I love those Fluke meters. Years ago I bought a Fluke 77 and a couple months later while putting my tools away at a job site i managed to leave it on my work truck bumper and drove off down the highway. Some guy followed me off the exit and jumped out at a stop ran to my window holding my meter, he had watched it fall off my bumper and bounce and slide down the road. The whole back of the yellow rubberized case with belt hook was completely worn down to the the meter itself, it looked like someone had taken an angle grinder to it. It no longer functioned though in any setting. I sent it back to the Fluke service center with a note telling them what happened to it, fully expecting them to total it or give me a tidy bill. I was surprised when a few days later it was shipped back, it had a brand new protective case and new display window still with protective film and a read out of all the tests and calibrations, cost? $0.00 Good company with quality stuff.
While that is awfully nice of them that's one of the reasons they're so expensive, they're wearing the expense of their customers' mistakes - ala Snap-On.
My neighbor, a mechanic once told me they hooked a 20 foot steel pipe to a ratchet to get a bolt out. Broke the ratchet and Snap-On replaced it, that is why they are expensive not just customer mistakes.
Fuel line holding clips under my car were destroyed after breaking all 4 wheels off the tarmac and landing as gently as possible, so i just ziptied the dangling blue fuel lines to the nearby brake lines. This was in 2006, 2018 and the zipties are already the same color of the underside of the car now, can't tell it was ever jury rigged!
At work I made a policy... all temporary fixes must be labeled with a "blame tag" nothing the perpetrator of the temporary fix and the date it was installed.
chris osh .. aah, yeah a defib sends a shock to stop the heart, then your autonomous nervous system ( the bit of your brain that controls breathing, heartbeat etc ) gets it firing in the correct sequence
Apparently, pace makers come with a test mode that surgeons trigger with a magnet to test it just before implanting. So although there is not enough Voltage in the batteries to give you a shock, someone with a pacemaker could be vulnerable from the magnetic field next to the 100s of amps in the cables.
Can't remember the movie, but they were on the subway tracks Watch the third rail it's 600 volts! It's not the volts that kill you it's the amps. How many amps is it? ENOUGH TO PUSH A TRAIN!!!
Some horrid flashbacks to the old Ford Jubilee...6v and positive ground. Gross. Of course, the 50 some year old starter never gave a fuck about 12 or 6 volts, just keep the ground right.
@Lassi Kinnunen electrons flow from negative to positive in reality whereas conventional current will show circuits flowing positive to negative. It matters not most of the time so long as one is consistent. Anyway positive "ground" is just one way to think about recollecting the used pixies I think.
Otherwise known as old English car disease. Scared fourteen bejeebers out of me the first time i tried dancing with the pixies on the then girlfriends Austin 1800
That center set of contacts (the moving ones) is spring loaded and should slide in the mechanism. It looked as if the ones on the right side were not springing to the right properly. That (I believe) is why it was not making contact with the stationary contacts.
There was a Canuck named Ave Who a forklift tried to save From a fate of eternal sleep In some forgotten scrap heap So out he pulls a volt meter To test the battery's leaders He discovers some have run dry Aquafina he recommends we try The sulfuric acid now wet And the charger all set The angry pixies he will push For four hours at high chooch When this fails to reveal The real problem in detail To the schematic he will turn It's a reversing switch we learn After much careful deduction It was the improper function In the forward/reverse case What was f**king our headspace This hunk of steel and lead Brought back from the dead Owes its life to the man who can fix anything at hand Voices filled full of boast Let's all shout a toast With beer chilled on ice "Keep your dick in a vice!"
My neighbor fried off his wedding ring (and attached finger) accidentally completing the circuit on a marine battery last year. Good glovin is important
how about a quick demo of 36v and a ring, preferably not on your finger and not your wedding ring. However, a hotdog and a brass ring might do the trick.
With that much current available the ring will spot weld onto the contacts instantly and will be glowing within a second. Not a great place to have your hand.
that want we want to see sparks and flames, I have heard tell of the effect of getting a wedding band caught between the contacts of a starter motor, It can damage the motor. With 48v at 200 amps or so my guess is you could sever a wiener clean in two.
I know two carpenters that lost their ring fingers the same way, de-gloved by gang nail plate on roof trusses. Made me think twice about ever wearing rings.
The movable contacts on the F-R switch are not returning to their fully extended position. You bent the fixed contacts, but the movable link looks to be in the position where the spring is compressed. The Reverse side seems OK but the Forward side needs some cleaning up by the looks of it.
Looks to me like somebody was having trouble getting it to engage, probably dirty contacts then, and went to reefing on the handle. Right jammed the floating bar back. Since then it looks like there's been a buildup of corrosion to fill the space.
Sounds like a good logo for the next shirt, "Temporary is only temporary if it doesn't work. " or "There is nothing more permanent than a temporary solution that works." then have some kind of graphics of something being held together with wire tires and duct tape. .. i'll take a blue 3XL.
AVE ...... 20 years in the industrial battery industry , Open circuit voltage should be 2.10 to 2.12 vpc . Specific gravity should be 1.280 Kw battery has been out of business for about 20 years , surprised is still chooches ....... I would still be attacking the fwd/rev contacts ....
And...never water a dead battery. If you must water, add to the moss guard which is the red holey plate. To tell how many amp hours of pixies it holds, decipher from the model# of the battery. If there's no label, take the cover off the ICC at Cell 1. Cell 1 has the red lead coming off it. That battery looks like maybe a 18-100-15. Amp hours per plate * (plate count / 2 - 1) makes 36V and 700Ah. I used to work at a lead acid battery service company.
@@courtrutherford8913 yes sir , does seem to be a 15 plate . 17 would be dual post , about 3" center to center. What area did you work ? What company if you don't mind me asking. As I'm sure you know , there isn't a lot of people wanting to play with these beast every day .
Damn, but do I love watching your videos. Always good to watch someone I respect do some practical troubleshooting, ESPECIALLY when they can differentiate between "good" and "good enough to get the fuckin' job done". AvE, I've actually used your videos to train my guys on ways to use common sense to diagnose equipment in the field, and to make emergent repairs if necessary. Videos like this one are a perfect example of WHY- you break stuff down into manageable bites, explain your logic along the way, and give enough background using your own personal experiences for anyone with half a brain that's watching to be able to extrapolate and apply that information to a completely different system two weeks from now. I can usually figure out the problem, and I can more often than not come up with a solution that DOESN'T require slapping in a bunch of new parts, or having a piece of gear down for a week while WAITING on said parts- but I've never been very good at being able to successfully explain the why or the how to OTHER people. When someone asks, "well, boss, why did you do it THAT way? How'd you know where to start looking for the problem?", my go-to answers of "that was just what made sense to me" or "I had a hunch" are about as useful as tits on a nun. Your videos don't just help my guys learn how to troubleshoot- they help ME learn how to teach, and (at least to me), THAT is the truly awesome part of watching. You've figured out how to package COMMON SENSE. Keep up the good work, my friend.
