The Titanium Hammer vs Steel Hammer Debate
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Titanium Hammers vs. Steel Hammers Which One Is Better?
The titanium hammer vs. steel hammer debate has been going on at my job site for a few years now. The questions all address whether titanium hammers are worth the cost, which is sometimes 4-5 times more than a steel hammer, and do they REALLY prevent injuries.
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Was old enough to have started pre nail gun era when we hand nailed everything, now it’s all nail guns and that’s what really saves the wrists and the elbows
I'm not too sure they are worth the extra cost but i'm a tool freak so i bought one anyway.
Hey Rob, love your channel, I've been a carpenter for 20 years, when you 're young and think you're indestructible you swing what you want. Then you become older and wiser and looking to maximize efficiency, I've switched to a Stilletto 14 oz milled face hickory handle 2 years ago and was the best move I ever made.
Thanks and keep it up👍
When I was younger I always used big steel hammers ( 22 Oz ) . Around age 25 my elbow started really hurting . So I got a 15 Oz titanium and it helped but didn't eliminate all the pain . So for the past 5 yrs I use a 10 ounce titanium hammer . And now I'm pain free . Yes it takes me a few more swings to drive that 16 penny nail compared to the other guy but at least I'm on the job site to do it ! Update of all the guys telling me im doing something wrong . Im a concrete guy so most of the time im using my hammer to set and beat steel wall forms , also ive got 25 yrs of troweling concrete on my elbow too .
Tony Limbaugh I have the same problem with my elbow after years of driving nails and have found taking cod liver oil tablets daily realy helps as well as using a lighter hammer
what a pussy
@@ib4wp48 yeah u are
I'm 28 and I appreciate when guys talk about the changes they make to help you work longer! Imagine if you had a light hammer since day one!
Young mans logic. "Bigger, better, faster, harder, longer... I can run with the big dogs - you wait and see!". That's the only reason 28Oz California framers are still on the market. Nobody needs 28Ozs to drive 16 or 18 penny nails. My generstion probably suffered more from it, than present generation new carpenters. Especially since it's more or less a requirement to take care of yourself these days - wasn't always so. Just work and drop dead. As far as using a framing hammer for anything other than designed use: There is ALWAYS a better tool for the job. We have the technology! Doesn't matter if it's a cat's paw, crow bar, burke bar, wooden club or a sledge hammer... They're all better suited to shift walls. Same for demo, although with a bit different tool lineup. Be safe guys - take care of yourself and your tools, and they'll earn you a living for a long time! ...And go get that titanium hammer, that suits you best. Better sooner than later.
Hi guys I’m a 72 year carpenter from New Jersey. Started framing in 1971. Framed over 100homes, even more renovations. The only trouble I ever had was with a True Temper Rocket and a Stanley because of their tubular design. I have used Estwing since ‘74 and have a few where the handles have turned dark green and brown. Still use them sometimes also like Plumb hammers. If you’re framing every day, wood handles are the king. Renovations I still use Estwing. One thing I have noticed over the years is that many guys just don’t swing a hammer properly. You don’t need to put your thumb on the back of the handle unless you are working over your head, loosen your grip some, that will relieve the sting. I think the titanium hammers are great, However at my age I’ll stick with wood for the most part. And maybe because I may not be nailing as much as I used to. Love your channel. I think the newer guys will learn well from your channel. ThaKeep up the good work and God Bless. Thank You
I'm glad that you're safety oriented. It's something many of the vets in the game don't give 2 shits about, and it's sad knowing that they'll build great things, and have broken bodies once they retire.
Keep it up man, spread the word, PPE/Safety first!
I'd like to hang around awhile!
They're not. Dead on Tools, Dalluge, and Vaughn also make them.
Safety isn’t manly, don’t you know?
24oz Bluegrass curved claw on it's 12th hickory handle. I prefer octagon handles while my father and grandfather prefered smooth. Grandad bought it when he arrived here from Sweden.
Shame they no longer offer this weight any more. The trick with these heavy hammers is a loose grip and a relaxed wrist letting the weight do all the work
I admire the lightness and feel of the titanium hammers, but I have a slightly different philosophy about hammers. DON'T TRY TO KILL THE NAIL. Hit the nail squarely and any nail can be driven with any hammer. When I try to kill the nail, I usually have missed and once I lost a thumbnail when nailing together form boards way back when. I put up my steel 22oz Estwing for a steel 15oz Estwing because it was a pain in my elbow.
You tool videos are quite informative. Thanks
When you frame professionally, its more about the hammer and less about your technique, we use nail guns, and when we reach for a hammer, we reach for what every framer dreams about, the stiletto.. TBoneII has no rival, its the mother of all hammers and once you have one, you dont switch to something else.
