Thankyou for the great video. Old Hickory Forge was right about your channel. I like that you use what you have and do what you have to to get it done.
it's my pleasure. I try to use what others would have.. I own 3 swage blocks but not everyone owns one.. there are so many ways of forging that the opportunities are endless if one can think outside the box. I love handwork.. Welcome to the channel.. Was great Old Hickory Forge posted a link on his main title for the flatter build.. Really very nice of him to share what I am doing.. Very kind indeed.
I try to think outside the box too. I don't even have an actual anvil, but that doses not stop me from being creative and finding a way to make things. Thankyou for inspiring, and shairing the skills you developed.
not really , there isnt much blacksmithes here, but i do study a lot from books and the internet, i learn by myself but with the help of people like you with your videos i did a lot of progress in 3 years. thanks for all the knowledge you share ! @@jlpservicesinc1452
As I watched Old Hickory Forge he mentioned that you were a very good Blacksmit and I knew that for I had noticed that after I found you early as I began about a year ago. As I watched John swag block I just knew I don't have a big shop and I ain't getting a swag block for my Christmas. Great work and results you achieve building this hammer I do have a 8x8" x6" block of steel to upset, now mount in a frame of wood to hold on ground. Thanks for showing me the video that teaching me how to
thanks John, I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Yes, you have been a long time watcher of the channel and it's great you keep finding more info of use. Nearly all the series of videos have been done for people simply with anvil, forge and hammer and vise. Basic tools that even most beginners have. Swage blocks, power hammers, presses and such are time savers but many don't own them, so having the ability to see how these things are done without one of these tools can open other doors. A flatter is not a difficult project at all. the hard part is knowing how to get that flared bottom part done and upsetting on the angle does that and then with a little vise work it comes out perfectly. that 8X8X6 block should work perfectly. Your welcome.
Yeah I'm so glad Old Hickory Forge mentioned you and your channel. Not only did I learn so very much and I hope to learn much more, but you are so much easier to look at than John too!
Hi Brady and welcome aboard.. I'm very glad he mentioned the channel as well. It's great getting a new influx of like minded people.. I really like John's straight common sense approach.. LOL.. Thanks. . You might have seen me on a good day.. LOL.. By the time I get around to filming the videos it's after a full day of work completely tired out so usually have just enough time to film never mind get cleaned up.. LOL.. Here on this channel I am very open to questions and try to give answers as clearly as I can without the ability to share photos.. it's all about helping others. So, feel free to ask and or make suggestions as well.. Have a great day.. J
Old Hickory Forge sent me over too! It was great watching you work with just regular tools! You sure have a ton of energy! Thanks for sharing your skills!
Right on, and welcome to the channel.. Thanks I love hand tools.. Love power hammer and hydraulic presses also, but want to use what most people would have in there shops just starting out. All of the projects on the channel take between 1hr and 1.5hrs to forge in real time. (lol its all the extra time I have).. I then only edit out the reheat times. I usually move at a relaxed pace.. :) You should see when I am forging for money.. LOL..
I am a beginner and I am new to your channel. I like your style of teaching the craft. The no talking and no background music is what makes your views perfect.
Dusty, welcome to the channel. Thanks for the kind words and comment. Please feel free to ask questions if something arises. Happy to help. Thanks again. J
Awesome! I am a beginner, my first attempt at making a flatter was a total mess. Now that I have seen the proper way (thanks to you) I will try another one. Great vid I learned a lot I am subscribed and following.
Welcome aboard. Nearly all the videos are meant to be used in this fashion. Watch them a time or 2, then go try it. Come back and watch the video again. and try it. By the 3rd time the new skills learned in the video are usually yours. Thanks for the kind words and again. Welcome aboard.
I am technically 40% disabled but I go at like I am not all the the time. And there is a certain satisfaction and pride making your own tools ⚒! Again well done ma’am!
This is why I love upsetting blocks on anvils and wish I had one. It would’ve helped a ton. Wish I saw this earlier. I will be buying a swage block soon and I recently bought a flatter at an auction
A swage block is easier for sure. But keep in mind the ability to forge whatever you want is dependent on a skill set, Not a particular tool. This particular skill set is a baseline skill set (Upsetting, punching, eye shaping) and it only took just over 1hr to forge without a swage block. Yup, just over 1 hr. I didn't even want to use the vise. :) If I had moved to the vise sooner it would have taken under 1 hr, more like 45 minutes, but these videos are for beginners or intermediates in skillset that are not tooled up to the hilt. As you pointed out. You don't have a swage block. why wait till you have one to make a flatter. Just make one. Now you know how. :) A swage block is not needed at all. Just a good understanding of the tools one already have and then the ability to use them accordingly. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I like to see and hear what is taking place.. The talking just adds a distraction.. Lucky for me I don't like the sound of my own voice.. :) Though some would argue to the contrary.. When I demo I will usually explain while I forge.. but this is to a blacksmithing or bladesmithing group.. Little different..
Really enjoyed the video so what there were few procedural mistakes we all make them whether it be forging something we haven't done in a while or putting together a new swing set without the directions. LOL keep them coming really enjoyed it. Thank you
since its an educational video.. I want people to know there are mistakes and the way to correct them... I am a big fan of trouble shooting forgings now as i like the challenge.. But, for most it's best to have it be as simple and direct to get to the finished product without variation..
@@twistedpiforge2364 thats funny.. i was talking when it was taken at a demo.. I sent in this photo for the ABANA conference and I was told the same thing by someone else.. LOL.. I'm a big fan of the mug shot.. :)
Old hickory forge sent me here as well. Subscribed, amazing work. Now to go make myself a better flatter. One word of wisdom I learned the hard way, I would grind off the mushrooming on the punch. A mis hit can make a piece of steel fly off and could be pretty dangerous. Caught myself in the cheek with one.
thanks for liking and subscribing.. In 42 years as a smith I have never had a chip come off the back of a properly made and tempered punch or chisel.. With that said it is a great recommendation and since these videos are a "How to" for newbies as well as seasoned smiths I will take your words to heart. All of the striking tools are dead soft except the 4140 which always seems to stay hardier vs any of the others out of the range of 5160 or w1, and such.. (I don't use much S7 or H13 or high alloys for general use).. 4140 gets double tempered and ground each and every time the smallest curl even thinks about forming.. :) thanks again.