Dusty Conner we had a sewage lift station down at my work because a uninterruptible power supply wouldn't let the pixies thru. I asked the sparky if we have 120 vac coming in and the system has 120 vac going out why cant we just jump the freaking power supply. He said I had common sense for a plumber and that he just had jumped it.
Yes to all of it. More than once ive come behind another who was beating their head in frustration focused on the little part going wrong. At some point you gotta take that step back and assume you're making it harder than it needs to be. The young pup usually has the answer before i can catch up to where they got to. If not we get her licked before it's punchout time for 'em.
@@jiggermole I can't say much, I AM one of the younger guys (I recently entered my 30's)... but I enlisted at 17 and was out dealing with industrial fuckery before I turned 19, and was at a refit facility doing the big jobs and playing politics not long after I was old enough to drink (well, drink LEGALLY, which we ALL know is something on the top of every sailor's priority list 🤣). That early start coupled with some hard work meant that at 26, I had earned enough rank and acquired enough experience to be "that guy". I was in charge, did good work, and generally I was trusted enough to keep my bosses' interference out of my shop, but I still had political BS to deal with from time to time. In pretty much every field, you're going to run into at least ONE guy that's convinced himself that he learned enough in his first 15 years to be better than everyone younger then he is, and hasn't bothered to learn anything knew since that point... and unfortunately, THAT guy is also the one that tries to throw his weight around, pull rank, and in general let his ego get in the way of accomplishing the job, usually while word-vomiting platitudes like "I bet you didn't learn this in school", "those new tools are too complicated", "this was designed and built before we even had computers, so you're wasting your time using one to find information/find a tech manual", ect. They're usually the guy that hasn't realized that there's a difference between 15 years experience and 1 year experience repeated 15 times.
100 amps at 34 V is ~3400W (shocker, I know). Assuming creep is 20% power, that's ~2.7 kW going into that resistor. The highest power space heater you can (well, should) plug into a typical wall socket in North America is 1.8 kW. A nice seat warmer indeed.
AvE Especially when a driver decides that the vent under the seat is a good place to "hide his stash" and makes the place smell like Woodstock. And thats when I get called "Glenn , the forklifts pouring out smoke!" "Uh , call the fire department." "We can't do that." "Why?" "....." "Hello...you still there?"
The contacts in the center part of the switch are on a spring. The left side contacts are moving freely and the spring is keeping pressure. The right side contacts are stuck and the spring isn't doing diddly. You can see the set of contacts on the left side depresses the spring when you pull the lever back. Look at the gap between the contact bar and the metal plate. Now look at the gap on the other set of contacts... its clear in the video that the contacts are just stuck. Easy fix, no bending required. Just free those suckers up!
S The GE swing contactors had a problem with the insulator plates going bad with age (and heat) and they are on the positive side of the circuit. Pull the fuses one at a time and see when the (+) ground disappears. The funny part is, it's really easy to get these old resistor trucks running like new. I run into 12 volt Clark ST20's that are still running and for sale. Here's an example from 2014 www.k-bid.com/auction/3266/item/4 The thing spent 60 years scooting around in a freezer and it still runs. The hour meter is stuck at 914 because it can only go around three or four times before it breaks. Meanwhile I have stuff from the 1990's and early 2000's headed to the scrapyard because they are unrepairable junk.
Hey Uncle Bumbleefuck I had an electrician over here yesterday what fer installing a new hot tub and I accidentally called the man an electchicken to his old mug. A Freudian slip of some sorts. Thanks for that!
At 18:54 you pointed exactly at the problem! Yet you missed it and went on to bending the contacts. Didn't you notice the centre contacts were spring loaded and the one you pointed at was seized in it's cradle? Obviously not. More observation of operation required before jumping to conclusion. Disappointed.
They've been watering without fully charging the battery first. That's why all the acid boiling out.36v only tingles a bit with wet hands, the 48v feels like you stuck knife in an outlet briefly with wet hands. that battery if not ancient is likely "okay". No outliers, but it could probably use an equalizing charge/ or with your ancient pixie generator just charge for like 6 hours - fully charge it, then run it past full for a while.
Great reverb! AvE broadcasting the Hour of Power from the Cathedral of Cromulence again? Okay then. "Reading now from Song of Solvents, chapter six, verses nine through eleventeen...'And The Lord Jeebuz looked upon the machine possessed of an evil spirit, raised his hands unto the Heavens, and mightily smote the demon with a Swedish nutfucker. Its cries of anguish were heard more than a thousand cubits away in the cities of Antiochsidant and Shubat-Dubat-Du. Sayeth The Lord, "Take heart, one and all, and be not afraid; verily, time is nigh for a cold one. Get me a beer, Sheba!'. Here endeth the epistle."
I hope you figured out that the floating contacts for forward in that holder part of the lever switch were stuck and needed cleaning. You didn't need to bend the stationary contacts, you just needed to clean the moving insulator so the contacts could float freely. The reverse contacts were floating just fine and made contact with their fixed contacts under spring tension.
16:05 the contact bar is meant to float in the housing, yours is stuck, bending the tabs wont put even pressure on the points which is why the bar floats under spring pressure.
IF you tilt the mast all the way back. Then place the appropriate amount of blocking under the channel of the mast, then tilt the mast forward. VIOLA drive wheels are off the ground. No death or dismemberment possible, as far as motion of the lift truck is concerned.
That 36 volt positive in the frame could be coming from corrosion on the battery case or shorted wire to frame. Be very careful if you push in F&R contactors manually. The tips can weld and the lift will be crashing into the wall on the other side of room. Don't ask me how I know that.LOL All manuals say to jack drive wheels off the floor while doing electrical trouble shooting
I was gonna jump the gun and comment "emery cloth all the contactors" but after watching the whole thing, instead I'll say: I believe on that forward/reverse switch that you "adjusted" there's a spring that was supposed to push the contacts all the way to the end, and some shmoo is keeping it from going all the way to the right. Maybe some acetone and a toothbrush is in order. Depending on how wrong it goes, maybe some marshmallows and hot dogs as well.
