had a so-called rope seal, you could drop the pan, loosen the main bearing cap and use a tool called a sneaky pete to pull a new seal through. Later, injected neoprene was another fix. With round seals there is no option but to replace the seal. My vehicle, an old Nissan Sentra which I bought at the end of September, developed a small seal leak in front when the weather changed. Bar's Leak seems to have stopped that, along with using a thicker oil. I changed the drive axles after I bought to car and one side developed a small axle seal leak. A product called AT-205 seems to have stopped that, but I should have changed the axle seals. The front crankshaft seal is pretty easy to change, but it is easier yet to just pour a bottle of something in there and see how it works. These situations are a strong argument for keeping your maintenance schedule. The people who change their oil, coolant and other fluids according to a strict schedules just do not report these problems even with hundreds of thousands of miles on their vehicles. My previous car was a 2001 Camry with 103/K at purchase which had been driven about 15 miles a week by an elderly driver. He had the oil changed only once every several years because it took him that long to hit the mileage mark. Every seal and gasket on the engine was bad except the pan gasket, something which should not happen in a car with that mileage even if it is 17 years old. I had fixed all of them except the rear seal when the car got wrecked. The other driver's company gave me a nice settlement. I bought the Sentra for pennies and put the rest in my piggy bank.
Your rear main won’t leak while motor is off parked. If it is leaking that means your motor has way too much oil in it and you need to drive it for a week or two then check it. Your rear main seal is half way up the motor. The oil should not be just sitting.
There's already oil out of the hole waiting to drop. Allow the chemical to work for at least a week and then check for leaks again. Also check the head cover gasket. My bimmer had a leak here and I thought it was coming from the main seal. Oil was routing to the main seal area. I was misled.
Worked for me on a 2007 GM 5.3 liter. My leak produced a few drips per hour and was sealed back up after about 100 miles over the course of 2 to 3 weeks. This will not revive a damaged (torn/worn away) seal. The seal in this car is way too far gone to think a product like this could fix it.
My oil leak is about the same amount as yours. And is leaking between the trans and engine area too. This video has helped me wether to spend $6 on this or not lol looks like I have to fork over some major cash to fix it correctly
Next is to try the best...Blue Devil Rear Main Seal stop leak...I had a leak twice as bad as this on my Ford 6 cylinder and BD reduced it to a drop or two overnight after driving 200 miles...Costs a bit more but cheaper than physically replacing the problem seal.
So you have to drive the car after it’s added??? I really need to know this ASAP cause I have not put the Bars yet but was just gonna put it in not drive anywhere so please let me know
Yes. If you just put it in and not run it, it’s not going through the system to the leak. I had a leak from my oils pan after putting a new one one with a new gasket. I drive it about 50 miles and got home and let it set. No more leak.
The problem with this stuff is that if the gasket has a crack/tear I doubt it will work. Maybe if it is complete, but stiffen, maybe this stuff will bring it temp life, but cracked or torn.. no way
I think it depends in how bad the seal is. I had both seals leaking oil from my cam sensors and it stopped the leak. so far its been a week or 2 since I put it 8n and ni problems yet. You have to read the bottle to. Some have copper fibers and others rejuvenate your seals over time. Which is why it may matter if your seal is really bad or you put the wrong kind in the oil or whatever and it takes a lot of driving to really be effective tho I have seen some slow leaks after 1 drive cycle.
A) that seal is too far gone for this treatment b) that is remnant oil that has already seeped past the seal. That seems like a lot so I'd go with a. Fix the problem by replacing the seal instead of treating it.
How am I supposed to add the 2 bottle? It says after 5000 miles add another bottle but idk if I should drain some oil and then add it or what the best way to add a 2nd a bottle would be
@@shlumpgod you’ll keep it all in until the next oil change. You want the oil with the other bottle and the second bottle to help fill the cracks with the additive.
That's the most stupid way of expecting a busted seal to miraculously fix itself when there's probably no rubber on the seal to soften and fix.. Duh, obviously the leak is past fixing this way.. Some people have no idea!!
Your a jagofff I have a Pontiac that will make you shit your little shirts it's called a 455 ho fucking chooch u don't any ins an outs about gm considering I work for them and make more then you've ever seen
What else has this product plugged up? Do you think the chemist said, hey Joe give me some of that rear main seal leak fixer will add this to oil additive and things will be all good. Your running the car on empty, the vent area is full of leaves and trying to use stop leak on oil leaks instead of fixing it properly. Come on dude
Next time just don't change the oil. I had a very small oil leak years ago and I just didn't bother changing the oil. After about 2 years the leak stopped. I am going on 8 years now with no oil change and I am very afraid to change it now. I do check the oil every few weeks and keep it topped off though.
FartsTrading Academy You must have to changed the oils after 3,000 miles in regular oiled or 5,000 miles in the synthetic oiled.Keeping the old oils in there more than that keep adding more and more new oils with the old oiled will not lubricant your engine parts,pistons parts and engine chambers correctly.Will killed your engine prematurely like about around 100,000 miles more quicker and will make horrible engine noises while you’re driving the car too.
thats a whole ass pontiac that thing does not need bars leak that needs to be compacted into a hunk of fucking junk square i guarantee that thing needs everything new and all you basically did was top off lubricant to it all those seals are gone bud dont buy a pontiac
He poured it all in without spilling a drop with no funnel. What a legend.
