there is something else I've noticed at10:22 , i might be wrong but the reservoir looks overfilled , (past max) i have learned to always leave some space for thermal expansion of the brake fluid ,another thing i learned was to only fill up you reservoir to the max when you just placed new brake pads and to make sure the rubber seal is not squished completely against the top cover
Yes, also if you "top it off" while having old brake pads, and you replace with new pads later on without adjusting the fluid level, you will basically push the pistons in and cause the fluid to overfill the reservoir.
Could have over tightened the lever also. Don't think the lever is at fault but incorrect installation. Only issues you might find with cheaper levers is quality and shape. Shape has alot to do with brake feel and how well the brakes bite. Cheaper levers you need to max them out to get a good feel unlike with stock and asv or crg levers.
Fr, it's just a metal piece😂. It's not that complex. How does a "cheap" lever malfunction. Lubrication like the guy said was most likely the issue. It was tight and gritty.
Not lubricating the pivot pin won’t magically make the front brakes engage without input. He said he was riding at a high rate of speed and the lever snapped rearward, and wouldn’t release. That’s not indicative of a pin binding. You could make that argument if he applied the brakes, and the lever wouldn’t release, because the pin was binding. BTW, Brian from STG has a video about levers and how he’s seen many issues with the Amazon brand in this video. You only have so many interfaces between you and the bike; it makes no sense to go cheap. It’s like putting in a knockoff brake pedal on your car.
How did your brakes completely locked in and you did not end up flipping over or fell off the bike? Especially going as fast as you said you were going, that would have been a tragedy. Something ain’t adding 🤔
There is a difference between cheap and quality. The installer is on point when he said he had no issues with the cheap ones and it's how you install them. Cheap does not always equal junk. It's also evident from this video you failed to lubricate the levers properly, thereby creating your own problem. Had you installed them properly you would not have made this video. I think you just wanted an excuse to install those nice AVS levers.......lol
What is the round cylinder thing called that you said you need to take from the one clutch lever and put into the aftermarket lever? Mine is missing and I need a new one but don’t know what it’s called if you could tell me it would be greatly appreciated please and thank you
That would be called a bearing. You would likely need to order the full OEM brake lever from the manufacturer to get that bearing again, but I'm not positive, you may be able to get one on its own if you look hard enough. GL
I have cheap levers "ride it" not mzs for past 6 yrs and have had no problems at all with the greased the pins, tighten to correct specs and good to go.only difference is price name price shape&price..lol
I'm stuck between CRG and ASV but the owners of CRG or employees won't even contact me back to tell me what sku number for 2024 zx10r so I may go ASV since they have no SKU for 2024 zx10r and won't email or return my voicmail
I am considering some “High Dollar” levers for my OLD 2002 Kawasaki Concours. ASV levers look like the go to lever, but they are $110.00 - $150.00 each side, depending on which you get from the factory! That just seems like a lot over the factory levers to me. I was hoping to get some real constructive reasons to make that jump to light speed, er, costly levers. Your explanation about the carbon fiber weighting a few oz.s less then the ASV levers doesn’t sound very logical, I mean the change in you pocket and keys for home could weight that much! Internal engine components, sure, weight inside the reciprocating mass makes a difference, but not what you carry as levers… . My opinion of course, and I don’t race. I hate to say it, but whomever was the mechanic changing out those levers did NOT demo it very well. It looked like you had the socket at an angle and it wasn’t on the bolt head straight at first! Your rag kept falling off, I mean, really? Sorry, but I’d work on your presentation a bit for next time. Credibility is based on your skill behind the wrench, and you didn’t demonstrate that very well to me.
@@vlad94 damn! I hope you are okay. That is what almost happened to my friend. But honestly, I believe that was an installation error. Because I have another motorcycle with cheap levers that I installed myself and that never happened to me. My friend decided to install his own lovers with no experience whatsoever.
@@ADRRUSH It's not me in the video and I also hope he's alright. I'm currently doing research for new levers but I got kind of scared of what could happen.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
there is something else I've noticed at10:22 , i might be wrong but the reservoir looks overfilled , (past max) i have learned to always leave some space for thermal expansion of the brake fluid ,another thing i learned was to only fill up you reservoir to the max when you just placed new brake pads and to make sure the rubber seal is not squished completely against the top cover
Yes, also if you "top it off" while having old brake pads, and you replace with new pads later on without adjusting the fluid level, you will basically push the pistons in and cause the fluid to overfill the reservoir.
Could have over tightened the lever also. Don't think the lever is at fault but incorrect installation. Only issues you might find with cheaper levers is quality and shape. Shape has alot to do with brake feel and how well the brakes bite. Cheaper levers you need to max them out to get a good feel unlike with stock and asv or crg levers.