It looked like the traveling contacts on the f/r switch were spring loaded to ensure they made contact, and the one on the forward end was kinda hiked back in it's travel compared to the other one. Might be worth giving it a wiggle, see if it springs out again.
It's always been my experience with fork'm-a-lifts that each cell has it's own cap, and each cell is 2 volts. So, count the caps, and....waalaaa...designed battery voltage is determined. The schematic looks like it operates similar to the old EV 10 systems. Nice meter. I have the Fluke 88V and love it!
Hey also the battery is relatively safe. We work on them un insulated all the time . Just keep the metal parts from touching . Usually p.i.t equipment is isolated ground , so sounds like you may have some stray voltage leaking from the corroded battery , or something wonky in the wiring . Do you know if you have a line contactor Inside that there pixy converter ? If so what voltage is it running on . I can send you a device to replace that ever so unreliable timer . Ya got yourself some old equipment there brother , but it should still chooch given the right love . Keep it in a vise brother !!!
That selector could be better. The best kind of bridging contacts have a pivot action at the spring end so the contacts not only touch, but wipe each other. Helps keep the schmoo off.
Many cities have been passing regulations the last 10 years to prohibit propane forklifts indoors. That's put a huge pinch on used electric forklifts and batteries in particular. The big companies can just buy new but, the small guys are having to scramble to pick up questionable used batteries from 1000+ miles away in Canada, and paying a premium for them. Especially out west. They're that rare. On that note though, I don't quite understand why the chargers need timers. The batteries aren't going to be over-charged, they'll only charge to the max voltage the charger is putting out. It's not constant current, it's just a multi-tap transformer, 50A when they're nearly full isn't actually going to pull 50A, will it? Though I suppose if the charger is designed to be too high of voltage, you always gotta use the timer. On old sulfated batteries it's good to leave them to hiss and fart and get warm or hot for 24-72 hours to help recondition. Far as I know there's only a couple companies in Canada that actually dump out and replace the electrolyte to refurbish forklift packs and they're all out east. Charge an arm and a dick for it and it's questionable how much life they bring back into them too. I'd let that 36v pack hit 42v for a few days, long as you keep 'em full of water she'll be okay. Probably don't feel like babysitting a ton of lead though. Better things to do.
The transformer will put out close to 50V peak unloaded, so as the amperage tappers over the voltage climbs. It will get high enough to boil the batteries. If you wanted to desulfate them, get a 6v or 12v desulfator and do it per battery in the pack. My buddy has a 48V forklift and we ended up taking 4 Chinese DC input chargers and installing them to each cell, then using the 48V input to power them. They are smart chargers and have actually almost doubled the life in the old pack over about 2 years. Just make sure you get isolated chargers, chaining common ground chargers will result in VERY angry pixies.
I was always told that the reason you don't leave them to charger longer is to prevent sulfate build up on the plates, which can over time kill a battery. Realistically speaking, a timer is a pretty crude way of managing charge control to begin with, so I suppose that goes to show how little of a concern it really is.
It's idiot proofing in case you set them to charge on a friday morning and get too excited thinking about beer o'clock to take them off before you leave, if nothing else.
@@alfoncejean8826 actually, lead acid likes to be charged at about 14.8 volts and a float charge of about 13.2 volts.. al for 12volt mind.. so yeah anytime there not on a "smart charger' they can easily be overcharged
Electric forklifts are not grounded. The electrical system is closed circuit. There is no ground. From battery positive, through the circuits, and back in to the battery negative. If you have voltage to the frame, you have leakage from your battery (electrolytic path) or you have a short to frame in one of your circuit. Also, at 36 volts, the battery is dead and needs to be charged (80% discharged). I'll be honest, you don't want a new forklift. Much more complicated. Computerized. Too many more components and wires to shit the bed, and a lot more pain in the ass to troubleshoot. The first time you have a $5,000 main controller (CPU) or motor controller, or steer controller, or Steer/Tilt controller shit the bed and render the forklift a useless, fault-coding rock, you'll wish you had the old one back.
Looks like you could have some fun with an arduino and a pile of solid state relays what for removing the resistor drive and replacing it with pwm. Or maybe several separate 555 circuits instead for higher robustosity and field repair capability.
I know this video is over a year old but it looked to me that there was slide points for the selector switch with a spring in between. Noticed that the reverse side was stuck back not allowing it to slide forward.
I use a piece of 120 grit emery cloth doubled over between the two contacts. One can also build up the contacts with some silver solder and file flat. Contactor kits now have to be mined from the asteroid belt apparently.
I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere in the doobley doo but the problem was that center piece. The forward side wasn't springing all the way to the right *as viewed in the video*
Dude, loving this series. Man after my own heart. Admittedly I don't hoover my place as much as the next women but I can claim to have repaired the same tired old hoover My mum gave me when I moved out in '99. nothing pleases me more than seeing something be jerry rigged to last just a little bit longer. Top man!
I wish I was smart enough to realize what is going on.... but it still entertaining to watch him problem solve / explain stuff. I just look for small stuff that might actually help me in my meaningless tinkering.
Nothing like a happy ending. Of course there are better happy endings to be had, I know a few good "massage parlours", but this one is still nice nonetheless
Probably been said in the comments but sod it.. I'm not reading all 656 (currently) hilarious as they usually are. I'm guessing the Rode mic radio link didn't like the brief but chubby arcs from the contactors? Without the shielding from the metal covers there's a fair bit of RF energy dancing it's beautiful merry way into the near field.
This is an awesome schematic explanation, I have been a novice engineer and inventor for my entire life, only starting to appreciate the basics of electrical engineering you are definitely a role model and I appreciate everything you put up here thank you from the bottom of my heart
Im know ur much smarter on this subject than i , however i didnt hear u mention wether id been a good efficacious idea to wash off the acid buildup on the top of those batts which would be minutely shorting out those batts. Rich/San Jose
As a Forkamalift Driver I gotta say watching the last few seconds of this video was painful! Then Again I imagine watching me try to weld something would be equally as painful for you!
looks like some one jammed that selector lever real hard which pushed the contact forward. some real jerk like those who have to tighten down the oil pan bolt so hard it strips out. dont be that jerk. tight is tight. doesnt have to go no more, doesnt have to be super tight.
