Upgrade Your Ride With Shorter MTB Cranks For Less!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Mountain bike trends come and go like the wind and one of the latest trends is shorter cranks. The theory is your regular 170s are too big - even though they come standard on most bikes. OK, people come in different sizes and we have things like different sized pants for a reason. Makes sense.
One thing that is conveniently left out of the videos I've seen on this topic is the elephant in the room - the price! So, lets talk more about this mtb crankset upgrade.
Follow-up video here: • Get a smaller chainrin...
Helpful links:
Crank length diagram from: highpath.co.uk...
Appleman crankset tester: www.applemanbi...
Goldix cranks: s.click.aliexp...
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#mountainbike #mtb #mtblife
Don’t forget, it’s not just the 10mm shorter crank arms, it’s that coupled with four extra teeth on the chainring.
Yeah that's a good point. I wanted to test the complete set but I'm going to put a smaller chainring on and see how that feels.
Fewer not extra. Less leverage
@@thereignofthezero2254:00 he said it's four more teeth than he's used to riding. Jeffrey's comment is correct. Four more extra teeth is a bigger front chainring, harder to peddle than a 32T.
@radiocontrolled9181 you're losing leverage with the shorter crank so why would you go up in teeth on the chainring?
@@thereignofthezero225 I wouldn't but that's not the point. The point is that you misunderstood Jeffrey's initial comment. Read it again slowly and then read your first comment. Doesn't make sense.
The leverage isn't just the crank arm, it's the combination of crank arm, chainring, rear sprocket and wheel size. For more leverage use a bigger sprocket, or smaller chainring, or smaller wheel. The crank length should be determined by what is right for your body , or practical factors like ground clearance and toe/front wheel overlap, not leverage.
100% agree!
Crank length to body is never talked about. It's an important subject because every human is unique to a degree. Two people that have the same height and weight are technically not the same. One might have shorter legs, another might have longer legs, so yeah, cranks have to be adjusted depending on the individual that's riding the bike.
36 tooth front chainring is the problem now. That's going to be a huge difference, especially if you were coming from a 30t- 32t. .... Probably should make a part 2 with the 165 crank arms and compare it back to back with the same amount of teeth on the ring as OEM.
Good idea on the follow up video. I think I'll grab a Wolf Tooth 32 I've been looking at anyway.
If you do much climbing, I suggest a 30 tooth ring.
I am in my 40s, fit, around 5'9" and I went from 175mm to 165mm cranks on my old Transition 26er. Honestly it was an awesome upgrade for me.
I almost eliminated pedal strikes and crushed a bunch of personal bests and set new KOMs.
Gearing stayed the same: 1x9 Shimano with a 34 tooth driving the 11-36 cassette. Both crank sets are Shimano Saint, so it's a true back to back comparison in some gnarly PNW trails.
I think the bike handles better in corners with the shorter cranks too. There's data on my Strava and Trailforks accounts... MX31 is the username.
Perfect music! I drank the coolaid and went from 170 to 160mm. It was tough at first, your not wrong. Less leverage. Now I find myself spinning up hills easier. Gear down a little, refit to your seat, and give it a little time.
Thanks! I dropped down to a 30t and it's much better. Latest video covers it.
I run 3 sets of crank length on my track bike ( 172.+/- to 155 ) ....170 to 160 will make you work much harder then you think with the same teeth ( 51chainring, 13 cog )
You can use a sharpie and blackout the "I" in GOLDIX and it becomes Gold X. Sounds much better. Interesting video, wouldn't have thought about buying an inexpensive crank set to try, good idea. Thanks.
@@georgek1518 thanks! I'm not going to lie, I've thought about adding a D but never losing a letter. Your idea is much better.
You will definitely "feel" the difference with a shorter crank, and if you run through whatever you have on the back...then you'll feel it there too. With larger cassettes ansdshorter cranks, there is a huge difference AND a difference in speed for those that care about that sort of thing.
5'10 and I run 165 cranks +30T oval and my knees never felt better, less strikes, but... shorter cranks will mess with dropper lengths !
