Rocket Stove Heater Build
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This is my build of the very popular rocket stove heater. It's how I heat the workshop in the winter and it's very efficient. I've got some mods in mind for another video but I'm eager to hear your suggestions.
The gas bottle I am using is decommissioned and is scrap as it was no longer suitable as a pressure vessel. Gas bottles are generally owned by the gas companies until they die. Please don't go and destroy a gas bottle that isn't yours.
Dimensions/Materials:
Gas bottle (I'm using a 47kg bottle) 1100 x 370mm
J-Tube - feeder tube 440mm - horizontal 500mm - vertical 900mm
All the box section is 100 x 100 x 5mm
Any questions please ask.
"Electrodoodle" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
creativecommons...
"Presenterator" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
creativecommons...
Hi David! It has been 7 years since you made this video, but it just came up while I was browsing. I like your heater, and I think that I'll start looking in the scrap yards for the raw materials to make one. I thought that I'd pass along some things I have seen in other videos. 1) The feed tube should be as close to the vertical burn tube as possible. The fire will be hotter. 2) Have an air inlet at the bottom of the burn tube. On yours, you could put a shutter. on the horizontal tube. It takes a good supply of oxygen to burn the wood gasses. It might improve the burn if you put a cover on the end of the feed tube and have an air shutter on that tube. It seems to be a balance between getting the right amount of air to the initial burn area, and the secondary (wood gas) burn. 3) Insulate the tubes that are outside of the gas bottle, and insulate the vertical burn tube inside the bottle. You might be able to use larger tube, round or square, around your square tubing and put vermiculite or pearlite in this area, then make a cap to keep the insulation in the larger tube. The idea is to keep the fire very hot to burn the wood gasses. The heat will then go into the area around the vertical tube, and heat the gas cylinder. 4) You may want to add some more tubing to the chimney pipe. There can be a high pressure area near the roof which will limit the draw of the chimney. 5) The vertical burn chamber may work best if the top of it is about 2 inches (25mm) below the top of the gas bottle. 6) Remember the old U.S. Navy saying "If something does not fit, use a larger hammer".
thanx for your comments
You need to add pictures of your mods
I saw a guy make a rocket water heater. He found some parts at the recycle place. Found a coil of copper tubing for cheap. Maybe cheaper than the boneyard at the welding shop
@@chuckheinch I finally made a rocket stove. All of the materials came from a salvage store where they have used metal pieces, but it is all well sorted. I made it out of mostly 4 inch square tubing, and I discovered a few things. I noticed that if the fire was small, the secondary burn would go out, and it would smoke. The area where this happens needs to be insulated. Vermiculite is good, but there is high temperature insulation for stoves and furnaces that is like the fiberglass insulation in a house. I'm thinking of trying this on my stove. I suppose that I could take a junk gas or electric stove apart for the insulation.
@@garylangley4502 what your saying is interesting. Do you know of any video links that you could post so I can see what you mean?
Probably the best and most practical build I have seen. This design seems to be the most simple and effective rocket heater. You can probably coil copper tubing around it and would be able to heat water or on the interior.
Finally, the industrial strength solution built to last. As I'm sure you are aware, most DIY videos integrating the bell type combustion chamber use thin walled chemical barrels. This should eliminate any chance of burn through from repeated long term heat cycles.Bonus the curved upper surface assists flow reversal. Thanks for the proof of concept ! My plasma torch and MIG are calling.
Purged my bottle a couple years ago. Starting build this month.
I check out this video periodically.
Mostly for the soundtrack.
Well I was going to ask what the dimensions of the J tube were but then I saw the show more button and that answered the questions I had. This was very informative and showed me a lot. Can't wait to scrounge up enough metal to build one myself on the cheap, as I already have the gas bottle, plasma cutter, and welder. As for the music if I don't like what I hear I just turn it down or take my hearing aid out HA HA that also works with the wife.
Best, most simplistic build I've seen so far!
