insofast.com/explore/adhesive-attachment/ Loctite PL Premium’s 3X Stronger Construction Adhesive on clean concrete surfaces. It is the adhesive we recommend. Other formulas and brands may not work as expected. The technic you are describing is called flashing. The adhesive manufacturer has other tips and suggestions: www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/directions/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm Preparation Use above 40°F (4°C). Surfaces must be clean, dry and free of frost, grease, dust and other contaminants. Pre-fit all materials and protect finished surfaces. If using cartridge format, cut nozzle at a 45° angle to desired bead size and puncture inner seal. Be very careful not to allow Loctite® PL® Premium to cure on a finished surface. Application Apply adhesive to one surface of the material being bonded. Press the surfaces firmly together. Materials may be repositioned within 45 minutes after applying the adhesive. If bonding two non-porous surfaces (such as foam, metal and fiberglass), add water in the form of a very light or atomized spray from a plant mister bottle to the extruded adhesive. The repositioning time will then be reduced to less than 30 minutes. Use mechanical support for 24 hours while the adhesive cures. Flashing exposes the polyurethane adhesive to moisture, "humidity," that will aid and accelerate the adhesive's set time.
Jeff- the answer is yes. Here are a couple of links that will go into more detail: insofast.com/explore/hanging-tvs-and-cabinets/ and insofast.com/explore/how-strong-is-the-insofast-stud/
Off topic curious question: R10 in 2" is good, but vastly eclipsed by polyrurethane spray on foam, which would be R20 in the same thickness. Why can't the panels be formed/manufactured with polyurethane instead of the white stuff? Can I buy just the plastic studs w/out the foam attached?
Terrill it depends on the application. Building codes are pretty clear on their requirements of having foam insulation covered with something like drywall if it is used in a habitable living space. Paint over foam insulation does not give you a very durable protective surface...it will get dinged and dented.
How is product installed when the foundation wall thickness changes from bottom to top, wall is 12'' at bottom 3', 10" for the next 2' and 8" for the next 2'
It sounds like this might be a helpful video for you: ruclips.net/video/JB1gfGee1kY/видео.html It covers what we call "half-high" walls, where the recess of the wall changes.
InSoFast not really, video is a typical situation where foundation transitions to stud wall, my situation is 2 offsets of 2" at different heights, thereby making it impossible to have sheetrock in one plane. I am contemplating 'building out' upper portions of wall with rigid insulation so it is flush with 12" wall and then install 'Insofast' panels from floor to clg. I will secure rigid foam to masonry with construction adhesive
That sounds like a great solution! In that case, however, we would recommend installing the InSoFast first with the extra rigid board over top to flush out your wall. This way your drywall can benefit from the structure provided the InSoFast panels built-in attachment studs. If you did it the other way around, you would have to fasten the InSoFast through the rigid board to the foundation wall with mechanical fasteners. Overall, it would be a weaker structure that introduces holes in your wall. We actually call this method InSoFast PLUS, here is a page if you are interested: insofast.com/explore/insofast-plus/
InSoFast how is Insofast panels attached to wall? and if I install as suggested, now I may have to build out with rigid insul. even more. don't see why I can't install as 1st suggested, Insulfast adhered to rigid insul adhered to masonry
No, it's same amount of rigid insulation as you had previously determined. We're just suggested you switch the order of your layers so that the drywall can be attached to the InSoFast studs instead of your foundation wall. You could probably do it either way, but we feel it's less work to have the InSoFast studs bonded to the wall. To explain, in a normal rigid board installation, you would adhere the board to the walls and then add furring strips over top to secure drywall. This method works, but it means you have to puncture your foundation which could, for instance, weaken its waterproofing. With InSoFast, the embedded studs ARE those furring strips AND they can be adhered directly to the walls without poking holes. Here is a video from This Old House showing the furring strip method you can avoid by using InSoFast: ruclips.net/video/oKQdo88Ne74/видео.html
Hey guys, question. Once drywall is installed, can shelves and cabinets be hung on the wall as well - assuming we hit a stud? Is there a weight limit? Thanks!
Have these in our basement. Rhe problem is once drywall is installed it is absolutely impossible to *find* one of these "studs", or even know if you've hit one.
Hi, 110 seconds is way more time than I have available, so I'm not going to watch this video that thoroughly answers my question, I'm going to ask it in the comments as if I don't even know this video exists and make you waste your time answering it in writing. Aw, crap, that Jeff guy beat me to it. Well, this only took 104 seconds to type so at least I've saved 6 more seconds than if I'd watched the video like a chump.
insofast.com/explore/adhesive-attachment/ Loctite PL Premium’s 3X Stronger Construction Adhesive on clean concrete surfaces. It is the adhesive we recommend. Other formulas and brands may not work as expected. The technic you are describing is called flashing. The adhesive manufacturer has other tips and suggestions: www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/directions/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm
Preparation
Use above 40°F (4°C). Surfaces must be clean, dry and free of frost, grease, dust and other contaminants. Pre-fit all materials and protect finished surfaces. If using cartridge format, cut nozzle at a 45° angle to desired bead size and puncture inner seal. Be very careful not to allow Loctite® PL® Premium to cure on a finished surface.