I went to 170 from 175 on my XC bike. Sure, fewer pedal strikes and sprinting out of the saddle is a little easier but you also have a higher center of gravity because you have to raise your saddle and your outer foot is higher off the ground in corners so cornering feels less stable/planted. Also you have less lateral knee movement for balance in slow speed techy stuff.
Yeah it's kind of funny how 5mm makes such a different feel on the bike.
My experience as a short rider 5'4" with 27" inseam. Struggled all my life with the usual 170mm cranks which is way to big . Managed to get a single speed 20 odd years ago with kids 155mm cranks they were great . The bike is long gone . More recently got another single speed with 165mm cranks which was just about ok for leverage on a single but still to big . That brings me up to date made a do it all bike from an old Trek 13" mountain bike frame, specialized hard rock comp components, except for the cranks from a cheap foldimg bike 140mm cranks. This is bang on my size . It might sound daft 140mm cranks but at 5'4" they are spot on . Only as you say you need to use a lower gear to match . In my case about 15% less going from 165mm to 140mm. So all things equal you need a 15% lower gear so a 20" low gear would now need to be 17" . In your case you are droping around 5% from 170mm to 160mm . You would need to go from a 32 teeth - 5% = 30 teeth .
No doubt you will have to experiment a bit , but definitely worthwhile. Good luck .
Thanks bro
Nice video. I think you are feeling the increase tooth count more than the shorter length. You should try putting on a chainring with the same number of teeth as the one you took off and see if that feels better.
Thanks and I'm going to give that a try!
Every 5mm shorter should be a tooth less. He should drop 2t. The final result will feel the same because your legs can spin faster if the circumference is smaller.
I am 6'2" and have been on 165mm cranks for years. I feel the lowered range of motion on my knees more comfortable. I got some 150mm goldix cranks earlier in the year for my girlfriend who is only 5' and they seem fine and fit the sram direct mount chainrings.
I haven't ridden them enough to know just yet whether they are right for me but I do like less pedal strikes. Quality is not bad.
I just received a set of 155s for my 5'2" wife. Her Trek 3700 came with 170s and I switched those out for 165s years ago. They helped some, but she still felt like her knees were going too high and her toes too low on the pedal circle. I'm hoping she likes them.
Good luck, I'm betting she likes the fit better@@hankamania
@@hankamania at her size, she might even prefer the 150's or 140's compared to the 155's, but the 155's should feel substantially better than the 165's regardless!
I am 5'7"/30" inseam and now ride 150s with a 28-tooth oval.
Thanks for the video. I've just ordered a new bike and despite being size S it will still come with 170 cranks. Almost fell over at the prices when I started searching for shorter ones. Goldix - that just cracked me up! 🤣
Makes no sense does it? Maybe they the tester they use for small sized bikes are like 80% legs?
I got the Cruz 160mm on AE to replace my 170mm cranks but didn't change the 32t oval chainring. I definitetly felt the decreased leverage and higher cadence.
I then got the 165mm version and it felt better. I got a round 30t chainring to go with the 160mm which I plan to switch back to this Spring. We'll see how it goes. Gotta love AE.
10/10 wordplay😄I went with Ali cheapies as well to experiment, but neglected to buy a set with an amusing name (Senicx FM3). That's a massive jump in teeth for the chainring though, rule of thumb is 10mm crank length is equal to 2 teeth, so you've really gone up 6! I went from 175mm and a 30t to 165mm with 32t and noticed the extra effort on the steep climbs, but prefer it pretty much everywhere else.
Yeah I have a 30 now but haven't ridden it yet. Goldix!
Manufacturers should start making more 150mm 155mm cranks ! Funny I was going to try these cranks ,
I agree, why are we not getting SRAM or Shimano short cranks by now?
Gotta ask whats up with the remembrance flowers on a tree and photo there you passed?
Remember to raise the saddle the same amount you shortened so if 1cm if you go for 1 cm shorter and so on, and move the saddle forward so it's in the same position relative to the BB, shorter cranks, taller the cockpit has to be, more dropper post travel you can have.