Crown has some industrial lithium batteries coming into the market now, VForce brand. Usually it's gonna be prismatic (rectangle box that you can slide in or out) or lipo pouch cells for this application. Way easier to replace bad cells and you don't have to do any parallel connections, just a 170-1000 AH cell and put it in series to reach the proper voltage of 24-48v (or 72v for some European TSPs). Right now they only have it for RCs and WPs. Pepsi bought a bunch of WPs with lithium batteries. They're really good for opportunity charging and not worrying about leaving the battery at 100%. The only problem is it's goddamn expensive, like another $10,000 for this battery over a flooded lead acid. It'd be more complicated to do series-parallel with the fairly low voltages required. Tesla made a really good BMS system to manage all those cells, but the benefits aren't useful for forklifts and the drawbacks are not worth it.
For the sake of doing it though. Say you have a 3.7v nominal voltage cell, 10 amp output, and 3500mah or 3.5 AH capacity. You'd need 200 to reach 700 AH, now you need a series connection to get 36 volts nominal, instead of the right now 3.7v nominal. You'd need about 10 in a series to reach 36 volts, you'd be a little over 36 actually, for every parallel connection. I'm not 100% sure, but that should be about 2,000 batteries for a 36v 700AH battery. With 200 10 amp cells in parallel, you have an output of 2,000 amps. At 36v 2,000 amps, were looking at an output of 72KW. That might be a bit overkill, so you could probably drop down to a 5 amp cell and get a higher capacity per cell and have 1,000 amps or 36KW output. Now of we use the Tesla batteries which are 2170 format rather than 18650. You've got a 3.7v 4.8 AH cell. You only need 145 to reach 700 AH in parallel. Now you need 10 in series for every parellel bank to reach just above 36 volts. We're now only looking at 1,312 cells total. Definitely more dense but a lot of cells to manage. If one goes bad, finding and replacing that cell is gonna be a massive bitch.
Gday AvE...love your vigaoes....watching from Ozstralia...I have a theory...you my friend are actually..Red Green....!!....I challenge you to deny my theory..?... ok await your reply...cheers mate.
occam's razor! Been there before, was working on no start weak crank. Replaced the started after checking the battery.. Ended up being the battery contacts...
I love those Fluke meters. Years ago I bought a Fluke 77 and a couple months later while putting my tools away at a job site i managed to leave it on my work truck bumper and drove off down the highway. Some guy followed me off the exit and jumped out at a stop ran to my window holding my meter, he had watched it fall off my bumper and bounce and slide down the road. The whole back of the yellow rubberized case with belt hook was completely worn down to the the meter itself, it looked like someone had taken an angle grinder to it. It no longer functioned though in any setting. I sent it back to the Fluke service center with a note telling them what happened to it, fully expecting them to total it or give me a tidy bill. I was surprised when a few days later it was shipped back, it had a brand new protective case and new display window still with protective film and a read out of all the tests and calibrations, cost? $0.00 Good company with quality stuff.
My ex mother in law worked at Fluke in Everett Wa. for years in service shipping. She retired about 15 years ago. She had some great stories.
While that is awfully nice of them that's one of the reasons they're so expensive, they're wearing the expense of their customers' mistakes - ala Snap-On.
I love people like that.... nowadays no one would pick up something that you dropped and run to return it to you. "oh look free volt meter!!"
My neighbor, a mechanic once told me they hooked a 20 foot steel pipe to a ratchet to get a bolt out. Broke the ratchet and Snap-On replaced it, that is why they are expensive not just customer mistakes.
“Years ago” yes. They’re a different company now.
Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix. Truly wise words. Any patch that works will be in place as long as it holds up.
Its temporary. Unless it works, then its permanent.
I've fixed a broken door lock spring with ducttape... can't remember when.
Fuel line holding clips under my car were destroyed after breaking all 4 wheels off the tarmac and landing as gently as possible, so i just ziptied the dangling blue fuel lines to the nearby brake lines.
This was in 2006, 2018 and the zipties are already the same color of the underside of the car now, can't tell it was ever jury rigged!
Couldn't help but laugh, nothing has ever been truer than the permentality of a temporary work around
At work I made a policy... all temporary fixes must be labeled with a "blame tag" nothing the perpetrator of the temporary fix and the date it was installed.
Fix it right the first time, on the third try
My man
I fix it on the third try, every time.
Its not the voltage that kills you, its your heart stoppin
chris osh .. i guess you're friend has an old style pacemaker then ( he's probably wary of electric cattle fences )
chris osh .. aah, yeah a defib sends a shock to stop the heart, then your autonomous nervous system ( the bit of your brain that controls breathing, heartbeat etc ) gets it firing in the correct sequence
Apparently, pace makers come with a test mode that surgeons trigger with a magnet to test it just before implanting. So although there is not enough Voltage in the batteries to give you a shock, someone with a pacemaker could be vulnerable from the magnetic field next to the 100s of amps in the cables.
its not your heart, its the nervous system being fried
Can't remember the movie, but they were on the subway tracks
Watch the third rail it's 600 volts!
It's not the volts that kill you it's the amps.
How many amps is it?
ENOUGH TO PUSH A TRAIN!!!
Positive Ground, that's horror right there.
Some horrid flashbacks to the old Ford Jubilee...6v and positive ground. Gross.
Of course, the 50 some year old starter never gave a fuck about 12 or 6 volts, just keep the ground right.
@Lassi Kinnunen electrons flow from negative to positive in reality whereas conventional current will show circuits flowing positive to negative. It matters not most of the time so long as one is consistent. Anyway positive "ground" is just one way to think about recollecting the used pixies I think.
Lo Value - Dynamo based electrics by Lucas, Prince of Darkness. Old LR driver here. Now electrumafied by an alternator from a mk1 discovery.
Otherwise known as old English car disease. Scared fourteen bejeebers out of me the first time i tried dancing with the pixies on the then girlfriends Austin 1800
When you finally find that your fwd&rev inter locks are not working, you may be close to getting it to run.
That's considered a fully complete electrical service and she'll be good another 35 years.
*Shout out to Big Clive's Post-Surströmming Beard!!!!*
That center set of contacts (the moving ones) is spring loaded and should slide in the mechanism. It looked as if the ones on the right side were not springing to the right properly. That (I believe) is why it was not making contact with the stationary contacts.
im sure they got free'd up real good when he bent the stationary ones in closer then reassembled and undoubtedly slammed it into forward
There was a Canuck named Ave
Who a forklift tried to save
From a fate of eternal sleep
In some forgotten scrap heap
So out he pulls a volt meter
To test the battery's leaders
He discovers some have run dry
Aquafina he recommends we try
The sulfuric acid now wet
And the charger all set
The angry pixies he will push
For four hours at high chooch
When this fails to reveal
The real problem in detail
To the schematic he will turn
It's a reversing switch we learn
After much careful deduction
It was the improper function
In the forward/reverse case
What was f**king our headspace
This hunk of steel and lead
Brought back from the dead
Owes its life to the man
who can fix anything at hand
Voices filled full of boast
Let's all shout a toast
With beer chilled on ice
"Keep your dick in a vice!"