JLP Services Inc I’m pretty much a newbie smith myself, I’ve only been at it for a couple of years and still have loads to learn. All of my advice comes from my mistakes. 😂 Most of my tools are hardened and tempered 5160, and 4140 with a soft striking edge. Other than my drifts, which most are miscellaneous unhardened tool steel with a couple of mild pieces here and there. I’m prone to miss hits if I start getting fatigued, so I tend to make sure my tools have little to no curls. I smacked one or two off when I first started smithing and it’s 100% likely it was the quality of my tools, and my accuracy.
Likewise, Old Hickory Forge suggested this video and it is great! Being in Australia, large swage blocks don't come cheap so this is something I am keen to try
It's really not that hard.. All the steps are laid out and just punch the eye hole and taper it out once the face is done.. Do the finial finishing once the eye is punched.. I know a few people who have done well using this method. In the most recent "swage for the refflinhaus " video I use this flatter
Thanks, My pleasure.. Far from perfect Roy.. My perfectionist days are long gone.. besides that. I'm lazy now.. LOL.. The footage that makes up the video is shot as i forge.. No retakes or redoo's.. So what you see on film is it.. :)
@@renegadescout It's great to see little things other do differently.. I always love seeing students work because they have such a fresh way at looking at a normal task.. That Duh, moment when it's like.. Why, did i think of that.. :)
@@renegadescout I've been getting invites from all over.... I am to young to retire so am strapped down to home base.. But, if I do take to the open road, I will be sure to add a stop on the journey down your way.. I appreciate the invite.. Same goes in reverse though until the teaching facility is up, I'm just working out of the demo trailer.. If you happen to be at the 2020 ABANA conference I will be teaching a class there.... Not sure yet what it will cover but here is what I am thinking so far.. chain making, forge welding trouble shooting, fork making, Blacksmith twist (basket handle) forging.. I was asked to involve forge welding but I have 1hr to teach and then the students have 2 hrs to produce.. If any of you guys can make it to the ABANA conference.. the teaching tent is amazing.. The skill set starts off pretty easy and by the end of the conference a person can have a very wide range of exposure to nearly all the skill sets needed. Tapers, punching, forge welding...
Not to bad.. Filming and being limited by this increases time.. But not really bad at all.. I only remove the reheat times so 2x the video length will get you into the ball park time wise.. Thanks
I've got 2 big power tools.. right arm and left arm.. :) LOL.. I don't use power tools in any of the videos.. With a little time it's not a difficult project.. Just gotta take the time..
Well thank you is in order.. I did not know who Brent Bailey is/was so thanks for pointing him out to me... The sailor expression is " I like the cut of his jib".. From what I had seen he is a mighty fine smith and happy to be compared.. Please subscribe and like.. I have a whole bunch of other videos.. :) welcome to the channel..
Great job againAmaizing that blacksmiths ( good ones ) can take 1.75 lb.of steel and make anything that weighs 1.75 lb. Can almost her you voice if I turn volume way up then hammering is also way up. Love you videos....thanks
Thanks Kindly.. I thought it was fun.. I think many will think the upsetting is more than they want though.. a little more than 1.5hrs start to finish.. Not bad I think.. On the new intro looking for feedback.. Not to long? to short? feedback welcomed.. Thanks again.
Thanks... round stock with the same volume of metal will work just as well.. Just square it as you upset it.. Also, 1" is just what I had on hand and would make the size flatter most would expect.. A smaller flatter can be awfully handy..
Thanks for watching and commenting.. It helps a lot on this side to see what people like or want to see so each comment is helpful.. Thanks again.. Best J.
New sub here, watched the project and read all the comments and responses. So no need for the myriad of questions I had now . However am curious the method used to get your anvil dead quiet that way ,If you dont mind telling your secrets lol. Great project and nice end results too. Talented hands that's for surely obvious. 🙏Blessings abundant Crawford out 🧙♂️
An anvil rings because of vibrations. If an anvil is mounted solidly it will dampen nearly all the vibrations and the noise. Check out the trailer build on the Facebook photo albums page or google page. If you have a hard time finding it let me know. I'm posting this response from my phone..
@@danielcrawford7315 the german pattern is the most versatile with little fan far or additons of extra tooling. the double horn makes it convenient. this pattern is a northern German pattern which has a sharp edge from the face to horn. This is handy for making chain but not for much else. it creates a lip that is higher than the horn so one can run the risk of hitting the face with the hammer when working over the horn.. The southern german anvil pattern is my favored type/shape. Refflinghaus #58 is a great example. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Man, I am so glad you liked the other comment. I had some issues with the RUclips that erased most of my subscriptions, it could have been one of my Grandkids. And because I have this bruised Brain I couldn’t remember how to find you. Hay, could you tell me what that other place is called, it’s the place that all kinds of different people respond to question. It so good to see your instruction again.
Do you mean the forum.. Iforgeiron.com Glad to here you found us again.. Hope all is well.. Everything happens when its supposed to.. :) If that is the case, there are a few videos new for you to watch to boot.. Good to see your around.. :) I was wondering where you disappeared to..
JLP Services Inc I saw you had new Videos up, I will view them later today, been up all night keeping critters safe. I know it’s got to be cold up there because the Frogs here are knocking on our doors trying to get warm. I will see you on I Forge Iron, if I can find my notebook with the sign in stuff.
@@gateway8833 Excellent, 0F when we went to bed.. I'd love to have frogs banging on the door to come in... Bless you and your critters.. the cold is tolerable but we also got snow and this just makes thing miserable for work type stuff..
JLP Services Inc If it snows here I stay off the roads. These folks just shrug off Hurricanes but give them a 1/4” of snow and there’s a run on little Debbies, chips and Pop, schools close and anything that resembles a slope will have kids frozen to it. It’s crazy. Do you get a break from shoeing?
@@gateway8833 Not really.. worked today in the 0F.. The owner was complaining about how cold it was.. I have a car with awd and 4 studded snow tires so can get around no matter what.. I take a day off and no pay.. Not only that, but where do I fit them back into the schedule.. I'd just as soon keep working and hope for the best.. We are all funny.. it helps to see this when we look..