If the crank gets shorter, shouldn’t the seat also be lowered relatively?
@@hjapheth If the crank gets shorter, the pedals are higher up, so no.
Try moving your saddle up 10mm and forward 5mm to get the same position. You have less torque and leverage with the shorter cranks and 4 extra teeth that is why uphill is harder. Happy trails!
Thanks for the tip. I finally received the 30t chainring so I'll do some more testing.
Agreed - I had to move my saddle forward and tilt it down a tiny bit. Also had to raise my dropper (that's a tough one to get used to).
I just went with 165 Praxis cranks and a 28tooth oval from 5dev because they were on sale for $49 and it feels alot better on my legs.
Nice. I've never tried an oval, how do you like it?
@@VisionMTB I like it a lot especially on hills.
Great video, I laughed every time you said GOLDIX and that made my day lol
@@benjaminferland4251 heck of a brand name choice right?
Its not the length of the goldix that matters. Its how you ride them.
I see what you did there 😂
I put a set of these on my son’s hardtail last year. Overall I was impressed, but I did have to clear some aluminum shavings out of the threads on the drive side crankarm and one of the chainring retention screws.
Goldix gang! How are they holding up?
@@VisionMTB So far so good. Although, he’s only 8 so he’s not applying a whole lot of torque or sending it off any big drops (yet). lol
It's all well and good trying an ali express crank to just check out a new length. But had you watched the multitude of reviews of how cheap copies cut corners, snap, don't fit, wear out in 2 seconds. I would not be trying to convince people to take up these parts of the basis of daily drivers. There are other cheaper end stuff that are not trying to rip off other companies with cheap shoddy work which unfortunately is 90% of ali express. Some stuff is downright dangerous.
Oh there is definitely a lot of crap on alixpress. I will say though the Goldix have proven to be solid for me even though I did move to 5Dev for my main rig.
I went with their competitor.... GOLDBAWLS
With shorter cranks you can spin much I mean much faster. I’m 5’7 with 32 inseam so not short legged by any means but have always struggled with 175mm cranks on all M sized bikes which I think it’s retarded. Before I’d just swap em with 170 because those were only other options from standard size S bike. But then I came across 165mm cranks and they felt much better. I now run 165mm on all my XC/gravel bikes and 160mm on trail bikes & I gotta say they feel awesome. Another great thing is that I can downsize the chainring size without spinning out at high speeds. Normally I’ll spin out going 30+mph with 32t but with shorter cranks I can pedal beyond 35mm h with same setup on flats.
It’s definitely the chain ring. You can get less teeth and offset it with a smaller oval ring. Also, the leverage ratio is different with crank arms. You cannot compare it to the leverage ratio of a wrench or ratchet, because it is on a spindle and rotate with 2 feet pumping it.
Yep, I've moved to a 30t and I'm going to try an oval next.
Found on AliExpress... OK, but I wouldn't rely on this. I still run a 165mm Race Face Respond bought years ago for 50€ on a german website. Nobody wanted this 'cos it wasn't the "trend" and it was for 104mm chainrings. I LOVE it, it works great and it's bombproof. What else?!! :)
You're right - don't go bombing downhill with super cheap cranks. But. You can test crank length with them easily and cheaply before plunking down big bucks on a nice set.
Remember, your crank is only a gear, so if it takes more effort, use a lower gear on the cassette. Slightly increased cadence will restore speed. Congrats for using a reasonably priced direct from China crank instead of a middleman from China vastly overpriced item. I use Senicx which are probably the same with a more acceptable name. About 50$ including the chainring, 25 bucks without, so it's really cheap to experiment. Took me about 2 weeks to adapt from 170 to 165 but will never now go back to 170. Don't forget the added benefit of reduced toe overlap on road/gravel bikes.
Thanks for being the “ Goldix” tester 🤣 this name 🤷🏻♂️ but I digress 😬 drop a 30 tooth on there and give another report. I enjoyed the shit out of this.