A masterpiece
My neighbor fried off his wedding ring (and attached finger) accidentally completing the circuit on a marine battery last year. Good glovin is important
Best excuse ever!
My dad had a coworker bridge out a glass mat bank for a speed boat with a wrench. Was 8 batterys in a 4p2s setup. Melted the wrench into his hand.
@@modrobert yeah, but now he has to wear that damn pinkey ring.
robert lmao
Duane Brown it will double as a cock ring for when he has it in the ole vice.
how about a quick demo of 36v and a ring, preferably not on your finger and not your wedding ring. However, a hotdog and a brass ring might do the trick.
With that much current available the ring will spot weld onto the contacts instantly and will be glowing within a second. Not a great place to have your hand.
that want we want to see sparks and flames, I have heard tell of the effect of getting a wedding band caught between the contacts of a starter motor, It can damage the motor. With 48v at 200 amps or so my guess is you could sever a wiener clean in two.
Everything's already been done. ruclips.net/video/kx-Dyeg7iyo/видео.html
I know two carpenters that lost their ring fingers the same way, de-gloved by gang nail plate on roof trusses. Made me think twice about ever wearing rings.
I have seen it done with a car battery but not with a battery with this many angry pixies.
The movable contacts on the F-R switch are not returning to their fully extended position. You bent the fixed contacts, but the movable link looks to be in the position where the spring is compressed. The Reverse side seems OK but the Forward side needs some cleaning up by the looks of it.
Yeah there is a spring between them pushing out. I bet the contacts got dirty, got hot and weakened the spring.
Looks to me like somebody was having trouble getting it to engage, probably dirty contacts then, and went to reefing on the handle. Right jammed the floating bar back. Since then it looks like there's been a buildup of corrosion to fill the space.
How did you comment 5 days ago???
@@snubbelbuff1471 time machine
@@snubbelbuff1471 Patron subscribers get early access to videos
Sounds like a good logo for the next shirt, "Temporary is only temporary if it doesn't work. " or "There is nothing more permanent than a temporary solution that works." then have some kind of graphics of something being held together with wire tires and duct tape. .. i'll take a blue 3XL.
As a professional software developer, I'd take one of those myself!
AVE ...... 20 years in the industrial battery industry ,
Open circuit voltage should be 2.10 to 2.12 vpc . Specific gravity should be 1.280
Kw battery has been out of business for about 20 years , surprised is still chooches .......
I would still be attacking the fwd/rev contacts ....
And...never water a dead battery. If you must water, add to the moss guard which is the red holey plate. To tell how many amp hours of pixies it holds, decipher from the model# of the battery. If there's no label, take the cover off the ICC at Cell 1. Cell 1 has the red lead coming off it. That battery looks like maybe a 18-100-15. Amp hours per plate * (plate count / 2 - 1) makes 36V and 700Ah.
I used to work at a lead acid battery service company.
Tsunauticus III - I like that! The prose has a colorful flow!
Tsunauticus III "Taint" would be a better rhyme for the last line. Otherwise 4/5 stars.
@Tsunauticus III I would have gone with " decorating his colorful taint"
@@courtrutherford8913 yes sir , does seem to be a 15 plate .
17 would be dual post , about 3" center to center.
What area did you work ?
What company if you don't mind me asking.
As I'm sure you know , there isn't a lot of people wanting to play with these beast every day .
Right on time as I sit on the ole throne
It's more manly to stand and pee. 🤪
I do the same thing nothing makes a dump sweeter
#dumpthronesquad
E30 M3 Fuck you it's easier to sit
Best way to watch
Please don't fix this Bertha too much, we enjoy having her on the channel. Maybe she should have her own channel by now!
Clean her up a bit and put a new seat on her!
Damn, but do I love watching your videos. Always good to watch someone I respect do some practical troubleshooting, ESPECIALLY when they can differentiate between "good" and "good enough to get the fuckin' job done".
AvE, I've actually used your videos to train my guys on ways to use common sense to diagnose equipment in the field, and to make emergent repairs if necessary. Videos like this one are a perfect example of WHY- you break stuff down into manageable bites, explain your logic along the way, and give enough background using your own personal experiences for anyone with half a brain that's watching to be able to extrapolate and apply that information to a completely different system two weeks from now.
I can usually figure out the problem, and I can more often than not come up with a solution that DOESN'T require slapping in a bunch of new parts, or having a piece of gear down for a week while WAITING on said parts- but I've never been very good at being able to successfully explain the why or the how to OTHER people.
When someone asks, "well, boss, why did you do it THAT way? How'd you know where to start looking for the problem?", my go-to answers of "that was just what made sense to me" or "I had a hunch" are about as useful as tits on a nun.
Your videos don't just help my guys learn how to troubleshoot- they help ME learn how to teach, and (at least to me), THAT is the truly awesome part of watching. You've figured out how to package COMMON SENSE.
Keep up the good work, my friend.
Dusty Conner well put!
Dusty Conner we had a sewage lift station down at my work because a uninterruptible power supply wouldn't let the pixies thru. I asked the sparky if we have 120 vac coming in and the system has 120 vac going out why cant we just jump the freaking power supply. He said I had common sense for a plumber and that he just had jumped it.
Yes to all of it. More than once ive come behind another who was beating their head in frustration focused on the little part going wrong. At some point you gotta take that step back and assume you're making it harder than it needs to be. The young pup usually has the answer before i can catch up to where they got to. If not we get her licked before it's punchout time for 'em.
@@jiggermole I can't say much, I AM one of the younger guys (I recently entered my 30's)... but I enlisted at 17 and was out dealing with industrial fuckery before I turned 19, and was at a refit facility doing the big jobs and playing politics not long after I was old enough to drink (well, drink LEGALLY, which we ALL know is something on the top of every sailor's priority list 🤣).