Cry of the Prophet Martinez M1? 🙄
I'm with Barry... by the time the hammer strikes the nail, you should have released tension from the elbow and wrist.
@ Cry The Prophet - You are correct in that, in today’s framing, everything is done with a nail gun and your hammer is used to ‘knock’ things into place. For that exact reason, you want a hammer with some mass. Simple physics - Mass+Acceleration=Force. More mass or more acceleration = more force.
Titanium hammers are a gimmick OR for rookies who haven’t perfected a proper swing yet.
🤜🤛
Honor Harrington, you also are absolutely right, a loose grip with a 24 Ounce steel hammer, with a wood handle. One good smooth relaxed swing. 40 years and no elbow issues.But it’s a good topic Rob keep up the good work
Excellent video. I been swinging a hammer for 35 years and times have changed a lot. Not much hammer use anymore, but the Stiletto company did make a helluva difference in the hammer industry. I use the 10 oz finish hammer more nowadays, but almost every guy still framing uses the all titanium heavier ones. I like the hickory handle, but the heavy ones, with replaceable faces are pretty nice tools. Once again, kids got it too easy. :) I remember framing, sheathing, roofing, trimming and stick frame rafters with no pneumatic tools, cordless tools or OSHA. The labor pool has decreased and the tools have gotten better. What irony.
I hope you do more videos like this. You provided some GREAT info on the subject. Thanks!!!!
I'll stick to my short handled 8 pound sledge.
cody hevener you use that for framing ?
@@jorgemedina1023 nah he uses it for cabinet making, you should see his framing hammer!
I don't have the time to read all the replies, pardon the duplication in my comment, but I've been framing for 40 years, I'm 60 now. I have carried different size hammers in my truck for different types of framing. I've used everything from a 28oz rigging ax to a 21 oz Daluge (when it was actually made by Daluge), Hart, Vaughn, Stanley, Fat Max, etc, all with wooden handles. I won't use a steel handled or fiberglass handled hammer! (by the way, I keep extra handles in my truck also). Of course the older I get the lighter a hammer I use. By far the best hammer I have ever used is the 23 oz Daluge. I've tried lighter hammers including the Titanium type and all they do is make me swing harder. I have no chronic elbow or arm fatigue. About 25 years ago we all went to nail guns anyway so no one uses a hammer the same way I did when I was younger. Consequently the younger carpenters aren't strong enough to use the heavier hammers all day everyday. The single most part of my body that has been beat up over the years is my lower back. For the cost, the Titanium hammers are a scam.
I love hammers, so why have just one? Most days I swing my Mini 14. But some days I get out the big Estwing to tear crap apart and other days I get out the meaty Vaughn 23oz because I'm not working over my head so much and I love swinging it to drive nails. There's something satisfying about a hickory handled California Framer. But overall I do believe in Titanium. I can't justify a Tibone 15 or a Martinez M1 at this time.
I used and still have a Stilleto 14oz. After 14 years of use I have gone back to a steel hammer. I'm on my second handle, hickory ax as shown, but I've found no real reason to stick with titanium. For one, the striking power of my steel hammer allows me to nail with better results with less swing, especially toe nailing and in tight places. Also, since I use a gun whenever practical physical wear and tear is not really an issue. The knees and age are the biggest issues. I will only use a wood handle. Why? Not sure but it just feels right in my hand and more natural and ergonomic to swing. Could just be habit. The Stilleto head that was waffled is now smooth as glass with chunks missing which has never happened with my steel hammers to the degree of the titanium. I'm glad that the Stilleto was a Christmas gift from another contractor because knowing what I know about them after 14 years and being a dyed in the wool yankee, I would definitely not invest the money.
Why is stiletto the only manufacturer of titanium hammers?
Harley Mothersole there are others, for example master craft has one, but stiletto is the best know
They're not - Dead on Tools, Dalluge, and Vaughn
AbbieHoffmansGhost couldn't have said it any better, completley agree with you
Totally agree. The main reason I don't have a titanium hammer is price (I'm also a yankee). Stilleto's new hammers, btw, have a replaceable face because yeah that happens. The real reason I'm replying though is that there are a few definite reasons why I prefer wood handles. 1) Shock absorption, I think everyone knows that. 2) Raw hickory (no finish) is way less slippery than any synthetic grip I've ever used. 3) Weight. For driving nails anyway the only part of the hammer that needs to have heft to it is the head. 4) Custom fit. I almost always reshape my handles before taking them to work. Granted I have to do this because wood handles don't last forever, but it's nice having it just right.
So if a heavier hammer it better for tweaking a wall over or pounding a 2x into place, doesn't it follow that it would move a nail better too?
i recently bought a titanium hammer after using my friends one day to pound in narrow Crown staples in a kitchen floor that were left in the subfloor after we pulled the luan up. a job like that consists of a lot of repeated swings and I was amazed at the difference in the lack of fatigue I felt when I was done. that was enough for me to be convinced. I still use my old estwing for projects that require heavy duty prying that I don't trust the wooden handle of my titanium to handle but for driving or hammering it titanium all the way!