Perfect application for a powerplasma cutter. I'm sure you are glad you had one for this heater as it probably saved you a ton of time. I like the huge size of the heater. That should heat up pretty hot.
Welds like a freaking pro.
Oh wait.
He is a pro.
Good job.
Good video.
Loaded with info.
I keep a finger on the pause and rewind a lot to get a closer look on many items. Pausing by (my) choice is a lot better than dead time.
As stated many times, insulating the burn chamber is the biggest thing I would change and for me, not hard weld the feed tube as there are numerous adjustments and tinkering with this to find the best setup (per end use.)
Thanks for the effort.
I am not a welder, I just play one on the internet.
Thank you, I have the same tank at work, I'm going to get started soon. Will provide pictures of the progress.
It's ok.. The thing is, you will need to put sticks into it every 10 - 15 mins.. oil drip feed is the way to go with this heater. 👍🏻
Wood pellets would solve that.
It has been 5 years - how about an update? Longevity? Tuning Tips? Adjustments?
Dang, that thing is gonna last forever. Awesome job.
With an uninsulated metal heat riser it's possibly going to either melt or corrode out. Its very unlikely to work correctly
The Best Rocket Heater video i seen fo far, hate the music, love the video, Thanks
great Job,
Karlos Brooklyn NY
+CarlosB Martinez Thanks, it's totally ok to hate the music.
Where can I buy the music, id like to burn the CD in my new stove. Great video guys
Aww. Kevin MacLeod will be so sad.
Hello Steve, now put you, your oun rocket, I want to learn. Thank you. Anna
LOL !!!
LOOOOOOOOL You killed me.
LOL . best ever.
The safety tips at the start of the video is very insightful. Thanks!
What a cool design David and decent video., bet it puts out the heat in no time. Do you know how much heat kw wise it produces. Would be nice if could run on waste oil, might be a nightmare to clean out tho lol.
Best video yet of clarity
Cool idea. The video games music had me hitting stop about half way in.
Great video. Simple and to the point.
Much appreciated!
Did it last longer than 1 year from burnout of the metal with standard rocket burn temps of 2000 F. Most metal won't. Just curious!
He didn't respond to your question so that means it probably lasted about 20 minutes
I made one almost exactly like this one but have some problems. Will burn ok with kindling but not with heavier wood (even 2x1) and draught seems to reduce when it gets warmer. I have the inside flue insulated. I'm going to shorten the burn chamber and insulate it hopefully for better results.
What size chimney are you using? I had problems when my chimney was too short and it would only burn well on a really windy day, with the wind helping the draw.
Thanks for your response. Its a 10mm diameter single skin steel pipe 4m long but height is not a problem as I'm using it outdoors at present for test burning. I have shortened the burn chamber but still only works well using kindling. I will put some lagging on the chimney when I finally install it in my workshop and hopefully it will run better then.
Super design, thank you!
Love the heater! Thank you!
Fine welding man
Man you got all the cool tools lol
Really awesome build. Well made. I bet it throws out a ton of heat.
Well done!! Personally I would've burnt the gas bottle clean before the build .. those paint fumes won't do any good, methinks .. they're quite toxic ✌
Brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
I applaud your design ! truly the traditional Rocket stove ! however sense small scraps of wood are a P.I.T A. why not make a basket out of stainless steel and use wood pellets ? it's easier by far than making big wood pieces smaller !
.... the size of the stove you made is HUGE ! it should run you out of the place when it's up and running real good ! LOL
I would suggest a slightly bigger exhaust pipe and connector to the tank .... "easy flow" is most important !
I have built a Rocket stove from scrap round tubing 3" in diam. and went with a 4" exit from the stove allowing the gasses to escape easy is very important ! , though I haven't tried my stove out yet it should do great for my tiny shop !
....Bob......
Wonderful video, You do very nice work.
Great video, very informative. Thanks.
Woops, no ash door? You will have the exhaust pipe off and be sucking ashes out of the pipe a lot. Your out pipe will start plugging up quick, you should have put it up a few inches..
