I am returning to one of several of your videos that helped me in restoring a 15-91 that my husband inherited from his great grandmother and was not stored in the best conditions. The entire process was like a college course and you were one of my teachers. I can tell you that it was a success and she purrs like a kitten in her number 40, refinished, Queen Anne style cabinet! It took me two months from stool to cabinet to a cleaned up working machine. Thank you for your videos, they were very, very helpful!!!
@@soniacriswell269 thanks for your awesome comments. You’re defining the reason this channel exists. I love it when the plan comes together. Your hard work and dedication pays off in the form of an awesome machine that’s back in the game and performing up to speed. Well done,And thanks for watching. 😎👍
I never thought to poke a hole in a felt. What a good idea! I've had luck renewing a couple of felts for a 15-90 by soaking them in kerosene. The motor felts as well as the felts in the top of the machine for the presser foot bar and the needle bar were rock hard with old grease or oil and after a soak in kerosene (and some squeezing) they softened right up and started to work all right. Taking apart the motor on the 15-90 to get at the felts was a job in itself, but worthwhile.
After finally getting the bakelite housing replacements for my motor brushes, I have hit a stoppage due to the wrapping on the field coil breaking down and coming apart. What would you recommend using to re-wrap that? Once I have crossed that bridge, my 201 should be up and running again.
I would either get a new motor or a used motor. I don’t have the time to dedicate to the task you’ve undertaken. Or, you can take it to a motor shop and have them repair it. That’s what I would do, so that’s what I would recommend. Maybe someone with motor rewinding experience can chime in. The only thing that comes to mind is shrink tubing. I don’t know to what extent your “wrapping” is gone.😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 appreciate the response. I've been looking into replacement motors, but one that fits inside the pot motor housing for this machine is hard to come by. I was considering converting it to a belt drive and using a standalone motor mounted on the table. I'll keep an eye out for a replacement.
@@TopsailKayakFishing I have a customer who purchased a rebuilt one on EBay and I installed it for her. I was impressed by its quality and performance. I think she paid around $150 for it. 😎
Yes, but there’s no need to. I have a video on how to push a size 18 needle through the obstructive wick and just add sewing machine oil. There another channel on RUclips that shows how to replace the wicks, if you really want to. If you’re not real good at such stuff, it’s a real good way to ruin a perfectly good motor. Just don’t over oil, as most do.
I just broke that one down as an illustration for a friend who requested it. I don’t see the necessity to replace the wicks if sewing machine oil is used. Modern sewing machine oil is a highly refined mineral oil that acts as a solvent to rejuvenate the oil hardened wicks. Our modern oils are far superior to the ones of days gone by. Using modern oils solves the problem caused by “ hardening of the wicks”.😎
For Singer 15-91 Please clarify for those that may not realize it is grease only not oil that goes in grease ports/pots with the grease wicks in the springs on underside of potted motor (and definitely not where the brushes are as you said).
That was certainly the case in 1949 when that machine was designed. Now, it’s 73 years later and those grease wicks have hardened and become impenetrable plugs that no longer function as designed. Now, if you put grease in the port, it goes nowhere. Unless you replace the wicks, as some highly skilled service techs can do, it’s best to pierce a hole in the wicks and provide a pathway for a modern OIL to be used effectively.
@@vs7089 modern oil is a highly refined mineral oil that’s clear and as viscous as water. You’ll find it online and at Walmart, as well as Joanne Fabrics. It will be labeled as “Sewing Machine Oil”.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you, I do already use that. I thought that perhaps there was something else or a specific product that you were referring to. Thank you for all of your knowledge.
It’s generally oil that’s burning off . Someone down the line applied too much oil. Short of disassembling the motor and cleaning it, try running it at high speed with the clutch disengaged until the smoking is minimized. It may take a while, but that works for me quite often if the oil isn’t excessive.
Randy, isn’t there something “similar” to that wick that you could order and manipulate into the size and shape needed instead of soaking in kerosene or drilling a hole through? For example: would dense cork with a tiny hole in it not be absorbent enough?