Hello and welcome to the channel.. Yes for sure: , charcoal dust, coal dust, scale, etc, etc.. Just don't.. Haven't in years.. If I am punching a deep hole i might but very rarely now.. Thanks for commenting.. Please like and subscribe..
Yes, more better! Have not had a chance to watch all of it yet. Was taking a break from plowing my Lane and my phone went off. We got 8 or 10 in of snow yesterday and last night. Will watch it first chance I get and get back with you. Thanks
Awesome video. Quick question though, and I hope it doesn’t come off as snarky because it’s not at all my intention. Why put a small taper on the end of the bar before you upset it?
Not snarky at all.. It's a great question. it does several things.. It moves the center of the bar into a smaller section so the force being applied goes thru the center of the bar.. This help to keep the bar straighter during the upsetting. The mass (upset) needs to form further up the bar to start with.. If the end of the bar upsets first its' harder to keep things centered. And it helps with fishmouths.. Tapering.. in this example it's not; as important unless the fish mouthing is really bad an creates a cold shut. It's a progression.. I upset about 1"from the end first then allow for it all to upset.. This creates a better defined shoulder without it getting off center and no potential of cold shut behind the flatters face.. this would lead to a crack..
there was a burr on the bar from where it had been arc welded before and snapped apart (scrap piece). I snagged my thumb on it so I decided it was best to smooth it out. You can see the little weld bead get knocked off after a few blows with the hammer. It doesn't matter how old the videos are.. As long as I get notifications I will respond.. A few times a month I come through and look for unanswered comments. Hope you are well.
I thought these peddinghaus anvils came with an upsetting block on side ??? Also what size stock if don't mind me asking , you may have said I just didn't catch it I guess , you are awesome and I'm subscribed, love how you use subtitles and different camera angles , I can actually see now what really is going on blow for blow , awesome sauce
They do, I also have a huge upsetting block on the floor.. It's impossible to film in these spots so don't use them.. Same reason I dislike having to use the vise as it means more cameras to shuffle.. I have 4 cameras in use usually.. Ick.. 1" 1018.. Scrap actually.. in part of the video I stop to knock off a welding bead chip.. Thanks.. Enjoy.. Share, like thanks for subscribing..
Fantastic! I knew it could be done this way and it’s on my short list to try but this is my first time seeing someone actually make a flatter this way! Thanks!
Thanks.. It more than likely will be the only time you see it done this way, unless people start sharing the technique.. Most won't attempt this kind of forging and is the reason I posted it.. If you haven't checked out the channel yet, there are a bunch of videos on skill sets few talk about.. Few neat trick things also.. Welcome to the channel and please like and subscribe.. If you do use the techniques please share where you originally found the information.. Much appreciated.. Best J..
I never have understood why people make a flatter like this? I simply bought a piece of 3" round stock 4150. I slightly flatted two sides. Punched an eye. Put a piece of 1" square 4150 in the eye snugly for a handle and Welded top and bottom in place. Then rounded off the end of the bar where its held so it would be more comfortable. It works great. Its heavy and it doesnt bounce, and the weight helps me keep it perfect and parallel to the anvil face. Its basically a short nosed hammer. Its as long as it is wide and tall. Almost cube measurements
How long is never?? Classical designs. Today I think for much of it design-wise is misunderstood. But also the ability to arc weld and use modern machinery changes the potential. The other factor is how it is used. Many times the tool design hinges upon how its used. My own personal preference is for this style of flatter. It will serve me for another 30 years. With this said, if a person is using a power hammer and the tool design is such that it can serve at the anvil as well with a striker all the better. I dont feel or think there is only 1 way or (the Best way) there are just ways which many times are dependent on the needed action at hand. This video is simply a snapshot of one given aspect of making a certain tool. Its certainly not the only way... Covering all facets of making a flatter would mean making many more videos of which much of the information would be redundant. Take it for what it is. Merely a way, but not the only way.
It is a Swedish style hammer. Newly purchased about 6 years ago from Centaur forge. The Swedish pattern is my favorite when I'm doing a bunch of peen forging like on a thumblatch.
This is good, have you ever thought about using a lube when punching, I use a mixture of linseed oil and beeswax, works good, and was wondering why punch so close to the curve near the flatter??
Thanks, I don't like punch lubes. . Never found one that I liked as I can't stand the way they make my hands, hammer and everything else they get on feel.. I used to use charcoal and coal dumped in the hole but really its a non issue.. When filming videos I take my time... the pace is about 1/2 what I normally work at.. You can see during the upset there are a few times that I start to move at normal mode.. I like my handles to be located near the face of the tool... this gives greater control with less deflection.. As the eye moves upwards you will need more to keep it from kicking.. There is also a golden rule of 3rds for striked tools as well as most other tools, scrolls etc, etc.. The next video I am thinking of doing will be a steeled set hammer.. Thanks again for commenting.. I appreciate your feedback and questions...
@@jlpservicesinc1452 Ok it's good to see what other blacksmiths like or don't like and thanks for the tips on the 3rds rule. And yes it makes sense now, the lower the handle area the better to control the tool. You must of started young you still look young to be doing this for what....40 yrs did you say??
@@lenblacksmith8559 Yes, it is.. Sharing information is wonderful.. My pleasure.. What I'm here for.. Using a lube on a punch press or deep punch or hydraulic press works well.. I don't use gloves so even when forge welding, borax will act like a lube and make things a little more slippery.. Wow, it will be 43 years next month.. Hard to believe.. If you haven't done it yet, check out the JLP Services inc photo albums on Facebook, lot of previous work photos.. facebook.com/pg/jlpsinc/photos/
Plain old 1018 mild steel.. This will work for years on hot steel. I did quench it from yellow and if I wanted to i'd burn it a little and then quench it.. While I wouldn't suggest this method to smarty pants. I've used it in a pinch and I still have a few tools that are alive 30 years later.. :) If you noticed the face is a little thicker... If I were going to be beating this up, I'd steel it or case harden it.. Thanks on the intro.. Not to long? Suggestions welcome.. Still not sure what I'm doing with it, figured it would be a starting point.. :) Thanks again.
@@jlpservicesinc1452 I didn't think it was too long, but that's just my opinion. I kinda figured this was mild steel and I agree that with proper care it should last a lifetime. Might have to dress the striking end, but you'd have to do that even with a tool steel.