What's a funnel? 😂 Thanks for watching!
I did it too in Walmart parking lot and it was almost dark!
Works for me ..saw significant improvement.. had to let it sit 24 hours .great results. Thanks
Unless you degreased and steam cleaned the motor entirely, you cannot be sure if a product works to stop leaks. That oil could have been sitting within any small area under/behind or beside your engine. I’ve worked as an advisor for dodge for many years and I’ve seen all types of oil leaks. The only way to ensure if and where an oil leak is coming from is to clean the motor and add a UV product and run vehicle for 300-500 miles. Then go under vehicle with a UV light and you will see the leak glowing. Your test tells us nothing.
It is not leaking while running because the crank at the seal has an auger that directs the oil into the crank. Once the engine is off that action ceases, allowing the oil to seep past the worn seal.
Well, I have a 2003 Acura TL-S with 126,000 miles. I had a small drop or two from the rear main seal. I used the same Bar's you did and it stopped the leak the next day. This was 3 weeks ago and still no leak..... I have a feeling your seal was too dried up and was leaking too much for any sealer to work. You have to use this stuff right away when the leak is small.
This stuff reconditions seals back to size and elasticity within reason...it doesn't perform miracles which is what your seal would need
Exactly. I like throwing in a half bottle of this on all my high mileage cars. its just good to do. If i had a crazy leak i wouldnt think this stuff would fix it.
That's too big a leak for any product. Competent mechanics who work at home or on the side charge about $400 to change a rear seal, at a minimum and that's on a car that's easy to work on. You have to separate the engine and transmission to replace a lip seal. In the bad old days, when you had a so-called rope seal, you could drop the pan, loosen the main bearing cap and use a tool called a sneaky pete to pull a new seal through. Later, injected neoprene was another fix. With round seals there is no option but to replace the seal.
My vehicle, an old Nissan Sentra which I bought at the end of September, developed a small seal leak in front when the weather changed. Bar's Leak seems to have stopped that, along with using a thicker oil. I changed the drive axles after I bought to car and one side developed a small axle seal leak. A product called AT-205 seems to have stopped that, but I should have changed the axle seals. The front crankshaft seal is pretty easy to change, but it is easier yet to just pour a bottle of something in there and see how it works.
These situations are a strong argument for keeping your maintenance schedule. The people who change their oil, coolant and other fluids according to a strict schedules just do not report these problems even with hundreds of thousands of miles on their vehicles.
My previous car was a 2001 Camry with 103/K at purchase which had been driven about 15 miles a week by an elderly driver. He had the oil changed only once every several years because it took him that long to hit the mileage mark. Every seal and gasket on the engine was bad except the pan gasket, something which should not happen in a car with that mileage even if it is 17 years old. I had fixed all of them except the rear seal when the car got wrecked. The other driver's company gave me a nice settlement. I bought the Sentra for pennies and put the rest in my piggy bank.
put the oil drain plug back in.
I read instruction...if leak continues, second application may required its maybe work.
I don't know. I used the same product and it TOTALLY and almost instantly stopped the major leak I had.
Then I woke up and realized it was a dream.
Hello, the oil drain stopping agent can reduce the oil flow from the turbocharger
These products can rejuvenate seals that are STARTING to harden, however they can't repair cracked seals or totally hardened seals
Your rear main won’t leak while motor is off parked. If it is leaking that means your motor has way too much oil in it and you need to drive it for a week or two then check it. Your rear main seal is half way up the motor. The oil should not be just sitting.
AGREE
My car also only has a leak if I don't drive the for 2days
There's already oil out of the hole waiting to drop. Allow the chemical to work for at least a week and then check for leaks again. Also check the head cover gasket. My bimmer had a leak here and I thought it was coming from the main seal. Oil was routing to the main seal area. I was misled.
There is no "head cover gasket"
Geez didnt you say you just changed the oil....that looks old man
So you pour directly into the crank case?
Any of these seal repair fluid do work. It depends on the situation of the seals in question.
Worked for me on a 2007 GM 5.3 liter. My leak produced a few drips per hour and was sealed back up after about 100 miles over the course of 2 to 3 weeks.
This will not revive a damaged (torn/worn away) seal. The seal in this car is way too far gone to think a product like this could fix it.
Is that coming from the drain plug
My oil leak is about the same amount as yours. And is leaking between the trans and engine area too. This video has helped me wether to spend $6 on this or not lol looks like I have to fork over some major cash to fix it correctly
Dayum does the car leak gas too? Cuz it’s on E
Gas tank on E and all drinks on me
This worked for me. 2000 sienna.
How many Bottles did you use?
Can I mix it with the blue devil?
Next is to try the best...Blue Devil Rear Main Seal stop leak...I had a leak twice as bad as this on my Ford 6 cylinder and BD reduced it to a drop or two overnight after driving 200 miles...Costs a bit more but cheaper than physically replacing the problem seal.
