You have the most amazing guide. For us novices, we appreciate the repetitive examples. May seem simple to the pros but confusing for us. Thank you sir!!!
By far, the absolute BEST EXPLANATION AND EASE of using a framing square. Most videos are too complicated and I can't math like most. Lol Great job!!👍👍
Thank you Uncle Gary for your tutorial vlog on how to make a rafter and measure it simple.Love your vlog I enjoy watching and I learned a lot how to use a trip - square Thank you again Uncle Gary god bless you.
I just wanted to thank you for the rafter layout video it was one of the best if not the best rafter layout I,ve seen on youtube!! stay safe and please keep the video,s coming ; Patrick
Any time I can avoid math is okay with me! I've watched a BUNCH of videos on how to do this and all left me totally confused. After watching yours, I walked away shaking my head at how absolutely easy it is and how needlessly complex it was made in other videos. Thanks a TON!
I’ve probably watched 7-8 different videos on this subject and this is buy far the easiest to understand. Only thing is I learned to hold the square with the tongue in the left hand and blade in right. Also move left to right. Either way great video, makes a lot more sense to me now.
It is starting to make sense I like that I could see ya actually do the deed vs. Staring at diagrams and listening to a bunch of really big words. Thanks. Now if I could just make sense of this double wide mobile's roof my mother had done I'd say 8 years ago. It is plywood and 2×4s and that's what I can see the ceiling has the stucture that once held the kitchen lighting covering what is holding the gable its the three tab roofing, 2×4 roof I think a 7/12 with a 12" to 14" overhang . As you can imagine its sagging outside. Inside its a damn mess. . I think every night is the trailer gonna collapse on me tonite. Thank for this clear and consider explanation. I'm going to tear the into the area this weekend . There is a 2×6 grid like framework that is connected to the high wall which happens to be the marriage wall that is connect with giant 16 penny galvanized nails and then,to the exterior wall . This 2×6 monstrosity is connected from the 2×4 's that run along the sheeting and also connect with that exterior wall. No clue what purpose this thing serves. I'm going to investigate. Washington State is heading into rainy and cold and the wind blows from the non insulated kitchen roof area. Thanks again to alk your subscribers I'm open for any info they can throw my way. Peace Correction the slope is closer to 6/12 but that was with a level and tape.
This is a great video for basic training on this. I had no idea how to do this at all, and now feel like I could do it if someone fed me the numbers. Speaking of which, where do those numbers come from? Thanks.
Thanks for explaining the Step-Off method for common rafters. Concise and clear; very well done! Many thanks! Question however, is there a reason why you flip over the framing square after your first cut mark (ridge cut mark) ?
I'm adding an inch to the height as I hope to do 1" cut at the bottom of the rafter to drop it into place (since I don't have an overhang for a good bird's mouth) - for a greenhouse.
I don't think you mentioned that if there is a Ridge Board that the rafters tie into at the top, you have to deduct half of the thickness of the ridge board for your rafter length calculation. Many times that Ridge board will be 2X something, so you will have to deduct 3/4 of an inch from your run to give you the right rafter length. Very important!
Hi Uncle Gary. I was wondering how to mark the length of your rafter if you have a total run of 72 inches (6 feet) and the height is 25 inches, and your length of the rafter (without an overhang) is a decimal number (like 76.2168). How do I measure that length with a framing square (or whatever the best way is)? Thank you.
8x8 shed with a 8 “ beam -1 1/2 beam width making my run 47 1/4 and a 8 inch overhang. I just minus the 3/4 between the bird’s mouth and the rafter top? Would the rise be at the top of the beam or bottom if it’s a 6/12 pitch?
Make a sample rafter with the birds mouth, measure the distance from the horizontal cut (where it sits on the outside of the wall) to the top edge of the rafter, should be around 3 or 4 inches, add the measurement to the rise, 6 inch x 4 feet = 24 inches plus the height of the birds mouth should give you the top of the ridge beam. I will make a quick video today with the answer Thanks for the idea Uncle Gary
The only thing I see you missed is you forgot to subtract for half the ridge beam width. So 1-1/2" ridge board would be 3/4" , so your birds mouth would go off by 3/4" and overhang 3/4" too long.. Nice , clear explanation though.