That early start coupled with some hard work meant that at 26, I had earned enough rank and acquired enough experience to be "that guy". I was in charge, did good work, and generally I was trusted enough to keep my bosses' interference out of my shop, but I still had political BS to deal with from time to time. In pretty much every field, you're going to run into at least ONE guy that's convinced himself that he learned enough in his first 15 years to be better than everyone younger then he is, and hasn't bothered to learn anything knew since that point... and unfortunately, THAT guy is also the one that tries to throw his weight around, pull rank, and in general let his ego get in the way of accomplishing the job, usually while word-vomiting platitudes like "I bet you didn't learn this in school", "those new tools are too complicated", "this was designed and built before we even had computers, so you're wasting your time using one to find information/find a tech manual", ect. They're usually the guy that hasn't realized that there's a difference between 15 years experience and 1 year experience repeated 15 times.
That resistor for speed must be a nice seat warm-err.
And adds a pleasant industrial bouquet to the atmosphere.
100 amps at 34 V is ~3400W (shocker, I know). Assuming creep is 20% power, that's ~2.7 kW going into that resistor. The highest power space heater you can (well, should) plug into a typical wall socket in North America is 1.8 kW.
A nice seat warmer indeed.
Good excuse to floor the machine all day during summer, we would not want any unsafe sitiatens b’cause the warehouse is heating up!
No, does not work like this. The power loss is less than that.
AvE Especially when a driver decides that the vent under the seat is a good place to "hide his stash" and makes the place smell like Woodstock.
And thats when I get called
"Glenn , the forklifts pouring out smoke!"
"Uh , call the fire department."
"We can't do that."
"Why?"
"....."
"Hello...you still there?"
Everyone loves a Big Clive reference.. Don't they??
Particularly one that makes mention of odors.
Even not knowing a single thing about pixies, problem solving is always a good time! Awesome video!
Meter, pliers & a hammer... them's the most satisfying fixes 👍
Ineptness at forking. If I had a nickel for everytime I've heard that.
You could say it was forking useless.
As someone who only gets the opportunity to work with little low-power digital electronics, this big old industrial shit is cool as heck.
Thank you for being awesome. For the benefit of humanity, please continue to post vids of this nature. PLEASE!!
I´ll miss the old "Focus you FAck" too. Could be replaced by an occasional "Frame you FAck"? 16:33
Better than nothing, eh? ;)
Please say it just for S n Gs
The contacts in the center part of the switch are on a spring. The left side contacts are moving freely and the spring is keeping pressure. The right side contacts are stuck and the spring isn't doing diddly.
You can see the set of contacts on the left side depresses the spring when you pull the lever back. Look at the gap between the contact bar and the metal plate. Now look at the gap on the other set of contacts... its clear in the video that the contacts are just stuck. Easy fix, no bending required. Just free those suckers up!
K&N filter on it, wow must make that electric engine just purr
If school was this fun and entertaining to learn from, I'd learn a lot more! Not to say that I don't, but it'd be more fun!
Previous forklift tech here. You should never have a chassis ground on an electric lift truck! Pos. Or neg.
I think one of his directional contactors is shorted to the frame.
@Karl Fehling Why is that?
Glenn Chartrand Or it's had an after market beacon or something added which is single wire frame ground, lifting the frame to battery positive.
S The GE swing contactors had a problem with the insulator plates going bad with age (and heat) and they are on the positive side of the circuit.
Pull the fuses one at a time and see when the (+) ground disappears.
The funny part is, it's really easy to get these old resistor trucks running like new.
I run into 12 volt Clark ST20's that are still running and for sale.
Here's an example from 2014
www.k-bid.com/auction/3266/item/4
The thing spent 60 years scooting around in a freezer and it still runs.
The hour meter is stuck at 914 because it can only go around three or four times before it breaks.
Meanwhile I have stuff from the 1990's and early 2000's headed to the scrapyard because they are unrepairable junk.
drive - pump. / . any motor brushes. in a unit that old will leak voltage to the frame . carbon tracks.
Hey Uncle Bumbleefuck I had an electrician over here yesterday what fer installing a new hot tub and I accidentally called the man an electchicken to his old mug. A Freudian slip of some sorts. Thanks for that!
So, how did that go? He had access to electricity and water...
I just started getting trained to use the forklift at my warehouse job. Told one of the guys my Uncle Bumblefuck would be proud.
At 18:54 you pointed exactly at the problem! Yet you missed it and went on to bending the contacts. Didn't you notice the centre contacts were spring loaded and the one you pointed at was seized in it's cradle? Obviously not. More observation of operation required before jumping to conclusion. Disappointed.
18:54 end the video? What are you on about?
My error, 16:21
agree
In electronics class now. Also badass you're almost at 1million subservients! Keep em comin, Unc!!✌️
They've been watering without fully charging the battery first. That's why all the acid boiling out.36v only tingles a bit with wet hands, the 48v feels like you stuck knife in an outlet briefly with wet hands. that battery if not ancient is likely "okay". No outliers, but it could probably use an equalizing charge/ or with your ancient pixie generator just charge for like 6 hours - fully charge it, then run it past full for a while.
Great reverb! AvE broadcasting the Hour of Power from the Cathedral of Cromulence again? Okay then. "Reading now from Song of Solvents, chapter six, verses nine through eleventeen...'And The Lord Jeebuz looked upon the machine possessed of an evil spirit, raised his hands unto the Heavens, and mightily smote the demon with a Swedish nutfucker. Its cries of anguish were heard more than a thousand cubits away in the cities of Antiochsidant and Shubat-Dubat-Du. Sayeth The Lord, "Take heart, one and all, and be not afraid; verily, time is nigh for a cold one. Get me a beer, Sheba!'. Here endeth the epistle."
Ave-men!
I hope you figured out that the floating contacts for forward in that holder part of the lever switch were stuck and needed cleaning. You didn't need to bend the stationary contacts, you just needed to clean the moving insulator so the contacts could float freely. The reverse contacts were floating just fine and made contact with their fixed contacts under spring tension.
16:05 the contact bar is meant to float in the housing, yours is stuck, bending the tabs wont put even pressure on the points which is why the bar floats under spring pressure.
IF you tilt the mast all the way back. Then place the appropriate amount of blocking under the channel of the mast, then tilt the mast forward. VIOLA drive wheels are off the ground. No death or dismemberment possible, as far as motion of the lift truck is concerned.