Just remember you have to burn the exterior paint off the canister before interior installation.
Veeeeeryyyyy goooood David, it is the best idea of tooday, sorry for my bad inglish. See you soom. Anna
Love the music!
МОЛОДЦЫ ЭТИ МАРИО!
How did you choose the size of the exhaust pipe diameter ? How did you decide the internal dimensions of the tubing ??? Nice work fella. Hope to make me one soon.
VERY simple!! Just what I was looking for…
It's been 8 years. How's the chimney inside the tank holding up. I've seen people who said not to build it from steel. Once the combination of the wood gas starts the temperature can rise to 2,000 F. Spalling starts to take place and it simply crumbles. Not dangerous but that ends the combustion of the wood gas
Long gone. Went to a liquid fuel based heater.
I suggest you put your air intake outside to prevent your heater from sucking your warm shop air and blowing it up you chimney.
This will be the one i will be making and copying from....
I was wondering why you didn't run the flu pipe up on the inside of the building which would have given maximised the amount of heat inside the building, instead of heat loss wasted on the outside?
The flue pipe I was using was insulated. Just because that's what I had. If you were to use non-insulated flu pipe then running it up the inside is an excellent idea.
That is a nice build so tell us why you used elbows for the chimney and not go straight thru the wall then up?
I had planned to do some sort of heat recovery on that portion of the exhaust. But it never happened.
Fill in the top hole with weld??!!??? Just thread in a pipe plug!
+LincTexPilot If you have a pipe plug, then yes, do that.
forget the plug, this guy welds without apologies.
Pipe plugs are for sissies
Just put back the valve you removed in the beginning
Gonna have to make me one now
It is much safer to use a sawsall with a metal cutting blade to cut the tank. The plasma cutter and the metal cutting discs on hand held grinders produce much more heat.
Stephen Mandracchia I guess if he had a week and a half to do it.
can you show us or describe hoe to build a copper coil inside the rocket to heat 40 gallon water tank ?
get yourself a metal box... drill 2 holes fitting your tubes going to your water tank and back... weld the box to a side of your stove... (tip: the thinner the thickness of the metal from the stove side the better heat exchange is - but think about safety first too...................) Connect the tubes.... check for leaking. That's it. The difference in temperature between the water in your tank and the one from the box creates a natural water circulation...
Have fun.
You want to wrap your copper coil around the outside the top of these tanks will reach 1000 degrees when it when it comes up out of that riser a lot more convenient and easier to install around the tank and prettier for cover pipe
Nice vid, and thanks for not using nerve wrecking music :)
I want to do it, because I only want it to warm up at night. I think a good portion of wood would be enough to sleep happily.
Run all that vertical pipe inside to heat building the vent out in top!
I'd agree if it was normal flue pipe, but I was recycling insulated flue pipe so it had no benefit running inside.
Well Big Dave, You are a very skilled welder! I like your technique when guiding the plasma cutter. But I am wondering what is the point of the tank? Just to hold heat and radiate? If so maybe more mass? And the music is a bit redundant though.
Brew Master That's exactly what the tank is for. I've got a fan that blows down over it to keep the heat moving. The music is mostly to cover up the silence or the compressor running.
David McLuckie Hi Dave,
Nice video... If you don't like the sound of the compressor or whatever... why don't you just delete the audio ?
Thanks for the video... Cheers :)
Nice build...but that music makes me want to stab out my ear drums after about 30 seconds
I wanna plasma cutter like that!
Choice, nice one
How to build a rocket stove heater in under 11 minutes. Awww yissss.
Makes me think about making one for the garage. could you not have some more exhaust pipe inside for extra heating or does it chuck out enough heat like that?
You could have more chimney inside yes. I've seen some with the chimney snake about before going outside. You also get chimney heat exchangers that look like huge intercoolers. The chimney I got (for free) is double walled so it doesn't give out much heat. Unlike the gas bottle, which get's untouchable. One day I'll paint it black as well.