Good stuff Rob, I hadn't thought about recoil that much. Also glad to see you changed your site format! No more two clicks for me:)
Thanks for the tip
I'm still in my 2nd year of framing and have to say reading the comments along with your video has given me lots of information to soak in. Thank you !
How old are you? The reason I ask is, I'm 42, starting framing at 17, and my hands, wrists, and up into my elbows are getting worn out. I have had a doctor look at them, but I'm pretty sure that I have carpel tunnel. My hands go numb every night while I'm sleeping.
Just don't be like me when I started out. Lol, I tried to show off to much with how many studs could we carry at one time, lifting beams by myself, and just ruining my back. Keep in mind that how you take care of your body today, will determine how much pain you have to deal with in your older years.
When I need a framing/roofing hammer, I prefer the old Plumb 22 oz straight claw hammer. Drives a 1 1/2" roofing nail with a tap and one bam.
On any work larger than a square, coil nailers all day long. For framing, a 28 degree pneumatic nailer wins hands down.
For maximum driving power on a hammer, the majority on the weight needs to be in the head. Not the greatest balance in a hammer, but the most efficient in transmitting force to a nail.
Titanium is a large spring. It's not as shock absorbent as you believe. There was a time with racing bicycles that everyone was going to titanium for the ride comfort over steel, plus the weight reduction. Those days are gone and now it's carbon fiber as it doesn't transmit the shock like metals do.
I'm a framing carpenter in Southern Louisiana. I used to think that the Estwing 22oz. was the king of framing hammers, that is until I purchased a 14 oz. synthetic handle Stilletto Titanium hammer. I realize that the extra cost is a lot, especially for a framer supporting a family as well, but in the humid summer months when your tool belt feels like it weighs 60lbs. and it is so hot you can hardly think, you will be glad you spent the extra money on shedding weight.
Bill Money thanks for the feedback
I have used the traditional Calf. framer for years, then move to Stiletto. There was an adjustment period but its my daily driver now. A lot less arm fatigue at the end of the day, less weight on the belt. Only draw back is price and longevity. In the end the tool works for me - I don't work for the tool.
I have both types. I love my stiletto 14oz but have to replace the handle every 6-8 months due to the amount of nails I pull.
I’d say Estwing 22oz is the best all around hammer for framing/demo, but there’s nothing better than pounding a nail with a Stiletto.
Makes sense to me, Thank you Rob for shedding the light on this 👍
Rob, I love the feel of a Hickory handle over anything, but they really aren't the way to go unless you wrap them and here's why. The coefficient of kinetic friction, (slippage), of a wood handle is less than the amount of slippage of a rubber coated handle. In other words, it takes more pressure to grip a wood handle than a rubber one to keep it from slipping from your hand. The extra force required to grip a tool will cause just as much, if not more damage to your body as will a strike. A strike lasts but a fraction of a second, whereas you are gripping the hammer the through the entire swing - back and forth. Also, the harder you grip the handle, the more vibration from the strike is transmitted to your arm. As a test, try holding a hammer with a wood handle and have someone try and pull the hammer from your hand by gripping the head. Now repeat the test with a rubber handle. I think you can guess the outcome without even trying. The differences may be small, but they do add up over time.
Pro1er excellent points sir
I got the worst blisters from rubber that’s why I switched to wood I just get calises now
Sand the handle down and coat it in double boiled linseed oil. It'll increase your grip and give you a natural feel
FINALLY, the hammer topic, i been waiting for this all my life! thank you!
there are lots of opinions
If you’re new to framing, just get a light hammer. Anything from 14-16oz will do. 90% of framing is done with nails guns, and another 5% is done with palm nailers. The last 5% is when you don’t have a nail gun readily accessible. I still recommend a titanium hammer, just because they’re light and when you do need to really use it for tough nailing it’ll breeze through many nails. That’s only if you have the extra money though and are planning on making framing a career.
Haven't had the opportunity to use a titanium hammer. For seldom use, a lighter hammer will be easier to carry on belt all day. The lighter hammer will be easier to use above your head. For pounding, especially at waist level or below,, a heavier hammer head will be less work for experienced hands. Fewer easy, big whomps are less tiring than many grunting, tappy taps. You want a grip that rests easily in your hand with a light grip force. If the handle is slippery, or not ergonomically shaped, or is too short, you work too hard gripping the thing. *Get a comfy shaped grip.* A properly shaped grip lets you swing easy without a death-grip. To me, I like bigger steel heads on longer , shaped, wooden handles. Steel handles are really durable, but if you bang with them all day, the vibration gets to you. These days, carpenters probably carry a hammer for infrequent use. They'll use a pneumatic tool for most work. The light weight hammer with a metal handle makes sense for that,. If you swing with many hard impacts per day, a wooden or fiberglass handle makes more sense. If you're on a ladder, or working above your head, carry a lighter hammer. If working at a bench, use the big hammer with a wooden handle.