Nothing more permanent then a temporary fix - sounds like every millwright at the sawmill
Well dat was some serious forkin goin on there, dont cha no! A... ! sweet a small reprieve from the scrap man this time :)
That 36 volt positive in the frame could be coming from corrosion on the battery case or shorted wire to frame. Be very careful if you push in F&R contactors manually. The tips can weld and the lift will be crashing into the wall on the other side of room. Don't ask me how I know that.LOL All manuals say to jack drive wheels off the floor while doing electrical trouble shooting
I was gonna jump the gun and comment "emery cloth all the contactors" but after watching the whole thing, instead I'll say: I believe on that forward/reverse switch that you "adjusted" there's a spring that was supposed to push the contacts all the way to the end, and some shmoo is keeping it from going all the way to the right. Maybe some acetone and a toothbrush is in order.
Depending on how wrong it goes, maybe some marshmallows and hot dogs as well.
It looked like the traveling contacts on the f/r switch were spring loaded to ensure they made contact, and the one on the forward end was kinda hiked back in it's travel compared to the other one. Might be worth giving it a wiggle, see if it springs out again.
It's always been my experience with fork'm-a-lifts that each cell has it's own cap, and each cell is 2 volts. So, count the caps, and....waalaaa...designed battery voltage is determined. The schematic looks like it operates similar to the old EV 10 systems. Nice meter. I have the Fluke 88V and love it!
Thanks man, always enjoy the videos
Hey also the battery is relatively safe. We work on them un insulated all the time . Just keep the metal parts from touching .
Usually p.i.t equipment is isolated ground , so sounds like you may have some stray voltage leaking from the corroded battery , or something wonky in the wiring .
Do you know if you have a line contactor Inside that there pixy converter ? If so what voltage is it running on . I can send you a device to replace that ever so unreliable timer .
Ya got yourself some old equipment there brother , but it should still chooch given the right love . Keep it in a vise brother !!!
That selector could be better. The best kind of bridging contacts have a pivot action at the spring end so the contacts not only touch, but wipe each other. Helps keep the schmoo off.
I knew you was a working on the forkamalift with the welding tip. Nice rack and nice cage. I got a contact high off this one. Cheers.
hahaha contact high. Nicely done!
@@arduinoversusevil2025 spanks.
7:27. Also dont have open internet tabs during a screen share job interview. :)
Why do you put your meter, leads etc on top of the batteries... where they get contaminated with acid spooge that'll surely end up spread everywhere?
Minimal acid from the corrosion boogers. Just clean with anything.
Thanks for the lesson. Good to know about Contactors nd what they do
Good laugh as alway.s.
Many cities have been passing regulations the last 10 years to prohibit propane forklifts indoors. That's put a huge pinch on used electric forklifts and batteries in particular. The big companies can just buy new but, the small guys are having to scramble to pick up questionable used batteries from 1000+ miles away in Canada, and paying a premium for them. Especially out west. They're that rare.
On that note though, I don't quite understand why the chargers need timers. The batteries aren't going to be over-charged, they'll only charge to the max voltage the charger is putting out. It's not constant current, it's just a multi-tap transformer, 50A when they're nearly full isn't actually going to pull 50A, will it? Though I suppose if the charger is designed to be too high of voltage, you always gotta use the timer. On old sulfated batteries it's good to leave them to hiss and fart and get warm or hot for 24-72 hours to help recondition. Far as I know there's only a couple companies in Canada that actually dump out and replace the electrolyte to refurbish forklift packs and they're all out east. Charge an arm and a dick for it and it's questionable how much life they bring back into them too. I'd let that 36v pack hit 42v for a few days, long as you keep 'em full of water she'll be okay. Probably don't feel like babysitting a ton of lead though. Better things to do.
The transformer will put out close to 50V peak unloaded, so as the amperage tappers over the voltage climbs. It will get high enough to boil the batteries. If you wanted to desulfate them, get a 6v or 12v desulfator and do it per battery in the pack. My buddy has a 48V forklift and we ended up taking 4 Chinese DC input chargers and installing them to each cell, then using the 48V input to power them. They are smart chargers and have actually almost doubled the life in the old pack over about 2 years. Just make sure you get isolated chargers, chaining common ground chargers will result in VERY angry pixies.
My understanding is you can over heat the battery and boil the electrolyte right out of a battery if left on the charger too long.
I was always told that the reason you don't leave them to charger longer is to prevent sulfate build up on the plates, which can over time kill a battery. Realistically speaking, a timer is a pretty crude way of managing charge control to begin with, so I suppose that goes to show how little of a concern it really is.
It's idiot proofing in case you set them to charge on a friday morning and get too excited thinking about beer o'clock to take them off before you leave, if nothing else.
@@alfoncejean8826 actually, lead acid likes to be charged at about 14.8 volts and a float charge of about 13.2 volts.. al for 12volt mind.. so yeah anytime there not on a "smart charger' they can easily be overcharged
I laughed, I cried, I pondered...then I wondered, is Ave Oprah for men?
You are one Fine Forker Uncle Bumble.
The contact plate that hits when you select gear, should be spring loaded against the pivot piece like the forward one is 😉
Ave.. If you had blocked the wheels up, it would have been much less dangerous if the relays had stuck!
1. Remove batteries.
2. Scrap them and get $$$
3. Take $$$, buy small-block Chevy
4. V8 forklift
Easy-peasy.
Electric forklifts are not grounded. The electrical system is closed circuit.
There is no ground. From battery positive, through the circuits, and back in to the battery negative.
If you have voltage to the frame, you have leakage from your battery (electrolytic path) or you have a short to frame in one of your circuit.
Also, at 36 volts, the battery is dead and needs to be charged (80% discharged).
I'll be honest, you don't want a new forklift. Much more complicated. Computerized. Too many more components and wires to shit the bed, and a lot more pain in the ass to troubleshoot.
The first time you have a $5,000 main controller (CPU) or motor controller, or steer controller, or Steer/Tilt controller shit the bed and render the forklift a useless, fault-coding rock, you'll wish you had the old one back.
I knew you wouldn’t let ol crusty get the best of you! 👍🏻
Long time subscriber first time patron. Proud to be supporting the best channel on YT.
my father always told me that "the easiest solution is most often the most correct solution".
Looks like you could have some fun with an arduino and a pile of solid state relays what for removing the resistor drive and replacing it with pwm. Or maybe several separate 555 circuits instead for higher robustosity and field repair capability.
Those resistors and caps are used to give a curved increase in power instead of making it burn rubber every time you have it move... lol
I know this video is over a year old but it looked to me that there was slide points for the selector switch with a spring in between. Noticed that the reverse side was stuck back not allowing it to slide forward.
You are the mother of all forkers. A graduate of Fork U. Thanks - Lumpy
So is AvE secretly building an off-site shop? Maybe it will house all the mining equipment that made the kessell run back in season 1!?
wondered the same
I fix em for free!
