@@williambrown319 At this time, prototypes are not for sale, especially since the procedures for the OMC will not be complete until December. I think it will be feasible to release them in the future. When available, communications will be made public.
A good surface to "grind" on (because that tin does bend and you end up cupping your parts) would be to take a piece of MDF, carve a perimeter channel for water to gather in, then dip that MDF slab in wood lacquer, letting it suck up the boat lacquer in successive dips until it doesn't and it starts building up. 4 dips should do it, with light sanding between layers (the only surface that needs to be flat and clean is the one where the glass later glues on). For the surface where the sandpaper will sit, you need to have a piece of glass glued on top with its edges blunted. Sanding the "podium" where the piece of glass sits can be achieved with the glass itself as a backing for sand paper. Once this is complete, CA glue is sufficient to keep the glass in place. It's robust, the MDF won't bend in time, it's sealed against the water and the glass is protected by this, giving you a reasonably flat surface to sand on. If you want to take this ONE step above, you make two identical pieces, buy some diamond glass grinding paste and place it evenly spread on the glass, then use the other to rub the two glass surfaces until all the glass surface on both pieces is frosted. This will give you nearly perfect flatness on part with some mid grade machinist surfaces. The only expensive part of this would be the diamond paste (but some places offer samples, if you ask them, which should be more than enough if you're frugal with the application) all the other parts are cheap, easily found items. I'd recommend a piece of MDF that's at least 1 cm thick. You can layer multiple (thinner) pieces of MDF by gluing them with wood glue. If you go that route, make it at least 2 cm thick. And if you do go that route, you can carve out a pocket in one of the center segments and put either lead shot or lead weights which you can (in most cases) obtain for free from any wheel alignment shop. You just got there and tell them you want to lest a base down and they'll likely give you, if not for free at least for cheaper than buying ingots. The base being heavy helps a ton with sanding stuff. This is worthwhile doing, as it's a lifetime object. I've made mine... 23~24 years ago and i'm still using them even tho i now have A grade machinist surfaces. So it's really a good DIY tool.
Will you be integrating some kind of actuators outside the framework? If so, I cannot wait to see how the complex actuation of the ankle is handled. I know you have sworn off further FDM printed parts for this project, but I encourage you to look to @BreakingTaps video on rolling contact joints for possible future project inspiration. Heck, giving Project ECHO a cable-based actuation system would definitely look original compared to other entries that I've seen from previous years.
@@bearnaff9387 I’m definitely putting pistons and such into the design. I’m still finding the best ways to incorporate them around joints but I’m happy with what I’ve come up with. I love the rolling contact joints, definitely something I’ve considered. Maybe the next mech! I’ll think of a way to make it work with trash and my design style. Thanks for the input!
After "Carson Isaiah Shen" AKA Carcinization, of Aegis Mechatronics, I spent way to long trying to find the pun with our newest speaker. And even now I'm not sure if there isn't one, or if I'm still missing it XD
@@ChakatStormCloud haha Mercer is an old name referring to a merchant, and Rylan is an independent business owner who sells machined parts and related services 🤓
@@tonchito1449 Thanks! Do you mean the yellow mech at 1:28? It’s a nameless Chinese kit I got online that disappeared, I’m sure there’s some name for it but I haven’t found more.
@@даниилпрохоров-о4е thank you! In general I would have gone with ball socket joints but bolts are very strong and practical. Maybe I’ll rebuild them for more mobility somehow…
@@proto.roborovski I agree , ball joints are pretty weak . I think you ou can use joints like hip joints on modern gunpla , shaft in body connected to hinge and another shaft in arm (sorry I'm quite bad with English) or just use special Lego reinforced socket detail , I used them when built Mecha garage kit and two of them were strong enough to hold almost one kilo of weight
@@даниилпрохоров-о4е your English is fine friend, I understand the connections you’re talking about. I’ve never made one from scratch and I like to trade off simplicity for mobility. But still I can think on a way to do this with my resources!
Awesome work! Craftsmanship and narration are amazing as usual. Truly inspiring!
@@Gabinary_ thank you! 😁
Good ideas!
@@leflstopmotion thanks! 😁
Really awesome concept and execution of this build and video!!!!
Love it!
❤😊❤
@@cerisekappes580 thank you! 😊
@@proto.roborovski you are welcome 🤗
Investor would like to know how to collect the prototype after competition.
@@williambrown319 At this time, prototypes are not for sale, especially since the procedures for the OMC will not be complete until December. I think it will be feasible to release them in the future. When available, communications will be made public.