Cool, considering I might eventually put some gym stuff in the garage a heat source will probably be needed in winter. Need to give it a good clean and paint the floor first
do you not have to insulate the feed tube and the internal riser?
It will be even more efficient if you do. But if you haven't got the insulation to do it, it'll still work.
Awesome job! The only thing that I wonder about is this...after it's been running for a while and apparently gets red hot, over time won't the top weaken and burn out? I'm following your lead and building one but I was thinking of cutting a round 1/4" thick plate and welding it to the inside top to reinforce the strength of the steel on the top and then welding a scrap brake rotor to the outside top to act as an element and further absorb/distribute the heat. What do you think?
Yes. The more mass there is the longer the heater will last. And the more thermal mass you have, yes it'll take longer to heat up, but it'll also hold the heat for longer.
Awesome vid, great instructions. Most of all, awesome tune!
Need to put some sort heat saving inside gas bottle apart from that good video
I really need a plasma cutter... And a shop! LoL
Awesome job on the video.how's it working out for you..no puff backs of smoke and a good clean burn
There were one or two puff backs but I've since made an anti downdraft lid for the chimney. Once it's up to temperature there is practically zero smoke.
Any simple "Convert a gas cyclinder to a basic stove" - open at top, front door on a hinge style vids
Thanks
Why not put a pipe plug instead
Do you think you could have upped the efficiency by insulating the heat riser and firebox?
Very yes.
Давиде, извесно време касним !, ваш пројекат је ОК, али цев за гасове требало je да буде унутар хале и да изађе кроз кров !, то све због махсималног коришћења топлотне енергије !!!, С поштовањем (Србија)
" How do you know if you have removed all the gas?....." You'll know... LOL
Unscrew the complete valve assembly, I filled mine with water and then drained it to be 100% sure
Frank. You need to fill it with water to expel the gas, eitherwise BOOM.
I just put my air hose inside with full flow for 15minutes. No explosion!
I really enjoyed your video but noticed one thing. You didn't add an external air intake. In my opinion every rocket stove without an external air intake is useless.
I think useless is maybe a bit harsh.
David McLuckie OK maybe I exaggerated. Did you measure the external temperature of the tank from top to bottom?
Negative, I lacked a suitable tool for testing that. Except for roughly feeling with hands. The top was the hottest, cooling the further down you went. Enough heat that I had to open the door on occasion to cool the place down a little.
Cool
The riser pipe inside should be insulated?
It should be yes. And I did but didn't show it. I used exhaust heat wrap.
You could pump the tank full of Argon to force the propane out.
Why you did not let chimney inside of a garage, in this way you get more heat !
Because I was recycling insulated flue.
Great placement, right next the the giant shop door...
Great video, scuse ignorance how do you remove ash?
The little door at the front of the J tube.
@@DavidMcLuckie Doh!!!! Should'a gone to Specsavers 😂😂
Looks good. Any feedback ? Any improvments suggestions ?
Lots of people have said to insulate the burn chamber.
Either way that heat is being dumped into your shop though.
I liked the design
My only question is why the chimney on the bottom ?
Won’t the exhaust have to be on top ?
So the hot gasses have time to transfer heat into the sides on the way down to the exhaust. If it just went up a lot of the heat would go straight out the chimney.
It was a bit quick, but there is tube running up inside the cylinder, so the gas goes up, down and then gets sucked through the chimney at the base
im here screaming you are going to burn the paint off your barn steel outside! but you know that
I keep seeing y'all use square tubing, and I wonder if round tube (pipe) would be as effective. Mind, round pipe is far more difficult to shape properly, pretty much requiring that one jig that lets us use a Hole Saw. What's your thoughts?
I used square as that's what I had. But you are correct about shaping round requiring a bit more work. And more welding to fill in the gaps. ;)
@@DavidMcLuckie TY!. Now, I'm wondering if there might be a difference between the shapes, in burn and efficiency.
No perlite for insulation?
