Battery Ammeter/Voltage Sensor - Test, Review and How To
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Here I am reviewing DROK 0-90V 100A DC Ammeter Voltmeter (amzn.to/39iN0QI affiliate link). It's a great tool for monitoring voltage and amps, while also being able to disconnect the load due to low voltage or other reasons. Pretty useful - please comment or ask questions below!
And here is the contactor I used:
amzn.to/39mjoBU
Wow, I did not know, what all these other settings were, and how useful they could be. Thanks for the brief description.
Normally these coulomb counter SOC meters have a setting for high and low reset because if it stays based on current in minus current out for too long it will drift. Disregarding the load cutout limits, your LifePO4 battery might be fully charged at 14.6v, so at that time it should reset the AH to your limit entered in OAH and the SOC meter will go to 100%. And if the battery gets to 10v it should automatically set 0 AH and the SOC indicator will show 0 and start climbing as its charged.
So lets say you have 50 AH battery and set that in OAH, then as you charge and added 40AH it would show 80% SOC and 40.0 AH. Then if suddenly you got a load more than your charge current it starts draining and SOC slowly drops 79%, 78%….55%, then when load is less than charge it will climb again.
You can manually reset it when you charge but its better if it automatically resets during a normal charge cycle.
Of course now you have to factor in the charger voltage limits and the load voltage limits. If your charger is set to charge to only 14v then the high reset needs be that just below that value. As long as its not near the flat part of the voltage curve.
Perhaps the OVP and LVP shut down the display AND reset to the AH limit or 0AH when it restarts. Clearly you don’t need those limits to protect the meter because it works its not going to fry at 15v. The high and low reset should have its own setting and not shut the display down but who knows.
I know you haven’t played with that in a while but if you do maybe can try to get it working in full auto, such that anytime you read it its showing accurate SOC, and automatically resets periodically.
Thanks for the info!!
Trying to run through all your videos to LIKE (for you). I like what I am seeing. Enjoy the level of details (I am MsE). Camera work is irritating. Hoping in later videos you will have tripod, backed off a little. Put everything in frame. No need for close ups. When you movie the camera to follow your finger tip ... there is too much movement. Can't really follow. Then you pause camera at the location you are talking to....it lasts 1 second before you move it again. Ugh! Wait-what? Nonetheless, keep up the good work. Looking forward to watching your channel.
I appreciate the likes and the feedback. I'm trying to improve the camera work.
Great video! So if you have the relay set up this can basically replace a solar controller (for basic solar vs batter protection) ?
Thanks, your video helped a lot since I received no instructions with the device whatsoever. (could you post a link to the manual, please?) Instead of a relais I just wanted a warning light so I connected a led. It's always on no matter what alarm settings I use. E.g. high voltage alarm OVP on (green) set to 10 V or set to 15 V with a reading of 12,5 V. LED is on, turning the alarm off: LED is on. Any idea what is going wrong? Thank you for your time and effort.
Sorry, I haven't worked with this thing for a while so I don't have the manual and I'm not sure what is going on unfortunately. But your LED may be too low a voltage - there may always be a low voltage going across that circuit if connected. LEDs tend to be very, very low voltage. Trying running something else that requires a higher voltage to work.
@@TheWilltoBuild Thanks, I check it out and let you know.
shunts monitor the negative lead but hall sensors should have the positive lead through it... schematics for hall sensors say positive is used but it seems to work with the negative too
I think positive and negative should both work, but I've just been using it as the schematics suggest.
Mine shows putting the red + thru sensor. I'm just not sure sending 58.8 volts power to unit.
Good info
Thanks, appreciate it.
What is the recommended voltage for the unit power? I have a 58.8 volt. measurement.
Im wanting something like this for a second battery in my campervan. Can I wire it in such a way to show the current the second battery is receiving, during driving times, and then the power that's being consumed by appliances when I'm stopped and its isolated?
You can definitely wire it in such a way that you can see what is going in and out of that specific battery. So if it is a second battery, you can definitely wire it to show the net power going in or out of just your second battery.
@@TheWilltoBuild Thanks. I've since done some more research and now I'm clear on how the setup works.
Hi. I have the same meter, haven't installed it yet. My only issue is the length of the cable from the sensor to the display. I need one about 4-5 feet long. This will be going in my golf cart. I can't find any that are premade. I saw one comment on Amazon that if you extend it, you need to use shielded cable. So I thought about extending it will a shielded ethernet cable. Any other ideas?
I tried to find a cable to buy, but couldn't. Given that, I would think the best way to move forward would be to extend it. Shielded ethernet cable could be good - just make sure the connections for the extension are rock solid and that you cover them in shrink wrap.
the solenoid is a big resister sucking power all the time its on ?
Yep, the power lost will depend on the contactor.
Can you supply a wiring diagram
I wish I could, but I did this video a while ago and the device does come with one.
Nice informative video. One tip tho, drop the uh-ah-ahms, its disruptive. Here is the amount i noted while watching this short video;
ah ah ahm ahm ahm ah ahm ah ah ahm ahm ah uhm ah ah ah ah ah ah ahm ah ahm ah ah ahm ah ah ahm ah ah uhm ah ahm ah ah ah ah ahm ah ahm ah ahm ah ah ahm ah ahm ahm ahm uhm ahm ah ah ah ahm ahm ah ah ah ahm uhm uhm ah ah ahm ah ah ahm ahm ah uh ahm ahm uh ah ah
Thanks for the feedback. It's till a new channel, so definitely some room for improvement still.
@@TheWilltoBuild mate, don't worry about it.
what video are you watching? A few umms/ahhs here and there but he's very well spoken
This is more of a "Here's what I did" video rather than a tutorial. The assumption here seems to be you already played around with it a bit. Not much good info on basic configuration and operation. Slow down, get a tripod. Makes me nauseous trying to follow this.
Randy, I bet you are a really fun guy.
makes perfect sense to me and I dont own one, just a PZEM-015, DL24, "200A" Wattmeter, DT-24, and some other little devices for measurement. Dont want to buy this and get frustrated by flying blind and toss it in a drawer out of frustration. This and another video make me comfortable enough to buy it now
the relay is 24 volt on your link but your batteries are 12 volt can you use a 24 volt many thanks colin
The contactor I used was 24 volt! I used an external power supply for the contactor which was 24v. You could easily use a 12 volt though, but make you use a "normally open" contactor. That way if the battery dies, the contactor will be open by default and hopefully prevent draining of the battery.
@@TheWilltoBuild THANK YOU I WILL ORDER NOW