@@jamesmcmillen4828 I just weld the whole thing back together when the striking end starts to split.. If I needed this to be a hard work tool, i'd steel it with some 5160 or 4140 face and call it a day.. Just like the old days.. Well sorta.. :)
Another great video Jen! Really enjoy watching you work. All traditional. Very inspiring. I may have to try this one seriously doubt that I could do it in the times you mention in the beginning but that's ok I just really liked the style and the fact you used 1" stock.. May I ask what kind of steel you used?
Hey Jim, plain old mild steel 1018.. Just take your time.. 1" is pretty big material if not used to working it.. Keep your temps up.. I have a shelf on the anvil and a upsetting block on the floor which would have made it much easier and faster to upset.. I just dislike having to move the cameras around so use the anvil.. with a 4 or 5' long bar 3 or 4 heats and youd be surprised how fast it moves.. Remember just to keep the heats up and the part upset centered to the parent bar.. if you do make one, I'd love to see it.. I love it when people actually use the techniques and report back.. I kinda get bummed when people say they saw a video on youtube on how to make something and don't give the name of the person who made the video.. :)
@@jlpservicesinc1452 In all seriousness I've seen your name mentioned several times already this year in 2 of the facebook blacksmith groups I belong to. A lot of people who are trying to learn smithing have heard of you and I myself have referred a number to your video's. You know your stuff! That is very evident. I have 20' of 1" square in my shop I am in the near future going to give this a try. Thanks for the info and I will let you know how I make out to include a few pictures. thanks again.
@@jjppres Thanks Jim.. and thanks for passing along the videos.. Can't wait to see your flatter.. As a starter making a set hammer is easier and the same basic method is used.. I might make a video to make a set hammer also.. :)
@@jlpservicesinc1452 Well I am having issues with the upset. I start with the taper then start to upset straight up and down. Then at an angle. Things appear fine at first and really working well and then I notice it is flaring on 3 sides and not the fourth. I cut off the bar and started anothe and the same thing happens. Flaring great on 3 sides and not the fourth. I am turnng 1/4 turn each time. Any idea what I'm doing wrong or how to correct the issue? Any help would be appreciated. Didn't know how to get in touch about this other than going back to the video.
@@jjppres The bar is getting pushed to one side.. Basically straightening one side.. You will need to push the side opposite the straight bar back in line with with the center of the bar.. If it is completely straight on the one side push the bar towards the straight side and keep going.. You actually have a side that is longer than the other.. I posted a thread to I forge iron which is located Here: www.iforgeiron.com/topic/61086-how-to-forge-a-flatter-no-swage-block-used/ This will allow for further discussion with pictures and fine tuning.. RUclips would be even better if there was a way to post a picture to the comments also.. Check in over there and we can get you going again..
Thanks, but thats not blacksmithing.. Thats fabrication. Nothing wrong with that, if that is what one wants to do.. With that said, there is something about using a well made tool.. It really looks like more work than it was.. I really tried to avoid using the vise.. Besides if I make it look to easy.. I won't get all the accolades.. LOL..
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Old hickory forge sent me here...not disappointed
Thanks Old Hickory forge.. Welcome aboard.. Thanks
Super work and nice video. I love the fact that you are showing us "Guys" how to do by hand without fancy tools. I'm now a subscriber.
Hi Jason. Welcome aboard and thanks for the feedback and subscribing.
Thankyou for the great video. Old Hickory Forge was right about your channel. I like that you use what you have and do what you have to to get it done.
it's my pleasure. I try to use what others would have.. I own 3 swage blocks but not everyone owns one.. there are so many ways of forging that the opportunities are endless if one can think outside the box. I love handwork.. Welcome to the channel.. Was great Old Hickory Forge posted a link on his main title for the flatter build.. Really very nice of him to share what I am doing.. Very kind indeed.
I try to think outside the box too. I don't even have an actual anvil, but that doses not stop me from being creative and finding a way to make things. Thankyou for inspiring, and shairing the skills you developed.
im a blacksmith since 3 y now and just discovered your channel. so cooooool !! you are amazing. Respect and love from france
Wow, congratulations on the 3yrs.. Are you able to apprentice with someone? Respect and love back at you..
not really , there isnt much blacksmithes here, but i do study a lot from books and the internet, i learn by myself but with the help of people like you with your videos i did a lot of progress in 3 years. thanks for all the knowledge you share ! @@jlpservicesinc1452
As I watched Old Hickory Forge he mentioned that you were a very good Blacksmit and I knew that for I had noticed that after I found you early as I began about a year ago.
As I watched John swag block I just knew I don't have a big shop and I ain't getting a swag block for my Christmas.
Great work and results you achieve building this hammer I do have a 8x8" x6" block of steel to upset, now mount in a frame of wood to hold on ground.
Thanks for showing me the video that teaching me how to
thanks John, I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Yes, you have been a long time watcher of the channel and it's great you keep finding more info of use.
Nearly all the series of videos have been done for people simply with anvil, forge and hammer and vise. Basic tools that even most beginners have. Swage blocks, power hammers, presses and such are time savers but many don't own them, so having the ability to see how these things are done without one of these tools can open other doors.
A flatter is not a difficult project at all. the hard part is knowing how to get that flared bottom part done and upsetting on the angle does that and then with a little vise work it comes out perfectly.
that 8X8X6 block should work perfectly.
Your welcome.
Outstanding and well done! Old Hickory Forge mentioned you and it was well worth it! I will be adding you to learn from, Thank You
Thanks and welcome
Yeah I'm so glad Old Hickory Forge mentioned you and your channel. Not only did I learn so very much and I hope to learn much more, but you are so much easier to look at than John too!
Hi Brady and welcome aboard.. I'm very glad he mentioned the channel as well. It's great getting a new influx of like minded people.. I really like John's straight common sense approach..
LOL.. Thanks. . You might have seen me on a good day.. LOL.. By the time I get around to filming the videos it's after a full day of work completely tired out so usually have just enough time to film never mind get cleaned up.. LOL..
Here on this channel I am very open to questions and try to give answers as clearly as I can without the ability to share photos.. it's all about helping others. So, feel free to ask and or make suggestions as well.. Have a great day.. J
Ouch. My pride.
@@OldHickoryForge dude, you look swell! 😜
Very cool project. I have not seen any good videos on upsetting material. You show it very clearly and effectively.