There is felt cord (1/8") available from McMaster-Carr, and some other sources online that you cut a piece off matching the size of the old ones, and replace by gently "unscrewing" the old one out of the spring, and putting the new one in, dabbing some Singer motor lube on the end, slipping it back into the clip in the tube, and packing in some more lube to saturate it. Do the same with the other one and dd more lube in over the worm gear (once it's back in place. All done!
I have been able to replace some felt wicks with the product from McMaster Carr as Cyn Richardson has stated and so far so good, they seem to be working well.
I’m confused. There are many guys on YT who instruct us to fill those grease tanks with new grease after digging out the old stuff. Are you saying not to do that?
If the old grease is hardened and not doing its job, I replace it. If the gear box still has a good seal and the grease is like new, I leave it alone. When you can’t tell the old grease from the new grease, why change it? There’s no heat buildup in the household machines or any contamination if the seal is good. Sewing machines aren’t vehicles, farm equipment, or earthmoving machines. I’ve serviced all those in my life, they’re totally different applications.👍😎
Hello sir, I was wondering if you could help me. I bought a serger from a flea market 2 days ago. I got her down to 35$ but sry long story short lol. Do you know where I could get a owners manual. I'v looked everywhere online lol looking to see how I can post a picture of her.
Just got a 15-125 and a 99k the 99 is in great condition just needs a quick cleaning and new belt ! the 15 needs to be clened rewird and the works it’s all scratched up
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I am returning to one of several of your videos that helped me in restoring a 15-91 that my husband inherited from his great grandmother and was not stored in the best conditions.
The entire process was like a college course and you were one of my teachers.
I can tell you that it was a success and she purrs like a kitten in her number 40, refinished, Queen Anne style cabinet!
It took me two months from stool to cabinet to a cleaned up working machine.
Thank you for your videos, they were very, very helpful!!!
@@soniacriswell269 thanks for your awesome comments. You’re defining the reason this channel exists. I love it when the plan comes together. Your hard work and dedication pays off in the form of an awesome machine that’s back in the game and performing up to speed. Well done,And thanks for watching. 😎👍
Randy, you made my day ❤. Thanks for the recognition.
Gave you your props because you deserved them. You’re welcome.
Beautifully clear layout of the components. Very enlightening. Thank you! 👏👏👏
You’re welcome and thanks for watching.👍😎
I never thought to poke a hole in a felt. What a good idea! I've had luck renewing a couple of felts for a 15-90 by soaking them in kerosene. The motor felts as well as the felts in the top of the machine for the presser foot bar and the needle bar were rock hard with old grease or oil and after a soak in kerosene (and some squeezing) they softened right up and started to work all right. Taking apart the motor on the 15-90 to get at the felts was a job in itself, but worthwhile.
Absolutely workable. A lot of effort but the results pay off with the great machine operating like new.
After finally getting the bakelite housing replacements for my motor brushes, I have hit a stoppage due to the wrapping on the field coil breaking down and coming apart. What would you recommend using to re-wrap that? Once I have crossed that bridge, my 201 should be up and running again.
I would either get a new motor or a used motor. I don’t have the time to dedicate to the task you’ve undertaken. Or, you can take it to a motor shop and have them repair it. That’s what I would do, so that’s what I would recommend.
Maybe someone with motor rewinding experience can chime in.
The only thing that comes to mind is shrink tubing. I don’t know to what extent your “wrapping” is gone.😎
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 appreciate the response. I've been looking into replacement motors, but one that fits inside the pot motor housing for this machine is hard to come by. I was considering converting it to a belt drive and using a standalone motor mounted on the table.
I'll keep an eye out for a replacement.
@@TopsailKayakFishing I have a customer who purchased a rebuilt one on EBay and I installed it for her. I was impressed by its quality and performance. I think she paid around $150 for it. 😎
Can the wicks be replaced?
Yes, but there’s no need to.