Did you insulate the inner pipe..some say no need to with a tall outside chimney
That's interesting. I suppose the hotter you can keep the burn chamber the more complete a burn you get. Which would be both cleaner and more efficient. Something to think about if I build another. Thanks.
Not filled with sand?
Time to upgrade.
It's long gone.
Sorry for the question but before I build this , is it going to melt into a mess, eg does this burn nice and hot still after these years, is it worth building? A big rocket stove in general for a workshop.
I switched to diesel fired heating. When it was going it was fine but sometimes it took longer to light than I was going to spend in the workshop.
@@DavidMcLuckie thanks very much, I need a rapid heat solution too, will keep looking :) tks very much
Does the iron burnchamber stand the heat? I thought it should be made with firebricks(?)
Lau Fowler Petersen It's not so much a case of being able to withstand the heat. What you're trying to do is keep the burn chamber as hot as possible to completely burn the fuel (wood). In a revision I've fully wrapped my metal burn chamber in ceramic bandages so it stays hotter.
I'm very interested/keen to replicate what David McLuckie has built here, only question I have is how would one insulate the the riser, once installed?? TIA Tom
Insulating before installation would be the ideal way. But I suppose you could cut the outer housing off, insulate and then reweld it back together.
Thinking about making the top removable with 2 or 3 snap clips and woodstove insulating cord providing the seal so the top can be removed and modified over time as the heat maybe weakens the steel on top. Everything else should last forever I think!
Hello.
The j part can be from pipe? And bigger diameter like 15cm?
It is for loading more wood?
And what is the distance between the top vertical j to the up gaz tank,it seems like 10cm is it?
How important is this distance
davidmcluckie.com/2014/11/14/rocket-stove-heater/ Some dimensions on there. I tried the keep the distance at the top the same size as the distance from the sides.
Have you noticed your burn chamber and inner fire tube have corroded or "dissolved" as it were, from the high heat generated there? I'm building a RMH and my friends are all cautioning me not to use the 11 gauge steel I'm building the thing out of. They say after about a dozen burns, all the steel will be gone! Your thoughts?
11 Gauge, that's 3mm? I used 5mm and it will be a long time before its even thinking about burning through. Are your friends basing any of their assumptions on science or just speculation?
Its science. The heat from a complete burn of the exhaust can get up over 2500 degrees. Steel can literally burn inside a heat riser and then it won't matter how thick it is. Since this riser is not insulated though, its highly unlikely to perform as efficiently as it is supposed to. The build quality is great, but without an insulated riser its kind of missing the point of a RMH
howdie I,m Old School what wood the Measurement,s Be In Standard inches thank you how thick is the tubing used ya hav done good work keep it up do more for the pore People thank you will keep warm this winter hopin put fan behind it and away I Go Farmer
Gas bottle (I'm using a 47kg bottle) 43 x 14.5 inches
J-Tube - feeder tube 17 inches - horizontal 20 inches - vertical 36 inches
All the box section is 4 x 4 x 0.2 inches
Fan is a good idea to help spread the heat around.
how far from the top of bottle was the tube on the inside..please use " inches..
Approx 6 inches
I am looking to see how you will ignite the secondary gas at 500 deg. Far. . . i.e. I didn't see you put any baffles above the burn area in the drawing you show the square tube extending up near the top of the propane tank . . this doesn't permit secondary gas to circulate to ignition and twice as much wood will be required to maintain sufficient temperature for ignition of these gases for efficiency . I will add these baffles inside the burn area to avoid burning twice as much fuel. These secondary gases can cause a fire in older homes and the flue temperature should stay below 200 deg. F. if they are burned in the fire chamber and the heat circulated in mass will lower flue temperature to near zero emissions.
Will you be adding a catalytic element as well, I've seen some of the high end heaters using that? Mine was just a simple build and I switched to oil burning a while ago.
Somebody knows whats he used to cut the iron? Láser? It's great. Sorry for my English.