*Have good kneepads.*
Well said. Proper technique is key. Today guys only use their hammer to ‘knock’ something around so they haven’t developed proper swinging technique due to lack of practice.
🤜🤛
Very interesting topic. I am not a full time carpenter, but grew up building houses with my father who has now been a carpenter for around 50 years, and I also still do a large amount of side work and am currently remodeling a 1890 farm house. Growing up I always used a 22 oz fiberglass handle, with good results. Within the last 10 years i switched to a 28 oz Stanley antivibe steel hammer. I could never use a steel hammer; i could literally only drive a few nails with a traditional estwing steel hammer before my elbow started screaming at me. The stanley antivibe has none of these issues.
Also, as at least one other poster commented, with the use of nail guns, repetitive nail driving for large portions of the day are largely a thing of the past with nail guns. So, the argument of wear and tear on the elbow is at least somewhat lessoned with that in mind. The other main thing we use hammers for, as you mentioned, is postitioning walls and other "brute force" type tasks. Steel takes less swings to perform these tasks. With these things in mind, the cost per use rises even more when compared to steel. But as always, great video, keep up the good work!
Switched to a titanium hammer after 12 year of a 22 oz steel hammer and I would never go back purely on the wait reduction on the nail bag all day
I want one, but as a light commercial plumber the only repetitive hammering I usually do is chipping concrete, brick, and block. started using a snapon deadblow. so much power, so little vibration!
Mike Zeke - Are you using a straight dead blow hammer, or a dead blow ball peen?
Jeffrey Tieman ball peen, works amazing
I have used a Vauhan California Framer for 30 years... I tried steel shank hammers and I hated them... but we don't frame like we used to either. I never changed to the titanium because of the expense... but now it would really be a relief on my joints if I were swinging a 14 oz hammer instead of a 23oz, keep my hickory handle, and still get the job done
For any sort of work requiring a framing-sized hammer, I bought the DeWalt mig-welded 14 or 15 oz hammer. That thing pounds nails just as good as the Ti-Bone - maybe even moreso because the DeWalt's handle is slimmer and fits my hand better. The DeWalt mig hammer is a BEAST. It does flex when you use the claw to pull nails laterally and it doesn't have the side puller but it's still only a $40 hammer compared to the $200 Ti-Bone. I'll dig, chop, and demo with that DeWalt all day long.
Dave Biddle I've often wondered if those would be a Stiletto killer. I wouldn't mind getting one, if I didn't have so many hammers already.....
That dewalt is damn good. It feels so wrong for me to like a metal hammer but one cannot deny how good that hammer is. The only downside i see is it falls between a titanium and a steel hammer for durability. I have two 19oz vauhns and the 14oz Dewalt. One Vaughn is about 10yo and nearly smooth, the other is about 5yo and about 60% life left in the milled face, and i used the Dewalt for 2-3mo and it's more worn than my 5yo Vaughn.
I do a lot of framing but mostly always shoot my nails so hammer really becomes to what your willing to carry with you. I have been swinging a estwing ultra 15 for the last year and found it's perfect. Rugged steel but light and short!
For a long time, I've been using a 14oz, steel head, wood handle with fiberglass wrapping. Then I switched to a 32oz, steel head, (DIY) shortened 6-1/2 inch hickory handle with rubber wrapping. I'm contemplating to buy a titanium head, though.
My hammer of choice is Estwing. Although I started swinging a 32oz hammer in my younger years, I’ve intimately reduced to a 22oz for general carpentry. On trim work and small projects, I tend to use my 16oz and 20oz hammers. Today after 40years of working in the construction industry, I am noticing pains, but I don’t think I can contribute that exclusively to swinging a steel shanked hammer! Carrying 4 sheets of plywood at a time, or 20studs at a time, 6 concrete blocks at a time probably did more damage to my body than swinging a hammer! But proper form is unarguably the best. Swing in a way that is natural.
I have used many wood handled hammers over the years, and I still have several. For some reason, I really like my wood handled Sheetrock hammer over my Estwing! It feels faster, more accurate, even though they are the same size and weight!
I was given a Stiletto several years ago by a fellow carpenter, and the feel was great! Light feel, low recoil, and felt very confident in the hand. But the largest issue I’ve noticed, is the handles break very fast! Even when trying to be careful in removing nails, the handle would always seem to break in an out 3-4 months after start of use! The handle was never very hard to replace, but you had to have a handle! I’ve never broke the handle of my Estwing! Even when trying to remove those ring shanked nails in yellow pine! What a bear!