How do you cut rafters so they can sit flush on a roof for a gable roof? I need to attach the rafters to the roof and on boards that run like a v from where the ridge beam will sit flush on the center of the roof.
Great Question, sounds like you are trying to make a reversed gable with a valley. Thanks for the video idea and when it stops raining here I will make a video showing the simplest way of doing your project. It will be a mock-up on my own roof and it should answer your question. It may take a couple days depending on the weather. Thanks for the comment.
Use square to measure off span that has feet and inches.....out to out 10'-6" .And there is a kingpin or Kingpost diameter to figure for birdsmouth cut.
Maybe a dumb question but how do you know how high to the top? I want to build a 12x16 shed with an 8/12 pitch but I don’t know how high that would put it at the center. Do I just take 12 ft divide by 2, which would be 6 feet to the center, then do the 8/12 6 times? And then add whatever overhang I want?
if you are using shingles the manufacturer recommends the rise to be at least 3/12 or above I like to build to close match the surrounding buildings greater the pitch the better water and snow slides off 5/12 is easy to walk on and 8/12 or greater will give you some nice storage here's a tip pick up some rafter material and do a ground layout ( you don't need to cut them, but if you can cut the ends to will get practice and a better mock-up) just to see how each pitch looks its better to do a mock-up than build something you are not happy with good luck with your project oh yeah, the longer the overhang the dryer it keeps the siding when it rains and the cleaner the siding stays.
I think the seat cut should be done first since depending on it’s width and therefore whether the rafter rests higher or lower on the plate will alter the angles or pitch cuts of the rafter at top and end.
I think I understand what you are saying if you wanted a certain height at the peak. watch this video and I think it will explain the height difference you might be experience at the peak which you are compensating with a different peak and tail angle ruclips.net/video/Q2kRDCpFCxY/видео.html Please reply if it helped you thanks
Yes sir can you please make a simple video showing one with the run having inches and not just feet. For example my building is 16'1". The 1inch extra is to count for the half inch sheething. I will be using 2x6's and ridge beam is 1 1/2 thick. I also want a 16 inch overhang. 8 12 pitch. If you can please show me a video on how to do that i will pay you.
I am working on a video , well lets say I am on the 3rd, no, 4th recording the calculating process is not hard, the videos I recorded didn't show how easy it really is I will have one out soon Uncle Gary
With the square set to the correct pitch, step off the rafter to the nearest foot, mark that line, then , making sure you keep the square set to the right pitch, slide the square along as if you were stepping off another foot, but instead mark the extra inches you need using the blade of the square, usually if you want to add 1 to 6 inches, slide your square so that the last foot you marked is on the INSIDE of the tongue , 7 to 11 inches are easier with the line on the OUTSIDE of the tongue, remember that the you can use either the inside or outside of the square BUT you cannot use the inside of the tongue and the outside of the blade, or vice versa.
Hello, I use the speed sq. to layout my rafters. I having a very difficult time with the birds mouth! These are my measurements: 143.25 span...71-5/8 run...3/12 pitch...17.91 rise...73-13/16 diag. I make my 1st plum cut 3/12...measure down the board to 73-13/16 make 2nd plum cut...add10.5" for overhang. I come back to the 2nd plum cut...measure up 1-1/2 inch for the seat cut, then 3-1/2 inch cut. I finish off with cutting 3/4 inch for the ridge board...it doesn't fit!!! What am I doing wrong!!!
Thanks for the comment I made a mock-up using your numbers and I made a video that I will post in the near future I did find two things that might be giving you issues Birds mouth cut - you measured up 1 1/2" which was too deep. Please watch a video I just posted ( I used 3/12 for a pitch) ruclips.net/video/Z77D7IHF5Kw/видео.html Building code does mention 1 1/2" and that is the minimum they want sitting on the top plate not the depth. 1) square off the plumb line and slide it to the 3 1/2" mark, you will see the cut is about 3/4" deep 2) the rise is not the peak. To find the top of the peak you need to add the amount left on top of the birds mouth cut. 3 1/2 - 3/4 = 2 3/4" add this number to the rise and you will get the peak I will update this comment when I get the other video updated Don't worry, this is a common issue and I remember when I did the same thing. Thanks for watching and I hope this helped
You haven't subtracted half the thickness of the ridge board in your calculations which is normally 3/4",since the ridge board is normally 1 1/2" thick
8:03 The overhang marked for this board at the other end was FOURTEEN inches (and you seemed to be leaving a lot of waste at the top-cut end). Otherwise an unmistakably simple demonstration of how it's done.