Not a lazer just a plasma cutter. Similar to this - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CUT-40A-IGBT-INVERTER-AIR-PLASMA-CUTTER-METAL-CUTTING-MACHINE-ARC-12mm-CUT/282321633877?hash=item41bbae4255:g:H6sAAOSwCBtbfZs-
Is this 4" tubing? Also..how far from the top is your riser tube? Thanks!
+Steve Horton It's nearer 5 inch but 4 inch will work. The riser is about 6 inches from the top.
how do you clean the ash out
From the little door at the bottom of the J tube.
would like to know where to buy that plasma cutter!
On Ebay you can but almost anything for cheap
Thank goodness I've got my everlast plasma cutter. I can't imagine making that many cuts with an angle grinder.
I suppose that piece stay inside forever
How much would you sell a Rocket Stove Heater ?
Fantastic video! Is there a rule of thumb for how big the j-tube has to be in relation to the diameter of the gas tank? Also, how close to the top of the tank should the j-tube be?
There probably is. But I just used what I had. As for the space at the top, I made it so that the top space roughly matched how far away from the side walls the tube was. I hope a more knowledgeable viewer might also answer your question
Thank you! are you happy with the heat that yours puts out?
It's great when it's windy. Which I think means my chimney outside is too short and doesn't produce enough draw.
Yes! Fantastic video! I like the gas tank idea! But here's a few thoughts I had when you asked about j-tube in relation to the tank- I don't believe that makes a difference, what does is the relation of the j tube to the size of the exhaust coming out. The exhaust should be the same size or bigger.
From what I've seen in the making of rocket stoves out of 55 gallon drums is about an inch from the top of the j tube to the top of the barrel- that helps with the secondary reburn of the gasses or smoke.
David I think that the reason you don't have the best draft is because the j tube isn't insulated and it's not close enough to the top of the tank. You'll get a better draw when the gas inside the j tube is hotter than the burnt gas going down to the exhaust pipe. Great video tho! If you get bored and want to experiment cut the top off and add some to the top of the j tube keeping it about an inch from the top of the tank, I (think) that will help with the heat and efficiency that it burns at. I'm not sure anything but insulating the j tube will help with draw. That's why I'm watching these videos lol, I haven't found an easy way yet to insulate it!.. I'll stop rambling now lol.. thanks for the video!!!
I've seen that the best way to insulate the Jtube is to attach a bigger diameter pipe around it and fill the void with Vermiculite. For instance, if your Jtube is 4 inches, put an 8 inch diameter pipe around it, roughly the same height, weld it in place, and fill the empty space with Vermiculite. Thats what I've seen at least
The bass player rocks. Music to be waterboarded by
I don’t want to get into a argument here but have to say like others who’ve commented here cutting the bottle open with a plasma cutter worries me a bit, I’m actually in the process of making an oil burner, at the moment I’ve only got as far as taking the valve off and filling it with water and left it standing for two days then emptied it, even a week later there’s still a good smell of gas that comes from the hole at the top where the valve/tap was, surely even cutting into it with a angle grinder is gonna give enough spark for an explosion ☄️
It's a fair comment. But I can only go by the experience I had and what I had read online with regards to cutting. I did just fill it with water, empty it out and cut with the plasma cutter.
Cutting the bottle open is always the worrying bit for most people. Here's my method and I'm still alive having done a lot of them - not just for rocket stoves. Fill the bottle completely with water. Keep the bottle upright and start cutting horizontally along the part of line. Stop when a leak appears and let the excess water drain off. These days I normally continue the cut once the water is clear as the small open volume left cannot possibly contain 12% propane (the flammability limit). However, in the early days, for a 'belts and braces job' I used to turn my MIG wire feed down to zero tape up the trigger and stick the nozzle in the valve hole. Job Done.
Will you fit a secondary air intake for gasification ?.Paul
My rocket stove has been replaced with something else now.
Ok what did you build ? then.paul.
I spot a scooby !
Yeah, we've got a few in the family. And a RWD drift one.
Is your floor level? If not, need to square lol
I don't think anything is square or level in there. :)