Application
Apply adhesive to one surface of the material being bonded. Press the surfaces firmly together. Materials may be repositioned within 45 minutes after applying the adhesive. If bonding two non-porous surfaces (such as foam, metal and fiberglass), add water in the form of a very light or atomized spray from a plant mister bottle to the extruded adhesive. The repositioning time will then be reduced to less than 30 minutes. Use mechanical support for 24 hours while the adhesive cures.
Flashing exposes the polyurethane adhesive to moisture, "humidity," that will aid and accelerate the adhesive's set time.
Jeff- the answer is yes. Here are a couple of links that will go into more detail:
insofast.com/explore/hanging-tvs-and-cabinets/
and
insofast.com/explore/how-strong-is-the-insofast-stud/
What about sweating or moisture between covered wall? Are you concerned about mold..
No if installed correctly and sealed properly sweating and mold are not a concern.
Off topic curious question: R10 in 2" is good, but vastly eclipsed by polyrurethane spray on foam, which would be R20 in the same thickness. Why can't the panels be formed/manufactured with polyurethane instead of the white stuff? Can I buy just the plastic studs w/out the foam attached?
Just by 2x4's and glue them on then.
love it. but you are not in Dominican Republic?
Thanks! We can ship to US ports. But we do not arrange or cover the cost outside of that.
Do you have yo hang drywall or can you just paint this product?
Terrill it depends on the application. Building codes are pretty clear on their requirements of having foam insulation covered with something like drywall if it is used in a habitable living space. Paint over foam insulation does not give you a very durable protective surface...it will get dinged and dented.
@@insofast-continuous-insulation thank you
@@terrillford7784 Sure
How is product installed when the foundation wall thickness changes from bottom to top, wall is 12'' at bottom 3', 10" for the next 2' and 8" for the next 2'
It sounds like this might be a helpful video for you: ruclips.net/video/JB1gfGee1kY/видео.html
It covers what we call "half-high" walls, where the recess of the wall changes.
InSoFast
not really, video is a typical situation where foundation transitions to stud wall, my situation is 2 offsets of 2" at different heights, thereby making it impossible to have sheetrock in one plane. I am contemplating 'building out' upper portions of wall with rigid insulation so it is flush with 12" wall and then install 'Insofast' panels from floor to clg. I will secure rigid foam to masonry with construction adhesive
That sounds like a great solution! In that case, however, we would recommend installing the InSoFast first with the extra rigid board over top to flush out your wall. This way your drywall can benefit from the structure provided the InSoFast panels built-in attachment studs.
If you did it the other way around, you would have to fasten the InSoFast through the rigid board to the foundation wall with mechanical fasteners. Overall, it would be a weaker structure that introduces holes in your wall.
We actually call this method InSoFast PLUS, here is a page if you are interested: insofast.com/explore/insofast-plus/
InSoFast
how is Insofast panels attached to wall? and if I install as suggested, now I may have to build out with rigid insul. even more. don't see why I can't install as 1st suggested, Insulfast adhered to rigid insul adhered to masonry
No, it's same amount of rigid insulation as you had previously determined. We're just suggested you switch the order of your layers so that the drywall can be attached to the InSoFast studs instead of your foundation wall. You could probably do it either way, but we feel it's less work to have the InSoFast studs bonded to the wall.
To explain, in a normal rigid board installation, you would adhere the board to the walls and then add furring strips over top to secure drywall. This method works, but it means you have to puncture your foundation which could, for instance, weaken its waterproofing. With InSoFast, the embedded studs ARE those furring strips AND they can be adhered directly to the walls without poking holes.
Here is a video from This Old House showing the furring strip method you can avoid by using InSoFast: ruclips.net/video/oKQdo88Ne74/видео.html
Hey guys, question. Once drywall is installed, can shelves and cabinets be hung on the wall as well - assuming we hit a stud? Is there a weight limit? Thanks!
Have these in our basement. Rhe problem is once drywall is installed it is absolutely impossible to *find* one of these "studs", or even know if you've hit one.
You should read and answer all the comments if possible. I find the questions and answers in the comments very helpful.
Thank-you for your suggestion.
Can you film this again in Spanish? I want to show this to my guys but mosy of them only speak Spanish.
Ok, we get it, Insofast has the patent for the 8th wonder of the world! lol Awesome!
I'm not sure that it is the 8th wonder of the world. But thanks anyway!
How to remove it?
With a lot of hard work or cut the foam out.
Will those studs hold a 55inch tv
Yes ruclips.net/video/kBpUqJty0pU/видео.html
Hi, 110 seconds is way more time than I have available, so I'm not going to watch this video that thoroughly answers my question, I'm going to ask it in the comments as if I don't even know this video exists and make you waste your time answering it in writing.
Aw, crap, that Jeff guy beat me to it. Well, this only took 104 seconds to type so at least I've saved 6 more seconds than if I'd watched the video like a chump.
Your use of dissolve transitions is painful and pointless.
Haha... yeah we admit, it's an older video..I guess it's time to make a new one!