Everyone deserves some Goldix 😆
Got that same 160mm crank 6months ago for my wife's commuter bike paired with a shimano botton bracket
Nice, how's it holding up?
Yeah, I've been looking for a single 165 crank arm and dang, they be rare.
You did a nice job with the music and riding audio.
Thanks!
Yep you will notice it.
I did a quick google while watching your video and found sram 165 with chainring for $70.
Wow that's a good deal but is it ebike with a weird spindle?
It's a crime your channel isn't bigger! Informative and humorous, in the best way!
Thanks bro!
Longer crank arm give more torque..so I stick with 175mm
Thanks for the info update saw some on e-bay similar priced
Thanks for the update info saw similar sized and price on e-bay!!!!!😜
Yep. 165mm is the shortest I tried. Cool acceleration on flats. But don't try climbing. On the other hand, 175mm cranks, although great for climbs, hurt my knees more because of so much movement. 170mm is still too short. 172.5 would be nice. Goldix, I am ready for my purchase!
Goldix!
I found that shorter cranks seemed to make the uphills more difficult, so I changed how I attack the climbs. It's mostly a mindset thing. It's not harder, just different.
@@jimwing.2178 The shorter cranks with the same chainring was not optimal for sure. Going down teeth fixed it
Try a smaller chainring 32 tooth make things easier.
Yeah I'm leaning toward that thanks
I run 30/41 on mine
Hi and thank you. I wonder how you got pedalstrikes on that trail? Maybe try to harden up your suspension to have less sag? Whatever, because of the topic beeing everywhere on the internet right now i measured my cranks, and they are already 160 mm. I´m riding that bike for 2 years now, didn´t knew it. Seems to be kind of voodoo... I think there is use for some, but not sure about it
The geometry of the enduro bikes puts the bottom bracket a little lower. On that trail there's a series of big roots that you stutter over and can catch a pedal.
@@VisionMTB Thank you and fine it helped. No offense :)
One thing about a cheap set of crank arms, if they snap! You'll know it right away.
Ive seen various cranks in the 99.99 area, Gotta hunt around and google alot.
Im thinking 150 or 155 on my canyon spectral on, pedal strikes are just about knocking me off the bike.
Yeah I'm keeping a close eye and ear on these. Finding Sram or Shimano shorties is way harder than it should be.
Trust me: their are very few co's making short cranks! Shimano, SRAM, RF - good luck. It will likely be a while before they get with it. For now, Canfield is the best value; 5Dev if you’re flush!
Shorter cranks are not the answer to pedal strikes. Pedal strikes are optional because they are caused by operator error. First set your sag properly. Next, learn to time your pedals strokes and use ratchet strokes. Make it a game to finish a ride without pedal strikes by using good technique.
@@jimwing.2178 I agree that technique can compensate for lower BB height but maybe we're getting too low and too slack. We're not all riding DH all the time.
I think your feeling the larger chainring. Theoretically speaking, shorter crank arms should feel like you removed a tooth or so from your front chainring resulting in an easier, slightly lower gear feeling. But since you added 4 teeth, you negated that and added an even higher gear to the front, requiring more torque to spin the cranks. You should replace the chainring with an equal size to the one you started with or find one 1 tooth larger. Also your chain is now too short for the drivetrain and needs to be longer to accommodate the larger chainring.
While I agree that he's probably feeling the larger chainring the most in this test, can you explain why you think shorter crank arms would achieve an "easier, slightly lower gear feeling"? Everything else I've seen or read indicates that shorter crank arms give a bit * less * leverage and should therefore be compensated with a slightly easier * smaller * chainring.
I like your brand of content
Thanks, I appreciate that.
0.41*tibia length in cm.
I bought 160, then 155, perfection. I’m 181cm
When you go with shorter cranks you need to also go down a few teeth on the front chain ring to compensate for the loss of crank leverage. The fact that they supplied a 36 tooth ring is really throwing a monkey wrench into this experiment. Do they offer a 28 or 30 tooth ring?