You noticed the overhand, good catch. I had extra material (not very good stuff either) for the demonstration. Normally I would not waste that much. Thanks
Can you please help me out?!?! I’m doing a lean to style roof for my chicken coop and it’s a 12x12 run that I’m doing it on and I’m having trouble with the bird mouth and all I have is a speed square. Please help. I’m a visual learner!😂
I made a video showing a real simple way to make the birds mouths and here it it ruclips.net/video/Z77D7IHF5Kw/видео.html I hope this helped Thanks for watching
Great question. I used 4 inches for my width so the entire rafter would sit on top of a 4 inch wide wall. International Building Code requires a minimum of 1 1/2 inches to set on the wall top plate. I hope that helped. Thanks for watching
That birds mouth is too deep, shouldn't be more than 1/3rd, of the timber depth, put a fence or some stair stops on the square then the pitch is always set the same,
You are correct that this example does make a part of the rafter weaker. Any weakness would be at the overhang side of the building. You can cut a shorter birds mouth, ICC building code requires minimum 1 1/2" sit on the top plate of the wall. The weakness would become an issue in extreme snow load areas. If you were building in a snow load area you would use a rafter larger than 2x4. Thanks for the comment, I hope this video helps in your next building project.
The best rafter cut tutorial ever! With humor to go with it. Awesome! Thank you so very much for sharing .
Glad you enjoyed it!
i have seen alot of videos but so far yours are the best thank you for sharing
thanks
You have the most amazing guide. For us novices, we appreciate the repetitive examples. May seem simple to the pros but confusing for us. Thank you sir!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome stuff my man you simplified enough I finally got it thanks alot i definitely need a few repetitions but it finally clicked
You got this!
Big Dog thank you for this fun learning fundamentals
You bet
By far, the absolute BEST EXPLANATION AND EASE of using a framing square. Most videos are too complicated and I can't math like most. Lol Great job!!👍👍
You're very welcome!
The first video that didn't make my head hurt. Best example I have seen.
thanks
@@unclegarybuilds2023 can you do a video how to get hip rafter length plz
I have watched many "how-to" vids regarding rafters and this one is the best. Thank you.
thanks
Best video on framing rafter. Easy to understand. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Simple to the point..😊
I really enjoy your vids.
Glad to hear it
Thank you for your patience and knowledge. I certainly learned something!
thanks for the comment and watching
The Best rafter cut explanation video that I've have watched recently. Thanks very much for the details.👍👍
Wow, thanks!
Great job 😊
Thanks for the visit
Good teacher easy to understand thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Uncle Gary for your tutorial vlog on how to make a rafter and measure it simple.Love your vlog I enjoy watching and I learned a lot how to use a trip - square Thank you again Uncle Gary god bless you.
You are very welcome
Very good my friend nice one
Many thanks
Great video
Thanks for the visit
Simple example, that's what I needed. Thanks !
Glad it helped!
Simple easy method to learn. Thank you for teaching this.
Glad it was helpful!
Easy going to use on my carport rafters, best explanation.
Great to hear!
YES! Finally understandable steps! Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
Great learning experience
thanks
I just wanted to thank you for the rafter layout video it was one of the best if not the best rafter layout I,ve seen on youtube!! stay safe and please keep the video,s coming ; Patrick
Thanks for watching
Thank you.
Well done!
Our pleasure!
Any time I can avoid math is okay with me! I've watched a BUNCH of videos on how to do this and all left me totally confused. After watching yours, I walked away shaking my head at how absolutely easy it is and how needlessly complex it was made in other videos. Thanks a TON!