Step one buy a good battery, step 2 buy a good ( preferably new ) Forklift. Step three find cheapskate to buy old Forklift.
I recognize that pry bar malfunction. I have the same kink to the business end.
good lord.. this guy actually knows his shit... tappey tappey
perfect vid to go with my after work beverage.
I once refilled an old battery with red bull and it chooched. I was impressed.
I use a nail file to clean contacts, you can close them on the file and do both at the same time. Not the proper way but it will get er done.
Never had the problem doin it with the file on my Leatherman.
I use a piece of 120 grit emery cloth doubled over between the two contacts. One can also build up the contacts with some silver solder and file flat. Contactor kits now have to be mined from the asteroid belt apparently.
Fine so long as you don't mind chasin the forklift across the warehouse. Disconnect the batteries you say? That cuts into tabacoo time.
You could do the same thing with points on a car but the scratches you leave will cause fairly rapid pitting and carbon buildup again.
I'm sure it's been mentioned somewhere in the doobley doo but the problem was that center piece. The forward side wasn't springing all the way to the right *as viewed in the video*
Dude, loving this series. Man after my own heart. Admittedly I don't hoover my place as much as the next women but I can claim to have repaired the same tired old hoover My mum gave me when I moved out in '99. nothing pleases me more than seeing something be jerry rigged to last just a little bit longer. Top man!
It feels almost sacrosanct seeing you pixie wrangling without the famous HPHT.
New might be $40k, but someone else's headache can be had for a few thousand rubles and you can get something built since the invention of safety.
I wish I was smart enough to realize what is going on.... but it still entertaining to watch him problem solve / explain stuff.
I just look for small stuff that might actually help me in my meaningless tinkering.
Nothing like a happy ending. Of course there are better happy endings to be had, I know a few good "massage parlours", but this one is still nice nonetheless
Now the exciting conclusion of AvEvF
Probably been said in the comments but sod it.. I'm not reading all 656 (currently) hilarious as they usually are. I'm guessing the Rode mic radio link didn't like the brief but chubby arcs from the contactors? Without the shielding from the metal covers there's a fair bit of RF energy dancing it's beautiful merry way into the near field.
“Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works” ‘zactly.
Not demonetized? You're slipping. Haven't seen ads on here in awhile.
Lead acid battery is handy in those things on so many levels. Heavy, idiot proof and cheap-ish.
This is an awesome schematic explanation, I have been a novice engineer and inventor for my entire life, only starting to appreciate the basics of electrical engineering you are definitely a role model and I appreciate everything you put up here thank you from the bottom of my heart
Came to hear a Canadian say 'take off'. Was not disappointed.
Im know ur much smarter on this subject than i , however i didnt hear u mention wether id been a good efficacious idea to wash off the acid buildup on the top of those batts which would be minutely shorting out those batts. Rich/San Jose
Nothing like a proper thermal run away to put a proper lasting stench in the warehouse and the nostrils for weeks.
Man I'm going to miss "FOCUS YOU FACK!" if this new camera behaves itself. Oh well. You'll find something else to yell at I'm sure Uncle B!
As a Forkamalift Driver I gotta say watching the last few seconds of this video was painful! Then Again I imagine watching me try to weld something would be equally as painful for you!
looks like some one jammed that selector lever real hard which pushed the contact forward. some real jerk like those who have to tighten down the oil pan bolt so hard it strips out. dont be that jerk. tight is tight. doesnt have to go no more, doesnt have to be super tight.
Its not the idents causing the contacts not to make. The middle of the switch is supposed to float. Watch at 16:19 an you will see it.
He knows that, He said you'd have to take it all apart to adjust it.
I love to take old shit and make it work , or ( Chooch) again. A little TLC with a fine adjustment tool ( AKA a hammer) does wonders. Lol.
Hey AvE when your done forkn around with that lift can you make some stickers? My air compressor collects stickers.
I would upgrade all those electrics to XXIst century inverters and pwm's and whatnot :)
How many 18650 laptop lipos would it take to substitute for those old lead bombs ?
Maybe ol' Elon might have a few spares knocking about ...
Crown has some industrial lithium batteries coming into the market now, VForce brand. Usually it's gonna be prismatic (rectangle box that you can slide in or out) or lipo pouch cells for this application. Way easier to replace bad cells and you don't have to do any parallel connections, just a 170-1000 AH cell and put it in series to reach the proper voltage of 24-48v (or 72v for some European TSPs). Right now they only have it for RCs and WPs. Pepsi bought a bunch of WPs with lithium batteries. They're really good for opportunity charging and not worrying about leaving the battery at 100%. The only problem is it's goddamn expensive, like another $10,000 for this battery over a flooded lead acid.
It'd be more complicated to do series-parallel with the fairly low voltages required. Tesla made a really good BMS system to manage all those cells, but the benefits aren't useful for forklifts and the drawbacks are not worth it.
For the sake of doing it though. Say you have a 3.7v nominal voltage cell, 10 amp output, and 3500mah or 3.5 AH capacity.
You'd need 200 to reach 700 AH, now you need a series connection to get 36 volts nominal, instead of the right now 3.7v nominal. You'd need about 10 in a series to reach 36 volts, you'd be a little over 36 actually, for every parallel connection.
I'm not 100% sure, but that should be about 2,000 batteries for a 36v 700AH battery. With 200 10 amp cells in parallel, you have an output of 2,000 amps. At 36v 2,000 amps, were looking at an output of 72KW. That might be a bit overkill, so you could probably drop down to a 5 amp cell and get a higher capacity per cell and have 1,000 amps or 36KW output.
Now of we use the Tesla batteries which are 2170 format rather than 18650. You've got a 3.7v 4.8 AH cell.
You only need 145 to reach 700 AH in parallel. Now you need 10 in series for every parellel bank to reach just above 36 volts. We're now only looking at 1,312 cells total. Definitely more dense but a lot of cells to manage. If one goes bad, finding and replacing that cell is gonna be a massive bitch.
I fix heritage locomotives in my free time, keeping old iron running is great
Gday AvE...love your vigaoes....watching from Ozstralia...I have a theory...you my friend are actually..Red Green....!!....I challenge you to deny my theory..?... ok await your reply...cheers mate.
"Another poke at the poose" man I might start using that lmao.
occam's razor! Been there before, was working on no start weak crank. Replaced the started after checking the battery.. Ended up being the battery contacts...