I love doing items like this. it really is a fun project.. thank you very much.
Old Hickory Forge sent me over too! It was great watching you work with just regular tools! You sure have a ton of energy! Thanks for sharing your skills!
Right on, and welcome to the channel.. Thanks I love hand tools.. Love power hammer and hydraulic presses also, but want to use what most people would have in there shops just starting out.
All of the projects on the channel take between 1hr and 1.5hrs to forge in real time. (lol its all the extra time I have).. I then only edit out the reheat times. I usually move at a relaxed pace.. :) You should see when I am forging for money.. LOL..
I am a beginner and I am new to your channel. I like your style of teaching the craft. The no talking and no background music is what makes your views perfect.
Dusty, welcome to the channel. Thanks for the kind words and comment. Please feel free to ask questions if something arises. Happy to help. Thanks again. J
Awesome! I am a beginner, my first attempt at making a flatter was a total mess. Now that I have seen the proper way (thanks to you) I will try another one. Great vid I learned a lot I am subscribed and following.
Welcome aboard. Nearly all the videos are meant to be used in this fashion. Watch them a time or 2, then go try it. Come back and watch the video again. and try it. By the 3rd time the new skills learned in the video are usually yours.
Thanks for the kind words and again. Welcome aboard.
I truly like the way you do your work! All hand crafted. All I can say is your work is inspiring and well done ma’am!
Thanks Marc.. I aim to show the old school stuff.. :)
I am technically 40% disabled but I go at like I am not all the the time. And there is a certain satisfaction and pride making your own tools ⚒! Again well done ma’am!
@@marcsenteney3160 There most certainly is.. I'm sure you do.. Can't keep a good man down right.. :)
Madam, that is what I call persistence and stamina! Yes, you are indeed a BLACKSMITH. I'm really impressed. Big THUMBS UP from me!!
Well, thank you. and welcome to the channel. LOL.. Mighty appreciate the feedback and comment and thumbs up. :)
This is why I love upsetting blocks on anvils and wish I had one. It would’ve helped a ton. Wish I saw this earlier. I will be buying a swage block soon and I recently bought a flatter at an auction
A swage block is easier for sure. But keep in mind the ability to forge whatever you want is dependent on a skill set, Not a particular tool.
This particular skill set is a baseline skill set (Upsetting, punching, eye shaping) and it only took just over 1hr to forge without a swage block. Yup, just over 1 hr. I didn't even want to use the vise. :) If I had moved to the vise sooner it would have taken under 1 hr, more like 45 minutes, but these videos are for beginners or intermediates in skillset that are not tooled up to the hilt.
As you pointed out. You don't have a swage block. why wait till you have one to make a flatter. Just make one. Now you know how. :)
A swage block is not needed at all. Just a good understanding of the tools one already have and then the ability to use them accordingly. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I like your style of teaching! most youtubers talk way too much and it can be distracting!
I like to see and hear what is taking place.. The talking just adds a distraction.. Lucky for me I don't like the sound of my own voice.. :) Though some would argue to the contrary..
When I demo I will usually explain while I forge.. but this is to a blacksmithing or bladesmithing group.. Little different..
Really enjoyed the video so what there were few procedural mistakes we all make them whether it be forging something we haven't done in a while or putting together a new swing set without the directions. LOL keep them coming really enjoyed it. Thank you
since its an educational video.. I want people to know there are mistakes and the way to correct them... I am a big fan of trouble shooting forgings now as i like the challenge.. But, for most it's best to have it be as simple and direct to get to the finished product without variation..
Next time smile for the intro have a great day
@@twistedpiforge2364 thats funny.. i was talking when it was taken at a demo..
I sent in this photo for the ABANA conference and I was told the same thing by someone else.. LOL.. I'm a big fan of the mug shot.. :)
I absolutely love your work, you are so good and have been teaching me a lot that other blacksmiths have not!
Thanks. I hope to bring this same type of teaching and information to the JLP Blacksmith teaching facility when it opens. :).
Wonderful video Jen! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Bryan, thanks and congrats on the hammer.. :) Your welcome..
Hey, love the video! Fantastic example of good forging techniques. Thanks for sharing this.
Thank you.. Please like and subscribe. it does make a difference with the youtube algorithms.
@@jlpservicesinc1452 been subbed a while now. Love the no nonsense approach and the quality content. Thanks
@Dire Wolf Forge thank you. Means a great deal.
Love the forge work starts to finish,All black Smith forging not grinder and belt sander Amazing skills
Thanks
Old hickory forge sent me here as well. Subscribed, amazing work. Now to go make myself a better flatter. One word of wisdom I learned the hard way, I would grind off the mushrooming on the punch. A mis hit can make a piece of steel fly off and could be pretty dangerous. Caught myself in the cheek with one.
thanks for liking and subscribing..
In 42 years as a smith I have never had a chip come off the back of a properly made and tempered punch or chisel.. With that said it is a great recommendation and since these videos are a "How to" for newbies as well as seasoned smiths I will take your words to heart. All of the striking tools are dead soft except the 4140 which always seems to stay hardier vs any of the others out of the range of 5160 or w1, and such.. (I don't use much S7 or H13 or high alloys for general use)..
4140 gets double tempered and ground each and every time the smallest curl even thinks about forming.. :) thanks again.
JLP Services Inc I’m pretty much a newbie smith myself, I’ve only been at it for a couple of years and still have loads to learn. All of my advice comes from my mistakes. 😂 Most of my tools are hardened and tempered 5160, and 4140 with a soft striking edge. Other than my drifts, which most are miscellaneous unhardened tool steel with a couple of mild pieces here and there. I’m prone to miss hits if I start getting fatigued, so I tend to make sure my tools have little to no curls. I smacked one or two off when I first started smithing and it’s 100% likely it was the quality of my tools, and my accuracy.
Likewise, Old Hickory Forge suggested this video and it is great! Being in Australia, large swage blocks don't come cheap so this is something I am keen to try
It's really not that hard.. All the steps are laid out and just punch the eye hole and taper it out once the face is done..
Do the finial finishing once the eye is punched..
I know a few people who have done well using this method.
In the most recent "swage for the refflinhaus " video I use this flatter
Thanks again .