You are so welcome!
Thank you Uncle gary.youre genius🧠👍🌟😎
I try
Thanks for the info i really need that it's was so simple
Any time
Awesome video.👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi. Thanks for the great video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Vary good video. Thank you. You made it look easy and it is easy.
Glad you liked it!
Love your style, brother! Good information, too. Cheers. 🍻
Thank you! Cheers!
Awsome!👍👍👍
Thanks! 👍
This was the only one I could understand great video
thanks for the comment
Very helpful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Finally an easy way an fun to watch video. I’m a subscriber 🖖👍
Great, thanks
Brilliant🎉
thanks
Nicely explained
Thank you so much 🙂
I’ve probably watched 7-8 different videos on this subject and this is buy far the easiest to understand. Only thing is I learned to hold the square with the tongue in the left hand and blade in right. Also move left to right. Either way great video, makes a lot more sense to me now.
Awesome, thank you!
Good video
Glad you enjoyed
Very very good
Thanks
Good info
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir. I was trying to figure out my cuts on my 16’ by 20’. I’m doing a 5/12. So half of my shed is 10’. I think I got it.
Depends, when you are looking at the peak end of the building how wide is it. Good luck and have fun.
Some day show how to cut out wooden stairs.😎
I like using rafter tables on square figuring it mathematically. Easy.
I agree but there are some old squares that are hard to read. Nice to know both ways. Thanks for watching.
It is starting to make sense
I like that I could see ya actually do the deed vs. Staring at diagrams and listening to a bunch of really big words. Thanks. Now if I could just make sense of this double wide mobile's roof my mother had done I'd say 8 years ago. It is plywood and 2×4s and that's what I can see the ceiling has the stucture that once held the kitchen lighting covering what is holding the gable its the three tab roofing, 2×4 roof I think a 7/12 with a 12" to 14" overhang . As you can imagine its sagging outside. Inside its a damn mess. . I think every night is the trailer gonna collapse on me tonite. Thank for this clear and consider explanation. I'm going to tear the into the area this weekend . There is a 2×6 grid like framework that is connected to the high wall which happens to be the marriage wall that is connect with giant 16 penny galvanized nails and then,to the exterior wall . This 2×6 monstrosity is connected from the 2×4 's that run along the sheeting and also connect with that exterior wall. No clue what purpose this thing serves. I'm going to investigate. Washington State is heading into rainy and cold and the wind blows from the non insulated kitchen roof area. Thanks again to alk your subscribers I'm open for any info they can throw my way.
Peace
Correction the slope is closer to 6/12 but that was with a level and tape.
Thanks
This is a great video for basic training on this. I had no idea how to do this at all, and now feel like I could do it if someone fed me the numbers. Speaking of which, where do those numbers come from? Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! I will make a video about the numbers in the future. Thanks
I'm subscribed🇺🇸🇩🇴🇺🇸🇩🇴
great
Thanks for explaining the Step-Off method for common rafters. Concise and clear; very well done! Many thanks! Question however, is there a reason why you flip over the framing square after your first cut mark (ridge cut mark) ?
It's easier for me to mark the vertical line of the birds mouth. Thanks for watching.
I'm adding an inch to the height as I hope to do 1" cut at the bottom of the rafter to drop it into place (since I don't have an overhang for a good bird's mouth) - for a greenhouse.
hope this helps with your question
ruclips.net/video/Q2kRDCpFCxY/видео.html
Easy Peasy Mr. Uncle Gary, But what if you have a run of 9' 10 1/4" ? With a 13/12 pitch ? Please and Thank you
I don't think you mentioned that if there is a Ridge Board that the rafters tie into at the top, you have to deduct half of the thickness of the ridge board for your rafter length calculation. Many times that Ridge board will be 2X something, so you will have to deduct 3/4 of an inch from your run to give you the right rafter length. Very important!
👌
Simplified it thanks
Glad it helped
Hi Uncle Gary. I was wondering how to mark the length of your rafter if you have a total run of 72 inches (6 feet) and the height is 25 inches, and your length of the rafter (without an overhang) is a decimal number (like 76.2168). How do I measure that length with a framing square (or whatever the best way is)? Thank you.