Fun build, I subbed and can't wait to go through the rest of your videos!
@@chasonlapointe thank you!
Some great choices in this build! It looks like we both use the same sort of digital calipers for small parts as well.
@@krzysztofmathews738 thanks! And yes, they’re super helpful! I actually burn through a lot of batteries 😂
A good surface to "grind" on (because that tin does bend and you end up cupping your parts) would be to take a piece of MDF, carve a perimeter channel for water to gather in, then dip that MDF slab in wood lacquer, letting it suck up the boat lacquer in successive dips until it doesn't and it starts building up. 4 dips should do it, with light sanding between layers (the only surface that needs to be flat and clean is the one where the glass later glues on).
For the surface where the sandpaper will sit, you need to have a piece of glass glued on top with its edges blunted. Sanding the "podium" where the piece of glass sits can be achieved with the glass itself as a backing for sand paper. Once this is complete, CA glue is sufficient to keep the glass in place. It's robust, the MDF won't bend in time, it's sealed against the water and the glass is protected by this, giving you a reasonably flat surface to sand on.
If you want to take this ONE step above, you make two identical pieces, buy some diamond glass grinding paste and place it evenly spread on the glass, then use the other to rub the two glass surfaces until all the glass surface on both pieces is frosted. This will give you nearly perfect flatness on part with some mid grade machinist surfaces.
The only expensive part of this would be the diamond paste (but some places offer samples, if you ask them, which should be more than enough if you're frugal with the application) all the other parts are cheap, easily found items. I'd recommend a piece of MDF that's at least 1 cm thick. You can layer multiple (thinner) pieces of MDF by gluing them with wood glue.
If you go that route, make it at least 2 cm thick. And if you do go that route, you can carve out a pocket in one of the center segments and put either lead shot or lead weights which you can (in most cases) obtain for free from any wheel alignment shop. You just got there and tell them you want to lest a base down and they'll likely give you, if not for free at least for cheaper than buying ingots. The base being heavy helps a ton with sanding stuff.
This is worthwhile doing, as it's a lifetime object. I've made mine... 23~24 years ago and i'm still using them even tho i now have A grade machinist surfaces. So it's really a good DIY tool.
@@aserta great advice, I’ll have to look around at my glass collection and see what I can come up with. Thanks!
Will you be integrating some kind of actuators outside the framework? If so, I cannot wait to see how the complex actuation of the ankle is handled. I know you have sworn off further FDM printed parts for this project, but I encourage you to look to @BreakingTaps video on rolling contact joints for possible future project inspiration. Heck, giving Project ECHO a cable-based actuation system would definitely look original compared to other entries that I've seen from previous years.
@@bearnaff9387 I’m definitely putting pistons and such into the design. I’m still finding the best ways to incorporate them around joints but I’m happy with what I’ve come up with. I love the rolling contact joints, definitely something I’ve considered. Maybe the next mech! I’ll think of a way to make it work with trash and my design style. Thanks for the input!
After "Carson Isaiah Shen" AKA Carcinization, of Aegis Mechatronics, I spent way to long trying to find the pun with our newest speaker.
And even now I'm not sure if there isn't one, or if I'm still missing it XD
@@ChakatStormCloud haha Mercer is an old name referring to a merchant, and Rylan is an independent business owner who sells machined parts and related services 🤓
i like the content a lot. what was the yellow mech in the beginning?
@@tonchito1449 Thanks! Do you mean the yellow mech at 1:28? It’s a nameless Chinese kit I got online that disappeared, I’m sure there’s some name for it but I haven’t found more.
Wow , nice build , I am your new subscriber !
But I think that this machine needs more flexible shoulders for better operating
@@даниилпрохоров-о4е thank you! In general I would have gone with ball socket joints but bolts are very strong and practical. Maybe I’ll rebuild them for more mobility somehow…
@@proto.roborovski I agree , ball joints are pretty weak . I think you ou can use joints like hip joints on modern gunpla , shaft in body connected to hinge and another shaft in arm (sorry I'm quite bad with English) or just use special Lego reinforced socket detail , I used them when built Mecha garage kit and two of them were strong enough to hold almost one kilo of weight
@@даниилпрохоров-о4е your English is fine friend, I understand the connections you’re talking about. I’ve never made one from scratch and I like to trade off simplicity for mobility. But still I can think on a way to do this with my resources!
7:29 lmao
@@jacksongraydon2503 😁