Nope but I bought a 30t and did a follow up video. I also have a nice 30t Wolf Tooth elliptical I'm going to try.
@@VisionMTB "@ctsingletrack Do they offer a 28 or 30 tooth ring? @VisionMTB Nope" Goldix * does * offer a 28 or 30 tooth chainring with their crankset kits. Maybe you just made a mistake ordering it with the larger chainring? 🧐
@@nicknelson9450 no doubt I probably did. But I learned some valuable things so that's ok.
Liked and subbed!
Nice video. Let us know if those cranks are good quality on the long run.
By the way, you have to move your seat higher since your pedal at the 6 o'clock position is higher by 10mm. You might also have to move it forward.
Thanks. I did bump the seat up but not forward, felt fine but I might tweak next ride.
@@VisionMTB : Cool !
Do you know if these crank arms can potentially work with a Shimano Crankset for road?
@@musclelessfitness2045 I don't know about that but the same brand makes road cranks too.
Taddy Porter - Solid!
Yeah bro, great beer. They were out of the ESB so this was my second choice.
The 5Dev marketing is probably the largest catalyst for the latest crank length debate. Virtually every content creator has a full complement of 5Dev cranks on hand to discuss. 😂
36t ring with short cranks isn’t a good match for easy climbing
I agree. I think Canfield is a better up-scale choice if you're sure you want shorter cranks and they offer BBs with the cranks. Still, the Chinese option is great for giving it a try. I also have a 30t on the way to test and I'll post a follow-up vid.
I’m running XT cranks so was about $155 to swap to a shorter crank. Not terrible.
@@tinshield what size? I didn't have much luck finding Shimano or SRAM in 165s or smaller.
@@VisionMTB 165 check Thunder Mountain Bikes. Every time I post the link it’s removed.
165 is the shortest you can get from all the "biggies."
Turn the G into a C for those cold weather rides! 😂
Other than the lack of peddle strikes this test is scrod since your used a 34 tooth chainring dude!!!
@@mattblack133 I know right! I did move down and then oval in subsequent vids.
@VisionMTB oh cool.... I'll go dig around your page see if I can find them. I'm right in the middle of making all these changes, but like you said... may not be worth the $ for the name brand stuff and I don't want goldendix. Lol keep up the good work. 👍
170s are fine for the middle of the bell curve of people sizes. 175s are a tad too long for me at 41yo male / 6’1” / 33” inseam. My body loves 172.5s, but those aren’t common, so going to give 170s a try next.
If only CNC machines were like 3D printers we could all buy for home use then we could really get the perfect fit.
My wife thinks bigger is better. I'm gonna send her your video.
It's not the size of the cranks, it's how you use them.
thats hilarious, they need better English interpreters in the Chinese factory advertisment departments! Great fun review. These new breed of enduro bikes have some seriously low BBs!
The BBs are dragging on the ground! The name is just so confusing, I can't find a Google translation that makes any sense.
He tells it is not the size is how you use it 😂
🤣
I like that trail 😮
Stillwell Woods, my go-to trail.
i've been seeing a lot of 170-175 cranksets for sale on the typical pages.. guess it is catching on..
i started looking into it when Steve from hardtail party (one of the first to dive into this topic) and got a set of 155's for my enduro rig. i have a couple bikes with 160's too. there's no way a guy like me with a 30" inseam would ever ride 165's or 170's again.
You know new bikes still cost a lot, they could easily toss in another set of crank arms. I'm a 32 and like the 160 on the enduro. Steve was one of the first with all those Canfield's.
this is pretty much the reason i build my own bikes: the saddle/seat and cranks, bars, dropper and other stuff is never what i want so i dont shop at LBS. the last 3 bikes i've purchased were frame only. still, LBS should put cranks on the bike right there in the store based on who's buying it! although, the big 2 are still doing 165s at smallest. no wonder i keep seeing GX and XO cranks on the market. i think the riders are swapping them out, on their own nickel. @@VisionMTB
@@mikestivers8302 Yeah I like to tinker too much for prebuilts too. Playing around, fixing my screwups, it's all part of my MTB process.