In the end, my viewpoint is use what you like, but always be prepared for a replacement! Wood will break, and when it does, it does so most commonly, suddenly (almost always pulling nails)! Even today, I generally carry 2-3 hammers in my truck.
You're fucking lucky it took 40 years to start noticing pain.
Nice video Rob. I like how in depth you got.
I have a stiletto 14 oz and it’s nice and I really like it...I don’t know that it drives nails better but it’s at a minimum the same... the honest answer is that in a world of nail guns i don’t know anyone that uses a hammer so much that it’s worth worrying about your elbow but any bit of weight I can save on my belt is worth it bc I carry a hammer much more than I use it
The easiest way to explain the difference is that production being the same, you're swinging on average several HUNDREDS of pounds "less" during a typical work day for something like production framing (without guns). Even the typical 3 strike 16D nail sink saves you about a pound per swing. That's almost 3lbs "less" in just those few seconds...now multiply that times a dozen times or a hundred times. It adds up.
I subscribed because of what you said here in this video I enjoyed everything you had to say about the titanium vs steel debate you really nailed it in this video lol
titanium being compared with steel is like comparing tiger with cheetah
Can you do a comparison on which titanium hammer is the best?!!
Did I understand correctly that a lighter weight titanium hammer is not good for pounding in joists or bumping walls over? The heavier steal hammer is better?
Yes - for moving things - heavier is better. I use a sledge for stuff like that
My wife and I both love stilettos when I see a stiletto hammer I can't resist swinging it. And if my wife sees stiletto shoes she has to check them out or try them out. We have an understanding yes there expensive but nothing is as nice. ..
I framed for 20 years, and never had any wrist or elbow pain with an Estwing 22 oz. framer. The only time I had a problem was when I tried some of the axe-handle hammers.
-- From watching a number of hammer vids on RUclips, I think it's my technique. I learned as a kid in sports that a whip-cracking motion is a force multiplier in many kinds of activities, not only in martial arts, but even in rowing (the kind of rowing done in the Olympics) when snapping the oar into the water. To varying degrees, any competent carpenter will get some of this whip-cracking motion at the end of his swing, but I became such a whip-cracking fetishist (no, not in THAT sense) that I maximized it by holding the hammer by the knob at the end and letting the hammer swing on an axis in the palm of my hand. It's a looser grip than most people use, and it took a bit longer to master the control thing, but I don't have to use my wrist nearly as much. That's why the axe-handle hammers made my wrist hurt, because I couldn't use my kind of palm-centered whip-cracking with them. By the way, I used to consistently drive 16-penny nails in 4 blows, and 6-penny nails in 2.
-- The looser grip reduces the vibration that gets transmitted to my hand, wrist, and elbow. There are also advantages in tight-space nailing, because you can swing your arm in whatever direction you CAN swing your arm, and use the whip-cracking motion to change the direction of the force. When nailing overhead into a box in some joists, I would use an upward arm motion, and then let the hammer swing around to a more horizontal blow, and I could get some fairly radical direction-changes. And in other situations, I would move my arm in whatever direction I could, and spin the hammer sideways a bit and combine the spin with whatever whip-cracking i could get into the motion, but the force was somewhat reduced.
-- This technique seems like a further extension of moving from the beginner's using a hammer to push a nail in with a stiffly-held hammer to getting some wrist-swinging into his motion. This is just another step further, moving the swing-axis into the palm of the hand. THe transition can be gradual, holding the hammer closer and closer to the end, while developing the control. It was a slow evolution for me, and I never had trouble with wrist or elbow pain except with the axe-handle hammers that don't permit my technique. It was the blown L-4-5 lumbar disc that messed me up.
grizzlygrizzle that's fascinating info, you might be onto something, did the loose grip you are describing sever cause you to let him go flying out of your hand?
No. I keep my index finger and thumb pretty loose, and hold onto the end of the handle mostly with my middle, ring, and pinky fingers. I went and grabbed a hammer to examine my technique more closely, because I usually do it unselfconsciously, without thinking. It's the ring and pinky fingers that do most of the holding. And I can't remember any occasion of the hammer flying out of my hand.
grizzlygrizzle I just did too - your right on the finger tightness. I do that too
Wait till your doing it for 38 years
I have stoped using my estwing as I was suffering elbow pain so started on a steel head with wooden handle. It’s 2oz lighter than the estwing. Can’t say I’d want to part with the brass for a titanium
There is no debate, every pro framer wants a stiletto for a reason, they have no rival, and once you use a stiletto, you dont go back. Blow through hammers or just buy a stiletto Tbone and be done with it, forever.