Your techniques are excellent
Thank you. Fun for sure. :)
Very good vidio Jen. Thanks for sharing. I like how you admit your mistakes...lets us know your not perfect. I know I'm not.
Thanks, My pleasure.. Far from perfect Roy.. My perfectionist days are long gone.. besides that. I'm lazy now.. LOL..
The footage that makes up the video is shot as i forge.. No retakes or redoo's.. So what you see on film is it.. :)
Excellent work.
thanks.. Hope you were able to get something out of it.. Best J..
@@jlpservicesinc1452 I always learn something when I watch other smith's forge...
@@renegadescout It's great to see little things other do differently.. I always love seeing students work because they have such a fresh way at looking at a normal task.. That Duh, moment when it's like.. Why, did i think of that.. :)
@@jlpservicesinc1452 I don't know where you're located but if you ever find yourself in Central Arkansas you're more than welcome to stop by my forge.
@@renegadescout I've been getting invites from all over.... I am to young to retire so am strapped down to home base.. But, if I do take to the open road, I will be sure to add a stop on the journey down your way..
I appreciate the invite.. Same goes in reverse though until the teaching facility is up, I'm just working out of the demo trailer..
If you happen to be at the 2020 ABANA conference I will be teaching a class there.... Not sure yet what it will cover but here is what I am thinking so far.. chain making, forge welding trouble shooting, fork making, Blacksmith twist (basket handle) forging..
I was asked to involve forge welding but I have 1hr to teach and then the students have 2 hrs to produce..
If any of you guys can make it to the ABANA conference.. the teaching tent is amazing.. The skill set starts off pretty easy and by the end of the conference a person can have a very wide range of exposure to nearly all the skill sets needed. Tapers, punching, forge welding...
Very upsetting! :) Seriously awesome work! Now I might try making one later this year.
Go for it! Super handy..
That's a tough one alone lol !
Came out nice.
Not to bad.. Filming and being limited by this increases time.. But not really bad at all.. I only remove the reheat times so 2x the video length will get you into the ball park time wise..
Thanks
Nice.. I need to make one of these, and I have no big power tools (press or power hammer)
I've got 2 big power tools.. right arm and left arm.. :) LOL.. I don't use power tools in any of the videos..
With a little time it's not a difficult project.. Just gotta take the time..
Good video. I need to make one of these. I really like the two camera angles. Thanks.
Hello, Thanks.. I do too.. :)
That was some savage going with no striker, turned damn nice, also think your hammer skills are matched only by Brent Bailey
Well thank you is in order.. I did not know who Brent Bailey is/was so thanks for pointing him out to me... The sailor expression is " I like the cut of his jib".. From what I had seen he is a mighty fine smith and happy to be compared.. Please subscribe and like.. I have a whole bunch of other videos.. :) welcome to the channel..
You are awesome ! I'm impressed and inspired. Thank you
Welcome aboard. Glad you are here.. My pleasure. :)
Great job againAmaizing that blacksmiths ( good ones ) can take 1.75 lb.of steel and make anything that weighs 1.75 lb.
Can almost her you voice if I turn volume way up then hammering is also way up.
Love you videos....thanks
Thanks very much for the kind words.. It is pretty cool isn't it.. I too very much love that.. :)
@@jlpservicesinc1452 This Quad state group of blacksmith going to Troy Oh are you in on that Sept 26 and 27
@@johnjude2677 No.. I'm not part of that group..
@@johnjude2677 Sorry, no.. Not part of the group..
Great video
Thanks Ghost Forge.. Was fun.. A photo of the finished piece is here.. : photos.app.goo.gl/N9yHUyYy3C4Xjmc48
As usual, excellent video! I like the new intro, too
Thanks Kindly.. I thought it was fun.. I think many will think the upsetting is more than they want though.. a little more than 1.5hrs start to finish.. Not bad I think..
On the new intro looking for feedback.. Not to long? to short? feedback welcomed.. Thanks again.
@@jlpservicesinc1452 Intro is just the right length
@@shortfuse43 Thanks.. :)
Another good one. I have to get some Square bar and give it a go.
Thanks... round stock with the same volume of metal will work just as well.. Just square it as you upset it.. Also, 1" is just what I had on hand and would make the size flatter most would expect..
A smaller flatter can be awfully handy..
@@jlpservicesinc1452 I have a bunch of 3/4 square bar but no 1". I'm going to scrounge at the metal recycler and see what i come up with.
@@miteeoak Nice.. Looking forwards to your project.. let me know how you make out.. :)
Awesome and inspiring. Just subscribed
Thanks for watching and commenting.. It helps a lot on this side to see what people like or want to see so each comment is helpful.. Thanks again.. Best J.
New sub here, watched the project and read all the comments and responses. So no need for the myriad of questions I had now .
However am curious the method used to get your anvil dead quiet that way ,If you dont mind telling your secrets lol.
Great project and nice end results too. Talented hands that's for surely obvious.
🙏Blessings abundant
Crawford out 🧙♂️
An anvil rings because of vibrations. If an anvil is mounted solidly it will dampen nearly all the vibrations and the noise.
Check out the trailer build on the Facebook photo albums page or google page.
If you have a hard time finding it let me know. I'm posting this response from my phone..
@@jlpservicesinc1452, thank you very much. I doo loke the German-esk pattern anvils and plan that pattern as my 1st anvil
@@danielcrawford7315 the german pattern is the most versatile with little fan far or additons of extra tooling. the double horn makes it convenient. this pattern is a northern German pattern which has a sharp edge from the face to horn. This is handy for making chain but not for much else. it creates a lip that is higher than the horn so one can run the risk of hitting the face with the hammer when working over the horn..
The southern german anvil pattern is my favored type/shape. Refflinghaus #58 is a great example.
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Man, I am so glad you liked the other comment. I had some issues with the RUclips that erased most of my subscriptions, it could have been one of my Grandkids. And because I have this bruised Brain I couldn’t remember how to find you. Hay, could you tell me what that other place is called, it’s the place that all kinds of different people respond to question. It so good to see your instruction again.
Do you mean the forum.. Iforgeiron.com Glad to here you found us again.. Hope all is well.. Everything happens when its supposed to.. :)
If that is the case, there are a few videos new for you to watch to boot.. Good to see your around.. :) I was wondering where you disappeared to..