3:50 That's an massive chain ring. is it removable? which mountain standard does it use? 32T would be more reasonable. I guess if 29er 32T to 28T. 26er: 34T, 36T depending on cassette, maybe even 38T. But if going for 42T or 46T I think 34T, 36T might be suitable. 50T Cs is overkill even with 34T, for most stuff, but super easy. So maybe 36 or 38 would fit that. But smaller cassette is lighter.
> 3:27 _With a name like Goldix, you gotta bring the drip_
I need an adult. Or maybe a doctor
It's not easy having Goldix
Over your entire pedal stroke it's actually 20 mm shorter. How are your knees liking the change?
I just put the 30t on so I can't rightly say just yet. With the 36t I can't say I felt the difference but you know, 36 tooth.
@@VisionMTB I hope the new ring helps.
$25 for 165...worth a shot. Thanks
i have the same goldix 160mm crank. but apparently the spindle is longer than my old cranks so i have to put more spacers, do you experience the same thing when installing it?
I didn't have that issue, just one little spacer for me.
liked and subscribed
Thanks!
Could you use a Shimano xt chainring with the goldicks?
I didn't think so
I believe this short crank trend is for ebikes. At 6' i need no less than 175 for geared and 180 for my single speed
This is definitely a thing with ebikes that's true.
Will these cranks work with a boost frame?
Both frames I had them on were boost.
@@VisionMTB Thanks. I attempted to install them today 2 spacers on the left and one on the right side. Do you remember what spacers you used? Mine didnt come with instructions and I found it on another stores description.
@@SHORT84691 Hmm I think I had 2.5 on both inner left and inner right.
i think i saw the same ones marketed as kids ones on aliexpress.
@@ianpearson8976 yep that's them. I think it's because they are shorter though.
Goldix the best Children's bike cranks at only 24.99 yes only 24.99 😂 honestly though you must be the only person ive seen with one these thats not worked loose
LMAO, "Gold Dix" Leave it to the Chinese. Subscribed.
Ya on a e bike. I will stik with my 178. Cant clime with short cranks.
Of course you can. Smaller chainring. Get stronger, lol!
I’m 6-2 and have running 175 cranks for over thirty years. To me, this is just marketing BS.
I hear you but you're not the market for this with your super long legs.
Dude you have a 36 chain ring on there! It’s not the Kranks! I mean it is, but jumping from a 32 to 36 is way more than losing 10 mm on your crank length! And who gives a shit about money! Go buy those five devs in titanium or look at some EE wings!
Thanks, I have a 30t now. The point was to save money and see if you like it before spending 💰 on the others.
stupid test... when you watched the other you may heared that you need a smaller chainring when you use a shorter crank.... Then the climbing wouldn't be so hard...
Thanks for commenting. The video was primarily about the price of cranks but yes, a smaller chainring is preferable. I used the one that came with the kit to see how well it shifted. I'll update with smaller ring soon.
Climbing? Hard? :) If those trails have 100 feet of vertical gain I'd be surprised.
@@EarlLewis lol, hey it's a mostly flat island. Still, I just checked Garmin and it's 163ft!
Goldix are labelled as childrens cranks. Woulda gone with CRUZbike cranks.
I think you paid too much for it. I paid 39$ same set as yours.
Oh man. Well, how are your Goldix holding up?
*Price and Profit is the elephant in the room. Just another bicycle trend IMHO. Plus, just do the math, shorter cranks mean less leverage/less forward movement each pedal stroke.
They also mean less damage to the hips and knees of us shorter riders.
@@Korina42 it could damage hips and knees, that’s true in general.
@@hardmtnbiker Do you mean short cranks? Have you ever hurt yourself walking up short steps?
@@Korina42 I haven’t hurt myself walking up big steps or riding long distances with 175mm crank’s either. So I probably won’t hurt myself with shorter crank’s, shorter strides, shorter steps. I think we can generally agree that bikes could be more size appropriate with any of the parts but I probably won’t be riding a 26” wheel bike because 29er wheels are too big for shorter riders. They probably won’t be making 36” wheel bikes for super tall riders either.