Titanium damping is somewhere between aluminum and steel, compared to other materials like wood handles etc they are indistinguishable
I tried a 14oz Titanium for around a year or so I couldn't get used to it. We frame probably 80 percent with guns but typically set trusses, rafters, joists, and things like sheathing by hand as well as most bracing. I just found it much more beneficial to have something that I could sink an 8 toe nail or 16 in 1-2 swings beneficial over sitting and pecking away while your material bounces off your line. For finish work A few years ago I picked up one of the 15oz Estwing ultra smooth face hammers and love the thing. I don't typically love the balance of steel handle hammers but this one feels great to me and the grip is very comfortable and eats a lot of the vibration.
Or0s great feedback thx = using it for a year is great research
Truth be told, due to nail guns hammers are rarely used to drive nails and more handy for wailing at things.
I coming at this from a different angle.
I am a bricklayer so I use a brick hammer to hit, brick, stone or concrete.
As a young man I had a wooden handled Vaughan which got stolen. I replaced it with an Estwing steel handle. I hated it. Finally went back to a wooden handled Vaughan, the difference striking the material is so clear. You guys are hitting nails that move, I am hitting a material that doesn't move.
There is nothing like hickory for taking out that shock that hurts the arm after a while.
Wood definitely have vibration dampening
Great info Rob. I switch back and forth between my titanium and a anti-vibe depending on what I'm doing. Your spot on with your info....or as they say,....you hit the nail on the head......couldn't resist that... thanks again Rob
I've done a lot of research on these hammers and seen a lot of negative reviews as to quality and durability. I will never buy one based on that and especially the price.If you want to go for it. I'm 67 years old and use a steel hammer, no problem. The biggest problem I see is that lots of people don't understand the body mechanics of swinging. a hammer. It's like throwing a baseball. Don't force the swing and use the proper arch. The hammer starts close to the body, then shoulder, elbow, wrist, hand as it moves into the arch away from your body.
I've always wondered if weight isn't an essential component of the hammer.
This is a basic physics situation. You raise a weight, storing potential energy, then lower it & immediately impart all that energy on a nail.
The weight is all that matters given that tool steel does not deform - the mild steel of the nail would.
Titanium works like this - you raise it & it makes your arm and wallet feel lighter.
Good video. I appreciate a pro opinion on general topics as much if not more than tool reviews. Keep up all the great work and thanks for the gear videos so far.
Its something new I'm trying - a serious approach as opposed to the ToolsOnTap which is a light hearted approach
You cannot make a blanket statement that says”titanium transfers more force than steel”. No it doesn’t. Mass x acceleration squared is the way to calculate energy transferred.
Concerned titanium drives the nail more efficiently and that there is less recoil energy to travel back into your arm (3% vs. roughly 30% with steel)
I am huge fan of the stiletto hammers I have a 10oz with the hatchet style hickory handle. I wanna get the 12oz or 14 oz. but I wish they had shorter handles. I'm short so a long handle has a tendency to hit stairs when I walk down them. but all in all I love my stiletto hammer over my steel hammer but I will always keep the estwing around for my back up
I recently coughed up $206 for the Stiletto TBII 15 at a local Amish lumber store and I love it, by far the best hammer I’ve ever used, I used to always use a 28oz steel hammer and liked them ok and will probably still use them for demo or something where I don’t wanna mash up the waffle on my Stiletto banging a crowbar but the Stiletto is definitely my main hammer now, really gonna be a game changer building pole barns
"Ligther metal translates to a lighter swing."
14 oz is 14 oz, steel or titanium...
Previous framer now glazier. I went out of my way to purchase a dalluge 14oz titanium hammer even tho I use a hammer very little now based on my experience in framing. I used to have a 14oz stilleto that I loved but lost the head between changing occupations. Titanium will save ur elbow, I 100% believe it is due to the reduced weight. It is an absolute must if you swing a hammer regularly...
Ive tried alot of hammers and I frame houses full time. Best hammer I have is a 22 oz milled face hickory handle from Milwaukee. Ive tried those titanium ones and i think people just pay so much they gotta find reasons why its better. I can still toss studs and make corections with ease with my hammer. And i dont have to be bruce lee to drive a nail in. Anybody who straightens out crown plates/top plates by toe nailing knows what im talking about here.
Not sure if it performs better than regular hammer but I would buy one just because it sounds cool to have one
I have a Vaughan 19oz steel hammer. I can drive a 16 penny nail in 3-5 swings. Not too heavy, but still has the balls to do what I need it to do.
How u say lighter? A 16 ounce hammer is the same weight regardless of the material
I bought the original stiletto framer. It's labled as "ruger titanium". It was very soft and right from the outset the head chipped around the edges considerably. Some of the pieces hit me in the face.