JLP Services Inc I saw you had new Videos up, I will view them later today, been up all night keeping critters safe. I know it’s got to be cold up there because the Frogs here are knocking on our doors trying to get warm. I will see you on I Forge Iron, if I can find my notebook with the sign in stuff.
@@gateway8833 Excellent, 0F when we went to bed.. I'd love to have frogs banging on the door to come in... Bless you and your critters.. the cold is tolerable but we also got snow and this just makes thing miserable for work type stuff..
JLP Services Inc If it snows here I stay off the roads. These folks just shrug off Hurricanes but give them a 1/4” of snow and there’s a run on little Debbies, chips and Pop, schools close and anything that resembles a slope will have kids frozen to it. It’s crazy. Do you get a break from shoeing?
@@gateway8833 Not really.. worked today in the 0F.. The owner was complaining about how cold it was..
I have a car with awd and 4 studded snow tires so can get around no matter what.. I take a day off and no pay.. Not only that, but where do I fit them back into the schedule.. I'd just as soon keep working and hope for the best.. We are all funny.. it helps to see this when we look..
Nice job!
You can use coal dust to keep your punch not soldering the hot piece.
(Sorry for my english, i'm french 😉)
Hello and welcome to the channel.. Yes for sure: , charcoal dust, coal dust, scale, etc, etc.. Just don't.. Haven't in years..
If I am punching a deep hole i might but very rarely now.. Thanks for commenting.. Please like and subscribe..
@@jlpservicesinc1452 I have just susbscribe but of course I have already like your vidéos 😉👍
@@Gr4nd_Pas Well, thank you very much.. I very much appreciate you taking the time to comment.. Best J..
VERY nice intro!
Thanks, More better? Find any mistakes?
Yes, more better! Have not had a chance to watch all of it yet. Was taking a break from plowing my Lane and my phone went off. We got 8 or 10 in of snow yesterday and last night. Will watch it first chance I get and get back with you. Thanks
@@johnmichael283 Thanks.. Sorry to hear about the snow.. Brrrrrrr..
Very nice flatter! I saw no mistakes, even if there were, the end product speaks for itself. You didn't sign it, did you? I think it deserves it!
That’s working for it🤯
Not really, barely broke a sweat.. :) Just a day in the life of a blacksmith.
JLP Services Inc I Smith and sweating is what I do best.☹️
EXCELLENT!
thanks.
Awesome video. Quick question though, and I hope it doesn’t come off as snarky because it’s not at all my intention. Why put a small taper on the end of the bar before you upset it?
Not snarky at all.. It's a great question.
it does several things.. It moves the center of the bar into a smaller section so the force being applied goes thru the center of the bar.. This help to keep the bar straighter during the upsetting. The mass (upset) needs to form further up the bar to start with.. If the end of the bar upsets first its' harder to keep things centered.
And it helps with fishmouths.. Tapering.. in this example it's not; as important unless the fish mouthing is really bad an creates a cold shut.
It's a progression.. I upset about 1"from the end first then allow for it all to upset.. This creates a better defined shoulder without it getting off center and no potential of cold shut behind the flatters face.. this would lead to a crack..
I know this is an old video but I'm hoping you still get notifications for comments. What is the purpose of striking the cold end at 3:45?
there was a burr on the bar from where it had been arc welded before and snapped apart (scrap piece). I snagged my thumb on it so I decided it was best to smooth it out. You can see the little weld bead get knocked off after a few blows with the hammer.
It doesn't matter how old the videos are.. As long as I get notifications I will respond..
A few times a month I come through and look for unanswered comments.
Hope you are well.
@@jlpservicesinc1452 Haha, here I was thinking it was some sort of trick for straightening the other end, lol
I'm well, thanks.
@@shainarue It's all magic till it's not.. :) Glad to hear it. :)
I thought these peddinghaus anvils came with an upsetting block on side ??? Also what size stock if don't mind me asking , you may have said I just didn't catch it I guess , you are awesome and I'm subscribed, love how you use subtitles and different camera angles , I can actually see now what really is going on blow for blow , awesome sauce
They do, I also have a huge upsetting block on the floor.. It's impossible to film in these spots so don't use them.. Same reason I dislike having to use the vise as it means more cameras to shuffle.. I have 4 cameras in use usually.. Ick..
1" 1018.. Scrap actually.. in part of the video I stop to knock off a welding bead chip.. Thanks.. Enjoy..
Share, like thanks for subscribing..
Great video! If to ever need a striker let me know. Im not far from you.
Hi George.. As long as you don't mind working with someone who is ill tempered, awe-nary, and fits of throwing thing.. :)..
I"m just joking.. :) I've been called intense.. :)
Is it 30x30 solid square stock you forged the flatter from 👍
25X25
Fantastic! I knew it could be done this way and it’s on my short list to try but this is my first time seeing someone actually make a flatter this way! Thanks!
Thanks.. It more than likely will be the only time you see it done this way, unless people start sharing the technique..
Most won't attempt this kind of forging and is the reason I posted it..
If you haven't checked out the channel yet, there are a bunch of videos on skill sets few talk about..
Few neat trick things also.. Welcome to the channel and please like and subscribe..
If you do use the techniques please share where you originally found the information.. Much appreciated.. Best J..
I never have understood why people make a flatter like this? I simply bought a piece of 3" round stock 4150. I slightly flatted two sides. Punched an eye. Put a piece of 1" square 4150 in the eye snugly for a handle and Welded top and bottom in place. Then rounded off the end of the bar where its held so it would be more comfortable. It works great. Its heavy and it doesnt bounce, and the weight helps me keep it perfect and parallel to the anvil face. Its basically a short nosed hammer. Its as long as it is wide and tall. Almost cube measurements
How long is never??
Classical designs. Today I think for much of it design-wise is misunderstood.
But also the ability to arc weld and use modern machinery changes the potential.
The other factor is how it is used. Many times the tool design hinges upon how its used.
My own personal preference is for this style of flatter. It will serve me for another 30 years.
With this said, if a person is using a power hammer and the tool design is such that it can serve at the anvil as well with a striker all the better.
I dont feel or think there is only 1 way or (the Best way) there are just ways which many times are dependent on the needed action at hand.
This video is simply a snapshot of one given aspect of making a certain tool.
Its certainly not the only way...