This is plain and simple just a trend backed by basic ergonomics principles that don’t really matter to the masses. Especially when you consider the fact that many people are not having issues with cranks that are too long.
If a pedal stroke is one complete circle, then a pedal stroke will turn the chainring one complete revolution, regardless of crank length. So how does that translate to less forward movement for each pedal stroke?
I’m sticking with stock cranks. All you short kings can keep your stubby cranks
👑
Putting Ali Express components on your bike is to take your life in your own hands. The reason they're cheap is because they don't have the quality control you get from a reputable company.
Sometimes the quality is actually good. Sometimes not that's for sure. For testing shorter cranks I feel comfortable giving them a try.
Goldix makes great products. Amazon sells way worse brands
Hogwash. The reason they're cheaper is because they don't have the marketing costs, overhead costs, and markup of "reputable" companies. Parts from Ali Express can be hit or miss, yes, but frankly, so can parts from bigger brands. The marketing machines at the "reputable" companies want everyone to think that they have PhD materials scientists in lab coats testing every part before it goes out to the customer, but the truth in most cases is their QC is barely different from what you'd get from a seller on Ali. If you're willing to do a little research, it's not at all hard to find products that are on par with the quality of name brands.
@@MrJacobegg Your straw man argument aside (who said anything about scientists in lab coats?), there's a reason Chinese junk sells for cheap, and it's not because it's manufactured to the same quality standards as components from a reputable company that stands behind its products.
@@Durwood71 yeah... I don't think you know what a straw man argument is LOL. And yes, there's a reason, and 90% of that reason is overhead costs and markups, not QC like you claimed. You dismissing it as "Chinese junk" just shows your bias. The overwhelming majority of parts sold by "reputable" companies are manufactured in China, often in the exact same factories. Shipping those parts to the US and selling them under an established brand name doesn't suddenly make them not "Chinese junk." 🙄
*it's a money grab for the industry.
10mm does make that much of a difference yes, the simple maths agrees
ofc using a bigger chainring kinda messes up the comparison though its probably alot harder than it should be
and thats a big chainring honestly
you could easily get all the leverage you need back with a 32t oval or something
forty-six dollars!!??!? Can't really go wrong no matter how you slice it... but that NAME?! Why not Goldog or Goldfist or Goldcranx? ANYTHING other than GoldDicks!!! (yeah, I saw it's d-i-x, but I thought I'd intentionally misspell for emphasis) ;-) fun video. Hope them dix don't snap in half on ya mid ride...keep us posted
It's hilarious right?
"Cant go wrong", then "hope don't snap in half on ya". That's a whole lotta could go wrong!!
@@garyking508 true, but they seem pretty solid so far
For the algorithm 🤩🥰💪🫶😁😎👌🥸🤓🥳🫡
Lol, not really. I had planned this video for weeks and the day I go to shoot I see Seth's. I even commented on his about this. Still, mine is a bit different.
My son worked it out (mechatronics & robotics grad). It is linear, but it's actually 5.469 mm per tooth, in this range of lengths.
im running some aliexpress kids cranks too 152mm, never going back!
i have a goldix cassette and love it too
btw the whole leg measuring thing is bullshit and not based on any maths or research its worse than just guessing
a better method is to actually do the maths for your drive train to determine what length to try based on how fast you want to go in a given cadence in top gear and how hard you want to be pushing in that gear
stuff is still missing because it still requires trial and error to get perfect but if you can figure out from your current drivetrain what cadence speed and effort all feel best to you then you can reverse the maths to adjust all these numbers to align where you want them
just have a play around with sheldon browns gear calculator with the gain ratio and mph at x rpm functions and youl get what im talking about
Yeah it's a bit hit and miss. I played around with Sheldon's calc but just gave up and went 160. I'm happy with it.
@@VisionMTB and ordered a larger chainring...does not compute! 😂