" ten times less anything " is simply impossible twaddle.
as a young scaffolder hitting steel agains steel and heavy lifting all day ill say this, i was using a 22 oz estwing(no hate on estwing. still love and use the hammer at home) for about two years and the switched to a 14 oz anti vibe stanley fatmax and boy was that a great change in feel. With that said i would assume a titanium would be the same feeling of change.
Frohcious lighter- if you do it get the titanium hammer with the replaceable steel cap for the metal to metal striking longevity
Hickory anytime. Used the Eastwing for years until Husky proved the whole difference. Probably will never change now... and very affordable.
19oz millwaukee framing hammer curved hickory handle has been a life changer for me I used a Vaughan 17oz steel hammer with just a black rubber grip after a few days of heavy framing my hand wanted to kill me till I got the wood handled hammer changed everything for me
Thanks for the info I use titanium
Out(standing) in my field...Putting up and repairing fencing, my nice little Stilletto, in a configuration I can no longer find(go figure) pounds fencing staples without collapsing the curved upper portion, as steel hammers do. Less inertia, methinks. When my staples are not pounded flat, they go straight in because the tines don't spread. Saves half the effort, right there. And a round top staple just snugs up to the barbed wire, un-rolls of field fence or calf panels with no nick places, enhancing longevity. Lastly, no deformation lessens galvanization removal from flaking off, etc. More taps but less effort.
Use guns for driving nails, use hammers for pulling them !!
Finally someone gets it!
If you use a hammer occasionally, steel is fine. If you're using a hammer to drive nails all day long you're a fool who likes to waste time.
Steel hammer makes my pants sag.
Martinez Tools M1 hammer!
I'm interested in thoughts around the difference in the claw design, curved over straight.
I feel the curved would have a better nail pull design as the fulcrum point starts closer to the nail head also getting the head of the nail into the crook oh a straight claw hammer would have a greater level of difficulty.
The straight claw I can only see working better for driving the claw when using it as a demo tool.
Interested in everyone’s thoughts
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I'm a carpenter and prefer the Vaughn 19oz California framers with the blue handle and magnetic nail set. I mainly do concrete form work. One head I've worn smooth, rehandled 3 times, and still use today when I need a smooth face. I can tell you the steel hammer is much more durable lasting 3-4 times longer than titanium. The lighter 14oz titanium and my steel 14oz DeWalt swing much better than the 19oz Vaughn. They swing faster, easier to aim, less stress on the joints, but do require a more full swing. You can choke up on the steel hammer better, beat on steel, concrete, etc better, and move wood better. I think the titanium hammer is good to have if you frame a lot. But the steel is a better all around hammer.
I'm pretty sure all concrete framers would want a steel hammer for the reasons you mention
You'd be surprised. You'll see a few guys working for a week or two with a titanium hammer with one claw (the other being broken off).
Hammers are old school. Use a power nailer or drill driver.
I swing an estwing al-pro and love it, I’ve had it over a year and won’t own anything else definitely not a stiletto wouldn’t own one. Now Martinez m1 and m4 I have tried and liked but always carry the estwing.
The only reason not to go titanium is cost, but still they are worth the extra money. The same goes for the titanium cats paw that stiletto makes. I borrowed a friends on the job site for a quick task and said, “Aw man you just cost me a hundred bucks.”
You didn't cover the durability factor in steel vs. Titanium. For the price point, a Titanium framing hammer with waffling will loose against a steel hammer in durability and longevity of the waffling. Enter, the HARDCORE "The Original". Hickory handle with properly aligned wood grain for longevity, an A7 Tool Steel Waffling insert into the forged steel (19oz.) head gives far superior performance, durability and longevity of any hammer I've ever owned, and I've been in construction since the mid 1980's. Give them a try and share your thoughts. I know this was more of a comfort/safety driven video, but there are many more aspects to consider here. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks for the explanation.
Titanium hammers came out the same year as the Ti golf club craze. It was a piggy back move, not engineering based. Golf clubs need the same swing energy, or the ball is not going 250-300 yards, or more. The solution there was to retain the same head weight, while ballooning head size for a large sweet spot.
With hammers, people don't want a huge head, so they stuck with the same size, and reduced weight by 1/3rd. To get the same impact energy you need to increase speed by 25%, and the question is, is that a lot? In golf it is huge, it is the difference between a scratch golfer, and a pro, and a pro, and the PGA tour leading distance driver. But as mentioned, they don't have the lighter head. It is still an unrealistic speed increase for most. We all have comfortable speeds at which we move, and speeding up while maintaining accuracy is not as easy as it sounds. If 14-16 ounce hammers were such a bonus, we never would have invented the framing hammer in the first place. We had up to that point being hitting nails with light hammers. It just took more blows.
The health and welfare claims also mirror BS claims that were made in golf, there is no evidence they are true.