8x8 shed with a 8 “ beam -1 1/2 beam width making my run 47 1/4 and a 8 inch overhang. I just minus the 3/4 between the bird’s mouth and the rafter top? Would the rise be at the top of the beam or bottom if it’s a 6/12 pitch?
Make a sample rafter with the birds mouth, measure the distance from the horizontal cut (where it sits on the outside of the wall) to the top edge of the rafter, should be around 3 or 4 inches, add the measurement to the rise, 6 inch x 4 feet = 24 inches plus the height of the birds mouth should give you the top of the ridge beam.
I will make a quick video today with the answer
Thanks for the idea
Uncle Gary
The only thing I see you missed is you forgot to subtract for half the ridge beam width. So 1-1/2" ridge board would be 3/4" , so your birds mouth would go off by 3/4" and overhang 3/4" too long.. Nice , clear explanation though.
Great video, should you not reduce half the ridge thickness? If you had some stair gauges make life a bit easier
yes that would work, thanks for watching
How do you cut rafters so they can sit flush on a roof for a gable roof? I need to attach the rafters to the roof and on boards that run like a v from where the ridge beam will sit flush on the center of the roof.
Great Question,
sounds like you are trying to make a reversed gable with a valley. Thanks for the video idea and when it stops raining here I will make a video showing the simplest way of doing your project.
It will be a mock-up on my own roof and it should answer your question.
It may take a couple days depending on the weather.
Thanks for the comment.
Use square to measure off span that has feet and inches.....out to out 10'-6" .And there is a kingpin or Kingpost diameter to figure for birdsmouth cut.
Maybe a dumb question but how do you know how high to the top? I want to build a 12x16 shed with an 8/12 pitch but I don’t know how high that would put it at the center. Do I just take 12 ft divide by 2, which would be 6 feet to the center, then do the 8/12 6 times? And then add whatever overhang I want?
Yes if you are looking for the length of the rafter.
Thanks for watching.
I’m building a 12x16 shed. My span is 12ft so my run would be 6ft. What would you recommend for my rise?
if you are using shingles the manufacturer recommends the rise to be at least 3/12 or above
I like to build to close match the surrounding buildings
greater the pitch the better water and snow slides off
5/12 is easy to walk on and 8/12 or greater will give you some nice storage
here's a tip
pick up some rafter material and do a ground layout ( you don't need to cut them, but if you can cut the ends to will get practice and a better mock-up) just to see how each pitch looks
its better to do a mock-up than build something you are not happy with
good luck with your project
oh yeah, the longer the overhang the dryer it keeps the siding when it rains and the cleaner the siding stays.
I would assume you would reduce the distance between the ridge cut and the birds mouth by half the thickness of a ridge beam?
yes that is correct. Thanks for watching
On the tail cut why did you do a 5/12 instead of a 6/12?
I think the seat cut should be done first since depending on it’s width and therefore whether the rafter rests higher or lower on the plate will alter the angles or pitch cuts of the rafter at top and end.
I think I understand what you are saying if you wanted a certain height at the peak.
watch this video and I think it will explain the height difference you might be experience at the peak which you are compensating with a different peak and tail angle
ruclips.net/video/Q2kRDCpFCxY/видео.html
Please reply if it helped you
thanks
Yes sir can you please make a simple video showing one with the run having inches and not just feet. For example my building is 16'1". The 1inch extra is to count for the half inch sheething. I will be using 2x6's and ridge beam is 1 1/2 thick. I also want a 16 inch overhang. 8 12 pitch. If you can please show me a video on how to do that i will pay you.
I am working on a video , well lets say I am on the 3rd, no, 4th recording
the calculating process is not hard, the videos I recorded didn't show how easy it really is
I will have one out soon
Uncle Gary
With the square set to the correct pitch, step off the rafter to the nearest foot, mark that line, then , making sure you keep the square set to the right pitch,
slide the square along as if you were stepping off another foot, but instead mark the extra inches you need using the blade of the square, usually if you want to add 1 to 6 inches, slide your square so that the last foot you marked is on the INSIDE of the tongue
, 7 to 11 inches are easier with the line on the OUTSIDE of the tongue,
remember that the you can use either the inside or outside of the square BUT you cannot use the inside of the tongue and the outside of the blade, or vice versa.
it good to keep at least 2/3rd of material on plumb cut on birds mouth for strength.imo
Good tip!