I have a video on how to push a size 18 needle through the obstructive wick and just add sewing machine oil.
There another channel on RUclips that shows how to replace the wicks, if you really want to.
If you’re not real good at such stuff, it’s a real good way to ruin a perfectly good motor.
Just don’t over oil, as most do.
I'm curious, why wouldn't you replace the wick? Especially if you're working on these motors a lot.
I just broke that one down as an illustration for a friend who requested it. I don’t see the necessity to replace the wicks if sewing machine oil is used.
Modern sewing machine oil is a highly refined mineral oil that acts as a solvent to rejuvenate the oil hardened wicks.
Our modern oils are far superior to the ones of days gone by.
Using modern oils solves the problem caused by “ hardening of the wicks”.😎
For Singer 15-91 Please clarify for those that may not realize it is grease only not oil that goes in grease ports/pots with the grease wicks in the springs on underside of potted motor (and definitely not where the brushes are as you said).
That was certainly the case in 1949 when that machine was designed. Now, it’s 73 years later and those grease wicks have hardened and become impenetrable plugs that no longer function as designed. Now, if you put grease in the port, it goes nowhere. Unless you replace the wicks, as some highly skilled service techs can do, it’s best to pierce a hole in the wicks and provide a pathway for a modern OIL to be used effectively.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 What “modern” OIL do you use for that application?
@@vs7089 modern oil is a highly refined mineral oil that’s clear and as viscous as water. You’ll find it online and at Walmart, as well as Joanne Fabrics. It will be labeled as “Sewing Machine Oil”.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you, I do already use that. I thought that perhaps there was something else or a specific product that you were referring to. Thank you for all of your knowledge.
@@vs7089 👍🏼
Is there any way to fix the smoke coming out of the motor?
It’s generally oil that’s burning off . Someone down the line applied too much oil. Short of disassembling the motor and cleaning it, try running it at high speed with the clutch disengaged until the smoking is minimized. It may take a while, but that works for me quite often if the oil isn’t excessive.
Randy, isn’t there something “similar” to that wick that you could order and manipulate into the size and shape needed instead of soaking in kerosene or drilling a hole through? For example: would dense cork with a tiny hole in it not be absorbent enough?
There is felt cord (1/8") available from McMaster-Carr, and some other sources online that you cut a piece off matching the size of the old ones, and replace by gently "unscrewing" the old one out of the spring, and putting the new one in, dabbing some Singer motor lube on the end, slipping it back into the clip in the tube, and packing in some more lube to saturate it. Do the same with the other one and dd more lube in over the worm gear (once it's back in place. All done!
I have been able to replace some felt wicks with the product from McMaster Carr as Cyn Richardson has stated and so far so good, they seem to be working well.
I’m confused. There are many guys on YT who instruct us to fill those grease tanks with new grease after digging out the old stuff. Are you saying not to do that?
If the old grease is hardened and not doing its job, I replace it. If the gear box still has a good seal and the grease is like new, I leave it alone.
When you can’t tell the old grease from the new grease, why change it?
There’s no heat buildup in the household machines or any contamination if the seal is good.
Sewing machines aren’t vehicles, farm equipment, or earthmoving machines. I’ve serviced all those in my life, they’re totally different applications.👍😎
Hello sir, I was wondering if you could help me. I bought a serger from a flea market 2 days ago. I got her down to 35$ but sry long story short lol. Do you know where I could get a owners manual. I'v looked everywhere online lol looking to see how I can post a picture of her.
I cant post a picture so on the front it says mini lock FR-855 no.401043 Thank you ahead of tiime :D
@@crazydiva4131 the only way I know to get one is online. Search that model and someone should have one.
Young and flexible and vibrant 😂
Just got a 15-125 and a 99k the 99 is in great condition just needs a quick cleaning and new belt ! the 15 needs to be clened rewird and the works it’s all scratched up
Good choice. Shine them up and oil them and have fun.
Just got a 201 was wondering if I should do this?