Where Ti hammers excel is in a world where, most nails are driven by guns. And most hammers are carried, not swung. The larger framing hammer format is valuable, and if you can have it at a lower weight than the earlier favorite 16 ounce hammers, what is not to like? Driving most of your nails with a gun, and tapping the odd proud one with a Ti hammer is a good retirement plan. But for sinking 16d nails all day long with a single swat, the steel hammer still reigns supreme.
Couldn't agree more! Keep it up brother!
Titanium isn't as hard as hardened carbon steel.
My Vaughan 20oz fiberglass handle and steel head will always be my go to hammer. Tried going Stiletto, didnt work out for me.
14oz stiletto is different. I’m back and forth with the 19oz Vaughn. the only difference is what I’m doing. Will the work hurt my expensive hammer is the how I chose... The stiletto you need to almost break in it seemed.
There may be some difference between steel handled and titanium handled hammer. But there should be no difference for wooden handle hammers. It's just a rigid weight at the end of the wood!
As a "young un" it was always estwing for me it's what my dad used when I was growing up was my first swing of a hammer when I was old enough to do it right and my first hammer I brought well its 20 years since I started swinging a hammer regularly in that time I've put in tens of thousands of nails in one 3 year period I put in 36 25kg boxes of 100x4.5mm nails and 6 boxes of 150x6mm nails all with an estwing big blue. My elbow aches now at night if I use that estwing (still my all time favourite hammer)
Last summer I brought a milled and smooth Vaughn Californian farmer with hickory handles and steel heads over night my aching elbow was gone.
If we have lots of stud framing to do the gun does it all although that makes my elbow ache during prolonged use. I think handles have more to do with vibration than head material.
I have a 24 oz steel estwing with the blue nylon grip and a waffle face.
I’m a heat guy so I don’t drive many nails, but when I do I want them in quick.
I use it around the house also. I’m also looking into a 16 oz smooth faced version of it
The leather bound 20 is the king! It is shorter that the blue nylon Estwing 20, I have both.
Great video on comparison of the hammers
I have a 10 ounce titanium hammer of my own
Ppl think I’m crazy for spending $ 110 for a hammer,but as in your video at the end of the day you’re not worn down to the nump by the weight of steel!!!!!🤨
there are new technologies in steel hammers that account for the the weight such as the Dewalt high velocity which weighs in at 14 OZ but strikes with the same amount of force as a standard 28 OZ Hammer. the grip on this hammer is very ergonomic and has little vibration.
agreed
Everything in this video is so right hes done his research
ok, but i don't understand why people are still swinging hammers so much that they are hurting themselves when nail guns are so cheap these days. yea, you can't use nail guns for demo, but you can sure use orbital sawzalls for a lot of it. for a real pro working full days and full weeks, anything that helps protect the body is a good idea, including titanium hammers when nothing else will do...
i did look for Tit.hammer here but 399€ was not happy sight when found one... So got a Frenche "Leborgne Nanovibe" oh my used to have an 16oz... leborgne is ~40oz 1Kg.. You so feel the diffrent and the wight helps to drive down nails. so less swings. and its a multitool also with a little hook under the head that fits a 2x4.. wich meens less tools to carry with you
Use whatever you like, most real carpenters are using nail guns today and only need an actual hammer once in a while.
Titanium seems overrated. What's the difference between a steel 16 Oz and Titanium 16 Oz both with hickory handles? That would be interesting to know. Even the father of the Titanium hammer went back to a steel head. The Martinez M1 is a steel head on a Titanium handle. Given the same head weight; what would be the difference between steel, titanium, and hickory handles? It's a given that steel and titanium would be more durable but as far as vibration damping; would hickory win?
To reduce vibration in a steel hammer, I wrap baseball bat shock reducing grip tape. Lizard skin is one brand - there are many. Waaaaayyyyyy cheaper than titanium and zero vibration back to the arm on the bigger hammers.
A ferrari is faster than a kia, but if you can't drive for shit...whats the difference? Start with not dropping your saw after a cut, so ya don't end up with a crooked fence/cuts, try not to stand on the cord when you are gonna make a cut... I don't know why I preach move on to the next comment, nothin to see here
I was on the fence till this video...thanks.
WOW thanks
The "knockdown power" of steel hammers you referred to isn't a moot point to me. Titanium hammers nail great - no argument. But when you are trying to knock a stud out or hammer a header into place, my 20oz estwing hits harder than the mini-14. The full-size ti-bone will outmuscle the 20oz but it's only because of the length, not the titanium. And since no one with a $200 hammer is going to be handnailing any bulk amount of nails, I think the steel hammer is the overall winner. Granted, I LOVED my Mini-14 when I had it. I sold all three of my titanium hammers just because I couldn't work any job without bringing along a steel hammer anyway for demo, chopping, etc.
Dave good points - thanks for sharing
Love the channel by the way. I had a lazy afternoon yesterday - did nothing except watch your tool reviews.