*I had to use 3 bottles to get my leak to stop within a 3 week period...*
So you have to drive the car after it’s added??? I really need to know this ASAP cause I have not put the Bars yet but was just gonna put it in not drive anywhere so please let me know
@BSquared yeah I figured it out cars running a little better
Yes. If you just put it in and not run it, it’s not going through the system to the leak. I had a leak from my oils pan after putting a new one one with a new gasket. I drive it about 50 miles and got home and let it set. No more leak.
@@davechambers9886 Your do late lol I had my cover gaskets done lol
Have you tried changing your oil sender unit
the bars leak might work if the seal wasn't too far gone. if its too far gone then replace it.
The problem with this stuff is that if the gasket has a crack/tear I doubt it will work. Maybe if it is complete, but stiffen, maybe this stuff will bring it temp life, but cracked or torn.. no way
You supposed to put new oil in mate before using
You have a major leak dude
I think the only thing that will help with that leak is spray foam.
😂 spray foam would have totally worked. But, Blue Devil did do the trick
😂
You have a mechanic problem, everybody else trucks/cars is different, but that is a good way to show the you have a problem.
its only for smalkl leaks not a big one like yours
RIGHT
You need an oil change first 🤦🏻♀️
Sometimes, If one bottle doesn’t do the job, a second one will.
TRUE
Or a 3rd one if the 1st 2 don't work.
I think it depends in how bad the seal is. I had both seals leaking oil from my cam sensors and it stopped the leak. so far its been a week or 2 since I put it 8n and ni problems yet.
You have to read the bottle to. Some have copper fibers and others rejuvenate your seals over time. Which is why it may matter if your seal is really bad or you put the wrong kind in the oil or whatever and it takes a lot of driving to really be effective tho I have seen some slow leaks after 1 drive cycle.
A) that seal is too far gone for this treatment b) that is remnant oil that has already seeped past the seal. That seems like a lot so I'd go with a. Fix the problem by replacing the seal instead of treating it.
It's not going to work for a A leak
that bad. 4:09
Didnt work for me
Jeep grand cherokee 4.7
It says try two bottles. Also there’s Blue Devil.
I would totally recommend Blue Devil. It was what worked ultimately on this car.
How am I supposed to add the 2 bottle? It says after 5000 miles add another bottle but idk if I should drain some oil and then add it or what the best way to add a 2nd a bottle would be
@@shlumpgod you’ll keep it all in until the next oil change. You want the oil with the other bottle and the second bottle to help fill the cracks with the additive.
speak up man !!!!!!!!
CHANGE YOUR OIL...
SMH!!!
That's the most stupid way of expecting a busted seal to miraculously fix itself when there's probably no rubber on the seal to soften and fix..
Duh, obviously the leak is past fixing this way..
Some people have no idea!!
So i put this were my oil is
It works, but it’s not magic if that seals completely toast you can’t expect a miracle lol
That's not going to seal with any additive , that needs mechanical repair if it's leaking that bad
It's a Pontiac...that's why GM got rid of the name, they didn't make them well.
Your a jagofff I have a Pontiac that will make you shit your little shirts it's called a 455 ho fucking chooch u don't any ins an outs about gm considering I work for them and make more then you've ever seen
What else has this product plugged up? Do you think the chemist said, hey Joe give me some of that rear main seal leak fixer will add this to oil additive and things will be all good. Your running the car on empty, the vent area is full of leaves and trying to use stop leak on oil leaks instead of fixing it properly. Come on dude
Next time just don't change the oil. I had a very small oil leak years ago and I just didn't bother changing the oil. After about 2 years the leak stopped. I am going on 8 years now with no oil change and I am very afraid to change it now. I do check the oil every few weeks and keep it topped off though.
FartsTrading Academy You must have to changed the oils after 3,000 miles in regular oiled or 5,000 miles in the synthetic oiled.Keeping the old oils in there more than that keep adding more and more new oils with the old oiled will not lubricant your engine parts,pistons parts and engine chambers correctly.Will killed your engine prematurely like about around 100,000 miles more quicker and will make horrible engine noises while you’re driving the car too.
8 years now, no oil change no problem.
Just change the filter boss
Probably hasn't leaked due to the sludge that is probably forming all over the inside
That's not good, cars get oil changes for a reason. Just not changing it isn't a fix. Your car will not last you or cause more problems.
They never made a mechanic in a can and they never will.
It works but it’s not a miracle worker.
Put it In a wrecked Car,Hence the Front Bumper replacement 🤣🤣🤣
All the backyard mechanics may speak now😂
Made my 2008 Acura TL leak worse! Gonna have to spend 600$ to change it. Don’t believe everything the internet says!
How did it get worse it's just like a oil
Don't overfill or it will get worse.
thats a whole ass pontiac that thing does not need bars leak that needs to be compacted into a hunk of fucking junk square i guarantee that thing needs everything new and all you basically did was top off lubricant to it all those seals are gone bud dont buy a pontiac
dont need to change oil with that severe of a leak, just filter. Haaaa
speak up
Maby it is the transmision leak 🤣🤣🤣
Ahahahhahaha
buy a Toyota