Covering all facets of making a flatter would mean making many more videos of which much of the information would be redundant.
Take it for what it is. Merely a way, but not the only way.
Is the hammer at 37:44 a Tor or hultafors? Looks very swedish.
It is a Swedish style hammer. Newly purchased about 6 years ago from Centaur forge. The Swedish pattern is my favorite when I'm doing a bunch of peen forging like on a thumblatch.
@@jlpservicesinc1452 nice!😊
This is good, have you ever thought about using a lube when punching, I use a mixture of linseed oil and beeswax, works good, and was wondering why punch so close to the curve near the flatter??
Thanks, I don't like punch lubes. . Never found one that I liked as I can't stand the way they make my hands, hammer and everything else they get on feel.. I used to use charcoal and coal dumped in the hole but really its a non issue..
When filming videos I take my time... the pace is about 1/2 what I normally work at.. You can see during the upset there are a few times that I start to move at normal mode..
I like my handles to be located near the face of the tool... this gives greater control with less deflection..
As the eye moves upwards you will need more to keep it from kicking..
There is also a golden rule of 3rds for striked tools as well as most other tools, scrolls etc, etc..
The next video I am thinking of doing will be a steeled set hammer.. Thanks again for commenting.. I appreciate your feedback and questions...
@@jlpservicesinc1452 Ok it's good to see what other blacksmiths like or don't like and thanks for the tips on the 3rds rule. And yes it makes sense now, the lower the handle area the better to control the tool. You must of started young you still look young to be doing this for what....40 yrs did you say??
@@lenblacksmith8559 Yes, it is.. Sharing information is wonderful..
My pleasure.. What I'm here for.. Using a lube on a punch press or deep punch or hydraulic press works well..
I don't use gloves so even when forge welding, borax will act like a lube and make things a little more slippery..
Wow, it will be 43 years next month.. Hard to believe..
If you haven't done it yet, check out the JLP Services inc photo albums on Facebook, lot of previous work photos..
facebook.com/pg/jlpsinc/photos/
I also got here from Old Hickory.
Thanks.. John at Old Hickory is a great guy.. Welcome to the channel..
What grade of steel are you using for the flatter? I'm digging the new intro, btw.
Plain old 1018 mild steel.. This will work for years on hot steel. I did quench it from yellow and if I wanted to i'd burn it a little and then quench it.. While I wouldn't suggest this method to smarty pants. I've used it in a pinch and I still have a few tools that are alive 30 years later.. :)
If you noticed the face is a little thicker... If I were going to be beating this up, I'd steel it or case harden it..
Thanks on the intro.. Not to long? Suggestions welcome.. Still not sure what I'm doing with it, figured it would be a starting point.. :) Thanks again.
@@jlpservicesinc1452 I didn't think it was too long, but that's just my opinion. I kinda figured this was mild steel and I agree that with proper care it should last a lifetime. Might have to dress the striking end, but you'd have to do that even with a tool steel.
@@jamesmcmillen4828 I just weld the whole thing back together when the striking end starts to split.. If I needed this to be a hard work tool, i'd steel it with some 5160 or 4140 face and call it a day.. Just like the old days.. Well sorta.. :)
Another great video Jen! Really enjoy watching you work. All traditional. Very inspiring. I may have to try this one seriously doubt that I could do it in the times you mention in the beginning but that's ok I just really liked the style and the fact you used 1" stock.. May I ask what kind of steel you used?
Hey Jim, plain old mild steel 1018.. Just take your time.. 1" is pretty big material if not used to working it.. Keep your temps up.. I have a shelf on the anvil and a upsetting block on the floor which would have made it much easier and faster to upset..
I just dislike having to move the cameras around so use the anvil.. with a 4 or 5' long bar 3 or 4 heats and youd be surprised how fast it moves.. Remember just to keep the heats up and the part upset centered to the parent bar..
if you do make one, I'd love to see it.. I love it when people actually use the techniques and report back.. I kinda get bummed when people say they saw a video on youtube on how to make something and don't give the name of the person who made the video.. :)
@@jlpservicesinc1452 In all seriousness I've seen your name mentioned several times already this year in 2 of the facebook blacksmith groups I belong to. A lot of people who are trying to learn smithing have heard of you and I myself have referred a number to your video's. You know your stuff! That is very evident. I have 20' of 1" square in my shop I am in the near future going to give this a try. Thanks for the info and I will let you know how I make out to include a few pictures. thanks again.
@@jjppres Thanks Jim.. and thanks for passing along the videos.. Can't wait to see your flatter.. As a starter making a set hammer is easier and the same basic method is used..
I might make a video to make a set hammer also.. :)
@@jlpservicesinc1452 Well I am having issues with the upset. I start with the taper then start to upset straight up and down. Then at an angle. Things appear fine at first and really working well and then I notice it is flaring on 3 sides and not the fourth. I cut off the bar and started anothe and the same thing happens. Flaring great on 3 sides and not the fourth. I am turnng 1/4 turn each time. Any idea what I'm doing wrong or how to correct the issue? Any help would be appreciated. Didn't know how to get in touch about this other than going back to the video.
@@jjppres The bar is getting pushed to one side.. Basically straightening one side.. You will need to push the side opposite the straight bar back in line with with the center of the bar.. If it is completely straight on the one side push the bar towards the straight side and keep going..
You actually have a side that is longer than the other..
I posted a thread to I forge iron which is located Here: www.iforgeiron.com/topic/61086-how-to-forge-a-flatter-no-swage-block-used/
This will allow for further discussion with pictures and fine tuning.. RUclips would be even better if there was a way to post a picture to the comments also..
Check in over there and we can get you going again..
I can only hope to achieve your skill level some day. I'm the kind of guy that would just weld a plate to a hammer. LOL
Thanks, but thats not blacksmithing.. Thats fabrication. Nothing wrong with that, if that is what one wants to do.. With that said, there is something about using a well made tool..
It really looks like more work than it was.. I really tried to avoid using the vise.. Besides if I make it look to easy.. I won't get all the accolades.. LOL..
@@jlpservicesinc1452 well I don't have a flatter yet. It is tempting to cheat but you made it look easy so maybe I'll give it a try. Thanks
@@grandadz_forge sounds good.. My pleasure..
ASMR
Thanks..
جميل جدا
Thank you..