Fr, it's just a metal piece😂. It's not that complex. How does a "cheap" lever malfunction. Lubrication like the guy said was most likely the issue. It was tight and gritty.
Not lubricating the pivot pin won’t magically make the front brakes engage without input. He said he was riding at a high rate of speed and the lever snapped rearward, and wouldn’t release. That’s not indicative of a pin binding. You could make that argument if he applied the brakes, and the lever wouldn’t release, because the pin was binding.
BTW, Brian from STG has a video about levers and how he’s seen many issues with the Amazon brand in this video. You only have so many interfaces between you and the bike; it makes no sense to go cheap. It’s like putting in a knockoff brake pedal on your car.
How did your brakes completely locked in and you did not end up flipping over or fell off the bike? Especially going as fast as you said you were going, that would have been a tragedy. Something ain’t adding 🤔
Facts
Yeah something is definitely not adding up, probably had to make some sort of story for this video but wasn’t a good one lol
Hey man do you know which years are interchangeable?
2011 and 2024 I know is the same. I don't know about 2010 and under
There is a difference between cheap and quality. The installer is on point when he said he had no issues with the cheap ones and it's how you install them. Cheap does not always equal junk. It's also evident from this video you failed to lubricate the levers properly, thereby creating your own problem. Had you installed them properly you would not have made this video. I think you just wanted an excuse to install those nice AVS levers.......lol
What is the round cylinder thing called that you said you need to take from the one clutch lever and put into the aftermarket lever? Mine is missing and I need a new one but don’t know what it’s called if you could tell me it would be greatly appreciated please and thank you
That would be called a bearing. You would likely need to order the full OEM brake lever from the manufacturer to get that bearing again, but I'm not positive, you may be able to get one on its own if you look hard enough. GL
@@MidmaCMwhy’s is called a bearing when it looks like a bushing.
So cheap levers didnt cause it. Poor installation did. noted. been running cnc levers for years. its a piece of metal, it should be cheap.
Yeah I have these levers on my son's bike and never had an issue with them so it was not a lever issue. it was an installation issue that caused it.
I need blue levers for my ninja 400 please help I can't find any been searching for hours
I have cheap levers "ride it" not mzs for past 6 yrs and have had no problems at all with the greased the pins, tighten to correct specs and good to go.only difference is price name price shape&price..lol
I did stated in the video it was an installation issue. I have cheap levers on another bike and they work just fine
I'm stuck between CRG and ASV but the owners of CRG or employees won't even contact me back to tell me what sku number for 2024 zx10r so I may go ASV since they have no SKU for 2024 zx10r and won't email or return my voicmail
I tried both, I personally like the CRG more.
Clutch lever slack is 2mm or a.k.a a nickel and should be able to hold the nickel and also pull the nickel out easily.
I am considering some “High Dollar” levers for my OLD 2002 Kawasaki Concours. ASV levers look like the go to lever, but they are $110.00 - $150.00 each side, depending on which you get from the factory! That just seems like a lot over the factory levers to me. I was hoping to get some real constructive reasons to make that jump to light speed, er, costly levers. Your explanation about the carbon fiber weighting a few oz.s less then the ASV levers doesn’t sound very logical, I mean the change in you pocket and keys for home could weight that much! Internal engine components, sure, weight inside the reciprocating mass makes a difference, but not what you carry as levers… . My opinion of course, and I don’t race. I hate to say it, but whomever was the mechanic changing out those levers did NOT demo it very well. It looked like you had the socket at an angle and it wasn’t on the bolt head straight at first! Your rag kept falling off, I mean, really? Sorry, but I’d work on your presentation a bit for next time. Credibility is based on your skill behind the wrench, and you didn’t demonstrate that very well to me.
We're not building a grand piano here. Or making a block buster movie. no one here is perfect. But I do get your point.
20% off with them, code; EZ20ASV
Sounds like bs to me
This is nonsense
So God broke your brake lever? There is nothing on a cheap lever to spontaneously lock your front brake.
This is what could happen: ruclips.net/video/gmOVptDWSPE/видео.html
@@vlad94 damn! I hope you are okay. That is what almost happened to my friend. But honestly, I believe that was an installation error. Because I have another motorcycle with cheap levers that I installed myself and that never happened to me. My friend decided to install his own lovers with no experience whatsoever.
@@ADRRUSH It's not me in the video and I also hope he's alright. I'm currently doing research for new levers but I got kind of scared of what could happen.
Hadn't you ridden at a such "high range of speed" and you would not have had that crash... Motorbikes don't make moto GP riders Tweety...