The best I've seen thanks
Hello, I use the speed sq. to layout my rafters. I having a very difficult time with the birds mouth! These are my measurements: 143.25 span...71-5/8 run...3/12 pitch...17.91 rise...73-13/16 diag. I make my 1st plum cut 3/12...measure down the board to 73-13/16 make 2nd plum cut...add10.5" for overhang. I come back to the 2nd plum cut...measure up 1-1/2 inch for the seat cut, then 3-1/2 inch cut. I finish off with cutting 3/4 inch for the ridge board...it doesn't fit!!! What am I doing wrong!!!
Thanks for the comment
I made a mock-up using your numbers and I made a video that I will post in the near future
I did find two things that might be giving you issues
Birds mouth cut - you measured up 1 1/2" which was too deep. Please watch a video I just posted ( I used 3/12 for a pitch)
ruclips.net/video/Z77D7IHF5Kw/видео.html
Building code does mention 1 1/2" and that is the minimum they want sitting on the top plate not the depth.
1) square off the plumb line and slide it to the 3 1/2" mark, you will see the cut is about 3/4" deep
2) the rise is not the peak. To find the top of the peak you need to add the amount left on top of the birds mouth cut. 3 1/2 - 3/4 = 2 3/4" add this number to the rise and you will get the peak
I will update this comment when I get the other video updated
Don't worry, this is a common issue and I remember when I did the same thing.
Thanks for watching and I hope this helped
You haven't subtracted half the thickness of the ridge board in your calculations which is normally 3/4",since the ridge board is normally 1 1/2" thick
you are correct
thanks for watching
it's actually a 6/12 slope and a 1/4 pitch.
8:03 The overhang marked for this board at the other end was FOURTEEN inches (and you seemed to be leaving a lot of waste at the top-cut end).
Otherwise an unmistakably simple demonstration of how it's done.
You noticed the overhand, good catch. I had extra material (not very good stuff either) for the demonstration. Normally I would not waste that much. Thanks
Can you please help me out?!?! I’m doing a lean to style roof for my chicken coop and it’s a 12x12 run that I’m doing it on and I’m having trouble with the bird mouth and all I have is a speed square. Please help. I’m a visual learner!😂
I made a video showing a real simple way to make the birds mouths and here it it
ruclips.net/video/Z77D7IHF5Kw/видео.html
I hope this helped
Thanks for watching
sorry please explain why 4 for the birds mouth
Great question.
I used 4 inches for my width so the entire rafter would sit on top of a 4 inch wide wall.
International Building Code requires a minimum of 1 1/2 inches to set on the wall top plate.
I hope that helped.
Thanks for watching
That birds mouth is too deep, shouldn't be more than 1/3rd, of the timber depth, put a fence or some stair stops on the square then the pitch is always set the same,
you are right, thanks for the comment
What’s with the music not necessary
I hear you and will stop putting it in future videos
I really couldn’t understand you with the music being too loud 👎
I will make the music lower in future videos
thanks for watching
Something looks wrong. You are cutting away nearly half of the rafter with that bird's mouth. This has got to be weak.
cause 2 by 4s are actrully 1 and a half by 3 and a half because how they process it
You are correct that this example does make a part of the rafter weaker.
Any weakness would be at the overhang side of the building.
You can cut a shorter birds mouth, ICC building code requires minimum 1 1/2" sit on the top plate of the wall.
The weakness would become an issue in extreme snow load areas.
If you were building in a snow load area you would use a rafter larger than 2x4.
Thanks for the comment, I hope this video helps in your next building project.
I'm sorry but the music is annoying.
You are not the first to say that and I will lower the music in future videos
Thanks for watching
@@unclegarybuilds2023 I say it in the sense that it covers the speech and I can't concentrate on what you are saying.Thanks!
That was well made sir could not get any easier
thanks